questions you thought were too dumb to ask

[pablolizarraga]

Anyone ever clean a 3.0 intake manifold? My ports are CAKED with oil residue from 170k miles of driving and I wanna clean it up since its off the engine currently. I'm thinking of pulling the intake actuator out and soaking the rest of the intake in degreaser then rinsing? Any other options?

Besides checking condition of valley pan breather tube, you might as well replace valley pan gasket. Just a bunch of bolts (10mm? ) holding it down. I also cleaned the valley pan itself. Turns out theres nail sized holes in the baffles that were clogged.
194124

Thought about replacing oil check valves but never had an issue w/ cold start rattles.


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[SJorge3442]

I was going to do that, but last I checked, that gasket is like $40+ is it not?

Funny thing is, now that I have two cars I'm over here looking at my 3.0 like "is now the time to do a 2.7 swap?!?!"

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[pablolizarraga]

I was going to do that, but last I checked, that gasket is like $40+ is it not?

Funny thing is, now that I have two cars I'm over here looking at my 3.0 like "is now the time to do a 2.7 swap?!?!"

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If you’re holding on to car, I would replace gasket. I had a leak there so I had to do it. Super easy to do.

After pulling the motor/trans, I now feel like the 2.7 is a doable project; especially because of all the info on this forum. Being familiar w/ the 3.0 is definitely helpful w/ working on the 2.7.

Extra car? Go for it!

But... as much as I’d like to do that, my transmission replacement turned into a mechanical restoration project (redid timing belt, O2 sensors, camshaft seals, rear camshaft gaskets, throttle body coolant hoses, vacuum reservoir vacuum hose, pwr steering lines/hose, trans mounts, JHM HFC downpipes, JHM tune, radiator). Plus, after getting all that done, I now need to replace the ABS module AND my driver side camshaft may need to be replaced. So, I can only imagine what else may be in store w/ a 2.7 swap where now you have 2 turbos and their cooling/lubrication to maintain or replace.
And... I live in CA.

Really thought I’d be putting that much money and time into my fastback. THAT car was suppose to be the 2020 summer restoration project.



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[Hightekflytech]

Is there any simple solution (besides buying a new one of course,) to getting a 3” MAF housing to fit my TIP? I’m running rich due to my k04 tune and the original MAF housing. I already have the correct injectors for the tube but this is the last thing needed


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[fR3ZNO]

Is there any simple solution (besides buying a new one of course,) to getting a 3” MAF housing to fit my TIP? I’m running rich due to my k04 tune and the original MAF housing. I already have the correct injectors for the tube but this is the last thing needed


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I suppose you could use some combination of silicone couplers and pipe sections. Go from 3" to 2.5" or whatever size the stock MAF is.

Something like this: Clicky Click (https://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-2-5-to-3-silicone-transition-coupler.html) (just an example) and then a short piece of pipe to connect the current TIP to the coupler and then clamps.

[Hightekflytech]

I suppose you could use some combination of silicone couplers and pipe sections. Go from 3" to 2.5" or whatever size the stock MAF is.

Something like this: Clicky Click (https://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-2-5-to-3-silicone-transition-coupler.html) (just an example) and then a short piece of pipe to connect the current TIP to the coupler and then clamps.

You know what, you got me thinking. I have two spare OEM MAFs and maybe I can chop one up, grab that coupler and mate it with the 3” MAF. Thanks fR3ZNO


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[customa4]

I bough this guy a few months ago at Home Depot. Awesome for soldering and super easy to use. Not too bad for burning out bushings either.

https://www.bernzomatic.com/getattachment/Products/Hand-Torches/Instant-On-Off/TS8000/Bernzomatic_TS8000_torch_03.jpg.aspx?maxsidesize=1 000



https://www.bernzomatic.com/Products/Hand-Torches/Instant-On-Off/TS8000

Will this work for getting spacers off that are seized to the hub? I went to a local Napa and picked up the blue torch thinking it would do the job. I had no luck.

[a1rh3adSz]

Since the brake fluid and the clutch fluid uses the same reservoir, would doing a brake flush cause any problem to the clutch?
Also how much fluid do i need in order to do a flush? I have one bottle at the moment 500ML DOT 4

[Kevin C]

The brake flush should not affect the clutch. While any new fluid is way better than none, on a flush I generally shoot for 2 to 4 times that amount of fluid.

[Kevin C]

Will this work for getting spacers off that are seized to the hub? I went to a local Napa and picked up the blue torch thinking it would do the job. I had no luck.

That's a really tough question. It really depends on how big your current torch is. The Map / Pro gas we get in the USA was changed and doesn't have as good a flame temp as the original Map gas. When you get a Map gas torch, you get typically get a much higher capacity torch. Many propane torches just don't have a lot of flow. You can put a propane bottle on a Map torch and get really good results, its mostly about having a high capacity torch. Most of my experience this is DIY plumping and finding that it took forever to get lead free solder to melt flow into the joint using a propane torch and the larger Map torches were a lot faster and created a better joint.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjRWRsLobpM

[Teach03]

When I bought my a4 i pieced together 2 a4s into 1. It was in a front end collision. Only piece that I didn’t realize was missing was the IC air guide... Cars runs awful in summer and great in Fall. Should I get one to put it in to keep it cooler in warm months?

[Dr.B6Banter]

When I bought my a4 i pieced together 2 a4s into 1. It was in a front end collision. Only piece that I didn’t realize was missing was the IC air guide... Cars runs awful in summer and great in Fall. Should I get one to put it in to keep it cooler in warm months?

Depends on how much you value a good running car in the summer. The factory side mount intercooler is already pretty small and the opening in the bumper is even smaller, so the air guide is pretty essential. Most people chuck it along with their factory IC when they upgrade so a local junkyard or online would be your best bet.

[Teach03]

Thanks Dr

[jgood2709]

When I bought my a4 i pieced together 2 a4s into 1. It was in a front end collision. Only piece that I didn’t realize was missing was the IC air guide... Cars runs awful in summer and great in Fall. Should I get one to put it in to keep it cooler in warm months?

I've got a spare you can have – just send a few bucks for shipping. PM me if you want it.

[Spike00513]

Anyone ever clean a 3.0 intake manifold? My ports are CAKED with oil residue from 170k miles of driving and I wanna clean it up since its off the engine currently. I'm thinking of pulling the intake actuator out and soaking the rest of the intake in degreaser then rinsing? Any other options?

probably happens from PCV system venting "oily aerosol" air from the crankcase, to be recycled back in through the intake.

I may have cleaned mine with purple degreaser and water rinse.

Honestly it probably doesn't affect anything. Plus, it's port injected. So whatever oil cakes on the intake valves, just gets washed/cleaned with fuel injector spray.
Dunking it in an ultrasonic cleaning tank might be another way, but the cheap tank at Harbor Freight is probably too small and I've got no experience using one to know if they work well or not.

[SJorge3442]

probably happens from PCV system venting "oily aerosol" air from the crankcase, to be recycled back in through the intake.

I may have cleaned mine with purple degreaser and water rinse.

Honestly it probably doesn't affect anything. Plus, it's port injected. So whatever oil cakes on the intake valves, just gets washed/cleaned with fuel injector spray.
Dunking it in an ultrasonic cleaning tank might be another way, but the cheap tank at Harbor Freight is probably too small and I've got no experience using one to know if they work well or not.Yeah my thoughts exactly about the pcv being the cause. I'll probably soak in a degreaser solution or dawn. Whatever I grab that day. And yeah my intake valves are spotless. Probably from the 44k treatments over the last 50k miles.

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[Tahoe3.0]

Anyone ever clean a 3.0 intake manifold? My ports are CAKED with oil residue from 170k miles of driving and I wanna clean it up since its off the engine currently. I'm thinking of pulling the intake actuator out and soaking the rest of the intake in degreaser then rinsing? Any other options?

that's what I did. I used a couple jugs of purple power and let the manifold soak in a plastic tub for an hour or two before blasting it with the hose. Be careful taking the little yellow hourglass clips off the actuator, I broke one and they aren't available individually. I just said screw it and reinstalled without the broken one.

[Deerhurst]

What is the microphone looking thing in the roof by the sunroof switch? As far as I know my car never had hands free. Little black thing over by the passenger side map light button.

Is it a microphone? Temp sensor?

There is also a 2 pin connector on the other side. What it that for?

[jgood2709]

What is the microphone looking thing in the roof by the sunroof switch? As far as I know my car never had hands free. Little black thing over by the passenger side map light button.

Is it a microphone? Temp sensor?

There is also a 2 pin connector on the other side. What it that for?

I think the microphone has to do with the Bose Audiopilot feature that everyone can't wait to disable.

[Deerhurst]

Interesting. My car is not bose.

[old guy]

What is the microphone looking thing in the roof by the sunroof switch? As far as I know my car never had hands free. Little black thing over by the passenger side map light button.

Is it a microphone? Temp sensor?

There is also a 2 pin connector on the other side. What it that for?

what year is your B6? Some of the earlier ones came with a motion sensor that is located in the sunroof control panel.

[Deerhurst]

what year is your B6? Some of the earlier ones came with a motion sensor that is located in the sunroof control panel.

2003 Avant 3.0.

[old guy]

2003 Avant 3.0.

What happens if you set the alarm while sitting in your car? Does moving around cause the alarm to activate? If it does you have a motion detector.

[Deerhurst]

What happens if you set the alarm while sitting in your car? Does moving around cause the alarm to activate? If it does you have a motion detector.

I believe it does. It's got 2 little alarm disable switches in the door pocket. One is tilt sensors. I assume the other is motion sensors.

[old guy]

I believe it does. It's got 2 little alarm disable switches in the door pocket. One is tilt sensors. I assume the other is motion sensors.

Then I believe you have answered your own question ;-)

[Deerhurst]

Thank you, sir! Was fixing the phantom sunroof and found things I had to ask about!

I always wondered where the motion sensor was!

[codemode]

My driver side window is acting funny. Every time I roll it down (no matter how much) and try to roll it up it thinks there is a hand and rolls it back down. It is so annoying and I have to manually close it click by click. I tried resetting the controller but no bueno. There are no rock chips or anything stuck. Also I have replaced that regulator myself.


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[a4audi4fun]

@codemode - try spraying some silicone lube into the window tracks; friction is causing the anti-lock mechanism to think there's an obstruction, like a hand or head, in the window gap and triggering the safety release mechanism (open the window) to activate. Typical problem with age as dirt can build up in the track felt-like material.

[Dr.B6Banter]

Does the ECU resort to using the MAP sensor when the MAF is disconnected? There was a short period of time right after replacing my K04 that my MAF broke so I was running with it disconnected, but also in that short period of time, the new turbo was overboosting past 20 psi. I'm wondering how the ECU was able to determine how much fuel to add if the stock map sensor can only read to 2.5bar (~21psi).

On a side note is it common for flash tunes to disable limp mode or the triggers for it? I ask because when my turbo was overboosting, I would assume the ECU would go into limp mode and tell the N75 to just make wasgetage boost, but this did not happen in my case...

[codemode]

Does the ECU resort to using the MAP sensor when the MAF is disconnected? There was a short period of time right after replacing my K04 that my MAF broke so I was running with it disconnected, but also in that short period of time, the new turbo was overboosting past 20 psi. I'm wondering how the ECU was able to determine how much fuel to add if the stock map sensor can only read to 2.5bar (~21psi).

On a side note is it common for flash tunes to disable limp mode or the triggers for it? I ask because when my turbo was overboosting, I would assume the ECU would go into limp mode and tell the N75 to just make wasgetage boost, but this did not happen in my case...

When the MAF gets disconnected your car goes into limp mode and you get no boost, low RPMs 1-2K and it wastes a ton of fuel. AFAIK it uses the MAP and the upstream O2 sensor to calculate the A/F ratio. That is what happens on a bone stock car. Don’t know if you can tune that out.

Unrelated:
I’m about to change my engine oil. AVJ 1.8T 2002, do you guys prime your oil filters and how much oil does it take? I have a big Mahle filter. Some people say 4.3L, some say 4.0L, some say 3.8L, some say 4.2L so which one is it? I don’t change my oil since I don’t have anywhere to dispose it, last time the guy I hired put 4.5L!!! in and I was shocked, like wtf that must be wrong. This time I’m going to hell him to put exactly X.YL, if you can tell me for sure ofc.


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[Dr.B6Banter]

When the MAF gets disconnected your car goes into limp mode and you get no boost, low RPMs 1-2K and it wastes a ton of fuel. AFAIK it uses the MAP and the upstream O2 sensor to calculate the A/F ratio. That is what happens on a bone stock car. Don’t know if you can tune that out.

Unrelated:
I’m about to change my engine oil. AVJ 1.8T 2002, do you guys prime your oil filters and how much oil does it take? I have a big Mahle filter. Some people say 4.3L, some say 4.0L, some say 3.8L, some say 4.2L so which one is it? I don’t change my oil since I don’t have anywhere to dispose it, last time the guy I hired put 4.5L!!! in and I was shocked, like wtf that must be wrong. This time I’m going to hell him to put exactly X.YL, if you can tell me for sure ofc.

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That's interesting... My car behaves completely normally when the MAF is disconnected other than a CEL and traction control light. Makes normal boost and power. No appreciable change in fuel economy based on the cluster either [confused]

Regarding the oil, I don't personally fill the oil filter before putting it on because of the mess but it's probably a good idea. I just crank it for a while to fill the filter and build oil pressure before firing. I usually have around a liter left when I do my change and I use the large Mann oil filters.

Better to just check the dipstick as you fill rather than trying to put a certain amount in there. Run it for a bit, shut it off check the dipstick again, and fill as necessary. I believe the proper procedure for checking the dipstick is after shutting off the engine once it's warm.

[Tahoe3.0]

as an fyi: most of the big auto parts stores (autozone, o'reillys, advance, etc) will take used oil for free. I have one of those larger oil change trays that stores the oil and just pour it into a 5 gal bucket to transport.

[twfry]

I just pulled the front O2 sensor in preparation to remove the downpipe and cat.

When turning the O2 sensor it twists the wire several times, and since the wire leads into the wire harness bundle you can't remove it from the plug to avoid twisting.

My question is, when reinstalling the O2 sensor is it best to start with it "pre-twisted" so that as it is screwed in the wires end up untwisted in the end? Or does this not matter? The O2 sensor takes several turns which left it pretty twisted when it came off, it seems you wouldn't want it in that state after reinstalling

Or am I just over thinking it?

[BerlinerB6]

I just pulled the front O2 sensor in preparation to remove the downpipe and cat.

When turning the O2 sensor it twists the wire several times, and since the wire leads into the wire harness bundle you can't remove it from the plug to avoid twisting.

My question is, when reinstalling the O2 sensor is it best to start with it "pre-twisted" so that as it is screwed in the wires end up untwisted in the end? Or does this not matter? The O2 sensor takes several turns which left it pretty twisted when it came off, it seems you wouldn't want it in that state after reinstalling

Or am I just over thinking it?I've always read/been told to pre-twist the O2 sensor so the harness is untwisted once the sensor is screwed in. I think it's 7 or 7.5 turns in the opposite direction before threading in.

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[Dr.B6Banter]

I just pulled the front O2 sensor in preparation to remove the downpipe and cat.

When turning the O2 sensor it twists the wire several times, and since the wire leads into the wire harness bundle you can't remove it from the plug to avoid twisting.

My question is, when reinstalling the O2 sensor is it best to start with it "pre-twisted" so that as it is screwed in the wires end up untwisted in the end? Or does this not matter? The O2 sensor takes several turns which left it pretty twisted when it came off, it seems you wouldn't want it in that state after reinstalling

Or am I just over thinking it?

Yep, probably not a big deal but pre twisting it will look neater once it's installed. I can't remember how many turns it takes, but you can confirm by just threading the sensor into the cat while it's off the car.

[my1stturbo]

The fuel level sensor is built into the fuel pump? Noticed my gas level isn't working as expected? Started the gas after letting it sit a couple of weeks and the gauge was stuck on E. I knew it wasn't empty but filled it at the gas station anyway. Took about 10 minutes of driving before the gauge went to full. It's moved off full since then, just not moving as quickly as I would think.

[Tahoe3.0]

This one honestly makes me feel dumb because I assume I can, but, better off asking than not.

I am installing a shorter belt so I don't have to worry about my ac compressor grenading. Can I just throw the belt on and call it good or do I have to seal off the compressor from the system?

[Deerhurst]

Generally you can just do a belt that doesn't touch the compressor as long as the tensioning device is not the compressor.

I hear ya about the compressor. Mine makes my car sound sorta diesel. Sounds like my SFM is clattering. Works fine. The one on the girlfriend's 2013 caliber with 38k miles sounds worse so I will just ignore it.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[a1rh3adSz]

When to start the car today to run some errands. Its been 9days since i drove the car, so it sat those 9days. key in and the lights on the dash comes on as usual, I usually prime the car a couple of times before i fully start the car but i didnt hear the pump prime and i didnt think much about it. I went to start it and nothing happen not even a slight bit of crank. So dead battery, I jumped start the car and car started up easily but the gas level is on E and the dash showed 0 miles till empty. I know i had filled up the last time i drove it so it had gas. I shut off the car and put the jump box to it again, this time i hear the pump primed and car start up with the gas gauge moving to where it should be. Drove the car for an hour and came back, i then shut off the car and try to start it again, it started but with struggle.

I didnt have an issue with the battery before, Dont know when the previous owner changed it. I owned the car for about 6 years now.

I have previous left the car sitting for a couple of days longer and didnt have any issue starting, could the change in weather recently cause it to die?

Also what was up with the gas gauge the first time i started it? it moved back to normal the second start.

I am planning to get a new battery, any recommendation??? I know Our cars have the vent tube for the battery, But i have read that we must have the computer code change or something like that?

[Deerhurst]

I'd have the battery checked. I had my car do similar in even less time. Ran to town, it sat for a couple hours. Was really hard to start and by the time I got home 20 minutes later the battery was flat. Wouldn't even make the dash light up.

No coding. Just plop the new battery in.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[Kevin C]

Lots of misinformation on coding the battery to the car, even the parts guy at the dealer insisted that mine needed to be coded. As mentioned, the B6 platform doesn't have that "feature".

[Gosser]

Lots of misinformation on coding the battery to the car, even the parts guy at the dealer insisted that mine needed to be coded. As mentioned, the B6 platform doesn't have that "feature".

x2, nor do B7s for that matter.

[Kevin C]

x2, nor do B7s for that matter.

True, I was just comparing the B7 system to the B6 and its the same wiring diagram and alternators interchange. No lin bus or current sensor. I finally figured out ( re-figured out) how to read the schematics when they jump page to page in the Bentley manual.

[a1rh3adSz]

I'd have the battery checked. I had my car do similar in even less time. Ran to town, it sat for a couple hours. Was really hard to start and by the time I got home 20 minutes later the battery was flat. Wouldn't even make the dash light up.

No coding. Just plop the new battery in.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro


Lots of misinformation on coding the battery to the car, even the parts guy at the dealer insisted that mine needed to be coded. As mentioned, the B6 platform doesn't have that "feature".


x2, nor do B7s for that matter.


Good to know, Thanks for the info guys. I am planning to have the battery checked out at advance autos and probably just swap out the battery with their Diehard gold H7. Not bad for just $140 and 3 years warranty.

how much does OEM battery cost? on the audi parts site they do not list the price nor do they have it for sale.

[Kevin C]

I paid about $160 for a factory battery, over the counter with no discount. Not the best deal but the reputation on the OEM part is very good, mine was about 7 years old.

[Deerhurst]

My car has an interstate in it. It's a huge over priced pile of crap. Only reason I have one is that the interstate the car had when I bought it died in 2 years and it cost me maybe $20 to warranty it out. I've not been impressed.

I have been impressed with some of the Johnson Controls batteries. Walmart sells them under another brand. I had an old Johnson Controls in my truck when I bought it 12+ years ago. It was probably 8-10 years old at the time. It lasted another 6 years. A nasty winter with weekly highs of -25F took it out. It struggled a couple more years before I replaced it. The current one is a walmart branded Johnson Controls. It's 4 or 5 years old with no signs of stopping. It runs 270w of lighting (my 100w Hellas suck down power, HID are pretty effiecient) plus sound system with no hiccups. I've pulled it down below 11.5v and it's still started the truck and held a proper charge. I've jumped cars with it without the truck running (little cars with little motors).

Do some research on batteries. Many with the same name are the same thing. Seems to only be a few places that actually make them. You might be able to get the same exact thing with a different label on it for much cheaper.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[fR3ZNO]

Do some research on batteries. Many with the same name are the same thing. Seems to only be a few places that actually make them. You might be able to get the same exact thing with a different label on it for much cheaper.

this ^

I don't recall who makes the factory battery, but I paid $155 out the door for mine. PN: 000-915-105-DH. The specs on the factory battery and the price compared to other name brands was hard to beat. The PO of my car had one installed and it was nearly 7+ years old when I replaced it. I wasn't having any issues, but replaced it for peace of mind.

[Kevin C]

FYI, the factory battery is rated using the DIN system so you cant directly compare the OEM part to non DIN batteries.

My last factory battery lasted 8 years, it was still working but I didn't want to push my luck. Audi spec batteries typically hold up quite, six to eight years is not unusual, there is a very good reason why many forum members end up with OEM.

From the interwebs SAE = (DIN x 1.5) + 40 That puts the factory battery at at least 610 CCA (by the chart ~ 680). I never knew that there was a DIN version of CCA.

3: Audi rates their batteries for AMP Hours , not reserve capacity. Another conversion is needed to compare. I ended up with PN 000915105DH 340 80 amp hour, same thing me car had before. A good battery isn't just about highest CCA. Its a mix of having enough to get the job done in a certain size and having enough plate spacing so that it doesn't die early from internal shorting. OEM is Old Guy endorsed. [:)]

https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/understanding-the-specifications/

https://www.thebatterycellonline.co.nz/210364/
https://www.thebatterycellonline.co.nz/images/210364/SAE-EN-IEC-DIN-JIS-Conversion-Table.png

[Dr.B6Banter]

Is a vibration/ shuddering when slipping the clutch an indication of a bad DMFW? it's almost like there is an uneven surface on the flywheel/ pressure plate because everything is fine when I have my foot on the clutch/ driving, but the whole car just shudders when I slip the clutch and the shuddering seems to be corelated to ther amount of slip (not noticeable if I slowly slip the clutch and pretty noticeable if I do it quicker)

I've got the boost dialed and the engine is finally running good and probably making the most power it's made since I got it 3 years ago, but there must always be balance in the universe, so now the clutch slips when I hit full boost [rolleyes] I'm trying to research options I could go with toe replace the clutch, and while I'd like to be cheap and just replace the clutch, I feel like the DMFW isn't in the best shape either.

I'm looking at the Valeo HD SMFW conversion kit since I don't have big power plans but I'd like to handle hybrid k04/gtrs power if I go that route next year. In any case, whatever turbo route I end up going likely won't involve upgraded rods and I suspect the torque limits of the rods will be the same as any OE style clutch replacement.

[Deerhurst]

I'd say yes. My DMF was doing that so I ditched it. SMF is light-years better.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[a1rh3adSz]

brake pad wear sensor, are they only in the front and on both sides???

Also do we have the brake pad wear indicator icon symbol on the dashboard??? cause when i start the car without the engine being on, there is no brake pad wear icon symbol.
When i hit the check button and it cycles through the checks, i only see the top half displaying the yellow brake pad wear symbol.

[Deerhurst]

Yes, sensor on both sides in front. You should be able to look at your car and see where there is a sensor. It'll have a wire from the bad to the car. I believe your manual should also outline that.



Alright guys, recommend me a high beam bulb. I already have a Morimoto Mini H1 retrofit but even running a sylvania silver star and a 4300k HID for high beam isn't enough. It's only ~10,000lms, true lumens.

I need something I can still use to flash without my headlights on and won't damage the bulb or ballast. Cannot be LED as LED put out less lumens than the halogen I already have, do not have the right light emission location for the reflector design making the beam pattern all wrong and are not available in 4300k. My eyes don't do the blue content of 5000k and up.

Any recommendations?

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[Dr.B6Banter]

I'd say yes. My DMF was doing that so I ditched it. SMF is light-years better.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

That's good to know... It's been doing the shuddering ever since I got the drivetrain 3 years ago (the car it came in no longer exists lol) so I figured it was just normal lol. I know the slipping definitely isn't so it will need to be replaced. If it's slipping at peak torque now idk how much longer it'll last under normal driving, especially most my driving is in the city with more frequent start/stops.

I'd like to go with an aftermarket lighter weight flywheel ~12-18lb and a 240mm clutch but that is pretty aftermarket and I'm having a hard time finding anything in Canada for a half reasonable price. Since I don't have big power plans for the car I think the Valeo SMFW conversion with the mostly stock weight flywheel (~22lb) is the best I can do since its readily available on Rockauto and I've heard good things about it from guys on here running it with my power level.

What clutch setup did you end up going with? I'm assuming the 3.0 and 1.8t don't share the same clutch setup but it would still be interesting to know.


brake pad wear sensor, are they only in the front and on both sides???

Also, do we have the brake pad wear indicator icon symbol on the dashboard??? cause when i start the car without the engine being on, there is no brake pad wear icon symbol.
When I hit the check button and it cycles through the checks, i only see the top half displaying the yellow brake pad wear symbol.

Yes, there are only on the fronts. If the sensor was going off you would see a consistent yellow brake symbol on the instrument cluster while you were driving.

One of mine went off this summer because one of the wires got nicked. There was plenty of meat left on the pads so I just made a dummy connector to make the car think the pad was fine.

198772198773

[Deerhurst]

I have a TTV flywheel with a B7 RS4 clutch. TTV does make a flywheel for the 1.8T that uses the RS4 clutch. I suggest the B7 RS4 clutch over the B5 due to a beefier adjuster mechanism.

TTV officially does not make a flywheel for the 3.0 but the 2.7T with the 01E uses the same flywheel as the 3.0 with the 01E so it's a drop on thing.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[Dr.B6Banter]

I have a TTV flywheel with a B7 RS4 clutch. TTV does make a flywheel for the 1.8T that uses the RS4 clutch. I suggest the B7 RS4 clutch over the B5 due to a beefier adjuster mechanism.

TTV officially does not make a flywheel for the 3.0 but the 2.7T with the 01E uses the same flywheel as the 3.0 with the 01E so it's a drop on thing.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

Ok, I also know someone locally that has a clutch master's 240mm 17lb SMFW. I'm assuming you can't mix and match clutches and flywheels? Like a 240mm CM flywheel wouldn't mate up with an OEM 240mm B7 rs4 clutch and pressure plate?

While I'd like the additional size for better holding power without a silly heavy pedal, I think the costs will add up quickly along with the "while you're in there" things I want to do like the rear main seal and throw out bearing, so for my power levels the Valeo SMFW conversion kit might just be best.

[Deerhurst]

Ok, I also know someone locally that has a clutch master's 240mm 17lb SMFW. I'm assuming you can't mix and match clutches and flywheels? Like a 240mm CM flywheel wouldn't mate up with an OEM 240mm B7 rs4 clutch and pressure plate?

While I'd like the additional size for better holding power without a silly heavy pedal, I think the costs will add up quickly along with the "while you're in there" things I want to do like the rear main seal and throw out bearing, so for my power levels the Valeo SMFW conversion kit might just be best.You can mix and match stuff quite a bit. Just make sure the flywheel is machined for the pressure plate you want to use. I can't put a B5 RS4 pressure plate on my TTV because the offset and possibly the bolt pattern is different. I also cannot use a B6 clutch due to the same reasons.

I have heard of a lot of people that pick a flywheel and a pick a pressure plate that works with their flywheel then go nuts with the disk! There are even hybrid disks with ceramic on one side and organic on the other.

I have also heard a lot of folks complain about chatter with various SMFs. Havnt heard anyone complain about chatter with the TTV. There is a little chatter but it's only when lugging the car around 1200RPM in a higher gear.

I think a RS4 clutch would probably do just fine for you and retain the OE feel. Lots of guys run them on the 2.7Ts. It's all down to what you want out of it.

I think I paid $480 for the TTV from Vast Performance. Then $120 or $150 for the B7 RS4 clutch kit that had the pressure plate, friction disk and throwout bearing. Rock auto for the clutch parts.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[Dr.B6Banter]

You can mix and match stuff quite a bit. Just make sure the flywheel is machined for the pressure plate you want to use. I can't put a B5 RS4 pressure plate on my TTV because the offset and possibly the bolt pattern is different. I also cannot use a B6 clutch due to the same reasons.

I have heard of a lot of people that pick a flywheel and a pick a pressure plate that works with their flywheel then go nuts with the disk! There are even hybrid disks with ceramic on one side and organic on the other.

I have also heard a lot of folks complain about chatter with various SMFs. Havnt heard anyone complain about chatter with the TTV. There is a little chatter but it's only when lugging the car around 1200RPM in a higher gear.

I think a RS4 clutch would probably do just fine for you and retain the OE feel. Lots of guys run them on the 2.7Ts. It's all down to what you want out of it.

I think I paid $480 for the TTV from Vast Performance. Then $120 or $150 for the B7 RS4 clutch kit that had the pressure plate, friction disk and throwout bearing. Rock auto for the clutch parts.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

Yeah, I suppose its a case by case basis at the end of the day, but I'd imagine it's in the interest of the manufacturer to make it compatible with the broader market to widen their customer base. Assuming I can use that CM flywheel with the B7 rs4 clutch, that might be the way to go. The clutch kit itself on rockauto is super cheap, so It'll just come down to how much I can snag the flywheel for. Its 17lb which is technically considered lightweight, but it's not like the super lightweight aluminum ones at 8-12lb which have the worst issues with chatter and rough driveability due to the low rotational mass.

Especially with a 1.8t I think it's important to have some mass in the flywheel since the rotational inertia of the engine won't be as much as a bigger displacement motor. I don't want to look like a goof revving it up to 2k at every stop light because it'll stall otherwise [>_<]

[Deerhurst]

Yeah, I suppose its a case by case basis at the end of the day, but I'd imagine it's in the interest of the manufacturer to make it compatible with the broader market to widen their customer base. Assuming I can use that CM flywheel with the B7 rs4 clutch, that might be the way to go. The clutch kit itself on rockauto is super cheap, so It'll just come down to how much I can snag the flywheel for. Its 17lb which is technically considered lightweight, but it's not like the super lightweight aluminum ones at 8-12lb which have the worst issues with chatter and rough driveability due to the low rotational mass.

Especially with a 1.8t I think it's important to have some mass in the flywheel since the rotational inertia of the engine won't be as much as a bigger displacement motor. I don't want to look like a goof revving it up to 2k at every stop light because it'll stall otherwise [>_<]You'll love the RS4 clutch. I'm pretty sure of that! It's a little heavier than stock but modulates very nicely. As you said, RS4 clutch kits are cheap.



2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[Deerhurst]

That app is being dumb and screwing things up trying to add to my post. Whoever though editing a post on mobile can be so difficult!

I think a lot of the chatter in the 1.8 SMFs is due to how the engine fires. Like you said, more cylinders is usually smoother.

I'd never go aluminum flywheel. Not durable enough for me.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[a1rh3adSz]

delete.

[a1rh3adSz]

That's good to know... It's been doing the shuddering ever since I got the drivetrain 3 years ago (the car it came in no longer exists lol) so I figured it was just normal lol. I know the slipping definitely isn't so it will need to be replaced. If it's slipping at peak torque now idk how much longer it'll last under normal driving, especially most my driving is in the city with more frequent start/stops.

I'd like to go with an aftermarket lighter weight flywheel ~12-18lb and a 240mm clutch but that is pretty aftermarket and I'm having a hard time finding anything in Canada for a half reasonable price. Since I don't have big power plans for the car I think the Valeo SMFW conversion with the mostly stock weight flywheel (~22lb) is the best I can do since its readily available on Rockauto and I've heard good things about it from guys on here running it with my power level.

What clutch setup did you end up going with? I'm assuming the 3.0 and 1.8t don't share the same clutch setup but it would still be interesting to know.



Yes, there are only on the fronts. If the sensor was going off you would see a consistent yellow brake symbol on the instrument cluster while you were driving.

One of mine went off this summer because one of the wires got nicked. There was plenty of meat left on the pads so I just made a dummy connector to make the car think the pad was fine.

198772198773

Mine hasn't gone off yet, i was just wondering if my car had the warnings. I have the same yellow display warning as you when i cycle through the check button. But when i start my car without the engine being on i do not see the red symbol icon you have in the picture. Instead for me is the brake icon which is my handbrakes in the same location as your red icon.

[Dr.B6Banter]

Mine hasn't gone off yet, i was just wondering if my car had the warnings. I have the same yellow display warning as you when i cycle through the check button. But when i start my car without the engine being on i do not see the red symbol icon you have in the picture. Instead for me is the brake icon which is my handbrakes in the same location as your red icon.

The images that pop up while it cycles through the checks aren't actual faults as far as I know. It is a bit counter-intuitive, but it goes through all the checks and ends with an OK symbol if everything is fine. If there was an issue, it would come up immediately when you pressed the check button rather than cycling through everything. The red symbol was just because my handbrake was engaged, and it's probably the same with you.

If your sensor had gone off, that symbol would have come up and stayed up as you continued driving.

[a1rh3adSz]

The images that pop up while it cycles through the checks aren't actual faults as far as I know. It is a bit counter-intuitive, but it goes through all the checks and ends with an OK symbol if everything is fine. If there was an issue, it would come up immediately when you pressed the check button rather than cycling through everything. The red symbol was just because my handbrake was engaged, and it's probably the same with you.

If your sensor had gone off, that symbol would have come up and stayed up as you continued driving.

ahhh, now i understand. lol thanks.
and yea i think you have a different symbol icon for the handbrake than me because i just have the word "BRAKE"

[Matteo Santucci]

I’m thinking of buying a 2.0 coil pack conversion for my 03 b6 A4 but I’m wondering what the benefit would be?


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[lunder03]

Anybody pull an upper oil pan from the A4 B6 3.0 AVK yet???

I’ve lowered the subframe...the engine and tranny are supported by an engine support beam and raised slightly.

The lower oil pan and oil pump are out. I’ve removed every bolt so it seems, from the upper oil pan...I even removed the alternator and starter because something is still holding it on near the rear.

I removed the hidden bolts which set above the subframe there were two and a pain...I’ve looked everywhere and the only thing I can think is maybe, there’s a bolt which goes into the upper oil pan from inside the bell housing?

There’s a decent window which allows you to see the fly wheel and get some fingers into. I reached in there near the base of the block on the lowest left hand side as you stand in front of the engine...this would be the top left side of the back of the upper oil pan...anyway, it feels like there’s a bolt there...probably a 10mm hex head...no way to get that if there is, not without dropping the tranny...engineers tick me off.

Do I have to drop this transmission?!?!?!

I have the manual, but it appears there’s only info for the upper oil pan for the 1.8t...maybe this is for a reason?


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[Dr.B6Banter]

Does the oil level in a 1.8t extend up to the mating surface between the pan and the block? I doubt it does but I want to replace the rear main seal when replacing my clutch and I don't want to draint the oil just to have to do that.

Also what's everyone's consesus on where to get the RMS from? are the popular ones from rockauto fine or is it a must buy from the dealership? I know the ones that come with plastic locater preinstalled greatly reduces the chance of the lip folding over and leaking but all the ones I've seen on rockauto come with that.

[Spike00513]

Anybody pull an upper oil pan from the A4 B6 3.0 AVK yet???

I’ve lowered the subframe...the engine and tranny are supported by an engine support beam and raised slightly.

The lower oil pan and oil pump are out. I’ve removed every bolt so it seems, from the upper oil pan...I even removed the alternator and starter because something is still holding it on near the rear.

I removed the hidden bolts which set above the subframe there were two and a pain...I’ve looked everywhere and the only thing I can think is maybe, there’s a bolt which goes into the upper oil pan from inside the bell housing?

There’s a decent window which allows you to see the fly wheel and get some fingers into. I reached in there near the base of the block on the lowest left hand side as you stand in front of the engine...this would be the top left side of the back of the upper oil pan...anyway, it feels like there’s a bolt there...probably a 10mm hex head...no way to get that if there is, not without dropping the tranny...engineers tick me off.

Do I have to drop this transmission?!?!?!

I have the manual, but it appears there’s only info for the upper oil pan for the 1.8t...maybe this is for a reason?


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Probably requires removal of lower bellhousing bolts

[codemode]

1) Would having some fresh oil on (and around) the intercooler pipe indicate a leak? I know there is oil inside the intercooler, but I'm talking on the outside, specifically that small L shaped hose (lower) on the drivers side.
2) Why is water leaking from my lower radiator coolant sensor (from the plug specifically)? Can't find any info online + I'm not getting any codes related to it.

[fR3ZNO]

1) Would having some fresh oil on (and around) the intercooler pipe indicate a leak? I know there is oil inside the intercooler, but I'm talking on the outside, specifically that small L shaped hose (lower) on the drivers side.
2) Why is water leaking from my lower radiator coolant sensor (from the plug specifically)? Can't find any info online + I'm not getting any codes related to it.

1. Could you elaborate as to which hose you're talking about? If you're getting oil on the outside it sounds like there could be a leak, but you'd also have a boost leak. Might be oil dripping onto the hose from somewhere else.

2. That's a weird failure, but the coolant could be leaking through the pins on the sensor itself.

Some pics might be useful.

[codemode]

1. Could you elaborate as to which hose you're talking about? If you're getting oil on the outside it sounds like there could be a leak, but you'd also have a boost leak. Might be oil dripping onto the hose from somewhere else.

2. That's a weird failure, but the coolant could be leaking through the pins on the sensor itself.

Some pics might be useful.

Hose number 7 (https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Audi/brand/3/0/Audi%20A4/Audi%20A4%20(2001%20-%202005)/Audi/RGVaUFdRRERsczhNdTc4dDZxOXdDQT09--/6bbffde8b5b8077d2d0a5796da6eea3c:038b3819216280c2b 6637440867b8366/manufacturer/1/156145400::145085)

I loose a tiny amount of coolant every so often, it is really not a lot. There is literally water coming from the plug (wires) I've never heard of something like that.
It is not dripping, it is all around the hose. Also I'm getting lean codes.

[customa4]

1) Would having some fresh oil on (and around) the intercooler pipe indicate a leak? I know there is oil inside the intercooler, but I'm talking on the outside, specifically that small L shaped hose (lower) on the drivers side.
2) Why is water leaking from my lower radiator coolant sensor (from the plug specifically)? Can't find any info online + I'm not getting any codes related to it.

There's power steering lines over that area, make sure those aren't leaking.

Your lower radiator coolant sensor also acts as a drain plug for the system. If it's leaking there, I'd say you probably need to replace the o-ring on the sensor. There's no way coolant should be getting through the sensor, only around it if there's not a good seal.

[codemode]

There's power steering lines over that area, make sure those aren't leaking.

Your lower radiator coolant sensor also acts as a drain plug for the system. If it's leaking there, I'd say you probably need to replace the o-ring on the sensor. There's no way coolant should be getting through the sensor, only around it if there's not a good seal.

Oh! I forgot about the O-ring. Will look into that.
My power steering is indeed leaking but that is not the oil I’m seeing. I’m seeing pure engine oil on that hose all around and inside of it.


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[a1rh3adSz]

replaced one rear caliper cause the old one had a rip in the boot. After everything my parking brakes feels kinda loose, nothing crazy. But when i usually pull on the hand brakes it locks pretty good at a lower position but now it goes a bit higher. On the caliper where the round ball hooks at, its kinda loose if the hand brake is not engaged. Is there an adjustment i have to do?

I did yank on the handle like 30 times to see if it will adjust itself.

[fR3ZNO]

replaced one rear caliper cause the old one had a rip in the boot. After everything my parking brakes feels kinda loose, nothing crazy. But when i usually pull on the hand brakes it locks pretty good at a lower position but now it goes a bit higher. On the caliper where the round ball hooks at, its kinda loose if the hand brake is not engaged. Is there an adjustment i have to do?

I did yank on the handle like 30 times to see if it will adjust itself.
The caliper cable end being loose in the lever is normal if the handbrake is not engaged, so no worries there.

It is supposed to be self adjusting, but after replacing a caliper you're supposed to reset the adjuster mechanism.

You have to remove the armrest and rear ashtray to get access to it. Then take a small flat blade screwdriver and then pull the handbrake up quickly a few times.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6CP-5muCPA&ab_channel=Notahowtovideo

[Tahoe3.0]

what is the acceptable level of variation between measuring block 93 phase positions on the 3.0L?

what is too high/low of a number regardless of the other bank?

I seem to remember seeing +/- 6 as being within spec but can't remember where or what motor that was.

[my1stturbo]

Do any of the pillar trim or headliner from a B7 fit into a B6? Sedan to sedan. Quick guess is no, just the seats can be swapped. And should the a B7 rear seat (both the uppers and lower) fit without any issues.

[hightime80]

Everything interior is interchangeable

[my1stturbo]

Everything interior is interchangeable

Ok perfect. Wasn't sure if the headliner and pillars were interchangeable between the B7 and the B6.

[a1rh3adSz]

The caliper cable end being loose in the lever is normal if the handbrake is not engaged, so no worries there.

It is supposed to be self adjusting, but after replacing a caliper you're supposed to reset the adjuster mechanism.

You have to remove the armrest and rear ashtray to get access to it. Then take a small flat blade screwdriver and then pull the handbrake up quickly a few times.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6CP-5muCPA&ab_channel=Notahowtovideo


All good now, everything is reset and perfect. Thank you for the help![:)]

[lunder03]

Probably requires removal of lower bellhousing bolts

Found the issue, there are actually 4 bolts in the rear of the pan which bolt vertically...smaller than the outside two...10 mm socket & extension.

Pulled the motor and found them after. No biggie...replacing pistons and rings and doing a honing job on it anyway. Better on the engine stand.


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[a1rh3adSz]

Okay guys have another issue [>_>]

Used the car today and once i got in the clock/date on the dash started to blink on its own and cycles through the hour, mins, month day and year. With me hitting the + and - or mode will not stop it or do anything. This went on for about 20mins of my drive. I then park and left the car. Came back and its back to normal like nothing had happen. The button work and cycle through everything when i hit the keys.

Anyone know what the deal thats about. Thanks!

[Dr.B6Banter]

Been hearing a whine that sounds like its coming from the trans (center/front of car) for a little bit now. Its speed dependant and only audible close to highway speeds but kind of sounds like straight cut gears. Did a trans fluid change along with the rear diff and havn't noticed a difference in the noise.

Could it be something like the driveshaft carrier bearing as opposed to the trans? Drives completely normally other than that

[my1stturbo]

P1114 is the upstream or downstream O2 sensor? Have that along with P0130 and P0140 though no CEL. Clearing the codes and driving it for a few days but wanted to check. Have an 034 HFC and the P0130 code started about a week after installing that.

And would a code (01809) for a actuating motor cause an issue with heat in the car or is that more for directional airflow?

[customa4]

Which injectors should I be buying for a Frankenturbo F21 Mixed Flow kit? I will be going with a Motoza tune. I know I should be contacting the tuner but I want to get these on order ASAP.


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[old guy]

Bosch 550cc EV14

[customa4]

Bosch 550cc EV14

Sweet, thanks OG. Do I need adapters or anything for these or is it plug n play? I’ll do some searching in the mean time. I feel like these are the same injectors people were buying in sets of 8 and splitting them? Any idea what I should be expecting to pay for a set of 4?

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[old guy]

Sweet, thanks OG. Do I need adapters or anything for these or is it plug n play? I’ll do some searching in the mean time. I feel like these are the same injectors people were buying in sets of 8 and splitting them? Any idea what I should be expecting to pay for a set of 4?



You will need adapters. You can purchase a set of four Bosch 550's with adapters directly from Motoza for around $200.

[customa4]

Perfect. Thanks


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[codemode]

Can running lean (mult) cause a terrible gas milage? (16 MPG)


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[Dr.B6Banter]

Can running lean (mult) cause a terrible gas milage? (16 MPG)


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If you have an exhaust leak before the primary O2 sensor which lets extra air/oxygen into the exhaust the ECU will think it's running lean and correct by adding a bunch of fuel. You should be able to verify by looking at the long term fuel trims and check if it's adding a lot of fuel (should be close to 0% correction and any more than +/- 10% would indicate an issue)

[Dr.B6Banter]

Do people find that the throttle pedal position does not map linearly to engine torque? It almost feels like 75% throttle has better engine response and more torque than flooring it. Almost feels like the engine pulls more timing when WOT and you can "finesse" the throttle to get it to pull less timing... It just ends up leading to a very inconsistent engine response.

I made a little diagram to illustrate what I feel (excuse the crudity lol)
202792

[Deerhurst]

I've felt that in all sorts of engines and all sorts of fueling systems including carborated and TBI.

I haven't done the math on it but I feel it has a lot to do with manifold pressures, particularly in NA engines.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[my1stturbo]

Which direction should the arrow point for the 3 way check valve (07C133529A) point, towards the engine or away? Was crystalized and swapped out with a 3 way splitter but wanted to reinstall a new 1 correctly.

[old guy]

Which direction should the arrow point for the 3 way check valve (07C133529A) point, towards the engine or away? Was crystalized and swapped out with a 3 way splitter but wanted to reinstall a new 1 correctly.

Air always flows toward the intake manifold.

[freeloader700]

Getting a loud pop/clunk when turning into a fairly steep driveway. This is the drivers side and only happens when turning right into the driveway. Does that spring look like it has become unseated?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201024/89ef113fc6ce87c2e19c9977931a4bcf.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[Ol Dirty Noodle]

Your perch is shot, clearly torn

[APC123]

Will an alignment shop be able to adjust my 034 upper control arms for me, or will I have to do them myself

The 034-401-1000 arms

[lmf1978]

i have a 2013 A7 and the lower trip counter (Just above the odometer reading) wont reset nor will my MMI fold in or out with the buttons to the left of the vents. when i push them they light up but do nothing. has anyone experienced this and does anyone know a fix? is it as simple as popping of the vent covers and replacing the module behind or am I missing something obvious as to why these two buttons do nothing lol

[Deerhurst]

i have a 2013 A7 and the lower trip counter (Just above the odometer reading) wont reset nor will my MMI fold in or out with the buttons to the left of the vents. when i push them they light up but do nothing. has anyone experienced this and does anyone know a fix? is it as simple as popping of the vent covers and replacing the module behind or am I missing something obvious as to why these two buttons do nothing lolI know you are new but I have no idea how you equated the B6 A4 sub with a 2013 A7. You are in the wrong place as our cars are not an A7 nor do they have an MMI.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[fR3ZNO]

Will an alignment shop be able to adjust my 034 upper control arms for me, or will I have to do them myself

Depends on the shop. Some are more open to working with aftermarket parts like that and doing adjustments outside of factory recommended specs. If you take it to a big chain, I'm sure they won't want to mess with it, but if you bring it to a more enthusiast friendly shop they'll be more apt to dial them in.

[lmf1978]

just saw heading for "questions to dumb to ask" lol didnt look much further

[APC123]

just saw heading for "questions to dumb to ask" lol didnt look much further

Lol legit we have B6 A4’s we don’t have A7’s so we legitimately don’t know

[Kevin C]

just saw heading for "questions too dumb to ask" lol. I didn't look much further

Awesome answer! [:D]

[twfry]

Is there a way to purchase OEM parts for european model b6's? I've tried searching uk sites but can't find anywhere that will list parts diagrams for european model b6's the same as you would find on parts.audiusa.com or genunieaudiparts.com , etc. I am looking for a few brackets and hoses that are specific to the EU version and not present in our US cars.

The reason is I'd like to install the passenger side DSMIC setup that the european b6's have but the US b6's didn't. From searching it looks that a couple sites offered the EU parts as a kit for sale in the US, but that was years ago and they no longer do.

US b7's have a passenger DSMIC but there are differences requiring the crossbar to be swapped and the air pump hoses to be modified. I'd rather just pull the compatible parts from a b7 (intercooler, bracket, turbo to IC hose), while sourcing b6 compatible OEM parts for the rest (air pump hoses and IC to crossbar hose).

I thought it would be easy to just buy european model parts, but apparently not. Thanks

[Kevin C]

I dont have an easy way to look up parts but I did get the pump bracket from Cars245.

[JAudi23]

How does the window-lock switch work? It can be up or down, but then sometimes the light is on and sometimes it isn't...and I swear every time someone in the back tries their window it's locked.

If the orange light on the button is illuminated ( the button is up), the passenger windows are locked and can only be operated by the drivers switches.

[DvsChild1]

I was just looking at measuring block 139
For cooling temp and it says
G62 sensor -48 degrees C
Is this right?
2003 Audi A4 b6 1.8t amb engine


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[fR3ZNO]

I know it gets cold in Canada, but I don't think you're due for that kind of weather for a few months.

Also, when did you see this in your measuring blocks? At cold start, after it's been running, etc?

Either way, that sounds way too cold for your coolant temp. sensor... I think it might be toast.

[DvsChild1]

I know it gets cold in Canada, but I don't think you're due for that kind of weather for a few months.

Also, when did you see this in your measuring blocks? At cold start, after it's been running, etc?

Either way, that sounds way too cold for your coolant temp. sensor... I think it might be toast.

I just changed the g28 speed sensor because it was gone 16706 code
So I had the car running for a while went for a drive and back to the engine was warm
My gauge is reading fine around half.
In measuring block 1 or 2 the engine temp is fine around 99-102 degrees for g62 sensor
But if I go into measuring block 139. It says -45 degrees.
It’s to my understanding that it is a dual control sensor. Sends a signal to the guage and to the ecu. So I think the gauge part is working fine but the ecu side might not. I do notice that I am burning more gas and I’m getting some hard downshift from 5th gear seems like if it’s going from 5th to 2nd
( automatic) I’m wondering if that has anything to do with it?


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[Deerhurst]

Has anyone managed to solve the honk/leak of the PCV on the 3.0? The PCV is fine but the seal it has to seal into the tube on the back is garbage. I've played with those seals several times, changed to bigger o-rings, etc and it always starts honking again in a month or so. Smoke test always shows it leaking around that O-ring. It makes just enough leak to piss off one of my O2 sensors.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[fR3ZNO]

I just changed the g28 speed sensor because it was gone 16706 code
So I had the car running for a while went for a drive and back to the engine was warm
My gauge is reading fine around half.
In measuring block 1 or 2 the engine temp is fine around 99-102 degrees for g62 sensor
But if I go into measuring block 139. It says -45 degrees.
It’s to my understanding that it is a dual control sensor. Sends a signal to the guage and to the ecu. So I think the gauge part is working fine but the ecu side might not. I do notice that I am burning more gas and I’m getting some hard downshift from 5th gear seems like if it’s going from 5th to 2nd
( automatic) I’m wondering if that has anything to do with it?


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You're correct. The coolant temp sensor has two sides of pins. One goes to the ECU the other goes to the gauge on your cluster. So it does sound like your ECU is reading colder than it actually is and is running rich as result. The hard shifting is a separate issue, I think.

[DvsChild1]

You're correct. The coolant temp sensor has two sides of pins. One goes to the ECU the other goes to the gauge on your cluster. So it does sound like your ECU is reading colder than it actually is and is running rich as result. The hard shifting is a separate issue, I think.

I took the car to a local tranny shop who at first said the hard downshift was due to the valve body. He replaced it with a used one. After that didn’t work he replaced it with a rebuilt one. And after that failed he rebuilt my old one and same thing. So now he said that something is not giving the the ecu or tcm the right signal. Since then I have replaced the tcm, maf sensor, cam position sensor
New coil packs spark plugs etc rebuilt most of the wiring harness (injectors maf coil pack)
Still all to the same result.
I never get a code in any modules transmission/ engine / abs.
That’s why I was hoping maybe it’s the coolant temp sensor.
If I reset the throttle position sensor the car drives great until I hit 5th gear then as it’s slowing down when it gets to around 65 km it down shifts very hard with a bang like if it’s going from 5th to 2nd.
Also if I put it in park and then back to drive or reverse it bangs hard into first gear
But if I do a throttle body alignment it goes away again. ( also replaced the throttle body) Really has me stumped. This has been going on for 5 years now no one I have taken this car to has been able to figure it out. And most of them don’t want me to change the tranny because they don’t want it to have the same result and me spend money for no reason


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[customa4]

You should start your own thread about the topic. You likely won’t get the exposure you need in here to resolve the issue.

[frogspit]

does anyone know what size bolts are used on the rear muffler hangers? Mine appear to be missing and it’s coming into contact with the driveshaft lol. Have gathered that they are removed with a 13mm socket but not any other info on them


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[fR3ZNO]

does anyone know what size bolts are used on the rear muffler hangers? Mine appear to be missing and it’s coming into contact with the driveshaft lol. Have gathered that they are removed with a 13mm socket but not any other info on them


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13mm head usually means it's an M8 bolt.

Edit: muffler hanger uses an M8x30 bolt. The PN for it is N90994402 (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/bolt/n90994402/)

[frogspit]

13mm head usually means it's an M8 bolt.

Edit: muffler hanger uses an M8x30 bolt. The PN for it is N90994402 (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/bolt/n90994402/)

Thank you!


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[codemode]

Is it normal to hear a hissing noise from the rear end passenger side when running a N80 test through VCDS? It is a really loud and continuous noise and can only be heard when running the said test.


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[twfry]

I need to remove one of my front calipers to replace the boots. While the caliper is off is there a way to seal the end of the brake line so fluid does not drain out and to minimize the amount of air that gets in?

Have bleed the brakes without issue before, my concern is removing the caliper will leave the line open for a while which is very different from just bleeding the brakes, and I'm worried about all of the fluid draining out and getting air into the MC or antilock brakes. If there is a way to quickly close the end of the brake line after removing the caliper I could then work on the caliper over a few days. Thanks!

[grayjay]

I need to remove one of my front calipers to replace the boots. While the caliper is off is there a way to seal the end of the brake line so fluid does not drain out and to minimize the amount of air that gets in?

Have bleed the brakes without issue before, my concern is removing the caliper will leave the line open for a while which is very different from just bleeding the brakes, and I'm worried about all of the fluid draining out and getting air into the MC or antilock brakes. If there is a way to quickly close the end of the brake line after removing the caliper I could then work on the caliper over a few days. Thanks!

Sharpen and sand round a chopstick from leftover Chinese take-out , jab it into the line soon as you get the caliper off.

[SoundEfx]

Are there any SAI block off plates for the 3.0 V6 engine? I know there are ones for the 2.7, but I'm doing a 3.0 engine replacement and don't want to deal with the SAI if I don't have to.

[Tahoe3.0]

I’ve read here that the 2.7 ones fit well enough but couldn’t find the thread, so take that for what you will. Nobody makes them specifically for 3.0s that I’ve found.

[DvsChild1]

Sharpen and sand round a chopstick from leftover Chinese take-out , jab it into the line soon as you get the caliper off.

I usually just wrap a cloth around the line and pinch it with vice grips. And make sure it’s facing up



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[SoundEfx]

I’ve read here that the 2.7 ones fit well enough but couldn’t find the thread, so take that for what you will. Nobody makes them specifically for 3.0s that I’ve found.

Thanks. I have a set for the 2.7 so I'll try them out.

[twfry]

I usually just wrap a cloth around the line and pinch it with vice grips. And make sure it’s facing up



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That could work, but I was hoping to not have to pinch the line.

Does anyone know what the treading size is for the brake lines, was hoping that it would be possible to screw a fitting which seals the line.

[Ol Dirty Noodle]

That could work, but I was hoping to not have to pinch the line.

Does anyone know what the treading size is for the brake lines, was hoping that it would be possible to screw a fitting which seals the line.

Just stick a vacuum cap on it with a zip tie and you’ll be fine

[DvsChild1]

I took the car to a local tranny shop who at first said the hard downshift was due to the valve body. He replaced it with a used one. After that didn’t work he replaced it with a rebuilt one. And after that failed he rebuilt my old one and same thing. So now he said that something is not giving the the ecu or tcm the right signal. Since then I have replaced the tcm, maf sensor, cam position sensor
New coil packs spark plugs etc rebuilt most of the wiring harness (injectors maf coil pack)
Still all to the same result.
I never get a code in any modules transmission/ engine / abs.
That’s why I was hoping maybe it’s the coolant temp sensor.
If I reset the throttle position sensor the car drives great until I hit 5th gear then as it’s slowing down when it gets to around 65 km it down shifts very hard with a bang like if it’s going from 5th to 2nd.
Also if I put it in park and then back to drive or reverse it bangs hard into first gear
But if I do a throttle body alignment it goes away again. ( also replaced the throttle body) Really has me stumped. This has been going on for 5 years now no one I have taken this car to has been able to figure it out. And most of them don’t want me to change the tranny because they don’t want it to have the same result and me spend money for no reason


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So I changed the coolant temp sensor and the harness with the same result.
Still reads -45 degrees on measuring block 139.
Can anyone verify what temperature they get on block 139?
Maybe it’s just not used in my car


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[Deerhurst]

So I changed the coolant temp sensor and the harness with the same result.
Still reads -45 degrees on measuring block 139.
Can anyone verify what temperature they get on block 139?
Maybe it’s just not used in my car


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Is the sensor 1 wire? 2 wire? What does it read without the sensor? If -45 is an open it could indicate a damaged wire.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[DvsChild1]

Is the sensor 1 wire? 2 wire? What does it read without the sensor? If -45 is an open it could indicate a damaged wire.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

4 pin
In all other measuring block the sensor reads fine


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[twfry]

Just stick a vacuum cap on it with a zip tie and you’ll be fine

That would work, thanks!

[codemode]

Is it normal to hear a hissing noise from the rear end passenger side when running a N80 test through VCDS? It is a really loud and continuous noise and can only be heard when running the said test.


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Bump


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[Dr.B6Banter]

Have GT28/GTRS elim kits fallen out of favor in recent years? Or have aftermarket T25 manifolds just gotten cheap enough for people to not bother with a BT on the stock 3 bolt manfiold/ downpipe?

I'm casually looking around for a turbo option to install next year. I already have a k04 with supporting mods and it's fun in the city but still falls on its face up top like the stock turbo, so I'm interested in something that can hold boost to redline while still being stock rod friendly. I'm aware that it's torque that hurts the stock rods and an aggressive k04/f21 setup could still bend rods too but it's my daily and I don't want to go down the rabbit hole of upgrading the internals.

A lot of people seem to agree that a GT28/GTRS setup is how the car should have come from the factory and I know many people that ran them conservatively on stock rods without issues but I just don't see any of these setups on the classifieds/ locally so I'm wondering if the "meta" for this class of power has changed to a different type of turbo (F21 or other hybrid k04 more popular now?)

[Jakal]

Car is misfiring like crazy. Just put in some new spark plugs, but no change. Started looking for broken check valves/vacuum lines and came across this little one. But for the life of me I can’t figure out where it goes (doesn’t help that it’s dark out). I have to run off, so I was hoping maybe someone knew exactly where this leads into while I’m gone. (Previous owner did the RTV job, don’t judge lol) 206862

[wangerang]

Is there a vac line diagram on the hood? There's one in my b5. Maybe on the b6 as well?


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[fR3ZNO]

Car is misfiring like crazy. Just put in some new spark plugs, but no change. Started looking for broken check valves/vacuum lines and came across this little one. But for the life of me I can’t figure out where it goes (doesn’t help that it’s dark out). I have to run off, so I was hoping maybe someone knew exactly where this leads into while I’m gone. (Previous owner did the RTV job, don’t judge lol)

I don’t recall exactly where it leads but it’s a check valve that allows air into the manifold but not out. So if it’s broken, it’ll be allowing unmetered air into the manifold when under vacuum and a boost leak under boost.

Pulling in unmetered air will definitely cause a misfire. Judging by the RTV, it’s probably busted and I’d replace it anyway. Should be able to find one off the shelf at an auto parts store for a quick fix. Otherwise, Kynar Plastics check valves are a popular fix for the pricey Audi check valves.

Edit: it’s #15 in the diagram:

https://www.audiforums.com/forum/attachments/b5-models-69/25558d1501206733-full-vacuum-hose-replacement-diy-w-pics-vacuum_diagram_amb_motor.jpg

[SoundEfx]

I already know the answer, but I'm just going to ask to share the utter madness......lol.

I am trying to buy new down pipes for my 3.0 A4 and a seller wants me to pay for it using ONLY a 'Friends and family' form of payment that his wife owns. Plus their audizine, paypal and email address name don't match.
The question is, should I trust this seller who claims to be 100% trust worthy? Keep in mind that they are not willing to send me the pipe and receive payment AFTER I have possession.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

[Deerhurst]

I already know the answer, but I'm just going to ask to share the utter madness......lol.

I am trying to buy new down pipes for my 3.0 A4 and a seller wants me to pay for it using ONLY a 'Friends and family' form of payment that his wife owns. Plus their audizine, paypal and email address name don't match.
The question is, should I trust this seller who claims to be 100% trust worthy? Keep in mind that they are not willing to send me the pipe and receive payment AFTER I have possession.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!I don't think I would. I'm biased against paypal too. Never had any good dealings with them. The differences in account, paypal and email are red flags to me.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[Dr.B6Banter]

I already know the answer, but I'm just going to ask to share the utter madness......lol.

I am trying to buy new down pipes for my 3.0 A4 and a seller wants me to pay for it using ONLY a 'Friends and family' form of payment that his wife owns. Plus their audizine, paypal and email address name don't match.
The question is, should I trust this seller who claims to be 100% trust worthy? Keep in mind that they are not willing to send me the pipe and receive payment AFTER I have possession.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

I feel like wanting payment before sending out the part isn't unreasonable but the weird payment method is sketchy. Always use something has good buyer protection when doing this kind of stuff.

[Spike00513]

I already know the answer, but I'm just going to ask to share the utter madness......lol.

I am trying to buy new down pipes for my 3.0 A4 and a seller wants me to pay for it using ONLY a 'Friends and family' form of payment that his wife owns. Plus their audizine, paypal and email address name don't match.
The question is, should I trust this seller who claims to be 100% trust worthy? Keep in mind that they are not willing to send me the pipe and receive payment AFTER I have possession.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

I mean normally a seller would just ask that you pay an extra couple bucks to cover the invoice charge

[SoundEfx]

I mean normally a seller would just ask that you pay an extra couple bucks to cover the invoice charge

This was the LAST straw for me because I offered to pay the fees PLUS pay extra to have it shipped quickly, but they refused and only wants payment through the 'Friend and Family' option.

[SoundEfx]

I feel like wanting payment before sending out the part isn't unreasonable but the weird payment method is sketchy. Always use something has good buyer protection when doing this kind of stuff.

Of course not, that's how almost EVERY transaction happens. I have my money waving it around like a mad man trying to get this car back on the road, but that doesn't mean I'll simply hand it over, basically in an envelope and wait patiently hoping that I get what I 'so called' paid for.....lol.

- - - Updated - - -


I don't think I would. I'm biased against paypal too. Never had any good dealings with them. The differences in account, paypal and email are red flags to me.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

What do you normally use?

[Lauri0112]

Power steering fluid. Which is correct? A or B. Just had my rack rebuilt and the shop filled the reservoir to the top. ( B ) Is that correct?? [:/]

https://www.upload.ee/image/12548153/Cap2.jpg

[a4audi4fun]

@Lauri0112 - forums I've seen say to fill to the left edge of the letter M in the MAX lettering.

[grayjay]

[QUOTE=Lauri0112;14354741]Power steering fluid. Which is correct? A or B. Just had my rack rebuilt and the shop filled the reservoir to the top. ( B ) Is that correct?? [:/]

Just to the "A" max line. Turkey baster or use a thin plastic hose to siphon a bit of fluid out to bring the level down. It needs a bit or room in the tank for fluid to expand as it heats and bubbles. Too much fluid and it is likely to squirt out the vent in top of the cap.

[Dr.B6Banter]

Quick question about swapping B7 brakes into my B6 A4. A B7 just recently popped up at a local yard and I'm looking at getting it's callipers and carriers to swap onto my car (new rotors and pads). From what I've read the front end is a complete bolt-on and should fit within most 17" wheels (requires B7 caliper, carrier, 320mm rotor, and pads).

What I want to know is whether the rears are the same situation? As in if I get the B7's caliper and carrier and new pads and 288mm rotors, would it all bolt up and work with the B6 dust shield and more importantly e-brake cable? There seem to be fewer people swapping the rears.

[BerlinerB6]

Quick question about swapping B7 brakes into my B6 A4. A B7 just recently popped up at a local yard and I'm looking at getting it's callipers and carriers to swap onto my car (new rotors and pads). From what I've read the front end is a complete bolt-on and should fit within most 17" wheels (requires B7 caliper, carrier, 320mm rotor, and pads).

What I want to know is whether the rears are the same situation? As in if I get the B7's caliper and carrier and new pads and 288mm rotors, would it all bolt up and work with the B6 dust shield and more importantly e-brake cable? There seem to be fewer people swapping the rears.

Did my full swap over the summer. Like you said, fronts were direct bolt-on. For the rears, I had to cut away the rear corners of the dust shields to clear the carriers. Maybe an inch of material at each corner, it'll be obvious if you test fit the carriers without the rotors on. Other than that, I had to bend the shields a little to clear the rotors. Didn't take much pressure, just used a small pry bar between the rotors and shields. Since you've hopefully got access to the B7, you could just grab all the dust shields for a nice factory installation.
As far as the B6 e-brake cables go, I had to replace mine at the same time due to them being seized. No issues hooking them up to the B7 calipers and I'm pretty sure I used all the factory retaining points.
I paired the larger brakes with brembo pads and rotors along with stainless brake lines (factory rubber was shot so why not?), definitely inspires more confidence, even when braking from country road speeds!

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[Kevin C]

Have GT28/GTRS elim kits fallen out of favor in recent years? Or have aftermarket T25 manifolds just gotten cheap enough for people to not bother with a BT on the stock 3 bolt manfiold/ downpipe?

I'm casually looking around for a turbo option to install next year. I already have a k04 with supporting mods and it's fun in the city but still falls on its face up top like the stock turbo, so I'm interested in something that can hold boost to redline while still being stock rod friendly. I'm aware that it's torque that hurts the stock rods and an aggressive k04/f21 setup could still bend rods too but it's my daily and I don't want to go down the rabbit hole of upgrading the internals.

A lot of people seem to agree that a GT28/GTRS setup is how the car should have come from the factory and I know many people that ran them conservatively on stock rods without issues but I just don't see any of these setups on the classifieds/ locally so I'm wondering if the "meta" for this class of power has changed to a different type of turbo (F21 or other hybrid k04 more popular now?)

I'm going with a B7 K04. The manifold adaptor is on order and should arrive next week. The B7 K04 is a signifigant improvement over the B6 version. A reasonable expectation is to hold 18 to 20 psi to redline with good spool, more is possible, but that is my current goal. Also, this should bolt up and look very stock and with any luck deliver an easy 260 to 300 whp. The B7 flange conversion make turbo swap a lot easier.

That's my plan.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0005/7773/2663/products/CTS-TR-1070-6_1024x1024.jpg?v=1573247275

https://www.cbauto.co.uk/images/thumbs/0000169_k04-064-tfsi-to-18t-adaptor-plate.jpeg

https://www.urotuning.com/products/cts-turbo-borgwarner-k04-turbo-upgrade-kit-b7-a4-2-0-cts-b7-2-0fsi-k04kit-nocat?variant=31162237288503

https://www.cbauto.co.uk/k04-064-tfsi-to-18t-adaptor-plate

[Dr.B6Banter]

Did my full swap over the summer. Like you said, fronts were direct bolt-on. For the rears, I had to cut away the rear corners of the dust shields to clear the carriers. Maybe an inch of material at each corner, it'll be obvious if you test fit the carriers without the rotors on. Other than that, I had to bend the shields a little to clear the rotors. Didn't take much pressure, just used a small pry bar between the rotors and shields. Since you've hopefully got access to the B7, you could just grab all the dust shields for a nice factory installation.
As far as the B6 e-brake cables go, I had to replace mine at the same time due to them being seized. No issues hooking them up to the B7 calipers and I'm pretty sure I used all the factory retaining points.
I paired the larger brakes with brembo pads and rotors along with stainless brake lines (factory rubber was shot so why not?), definitely inspires more confidence, even when braking from country road speeds!

Sent from my IN2015 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info! looks like it's a pretty painless swap. Did you have to just bend the rear dust shields or all of them? I'd be inclined to just toss them if they didn't fit but for a DD they're nice to stop water from getting on the disks and reducing their initial bite.


I'm going with a B7 K04. The manifold adaptor is on order and should arrive next week. The B7 K04 is a signifigant improvement over the B6 version. A reasonable expectation is to hold 18 to 20 psi to redline with good spool, more is possible, but that is my current goal. Also, this should bolt up and look very stock and with any luck deliver an easy 260 to 300 whp. The B7 flange conversion make turbo swap a lot easier.

That's my plan.

https://www.urotuning.com/products/cts-turbo-borgwarner-k04-turbo-upgrade-kit-b7-a4-2-0-cts-b7-2-0fsi-k04kit-nocat?variant=31162237288503

https://www.cbauto.co.uk/k04-064-tfsi-to-18t-adaptor-plate

Wow, this is the first time I'm hearing of this type of swap... It's particularly good timing because someone I know just got a B7 Avant with a supposedly blown turbo because it smoked a bunch but we believe it to just be an issue with the PCV system. In any case, his purchase came with a spare k04 which he does not plan to use unless necessary so that would be an interesting avenue for me to explore.

What are your plans for the downpipe? custom fabricated or does the manifold adapter come with something that adapts from the 4 bolt fsi outlet to the 3 bolt 1.8t downpipe?

[BerlinerB6]

Thanks for the info! looks like it's a pretty painless swap. Did you have to just bend the rear dust shields or all of them? I'd be inclined to just toss them if they didn't fit but for a DD they're nice to stop water from getting on the disks and reducing their initial bite.

I think I just bent the rears a little, but maybe also the fronts? Not enough for me to remember doing it at least. Certainly no cutting on the fronts.
For bending the rears, it's easy enough that I just used a little 8" or so pry bar. You could honestly do it by hand with gloves on.

As far as painless swap, I forgot to mention I ended up having to cut back the rear hard lines and flare up extensions due to rusted fittings. But the car was in the rust belt its whole life as far as I know.

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[Dr.B6Banter]

I think I just bent the rears a little, but maybe also the fronts? Not enough for me to remember doing it at least. Certainly no cutting on the fronts.
For bending the rears, it's easy enough that I just used a little 8" or so pry bar. You could honestly do it by hand with gloves on.

As far as painless swap, I forgot to mention I ended up having to cut back the rear hard lines and flare up extensions due to rusted fittings. But the car was in the rust belt its whole life as far as I know.

Sent from my IN2015 using Tapatalk

If I understand correctly, the fronts have a metal line on the body which then goes into a rubber section then back into metal before going into the caliper? However, for the rears from when I replaced one of the lines this summer, it went straight from the metal line on the body to a rubber line that connected to the caliper directly.

Did you have to do all that because the B7 callipers require B7 rubber lines that go to the B6 hard lines? I was under the impression that the B6 rubber lines bolted straight up to the B7 callipers.

Edit: I just realized that you said you were replacing the rubber lines with braided ones hence having to redo the metal line because the nut between the metal and rubber line perished I'm guessing. We're on the same page now lol.

[BerlinerB6]

If I understand correctly, the fronts have a metal line on the body which then goes into a rubber section then back into metal before going into the caliper? However, for the rears from when I replaced one of the lines this summer, it went straight from the metal line on the body to a rubber line that connected to the caliper directly.

Did you have to do all that because the B7 callipers require B7 rubber lines that go to the B6 hard lines? I was under the impression that the B6 rubber lines bolted straight up to the B7 callipers.

Edit: I just realized that you said you were replacing the rubber lines with braided ones hence having to redo the metal line because the nut between the metal and rubber line perished I'm guessing. We're on the same page now lol.

Yeah, I had planned to do braided lines anyway, but I was shocked at how bad the rubber lines were when I took everything apart. Had the rubber lines been fine, I would have just swapped out the calipers to avoid working on the hard lines. Driver's side rear hard line fitting was actually missing a chunk!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/472fb157714289f7bf3b7e4632dc0e37.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/b59951225cefbdefa0493a5b44c08839.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/8533c643d84fc7b768b5bf02d8bd8386.jpg

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[Deerhurst]

Wow! Lotta surface rust! Where are you from?

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[Kevin C]

Thanks for the info! looks like it's a pretty painless swap. Did you have to just bend the rear dust shields or all of them? I'd be inclined to just toss them if they didn't fit but for a DD they're nice to stop water from getting on the disks and reducing their initial bite.



Wow, this is the first time I'm hearing of this type of swap... It's particularly good timing because someone I know just got a B7 Avant with a supposedly blown turbo because it smoked a bunch but we believe it to just be an issue with the PCV system. In any case, his purchase came with a spare k04 which he does not plan to use unless necessary so that would be an interesting avenue for me to explore.

What are your plans for the downpipe? custom fabricated or does the manifold adapter come with something that adapts from the 4 bolt fsi outlet to the 3 bolt 1.8t downpipe?

Buy a flange and weld one up or buy a hi flow B7 cat and down pipe. I was told that I will also need a right side B7 motor mount bracket. I have one waiting with a fresh set of mounts. I'm just test fitting parts this week. Pretty exited about the swap. Especially since it makes turbo swaps a lot easier. Even the B7 K03 is a good upgrade over the B6 K03.

I will post the details as I go.

[BerlinerB6]

Wow! Lotta surface rust! Where are you from?

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT QuattroI'm in MA, car spent its life in NY, MI, and IL before I bought it a few years ago. Rear arches have the most surface rust of anywhere on the body (other than the load floor cover over the gas tank for some reason). I cleaned and scrubbed as much rust as I could access before spraying with rust converter and clear coat. Also gave the wheel well liners a thorough cleaning before installing. My company is wfh till June at least at this point, so hopefully it'll be fine for this winter. I'll take another crack at it in the spring.
Down the road, I'm planning on replacing or fully descaling and repainting both subframes, but that'll have to wait a few more years for the house purchase. My landlord is pretty understanding about my wrenching habits, but I think he'd draw the line at driveline disassembly [emoji23]
Fwiw, my previous two cars (Saab and Volvo) were only a few years older and waaaay worse rust-wise without leaving the Northeast

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[Dr.B6Banter]

Did my full swap over the summer. Like you said, fronts were direct bolt-on. For the rears, I had to cut away the rear corners of the dust shields to clear the carriers. Maybe an inch of material at each corner, it'll be obvious if you test fit the carriers without the rotors on. Other than that, I had to bend the shields a little to clear the rotors. Didn't take much pressure, just used a small pry bar between the rotors and shields. Since you've hopefully got access to the B7, you could just grab all the dust shields for a nice factory installation.
As far as the B6 e-brake cables go, I had to replace mine at the same time due to them being seized. No issues hooking them up to the B7 calipers and I'm pretty sure I used all the factory retaining points.
I paired the larger brakes with brembo pads and rotors along with stainless brake lines (factory rubber was shot so why not?), definitely inspires more confidence, even when braking from country road speeds!

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Yeah, I had planned to do braided lines anyway, but I was shocked at how bad the rubber lines were when I took everything apart. Had the rubber lines been fine, I would have just swapped out the calipers to avoid working on the hard lines. Driver's side rear hard line fitting was actually missing a chunk!

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Yikes, that could have been really bad had you not checked it...

I just got back from the yard and got a good haul. I wanted to get all 4 calipers, carriers rotors, and pads since the rotors and pads were in good enough condition to be run over the winter, but the rear lower carrier bolt was in a tight spot and I stripped it so rather than waste a bunch of time-fighting with it I called it a day with just the fronts and I'll get to the rears next year.

207591207592

[Deerhurst]

You guys have all the cool yards!

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[my1stturbo]

Do I need to remove the A and B pillars trim to remove the C pillar?

[Deerhurst]

Rear wiper on the avant went full possessed today. It wipes the rear window when I accelerate at any decent rate or if I touch the brakes in reverse like backing into my garage. If I'm just cruising at a constant speed it doesn't move. Basically just acceleration does it.

It still responds to the stalk and the stalk overrides its possession.

WTF?!?!


UPDATE: Started pulling the rear hatch trim. It didnt want to come off for anything but it looks all dry back there. We did have heavy rain on Monday and I tried to squirt the rear window with no luck yesterday and assumed Im out of washer fluid. My windshield washer nozzles clog all the time so those are all clogged and useless.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[JAudi23]

Do I need to remove the A and B pillars trim to remove the C pillar?Are you referring to a sedan or an Avant?


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[my1stturbo]

Are you referring to a sedan or an Avant?


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A sedan. Want to get to the sub on the rear deck and install some dynamat as well.

[Deerhurst]

Pulled the rear hatch lower cover off. The plug for the rear wiper was wet. Dried it out. Might be water inside still.

It seems to do fine after sitting in the garage over night then when sitting outside in the cold fog all day it acts up. Was doing better after I dried out the plug but still acting up sometimes.

Any input?

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[OMG_SHARK]

What's the torque spec for the accessory drive idler pulley for 1.8T?

[Dr.B6Banter]

Someone I know locally just got a B7 parts car to fix up their B7 Avant, but won't need much off it. I'm wondering other than the brakes is there anything that is a swap-worthy item? It is a 6 speed so that would be nice to put in my car but it's getting cold and I don't have a garage so I don't want to delve into that rabbit hole just yet.

I already have a B7 center console in my car and I'm thinking about getting the black leather power seats and door cards to slightly un-beige my interior. I know the seats are a direct bolt-on but would my car have the connectors for the full power seats even though mine is just power lumbar?

[BerlinerB6]

I know the seats are a direct bolt-on but would my car have the connectors for the full power seats even though mine is just power lumbar?

I had driver's full power and passenger power lumbar in my 2004 before swapping in B7 Recaros. Passenger side was pre-wired for everything on the body side. Driver side I just had to run 2 extra wires for the seat memory retrofit.
I do still need to replace the passenger seat fuse (on lower A-panel connector station) with a larger one to handle full power. I'm guessing driver side you'd need to do the same. I think it goes from 15A (lumbar only) to 30A, but not positive on that.
Attached pics are the body side connectors for my driver (yellow on left) and passenger (yellow on right) seats before the swap. If yours look the same, I think you're good other than the fuse updates.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201207/47d2b127b7db2eb24a26e23de83b403c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201207/d45ff1b940f889717933f2a8976937c4.jpg

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[Dr.B6Banter]

I had driver's full power and passenger power lumbar in my 2004 before swapping in B7 Recaros. Passenger side was pre-wired for everything on the body side. Driver side I just had to run 2 extra wires for the seat memory retrofit.
I do still need to replace the passenger seat fuse (on lower A-panel connector station) with a larger one to handle full power. I'm guessing driver side you'd need to do the same. I think it goes from 15A (lumbar only) to 30A, but not positive on that.
Attached pics are the body side connectors for my driver (yellow on left) and passenger (yellow on right) seats before the swap. If yours look the same, I think you're good other than the fuse updates.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201207/47d2b127b7db2eb24a26e23de83b403c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201207/d45ff1b940f889717933f2a8976937c4.jpg

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Awesome! thanks for the photos!

If your passenger sides were just power lumbar stock yet were wired for power everything on the body harness side I'd say I'm fine but I won't know till I take my seat off to inspect.

Were there any other parts that would be worth swapping from a B7 into a B6?

[Kevin C]

I learned that fuse upgrade issue the hard way the first time I extended the power seat on the passenger side all the way back. Other thatn the fuse problem my B6 took the passenger side power seat upgrade perfectly (B6 seats from a V6).

[Dr.B6Banter]

I learned that fuse upgrade issue the hard way the first time I extended the power seat on the passenger side all the way back. Other thatn the fuse problem my B6 took the passenger side power seat upgrade perfectly (B6 seats from a V6).

That's good to hear!

Any other items worth swapping from a B7 from the top of your head?

I'm also thinking about swapping the black center console since the B7 center console in my car was beige to match the interior but the black one might match the black seats and door cards better.

[Der Konig]

That's good to hear!

Any other items worth swapping from a B7 from the top of your head?

I'm also thinking about swapping the black center console since the B7 center console in my car was beige to match the interior but the black one might match the black seats and door cards better.Most likely will also need vcds to reset the occupancy sensor for the airbag.

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[BerlinerB6]

I'm also thinking about swapping the black center console since the B7 center console in my car was beige to match the interior but the black one might match the black seats and door cards better.

Two-tone can definitely work in these cars if there's enough to tie it together.

I think there's an extra card holder or something in place of the B6 cup holder. Not sure how useful it would be. Also some other buttons to the left of that, though those would only be useful if you're retrofitting options.

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[Dr.B6Banter]

Most likely will also need vcds to reset the occupancy sensor for the airbag.

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Yeah I do have a vcds cable to reset codes if need be or do you mean recoding a control module? I figured doing everything while the battery is disconnected would make sure the car didn't get upset about airbag-related things getting disconnected.


Two-tone can definitely work in these cars if there's enough to tie it together.

I think there's an extra card holder or something in place of the B6 cup holder. Not sure how useful it would be. Also some other buttons to the left of that, though those would only be useful if you're retrofitting options.

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Yes, I did notice the B7 having 2 card holders for whatever reason... I do agree that the 2 tone look could work if done properly. The trim higher up in the car like the upper part of the dash and the upper trim pieces all seem to be more of a grey color where the beige is more in the seats, carpets and lower trims, so I think black seats, center console and door cards with the stock light cream on the dash and headliner may work...

I'm in the process of swapping in a MFSW from a B8.5 which is black which sparked this thought of getting the black interior from the B7.

209778209779209780

[a4audi4fun]

Rear wiper on the avant went full possessed today. It wipes the rear window when I accelerate at any decent rate or if I touch the brakes in reverse like backing into my garage. If I'm just cruising at a constant speed it doesn't move. Basically just acceleration does it.

It still responds to the stalk and the stalk overrides its possession.

WTF?!?!


UPDATE: Started pulling the rear hatch trim. It didnt want to come off for anything but it looks all dry back there. We did have heavy rain on Monday and I tried to squirt the rear window with no luck yesterday and assumed Im out of washer fluid. My windshield washer nozzles clog all the time so those are all clogged and useless.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

Audi's rear wiper motor design is bad since the washer feed pipe passes through the motor module. My 2008 eventually had random wiper operation, not stopping properly in the park position and not spraying properly even though the nozzle jets were not clogged. When I checked the motor, you could see corrosion from where fluid was weeping. Replacement of the whole rear washer motor fixed my problems.

[Deerhurst]

Audi's rear wiper motor design is bad since the washer feed pipe passes through the motor module. My 2008 eventually had random wiper operation, not stopping properly in the park position and not spraying properly even though the nozzle jets were not clogged. When I checked the motor, you could see corrosion from where fluid was weeping. Replacement of the whole rear washer motor fixed my problems.I took the hatch panel off and found some liquid in there. Dried the thing out and it seem to be cooperating for now. Don't really want to replace it.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[a4audi4fun]

@Deerhurst - I didn't want to replace either but it eventually stopped working completely so had to be replaced [:D] - hopefully yours will continue functioning for much longer than mine did

[Deerhurst]

@Deerhurst - I didn't want to replace either but it eventually stopped working completely so had to be replaced [:D] - hopefully yours will continue functioning for much longer than mine didAs long as it doesn't go full retard I can deal with it.

That reminds me, I now have issues with all of my squirters.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[Der Konig]

Yeah I do have a vcds cable to reset codes if need be or do you mean recoding a control module? I figured doing everything while the battery is disconnected would make sure the car didn't get upset about airbag-related things getting disconnected.



Yes, I did notice the B7 having 2 card holders for whatever reason... I do agree that the 2 tone look could work if done properly. The trim higher up in the car like the upper part of the dash and the upper trim pieces all seem to be more of a grey color where the beige is more in the seats, carpets and lower trims, so I think black seats, center console and door cards with the stock light cream on the dash and headliner may work...

I'm in the process of swapping in a MFSW from a B8.5 which is black which sparked this thought of getting the black interior from the B7.

209778209779209780Hey didn't notice you responded. I did the same but it needed the module from the new seat to be introduced to the body control module essentially. Relearn the unoccupied signal. Its an adaptation you have to do, or at least I did.

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[a1rh3adSz]

any place/sites that sell the whole control arm kit just for the front right passenger side? I just need to change that side cause the car clunks over bumps and i can feel it through the steering wheel and also it squeaks over bumps and tight turns.

[Dr.B6Banter]

I learned that fuse upgrade issue the hard way the first time I extended the power seat on the passenger side all the way back. Other thatn the fuse problem my B6 took the passenger side power seat upgrade perfectly (B6 seats from a V6).

We pretty much had the same thing happen today lol. After getting the B7 seats in we were playing with the power functionality and all of a sudden they stopped working and I remembered your message. I replaced the middle fuse from that photo with a 30 amp fuse because the stock one was a 15 or 20 amp fuse that had blown out. Strangely enough, the driver's side seat started working again, however the passenger seat was still not working, and it was stuck in the most Honda Civic leaned back position possible lol. Are there individual fuses for the driver and passenger seats?

210632

Strangely enough, my center fuse was not those large style fuses but a traditional colored plastic one. Since the receptacle was made for the smaller body fuse I could not put in the heavy-duty fuse from the B7 designed for those seats.

210635210636210637210638210639


Hey didn't notice you responded. I did the same but it needed the module from the new seat to be introduced to the body control module essentially. Relearn the unoccupied signal. Its an adaptation you have to do, or at least I did.

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I have not gotten any airbag codes as of yet, so I suspected everything's fine? I'll have to do a vcds scan tomorrow to double check.

[BerlinerB6]

Are there individual fuses for the driver and passenger seats?

Strangely enough, my center fuse was not those large style fuses but a traditional colored plastic one. Since the receptacle was made for the smaller body fuse I could not put in the heavy-duty fuse from the B7 designed for those seats.

There are individual fuses for the front seats, the passenger one is at the bottom of the passenger A pillar (behind the front door sill trim). I thought I had a picture from my Recaro swap but I can only find the driver side connector station. Anyway, it's on the side facing the rear of the car (slots above the blue connector in the picture). https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201213/fd1a70cd0576c696ba25968d4057c316.jpg

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[Dr.B6Banter]

There are individual fuses for the front seats, the passenger one is at the bottom of the passenger A pillar (behind the front door sill trim). I thought I had a picture from my Recaro swap but I can only find the driver side connector station. Anyway, it's on the side facing the rear of the car (slots above the blue connector in the picture). https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201213/fd1a70cd0576c696ba25968d4057c316.jpg

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Yep, just looked it up to find a photo and it is exactly where you described it. I'll replace it when I replace the glovebox and center console since I'll be in that general area anyways.

[fR3ZNO]

210638

lol, I'm running black seats in a tan interior as well. I've been wanting to start changing over to a full black interior, but need to find a donor vehicle like you did first.

[Dr.B6Banter]

lol, I'm running black seats in a tan interior as well. I've been wanting to start changing over to a full black interior, but need to find a donor vehicle like you did first.

I was contemplating pulling the black carpet because that would be the only tan item on the lower half of the interior. If we had time to swap the center console, that would be pretty much the last item stopping the carpet from coming up, but we didn't and I got the black floor mats which cover like 80% of the tan carpet underneath anyways. We did replace the B pillar trim and the trim around the doors and rear seats so it was a pretty complete transfer. I just need to install the trunk full of parts we didn't get to like the center console and glovebox.


On a separate note, is the N75 duty cycle purely dependant on the difference between actual and requested boost, or is there a predetermined table to define duty cycle based on RPM and load?
I ask because after replacing my K04 over the summer, I've had to install an MBC in parallel with the N75 because I was getting major boost spikes in the mid-range (25+psi). With the N75 disconnected (electrically) I only saw around 5psi which is normal spring pressures so that leads me to believe the WG actuator is properly tensioned and not sticking.
Around the same time, I also uninstalled the cast high flow manifold and reverted back to the stock manifold because it cracked.

If there is an N75 duty table that was set very aggressive in the mid-range to spool better on the high flow cast manifold, that would explain the boost spikes with the stock manifold, but I'm just not sure if such a table exists. This is mostly out of curiosity because I've got the boost dialed with the MBC to spike just a hair over 20psi now and this setup likely won't stay for very much longer anyways.

[grayjay]

If there is an N75 duty table that was set very aggressive in the mid-range to spool better on the high flow cast manifold, that would explain the boost spikes with the stock manifold, but I'm just not sure if such a table exists. This is mostly out of curiosity because I've got the boost dialed with the MBC to spike just a hair over 20psi now and this setup likely won't stay for very much longer anyways.

Our Bosch ECUs uses the technique of proportional–integral–derivative controller (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller) (PID control) to control "overshoot" of boost. Search nefmoto for "PID control" for numerous treads on tuning of PID.

[Dr.B6Banter]

Our Bosch ECUs uses the technique of proportional–integral–derivative controller (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller) (PID control) to control "overshoot" of boost. Search nefmoto for "PID control" for numerous treads on tuning of PID.

Interesting, from a quick search it seems like there are boost control PID maps in the ECU that guys are changing to tune the boost response for their specific turbo setup... I'll have to look into that more. Thanks for the info!

[SchmidtA4]

Hey folks, dumb(ish?) question here,

I've got a '03 A4 B6 1.8T 5spd Manual with 203k on it, and I've got a misfire on Cyl#2. Misfire started after being brought back outside to 20degree or less temps after being inside a 40degree garage overnight. Normally is parked outside. I dumped some isopropyl in thinking that maybe it was ice in the fuel or otherwise crummy fuel, but no change. Misfire occurred at 2k - 3kRPM and at idle only to start with. Ran a couple tanks of fuel through it since it first happened and its only gotten worse.

I replaced the sparks at 178k and coils round 185k. Injectors are fresh as well at 185k. I tried swapping injectors, sparks, and coils from cyl#2 to other cyls to see if the misfire moved, but to no avail. I also did a compression test, and all 4 cylinders reached at 85-95psi on first compression and peaked at 100-110psi after 3 compressions. Also checked each spark plug to ensure that there was an actual spark on each compression, along with actually gapping each plug and finding no red flags. When I pulled the sparks, I noticed that some had considerable amounts of oil on the coilpacks and on the actual plugs when I swapped plugs and coils, including the misfiring cylinder spark plug. I cleaned both off with electric parts cleaner and let the juice flash off before putting it all back together. When I did the compression test later on, there was even more oil. Have not checked for a boost or vacuum leak yet.

Was driving back home (away from most of my tools and shop of course) when it started continuously misfiring on cly#2. Got it parked and restarted to see if the misfire would go back to being interment, but no luck. Could this oil, presumably from a valve cover gasket, be the cause of the misfire? If so, why is it only on cly#2, when there was oil on #1, and #4 too? Anyone got a good thread to direct me to on diving into the gasket if that's the case? Any other places for me to look? Going to do an idiot check first and reswap plugs, injectors, and coils to make sure my code reader isn't leading me on a wild goose chase.

Thanks in advance,
SchmidtA4

[Dr.B6Banter]

Hey folks, dumb(ish?) question here,

I've got a '03 A4 B6 1.8T 5spd Manual with 203k on it, and I've got a misfire on Cyl#2. Misfire started after being brought back outside to 20degree or less temps after being inside a 40degree garage overnight. Normally is parked outside. I dumped some isopropyl in thinking that maybe it was ice in the fuel or otherwise crummy fuel, but no change. Misfire occurred at 2k - 3kRPM and at idle only to start with. Ran a couple tanks of fuel through it since it first happened and its only gotten worse.

I replaced the sparks at 178k and coils round 185k. Injectors are fresh as well at 185k. I tried swapping injectors, sparks, and coils from cyl#2 to other cyls to see if the misfire moved, but to no avail. I also did a compression test, and all 4 cylinders reached at 85-95psi on first compression and peaked at 100-110psi after 3 compressions. Also checked each spark plug to ensure that there was an actual spark on each compression, along with actually gapping each plug and finding no red flags. When I pulled the sparks, I noticed that some had considerable amounts of oil on the coilpacks and on the actual plugs when I swapped plugs and coils, including the misfiring cylinder spark plug. I cleaned both off with electric parts cleaner and let the juice flash off before putting it all back together. When I did the compression test later on, there was even more oil. Have not checked for a boost or vacuum leak yet.

Was driving back home (away from most of my tools and shop of course) when it started continuously misfiring on cly#2. Got it parked and restarted to see if the misfire would go back to being interment, but no luck. Could this oil, presumably from a valve cover gasket, be the cause of the misfire? If so, why is it only on cly#2, when there was oil on #1, and #4 too? Anyone got a good thread to direct me to on diving into the gasket if that's the case? Any other places for me to look? Going to do an idiot check first and reswap plugs, injectors, and coils to make sure my code reader isn't leading me on a wild goose chase.

Thanks in advance,
SchmidtA4

If there is oil pooling in the spark plug wells, the valve cover gasket should be changed regardless of the misfiring issue. Motor oil is not particularly electrically conductive so I doubt the oil is creating a short between the coil pack and ground but I suspect there are other ways the oil could inhibit a proper spark. I can't think of anything else that could be causing the misfire especially since you've already tested for spark, fuel, and compression.

[SchmidtA4]

If there is oil pooling in the spark plug wells, the valve cover gasket should be changed regardless of the misfiring issue. Motor oil is not particularly electrically conductive so I doubt the oil is creating a short between the coil pack and ground but I suspect there are other ways the oil could inhibit a proper spark. I can't think of anything else that could be causing the misfire especially since you've already tested for spark, fuel, and compression.

So earlier today I got a chance to rerun the test of swapping sparks, coils, and injectors and lone behold my code reader did send me on a wild goose chase. Today was also the first day it has been run in temps above freezing in probably a month, and the misfire went away after coming up to temp at idle, but would occur while driving under load. The first test I did was swapping coils and I got the misfire to move. What a relief!

I'm thinking that since the oil was pretty filthy as it had been hanging around for a hot minute or so, it got enough conductive grit to knock down the angry pixies in the spark. Since I observed the issue to be heat related since it reduced in frequency after the engine was up to temp, I am assuming that the either the oil heating up caused its resistance to increase back high enough for a proper spark, or some other heat and resistance relation in the sparks or coils. The coils I had replaced it with were Autozone Duralasts, so nothing fancy, but I can't imagine I would have gotten a bad part and it would have faulted this long after installation.
I will be grabbing the coils out of my '02 B6 A4 parts car and dropping them in this weekend. Also, I am planning on grabbing the valve cover gasket out of the '02 as well, and dropping it in my '03. Obviously it would be better to put in a brand new gasket, but are there any very strong compelling reasons to not reuse/swap that gasket? Any gotchas I gotta watch for when digging into this or special tools needed besides possibly the standard Audi gimmies (triple square, hex, crimp hose clamps).

[Dr.B6Banter]

So earlier today I got a chance to rerun the test of swapping sparks, coils, and injectors and lone behold my code reader did send me on a wild goose chase. Today was also the first day it has been run in temps above freezing in probably a month, and the misfire went away after coming up to temp at idle, but would occur while driving under load. The first test I did was swapping coils and I got the misfire to move. What a relief!

I'm thinking that since the oil was pretty filthy as it had been hanging around for a hot minute or so, it got enough conductive grit to knock down the angry pixies in the spark. Since I observed the issue to be heat related since it reduced in frequency after the engine was up to temp, I am assuming that the either the oil heating up caused its resistance to increase back high enough for a proper spark, or some other heat and resistance relation in the sparks or coils. The coils I had replaced it with were Autozone Duralasts, so nothing fancy, but I can't imagine I would have gotten a bad part and it would have faulted this long after installation.
I will be grabbing the coils out of my '02 B6 A4 parts car and dropping them in this weekend. Also, I am planning on grabbing the valve cover gasket out of the '02 as well, and dropping it in my '03. Obviously it would be better to put in a brand new gasket, but are there any very strong compelling reasons to not reuse/swap that gasket? Any gotchas I gotta watch for when digging into this or special tools needed besides possibly the standard Audi gimmies (triple square, hex, crimp hose clamps).

The valve cover gasket has to contend with quite a lot of heat being on an aluminum head so it often gets brittle with age and ends up cracking when you try removing it. I have gotten away with taking the valve cover to inspect something and putting it back on without replacing the gasket but I would not suggest transferring a used gasket when they only cost a few dollars. No point replacing a worn and leaky gasket with another worn and soon to be leaky one.

In terms of installation, there isn't anything special I can remember, just a couple of 10mm (I think) nuts to remove and undoing anything that directly attaches to the valve cover like the breather hoses. Those hoses may or may not use one time clamps, so if they do get yourself some hose clamps to replace them when reinstalling everything. Just make sure both mating surfaces (head and VC) are clean before putting the gasket. I vaguely remember putting some sealant on the corners of the gaskets where it goes over the cam chain tensioner/ front of the head.

214373214374

[SchmidtA4]

Saw that the 90 hose, the top one in the image, was also cracked open, found the picture in another thread. Link here for reference:https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee273/noti88/VCG%20and%20CTG%20Install%20Stud%20Snap/34897f8b.jpg

Planning on pulling this from the parts car too, if it is intact yet. Just wanted to drop this thread reference in here, as I'm sure I'm not the only one that didn't see that great thread by a4darkness at first and came here searching for needles in the haystack.

[SchmidtA4]

The valve cover gasket has to contend with quite a lot of heat being on an aluminum head so it often gets brittle with age and ends up cracking when you try removing it. I have gotten away with taking the valve cover to inspect something and putting it back on without replacing the gasket but I would not suggest transferring a used gasket when they only cost a few dollars. No point replacing a worn and leaky gasket with another worn and soon to be leaky one.

In terms of installation, there isn't anything special I can remember, just a couple of 10mm (I think) nuts to remove and undoing anything that directly attaches to the valve cover like the breather hoses. Those hoses may or may not use one time clamps, so if they do get yourself some hose clamps to replace them when reinstalling everything. Just make sure both mating surfaces (head and VC) are clean before putting the gasket. I vaguely remember putting some sealant on the corners of the gaskets where it goes over the cam chain tensioner/ front of the head.

214373214374


Thanks! I'll try finding one online and doing it the right way. You make a good point, and given my luck in general and particularly with my B6, I'll probably completely obliterate it trying to remove it. Did you just use standard RTV? I'm already getting into those pesky pex clamps with the lines around the front passenger side of the valve cover, shown in my post above. Going to use this thread as a reference for the lines and valve cover gasket, just so its here for the next shmuck in my situation: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness

[Natejo91]

Pretty sure I already know the answer to this but I'll go ahead and ask anyway...is the rear bumper compatible between the B6 cabriolet and B6 sedan?

[Dr.B6Banter]

Would a spongy brake pedal with little resistance and bite on the first pump which firms up and bites with much less travel on the 2nd pump be a failing MC or just a big air bubble?

With the engine off I can push about halfway on the pedal throw before it becomes too hard to push and it does not gradually continue sinking. With the engine on it goes further but seems to hold which makes me think it's just an air bubble.

Just trying to get the brake system feeling normal after doing the B7 front brake upgrade. I did the single person brake bleed method where I crack the bleeder open a little and have a hose going into a bottle and just keep pumping in the cabin to flush the fluid. After doing so I read that pumping the brake pedal all the way to the floor is bad for the MC?

[BerlinerB6]

Would a spongy brake pedal with little resistance and bite on the first pump which firms up and bites with much less travel on the 2nd pump be a failing MC or just a big air bubble?

With the engine off I can push about halfway on the pedal throw before it becomes too hard to push and it does not gradually continue sinking. With the engine on it goes further but seems to hold which makes me think it's just an air bubble.

Just trying to get the brake system feeling normal after doing the B7 front brake upgrade. I did the single person brake bleed method where I crack the bleeder open a little and have a hose going into a bottle and just keep pumping in the cabin to flush the fluid. After doing so I read that pumping the brake pedal all the way to the floor is bad for the MC?

Did the reservoir empty when you did the caliper swap? If so, might have an air bubble in the ABS module. I had to change my whole module out and had a very spongy pedal even after pressure bleeding the lines multiple times.
There's a way to activate the ABS in VCDS to purge it. I think you're supposed to have both front bleeders cracked at the same time. I have yet to have any luck getting that to work. Other option is to do a few emergency stops on a loose surface. That's what ended up working for me.

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[Dr.B6Banter]

Did the reservoir empty when you did the caliper swap? If so, might have an air bubble in the ABS module. I had to change my whole module out and had a very spongy pedal even after pressure bleeding the lines multiple times.
There's a way to activate the ABS in VCDS to purge it. I think you're supposed to have both front bleeders cracked at the same time. I have yet to have any luck getting that to work. Other option is to do a few emergency stops on a loose surface. That's what ended up working for me.

Sent from my IN2015 using Tapatalk

I had the rubber lines pinched when disconnecting the old calipers and installing the new ones so I didn't lose more than a few drops of brake fluid. There's a small chance I may have run the res dry while bleeding since the single person method pumps quite a lot of fluid through the system. There haven't been any particularly snowy days since the swap so I have not gotten any good ABS stops in yet so I may give that a shot.

[Dr.B6Banter]

I'm pretty sure I know the answer but how interchangeable would an air setup on a B5 (97') FWD Passat be with my Quattro B6?

I know the fronts are similar but the strut to control arm bolting point on the B5 is a little wider than on the B6. The rear on the fwd Passat would be a beam suspension but would the airbag be similar enough in dimensions to fit up in the multilink rear on a B6?

215272

[Natejo91]

Driving around I've noticed that at WOT in 3rd gear, my clutch has started to slip. I know it's been discussed a million times but any recommendations on a clutch kit good for 300 ft-lbs? I'm tempted on the sale that ECS has right now on the RA4 240mm Clutch Conversion Kits but the info I read on the forums mentions significant flywheel chatter on the 5 speed. I also don't understand the alignment tool that comes in their kit...there are no splines on it.
For reference: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/ra4-240mm-clutch-conversion-kit-stage-1/ecsb6a4ra4s1ktst/

[Dr.B6Banter]

I also don't understand the alignment tool that comes in their kit...there are no splines on it.
For reference: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/ra4-240mm-clutch-conversion-kit-stage-1/ecsb6a4ra4s1ktst/

I've only ever used plastic alignment tools that have splines on them, but I can't think of a reason why the splines are needed. The only purpose of the tool is to make sure the clutch friction disk is centered with the crank/pilot bearing, for which the splines are not needed. The fact that the ECS alignment tool seems to be made out of metal should mean it will have better tolerances than the plastic ones I've used where you have to snug up the PP bolts slowly while making sure the alignment tool slides freely due to the loose tolerance.

[Natejo91]

The fact that the ECS alignment tool seems to be made out of metal should mean it will have better tolerances than the plastic ones I've used where you have to snug up the PP bolts slowly while making sure the alignment tool slides freely due to the loose tolerance.

That's a good point. Assuming that the metal alignment tool is built such that the teeth on the splines on the clutch disk are holding it in snug then it probably serves its purpose just fine. The splines on the plastic alignment tools are probably just there to make up for the looser tolerance that they would have.

What clutch are you running?

[Dr.B6Banter]

That's a good point. Assuming that the metal alignment tool is built such that the teeth on the splines on the clutch disk are holding it in snug then it probably serves its purpose just fine. The splines on the plastic alignment tools are probably just there to make up for the looser tolerance that they would have.

What clutch are you running?

Yeah, I'm sure that alignment tool will be fine.

I'm running the Valeo SMFW conversion kit which from what I can tell is good up to the same torque limit of the stock rods of around 300 ft-lb. It's an OEM style replacement so the flywheel is the same weight as stock of around 24lb and there isn't any chatter however I do notice a good amount of vibrations when you lug the engine between 1k-2k.

For more torque capacity and not much more money if you're in the US the RA4 240mm clutch with a b5 s4 2.7t clutch friction disk and PP is a good choice. The RA4 flywheel is much lighter than stock however so chatter is inevitable. A fluid damper on the front of the crank may help but I can't confirm personally.

[Deerhurst]

Driving around I've noticed that at WOT in 3rd gear, my clutch has started to slip. I know it's been discussed a million times but any recommendations on a clutch kit good for 300 ft-lbs? I'm tempted on the sale that ECS has right now on the RA4 240mm Clutch Conversion Kits but the info I read on the forums mentions significant flywheel chatter on the 5 speed. I also don't understand the alignment tool that comes in their kit...there are no splines on it.
For reference: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/ra4-240mm-clutch-conversion-kit-stage-1/ecsb6a4ra4s1ktst/A stock B7 RS4 clutch would probably do the trick. Cheap, OE feel.

Look at the TTV flywheel if you want to go SMF. If you go too light it'll be crappy to drive and likely tons of chatter.

I have the 16lb TTV on my 3.0. Butter smooth. No chatter if I am above about 1200-1500RPM under load. Otherwise nothing. I also have the B7 RS4 clutch. I like it!

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[Natejo91]

For more torque capacity and not much more money if you're in the US the RA4 240mm clutch with a b5 s4 2.7t clutch friction disk and PP is a good choice. The RA4 flywheel is much lighter than stock however so chatter is inevitable. A fluid damper on the front of the crank may help but I can't confirm personally.

I think that is the same kit I linked to right? That's what I'm tempted to pull the trigger on now but I wish I had a way to see what the chatter was like before diving in. I like the idea of a lighter flywheel to gain revs more quickly but I don't really feel like diving into the damper on the crank pully to address the chatter since I just did the timing belt like 2k miles ago. I wish there was an "in-between" option between the 12 lb. single mass flywheel in that kit and the 26 lb OEM or 26 lb single mass equivalent.

[my1stturbo]

What's the best way to determine the cause of a coolant leak if you don't have easy access to get under the car or a garage? Had a mechanic change the heater core, thermostat and j plug recently. Twice after I've gone out to the car after letting it sit for a week or so and coolant bottle has been practically empty. Looking just now I see a coolant puddle between the oil cooler and the dip stick funnel on the block.

[grayjay]

What's the best way to determine the cause of a coolant leak if you don't have easy access to get under the car or a garage? Had a mechanic change the heater core, thermostat and j plug recently. Twice after I've gone out to the car after letting it sit for a week or so and coolant bottle has been practically empty. Looking just now I see a coolant puddle between the oil cooler and the dip stick funnel on the block.

After I changed my thermostat, I had a leak from one of the hardline connections into the thermostat housing. As I remember, the connection used a single offset tab that bolted to the housing to hold an 0-ring connection in place for the seal. If the connections hardline is not carefully aligned so that it enters the housing strait and/or if the tab gets bent so that it is not pushing down evenly on the O-ring, it can push sideways a bit and cause a leak. With a small pocket mirror, you should be able to see the housing leak from above the engine. I just removed the connection, straightened it out, bent the offset tab to align better and that fixed the leak.

Other suspect source for a coolant leak is the crappy plastic coolant flange that is located on back of cylinder head if you didn't also replace it. You should be able to look down and see it leaking on top of transmission from above engine if the flange is leaky.

[my1stturbo]

After I changed my thermostat, I had a leak from one of the hardline connections into the thermostat housing. As I remember, the connection used a single offset tab that bolted to the housing to hold an 0-ring connection in place for the seal. If the connections hardline is not carefully aligned so that it enters the housing strait and/or if the tab gets bent so that it is not pushing down evenly on the O-ring, it can push sideways a bit and cause a leak. With a small pocket mirror, you should be able to see the housing leak from above the engine. I just removed the connection, straightened it out, bent the offset tab to align better and that fixed the leak.

Other suspect source for a coolant leak is the crappy plastic coolant flange that is located on back of cylinder head if you didn't also replace it. You should be able to look down and see it leaking on top of transmission from above engine if the flange is leaky.

Thanks for this. Will try to take a look later. I know for a fact there is coolant on the block between the dipstick and the oil cooler, was able to see that this morning when I was under the hood. Will check the flange as well though.

[Deerhurst]

I'm getting a bank 2 sensor 1 O2 fault. Which ones is bank 2? I know sensor 1 will be the pre-cat sensor.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[Jakal]

Quick question. For whatever reason I can’t find a solid instructional piece about taking the rear door off. (Plenty of videos on removing the door cards though.) I mainly just need to know the bit size/s.


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[fishstick41]

..

[frogspit]

Does anyone happen to know if the 034 and integrated engineering fuel rails are the same design?

[Blockis]

I'm getting a bank 2 sensor 1 O2 fault. Which ones is bank 2? I know sensor 1 will be the pre-cat sensor.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

Should be drivers-side pre-cat sensor.

[Blockis]

I know it was asked a few posts above, but I have a slow coolant leak, and trying to figure out where I should start looking. I've noticed a small puddle at the driver-side front part (approx. just behind radiator) of the car but haven't investigated too much as it's been so cold. Wondering if this sounds it could be lower radiator temp sensor o-ring (feels like right location/area), thermostat, j-plug, or something else?

[grayjay]

I know it was asked a few posts above, but I have a slow coolant leak, and trying to figure out where I should start looking. I've noticed a small puddle at the driver-side front part (approx. just behind radiator) of the car but haven't investigated too much as it's been so cold. Wondering if this sounds it could be lower radiator temp sensor o-ring (feels like right location/area), thermostat, j-plug, or something else?

At 182K mileage, your 1.8T is probably overdue to have all the problematic potentially leaky coolant connection points replaced. If you just replace the one leak that is currently symptomatic, you will likely continue to have ongoing leaks as the others start to leak in short order. Much easier, more reliable, and less costly in terms of coolant loss if you just address all the coolant leaks at once instead of one-by-one. In addition to those you have listed, the CTS housing on the rear of the head, the coolant pump, and any suspect rubber coolant hoses are good to all do at the same time. Makes sense to also combine with timing belt replacement if you are changing the coolant pump anyway.

[SJorge3442]

I'm getting a bank 2 sensor 1 O2 fault. Which ones is bank 2? I know sensor 1 will be the pre-cat sensor.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

just did this replacement on my 3.0. This is the easier side to get to. Not bad at all. I did mine in about 30min start to finish. Grab an offset o2 sensor wrench and stick it up there, then get your ratchet it on it and break it loose.

[Deerhurst]

just did this replacement on my 3.0. This is the easier side to get to. Not bad at all. I did mine in about 30min start to finish. Grab an offset o2 sensor wrench and stick it up there, then get your ratchet it on it and break it loose.The next question: should I do them in pairs?

I've never owned a vehicle with more than 1 O2 before.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[Blockis]

At 182K mileage, your 1.8T is probably overdue to have all the problematic potentially leaky coolant connection points replaced. If you just replace the one leak that is currently symptomatic, you will likely continue to have ongoing leaks as the others start to leak in short order. Much easier, more reliable, and less costly in terms of coolant loss if you just address all the coolant leaks at once instead of one-by-one. In addition to those you have listed, the CTS housing on the rear of the head, the coolant pump, and any suspect rubber coolant hoses are good to all do at the same time. Makes sense to also combine with timing belt replacement if you are changing the coolant pump anyway.

Yeah that's a good point on the coolant cost [>_<]

[Blockis]

The next question: should I do them in pairs?

I've never owned a vehicle with more than 1 O2 before.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

I would replace them both at the same time, you're already in there. Y'know?

[QuattroVAG]

I’d like to replace my manual shift knob/boot

Does anyone know if the knobs from other audis fit our cars?

There are a lot of options for new well priced knobs from the b8 and older a6’s and a3’s. Has anyone done something like this?


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[SJorge3442]

The next question: should I do them in pairs?

I've never owned a vehicle with more than 1 O2 before.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro


I would replace them both at the same time, you're already in there. Y'know?

I agree. Do both! The passenger side is a little harder, but not impossible. The system will run better with 2 fresh sensors. When I first had to change my front sensors, I did one, then like 4 months later the next one threw a CEL so I had to get back under and swap it. This time I only did one because it failed wayyyy to early (like, 10k miles). I did have some misfire issues during that period so I wouldn't be surprise if thats why it failed.

[Deerhurst]

I agree. Do both! The passenger side is a little harder, but not impossible. The system will run better with 2 fresh sensors. When I first had to change my front sensors, I did one, then like 4 months later the next one threw a CEL so I had to get back under and swap it. This time I only did one because it failed wayyyy to early (like, 10k miles). I did have some misfire issues during that period so I wouldn't be surprise if thats why it failed.Any particular brand recommendations?

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[SJorge3442]

Any particular brand recommendations?

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT QuattroI went Bosch. Standard brand on our cars. Rock auto has the front sensor for about $85 if I remember correctly.

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[Deerhurst]

I went Bosch. Standard brand on our cars. Rock auto has the front sensor for about $85 if I remember correctly.

Sent from my HD1905 using TapatalkI was thinking the bosch. They are ~90 bucks right now.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[hawk06glide]

Does the turbo set up in the 1.8T have a baffling system of sorts that quiets the turbo noise in the cabin? if so what are the steps to safely remove those components? I had a 08 cummins and they had a baffle in the air intake tube that removed all the turbo noise, this was promptly removed after I bought it. Thought maybe this turbo system was similar. Does anyone have an exploded parts view for the turbo system on the B6?

[Dr.B6Banter]

Does the turbo set up in the 1.8T have a baffling system of sorts that quiets the turbo noise in the cabin? if so what are the steps to safely remove those components? I had a 08 cummins and they had a baffle in the air intake tube that removed all the turbo noise, this was promptly removed after I bought it. Thought maybe this turbo system was similar. Does anyone have an exploded parts view for the turbo system on the B6?

The only thing I can think of is the insulation within the airbox. I've heard of people removing it for an OEM look with more turbo noise. The turbo itself does not have any sort of muffler or silencer on it unlike the newer turbos IIRC.

[hawk06glide]

Guess switching to a cone filter would be the nearest thing at that point. Thanks for the response!!

[Dr.B6Banter]

Guess switching to a cone filter would be the nearest thing at that point. Thanks for the response!!

Yeah, that would let you hear the turbo a noticeable amount more, but you need to be careful to build a heat shield for it to ensure it doesn't become a hot air filter. Especially with aggressive tunes that run a lot of timing, high intake temperatures kill power.

[Natejo91]

Does the turbo set up in the 1.8T have a baffling system of sorts that quiets the turbo noise in the cabin? if so what are the steps to safely remove those components? I had a 08 cummins and they had a baffle in the air intake tube that removed all the turbo noise, this was promptly removed after I bought it. Thought maybe this turbo system was similar. Does anyone have an exploded parts view for the turbo system on the B6?

There is “sort of” a baffle/silencer within the air intake plumbing. The helmholtz resonator is this little metal box that’s bolted to the passenger side of the engine block. The link that i posted in your K04 build thread to the DIY for adding the passenger side intercooler shows what it looks like/where it is. You don’t need the helmholtz resonator for your car to run normal, removing it might not increase your turbo noise but it will definitely increase induction noise. If you go to a front mount intercooler or go the dual side mount intercooler route, you’ll want to remove the helmholtz resonator to gain more space in the crammed engine bay. Plus it will simplify your plumbing. Additionally, if you upgrade your diverter valve you will get more noise from that as well.

Edit: because I’m feeling extra helpful today:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/484384-Losing-the-Helmholtz

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[codemode]

Sometimes when cold starting it, the RPMs climb very slowly and it sort of “coughs” and shudders around 800RPM then climbs to 1200 normally. What could it be? (1.8T)

[A4_newb2006]

Hello Everyone,
I was not sure where to post this, I am in a but of a predicament. Please bare with me, I am a total newbie when it comes to this forum and car repair. I only am capable of basic maintenance such as oil changes, spark plugs. I had an issue with my 2006 Audi leaving me stranded on the highway. It shut off while driving at 70mph. I used a scanner and found a variety of codes. I think think they are all related to the coil pack wiring harness. A common issue I found out of the insulation becoming brittle and wires touching and causing misfires. I purchased one from 034 Motor sport and seemed like an easy enough task. However, I messed up. I cut the cables going into each coil pack before properly labeling them. Also the insulation has gotten so hot that its faded the colors. The Red-green wire just looks brown now and now have 2 browns. Is there any way to way to figure out which wires go to each cylinder? I know that's very very broad question, but could anyone try to shed some light on this? Or should I just bite the bullet and take it somewhere?

[my1stturbo]

What's a good tool to pressurize the coolant system to try to track down a leak?

[fabric8]

From underneath the engine bay looking straight up, I see my steering rack is leaking/seeping/wet in this one spot. I've never seen a single drop of fluid on my garage floor so it might be a very slow leak, or only leaks when operating on the road.

Does this mean I need to replace my steering rack? Or just top off the fluid as needed?

My car is a 2002 1.8t 5speed quattro with 170k miles for reference.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210128/3056577a9d055086303bfadd490e3cc3.jpg

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[SJorge3442]

From underneath the engine bay looking straight up, I see my steering rack is leaking/seeping/wet in this one spot. I've never seen a single drop of fluid on my garage floor so it might be a very slow leak, or only leaks when operating on the road.

Does this mean I need to replace my steering rack? Or just top off the fluid as needed?

My car is a 2002 1.8t 5speed quattro with 170k miles for reference.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210128/3056577a9d055086303bfadd490e3cc3.jpg

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Looks like its blowing out of the boot or one of the hard lines ?The banjo bolts looks good and dry so its gotta be one of those two spots i think.

[fabric8]

Looks like its blowing out of the boot or one of the hard lines ?The banjo bolts looks good and dry so its gotta be one of those two spots i think.I think your right and its blowing out of the boot since it's all wet there. I dont know much about power steering racks. Does this leak mean I should replace the rack?

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[SJorge3442]

I think your right and its blowing out of the boot since it's all wet there. I dont know much about power steering racks. Does this leak mean I should replace the rack?

Sent from my SM-G950U using TapatalkYeah exactly. Most people here recommend RackDoctor for racks. I put a RD rack in my 3.0 in the fall and have had no complaints. The job of replacing it isnt too fun as it's such a tight place to be working, but it's not the end of the world.

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[fabric8]

Yeah exactly. Most people here recommend RackDoctor for racks. I put a RD rack in my 3.0 in the fall and have had no complaints. The job of replacing it isnt too fun as it's such a tight place to be working, but it's not the end of the world.

Sent from my HD1905 using TapatalkOk thanks for the recommendation. I'll check them out. I recently replaced the starter on my bro-in-laws B7 RS4. 6.5 hrs. That was the tightest starter to get to I've ever replaced. Hopefully this job wont be as bad as that was.

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[old guy]

Try some of this first. Clicky click (https://lucasoil.com/products/problem-solvers-utility/lucas-power-steering-stop-leak)® My rack was seeping 10 years and 100k+ miles ago. I changed the fluid and adding some Lucas and it has been dry ever since.

[fabric8]

Try some of this first. Clicky click (https://lucasoil.com/products/problem-solvers-utility/lucas-power-steering-stop-leak)[emoji2400] My rack was seeping 10 years and 100k+ miles ago. I changed the fluid and adding some Lucas and it has been dry ever since.Awesome! I'll give this a try this weekend. My fluid is pretty fresh. How much of the product did you use?

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[old guy]

Awesome! I'll give this a try this weekend. My fluid is pretty fresh. How much of the product did you use?



The first time I used the entire bottle. Then when I changed the fluid again in a few years I added 1/2 bottle as maintenance.

[my1stturbo]

On a non-Bose system do the rear door speaker wires go back to the rear of the head unit and then to the doors or directly from the amp in the rear of the car to the 2 doors? Figure the first way would be inefficient but not sure if they were in a common harness.

[grayjay]

On a non-Bose system do the rear door speaker wires go back to the rear of the head unit and then to the doors or directly from the amp in the rear of the car to the 2 doors? Figure the first way would be inefficient but not sure if they were in a common harness.

Pinout for the non-bose amp is at;
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/525336-Specs-for-non-bose-audio?p=8442244&viewfull=1#post8442244

I am not sure if the rear speakers that get amplified by this amp are in the rear doors or on the rear parcel shelf. Explanation, - bose systems (which I have) include 2 parcel shelf speakers, not sure if the non-bose setup used those?

If the non-bose amp is not amplifying the door speakers, then it does not look like the line level wiring for the door speakers passes through the amp, probably direct from the head unit to door speakers then.

[my1stturbo]

Thanks. I think the non-Bose amp powered the rear doors and the subwoofer in the rear deck. Was considering switching to a new HU and while the front speakers are no issue was trying to see how I'd tap into the rear speaker without having the signal go through the factory amplifier. The sub out I'd likely just take from the pre-out on the back of the new radio.

[Deerhurst]

The non bose powers the rear doors and sub wherever those speakers land. If you have speakers on the parcel shelf you will not have them in the door typically.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[my1stturbo]

Maybe I'm not stating it correctly. I have a 03 with non Bose. The front door speakers should be powered by the head unit. The rear door speakers are powered by the factory amp as far as I understand it. The factory subwoofer in the rear deck is powered by the factory amp as well. My question is do the outputs from the amplifier go from the trunk directly to the rear doors or do they go back to behind the radio and tie into the rear door wires? I would think probably from the amp direct to the doors to save wire but want to make sure.

[Deerhurst]

Maybe I'm not stating it correctly. I have a 03 with non Bose. The front door speakers should be powered by the head unit. The rear door speakers are powered by the factory amp as far as I understand it. The factory subwoofer in the rear deck is powered by the factory amp as well. My question is do the outputs from the amplifier go from the trunk directly to the rear doors or do they go back to behind the radio and tie into the rear door wires? I would think probably from the amp direct to the doors to save wire but want to make sure.The high level output from the amp goes directly to the speakers and does not go back to the head unit.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[my1stturbo]

The high level output from the amp goes directly to the speakers and does not go back to the head unit.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

Thanks. That's what I figured, was just hoping it wasn't the case. Considered putting small amp up front and tapping into the factory wiring to get signal into the doors rather than running new wire.

[Deerhurst]

Thanks. That's what I figured, was just hoping it wasn't the case. Considered putting small amp up front and tapping into the factory wiring to get signal into the doors rather than running new wire.I used a 5 channel and ran high level up to the oe wiring from the amp for the fronts.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[DvsChild1]

Anyone know if someone can clone a ecu in the Toronto area.
I have a used ecu I pulled out of a car with matching numbers to mine. But I know that the immobilizer won’t work if I swapped it. So I was wondering it it could be cloned to mine
2003 A4 b6 amb 1.8t
Thanks


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[Deerhurst]

What front end kits do you guys recommend? I'm thinking of swapping out my UCAs and LCAs to replace ball joints and bushings.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[Kevin C]

FCP, Lemforder is what I went with.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-control-arm-kit-lemforder-8e0407151mkt2

[grayjay]

Anyone know if someone can clone a ecu in the Toronto area.
I have a used ecu I pulled out of a car with matching numbers to mine. But I know that the immobilizer won’t work if I swapped it. So I was wondering it it could be cloned to mine
2003 A4 b6 amb 1.8t
Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

The bosch ECU model number for an 2003 should be 8E0909518AF. You should be fine to clone your original ECU to any other ECU with that same number or to either of the 1.8T 2004-2005 ECUs with model numbers 8E0909518AK or 8E0909518BC . The actual hardware is same for all three models, they just came with slightly different updated .bin file tuning programming that can be interchanged across any of the 2003-2005 ECU hardware if needed.
If you cannot find anyone local with know how to clone your ECU, doing it yourself with free open source software is not out of the question if you are willing to spend time setting up the needed software and have interest in learning how to use it. http://www.nefariousmotorsports.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page

Aside from a laptop and KKL cable you will probably need to build a bench flashing harness from a junkyard engine harness (or buy a premade bench harness from china)
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/445065-how-to-build-a-bench-flash-boot-mode-harness-for-your-me7-ecu?highlight=bench+harness

Using the bench harness, you can open the new ECU case and force it into boot mode in order to over-write a copy of your original ECUs EEPROM file (containing immobilizer SKC code, car model options soft coding and VIN which are stored on the EEPROM). Other option is to entirely disable the immobilizer on the EEPROM if you dont mind giving up that security feature. Once the replacement ECUs EEPROM data is updated, you should be able to run the replacement ECU in your car and thereafter you will be able to more easily make any further tuning changes to the ECUs main .bin tuning file via the cars OBDII port without again needing to enter boot mode.

[Tahoe3.0]

What are the differences between the 02x Gxx gearboxes? Can I plug and play a GYY box with my GJV driveline?

[Deerhurst]

So, I thought I needed wiper blades. When they said $97 for a pair I about pooped myself.

Looks like the problem is they don't quite touch in one spot. The one has a slight wow in it.

Anyone have any recommendations on how to get that wow out?

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

[a4audi4fun]

So, I thought I needed wiper blades. When they said $97 for a pair I about pooped myself.

Looks like the problem is they don't quite touch in one spot. The one has a slight wow in it.

Anyone have any recommendations on how to get that wow out?

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro

No idea how to get the bow out but these are much cheaper from eBay than $97

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/22-FOR-Audi-A4-A4-Quattro-2005-2008-Front-Windshield-Wiper-Blades/224059537079?fits=Model%3AA4%7CMake%3AAudi&hash=item342afd36b7:g:IOUAAOSw9she9v1V

[Deerhurst]

No idea how to get the bow out but these are much cheaper from eBay than $97

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/22-FOR-Audi-A4-A4-Quattro-2005-2008-Front-Windshield-Wiper-Blades/224059537079?fits=Model%3AA4%7CMake%3AAudi&hash=item342afd36b7:g:IOUAAOSw9she9v1V$11/pr but shipping will bite me!

I thought $97 was a little nutty.

2003 A4 Avant 3.0 6MT Quattro