questions you thought were too dumb to ask

[fusion28]

Why is an EVAP Purge Valve $102 for my B6 3.0 when I've seen other get it for $15-$65? Should I feel the ticking during cold start ups or do I only hear it the first few seconds?

[gmudan]

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/MISC/Tick-tick-BOOM-lost-girl.gif

LMAO! Very funny....

[HayWood]

Does anyone know where to buy this cover? (the black cover on the drivers side, covering the washer fluid tank), and what it's called?

will it fit with the 1.8T engine? Or is there a different type we can use?


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3240/2617144656_5a42f400fd_b.jpg

Direct link please (A)

[chad99]

Does that little round hole do anything? I wish I could program it into a shift light haha.


Should be ambient light sensor, adjusts your instrument cluster lights depending on how bright your interior is

[a4darkness]

^^ now that I did not know, very cool

[jubei4769]

Does anyone know where to buy this cover? (the black cover on the drivers side, covering the washer fluid tank), and what it's called?

will it fit with the 1.8T engine? Or is there a different type we can use?


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3240/2617144656_5a42f400fd_b.jpg


Direct link please (A)

u can get it from ECS and i think its under a B7 chasis

[gmudan]

u can get it from ECS and i think its under a B7 chasis

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Covers/ES436119/

[waldo1324]

My b6 seat sliders are coin eaters! lol i found 2$ in change the other day all quarters im assuming from washing my car.
They all end up in the middle of the slider which stops me from moving back very much....

before i sole her i found $4.97, a canadian midget, and Frodos map to Mordor

[jubei4769]

Does anyone know where to buy this cover? (the black cover on the drivers side, covering the washer fluid tank), and what it's called?

will it fit with the 1.8T engine? Or is there a different type we can use?


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3240/2617144656_5a42f400fd_b.jpg



Direct link please (A)

theres one for sale in the classifieds right now, http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=87029&title=s4-driver-side-engine-cover&cat=21

[TravisSavoie]

before i sole her i found $4.97, a canadian midget, and Frodos map to Mordor

FML so jealous i want frodos map to mordor -.-

[CHARLES A4]

My radios in safe mode and I have the code but I just don't know how to enter the code into the radio

[old guy]

Press the AS and RDS buttons at the same time and hold until ther screen says 1000. Enter the 4 digit code by pressing the preset buttons. Push the buttons once for 1, twice for 2, etc. After entering the code press the AS and RDS again to set.

Edit: Just found my old link. Clicky click (http://www.ibiblio.org/tkan/audi/radios/symphony2.html)

[thinkones]

was planning changing my license plate bulbs to led's but one of the screws is stripped any suggestions on what to do?

[victimdumper]

was planning changing my license plate bulbs to led's but one of the screws is stripped any suggestions on what to do?

there's an old thread on this somewhere around here.. but basically get it out anyway you can (its a complete bitch and a half)
once you get it out, just go get whole new housings + screws from the dealer, they come in a pack i think
i actually don't think they're very expensive (don't quote me on that though)

[HayWood]

u can get it from ECS and i think its under a B7 chasis

Thanks!

Do u happen to know where to get the right side compartment cover aswell? ECS Tuning did not have that.. :/ And it looks like the covers are powder paintet with small silver spots?

Here's a pic :)

http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u662/JusticeA4/EngineCovers_zpsd3305add.jpg

[smtroupe]

Here is a pretty basic one i'm sure there is a easy answer for. I been looking at motoza for a ecu upgrade, but say i had a friend who already bought it. Could he plug it into my car and bump my ecu to for free? also do kits like motoza help with gas mileage or just horse power?

[Peacob]

Here is a pretty basic one i'm sure there is a easy answer for. I been looking at motoza for a ecu upgrade, but say i had a friend who already bought it. Could he plug it into my car and bump my ecu to for free? also do kits like motoza help with gas mileage or just horse power?

No to the first part, yes somewhat to the second part.

[smtroupe]

K so one kit per one car? Thanks for the info

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[S14Tan]

Cant seem to find this in black...

Does it even exist?!?

http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/veedubeu/For%20Sale/IMG_3971_zps0f46af6d.jpg

[victimdumper]

^not on a4's
some s4's had a black headliner and all the assorted gadgets up there.

[FormulaOne]

I want to upgrade my suspensions at some point. After reading couple threads I don't understand why most of the people recommend coilovers here even if the person doesn't want to go low as most of you (which is very low IMO). Why not simply go with good springs and shocks (eg:HR and Bilst.) and have a reasonnable riding height?

[EURO_DOLL]

I want to upgrade my suspensions at some point. After reading couple threads I don't understand why most of the people recommend coilovers here even if the person doesn't want to go low as most of you (which is very low IMO). Why not simply go with good springs and shocks (eg:HR and Bilst.) and have a reasonnable riding height?

Honestly, I just installed my ST coilovers about a month ago or so, and I have nothing but good to say about them. For ~$700, I got my coils brand new. After doing a bit of research about springs and shocks vs. coilovers, the price is basically the same.

You don't HAVE TO slam your car on coilovers. That's the beauty about them - they're adjustable. I originally bought springs, but I then decided to sell them and save up for coils - best decision of my life.

For the amount of money you'd be spending on spring/ shock combo, you could invest in some coilovers where you can ADJUST the height to where you want. And again, my ST's are amazing. A million times more comfortable than my OEM sport suspension. But that's just my $0.02 [up]

[FormulaOne]

Honestly, I just installed my ST coilovers about a month ago or so, and I have nothing but good to say about them. For ~$700, I got my coils brand new. After doing a bit of research about springs and shocks vs. coilovers, the price is basically the same.

You don't HAVE TO slam your car on coilovers. That's the beauty about them - they're adjustable. I originally bought springs, but I then decided to sell them and save up for coils - best decision of my life.

For the amount of money you'd be spending on spring/ shock combo, you could invest in some coilovers where you can ADJUST the height to where you want. And again, my ST's are amazing. A million times more comfortable than my OEM sport suspension. But that's just my $0.02 [up]

Even if I don't want to adjust? I've read posts such as "why not get the best of the two worlds" (in reference to shocks with springs) - do you think this statement makes sens? I'm still confused because I don't need to adjust. The car seems already VERY low to me with stock 4x4 and with winter here it's overkill to do this.

[EURO_DOLL]

Even if I don't want to adjust? I've read posts such as "why not get the best of the two worlds" (in reference to shocks with springs) - do you think this statement makes sens? I'm still confused because I don't need to adjust. The car seems already VERY low to me with stock 4x4 and with winter here it's overkill to do this.

You don't necessarily have to continue adjusting your coilovers. There are people that install them and leave them at that height. With springs, they lower you to a certain height and that's it. It seems like you really don't wanna lower your car at all - which may be an issue if the springs bring you down a certain height and you can't raise or lower them. I'm sure other people can chime in with their $0.02 on the comfort of springs/ shocks.

The winter in NY is absolutely horrific too, and I'm slightly tucking my wheels with my coilovers. Not to mention I have a FWD Audi. The low hasn't been a problem if that's what you're worried about.

Even if I didn't wanna lower my car, the ride from my ST's is amazing. I would drop the money on them again in a heartbeat.

What is it that you're exactly wanting? If you think your 4x4 stock ride height is already too low, are you just looking for comfort and not a cosmetic difference?

[sa_seahawker]

I want to upgrade my suspensions at some point. After reading couple threads I don't understand why most of the people recommend coilovers here even if the person doesn't want to go low as most of you (which is very low IMO). Why not simply go with good springs and shocks (eg:HR and Bilst.) and have a reasonnable riding height?

Some springs can give the car a reverse rake. I haven't seen anyone who likes that (why spring companies don't fix this issue with their springs is beyond me). Coil overs give you the ultimate in ride height adjustability allowing owners to remove this rake. However, if you do the research and look for springs that have a greater front drop than the rear you should be fine. Also, don't keep any heavy items in the trunk during the settle in period. H&R sports are good set IMO. Mine came out perfect.

[FormulaOne]

You don't necessarily have to continue adjusting your coilovers. There are people that install them and leave them at that height. With springs, they lower you to a certain height and that's it. It seems like you really don't wanna lower your car at all - which may be an issue if the springs bring you down a certain height and you can't raise or lower them. I'm sure other people can chime in with their $0.02 on the comfort of springs/ shocks.

The winter in NY is absolutely horrific too, and I'm slightly tucking my wheels with my coilovers. Not to mention I have a FWD Audi. The low hasn't been a problem if that's what you're worried about.

Even if I didn't wanna lower my car, the ride from my ST's is amazing. I would drop the money on them again in a heartbeat.

What is it that you're exactly wanting? If you think your 4x4 stock ride height is already too low, are you just looking for comfort and not a cosmetic difference?

Yes, I do want to lower my car. Why? Because I will eventually be getting 18" or 19" rims, so lowering it is a must since the car will be even higher with stock 4x4 (which is ridiculous). I don't need a jeep ;).

I'm looking for a lower center of gravity first of all + improved handling. I would like to change it along with the febi control arms kit I bought to really feel a difference.Cosmetic looks are not that important for me but I would like the car to be a little lower. What are your thoughts about it? Should I stick to my first idea (shocks + springs) or go for coilovers?

[jubei4769]

Yes, I do want to lower my car. Why? Because I will eventually be getting 18" or 19" rims, so lowering it is a must since the car will be even higher with stock 4x4 (which is ridiculous). I don't need a jeep ;).

I'm looking for a lower center of gravity first of all + improved handling. I would like to change it along with the febi control arms kit I bought to really feel a difference.Cosmetic looks are not that important for me but I would like the car to be a little lower. What are your thoughts about it? Should I stick to my first idea (shocks + springs) or go for coilovers?

so just find a set of sport springs and shocks and some b5 front caps. oem low

[sa_seahawker]

so just find a set of sport springs and shocks and some b5 front caps. oem low

^^^Hey, I was born in Oak Harbor! Small world. Been trying to move back there for about 15 years now.

(If wasn't the military not sending me there, school, or my crazy-ass ex-wife, I would have been inbound on the first ferry available! LoL).

[jubei4769]

^^^Hey, I was born in Oak Harbor! Small world. Been trying to move back there for about 15 years now.

(If wasn't the military not sending me there, school, or my crazy-ass ex-wife, I would have been inbound on the first ferry available! LoL).

i tried to avoid this place like the plague actually, but the military said other wise.

[Collinscj]

I don't know what shocks to get for my 02 a4 avant with sport suspension
So looking these are what I found
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0077&ppt=C0035
and then all of these.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...in&No=0&Npp=10

I don't really have clue on which would be best bang for my buck but I would assume the B4 Bilstein.
Any help?

[S14Tan]

^not on a4's
some s4's had a black headliner and all the assorted gadgets up there.

So what you're saying is that I have to find one out of an S4?

Would that even work on a A4 since we don't have these, "other gadgets"?

[Peacob]

So what you're saying is that I have to find one out of an S4?

Would that even work on a A4 since we don't have these, "other gadgets"?

You need to get one out of a S4 or Ti edition b7. There is no different "gadgets" on the overhead unit you are referring to. I'm not sure what victimdumper is talking about, Its a straight swap.

[victimdumper]

^yup, just meant the headliner + the oh shit handles + the sunroof controls are all black

[S14Tan]

You need to get one out of a S4 or Ti edition b7. There is no different "gadgets" on the overhead unit you are referring to. I'm not sure what victimdumper is talking about, Its a straight swap.


^yup, just meant the headliner + the oh shit handles + the sunroof controls are all black



Sweet, Now I just gotta find the part numbers for all the pieces I need Domelight, oh shit handle ect. It was driving me crazy, (in the process of a black suede headliner wrap)


Thanks alot guys!

[S14Tan]

Another Question, b5.5 5 Speed shift boot, are they the same as the B6 boots?

[victimdumper]

^ don't think so.

i guess its possible the actual size of the pattern may be the same but the way they connect to the shift surround / actual stick shift is different.
IIRC b5's attach to a ring that slides over the shift stick, and b6's are all kinda one piece clamped on. (I've actually yet to dig into my b6's shift linkage yet)

[Led]

Does my B6 with stock exhaust sound different accelerating in 'S' mode compared to 'D' or do I imagine it does?

[MNAudi101]

its probably just because it revs higher and faster so it seems like it makes a different sound

[Joey0918]

Does my B6 with stock exhaust sound different accelerating in 'S' mode compared to 'D' or do I imagine it does?

It's questions like this that make me love this thread. No Flamesuit Necessary!

[Led]

It's questions like this that make me love this thread. No Flamesuit Necessary!

I thought the "S" stands for "Soundzenlouder"?

[customa4]

I thought the "S" stands for "Soundzenlouder"?

It does

[audi_nightrider]

my car is making that same noise as it used to make when there was a leak between my turbo and manifold. checked it a while ago(I know I didnt check properly) but it seems like the metal gasket is still good by seeing one of the corners and not being able to pull it out. I'm using two studs and one bolt for the inside to attach my frankenturbo but it still gets loose for some reason even with high heat lockthread. I re-tightened everything without replacing the gasket and the noise is still there.

My exhaust do smells bad like gas. Should I go ahead and change that gasket??? or am I looking at another problem....the turbo fins are fine, no bent or anything at all. Boosting good so I highly doubt it's my turbo. any help????? sorry English is my second language!

[customa4]

^^I'm pretty sure whenever you replace parts like a turbo you're supposed to use new gaskets. I would definitely get back in there and change that gasket. Are you confident that the cat is working properly or are you running a test pipe?

[customa4]

I remember reading a thread not too long ago about brakes and what it takes to improve your braking. I'm aware that the Tyrol Brake Stiffener and stainless steel lines will help the B6 S4 brakes. I remember reading in that thread someone saying something about swapping the S4 master cylinder or brake booster from the S4 to get the full braking ability of S4 brakes. I want to know what will maximize the performance of the S4 calipers.

[OMG_SHARK]

Yes, I do want to lower my car. Why? Because I will eventually be getting 18" or 19" rims, so lowering it is a must since the car will be even higher with stock 4x4 (which is ridiculous). I don't need a jeep ;).

I'm looking for a lower center of gravity first of all + improved handling. I would like to change it along with the febi control arms kit I bought to really feel a difference.Cosmetic looks are not that important for me but I would like the car to be a little lower. What are your thoughts about it? Should I stick to my first idea (shocks + springs) or go for coilovers?

Personally, just go with coilovers. If you decide to go with a spring & shock setup and don't want a rough riding car you would have to go with Koni Yellows which aren't cheap. When I was looking into lowering my car, ride quality was a top priority along side handling and my mechanic quoted me $880.00 for eibach springs and Koni yellows excluding labor. Long story short, I decided to go with just the springs and I regret that decision every time I look at my car. I should have just gone with ST coilovers. Another reason why I would recommend coilovers instead of spring/shocks combo is you CAN adjust it during installation to the ride height you want. And also during winter you can raise it if your worried about driving it when it snows.

[FormulaOne]

Thanks for the replies. I have a couple other questions now. Might sound stupid to some of you but that's why I'm here.

I might have found a great deal on ST coilovers. The person says they are new, but not in the box. Never intalled appartently. If I go check them, how can I know that they were never used or installed? Is there anything in particular I should notice? If you have bought ST coilovers you probably know how they come/look new, so please share with me.

Also, since I already have the febi/bilstein control arm kit, would it make the job a lot easier to install coilovers and arms at the same time? Or there's no "huge" difference? Would it make more sens for me to buy the coilovers and install them with the control arm kit or I can put it later on (in 3-4 months) and it won't be very dramatic money wise.

[customa4]

If you're going to be doing the work then the price is gonna be the same either way. I would say it's a lot easier to do while you have your suspension apart. I think the best way to tell if the coils were mounted is to look at all the mounting points. There will be marks on the bottom of the strut where the strut connects to the knuckle. You should be able to notice marks around that area.

[OMG_SHARK]

I think the best way to tell if the coils were mounted is to look at all the mounting points. There will be marks on the bottom of the strut where the strut connects to the knuckle. You should be able to notice marks around that area.
X2. Check the rear springs, if there are markings from the spring compressor pins then he/she at least attempted to install it. If you plan on installing and changing the control arms in one day I would recommend an impact gun to expedite the process. If you don't have one and if you don't need to change the control arms asap, I would just postpone it.

[jubei4769]

Im doing a wheel stud conversion and im looking for aftermarket ball seat lug nuts and cant find any, all ive found is conical lug nuts that wont work with my wheels. anyone have any ideas and yes ive searched quite a few places, just seems any aftermarket lugnut is conical

[victimdumper]

^ just get the set on ringer racing, you can choose call / conical / both

[audi_nightrider]

Thanks!

Do u happen to know where to get the right side compartment cover aswell? ECS Tuning did not have that.. :/ And it looks like the covers are powder paintet with small silver spots?



it comes from 3.0/3.2 engines

jacked from the engine bay pics
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2058074/Photo%20Dec%2021%2C%209%2029%2001%20PM.jpg

[FormulaOne]

X2. Check the rear springs, if there are markings from the spring compressor pins then he/she at least attempted to install it. If you plan on installing and changing the control arms in one day I would recommend an impact gun to expedite the process. If you don't have one and if you don't need to change the control arms asap, I would just postpone it.

I only need to change to change the LEFT.FRONT.LOWER.REAR one(ASAP). It's loose. Is it risky to keep driving?

[OMG_SHARK]

I only need to change to change the LEFT.FRONT.LOWER.REAR one(ASAP). It's loose. Is it risky to keep driving?

I did my upper control arms about two weeks ago and I asked ECS tuning whether to change both the driver and passenger side even though only the driver side ball joint was worn out. They recommend to do both side but I just did the driver side and have the passenger side control arms in my trunk in case I need to swap it out while I am on the road. To my understanding a control arm allows wheel motion in the up and down direction when driving over bumps while keeping the wheels perpendicular/straight to the road. If it loose DON'T drive it as your wheels might turn into the fender (like making a right turn in your case) when you hit a bump with out you turning the wheels, causing you to have a massive accident if your going 60 mph.

[FormulaOne]

If it loose DON'T drive it as your wheels might turn into the fender (like making a right turn in your case) when you hit a bump with out you turning the wheels, causing you to have a massive accident if your going 60 mph.

Ok thanks. Because I was feeling a little too comfortable right now driving with a loose C.A. I was planning driving till end of the month at least like this but I will definitely change them ASAP then if it's so risky. I actually feel bad to have driven with other people in my car.

[FormulaOne]

Back with a couple more stupid qs. I need new brakes since mine are finished. I was thinking of ugrading to S4B5 calipers.
Does this mean I need S4B5 rotors? or I can only use the A4B6 rotors?
Is it correct that S4B5 calipers need 4 pads on each caliper but they are smaller than A4B6 pads?
Is there anything else I need besides the calipers? Dust shields? What else?
Should I get SS lines too while I'm at it?
Are they going to fit under my stock 17 inch audi wheels?

Or should I just keep the stock ones and forget all this hassle with brakes..
I know I will have to spend at least 300$ for rotors and pads here, maybe it would make sens to buy better stuff to upgrade?

Thanks. This is really for my general knowledge.

[OMG_SHARK]

Back with a couple more stupid qs. I need new brakes since mine are finished. I was thinking of ugrading to S4B5 calipers.
Does this mean I need S4B5 rotors? or I can only use the A4B6 rotors?
Is it correct that S4B5 calipers need 4 pads on each caliper but they are smaller than A4B6 pads?
Is there anything else I need besides the calipers? Dust shields? What else?
Should I get SS lines too while I'm at it?
Are they going to fit under my stock 17 inch audi wheels?

Or should I just keep the stock ones and forget all this hassle with brakes..
I know I will have to spend at least 300$ for rotors and pads here, maybe it would make sens to buy better stuff to upgrade?

Thanks. This is really for my general knowledge.

Go for a B7 s4 brakes its much more superior and if I am not mistaken it should just be an easy swap. And they will fit your 17" wheels

[FormulaOne]

Go for a B7 s4 brakes its much more superior and if I am not mistaken it should just be an easy swap. And they will fit your 17" wheels

And much more expensive too!

[OMG_SHARK]

And much more expensive too!

Then just get an aftermarket drilled/slotted rotor and caliper from ECS Tuning for around $400

[FormulaOne]

Then just get an aftermarket drilled/slotted rotor and caliper from ECS Tuning for around $400
How does that make 400$. Calipers for a4 3.0 are 319 each. S4s are even higher. I think I have to look for something used.
update:
never mind thx for the help

[OMG_SHARK]

My bad I just looked up the rotor for a 1.8t and just assumed the calipers were going to be the same price. Did you change ur control arm??

[FormulaOne]

My bad I just looked up the rotor for a 1.8t and just assumed the calipers were going to be the same price. Did you change ur control arm??

Well, OEM calipers S4B7 = 300$ + Service kit (300 or 400 dont remember) (pads and ECS rotors) = aroud 960$ for the front with shipping. Still worth it compared to other stuff unless I can buy a brake kit for 1200$ but I didn't see one under 1800$ yet.

No I didn't change them yet. I'm not driving the car though. Its parked for now.

[customa4]

B6 S4 calipers and pads in the classifieds for $325 shipped. All you would need is rotors to bolt on.
http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=87914&title=b6-s42c-b6-26amp-3bb7-a4-brake-calipers-and-front-hubs&cat=50

[FormulaOne]

B6 S4 calipers and pads in the classifieds for $325 shipped. All you would need is rotors to bolt on.
http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=87914&title=b6-s42c-b6-26amp-3bb7-a4-brake-calipers-and-front-hubs&cat=50

lol add 40$ for canada = 360$ then add paypal fee 3% + rattle spring 11$ = 400$. Would pretty much be same thing to buy new OEM for 300-350 both + shipping.

Thanks for the hint though.

[MNAudi101]

Does any know if there is a place to get the rings that are found on the engine cover or will I have to buy a new cover? I found some B5 1.8T that have the rings but they dont look the same, they are all flat and not raised like the B6's. There are some A6s that look to have the raised rings but I am not sure if they would fit. Any help would be greatful

[nazisled]

Engine speed sensor - is it pretty much impossible to get to? I read it was a 25 minute job. I was at it for 2 hours before I flipped my car over.

I tried forever, looking at write ups from A4mods. Even with all the extensions and swivel on, I cannot even get close to the bolt holding the sensor. I'm going in blind.

Would it make more sense to remove oil filter? Am I missing something? I couldn't even unsnap the sensor where it sits by the firewall. It's just not my day.

So I cleared the code and RPMs are back down to an idling 800. Until I need to go to work and it dies on the freeway.

[Dubsport Inc]

You should not have to remove oil filter, the CPS bolt is straight in a little farther back!
http://www.google.ca/imgres?start=396&hl=en&sa=X&biw=1594&bih=826&tbm=isch&tbnid=XoPcFmqpnUN0fM:&imgrefurl=http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php%3F5271637-Where-is-the-Crank-Position-Sensor-located-2000-VR6-Mark-IV-Jetta&docid=xbVHqxox6vRz2M&imgurl=http://www.agthompsonfamily.com/vw/EngineSpeedSensorLocation.jpg&w=512&h=384&ei=1-o8UZ_5K9OmqQGOzoHwBw&zoom=1&ved=1t:3588,r:18,s:400,i:58&iact=rc&dur=896&page=12&tbnh=173&tbnw=217&ndsp=35&tx=105&ty=83

red arrow (pic may be off but all I could find!)

[OMG_SHARK]

Does any know if there is a place to get the rings that are found on the engine cover or will I have to buy a new cover? I found some B5 1.8T that have the rings but they dont look the same, they are all flat and not raised like the B6's. There are some A6s that look to have the raised rings but I am not sure if they would fit. Any help would be greatful

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/461213-Looking-for-engine-cover-AUDI-Rings-Emblem, seems like you can just buy the rings from the dealer.

[jubei4769]

Does any know if there is a place to get the rings that are found on the engine cover or will I have to buy a new cover? I found some B5 1.8T that have the rings but they dont look the same, they are all flat and not raised like the B6's. There are some A6s that look to have the raised rings but I am not sure if they would fit. Any help would be greatful

man, i just threw away my engine cover to, i could have pulled them off and gave them to you

[MNAudi101]

man, i just threw away my engine cover to, i could have pulled them off and gave them to you

darn you haha take a trip to the dump for me

[gmudan]

Anyone tell me how much life I have on my timing belt?
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s138/gurvir44/B8FC08AD-1BE1-4185-96D8-4F95372D01C7-1357-000000445FDB4671_zps810e4990.jpg

[MNAudi101]

To be honest that pictures doesnt really help

[gmudan]

^What would help? I would go to the dealership but they might charge me some bs fee.

[victimdumper]

also its not exactly easy to tell from the belt like that.
it would be easier for us to guess if you just told us the car mileage / year

[gmudan]

2005 b6. 82k miles.

[Dubsport Inc]

Do it soon.... cheap preventative maintenance! ^

[gmudan]

Thank you. I also had another stupid question. Im looking to buy a clutch slave cylinder and dont get this vin split. My vin ends in 8E25A121795. Am i looking for "From VIN 8E-4-270001, split is in the 2004 model year" or "Up to VIN 8E-4-270000, split is in the 2004 model year". Thanks again.

[chad99]

Back with a couple more stupid qs. I need new brakes since mine are finished. I was thinking of ugrading to S4B5 calipers.
Does this mean I need S4B5 rotors? or I can only use the A4B6 rotors?
Is it correct that S4B5 calipers need 4 pads on each caliper but they are smaller than A4B6 pads?
Is there anything else I need besides the calipers? Dust shields? What else?
Should I get SS lines too while I'm at it?
Are they going to fit under my stock 17 inch audi wheels?

Or should I just keep the stock ones and forget all this hassle with brakes..
I know I will have to spend at least 300$ for rotors and pads here, maybe it would make sens to buy better stuff to upgrade?

Thanks. This is really for

my general knowledge.

Also need the hard lines and hard line mounts

[chad99]

Thank you. I also had another stupid question. Im looking to buy a clutch slave cylinder and dont get this vin split. My vin ends in 8E25A121795. Am i looking for "From VIN 8E-4-270001, split is in the 2004 model year" or "Up to VIN 8E-4-270000, split is in the 2004 model year". Thanks again.

It should be the "from" one

[jubei4769]

darn you haha take a trip to the dump for me

Actually might be in my recycling bin still


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[Sundevil84]

My car runs and drives great, but when it is in drive and I am at a red light it sounds like crap (sounds kind of like a diesel engine). When it is in park it sounds fine. Any idea on what is causing this sound? I have replaced transmission mounts and fluid.

[jubei4769]

darn you haha take a trip to the dump for me

Just checked, still have it. The rings are held in by some kind of epoxy

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/12/ba7epa8u.jpg


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[victimdumper]

Does any know if there is a place to get the rings that are found on the engine cover or will I have to buy a new cover? I found some B5 1.8T that have the rings but they dont look the same, they are all flat and not raised like the B6's. There are some A6s that look to have the raised rings but I am not sure if they would fit. Any help would be greatful

I have those engine cover rings sitting in my room right now haha.
I pulled them off an old cover. if you want them i don't need them

Edit: looks like jubei4769 is all over it

[jubei4769]

^ just get the set on ringer racing, you can choose call / conical / both

i already ordered the set from 034, conical lugnuts are for aftermarket wheels so i have to use ballseat. i just havent found anything other than chrome for ballseat lugnuts

[brady.]

My car runs and drives great, but when it is in drive and I am at a red light it sounds like crap (sounds kind of like a diesel engine). When it is in park it sounds fine. Any idea on what is causing this sound? I have replaced transmission mounts and fluid.

How many miles? Do you hear clicking upon acceleration? Could be your exhaust gaskets. Any maintenance done in this area recently?

other possibilities:
-cam tensioner
-sticking valves

Although these would happen whether the car is in gear or not. Just my guess

[Sundevil84]

Thanks Brady,

I have 118k, I have done only basic maintenance, although I did drop my oil pan and replaced the pick up tube about 2 months ago, but the noise was there before that.

If it was the cam tensioner or sticking valve wouldn't I hear it when the car was also in drive?

[audi_nightrider]

can I mix 2.0 TFSI coilpacks??

I have both plastic surround and metal ones. the plastic ones keeps on cracking and cause my car to misfire. I also don't know why they kept on cracking even if I'm using the IE adapters and gapped my plugs .42

[customa4]

I have those engine cover rings sitting in my room right now haha.
I pulled them off an old cover. if you want them i don't need them

Edit: looks like jubei4769 is all over it

Ill take the rings if you don't need them and MNAudi is squared away with some rings already. I hate looking at my damn engine bay with no rings.

[victimdumper]

Ill take the rings if you don't need them and MNAudi is squared away with some rings already. I hate looking at my damn engine bay with no rings.

sure thing, PM your address i can prob fit them in a regular envelope

[audi_nightrider]

^^ I'll take the plastic bolts/screws which locks the engine cover if you still have them =)

[MNAudi101]

Ill take the rings if you don't need them and MNAudi is squared away with some rings already. I hate looking at my damn engine bay with no rings.

I am not squared away, WTH I need rings

[jubei4769]

Replied to your message. If need be I can send you the cover, it's not useable but has the rings.


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[brady.]

Thanks Brady,

I have 118k, I have done only basic maintenance, although I did drop my oil pan and replaced the pick up tube about 2 months ago, but the noise was there before that.

If it was the cam tensioner or sticking valve wouldn't I hear it when the car was also in drive?

you are correct, you would. but theoretically if you do not hear it while reving in neutral then it is not the tensioner or valves. the reason the noise appears is when the car is in drive is because the strain causes engine to move a bit thus opening up that exhaust leak. any check engine lights?

does the car make noise while driving? I am willing to bet it does but you cannot hear it over the road noise. only reason you notice it at a light is because you are not moving. bottom line you can tell if it is an exhaust issue by doing a leakdown test. but then again it might be hidden because its not in drive causing the "worst case scenerio."

I just picked up a car not too long ago and it sounded like a "card in a bicycle wheel spoke" ticking noise upon acceleration. Never in neutral or under a constant rpm. Thus I knew it was not my valves sticking or cam tensioner going bad. Picked up exhaust manifold gaskets and exhaust gaskets for $56 off of ecs tuning. Bye bye ticking noise

EDIT: now that I think about it, it could be your crank case ventilation or pcv as its called also... I suggest researching your symptoms with key words diesel sounds.

[Yanis_IV]

Don't know if this is even the place to do this, but as a new member this seems to be it.

I just purchased a 2002 B6 A4 3.0 and found something interesting/concerning in the trunk. I have no clue what it is but in my mind I am thinking part of the cams or maybe the transmission. I have included a few pictures and I hope someone here might be able to let me know what it is or implies about my particular car. Thanks in advance!

http://i.imgur.com/b5wOH91l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/d4lyWtwl.jpg

[customa4]

I am not squared away, WTH I need rings

Well the rings are yours. I actually stopped in to the local dealer yesterday to grab some caliper bolts. While I was there I figured I'd ask if they sold the rings separately and he said yup. Sad part is they wanted $65!!

[customa4]

BTW the part number is 4H0 103 940 for the rings on the plastic engine cover.

[jursch2211]

Can someone tell me what kind of leather came on the S4 Recaros? I'm trying to figure out if they are pearl nappa leather or silk nappa leather or if there is even a difference between the two.

[87supraman]

Interesting find. Probably part of a rare grandfather clock worth more than our cars.

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[a4darkness]

What is Old Guy's clock doing in your trunk?

[FormulaOne]

Let's say I am a total noob. How do I know if enkei's 18' LS-5 will fit on my car? And what kind of tires I would have to buy? How much would they cost me??

[jubei4769]

Let's say I am a total noob. How do I know if enkei's 18' LS-5 will fit on my car? And what kind of tires I would have to buy? How much would they cost me??

All depends on what kind of tires you want.

[Peacob]

Let's say I am a total noob. How do I know if enkei's 18' LS-5 will fit on my car? And what kind of tires I would have to buy? How much would they cost me??


You need to find out if they are a 5x112 bolt pattern... if they arent, then you need hub adapters. Regardless, i dont find any enkei wheels tasteful on an Audi, so i'd say skip. You also need to know what offset they are, which will tell you how flush to the fender they will be. ET42 is OEM offset, ET35 is pretty flush.

Tires are pretty straight forward... look at what kind of tire you want, whether it be all season, summer, winter, ect. And most sites will give you sizes based on the size of your wheel. Go through the b6 wheel thread and see the size of wheel and what tire sizes they are running with what offset to give you an idea of what you should be buying.

Do your research.

[jubei4769]

You need to find out if they are a 5x112 bolt pattern... if they arent, then you need hub adapters. Regardless, i dont find any enkei wheels tasteful on an Audi, so i'd say skip. You also need to know what offset they are, which will tell you how flush to the fender they will be. ET42 is OEM offset, ET35 is pretty flush.

Tires are pretty straight forward... look at what kind of tire you want, whether it be all season, summer, winter, ect. And most sites will give you sizes based on the size of your wheel. Go through the b6 wheel thread and see the size of wheel and what tire sizes they are running with what offset to give you an idea of what you should be buying.

Do your research.

i looked them up and they do come in a 5x112 with an et50 and the wheels are quite ugly

[mauromj]

What is the red pull hook for that is by the passenger side tail light. I accidentally pulled it and pulled a pin put along with it. What does this pin do? Thanks

[FormulaOne]

You need to find out if they are a 5x112 bolt pattern... if they arent, then you need hub adapters. Regardless, i dont find any enkei wheels tasteful on an Audi, so i'd say skip. You also need to know what offset they are, which will tell you how flush to the fender they will be. ET42 is OEM offset, ET35 is pretty flush.

Tires are pretty straight forward... look at what kind of tire you want, whether it be all season, summer, winter, ect. And most sites will give you sizes based on the size of your wheel. Go through the b6 wheel thread and see the size of wheel and what tire sizes they are running with what offset to give you an idea of what you should be buying.

Do your research.

Thank you Peacob, I will.


i looked them up and they do come in a 5x112 with an et50 and the wheels are quite ugly


Indeed they are ugly. Not what I expected. Picture and real are two different things. I saw S4 rims for 500$ though. Maybe I should jump on that. They are near mint.

[old guy]

What is the red pull hook for that is by the passenger side tail light. I accidentally pulled it and pulled a pin put along with it. What does this pin do? Thanks

Opens the door to the gas cap. It's there in case the electromagnetic opener fails.

[FormulaOne]

http://www.audizine.com/forum/album.php?albumid=5248&attachmentid=14799

Are those tinted stock taillights?

[customa4]

http://www.audizine.com/forum/album.php?albumid=5248&attachmentid=14799

Are those tinted stock taillights?

yes

[Johnny1.8T]

Going to be purchasing a set of ID1000 injectors and it gives me some options for "connector type". I'm not 100% sure which would be the best choice to make. The options are: Clips and pins, pigtails, and USCAR to EV1 plug & play adapters. I would assume the USCAR to EV1 adapters would be the easiest, but again, I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated!

http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/index.php/en/products/details/1047/306/fuel-injectors/id1000/audi/injector-dynamics-1000cc-injector-set-for-audi-2.0t.html

[FormulaOne]

I have an MT car and everytime I try to go in first gear it hardly goes there, I have to force it (note that I always push the clutch to the end before switching speed), sometimes 2nd gear isn't smooth at all too. Also it makes that weird noise (when going in first) - I suppose it's coming from the transmission? The noise is hard to describe (it's like if you pulled something), but I'm sure you know what I am talking about...I could often hear this noise in cheap MT cars but on an audi it seems kinda odd. Do you have any ideas what could be the cause?

[Lornnn]

Is the hood release on the B6 just incredibly stiff or is something wrong? When I pull it will only release once it gets to the point where I'm thinking "this thing is about to break". Anyone else experience this?

[87supraman]

Is the hood release on the B6 just incredibly stiff or is something wrong? When I pull it will only release once it gets to the point where I'm thinking "this thing is about to break". Anyone else experience this?

Try lubing up the latch. Mine was similar to that. Now even the hood pops up when I pull the handle. I just used some wd40.

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[FormulaOne]

Try lubing up the latch. Mine was similar to that. Now even the hood pops up when I pull the handle. I just used some wd40.

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x2 I had the same problem. I lubed it and now it opens.

[FormulaOne]

Can't find the engine bay picture thread, could anyone link it please?

[chad99]

Can someone tell me what kind of leather came on the S4 Recaros? I'm trying to figure out if they are pearl nappa leather or silk nappa leather or if there is even a difference between the two.

I have no idea and also no idea what the difference is...are you going to re upholster the S4 seats?

[Lornnn]

Try lubing up the latch. Mine was similar to that. Now even the hood pops up when I pull the handle. I just used some wd40.

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Thanks for the tip. It has helped a bit but I'm thinking the hood must've slammed down pretty hard with the previous owner because it doesn't look aligned entirely right. The hook on the top gets bitten by the latch too hard so even after being lubed its still pretty difficult to open. Hoping my cable doesn't snap.

[jursch2211]

I have no idea and also no idea what the difference is...are you going to re upholster the S4 seats?

Thinking about it. Just doing some research now on the leather I might go with.

[G.AUDI]

I have ecodes with citylights I got off ebay and resistors spliced into the wiring. However one light burned out and I am wondering if I can buy citylights with built-in resistors or do I have to buy the city lights without built-in resistors???

[lencho1500]

Quick one, for those with AN fuel system components.

Did you guys use any sealant on your AN fuel fittings? If so what did you use?

[Emilgevor]

I have 05 Avant 1.8 TIP
Do polyurethane snub mounts do much for TIP cars? I was servicing my DV last night and noticed that my OEM was cracked in multiple places.

[ingolstadta4]

I have 05 Avant 1.8 TIP
Do polyurethane snub mounts do much for TIP cars? I was servicing my DV last night and noticed that my OEM was cracked in multiple places.

Yes motor still moves in tip cars, I run one in mine

[customa4]

I have 05 Avant 1.8 TIP
Do polyurethane snub mounts do much for TIP cars? I was servicing my DV last night and noticed that my OEM was cracked in multiple places.

Yes, I put the APR on mine and it was night and day compared to stock. My stock one looked like a piece of ripped up orange styrofoam when I took it out. I think I gained like 8 more hp too.

[smtroupe]

Two questions why do people get snub mounts and does our car have a accessory setting when you turn the key or just on and off

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[old guy]

No "accessory" position per se. Just off/on/start. The snub mount (aka torque damper) helps control the drive-train rotation when under high torque loads.

[a4darkness]

^^ Because eventually they do disintegrate.

I haz a question. Anyone ever successfully polished a windshield to remove pitting? Mine is pretty dinged up from lots o freeway driving and too many touchless car washes with reclaimed H20. Sad panda.

[old guy]

Don't bother, Thomas. I purchased a Janvil Glass Polishing kit. Didn't do a damn thing for the pitting. I was able to eliminate a few of the arc shaped scratches from the wiper blades but that was about it. You can get a new windshield installed for under $300. Stay away from the PPG glass. Sekurit is fine.

[gmudan]

^ I can vouch for that. I bought a buffer, cerium oxide and glass polish. Didnt do squat for my windshield or my windows. (Windows have straight line scratches though them)

[Emilgevor]

Well looks like im going to be getting a BFI snub mount. Install looks very easy.

How hard is it to remove fenders? Too much work or simple process?

[Lautz227]

So how important is the plastic cover that goes under the car? Cause it scraped off today :/ Thats what i did to my b6 today ): Do i need a new one asap? or just when i get around to it?

[ingolstadta4]

So how important is the plastic cover that goes under the car? Cause it scraped off today :/ Thats what i did to my b6 today ): Do i need a new one asap? or just when i get around to it?
no rush raleigh shouldnt see any see the rest of the year so you should be fine. mines been gone for 2 years
http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=325 i plan on buying this

[Lautz227]

no rush raleigh shouldnt see any see the rest of the year so you should be fine. mines been gone for 2 years
http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=325 i plan on buying this

Okay, thanks a lot. I really appreciate the help!

[lencho1500]

I'm going to bump my own question, sorry audizine, just in case it went unseen. TIA!

Quick one, for those with AN fuel system components.

Did you guys use any sealant on your AN fuel fittings? If so what did you use?

[Seerlah]

I use ARP sealant on the fittings for my fuel system. Leaked when I didn't.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9904

[xmirox]

Ok so I have a 2005 b6 and I'm not sure which one of these turbo inlet pipes will fit my car ....
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/Inlet_Hose/ES1832359/
Or
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/Inlet_Hose/ES1832362/
Someone help one has 4 connections one has 5 [headbang]

[jubei4769]

how much of a difference between an avants carpet and a sedan? i get the avant has the extra hatch portion but is it a separate piece of carpet? found a guy parting out a black interior avant and thinking about grabbing the carpet but not sure of the differences.

[Peacob]

Ok so I have a 2005 b6 and I'm not sure which one of these turbo inlet pipes will fit my car ....
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/Inlet_Hose/ES1832359/
Or
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/Inlet_Hose/ES1832362/
Someone help one has 4 connections one has 5 [headbang]

You need to go out and look at your VIN... it says right under the Product name. "Up to VIN 8E-3-500000, split is in the 2003 model year"
"From VIN 8E-4-000001, split is in the 2004 model year"

[xmirox]

You need to go out and look at your VIN... it says right under the Product name. "Up to VIN 8E-3-500000, split is in the 2003 model year"
"From VIN 8E-4-000001, split is in the 2004 model year"

Thanks I'm a noob

[gmudan]

Our cars run Dot 4 brake fluid, when i do my clutch slave cylinder, can i bleed out all of the dot 4 and use dot 5 or 5.1? Just because i have a lot of new bottles laying around.

[old guy]

Our cars run Dot 4 brake fluid, when i do my clutch slave cylinder, can i bleed out all of the dot 4 and use dot 5 or 5.1? Just because i have a lot of new bottles laying around.

DOT 4 or DOT 5.1. Do not use DOT 5 unless you plan on completely evacuating all the old fluid completely out of the system. Not worth the effort.

[gmudan]

DOT 4 or DOT 5.1. Do not use DOT 5 unless you plan on completely evacuating all the old fluid completely out of the system. Not worth the effort.

Thanks! Does that mean i can mix dot 4 and dot 5.1?

[old guy]

Thanks! Does that mean i can mix dot 4 and dot 5.1?

Yes you can.

[a4darkness]

Okay guys I'll pass on the polishing bit. I opted to post about it here ITT as I've discovered *massive* conflicting info out there concerning this topic... every auto and/or detailing board has a different answer and nothing seems to jive

Fletcher, I recall your posts some time ago about PPG glass and will certainly avoid it. Last thing I want is to trade my glare inducing pitting for glare inducing wonky glass. I'll be certain to use Sekurit.

Thank you both.


Don't bother, Thomas. I purchased a Janvil Glass Polishing kit. Didn't do a damn thing for the pitting. I was able to eliminate a few of the arc shaped scratches from the wiper blades but that was about it. You can get a new windshield installed for under $300. Stay away from the PPG glass. Sekurit is fine.


^ I can vouch for that. I bought a buffer, cerium oxide and glass polish. Didnt do squat for my windshield or my windows. (Windows have straight line scratches though them)

[AnotherMonday]

Super noob question >> Where is the driveshaft located? Looking to see if anything is rubbing against it to help narrow down this fluttering sound on my front end... B5 A4

[FormulaOne]

I can't put the back seats down. The left side works fine (1 place) but the right side doesn't want to go down (pass. side-2 places). I unlocked it with the key at the top, but it still doesn't want to go down. Help please! I don't want to force it.

[old guy]

Super noob question >> Where is the driveshaft located? Looking to see if anything is rubbing against it to help narrow down this fluttering sound on my front end... B5 A4

The drive-shaft connects the transmission to the rear differential. It supplies power to the rear axles. I listened to your video. Are you positive that the sound doesn't come from the rear of the car? I'm speculating that you damaged a rear CV joint when you spun out the other day. Was that when the noise started or was it present before the accident?

[AnotherMonday]

The drive-shaft connects the transmission to the rear differential. It supplies power to the rear axles. I listened to your video. Are you positive that the sound doesn't come from the rear of the car? I'm speculating that you damaged a rear CV joint when you spun out the other day. Was that when the noise started or was it present before the accident?

Circled the block a few times with the windows down. It's hard to really tell 100%, but it did seem that it was coming from the rear passenger side that was damaged upon further investigation. As for the date of origin, not clear on that either. But it was within the same time period, so it's safe to say it happened at the same time.

[old guy]

I would take a really close look at the riders side rear drive axle. Back the car up on ramps and grab the axle and try to move it up and down. Side to side (horizontal) motion is normal. If you feel any up and down movement you may need to replace the drive axle.

Edit: Also try jacking up the rear wheel and spinning it around to check for a wobble.

[87supraman]

Can someone point me in the direction of a DIY for the 3.0 intake manifold removal? I've searched everywhere and have nothing useful. I have everything off (injectors, fuel rail, all the bolts out, the fatty main vac line, all the other vac lines) but can't see what else is holding on to it. Trying not to break everything else back there.

I need to pull it off as I lifted it to inspect the vacuum drive unit thing and didn't clean the edges enough...so some gunk is now sitting on top of an intake valve. :banghead:

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[AnotherMonday]

I would take a really close look at the riders side rear drive axle. Back the car up on ramps and grab the axle and try to move it up and down. Side to side (horizontal) motion is normal. If you feel any up and down movement you may need to replace the drive axle.

Edit: Also try jacking up the rear wheel and spinning it around to check for a wobble.

Got the car up and, alas, no movement from the axle outside of the side-to-side movement. The rear passenger wheel also had no play in it either, just that ugly positive camber. Had a passenger sit in each seat to really pinpoint the direction of the sound, and it's the front right for sure. Been scratching my head about this for a good minute...

[deyrag]

Can you drive a quattro with both front axles removed?

[old guy]

That helps narrow things down a little. The noise is definitely related to the road speed so that eliminates anything related to the motor or the input side of the drive-train. Anything in those areas would increase/decrease with the motor speed.

Different issue: Positive camber on the rear passenger wheel? did that show up after the incident or was it already present? You can adjust the rear camber yourself: Clicky click (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/210830-DIY-B6-A4-Camber-Adjustment). All you need is a framing square and an angle calculator: Clicky click (http://www.csgnetwork.com/righttricalc.html).

Back to your problem: Perform the same inspection on the front drivers side drive axle. Make sure everything is nice and tight paying particular attention to the inner CV joint. If the outer joint is going bad it usually manifests itself more when turning left or right. The noise in you video seemed to increase with road speed regardless of which direction you were turning.

[old guy]

Can you drive a quattro with both front axles removed?

No. Not without modifying the drive-train.

[AnotherMonday]

That helps narrow things down a little. The noise is definitely related to the road speed so that eliminates anything related to the motor or the input side of the drive-train. Anything in those areas would increase/decrease with the motor speed.

Different issue: Positive camber on the rear passenger wheel? did that show up after the incident or was it already present? You can adjust the rear camber yourself: Clicky click (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/210830-DIY-B6-A4-Camber-Adjustment). All you need is a framing square and an angle calculator: Clicky click (http://www.csgnetwork.com/righttricalc.html).

Back to your problem: Perform the same inspection on the front drivers side drive axle. Make sure everything is nice and tight paying particular attention to the inner CV joint. If the outer joint is going bad it usually manifests itself more when turning left or right. The noise in you video seemed to increase with road speed regardless of which direction you were turning.

The strange thing with the sound is, it cuts out as soon as I get off the throttle. Whether I'm at 25 or 65, it immediately stops as I quit gassing it. If it were something rubbing, wouldn't it continue and lower in pitch as I slow down?

And yeah, the camber issue is definitely a product of the incident, lol. Back to the driveway for more inspection... Thanks for all the help so far, OG.

[old guy]

When I listened to the clip it sounded to me like the noise continued albeit quieter even when you were off throttle. It doesn't sound to me like a rubbing noise. It sounds more like a repeating knocking of clicking noise. That is what has me thinking CV joints. I will add your clip here since it is currently on the B5 forum. Maybe it will generate a few more ideas from the B6 crowd.

Definitely correct the rear camber issue if you can by using the camber adjustment eccentric. Unfortunately my guess is that you have a bent rear control arm as a result of the incident. Sound transmits in strange ways. Even though it seems to be coming from the front right it could be coming from the rear. Especially considering that you had a whack that was enough to change the wheel camber.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=98CqL6hLGtY]

[87supraman]

Can someone point me in the direction of a DIY for the 3.0 intake manifold removal? I've searched everywhere and have nothing useful. I have everything off (injectors, fuel rail, all the bolts out, the fatty main vac line, all the other vac lines) but can't see what else is holding on to it. Trying not to break everything else back there.

I need to pull it off as I lifted it to inspect the vacuum drive unit thing and didn't clean the edges enough...so some gunk is now sitting on top of an intake valve. :banghead:

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Ended up just winging it and got the manifold off. Then found this which would have helped nicely.
http://audirevolution.net/forum/index.php?topic=283.0

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[scapegrace]

Just looking for some clarification on the capabilities of VAG Com over a regular OBD II Scanner -- sounds like the obd II can pull codes but is not as efficient for gathering information on other issues that our cars might be experiencing. What more does VAG com offer in diagnostics as well as other things?

[freeloader700]

At what psi does the stock TIP start to collapse? I have Motoza stage 1 tune on the way and that will probably spike around 20 psi. Wondering if my stock TIP will handle that without issue or will I experience some collapsing issues

[customa4]

At what psi does the stock TIP start to collapse? I have Motoza stage 1 tune on the way and that will probably spike around 20 psi. Wondering if my stock TIP will handle that without issue or will I experience some collapsing issues

At 20 psi I would probably be looking to upgrade your TIP.

[freeloader700]

^^
Alright cool thanks. Now what would be better to get first, FMIC or the TIP? Because there is going to be a lot more heat generated

[G.AUDI]

I have ecodes with citylights I got off ebay and resistors spliced into the wiring. However one light burned out and I am wondering if I can buy citylights with built-in resistors or do I have to buy the city lights without built-in resistors???

Bumping this up again because I was did not find the answer. Can I replace a H6W bulb with built-in resistors to an headlight with a resistor already spliced into the wiring
or do I need to stick to a regular plain H6W bulb?

EDIT: Reason why I am asking is because I want to avoid the cheap ebay bulbs that burn out fast.

[Audi body]

Can you up your boost 2 to 4 pounds without chipping??

[Peacob]

Can you up your boost 2 to 4 pounds without chipping??

yes with an MBC

[brady.]

need some insight...

one of my cv joints is toast. If I buy a new axle for 1 side, is it good practice to buy for the other?

[old guy]

need some insight...

one of my cv joints is toast. If I buy a new axle for 1 side, is it good practice to buy for the other?

Just replace the defective one. No need to replace the other side unless it's giving you problems.

[tchuck]

need some insight...

one of my cv joints is toast. If I buy a new axle for 1 side, is it good practice to buy for the other?

Why not just replace the joint?

[brady.]

Why not just replace the joint?

I am guessing the car was driven like this for awhile. Unsure if this could cause damage or effect performance later on down the road. Mise as well pay the $90 for a non oem axle and be safe of mind. I guess smart thing to do though is to not be naive, will look into the kits too. PS: thanks for all your time and wisdom you invest in this community old guy. everytime you respond to my posts I have to pay my respect [;)]

EDIT: dumb question #2, how are non oem axles compared to oem? $90 versus $600 makes me question them.

[gregory.fazekas]

An OBII scanner can only pull codes that throw the MIL (check engine light) on. The vag-com on the other hand can scan for all DTC's. For example, I have a B6 A4 that was throwing a P0171, which is "System Bank 1 too lean". This could be everything from a vacuum leak to a bad MAF. When i put the vag-com on and ran some tests that were outlined on the ross tech wiki, I was able to determine that my MAF was bad, and I saved myself hours of diagnostic trial and error. The vag-com also has the capability to recode certain modules in the car to cause the vehicle to act or drive differently. We have a 2002 allroad that we were able to dump on its balls with the vag-com. Absolutely worth picking up the cable if you plan on working on your VW/Audi car.

[ingolstadta4]

ok im reading right at 20 vac at idle, my requested boost is 20 and my actual is 15. I boost leak test and found no leaks. I have a forge splitter and I feel like this is the issue. Any insight?

[87supraman]

EDIT: dumb question #2, how are non oem axles compared to oem? $90 versus $600 makes me question them.

They work, for a while. Hit or miss. The one I bought from Napa lasted 20k. Try posting in the classifieds for a used OEM axle, quite a few people have them laying around from part cars or transmission swaps. Be sure to save your bad OEM axle to use down the road as a core for a raxle as they won't take after market axles as a core.

OEM axles are hollow, all the after market axles I have encountered are solid.


Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

[nja4ga]

Where can I find and buy a vagcom unit for my 02 B6 1.8tq? It's a 5spd if that matters or not. How much do they typically run? I've been reading mostly every post and that's one of the first questioned ask, "Did u pull codes out with a vagcom? ". So I'm in the market for one.

[tchuck]

Where can I find and buy a vagcom unit for my 02 B6 1.8tq? It's a 5spd if that matters or not. How much do they typically run? I've been reading mostly every post and that's one of the first questioned ask, "Did u pull codes out with a vagcom? ". So I'm in the market for one.

www.ross-tech.com

[nja4ga]

www.ross-tech.com

Thanks Tchuck for the info :-D

[Johnny1.8T]

Going to be purchasing a set of ID1000 injectors and it gives me some options for "connector type". I'm not 100% sure which would be the best choice to make. The options are: Clips and pins, pigtails, and USCAR to EV1 plug & play adapters. I would assume the USCAR to EV1 adapters would be the easiest, but again, I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated!

http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/index.php/en/products/details/1047/306/fuel-injectors/id1000/audi/injector-dynamics-1000cc-injector-set-for-audi-2.0t.html

Bump...? [:(]

[geomor]

Hey guys just a quick question, would I be able to swap a polo gti engine (engine code 06A021C BJX ) into my b6 a4 with engine code AVJ. Got a pretty good deal on one and thinking of a build if its possible

[EinSchnellAudi]

Does the length of vacuum line make a difference? Say I want to reroute a line and need to add a foot of line, it shouldn't make a difference right? Or would that cause more stress in the system.

[Dubsport Inc]

Does the length of vacuum line make a difference? Say I want to reroute a line and need to add a foot of line, it shouldn't make a difference right? Or would that cause more stress in the system.
not at all!

[iamshayan]

installed my air fuel ratio gauge and Innovate LC1 controller today.
although I did not plug it into my computer to adjust the settings as I dont have a serial port.
I did the heater calibration and the open air calibration fine.
my problem is the gauge is reading 7.0 at idle and up to 10 when I rev it.

I thought it would come programmed for GAS initially, am I wrong or did I mess something else up?

also I used the yellow wire from the LC1 to the gauge.

[A4.Q]

Why does my light switch pull out half way to turn fogs on but pull out even farther to do nothing?

[customa4]

Why does my light switch pull out half way to turn fogs on but pull out even farther to do nothing?

It turns on your rear fog light. There is only one fog light in the rear driver side tail light.

[Dubsport Inc]

Why does my light switch pull out half way to turn fogs on but pull out even farther to do nothing?

Fog light left rear tail light!


Edit... beat me to it LOL^

[customa4]

Where can I find and buy a vagcom unit for my 02 B6 1.8tq? It's a 5spd if that matters or not. How much do they typically run? I've been reading mostly every post and that's one of the first questioned ask, "Did u pull codes out with a vagcom? ". So I'm in the market for one.

From what I've read this (http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/VCHUC.html) is the one that you want.

[scapegrace]

An OBII scanner can only pull codes that throw the MIL (check engine light) on. The vag-com on the other hand can scan for all DTC's. For example, I have a B6 A4 that was throwing a P0171, which is "System Bank 1 too lean". This could be everything from a vacuum leak to a bad MAF. When i put the vag-com on and ran some tests that were outlined on the ross tech wiki, I was able to determine that my MAF was bad, and I saved myself hours of diagnostic trial and error. The vag-com also has the capability to recode certain modules in the car to cause the vehicle to act or drive differently. We have a 2002 allroad that we were able to dump on its balls with the vag-com. Absolutely worth picking up the cable if you plan on working on your VW/Audi car.

thank you sir

[sa_seahawker]

IIMO, VAGcom should be every new Audi owners very first investment after buying the car. [drive]

[gregory.fazekas]

When driving, my traction control light will sometimes come on and stay on, indicating that the traction control is deactivated. The button does not respond and the only way to regain traction control is to turn the car off and on again. Any idea what could be causing this?

[iamshayan]

FWIW you connect the brown wire from the LC-1 to the VEI gauge not the yellow one. even though the LC-1 manual says to use the yellow one.

[SlickFix]

When driving, my traction control light will sometimes come on and stay on, indicating that the traction control is deactivated. The button does not respond and the only way to regain traction control is to turn the car off and on again. Any idea what could be causing this?

When that happened to me, it was my brake light switch, which is a very simple DIY job (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/331013-DIY-B6-B7-A4-S4-Sticky-Brake-Light-Switch)and will take all of 15 minutes. The brake switches are cheap, too. There are other possibilities, but this is the easiest thing to try first.

[gregory.fazekas]

When that happened to me, it was my brake light switch, which is a very simple DIY job (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/331013-DIY-B6-B7-A4-S4-Sticky-Brake-Light-Switch)and will take all of 15 minutes. The brake switches are cheap, too. There are other possibilities, but this is the easiest thing to try first.

Thanks, I'll try that today

[Collinscj]

Can you get different HID headlights and use the stock ballasts or do you have to order ballasts and bulbs together. Also what hid kits have you guys used for fogs/headlights.

Thanks

[Mase]

Can you get different HID headlights and use the stock ballasts or do you have to order ballasts and bulbs together. Also what hid kits have you guys used for fogs/headlights.

Thanks

you have factory xenons or halogens? i have factory xenons and ive used stock 4300k, 6k, & 5k (which i have now) and i use my stock ballasts

[SlickFix]

What's the big advantage of having something like calipers powder-coated compared to using something like caliper paint in a spray can?

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

What's the big advantage of having something like calipers powder-coated compared to using something like caliper paint in a spray can?

Powder coating is much less likely to chip or flake off.

Jason

[gmudan]

Anyone know the part number for this? Or if they sell it at all?
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s138/gurvir44/3350D5E4-2F1D-4D85-A579-E590AC71B787-966-0000001938DDA256_zps0f51c68d.jpg

[victimdumper]

anyone know whats a good price to pay for a symphony 2+ headunit with no peeling or anything?
guy around here wants 80, don't know if i should drop him down at all

[jubei4769]

anyone know whats a good price to pay for a symphony 2+ headunit with no peeling or anything?
guy around here wants 80, don't know if i should drop him down at all

ive seen them going for 100+

[victimdumper]

^ hmmmm i may have to jump on this then
he has the code and everything which is a plus

[MNAudi101]

^ hmmmm i may have to jump on this then
he has the code and everything which is a plus

I am looking at one tomorrow for $130 in mint with code, but then I heard the harness is like 70 bucks

[victimdumper]

I am looking at one tomorrow for $130 in mint with code, but then I heard the harness is like 70 bucks

ya i was reading about that, I also realized my current ipod integration wont work with it, so that's another $80 or so...
oh well, I'm sure the guy will sell it no problem to someone else

[jubei4769]

Can this piece be removed out of a door blade, if so how? I tried prying it a little and it didnt budge

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/24/6a7ejuma.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[chad99]

Anyone know the part number for this? Or if they sell it at all?


I don't see any part number for the high beam reflector, just pick up a new or used housing

[SlickFix]

I'm sure the guy will sell it no problem to someone else

Link to this HU on sale, please!

[TwinTipSkier]

Feel pretty dumb asking this.
Light braking, car shifts weight forward, ie pulling into my driveway/parking lot speeds. Intermitteningly *clicking* noise.

No tears in CVs. Nothing glairing wrong and it feels great at speed. The front end is original @ 126 however.
Giving a poke out here to see if you all say the same thing.
TIA guys!

[marmstrong]

How do i remove the transmission fill plug and where exactly is it located. i have a 2003 1.8t manual transmission. i was told my gear box fluid is low??? thanks

[TwinTipSkier]

How do i remove the transmission fill plug and where exactly is it located. i have a 2003 1.8t manual transmission. i was told my gear box fluid is low??? thanks

Any moisture around trans? If it's not leaking, shouldn't be low. But the plug is on the drivers side.
Clicky (http://www.audiforum.ca/a4-b5-b6-b7-b8-65/a4-changing-transmission-gear-oil-5speed-pics-62735/)
Above is B5, but my 02 was zactly the same.

[marmstrong]

Any moisture around trans? If it's not leaking, shouldn't be low. But the plug is on the drivers side.
Clicky (http://www.audiforum.ca/a4-b5-b6-b7-b8-65/a4-changing-transmission-gear-oil-5speed-pics-62735/)
Above is B5, but my 02 was zactly the same.


thanks very helpful

[old guy]

thanks very helpful

And here is the easy way to fill it from under the hood. Just move the coolant reservoir to the side for access. No need to undo any hoses.

http://i43.tinypic.com/10nfbsy.jpg

[ProAudi]

What the hell is the differance in S4, A4

What does the letters mean ????

[marmstrong]

And here is the easy way to fill it from under the hood. Just move the coolant reservoir to the side for access. No need to undo any hoses.

http://i43.tinypic.com/10nfbsy.jpg

also whats the best oil should i use and also should i just add oil or should i just drain all of it and refill it back??

[old guy]

If you are going to service it at all you may as well go ahead and change it. There are many opinions on which fluid is best. A quick search will give you lots of hits. My recommendation is to either use the OEM fluid (very $$$) or get some Motul Gear 300.

Let the arguments begin!!

[TwinTipSkier]

Feel pretty dumb asking this.
Light braking, car shifts weight forward, ie pulling into my driveway/parking lot speeds. Intermitteningly *clicking* noise.

No tears in CVs. Nothing glairing wrong and it feels great at speed. The front end is original @ 126 however.
Giving a poke out here to see if you all say the same thing.
TIA guys!

Spent a couple hours with my service jack and lifted both sides of the front end. Pulled wheels to get closer look at C/As and CVs. Again, nothing obvious except very minor tearing inside bushes. They do not move(even with light/moderate pry bar leverage).
I'm very easy on her and have the original pads from when I bought the car(50k and they have plenty of meat left). Could they be sticking?

[old guy]

What the hell is the differance in S4, A4

What does the letters mean ????

The S4 is the high performance version. Moa powa, better brakes etc.
A4 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audi_A4)
S4 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audi_S4)

[Seerlah]

installed my air fuel ratio gauge and Innovate LC1 controller today.
although I did not plug it into my computer to adjust the settings as I dont have a serial port.
I did the heater calibration and the open air calibration fine.
my problem is the gauge is reading 7.0 at idle and up to 10 when I rev it.

I thought it would come programmed for GAS initially, am I wrong or did I mess something else up?

also I used the yellow wire from the LC1 to the gauge.

Read you got the wire figured out, but now you need to calibrate the gauge. The readings work on a 0-5v signal, which is the wire you figured out. You need to set the range of that wire for 0v and 5v for gasoline (this gives you the readings on your gauge). That correlates to the ya and yb setting. You also need to set the range to 99.9. After you set the range, you set the ya to 7.4 and the yb to 22.4 for the Innovate LC-1. Different WB units use different calibration numbers. And don't bother changing the IIr.

*read: holding down the button moves to next selection. tapping the button lets you change settings within that selection. it will make sense below...

These calibrations are done with the engine off, and key in starting position. Hold down the button on the VEI gauge. It will flash and the channel swap should be your first option. Hold down the button again to get to the next option. Do this till you can set the range. It will be either 99.9 or 9.99. You want to set this to 99.9 by giving the button a quick tap (not holding down). Once the range is set, you need to get to the ya setting. Once again, hold down the button to get to the next calibration number. Once in the ya setting, tap the button till you get to 7.4. DO NOT over shoot this number. If you do, you will have to tap that button all the way to 99.9 and then start from zero again to get to 7.4. Ask me how I know. Anyways, once you get to the 7.4 then you hold down the button again to get to the yb setting. Again, you want to tap the button till you reach 22.4. After that, hold down the button to get to the next setting. If it is IIr, leave that alone and that should be it. Take key out ignition and it should be set. Upon start up your gauge should be calibrated. If you change your WB, those ya and yb settings will most likely be different. I had both the LC-1 and currently running the AEM Uego. They both use different calibration numbers for the 0-5v signal. Reason being is the AEM works on a .5-5v range I think it is. Numbers change on the scale.

[audi_nightrider]

so which rear axle is bad when my car is making noise while turning left???

TIA

[SlickFix]

so which rear axle is bad when my car is making noise while turning left???

TIA

So it doesn't make any noise while driving straight ahead? I was thinking wheel bearing if it also makes noise starting at around 20 mph.

[SlickFix]

Spent a couple hours with my service jack and lifted both sides of the front end. Pulled wheels to get closer look at C/As and CVs. Again, nothing obvious except very minor tearing inside bushes. They do not move(even with light/moderate pry bar leverage).
I'm very easy on her and have the original pads from when I bought the car(50k and they have plenty of meat left). Could they be sticking?

Is it just once click when you apply the brakes, or a series of them? Do you get clicking under any other situation other than when transferring weight from back to front?

Do you have the original snub mount? If so, you should probably inspect that and see if you're hitting metal to metal. The OEM one's deteriorate over time. Also, check the belly pan for any loose/missing bolts.

[audi_nightrider]

So it doesn't make any noise while driving straight ahead? I was thinking wheel bearing if it also makes noise starting at around 20 mph.

Nope, just when turning left. no humming/rubbing sound that bad wheel bearings make.

The noise mine makes is grinding metal noise...
and if it helps, the noise gets worse when someone is sitting rear passenger side.
it's barely there when I'm by myself....

on speed bumps, I swerve towards the right so only driver side goes up the bump. it makes the same grinding metal noise once I'm on the speed bump. Again, only the driver side is up the speed bump while passenger side is at the gap between the bump and the curb.

^^ Sorry, hope you understand what I'm trying to say.

P.S. no vibration on acceleration or even high speed 90+mph on freeway.

[TwinTipSkier]

Is it just once click when you apply the brakes, or a series of them? Do you get clicking under any other situation other than when transferring weight from back to front?

Do you have the original snub mount? If so, you should probably inspect that and see if you're hitting metal to metal. The OEM one's deteriorate over time. Also, check the belly pan for any loose/missing bolts.

Thanks for the reply!
One or two loud clicks usually not more than one, like something metal settling in. No other situation. I do not feel it in the steering or my butt.
ECS snub, installed a few years ago, as well as 034 street mounts about a year ago. I'm fairly handy, but leave certain things to the professionals.

FWIW, I just pulled into my drive and got on my back after I heard it again leaving this morning (I was prepared and put some windows down). Rear sway moves inside its bushes and links move around a bit inside themselves with my pry bar at curb weight. Could be!?

[gmudan]

If i upgrade my brake pads only, will my stopping distance reduce under 100% braking?

[TwinTipSkier]

If i upgrade my brake pads only, will my stopping distance reduce under 100% braking?

Doubtful. Probably remain the same once bedded. If you lathe the rotors mabe, as more pad will come in contact with rotor.

[marmstrong]

if your hydraulic mineral fluid reservoir is low what r the effects that can happen with driving??

[SlickFix]

if your hydraulic mineral fluid reservoir is low what r the effects that can happen with driving??

If it's low enough, it could damage your power steering pump. When you fill it up, remember that the true "full" line is 10mm above the MAX line when the engine is warm. I fill mine until the entire word "MAX" is covered.

[EinSchnellAudi]

is the wiper arm itself supposed to be set up at a particular angle? It seems to be too low of an angle and every wiper blade I plut on chatters from too much down force if that makes sense. Can't seem to adjust it perfectly.

[A4.Q]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/29/evenu5eb.jpg wtf are the two top buttons. One is not labeled but does move and 'click'. Obviously the lowest is the trunk.

[freeloader700]

^^

Top is so you an have the alarm set while it is being towed

Middle is to turn off the inside alarm sensors i.e. if you have a pet inside the car and want the alarm on

[customa4]

Like Freeloader said those buttons are to turn the sensors off in your car. The one on top is always on by default so if your car is lifted the alarm will sound. The middle switch always on by default and is for motion inside the car and you can turn it off if you leave your pet in the car or your child(kidding) The bottom one pops your trunk.

[A4.Q]

Thanks!!

[chad99]

wtf are the two top buttons. One is not labeled but does move and 'click'. Obviously the lowest is the trunk.

Also when the light is on the sensor is off, both of those buttons will reset next time you arm the system.
Also I think if you don't have the icon for the motion sensor on the second button that means you don't have motion detectors in the car. I thought only avants had motion detectors and not sedans?

[FoRbAnNa]

Is the length of the pistons on the rear shocks on the sedan B6 different between 01-02 and 03-04 model years? I just replaced my 2nd set of Bilstein sport shocks with my 3rd set of Bilsteins but this time the previous part number were superseeded by a new partnumber acording to ECS. The new shocks had larger diameter pistons but they were 3cm shorter, the base of the shock itself is the same length.

When the suspension was hanging freely after jacking up the car I couldn't just reverse the install with my new shocks because the shock was shorter so I had to jack up the wheel hub by about an inch to thread the two upper bolts. I far as I can remember, this isnt normal?? Won't that put excessive pressure on the rear shocks everytime I jack up my car to change tires etc since the shocks are the only thing holding the wheel and hub from hanging completely free in the air?

According to the european Bilstein online catalogue the shocks I just bought are only for 03-04 model years. What can happen with my suspension if I do have the wrong shock length? Short lifetime? This set is the third bilstein set in less than 3 years on my car..!

[jubei4769]

Also when the light is on the sensor is off, both of those buttons will reset next time you arm the system.
Also I think if you don't have the icon for the motion sensor on the second button that means you don't have motion detectors in the car. I thought only avants had motion detectors and not sedans?

i have the motion detectors in my sedan

[daihashi]

Also when the light is on the sensor is off, both of those buttons will reset next time you arm the system.
Also I think if you don't have the icon for the motion sensor on the second button that means you don't have motion detectors in the car. I thought only avants had motion detectors and not sedans?

I have the icon for the second button, my car is a sedan.

[chad99]

I have the icon for the second button, my car is a sedan.

Oh ok, strange that not all of the b6s have the motion sensors, wonder what package you had to have to get the motion sensors?

[jubei4769]

Oh ok, strange that not all of the b6s have the motion sensors, wonder what package you had to have to get the motion sensors?

only package mine has is sport and cold weather

[westie180]

Oh, hell, another issue. Anyone experienced sputtering/coughing startup? For the past two weeks or so, I've noticed my engine sputters when cranking - especially if doing a warm start - but runs perfectly fine otherwise. No CEL. I think my BKR6E's are due for replacement, as they have 4000 miles on them (and I'm switching back to iridium plugs after this). I'm just not sure they're the real issue here. Any sensors I should consider? Also, might there be codes logged that won't throw a CEL?

[Seerlah]

can you pull your cam and crank seals withou pullin the camshaft and crankshaft?

some say dull screwdriver to pull / tap in with deep socket but i dont see that as possible.

also has anyone figured out how to disable that stupid yellow oil sensor??

You will be having your front end off and timing belt removed when doing this. Really no getting around it. With the exhaust cam, you need to take off the cam gear and cam bolt. You will want to place on a brand new cam bolt when placing the gear back on. What I did when I replaced mine was take off the valve cover (in DTC position of course), just loosen the cam bolts, and that is how I did my cam seals. Not sure if that is even necessary at all, but that is how I did mine. The cam bolts have a 7 ft/lbs torque spec, so I just made them snug upon re-tightening. No issues thus far.

I had my engine out when I did the crank seal (both front and rear). But if you remove the front main, then you can easily remove the little circular seal. All oil must be drained, and this is how I placed mine on if I recall correctly. Not saying that you should go this route, but it is the route I took. Also, be cautious that you get the correct size. Some sites have them listed different (ECS and FCP both have the sizes listed incorrectly. MJM had it correct). Research it before ordering to know you are getting the correct size.

[TwinTipSkier]

Oh, hell, another issue. Anyone experienced sputtering/coughing startup? For the past two weeks or so, I've noticed my engine sputters when cranking - especially if doing a warm start - but runs perfectly fine otherwise. No CEL. I think my BKR6E's are due for replacement, as they have 4000 miles on them (and I'm switching back to iridium plugs after this). I'm just not sure they're the real issue here. Any sensors I should consider? Also, might there be codes logged that won't throw a CEL?

Ever replace your speed sensor(G28)? I had some weird hard start issues much like you describe, and since I replaced that its been nice and strong.
Click! (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/104097-B6-A4-1-8T-Engine-Speed-Sensor-%28G28%29-Replacement)
My copper cores(BKR6E) plugs have been in for 8k+ fwiw.

On a side note, my "dumb" issue I had before ended up being shot front brake pads. Took advantage of the beautiful weather here in the northeast this morning and got sh*t done. Even though they had plenty of meat left, the friction material separated from the backing. Causing my occational 1 or 2 loud clicking noises. Result!! [wrench] Did my rear sway links/bushes as well since I felt movement in them a few days ago. Now shes tight as a drum! I love my B6...

[SlickFix]

Ever replace your speed sensor(G28)?

I was thinking that, or the crank position sensor.

[westie180]

I'm guessing both would log some sort of code. Well, I'll see what a scan tells me.

[TwinTipSkier]

I'm guessing both would log some sort of code. Well, I'll see what a scan tells me.

True, but stranger things have happened and its good insurance for not much money. GL!

[iamshayan]

Read you got the wire figured out, but now you need to calibrate the gauge. The readings work on a 0-5v signal, which is the wire you figured out. You need to set the range of that wire for 0v and 5v for gasoline (this gives you the readings on your gauge). That correlates to the ya and yb setting. You also need to set the range to 99.9. After you set the range, you set the ya to 7.4 and the yb to 22.4 for the Innovate LC-1. Different WB units use different calibration numbers. And don't bother changing the IIr.

*read: holding down the button moves to next selection. tapping the button lets you change settings within that selection. it will make sense below...

These calibrations are done with the engine off, and key in starting position. Hold down the button on the VEI gauge. It will flash and the channel swap should be your first option. Hold down the button again to get to the next option. Do this till you can set the range. It will be either 99.9 or 9.99. You want to set this to 99.9 by giving the button a quick tap (not holding down). Once the range is set, you need to get to the ya setting. Once again, hold down the button to get to the next calibration number. Once in the ya setting, tap the button till you get to 7.4. DO NOT over shoot this number. If you do, you will have to tap that button all the way to 99.9 and then start from zero again to get to 7.4. Ask me how I know. Anyways, once you get to the 7.4 then you hold down the button again to get to the yb setting. Again, you want to tap the button till you reach 22.4. After that, hold down the button to get to the next setting. If it is IIr, leave that alone and that should be it. Take key out ignition and it should be set. Upon start up your gauge should be calibrated. If you change your WB, those ya and yb settings will most likely be different. I had both the LC-1 and currently running the AEM Uego. They both use different calibration numbers for the 0-5v signal. Reason being is the AEM works on a .5-5v range I think it is. Numbers change on the scale.

thank you for that sir. I spoke to winston and he cleared it up for me turns out I was using the wrong signal wire from the LC1,
we did try this though and I did overshoot 22.4 and man what pita.
thanks for your help!

[diagnosticator]

Yes, the right size splash shields are important during wet weather. The smaller diameter original splash shields cannot protect the larger rotor properly, and will effect the initial braking when the brakes are first applied after running in the wet with the brakes released, like on the highway.

[Seerlah]

thank you for that sir. I spoke to winston and he cleared it up for me turns out I was using the wrong signal wire from the LC1,
we did try this though and I did overshoot 22.4 and man what pita.
thanks for your help!

no problem

[adjustmentpolic]

I bought a new key fob (just the remote) from a scrap yard. It is exactly the same as the old one, same frequency, very similar numbers printed on the inside of the remote. I have tried every method for programming this new key I have been able to read on the internet but nothing has worked.

Do I need a vagcom to do this? If so what would you guys recommend for me to get for doing jobs like key programming and helping me clear some annoying lights in the dash (headlight auto level).

[Seerlah]

The part number needs to match or at least be compatible. For example, I just replaced my remote and reprogrammed it a couple days ago. All part numbers matched besides the last letter when I was shopping. Was looking for a couple days, and I finally found one with the same number (even though other remotes I came across ads stated they were compatible with my car, they really aren't). Works like a charm as this confirmed my old remote was shot. I own a B5, but the same principle should apply. Not all part numbers for remotes are compatible.

[gmudan]

Can anyone take a picture of there km/h dash when the cars off? I messed up the position of my rpm needle when I took it apart to change LEDs.

[freeloader700]

Is this my PCV Valve?

I have a 2003

http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp134/freeloader700/DE3CB2E1-A74B-4A7F-A648-CAB2D66340F0-120-0000000146B3E966_zps4f10aec7.jpg

[Seerlah]

That is your prv. Your PVC is under your intake manifold coming off your crank case breather on a tee.

[freeloader700]

^^

Thanks, now what years have the PCV on the TIP? Reason I ask is because I seen this....
http://www.a4mods.com/pics/boosleak/IMG_0680.JPG


....and I am going to be installing a FT TIP today and I didn't see the "PCV valve" on my OEM TIP

[adjustmentpolic]

The part number needs to match or at least be compatible. For example, I just replaced my remote and reprogrammed it a couple days ago. All part numbers matched besides the last letter when I was shopping. Was looking for a couple days, and I finally found one with the same number (even though other remotes I came across ads stated they were compatible with my car, they really aren't). Works like a charm as this confirmed my old remote was shot. I own a B5, but the same principle should apply. Not all part numbers for remotes are compatible.

New key, not working: TEMIC-MANILA 315MHz 8zo 837 231 F / 1993 A6
__________________________________________________ 26 / 03
Old key___________: TEMIC-MANILA 315MHz 8zo 837 231 F / 1993 A4
__________________________________________________ 43 / 02

So im guessing the difference in A6 to A4 makes a difference here? Even though the numbers are all the same... Damn

[Seerlah]

Those should be compatible.

[ZipMeUpJ]

what is this sound?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ly3oRGdgHTI&feature=youtu.be

belt are less than 4k old. sqeaks at cold start up under electric load, when i downshift too far, and other random random times. squeaks longer the colder it is outside

tensioner or a pulley??

[Seerlah]

None. That is still the PRV and that is the B5 model. You don't need to go by the pic. Just place in the FT TIP how yours currently is.


^^

Thanks, now what years have the PCV on the TIP? Reason I ask is because I seen this....
http://www.a4mods.com/pics/boosleak/IMG_0680.JPG


....and I am going to be installing a FT TIP today and I didn't see the "PCV valve" on my OEM TIP

[old guy]

None. That is still the PRV and that is the B5 model. You don't need to go by the pic. Just place in the FT TIP how yours currently is.

Actually that's a 2002 B6. It moved to the back of the valve cover in 2003.