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old guy
02-22-2016, 03:55 PM
Thank you just wanted to make sure, thats what I thought. What is the difference between G12, G12 ++ and G13? I have an 02 3.0L

was looking at this Premixed coolant (http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=J4D2001%2D1A). Is this what I need?

All of the G12 and G13 series are compatible with each other. So is the premixed Ravenol in your link. Clicky click (https://www.ecstuning.com/MonthlyFlyers/#?/flyers/2013/january/what-coolant-should-i-use-vw-or-audi/)®

https://www.searchlock.com/mirror/p?e=1&u=http://www.ecstuning.com/flyers/2013/january/what-coolant-should-i-use-vw-or-audi/Coolant-Compatibility-Chart.jpg

The Evans coolant is pretty intriguing. The plus side is that it doesn't contain any water so it doesn't expand with temperature and the cooling system pressure remains neutral and constant. The downside is that it is very expensive and totally incompatible with "standard" coolants. Which means that you have to totally evacuate and dry out your entire cooling system before adding the Evans stuff.

Willėnskraft
02-23-2016, 07:54 AM
For our B6, do the airbags expire or need to be replaced?

fR3ZNO
02-23-2016, 08:20 PM
For our B6, do the airbags expire or need to be replaced?

Technically they do, but it's not economically feasible by the time they "need" to be replaced. I believe there's a sticker near the striker of the driver door. It says something along the lines of "airbags must be replaced after 7(?) years"

jacobsen
02-23-2016, 08:38 PM
All of the G12 and G13 series are compatible with each other. So is the premixed Ravenol in your link. Clicky click (https://www.ecstuning.com/MonthlyFlyers/#?/flyers/2013/january/what-coolant-should-i-use-vw-or-audi/)®

https://www.searchlock.com/mirror/p?e=1&u=http://www.ecstuning.com/flyers/2013/january/what-coolant-should-i-use-vw-or-audi/Coolant-Compatibility-Chart.jpg

The Evans coolant is pretty intriguing. The plus side is that it doesn't contain any water so it doesn't expand with temperature and the cooling system pressure remains neutral and constant. The downside is that it is very expensive and totally incompatible with "standard" coolants. Which means that you have to totally evacuate and dry out your entire cooling system before adding the Evans stuff.
35 bucks per gallon isn't too bad... considering all the benefits I think? http://m.ebay.com/itm/Evans-Coolant-Prep-Fluid-1-Gallon-/400858321765?nav=SEARCH

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mprivi
02-24-2016, 08:08 AM
All of the G12 and G13 series are compatible with each other. So is the premixed Ravenol in your link. Clicky click (https://www.ecstuning.com/MonthlyFlyers/#?/flyers/2013/january/what-coolant-should-i-use-vw-or-audi/)®

https://www.searchlock.com/mirror/p?e=1&u=http://www.ecstuning.com/flyers/2013/january/what-coolant-should-i-use-vw-or-audi/Coolant-Compatibility-Chart.jpg

The Evans coolant is pretty intriguing. The plus side is that it doesn't contain any water so it doesn't expand with temperature and the cooling system pressure remains neutral and constant. The downside is that it is very expensive and totally incompatible with "standard" coolants. Which means that you have to totally evacuate and dry out your entire cooling system before adding the Evans stuff.


I would only need a gallon of pure antifreeze and a gallon of distilled water to mix, correct? The dealer seems to be priced reasonable on the gallon of pure g12 so I was going to go today. Saves on shipping and I'll just have to mix myself. Sorry for the questions I never refilled my entire system, trying to make sure I purchase enough.

old guy
02-24-2016, 08:15 AM
That is correct. Mix the antifreeze 50/50 with distilled water.

jms2211
02-24-2016, 08:51 AM
Hey all,

I want to test my compression in my 2005 B6 A4 3.0, does anyone know what a good psi per cylinder should be for this test?

fR3ZNO
02-27-2016, 02:58 PM
Is the passenger side dash trim piece supposed to snap into place? I have both screws in place but the section above the glovebox handle likes to flex when I push on it with my hand. I don't remember the fishscale trim doing that.


Hey all,

I want to test my compression in my 2005 B6 A4 3.0, does anyone know what a good psi per cylinder should be for this test?

Let me check my Bentley manual.

egovreau
02-27-2016, 03:59 PM
I would only need a gallon of pure antifreeze and a gallon of distilled water to mix, correct? The dealer seems to be priced reasonable on the gallon of pure g12 so I was going to go today. Saves on shipping and I'll just have to mix myself. Sorry for the questions I never refilled my entire system, trying to make sure I purchase enough.
I have a gallon pitcher that had quart graduations on it, so I have premixed coolant on hand if I need it.

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cyclingcat
02-28-2016, 11:02 AM
I bought my 02 Audi A4 at a car auction with 140k miles for 2k. I don't know any of the cars history and I've driven the car for a year now and the only thing I've done is an oil change. Luckily so far I have not had a single mechanical problem, and I haven't had a mechanic even look at the car to see if anything is wrong. I don't mind keeping the car, but I also don't want to spend a ton of money for maintenance and it seems like I would have to spend half of what I paid for the car for any performance upgrades which doesn't sound too appealing. I guess I'm riding the wave of ignorance until my car shits the bed or something. Well my question is, is there any cheap maintenance that I should do? Another question is, are there any performance upgrades that I can do that won't break the bank? A local tuner told me that he can put an APR stage 1 tune onto my car for $500 but seeing as I have no idea how the engine's health is, I should probably pass on that.

fR3ZNO
02-28-2016, 11:05 AM
Some cheap maintenance would stuff like fuel filter, possibly DV if it's bad, and air filter. I would skip on a new APR tune for a car you got so cheap. Keep your eyes peeled for a spare ECU with a tune on the classifieds. Also, you could do a compression test and/or leak down to get an idea of the engine health. 140k isn't a lot of miles. It's not like an APR tune will break anything. My car had an APR tune put on by the PO when it was a year or two old (it's an '04) and it's been fine for me. I bought it with 136k miles about a year ago now. So that's about 10 years on a tune with no ill effects. [emoji1360]

B5_t
03-03-2016, 05:47 PM
More details ? [eek]😳😳😳

slark
03-03-2016, 06:37 PM
Ls swap???? Single turbo??? Rwd??? The world needs answers!


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customa4
03-08-2016, 05:57 AM
Girlfriend took my keys to work with her this morning. Now I'm stuck with trying to get to work with a valet key. I start the car and it shuts off and the immobilizer starts flashing. Code is 17978-Engine start blocked by immobilizer. Is there any way to get this valet key to work without another key present? I have access to VCDS but can't find a sync procedure for the valet key.

SJorge3442
03-08-2016, 06:06 AM
Girlfriend took my keys to work with her this morning. Now I'm stuck with trying to get to work with a valet key. I start the car and it shuts off and the immobilizer starts flashing. Code is 17978-Engine start blocked by immobilizer. Is there any way to get this valet key to work without another key present? I have access to VCDS but can't find a sync procedure for the valet key.

Nope. Unless you can quickly defeat your own IMMO in the next few minutes.

customa4
03-08-2016, 06:21 AM
Meh... Just getting a ride to go get my keys. Wish I knew this valet key wasn't programmed. I'll get it setup later on so this doesn't happen again.

diuvic
03-08-2016, 06:22 AM
Meh... Just getting a ride to go get my keys. Wish I knew this valet key wasn't programmed. I'll get it setup later on so this doesn't happen again.

What does your key look like? I'm currently using this key because I lost my key fob when I returned from the bars this weekend. I know my key fob is in my house but I just can't seem to find it. Is this not the valet key?

http://i.imgur.com/sMwGVLS.jpg

customa4
03-08-2016, 08:05 AM
Yes, that's the one that was setting off the immobilizer. I ended up just getting the regular fob. I'll probably try and program the valet key later.

diuvic
03-08-2016, 09:16 AM
Yes, that's the one that was setting off the immobilizer. I ended up just getting the regular fob. I'll probably try and program the valet key later.

Huh. You would think the valet key with an immobilizer chip wouldn't be forgotten by the car's computer. Especially since it should definitely be the same id that your other fobs use. Right?

Unless that immobilizer chip is somehow not working anymore. Hmm...


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customa4
03-08-2016, 09:27 AM
Huh. You would think the valet key with an immobilizer chip wouldn't be forgotten by the car's computer. Especially since it should definitely be the same id that your other fobs use. Right?

Unless that immobilizer chip is somehow not working anymore. Hmm...


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I never tried to use the valet key before that I can remember. Only thing that comes to mind is it was never paired to the car in the first place. I got it from the PO and I never got around to needing it so didn't try it. Car came with 2 fobs and 1 valet. The key got snapped off of one of the fobs so I need to have that fixed and I'll be back to 2 fobs and 1 valet.

K04-B6
03-08-2016, 11:16 AM
Is it safe to use Radiator hose for my DV and is it safe to use Fuel line hose for my N75 Valve? Reason I ask is because I live in Canada where it seems pretty difficult finding a Canadian supplier for silicone hose. With today's exchange rate buying silicone hoses from the states ends up costing me way to much, especially that the shipping ends up being more then the parts I order. I would go 1'' coolant hose for my DV ''Forge P008'' and for the N75 I would go 3/16.

Any input is appreciated!

MurkyRivers_A4
03-08-2016, 11:24 AM
Is it safe to use Radiator hose for my DV and is it safe to use Fuel line hose for my N75 Valve? Reason I ask is because I live in Canada where it seems pretty difficult finding a Canadian supplier for silicone hose. With today's exchange rate buying silicone hoses from the states ends up costing me way to much, especially that the shipping ends up being more then the parts I order. I would go 1'' coolant hose for my DV ''Forge P008'' and for the N75 I would go 3/16.

Any input is appreciated!

Yes you can. You just pushing air through.

If it were oil/coolant/fuel then I would be worried. You will be fine.

AutoMax
03-08-2016, 11:49 AM
Ls swap???? Single turbo??? Rwd??? The world needs answers!


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Saw on fb. Ls, single turbo. Rwd using a 6 speed awd trans welded center dif. Can be awd if he uses the front axles

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audi_nightrider
03-08-2016, 05:30 PM
What option do I have regarding my rear ST coilover springs? I'm running aggressive wheels ET 29(Stock A5 wheels) 245 width tires. I want the tires to stop rubbing on my rear fenders, is ST springs too soft??? What other springs like hypercos can I replaced it with?

Luxus Panzer
03-08-2016, 05:47 PM
Is it safe to use Radiator hose for my DV and is it safe to use Fuel line hose for my N75 Valve? Reason I ask is because I live in Canada where it seems pretty difficult finding a Canadian supplier for silicone hose. With today's exchange rate buying silicone hoses from the states ends up costing me way to much, especially that the shipping ends up being more then the parts I order. I would go 1'' coolant hose for my DV ''Forge P008'' and for the N75 I would go 3/16.

Any input is appreciated!

You will be fine.

BTW, I am in the NCR as well ;)

cschuster
03-08-2016, 06:51 PM
What option do I have regarding my rear ST coilover springs? I'm running aggressive wheels ET 29(Stock A5 wheels) 245 width tires. I want the tires to stop rubbing on my rear fenders, is ST springs too soft??? What other springs like hypercos can I replaced it with?

Stiffer springs, raise the car, remove the fender liner, or roll the fenders if you have to. Something's got to give. The springs are matched to the shock though, so different ones may not ride as well.

K04-B6
03-08-2016, 08:07 PM
You will be fine.

BTW, I am in the NCR as well ;)

sounds good, I'll have to go pick up some hose. Oh you do? I'm here for another month then I'm heading out to the east coast

mprivi
03-09-2016, 07:49 AM
Will B7 2.0t stock sport suspension fit a B6 3.0l? See some used ones on here and looking for a drop. Nothing crazy maybe 25" from road.


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diuvic
03-09-2016, 08:29 AM
Will B7 2.0t stock sport suspension fit a B6 3.0l? See some used ones on here and looking for a drop. Nothing crazy maybe 25" from road.


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What year is your 3.0? If I remember correctly, the 2002 models are extra low with sport suspension compared to other models.


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mprivi
03-09-2016, 08:54 AM
What year is your 3.0? If I remember correctly, the 2002 models are extra low with sport suspension compared to other models.


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Its an 02 but It doesn't have the sports suspension. its 4x4 hahah...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j192/trikstir99/photo.jpg (http://s80.photobucket.com/user/trikstir99/media/photo.jpg.html)

audi_nightrider
03-10-2016, 09:29 AM
Stiffer springs, raise the car, remove the fender liner, or roll the fenders if you have to. Something's got to give. The springs are matched to the shock though, so different ones may not ride as well.

Yah....our rear fenders cannot be rolled anymore. It can but with a chance of it warping and looking all wavy. Hmmmmwide body conversion soon? Lol.

And all solution points out to stiffer springs. Still cheaper than getting a new set of tires and wheels. I love how it looks so aggressive.

cschuster
03-10-2016, 09:41 AM
Its an 02 but It doesn't have the sports suspension. its 4x4 hahah...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j192/trikstir99/photo.jpg (http://s80.photobucket.com/user/trikstir99/media/photo.jpg.html)

Haha, it is comfortable though. I think most people here will tell you to go with koni yellows, fsd's, or coilovers. Your shocks are probably well on their way out, if not already blown. All the used suspensions, even from B7's, are still up there in mileage. I went with ST's at a ride height of 25.5ish - its stiffer, but still comfortable. There is usually a spring $100 rebate anyways, so the near future could be a good time to buy.

mprivi
03-10-2016, 10:00 AM
Haha, it is comfortable though. I think most people here will tell you to go with koni yellows, fsd's, or coilovers. Your shocks are probably well on their way out, if not already blown. All the used suspensions, even from B7's, are still up there in mileage. I went with ST's at a ride height of 25.5ish - its stiffer, but still comfortable. There is usually a spring $100 rebate anyways, so the near future could be a good time to buy.

Yea my suspension has 94k on it. Mechanic says those look good still but I'm in need of control arms. So was looking to maybe do it all at once. I was looking at ST, Soloworks and Streetedge.

nitronutz
03-10-2016, 02:11 PM
How much tire pressure to run on my 02 a4? 235/40/18 et 35

fR3ZNO
03-10-2016, 02:41 PM
I like to run 38 psi on low profile sidewalls like that.

old guy
03-10-2016, 03:57 PM
How much tire pressure to run on my 02 a4? 235/40/18 et 35

There isn't one set answer. Lots of factors to consider. What is your priority? Maximum tire life? Best handling? Best blend of both?

FTG height and camber all play a part in your decision. Unless you have adjustable upper control arms your camber will increase as your FTG decreases. As you increase your camber your inner edge tire wear will increase. Higher pressures will give you a little crisper handling but you will pay a price with inner edge tire wear.

Lower pressures, raised toe adjustment and minimal toe-in will offset most of the inner edge wear as you decrease your FTG height.

I am running a 235/40/18 with a FTG height of 25" and ~ 1.5° of camber. I'm running minimal toe-in and raised toe at the adjustment limit. For me 34 psi seems to be the best balance for wear and handling.

As you increase your FTG you can increase the tire pressures without paying as high of a price in tire wear.

amgraham
03-10-2016, 08:37 PM
Its an 02 but It doesn't have the sports suspension. its 4x4 hahah...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j192/trikstir99/photo.jpg (http://s80.photobucket.com/user/trikstir99/media/photo.jpg.html)

I didn't realize there was such a difference. Here's my 02 Sport, all stock:
http://i.imgur.com/ZR6rkR8.jpg

jaydeff
03-11-2016, 04:42 PM
Does anyone have experience with BECK/ARNLEY parking brake cables from RockAuto? They're only $23.79 each: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1998966&cc=1379594

I'd go with Vaico from ECS for $29.57 each but it says they'll ship by the 30th which is kind of longer than I'd like to wait.

fR3ZNO
03-11-2016, 04:53 PM
Cables are fairly simple, so I think you'd be fine going with either one.

Schwebe
03-11-2016, 05:24 PM
I believe my current turbo is going out (horrible noises) I have all the supporting mods to go with a bigger turbo but as a college student I am trying to keep costs down. I know everyone is against k04s because they do not offer much of an upgrade but if I buy a k04 15 that needs a rebuild how much am I looking at? Any forum members do rebuilds?

fR3ZNO
03-11-2016, 05:28 PM
Well it depends. My KO3 needed replacement and I wanted to do a KO4. Even with ones that need a rebuild people were asking $400~. Factor in the cost of the rebuild, tune and proper injectors if you don't have them already, it wasn't worth the money. I would recommend just grabbing a cheap used KO3 and save up for a BT.

Schwebe
03-11-2016, 05:35 PM
I have injectors and a tune already, it would just be 150 for the next step up on the tune. I'm talking to a guy on Craigslist right now who has a blown k04 15 for 20 bucks.

fR3ZNO
03-11-2016, 05:37 PM
I guess your situation is different. Just need a CHRA then I guess.

jaydeff
03-11-2016, 05:39 PM
Cables are fairly simple, so I think you'd be fine going with either one.

Yeah that's what I was thinking. It should be hard to mess up a cable. I guess I'll pick up a set and try em out.

Schwebe
03-11-2016, 05:51 PM
I think the turbo actually comes with a CHRA?

mprivi
03-11-2016, 06:23 PM
I didn't realize there was such a difference. Here's my 02 Sport, all stock:
http://i.imgur.com/ZR6rkR8.jpg

The 02 sport package is perfect. I think it has the same clearance as my wife's Durango hahah


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nitronutz
03-12-2016, 05:57 AM
The 02 sport package is perfect. I think it has the same clearance as my wife's Durango hahah


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Yea but its no where as ugly as a Durango...a Dodge product as that...lol

mprivi
03-12-2016, 06:00 AM
Yea but its no where as ugly as a Durango...a Dodge product as that...lol

Actually the new RT is pretty sweet I needed more room for the kids hahah and I wasn't getting a mini van


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diuvic
03-12-2016, 06:06 AM
Does anyone have experience with BECK/ARNLEY parking brake cables from RockAuto? They're only $23.79 each: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1998966&cc=1379594

I'd go with Vaico from ECS for $29.57 each but it says they'll ship by the 30th which is kind of longer than I'd like to wait.

Woah! Cheap cheap! I'm assuming the parking brake cables are the same on the 1.8 and the 3.0 right? I need to replace these as soon as it gets warm. I have been driving with a non functional parking brake for 3 years now.


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nitronutz
03-12-2016, 06:24 AM
Actually the new RT is pretty sweet I needed more room for the kids hahah and I wasn't getting a mini van


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Come on dog. By the time u get a new durango u could've got a ised q7. To each is their own I guess.

mprivi
03-12-2016, 06:28 AM
Come on dog. By the time u get a new durango u could've got a ised q7. To each is their own I guess.

I priced Q7 crazy money optioned the same ... Plus my wife has to feel comfortable driving it so she choose the Durango believe me I have been vw Audi for years


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jaydeff
03-12-2016, 09:59 AM
Woah! Cheap cheap! I'm assuming the parking brake cables are the same on the 1.8 and the 3.0 right? I need to replace these as soon as it gets warm. I have been driving with a non functional parking brake for 3 years now.


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Yeah they're the same for 1.8 and 3.0.

cyclingcat
03-12-2016, 03:50 PM
Some cheap maintenance would stuff like fuel filter, possibly DV if it's bad, and air filter. I would skip on a new APR tune for a car you got so cheap. Keep your eyes peeled for a spare ECU with a tune on the classifieds. Also, you could do a compression test and/or leak down to get an idea of the engine health. 140k isn't a lot of miles. It's not like an APR tune will break anything. My car had an APR tune put on by the PO when it was a year or two old (it's an '04) and it's been fine for me. I bought it with 136k miles about a year ago now. So that's about 10 years on a tune with no ill effects. [emoji1360]

Thanks for the reply. I will call around to see if I can get my car inspected by a mechanic and do a compression test/leak down. I have a new DV which I plan to install soon and I'll look into getting a new fuel filter and air filter. Thanks again! Instead of spending money modding this car I'll save up money to buy another audi.

areknee
03-12-2016, 05:51 PM
What kind of front sway bar belongs on a B6?

I noticed similar model cars have a hole in them, on a flat end. Slide the bolt in, and a nut on the other side.
Even ETKA shows the B6 as having this, IIRC.

But mine, instead, as a threaded hole literally in the sway bar tubing, for a bolt to screw into (once it passes through end-link hole). Just wanna make sure this is all correct.



Manual has a single mount at the center.
Automatic uses two small diamond-shaped ones, on each side of the subframe. It might be hard to notice them, they're probably also covered by small removable heat-shields from the top.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/FastA4Turbo/audi/IMG_0324.jpg




Can not for the life of me find these diamond shaped mounts. I got the 6 stretch bolts, 3 on each side of the car but the sub frame still has not lowered much.

Lornnn
03-13-2016, 10:54 AM
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Audi_B6_A4/06-WATER-Coolant_Expansion_Tank_Replacement/images_small/pic07.jpg

What is this connector called / for? The wire on mine just broke and I can't find any mention of it in the Bentley service manual.
The website where the image is hosted just calls it "the wiring connection on the bottom of the tank."

jacobsen
03-13-2016, 10:55 AM
Coolant level sensor

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Lornnn
03-13-2016, 10:56 AM
Coolant level sensor

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Would this broken connection cause hard starts with a warm engine?

fR3ZNO
03-13-2016, 10:57 AM
Would this broken connection cause hard starts with a warm engine?

No. Broken wire will just cause a warning for low coolant on the dash.

jacobsen
03-13-2016, 10:57 AM
Would this broken connection cause hard starts with a warm engine?
No, it only detects the level of the coolant.

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Lornnn
03-13-2016, 11:03 AM
Strange. I'm getting no warning on the dash or CEL.

Thanks for the quick response, guys.

jacobsen
03-13-2016, 12:46 PM
Strange. I'm getting no warning on the dash or CEL.

Thanks for the quick response, guys.
If one of the wires broke you should be.

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areknee
03-14-2016, 10:08 PM
Could anyone point me to where I could try to find the transmission mounts on my sub frame? I have been using this picture for reference http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/28/uhaje4ep.jpg and this is a shot of my passenger side http://i.imgur.com/o6yY1Cc.png

jacobsen
03-15-2016, 10:20 AM
Undo that Bolt you see, that big one holding those two pieces together. Before you drop the subframe you must port the motor from above.

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diuvic
03-15-2016, 12:38 PM
There's a fuse I replaced yesterday that said "Fuse box illumination" on the fuse diagram. Anybody know what this is for? It's a 5A fuse. Number 1 or 2 on the fuse box.


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areknee
03-15-2016, 06:22 PM
Undo that Bolt you see, that big one holding those two pieces together. Before you drop the subframe you must port the motor from above.

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I thought that bolt was not supposed to be removed, the engine is supported right now but I just can't seem to find those tran mounts.

Looking around more I think my car looks something more like http://www.purems.com/images/my_storage/mountlocation.jpg but my car is automatic.

jacobsen
03-16-2016, 03:40 AM
I've got a 5 gear mine looks like that with the gull wing mount. Those 2 on the sides are interlocking the transmission mounts and subframe.

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cyclingcat
03-16-2016, 12:59 PM
After listening to you guys and recommending an air filter replacement, I did it this afternoon and found this:

http://i.imgur.com/BfcuMO2.jpg

How can something like this happen?

SJorge3442
03-16-2016, 01:04 PM
After listening to you guys and recommending an air filter replacement, I did it this afternoon and found this:

http://i.imgur.com/BfcuMO2.jpg

How can something like this happen?

1 word. Mice. Did you car remained park for an extended period of time?

old guy
03-16-2016, 01:14 PM
1 word. Mice. Did you car remained park for an extended period of time?
And a missing snow screen.

cyclingcat
03-16-2016, 01:32 PM
1 word. Mice. Did you car remained park for an extended period of time?

Not sure, like I said earlier in this thread, I bought the car in an auction last year and I don't know any of the cars history. Luckily I haven't had a single problem after driving it for a year now. I figured I might as well do some maintenance, so I started with the air filter and low and behold I find some kind of mice nest lol. Should I invest in a snow screen?

Let it snow
03-16-2016, 01:32 PM
After listening to you guys and recommending an air filter replacement, I did it this afternoon and found this:

http://i.imgur.com/BfcuMO2.jpg

How can something like this happen?

Didn't you know mice love to travel in style? Meaning our Audi intake.

Let it snow
03-16-2016, 01:37 PM
Not sure, like I said earlier in this thread, I bought the car in an auction last year and I don't know any of the cars history. Luckily I haven't had a single problem after driving it for a year now. I figured I might as well do some maintenance, so I started with the air filter and low and behold I find some kind of mice nest lol. Should I invest in a snow screen?

They will chew right through the snow screen too. For some reason they stop at the filter. They call that spot home.

old guy
03-18-2016, 01:37 AM
Nope.

bmartin247
03-18-2016, 02:48 PM
So I have a 3.slow and I'm going with the jhm catless downpipes and 2.5 custom exhaust back. I'm debating getting a custom tune or not. Would I even gain any power from it? Or should I just get one to adjust the airflow from the exhaust?

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SJorge3442
03-18-2016, 03:08 PM
So I have a 3.slow and I'm going with the jhm catless downpipes and 2.5 custom exhaust back. I'm debating getting a custom tune or not. Would I even gain any power from it? Or should I just get one to adjust the airflow from the exhaust?

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Get the tune! People who have the tune love it. Pair that with the downpipes and you got yourself a fun little car

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bmartin247
03-18-2016, 03:28 PM
I don't think I'll get the jhm tune though, since I figure the tune is set up to work good with any 3.0, while with the extra exhaust I feel I'd be better off getting a custom tune

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fR3ZNO
03-19-2016, 01:30 PM
I'm pretty sure they just pop out of the mount. Why do you need to replace yours? Have they compacted or something?

But to answer your other question, I don't see a replacement part for just the rubber mount part.

fR3ZNO
03-19-2016, 02:04 PM
Now that you mention it, it does look like the bottom perch pad.

I would guess they don't replace this mount for the exact reason you mentioned. It's not available affordably.

From what I can tell you could pop the rubber pad off with some silicone spray and a pry bar or large screwdriver. Hard part would slipping it back on over the flared section.

I have some spare mounts if you're interested. I believe the rubber is still good, hasn't compacted.

GOODBYNAAIR
03-19-2016, 05:58 PM
Hey guys tell me if i'm wrong I had a 3.0 for some time and it did not have sludge problems and as far as I know any car could have sludge problems if you don't take care of them. I also believe that any motor in any car if taken car of will not sludge or have very little. My text is in red the others text is yellow and seems like all his cars just did not get taken car of??!

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/goodbynaair/CAR/this%20guy1_zps2tog09pd.jpg (http://s63.photobucket.com/user/goodbynaair/media/CAR/this%20guy1_zps2tog09pd.jpg.html)

SJorge3442
03-20-2016, 07:51 AM
Hey guys tell me if i'm wrong I had a 3.0 for some time and it did not have sludge problems and as far as I know any car could have sludge problems if you don't take care of them. I also believe that any motor in any car if taken car of will not sludge or have very little. My text is in red the others text is yellow and seems like all his cars just did not get taken car of??!

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/goodbynaair/CAR/this%20guy1_zps2tog09pd.jpg (http://s63.photobucket.com/user/goodbynaair/media/CAR/this%20guy1_zps2tog09pd.jpg.html)
3.0 really isn't prone to the sludge issues of the 3.0. Not sure where this guy is coming from or if he's talking out his ass.

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SJorge3442
03-20-2016, 07:53 AM
I don't think I'll get the jhm tune though, since I figure the tune is set up to work good with any 3.0, while with the extra exhaust I feel I'd be better off getting a custom tune

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Im not sure where you're gonna find a custom tune. There's plenty of people on here who have gotten the JHM tune and love it. The DAMOS file for the 3.0 was just released to the "public" by Zimbu (member here) and he actually released a tune of his own. I've been looking to test it out, I just haven't had the opportunity to load it to my ecu. Per some logs, its looking like his tune has similar characteristics as the JHM tune.

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fR3ZNO
03-20-2016, 07:58 AM
Unless some are cracked from the factory? Or I installed the wrong bump stops? I thought I got sport ones, in accordance to sport suspension. Didn't have this problem back on non-sport.
Or maybe I should've taken the extra time during install, to trim the bump stop exterior down, so it fits INTO that cup, without breaking it? As you can see it looks wider (the bump stop OD, vs. metal circle)

The bumpstop is supposed to pop into that metal retainer. Are you using OEM bump stops? I can't imagine the soft foam would be able to crack the aluminum like that.

bmartin247
03-20-2016, 09:00 AM
Im not sure where you're gonna find a custom tune. There's plenty of people on here who have gotten the JHM tune and love it. The DAMOS file for the 3.0 was just released to the "public" by Zimbu (member here) and he actually released a tune of his own. I've been looking to test it out, I just haven't had the opportunity to load it to my ecu. Per some logs, its looking like his tune has similar characteristics as the JHM tune.

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I'm in Denver, and we got a shop that all my friends go to and I talked to him and said he could definetly pull more than 20hp. I'll post the dyno chart differences, but its going to take me a almost a month to get in

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fR3ZNO
03-20-2016, 12:17 PM
Are you saying its supposed to be set into that retainer position and left there, rather than slid onto the top of the shock?
The "foam" isn't that soft, I think it was more of a high durometer rubber. I believe it's OEM, I'll check.

Yep. It's the same way for the rears too. The bump stop pops into the top shock mount.

ZERO FRAME GRAB
03-21-2016, 11:40 AM
I want to do a custom plate mount for my rear plate on my B6 avant, when I look it up I keep finding the plate mounts for the front tow hook. Does anyone know the name of the rear tow loop (what I call it) or can share a link to where I can buy a mount for it. Just purchased a eurohatch so I need somewhere to put my regular plate

SJorge3442
03-21-2016, 11:49 AM
I'm in Denver, and we got a shop that all my friends go to and I talked to him and said he could definetly pull more than 20hp. I'll post the dyno chart differences, but its going to take me a almost a month to get in

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

I don't want to burst your bubble, but the NA 3.0 is not going to see a >10% increase in bhp from a tune alone, especially from someone who hasn't dealt with this motor before. Not to mention the altitude that's working against you. If this guy is able to squeeze some more power out, awesome(unlikely), but I truly think you'll be better off with the JHM tune. It takes hours to manipulate a tune file and to perform pulls in order to have the data justified to make the changes. Assuming $100/hr, you'll barely have time to pull the tune from the ECU and even begin to analyze the maps (analyze, not alter) before you reach the $500 price point of the JHM tune. Now if this guy has a base file already for the 3.0, which I doubt, then maybe you'd see some improvements. I'm not trying to sound harsh, I'm just trying to inform you of what is likely the best for you and your car.

mprivi
03-23-2016, 10:42 AM
Looking at Q5 18's will they fit my B6, I'm concerned about the Et39.... 18x8.5 Et39 tire size r 235/40/18 hub Centre ring go to 57.1

fR3ZNO
03-23-2016, 03:25 PM
ET39 will be fine especially with the stock tire size.

fR3ZNO
03-24-2016, 12:48 PM
I want some opinions, currently I have B5 S4 brakes in the front and stock B6 rears. So, there is more bias to the front considering the front overall piston area is larger.

I will be installing B6 S4 rears soon, which will create more rear bias. I was curious how you guys think the balance will be front to rear?

I was thinking if it would be advantageous to swap to B6 S4 fronts. Of course, from the factory the bias was determined to be good for a stock car, but keep in mind this was with a much heavier V8 in the front compared to a 1.8T.

jacobsen
03-24-2016, 12:53 PM
I want some opinions, currently I have B5 S4 brakes in the front and stock B6 rears. So, there is more bias to the front considering the front overall piston area is larger.

I will be installing B6 S4 rears soon, which will create more rear bias. I was curious how you guys think the balance will be front to rear?

I was thinking if it would be advantageous to swap to B6 S4 fronts. Of course, from the factory the bias was determined to be good for a stock car, but keep in mind this was with a much heavier V8 in the front compared to a 1.8T.
B5 S4 front will be fine with B7 S4 rear.

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fR3ZNO
03-24-2016, 01:03 PM
Thanks, I was thinking the S4 rears might be too large compared to the B5 S4 fronts. The S4 front rotor size is 321mm versus the rear rotor size which is 300mm. I understand there are other variables to consider but still.

jacobsen
03-24-2016, 01:19 PM
It's a total upgrade. I have b7 s4 fronts and rears, it cost me almost nothing on rock auto.

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fR3ZNO
03-24-2016, 01:20 PM
Did you buy the calipers on RockAuto?
Otherwise, yeah it's quite affordable.

jacobsen
03-24-2016, 01:41 PM
Did you buy the calipers on RockAuto?
Otherwise, yeah it's quite affordable.
I got stainless steel lines front and rear, Centric drilled rotors, carbon fiber ceramic pads, and calipers call on RockAuto. I got motul RBF 660 on eBay for 25 bucks schwaben power bleeder for only 40 bucks

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fR3ZNO
03-24-2016, 01:44 PM
Gotcha. The front calipers are pretty cheap on RockAuto. I think I threw together a cart for front brakes (calipers, rotors and pads) for about $380 shipped.

jacobsen
03-24-2016, 01:44 PM
The stock front calipers have a $95 core and the rears have something like an $80 core so it's extremely cheap to upgrade the worst part is doing the work. A tip for the rear is is to remove the caliper is from the brackets before you try to remove the brackets. I did one with the caliper on and man was that a nightmare. I was even able to use the brake pad wear sensor brackets by doubling them up with the ABS sensor bracket. The break-in period is long , break them in as slow as possible and they will be better.

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tchuck
03-30-2016, 08:18 PM
... Is it even possible? I recall one member did it.
...

Are you asking whether or not your memory is reliable?

fR3ZNO
03-31-2016, 09:38 AM
How hard is a door-shell swap? Is it even possible? I recall one member did it.
I'm researching it now.
Is the hardest part switching over your lock/key mechanism, so you can still use your same car key(s)?

I'm guessing everything comes apart. Torx screws? Rivets?

I'm curious about this as well. I have a door shell I am looking to swap, except it is the driver rear door. I don't have to worry about the locks. I need to swap the window frame over since the complete door was from a sedan and I have an Avant. I have done a rear door shell swap on a B5 Avant, the window frame comes out easily with a few torx screws. I would imagine the B6 door is similar. I have the door sitting in my basement, I haven't had time to look at it too closely to see how it comes apart. FWIW the door shell is a separate part number on parts diagrams, so I am sure it comes apart somehow.

B6chrissss
04-01-2016, 03:11 PM
Is the nipple on the condenser where you connect the the high pressure sensor suppose to leak when you take off the sensor?


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old guy
04-01-2016, 04:56 PM
Is the nipple on the condenser where you connect the the high pressure sensor suppose to leak when you take off the sensor?




No it should not leak. There is a shrader valve that should contain the refrigerant when replacing the switch.

B6chrissss
04-01-2016, 08:37 PM
No it should not leak. There is a shrader valve that should contain the refrigerant when replacing the switch.

When I remove the switch a little bit of refrigerant oil comes out, the system barley has freon in it because I swapped out the old that was damaged, with a used oem one. But I'm trying make the compressor kick on to charge the system but the faulty g65 switch won't let it kick on.

Zach.russell.13
04-02-2016, 12:06 AM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160402/f43b0216ef91736f9ea1ea6f2bc59a91.jpg what would be the best looking lugs for these wheels for my Moro blue b6? Was hoping to stay the same color as the wheel? Idk how dumb this question is this is my first time buying wheels for my car & I didn't know that lug nut styles/company's played a pretty big role in how your wheels look in the end result? (must be conical seat lug nuts)

Willėnskraft
04-03-2016, 08:26 AM
^Lug nuts? Did you do a conversion?

Boost92
04-03-2016, 08:40 AM
When I remove the switch a little bit of refrigerant oil comes out, the system barley has freon in it because I swapped out the old that was damaged, with a used oem one. But I'm trying make the compressor kick on to charge the system but the faulty g65 switch won't let it kick on.


Maybe the shrader valve is leaking. Have changed a few because they have been leaking. You could make vackum on the system with a vackum pump, and then fill it upp [up]

B6chrissss
04-03-2016, 10:11 AM
Maybe the shrader valve is leaking. Have changed a few because they have been leaking. You could make vackum on the system with a vackum pump, and then fill it upp [up]

I swapped it out with the old for my other condenser. It was just a leaky shrader valve.

ckimble
04-03-2016, 06:25 PM
Will a set of OEM Avant roof racks from a B7 fit the B6 rails?

G.AUDI
04-04-2016, 10:22 AM
Looking to do a multi-function steering wheel retrofit. I was to buy a clock spring and airbag harness from a car that was previously in an accident where the air bag deployed, would I still be able to use those parts ? Specifically , can I reuse the airbag harness onto the new steering wheel and airbag or is it a one time use only and might not work in the event of another accident?

RDA990
04-04-2016, 12:40 PM
What's are good break pads and rotors for a daily driver? One of the B6s breaks are done.

Checking FCPeuro and Rockauto I see a lot of brands. Meyle and Brembo on FCP. Power Stop and Centric on RockAuto.

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mprivi
04-04-2016, 01:02 PM
I have an 02 3.0L Automatic Quattro at what interval do you guys change your transmission fluid? Also is it a DIY job? Car has 94k and it probably has never been done.

fR3ZNO
04-04-2016, 01:04 PM
What's are good break pads and rotors for a daily driver? One of the B6s breaks are done.

Checking FCPeuro and Rockauto I see a lot of brands. Meyle and Brembo on FCP. Power Stop and Centric on RockAuto.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

The power stop kits on RockAuto are great for a DD.

Depending on when you buy, rebates are available and a 5% off discount code is always on at RockAuto.

daught
04-04-2016, 07:04 PM
Are the fog lights lenses glass? I am pretty sure they chip like glass when I tried to pry them.

ckimble
04-07-2016, 07:21 PM
Anyone have any experience with the Gates Racing Timing Belt in the ECS Kit?

MurkyRivers_A4
04-07-2016, 07:22 PM
Anyone have any experience with the Gates Racing Timing Belt in the ECS Kit?
Using it now. Just installed it last weekend though so not enough time to really determine anything other than it installed normally and looks pretty.

my1stturbo
04-08-2016, 03:37 PM
Any issue with me driving the car for a few days without the electronics part of the abs module while it gets rebuilt? Want to pull it tomorrow and ship it out.

crazyquik22023
04-08-2016, 06:02 PM
Any issue with me driving the car for a few days without the electronics part of the abs module while it gets rebuilt? Want to pull it tomorrow and ship it out.

No issues. You just won't have ABS

jacobsen
04-08-2016, 06:05 PM
Anyone have any experience with the Gates Racing Timing Belt in the ECS Kit?
I pieced my own timing belt kit together with all the best parts well looking for the cheapest price. Part of my timing belt kit was the gates racing belt. I can confirm that the gates blue belt is a very high-quality unit. And I would recommend it against any other timing belt. I also have the special Goodyear Gates accessory belt. The gates racing belts will last a very long time. And so will the Goodyear Gates accessory belt. I believe you can't find a better belt.

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jacobsen
04-08-2016, 06:08 PM
Anyone have any experience with the Gates Racing Timing Belt in the ECS Kit?
When I was looking at timing belt kits I didn't want to buy one of those expensive kits that's expensive simply because they put everything together. At the time I was looking which was 2 years ago the parts in the kit were not good. Many people have had water pump failures from the ECS kit. It's really important to get a graph metal water pump. The OEM plastic is good but if there is any contamination or shrapnel in your coolant system it will destroy the blades. for instance if a flange or a coupler or a piece of the J plug or a piece of o-ring or something hits the plastic fins it can crack it easily.

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Jermunji
04-08-2016, 10:42 PM
I pieced my own timing belt kit together with all the best parts well looking for the cheapest price. Part of my timing belt kit was the gates racing belt. I can confirm that the gates blue belt is a very high-quality unit. And I would recommend it against any other timing belt. I also have the special Goodyear Gates accessory belt. The gates racing belts will last a very long time. And so will the Goodyear Gates accessory belt. I believe you can't find a better belt.

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^This

ADCS
04-10-2016, 04:04 AM
Are the fog lights lenses glass? I am pretty sure they chip like glass when I tried to pry them.

yes.

CardFan
04-10-2016, 05:02 PM
http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag375/stflush/40b65dc7-3ffb-49c8-a6a3-7b888220b579_zpskqfzgpe4.jpg (http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/stflush/media/40b65dc7-3ffb-49c8-a6a3-7b888220b579_zpskqfzgpe4.jpg.html)

Soaking wet. Just a matter of time before the wheel bearing goes?

fR3ZNO
04-10-2016, 05:03 PM
How does the bearing feel when you spin it?

Willėnskraft
04-10-2016, 05:34 PM
Has anyone installed the air suspension from an allroad?

OttawaWill
04-10-2016, 05:43 PM
Is chatter/binding during accel from a stop, 90°turn on dry pavement a normal quattro characteristic?

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jacobsen
04-10-2016, 05:51 PM
Is chatter/binding during low speed sharp turning a normal quattro characteristic?

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Audizine mobile app
No

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CardFan
04-10-2016, 10:14 PM
How does the bearing feel when you spin it?

Feels ok I guess. Not making any noise yet. Noticed it while changing the axle (torn inner boot). 110k on the car.

fR3ZNO
04-11-2016, 04:51 AM
Feels ok I guess. Not making any noise yet. Noticed it while changing the axle (torn inner boot). 110k on the car.

Any play in the wheel?

Jermunji
04-11-2016, 07:54 AM
Has anyone installed the air suspension from an allroad?

Wouldn't trust it. Audi was one of the pioneers back then in using the airride technology, buy it doesn't come without some costs. Its quite common for the air bags from the previous gen allroad to blow resulting in a nice sagging suspension. Aftermarket tech has come a long way and I wouldn't count on it more to stand up to the rigors of time.

CardFan
04-11-2016, 07:30 PM
Any play in the wheel?

No

jacobsen
04-11-2016, 07:35 PM
You should be able to make full lock u-turns and circles without binding, clipping or bumping. If you do there's something wrong. But don't go full lock on an Audi, you'll just blow your power steering pump. I think they should fill the power steering system with stop leak at the factory. Because these cars have the worst steering racks of any car ever produced.

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jacobsen
04-11-2016, 07:36 PM
I haven't put a ton of thought into it but you might have a problem with one of your CV axles

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fR3ZNO
04-11-2016, 07:38 PM
You should be able to make full lock u-turns and circles without binding, clipping or bumping. If you do there's something wrong. But don't go full lock on an Audi, you'll just blow your power steering pump. I think they should fill the power steering system with stop leak at the factory. Because these cars have the worst steering racks of any car ever produced.

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Don't blame Audi, blame ZF lol.

jacobsen
04-11-2016, 07:43 PM
Don't blame Audi, blame ZF lol.
Guilt by association, by proxy and by decision. If they didn't duty test the equipment they are installing on their own vehicle they failed. When Audi decided to install ZF racks they took on the liability and the name. In doing so they are promising the consumer that they made the correct decision. I have a 2001 Galant I love to use as a base comparison to every other vehicle and the only thing that's ever been replaced on it are the alternator, the belts and the fluids. At around two hundred and twenty thousand miles I did have to replace the camshaft sensor. It is a fact that the German luxury vehicles aren't as reliable as Japanese economy vehicles that sell for a fraction of the price. The Gallant has been through many years of hard driving where as the Audi has needed constant attention in the same time span.

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fR3ZNO
04-11-2016, 07:48 PM
Fair enough. I was mostly joking anyways. I've had good luck with the power steering system on my B6. 150k miles on the original rack.

However, my two previous B5s (B5.5 Passat and A4) I bought with bad racks. The rack went bad on the Passat because of torn boots and allowed dirt and other abrasives in. The A4 had high miles and I believe the seals started to go, but the PO topped off with generic autozone PS fluid and killed it.

jacobsen
04-11-2016, 08:01 PM
Fair enough. I was mostly joking anyways. I've had good luck with the power steering system on my B6. 150k miles on the original rack.

However, my two previous B5s (B5.5 Passat and A4) I bought with bad racks. The rack went bad on the Passat because of torn boots and allowed dirt and other abrasives in. The A4 had high miles and I believe the seals started to go, but the PO topped off with generic autozone PS fluid and killed it.
I'm still on the original rack but it leaks. I put 2/3 of a bottle of Lucas stop leak in it and that improved the power assisted steering and eliminated noise at full lock. It has never leaked a lot other than when the failure design power steering hose at the cooler leaked. It just leaks a little bit around the drivers side. It's just unacceptable that a car at a fraction of the price can take so much punishment and have nothing go wrong.

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chokung
04-12-2016, 10:50 AM
How long does the tie rods last?

Is it weird if one side (left) claimed losen/played only after a year of normal driven .... ?

jacobsen
04-12-2016, 11:13 AM
How long does the tie rods last?

Is it weird if one side (left) claimed losen/played only after a year of normal driven .... ?
If it was installed incorrectly for example tightened while in the air instead of on the ground it could fail quickly. What a tie rod should not fail that quick it should last year's with normal driving. Unless you have some serious road conditions or struck a large bump or a pothole

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chokung
04-12-2016, 11:25 AM
If it was installed incorrectly for example tightened while in the air instead of on the ground it could fail quickly. What a tie rod should not fail that quick it should last year's with normal driving. Unless you have some serious road conditions or struck a large bump or a pothole

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Thank you so much for a promptly response. I have own MANY cars, mostly european cars, none has the same odd balls with my 3.0. It is normal driven on pave road, not recalling bump on a big pothole... Luckily(perhaps?), the garage that installed it a year ago said it has some kind of warranty, so all I need to pay is half labor to install it again.

jacobsen
04-12-2016, 11:33 AM
Thank you so much for a promptly response. I have own MANY cars, mostly european cars, none has the same odd balls with my 3.0. It is normal driven on pave road, not recalling bump on a big pothole... Luckily(perhaps?), the garage that installed it a year ago said it has some kind of warranty, so all I need to pay is half labor to install it again.
Advise them to use OEM Parts Only. It sounds like a crappy aftermarket part that failed.

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chokung
04-12-2016, 11:47 AM
Advise them to use OEM Parts Only. It sounds like a crappy aftermarket part that failed.

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I'll do that.
Now, odd enough, they call me just now that they took apart the tie rod and it is in good shape, they said there is some played on the left wheel bearing; Now they want to replace the wheel bearing-- quoted 414 bucks. -- more noob on my end...

jacobsen
04-12-2016, 11:54 AM
I'll do that.
Now, odd enough, they call me just now that they took apart the tie rod and it is in good shape, they said there is some played on the left wheel bearing; Now they want to replace the wheel bearing-- quoted 414 bucks. -- more noob on my end...
How many miles on the car, is it quattro?

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chokung
04-12-2016, 12:08 PM
It is a quattro.

173k miles; own since 130k miles

**already told the guys a green light to get it done....

odd enough, i don't feel any play /noises/ or anything that shown the wheel bearing symptom of the car



How many miles on the car, is it quattro?

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jacobsen
04-12-2016, 12:09 PM
It is a quattro.

173k miles; own since 120k miles
You brave soul

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chokung
04-12-2016, 12:11 PM
I know exactly what you mean ... car still drive nice, and not feel like driving an old car ...

Just got a 72k miles 1.8t for a friend last weekend... will retired the 3.0 soon.


You brave soul

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jacobsen
04-12-2016, 01:27 PM
I thought this was normal and agreed upon by diag, commonly referred to as "quattro rumble"?
I believe mine did it as tiptronic, and still as manual, even more so by those who change CD bias upward to 4:1 AFAIK.
In normal driving situations, including going straight, I feel nothing. But in a tight U-turn, let's just say it doesn't like to be jammed in there fast, in gear. Coasting it through neutral is a different story.

Thus I try to run it wide and slower.
Whereas with anything else, such as a common FWD or RWD car, it doesn't do this.
. I'll just give you my experience, I've never had any noise or any like that happen on my 1.8 5 speed. It's super common on any kind of truck.

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UofU_USP
04-12-2016, 11:33 PM
Finally realized the time has come to sell my prized USP :( This year alone I bought a house, got engaged starting wrapping up my medical program, had a custom Cummins 3rd gen built and began my air cooled 911 collection, all that being said I'm really going to miss this car. its been a great car, and I'm attached to it. really bums me out. That being said whats the market on these things nowadays? a nice ballpark range please. mine has 114k

squeegy200
04-15-2016, 01:53 PM
Overheating on the warmest days
Last year I did a thorough maintenance on my AMB motor. Included was timing belt\ water pump replacement. I also replaced the thermostat, J plug, thermostat housing, coolant flange, all of the hoses and clamps. I also replaced the coolant reservoir and pressure cap. The only thing original that remains is the radiator and the heater core. I have had no issues with temperature even during spirited driving and mountain road climbing. However, I do have one issue which occurs only in slow stop-n-go traffic on days when outside ambient temperatures exceed 90f. Unfortunately here in SoCal, that is a scenario which happens often on our crowded freeways. Yesterday, the car finally sent me a coolant temperature warning buzzer while stuck in traffic

I have no percievable leaks and no loss of fluid. Coolant is 50/50 G12 and distilled water.


Is it time to replace radiator? Other suggestions appreciated.

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fR3ZNO
04-15-2016, 01:55 PM
Make sure that your fans are coming on.

jacobsen
04-15-2016, 03:43 PM
Make sure that your fans are coming on.
Dem fans yo!

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squeegy200
04-15-2016, 04:12 PM
Make sure that your fans are coming on.
Thanks. Will do.

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my1stturbo
04-16-2016, 09:56 AM
Just went to get AC recharged and shop advised me that system is leaking from the compressor itself. So wondering

1. Is that an o-ring failure that is easily fixed?
2. If not, what's a good place to get a replacement? I was quoted almost 2k for a factory installed unit so looking at alternatives
3. Anywhere I can have my factory unit rebuilt if I can stand to be without the car for a week or so?

jacobsen
04-16-2016, 10:15 AM
Just went to get AC recharged and shop advised me that system is leaking from the compressor itself. So wondering

1. Is that an o-ring failure that is easily fixed?
2. If not, what's a good place to get a replacement? I was quoted almost 2k for a factory installed unit so looking at alternatives
3. Anywhere I can have my factory unit rebuilt if I can stand to be without the car for a week or so?
Have the system evacuated. Go to rock auto.com and get whichever one you need, think it's a Denso on mine. It's only a few hundred bucks and make sure to price check on eBay. Removal and installation is pretty straightforward but whatever you do, don't drive the car with the compressor evacuated. You can burn out the compressor. There's no clutch, it's always engaged. I'm not sure why they use the old school style compressors and not the new magnetic clutch Style... But that's the way it is.

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jacobsen
04-16-2016, 10:19 AM
Also you can replace the silica container, it absorbs water in the system and while you're at it you might as well replace the filter screen, it only cost a couple dollars.

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my1stturbo
04-16-2016, 11:10 AM
Thanks for the information. System is empty, was going to through in one of those recharge kits for a little bit until the new compressor comes. Will have a shop empty system then drive it home and replace compressor myself if it's straightforward. Figured I'd do the drier at the same time. I think I picked up a screen in the past so will put that in then.

ckimble
04-16-2016, 05:11 PM
Anyone put the strip of B7 buttons in on the B6. The ones above the radio, I just want to get rid of the useless cup holder.

gmudan
04-21-2016, 12:26 PM
Car started whining (like an alternator whine). I thought it was my ac compressor because the guys told me it was gone. Bought a shorter belt and by passed it. Still whining, so I got the alternator pulley and brushes rebuilt. Still whining! Anyone else have some insight?

customa4
04-21-2016, 12:50 PM
Use a mechanics stethoscope to pinpoint exactly where it's coming from. Something like this. Click (http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B0002SQYSM)

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31U9Oa6ww%2BL.jpg

Harbor Freight has one for $5 if you have one close by. Click (http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-69913.html)

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_22652.jpg

gmudan
04-21-2016, 01:23 PM
Alright I'll try that^

squeegy200
04-21-2016, 02:04 PM
Make sure that your fans are coming on.
One of the two fans was bad as well as the fan control module. With the front bumper off to allow me access to the fans, i'm replacing both radiator fans and the module.

Thanks!

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fR3ZNO
04-21-2016, 02:05 PM
One of the two fans was bad as well as the fan control module. With the front bumper off to allow me access to the fans, i'm replacing both radiator fans and the module.

Thanks!

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Awesome! You're welcome, glad that helped! [emoji1360]

gmudan
04-22-2016, 11:21 AM
Just tried pin pointing the noise with a stethoscope and I got the same noise from the alternator and tensioner... Any ideas?

customa4
04-22-2016, 12:37 PM
Just tried pin pointing the noise with a stethoscope and I got the same noise from the alternator and tensioner... Any ideas?

Hmmm. Is there any slack on the belt or wobble?

SJorge3442
04-22-2016, 12:48 PM
Just tried pin pointing the noise with a stethoscope and I got the same noise from the alternator and tensioner... Any ideas?

Do you trust the guys who rebuilt it? Are you sure they replaced the bearing? Figured I would just ask. Sometimes shops do sketchy work. Also FWIW, my sisters alternator on her Accent went bad within 5K of installing it. Bearing was squealing like crazy and locking up the rest of the belts [o_o]

gmudan
04-22-2016, 12:49 PM
Do you trust the guys who rebuilt it? Are you sure they replaced the bearing? Figured I would just ask. Sometimes shops do sketchy work.

Yea. They are known for good work, but I'll ask them to check it out.


Hmmm. Is there any slack on the belt or wobble?

Not really, pretty tight. I might try to find a used one to swap real quick.

H8bumps
04-22-2016, 05:25 PM
Did I do something wrong? I have been looking at the wheel thread and I noticed a car with the same suspension as me. Tein S tech and koni shocks. I noticed his is not as low as mine. Is there a reason why my rear is tucked as low as it is and my front isnt? Really bothering me...does this look normal? http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg244/disshittakestoolong/MyShit.jpg (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/disshittakestoolong/media/MyShit.jpg.html)

hightime80
04-23-2016, 04:41 PM
Torque spec for motor mount top and bottom nuts?

diwasas
04-25-2016, 01:17 AM
Cruise control can not detect vehicle speed (006 channel of engine meas. block always shows 0.0 km/h), is it possible to directly add a wire from instrument cluster's green connector 5-pin (speedometer input) to corresponding pin at ECU, or IC encodes the signal before sending to ECU?

ckimble
04-26-2016, 06:37 PM
Someone have the link to the part numbers for the Q3 or Q5 brake set-up?

bmartin247
04-30-2016, 01:47 PM
I have the 3.0 engine, so a while back my o2 sensor went out (b2s1) when I went to Napa to buy the o2 sensor, it was a different fitting (2 rows of 3 prongs I believe) mine was 4 straight across. The post cat o2 sensor had the same prongs, so I picked it up believing they just had it in stock wrong but the CEL came back 5 miles later. Here is a picture of the o2 sensor (b2s1) that I pulled from my car.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160430/5300b56a5d8f3468df28a3bc7156c6b6.jpg
Is anyone else's 3.0 like this? Everywhere else I look its the 2rows of 3 prongs that show up for the pre cat o2 sensor but mine is just straight 4 prongs.

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SJorge3442
04-30-2016, 03:07 PM
I have the 3.0 engine, so a while back my o2 sensor went out (b2s1) when I went to Napa to buy the o2 sensor, it was a different fitting (2 rows of 3 prongs I believe) mine was 4 straight across. The post cat o2 sensor had the same prongs, so I picked it up believing they just had it in stock wrong but the CEL came back 5 miles later. Here is a picture of the o2 sensor (b2s1) that I pulled from my car.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160430/5300b56a5d8f3468df28a3bc7156c6b6.jpg
Is anyone else's 3.0 like this? Everywhere else I look its the 2rows of 3 prongs that show up for the pre cat o2 sensor but mine is just straight 4 prongs.

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I think the rear o2 is that connector. My front o2 was 2 rows.

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bmartin247
04-30-2016, 03:23 PM
Yeah that's what Napa told me, but I even cut the connector from the upstream o2 sensor and fished the wire through and that was the connector, which is why I'm confused

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bmartin247
04-30-2016, 03:23 PM
Yeah that's what Napa told me, but I even cut the connector from the upstream o2 sensor and fished the wire through and that was the connector I disconnected, which is why I'm confused

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a1rh3adSz
05-01-2016, 06:02 PM
B6 a4 key fob, before all this my key fob would work at good distance, but slowly it got to the point of it would not let me unlock or locks the door unless i am next to it. So i thought it was the battery order some and got it replaced. Now its better but still not as good as before. Any thing i did wrong or need to do? I searched and got mix answer, some saying i need to reprogram the key fob and some say dont have to do anything.

my1stturbo
05-02-2016, 07:24 AM
To change the AC compressor am I just putting a open end wrench on the alternator belt tensioner, taking the belt off and then pulling the bolts and lines secured to compressor? Don't think it needs to go into service position correct?

jacobsen
05-02-2016, 07:25 AM
To change the AC compressor am I just putting a open end wrench on the alternator belt tensioner, taking the belt off and then pulling the bolts and lines secured to compressor? Don't think it needs to go into service position correct?
Correct

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jacobsen
05-02-2016, 07:27 AM
To change the AC compressor am I just putting a open end wrench on the alternator belt tensioner, taking the belt off and then pulling the bolts and lines secured to compressor? Don't think it needs to go into service position correct?
Make sure you evacuate the system before you work on it. Its a crime to release refrigerant into the atmosphere.

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daught
05-02-2016, 09:09 AM
Where can I get SNUG hub centering rings? 57.1 73.1


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Jermunji
05-02-2016, 09:21 AM
B6 a4 key fob, before all this my key fob would work at good distance, but slowly it got to the point of it would not let me unlock or locks the door unless i am next to it. So i thought it was the battery order some and got it replaced. Now its better but still not as good as before. Any thing i did wrong or need to do? I searched and got mix answer, some saying i need to reprogram the key fob and some say dont have to do anything.

I'd suggest looking into the antenna. Here is a thread regarding a potential solution to replacing it completely.

DIY B6 A4 Antenna Amplifier fix. Radio Reception / Key Fob Reception
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=566513

Jermunji
05-02-2016, 02:56 PM
Can I throw a cupra lip on a C5 RS6?


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fR3ZNO
05-02-2016, 07:56 PM
Can I throw a cupra lip on a C5 RS6?


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Yeah you can throw one at it, not sure how that would help though.

Jermunji
05-02-2016, 10:49 PM
Just want to give it more modern updated aesthetics


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Lornnn
05-02-2016, 11:28 PM
The coolant level sensor wires broke off from the harness right below the plug itself so I don't have enough room to directly solder them back together in the engine bay. What kind of wire can I use to extend the connection? Is there some standard gauge that can be found?

For reference:
http://assets.suredone.com/1517/media-photos/cp033709-coolant-level-sensor-pigtail-plug-connector-vw-passat-audi-a4-a6-1j0-973-723.jpg

Pr1ce
05-03-2016, 10:17 AM
Dumb question... How do you install the TIP... Does anyone have a diagram or process or video....
My car didn't come with one and I'm returning it to stock and have no clue how to hook it up

Thank you

fR3ZNO
05-03-2016, 10:31 AM
Just want to give it more modern updated aesthetics


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Lol I was being sarcastic. But yeah, I'm sure it would fit.

callmemaurice
05-03-2016, 10:32 AM
How screwed am I?

It appears the rear passenger side diff seal is leaking pretty bad.
CV boots are fine, nothing noticeable YET while driving.
It looks like the exhaust shop that installed a new mid muffler and flex pipe welded it a little "off" so the passenger side exhaust sits higher. Could that have caused it?

http://i.imgur.com/AsEEuBH.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VdoPixV.jpg

fR3ZNO
05-03-2016, 10:32 AM
Dumb question... How do you install the TIP... Does anyone have a diagram or process or video....
My car didn't come with one and I'm returning it to stock and have no clue how to hook it up

Thank you

I've found its easiest to install with the passenger headlight removed. Slip the end over the turbo inlet first, and then tighten the clamp. From there, just connect the other things, which depend on engine code. Then attach to airbox and you're all done.

Pr1ce
05-03-2016, 10:50 AM
I've found its easiest to install with the passenger headlight removed. Slip the end over the turbo inlet first, and then tighten the clamp. From there, just connect the other things, which depend on engine code. Then attach to airbox and you're all done.

Not the most in depth but I'll see what I can do... The whole front clip is off the car so I'm good there.

So one end goes over turbo and the other end into the air box?

fR3ZNO
05-03-2016, 10:59 AM
Not the most in depth but I'll see what I can do... The whole front clip is off the car so I'm good there.

So one end goes over turbo and the other end into the air box?

Sorry, it's fairly straight forward. With the front clip off, it should be really easy. Yep, the smaller end goes over the turbo and the larger end goes on the airbox.

Pro tip: I used a 1/4" ratchet and long extension with a socket to tighten the hose clamp on the turbo inlet. Much easier than using a screwdriver.

Scroll down a little bit and there's a quick walkthrough on TIP removal: Clicky Click (http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/apr3.html)

Also, here's a pic from Old Guy's turbo install (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/639569-Frankenturbo-F21L-Installation):


From 1 to 5: DV, N80 Evap, N75, PRV, SJP. If you have a 2002 model you will not have connection 5. Disconnect the 5 lines. You will need to access several from underneath.

http://i61.tinypic.com/2v0bnmh.jpg


How screwed am I?

I doubt the slightly smaller gap between the exhaust and heat shield would have affected the diff seals. It's more likely just degradation of the seal due to old age.

fR3ZNO
05-03-2016, 06:32 PM
How applicable is this to A4?
Has anyone done this?

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/705686-How-to-make-your-B6-foglights-look-like-new-for-about-30

You can simply buy a new set of A4 fog housings on eBay.

daught
05-04-2016, 02:37 PM
I need to get the lenses off for a project. What temp should they be baked at?


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jacobsen
05-05-2016, 04:01 PM
I need to get the lenses off for a project. What temp should they be baked at?


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Start low and go higher if you need to. I would start around 150 maybe? I don't know.

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peterbillygrace
05-07-2016, 05:27 PM
I found some coolant on the ground earlier this week. I think I tracked it down to the bottom timing cover, I'm guessing this would be coming from the water pump?

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7368/26273046824_be2902932b_c.jpg

I tried to look for the leak from above but couldn't see anything...

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7625/26274124103_bfbb1598a0_c.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7264/26273038774_4eba6b9de5_c.jpg

I recently changed the coolant flange and everything is still dry back there.

MoparFreak69
05-07-2016, 06:14 PM
I found some coolant on the ground earlier this week. I think I tracked it down to the bottom timing cover, I'm guessing this would be coming from the water pump?

.

Yep, water pump.

Seerlah
05-07-2016, 06:35 PM
The coolant level sensor wires broke off from the harness right below the plug itself so I don't have enough room to directly solder them back together in the engine bay. What kind of wire can I use to extend the connection? Is there some standard gauge that can be found?

For reference:
http://assets.suredone.com/1517/media-photos/cp033709-coolant-level-sensor-pigtail-plug-connector-vw-passat-audi-a4-a6-1j0-973-723.jpg

Depin connector, cut insulation back, crimp on new terminals, place new ends into existing plug. Cheapest route with new pins that can be bought at Radio Shack. Bring old ones with you to pick up same ones.

Teh
05-11-2016, 10:06 AM
When starting the car, the manual says to drive straight away, I was always under the impression it's good to warm it up slighty before any driving.

It has a higher tick-over for a couple of minutes and I thus let it idle until the revs drop and stay consistent before moving. I did this before I purchased a manual, recently i've been doing a bit of both..

What is the "correct" way to start and drive the 1.8t?

Thanks :)

jacobsen
05-11-2016, 10:14 AM
When starting the car, the manual says to drive straight away, I was always under the impression it's good to warm it up slighty before any driving.

It has a higher tick-over for a couple of minutes and I thus let it idle until the revs drop and stay consistent before moving. I did this before I purchased a manual, recently i've been doing a bit of both..

What is the "correct" way to start and drive the 1.8t?

Thanks :)
My personal opinion on any turbo car is to warm it up. The reason being is that cold oil does not flow through the turbo like hot oil. Also, the compressor and exhaust fans are better off slowly heating up rather than quickly heating up. Quick heating of any alloy or metal causes small stress fractures within the molecular structure of the material. Of course this is always true for any Heating and Cooling. But it can be a problem when done too quickly. I think the same Principle is true for all of the working parts of the motor. And gearbox.

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old guy
05-11-2016, 10:36 AM
When starting the car, the manual says to drive straight away, I was always under the impression it's good to warm it up slighty before any driving.

It has a higher tick-over for a couple of minutes and I thus let it idle until the revs drop and stay consistent before moving. I did this before I purchased a manual, recently i've been doing a bit of both..

What is the "correct" way to start and drive the 1.8t?

Thanks :)

Start the engine. Let it run for 30 seconds to make sure everything is well oiled and then drive gently until the block is up to temperature. The fast idle is to get the cat up to temperature faster. You can do the same thing by driving.

deyrag
05-11-2016, 11:41 AM
Is there any available heated steering wheel that is (easily) retro-fittable to the B6?

jacobsen
05-11-2016, 11:46 AM
Is there any available heated steering wheel that is (easily) retro-fittable to the B6?
I like that question, bumpity mcbump bump

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daught
05-11-2016, 04:33 PM
I noticed a small suspension clunk since I went to my stiff summer tires. I went through all my control arms and tie rod and they don't have any lateral or vertical play. However the tie rod can be twisted very easily. If I twist it hard it makes a clunk when it reaches side of the housing. No lateral/vertical play. The other tie rod is a bit stiffer. How much resistance should tie rods have to twisting?

fR3ZNO
05-11-2016, 05:19 PM
Does anyone run these Koni coilovers: https://www.europaparts.com/koni-coilover-kit-1150-5061.html

I got a set from a friend and can't find anything on what bump stops to use. In the pic from Europa Parts, there's no included bump stops... So I'm assuming I reuse the stock ones?

I'm just worried the stock ones might be too long and they'll hit the shock too easily.

kifac
05-12-2016, 06:11 PM
so i got my oil changed not to long ago and i had never had an issue with my car leaking oil....all i had done was oil change, bigger oil filter and my oil sensor changed.
Ever since then, i have a good amount of oil on my parking floor. Looked under my car and i can see it running accros some sort of a front sway bar?
But the plug on the oil pan definately had oil on it and so did the oil sensor....Could he have not tightened them properly?
Checked the oil today after work and had nothing on the dip stick after wiping it clean and putting in and pulling it out.

Any ideas?

Its a 1.8T

jacobsen
05-12-2016, 06:16 PM
so i got my oil changed not to long ago and i had never had an issue with my car leaking oil....all i had done was oil change, bigger oil filter and my oil sensor changed.
Ever since then, i have a good amount of oil on my parking floor. Looked under my car and i can see it running accros some sort of a front sway bar?
But the plug on the oil pan definately had oil on it and so did the oil sensor....Could he have not tightened them properly?
Checked the oil today after work and had nothing on the dip stick after wiping it clean and putting in and pulling it out.

Any ideas?

Its a 1.8T
Obviously that situation is very suspect. The oil level sensor is very near the sway bar. You should not have any kind of leak at all from either one of those things. I suppose it's possible they over tightened the oil sensor. Anytime there's an oil leak on the motor it can lead back to the drain plug. Especially if the level sensor is leaking. You gotta get under there and look man top up your oil make sure you don't drive low on oil. If there was nothing on your dipstick and your level sensor did not indicate you were low on oil then the sensor is defective or the wiring is bad. But if the wiring were bad you should be getting a warning on the dash.

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customa4
05-12-2016, 06:23 PM
so i got my oil changed not to long ago and i had never had an issue with my car leaking oil....all i had done was oil change, bigger oil filter and my oil sensor changed.
Ever since then, i have a good amount of oil on my parking floor. Looked under my car and i can see it running accros some sort of a front sway bar?
But the plug on the oil pan definately had oil on it and so did the oil sensor....Could he have not tightened them properly?
Checked the oil today after work and had nothing on the dip stick after wiping it clean and putting in and pulling it out.

Any ideas?

Its a 1.8T

My buddy had his oil changed at a VW dealer in CT right before he was getting ready to drive it to Florida. Luckily he didn't leave right away because they never torqued the drain plug. Had oil leaking in his driveway and figured out the bolt was loose. Could have turned into a big problem.

kifac
05-12-2016, 06:34 PM
My buddy had his oil changed at a VW dealer in CT right before he was getting ready to drive it to Florida. Luckily he didn't leave right away because they never torqued the drain plug. Had oil leaking in his driveway and figured out the bolt was loose. Could have turned into a big problem.
Yeah i could see the oil around it...should i go ahead and tighten it myself?


Obviously that situation is very suspect. The oil level sensor is very near the sway bar. You should not have any kind of leak at all from either one of those things. I suppose it's possible they over tightened the oil sensor. Anytime there's an oil leak on the motor it can lead back to the drain plug. Especially if the level sensor is leaking. You gotta get under there and look man top up your oil make sure you don't drive low on oil. If there was nothing on your dipstick and your level sensor did not indicate you were low on oil then the sensor is defective or the wiring is bad. But if the wiring were bad you should be getting a warning on the dash.

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Well that was the reason why i changed the sensor...i had the error on my dash for the longest time. Swapped it out and havent seen it since.
Its also what i saw when i went under...it looked like it was on the sway bar and also made its way down towards the drain plug.

Thinking i should get my car up on a lift and see if i can tighten the drain plug anymore

sa_seahawker
05-12-2016, 06:39 PM
so i got my oil changed not to long ago and i had never had an issue with my car leaking oil....all i had done was oil change, bigger oil filter and my oil sensor changed.
Ever since then, i have a good amount of oil on my parking floor. Looked under my car and i can see it running accros some sort of a front sway bar?
But the plug on the oil pan definately had oil on it and so did the oil sensor....Could he have not tightened them properly?
Checked the oil today after work and had nothing on the dip stick after wiping it clean and putting in and pulling it out.

Any ideas?

Its a 1.8T


IIRC, Audi recommends changing the plug with every oil change. most people don't but it can leak from the metal seal. If not I would clean/wipe off the bottom of the motor around the oil pan seal area and see where it seems to be originating from. The oil pan seal is not a cork/rubber ring seal. It's a goo spread around the perimeter and it's easy to mess up if the pan came off and the mechanic wasn't careful about keeping the bead intact before reinstalling.

If not, then it could be a possibility the oil sensor wasn't torqued down enough. It's kind of a PITA to get in there and it's possible that it got cross-threaded during install. Also, why did you change the size of the filter? The OEM sized oil filter should be more than sufficient for even a moderately modded vehicle.

jacobsen
05-12-2016, 06:43 PM
IIRC, Audi recommends changing the plug with every oil change. most people don't but it can leak from the metal seal. If not I would clean/wipe off the bottom of the motor around the oil pan seal area and see where it seems to be originating from. The oil pan seal is not a cork/rubber ring seal. It's a goo spread around the perimeter and it's easy to mess up if the pan came off and the mechanic wasn't careful about keeping the bead intact before reinstalling.

If not, then it could be a possibility the oil sensor wasn't torqued down enough. Also, why did you change the size of the filter? The OEM sized oil filter should be more than sufficient for even a moderately modded vehicle.
Most everyone with a 1.8 940/25 or the one I run which is the biggest one it is the 950 / 4. It adds capacity to the system which is too small as it is. And it also provides longer and more efficient filtration. With the same bypass pressure. It's likely that over-tightening is what has caused the level sensor to leak. Over tightening or under tightening can cause that. One thing you wouldn't see it oil leaking from the plug up to the level sensor so you can probably rule that out. The oil leak is coming from somewhere, the start is to clean it up and we inspect or do a good inspection as it is to see where it's originating from.

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kifac
05-12-2016, 06:52 PM
IIRC, Audi recommends changing the plug with every oil change. most people don't but it can leak from the metal seal. If not I would clean/wipe off the bottom of the motor around the oil pan seal area and see where it seems to be originating from. The oil pan seal is not a cork/rubber ring seal. It's a goo spread around the perimeter and it's easy to mess up if the pan came off and the mechanic wasn't careful about keeping the bead intact before reinstalling.

If not, then it could be a possibility the oil sensor wasn't torqued down enough. It's kind of a PITA to get in there and it's possible that it got cross-threaded during install. Also, why did you change the size of the filter? The OEM sized oil filter should be more than sufficient for even a moderately modded vehicle.

Jacobsen explained it perfectly. Ill give it a shot tommorow, and take a look at it further.
Thanks for the help :)

kifac
05-12-2016, 06:53 PM
Most everyone with a 1.8 940/25 or the one I run which is the biggest one it is the 950 / 4. It adds capacity to the system which is too small as it is. And it also provides longer and more efficient filtration. With the same bypass pressure. It's likely that over-tightening is what has caused the level sensor to leak. Over tightening or under tightening can cause that. One thing you wouldn't see it oil leaking from the plug up to the level sensor so you can probably rule that out. The oil leak is coming from somewhere, the start is to clean it up and we inspect or do a good inspection as it is to see where it's originating from.

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Only issue is I cant really undo it or else it could drop and drain all the oil LOL

What do you think is best I do?especially when it comes to the drain plug?

The sensor I can loosen and tighten one screw at a time

Luxus Panzer
05-12-2016, 06:58 PM
No leak before work.... let alone after work....take it back to the shop.

jacobsen
05-12-2016, 07:14 PM
No leak before work.... let alone after work....take it back to the shop.
Very good point, succinct and sensical. I would also like to point out that any time you do an oil change on the 1.8 you're going to get oil leaking from the oil filter onto the Shelf portion of where the block transitions to the oil pan. Because of the way the motor is designed. It is possible that you do not have a leak at all and that they just didn't fill your motor up enough with oil. But taking the totality of the situation into account you must narrow down whether or not you have an oil leak and if so where is it coming from.

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fR3ZNO
05-13-2016, 01:25 PM
I've got B5 S4 calipers in the front and B6 S4 rear calipers I just installed. I've been having a hell of a time bleeding the air out. I did farthest to nearest since the rears were replaced. I also made sure to bleed the clutch. I'm using a motive power bleeder at around 20psi and lightly tapped the calipers with a mallet to help dislodge any air bubbles. I couldn't see any air in the hose connected to the bleeder valve. But my pedal is still very mushy. Should I do another bleed but closest to farthest from the master? I didn't think it would matter that much. Should I try using VCDS to activate the ABS pump?

jacobsen
05-13-2016, 01:46 PM
I've got B5 S4 calipers in the front and B6 S4 rear calipers I just installed. I've been having a hell of a time bleeding the air out. I did farthest to nearest since the rears were replaced. I also made sure to bleed the clutch. I'm using a motive power bleeder at around 20psi and lightly tapped the calipers with a mallet to help dislodge any air bubbles. I couldn't see any air in the hose connected to the bleeder valve. But my pedal is still very mushy. Should I do another bleed but closest to farthest from the master? I didn't think it would matter that much. Should I try using VCDS to activate the ABS pump?
The Bentley states to go from closest to farthest. So you should do driver side front, clutch, passenger side front, driver side rear, passenger rear. As far as activating the ABS pump this is absolutely mandatory. You can bleed the system and then stop hard on a gravel road a few times or you can vcds the abs pump if you have that. I found that the ABS pump cycling will suck in more fluid. I have a Schwaben power bleeder if it makes any difference.

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fR3ZNO
05-13-2016, 01:49 PM
The Bentley states to go from closest to farthest. So you should do driver side front, clutch, passenger side front, driver side rear, passenger rear. As far as activating the ABS pump this is absolutely mandatory. You can bleed the system and then stop hard on a gravel road a few times or you can vcds the abs pump if you have that. I found that the ABS pump cycling will suck in more fluid. I have a Schwaben power bleeder if it makes any difference.

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Thanks for info. I usually did the clutch first or last in the sequence.

I hate wasting brake fluid, even the cheapo DOT4 stuff I've been using.

jacobsen
05-13-2016, 01:59 PM
Thanks for info. I usually did the clutch first or last in the sequence.

I hate wasting brake fluid, even the cheapo DOT4 stuff I've been using.
I suppose you could the clutch first. I got motul RBF 660 on eBay for 25 bucks per bottle.

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a1rh3adSz
05-14-2016, 12:18 AM
if a compression test comes back good with high numbers can a headgasket still fail?

Willėnskraft
05-14-2016, 01:01 PM
Is the Cupra lip made of abs plastic?

fR3ZNO
05-14-2016, 06:54 PM
I suppose you could the clutch first. I got motul RBF 660 on eBay for 25 bucks per bottle.

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That's not bad I guess.

Still have a bunch of air in the system, pedal is only slightly better. Bled a whole liter through, clutch first and then closest to farthest from master. I didn't see any air bubbles in the bleed hose. I activated the ABS pump at each corner after bleeding 100ml and then bled another 100ml. Also tapped each caliper with a mallet while bleeding.

So I'm at a loss here. I've been running my motive power bleeder at 20-22 psi~. Is that too high?

I've had the worst luck bleeding the brakes on this car, when I bought it the pedal felt great with stock brakes and stainless lines.

jacobsen
05-14-2016, 08:41 PM
That's not bad I guess.

Still have a bunch of air in the system, pedal is only slightly better. Bled a whole liter through, clutch first and then closest to farthest from master. I didn't see any air bubbles in the bleed hose. I activated the ABS pump at each corner after bleeding 100ml and then bled another 100ml. Also tapped each caliper with a mallet while bleeding.

So I'm at a loss here. I've been running my motive power bleeder at 20-22 psi~. Is that too high?

I've had the worst luck bleeding the brakes on this car, when I bought it the pedal felt great with stock brakes and stainless lines.
All your bleeder screws pointed upwards? That is to say all your bleed screws at the top of the caliper or at the bottom?

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areknee
05-15-2016, 11:10 PM
Could anyone point me to where I could try to find the transmission mounts on my sub frame? I have been using this picture for reference http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/28/uhaje4ep.jpg and this is a shot of my passenger side http://i.imgur.com/o6yY1Cc.png



Anyone know where I can find the tranny mounts? Have the motor mounted, trying to remove oil pan but have no idea how to lower the subframe enough to get it out. I removed the three large stretch subframe bolts on both sides of the car but it did not drop that much. Have no idea where I can find the transmission mounts, this is a 03 automatic.

Heres another shot http://i.imgur.com/NsVvx7j.jpg

Thanks!

a1rh3adSz
05-18-2016, 06:03 PM
compression test is good with high numbers, can a bad or fail headgasket still occur??

SJorge3442
05-19-2016, 09:31 AM
Installed generic Bosch O2 sensors.

Their wiring harness is like 5 miles long.
How do you shorten it to match factory/stock length?

I used a NTK sensor on my drivers side front and that cable was about 8" too long. I simply neatly folded the wiring and cable tied it together.

customa4
05-19-2016, 10:23 AM
Installed generic Bosch O2 sensors.

Their wiring harness is like 5 miles long.
How do you shorten it to match factory/stock length?

Cut out the section you don't need and use heat shrinkable butt connectors to reconnect the wires.

fR3ZNO
05-19-2016, 01:11 PM
I would fold up the excess and zip tie as well

deyrag
05-19-2016, 01:15 PM
I thought you were not supposed to cut the wiring on O2 sensors as it screwed with the resistance?

SJorge3442
05-19-2016, 01:27 PM
I thought you were not supposed to cut the wiring on O2 sensors as it screwed with the resistance?

Yeah thats why I ended up just folding the wires up. But the question comes to be - If you have longer wires, isnt resistance also different than the proper length wires?

jacobsen
05-19-2016, 01:28 PM
Are they that sensitive?

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fR3ZNO
05-19-2016, 01:41 PM
Yeah thats why I ended up just folding the wires up. But the question comes to be - If you have longer wires, isnt resistance also different than the proper length wires?

I would think that a few extra feet in length would be negligible.

VanCityA4Q
05-19-2016, 03:33 PM
I noticed a small suspension clunk since I went to my stiff summer tires. I went through all my control arms and tie rod and they don't have any lateral or vertical play. However the tie rod can be twisted very easily. If I twist it hard it makes a clunk when it reaches side of the housing. No lateral/vertical play. The other tie rod is a bit stiffer. How much resistance should tie rods have to twisting?

They shouldn't twist with your hand. Replace your ball joints man!

VanCityA4Q
05-19-2016, 03:42 PM
I've got B5 S4 calipers in the front and B6 S4 rear calipers I just installed. I've been having a hell of a time bleeding the air out. I did farthest to nearest since the rears were replaced. I also made sure to bleed the clutch. I'm using a motive power bleeder at around 20psi and lightly tapped the calipers with a mallet to help dislodge any air bubbles. I couldn't see any air in the hose connected to the bleeder valve. But my pedal is still very mushy. Should I do another bleed but closest to farthest from the master? I didn't think it would matter that much. Should I try using VCDS to activate the ABS pump?

Always closest to furthest when bleeding breaks, if you go furthest to closest once you get to your last caliper you can be flushing air into the other 3 lines you already bled, giving you a mushy pedal feel. Just bleed them again like SP said and you will be fine I'm sure.

VanCityA4Q
05-19-2016, 03:49 PM
All your bleeder screws pointed upwards? That is to say all your bleed screws at the top of the caliper or at the bottom?

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Regardless of pointing up or down, what I like to do is run a hose off the bleeder screws into a half bottle of clean brake fluid, that way you're not wasting fluid and if you leave the hose submerged once you get all the air out of the brake lines and bleed lines it can't suck any air back in if you don't close the valve in time. Makes the job a lot easier.

It also helps to have someone helping you and just do it the old fashioned way, pump the brakes while the car is running while you get your best buddy to open and close the bleeder!

VanCityA4Q
05-19-2016, 03:53 PM
compression test is good with high numbers, can a bad or fail headgasket still occur??

Yes, that is most often the case actually, the gasket fails between the oil and cooling gallery's which are fairly close together, causing the old oil in the coolant issue or vice versa. Just check and see if your oil is milky colored or if your coolant reservoir is all gunked up! Either is a sigh of a head gasket failure.

fR3ZNO
05-19-2016, 04:33 PM
Always closest to furthest when bleeding breaks, if you go furthest to closest once you get to your last caliper you can be flushing air into the other 3 lines you already bled, giving you a mushy pedal feel. Just bleed them again like SP said and you will be fine I'm sure.

Yep. I should have known better. Bentley also mentioned that order. I went the correct order and its slightly better. I'll drive it for a few more days and bleed again.


All your bleeder screws pointed upwards? That is to say all your bleed screws at the top of the caliper or at the bottom?

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They are.

daught
05-20-2016, 08:53 AM
Saw these projector fogs on a german A4. Looked oem. I didn't have a philips on me to check their PN :). Anyone have details on them?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160520/c1278872107b2f81382b68d9e157c27a.jpg


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G.AUDI
05-21-2016, 07:14 PM
Replaced snub, transmission and engine mounts about a year ago with 034 street density mounts. I expected slight vibration but the vibration is pretty bad. (Think lawnmower engine ) Thought it would get better in time but no such luck. Is this normal or improper install?

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ilikethewoods
05-21-2016, 08:56 PM
Has anyone added a oil catch can but is also running the 034 Motor Sports breather hose kit. That hose kits has a t-split coming off the back of the valve cover, wondering how I can add some nice steal braided hose to a catch can. Lates....

customa4
05-21-2016, 09:37 PM
I thought you were not supposed to cut the wiring on O2 sensors as it screwed with the resistance?

Worked fine for me. As long as you use butt connectors I don't think there will be a problem.

customa4
05-21-2016, 09:39 PM
Replaced snub, transmission and engine mounts about a year ago with 034 street density mounts. I expected slight vibration but the vibration is pretty bad. (Think lawnmower engine ) Thought it would get better in time but no such luck. Is this normal or improper install?

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You're probably just gonna have to adjust the mounts a little bit to get rid of the vibration. Loosen them all up and leave the car running for a minute and then tighten them all back down. Should help a lot.

fR3ZNO
05-22-2016, 05:28 AM
Saw these projector fogs on a german A4. Looked oem. I didn't have a philips on me to check their PN :). Anyone have details on them?


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That's a C5 A6...

daught
05-22-2016, 02:26 PM
That's a C5 A6...
Shit yea. There's so many wagons around of every audi generation I got thrown off.

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andrew96
05-23-2016, 02:40 PM
So my car is in the shop getting a new rear axle. First one they said didn't fit because it wasn't for the turbo model? Anyways they wanted to try an a6 model axle on my b6 a4. Will that fit?

KurtEiger
05-23-2016, 03:28 PM
Wondering why Audi sells different tuned versions of its 2.0t.
The b8.5 A4/5 have 220HP
The b9 A4 has 252HP
The mk3 TT has 220HP

Why wouldn't Auid just put the new 252HP 2.0t in the TT?

Also why tune the TTS to 292HP? Why not just go to 300? It's 8 HP more, so not a performance difference, but a huge psychological difference to a potential buyer-like me...
Just thinking...

jacobsen
05-23-2016, 03:30 PM
Wondering why Audi sells different tuned versions of its 2.0t.
The b8.5 A4/5 have 220HP
The b9 A4 has 252HP
The mk3 TT has 220HP

Why wouldn't Auid just put the new 252HP 2.0t in the TT?

Also why tune the TTS to 292HP? Why not just go to 300? It's 8 HP more, so not a performance difference, but a huge psychological difference to a potential buyer-like me...
Just thinking...
Not good numbers for obsessive-compulsives

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hightime80
05-23-2016, 03:34 PM
My wife has bad ocd and it is rough on her and me😝
Just drive the damn car and see if u like it.

MetalMan
05-23-2016, 03:54 PM
Is the eBay short shifter any good for the '04 1.8T 6-speed? Had one in my old B5 5-speed and it was great.
My existing B6 6-speed stock shifter doesn't have any slop (even has less slop than the JHM shifter in my B5 with JHM linkage upgrade). But the throw of the stock shifter is just so long... and I don't want to spend $275 since the JHM group group buy ended.

It's $40.50 right now:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NYPPD-Short-Shifter-Audi-A4-S4-2001-02-03-04-05-06-07-08-09-10-11-12-13-14-/321945393303

B6A4Dave
05-24-2016, 12:49 AM
Has anyone swapped B7 S4 rear brakes onto their B6 A4? pics? links? Details?

fR3ZNO
05-24-2016, 04:36 AM
Has anyone swapped B7 S4 rear brakes onto their B6 A4? pics? links? Details?

I swapped B6 S4 rears onto my B6 A4. AFAIK, B6/B7 S4 brakes are the same.

Anyways, no pics really but it's actually pretty straight forward. First thing is the dust shield needs to be opened up slightly for the carriers to fit. They are much wider than the stock ones. Second, the handbrake needs to be popped out of the clips on the lower control arm to give you more slack so the end can be installed in the caliper. Then you can put the cable back in the clips.

Other than that, they bolt right up with no issues. Just make sure to use the original carrier bolts, they are different lengths. At first, I tried using the S4 carrier bolts I had gotten with the calipers, but the lower bolt didn't have enough threads engaged.

diuvic
05-24-2016, 05:46 AM
So my car is in the shop getting a new rear axle. First one they said didn't fit because it wasn't for the turbo model? Anyways they wanted to try an a6 model axle on my b6 a4. Will that fit?

I don't understand how they came to that conclusion. There are different axles depending on if you have manual or automatic transmission. Other than that, there is a vin split on the axles.

I wonder if they tried installing an axle made for an automatic on a manual or vice versa.


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andrew96
05-24-2016, 07:03 AM
I don't understand how they came to that conclusion. There are different axles depending on if you have manual or automatic transmission. Other than that, there is a vin split on the axles.

I wonder if they tried installing an axle made for an automatic on a manual or vice versa.

It's possible. They said the 1.8t had a heavier duty cv axle and apparently they got the less heavy duty one. Must be for the auto since I drive a manual. Anyways I'm trying to get home to Maryland but stuck in Orlando until it's fixed. They said they will try the A6 cv since the a6 is the 2.7t. Who knows it seems pretty crazy

andrew96
05-24-2016, 08:00 AM
My mechanic just called me and says it worked, a direct fit. idk if it was the back or front cv of the a6 but one of them fits perfectly in the b6 a4 rear[:D]

diuvic
05-24-2016, 08:04 AM
My mechanic just called me and says it worked, a direct fit. idk if it was the back or front cv of the a6 but one of them fits perfectly in the b6 a4 rear[:D]

I would have him check part numbers and make sure the part is intended for your car. It might fit, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's compatible. It probably is and I'm just making something out of nothing. I'm just super wary of them saying something like that.


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