questions you thought were too dumb to ask

[thomastollar]

^ interesting. My 034 mounts only came as an outer shell, which I understood to be normal. With this I figured the inner rubber bushing to be of less importance structurally, but if I had had new ones I would have installed them.

Also, not exactly sure what you mean by, "all the little pieces inside". Mine was a donut of rubber that the 034 mount fit around.

[fabric8]

Poke a hole in the boots on the rack and if any fluid come out then your rack is leaking.So if oil comes out that means the seals on the rack are leaking. Would that cause the symptom I'm experiencing wherein the car feels like it's wandering?

[customa4]

Does anyone know what size bolt to get for transmission mount? The one in the center of the mount.

[Chemmie]

So if oil comes out that means the seals on the rack are leaking. Would that cause the symptom I'm experiencing wherein the car feels like it's wandering?

I think you're being led astray here. A "worn" steering rack won't necessarily leak, and the converse also holds. A steering rack with half a million miles may be "worn". If the PS reservoir level isn't changing, the boots are not filled with oil.

I replaced all the control arms, tie rod ends and wheel bearings on the front end of my car recently. My car is currently sitting at 0.16° and 0.14° of toe-in on the DS and PS, respectively, which is within spec and very close to ideal (0.15° IIRC). Despite this, it will tram line on the highway when the road surface changes from smooth to milled asphalt or over longitudinal cracks. Tires are newer, all in good shape, pressure correct, recently balanced. The only thing I can suggest is to set the toe heavier. 0.20° on both sides may do the trick. Next time I get my car aligned (after rear suspension bushings) I plan on specifying this on the front toe.

An A4 is an economical 'luxury' car. Despite what some owners expect (admittedly, myself included) the ride and driving experience is far from perfect.

[DarkoNova]

^ interesting. My 034 mounts only came as an outer shell, which I understood to be normal. With this I figured the inner rubber bushing to be of less importance structurally, but if I had had new ones I would have installed them.

Also, not exactly sure what you mean by, "all the little pieces inside". Mine was a donut of rubber that the 034 mount fit around.

Here's some pics of most of the individual pieces:

http://imgur.com/GbVOEsB.jpg

http://imgur.com/PV38hev.jpg

The donut in the upper right actually consists of a big rubber bushing, two outer sleeves, and that white band to keep them together.

When I bought the 034 mounts months ago, all I got was the two big pieces at the bottom.

Then this is how I got mounts yesterday:

http://imgur.com/uonSEqp.jpg

http://imgur.com/BakKApF.jpg

So basically, I used the one 034 mount that I got a few months ago, which was just the outer portion, took apart the old stock one and basically used the inner parts with the new outer shell and clipped it together with the old clips.

Then I opened a new one and realized it should be a complete piece, so I just used the new piece on the other side.

Don't really want to take the driver's side apart but if I have to, I will...

[eljay]

I think you're being led astray here. A "worn" steering rack won't necessarily leak, and the converse also holds. A steering rack with half a million miles may be "worn". If the PS reservoir level isn't changing, the boots are not filled with oil.

I replaced all the control arms, tie rod ends and wheel bearings on the front end of my car recently. My car is currently sitting at 0.16° and 0.14° of toe-in on the DS and PS, respectively, which is within spec and very close to ideal (0.15° IIRC). Despite this, it will tram line on the highway when the road surface changes from smooth to milled asphalt or over longitudinal cracks. Tires are newer, all in good shape, pressure correct, recently balanced. The only thing I can suggest is to set the toe heavier. 0.20° on both sides may do the trick. Next time I get my car aligned (after rear suspension bushings) I plan on specifying this on the front toe.

An A4 is an economical 'luxury' car. Despite what some owners expect (admittedly, myself included) the ride and driving experience is far from perfect.
Good advice here.

I have similar symptoms, but I know I need an alignment. I've just been putting it off as I want to install the rear upper control arms first so I don't have to pay twice for an alignment.
Then I have crazy thoughts of also wanting to hold off on the control arms because what if I find a complete rear subframe I can rebuild and then swap in instead of my old one. But that will probably come later and I should be able to reuse my new control arms if I do make that happen.

[DarkoNova]

Well, there was a clunking noise whenever I went over bumps so I ended up taking the old concoction of 034 outers with stock inners off and put the new assembly on. Clunk is gone. Car drives amazing with 4 good shocks/struts.

But now my abs and traction control lights are on. Presumably due to the ride height sensors.

What do you guys do to fix that?

[customa4]

Well, there was a clunking noise whenever I went over bumps so I ended up taking the old concoction of 034 outers with stock inners off and put the new assembly on. Clunk is gone. Car drives amazing with 4 good shocks/struts.

But now my abs and traction control lights are on. Presumably due to the ride height sensors.

What do you guys do to fix that?

Should go away after you drive the car for a few miles. If not, pull the battery cable and then hold the brake pedal to discharge any leftover battery power. Let it sit disconnected for 5 minutes. Connect it and drive for a few miles to see if it goes away.

[Spike00513]

any thoughts?

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1e/2010_Porsche_911_GT3_RS_-_Flickr_-_The_Car_Spy_%2818%29.jpg
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/676712_x800.jpg

[joe biker]

High heel straps [emoji23]


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[Jakal]

I think I already know the answer to this one, but hopefully someone proves me wrong. I went to the junkyard and got a license plate light assembly off of a 04 and I didn't think the assembly would be different than my 03. The 04 had these 2 aluminum boxes (heat shields) that covered the 2 boxes on the back of the assembly which is plastic vs the 03's metal casing. I didn't bring them with me. Are these shields absolutely necessary? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170807/0e595ddeae27b514614a01af88d3dd03.jpg 03 on left with its 2 little aluminum brackets, 04 on right.

[Spike00513]

^I did not know this

but also
I heard that when people retrofit OEM LED's, that sometimes one of the LED's won't work, so it's holder needs the polarity reversed.

[MacFady]

Does anyone know what size bolt to get for transmission mount? The one in the center of the mount.

For your CVT or 5spd? Do you know the transmission code specifically? I see M10x35 used on a few of the different B6 drive train options.

[MetalMan]

Anyone know if an 8E0909518BC ECU can be flashed with a BIN from an 8E0909518AK ECU?
From what I've read 8E0909518BC doesn't work with ME7Logger or something like that... but maybe it would if flashed with 8E0909518AK? If it won't brick?

[my1stturbo]

Is there a way to test the health of a turbo or drivetrain? I know about boost leak tests and/or checking for shaft play, but I was told by someone they suspected the seals we're going based on the amount of oil that came out of intercooler. And as far as drivetrain, on ST coilovers for a few years now but sometimes feel like I'm dragging the back end of the car. I want to go from stage 1 to 1+ but want to make sure the turbo and drivetrain are up to it first.

[Ashtonts]

Hey guys, I am looking at buying a set of panda recaros off a junked car locally on the cheap. These seats are unfortunately in a car that was involved in a fire, however they are in surprisingly good condition. The whole front end including the battery and parts of the dash are destroyed, so the power seats can not be slid forward or back to remove. Now, the guy I'm buying them from says he attempted to manually power them but he thinks the motors are seized up. I'm taking that with a grain of salt as I am unsure If their attempt to power it was done correctly or not.

Is it possible to manually adjust the seat or something to just get them out of the car? I can either swap my seat motors over from my current set or buy used ones for cheap once I get them home. The issue is that they're unable to be removed since the rails cover the bolts unless you slide them forward or backward.

Any way to solve this? I really want these seats and this is the best price I'm ever going to see them at so I'm definitely hopeful in being able to figure something out.

[DarkoNova]

Should go away after you drive the car for a few miles. If not, pull the battery cable and then hold the brake pedal to discharge any leftover battery power. Let it sit disconnected for 5 minutes. Connect it and drive for a few miles to see if it goes away.

Thanks! I drove around to a few tire shops and it didn't go off. But I just drove to Firestone a little farther away and it went off.

I was afraid I was gonna have to make a custom link with heim joints or something lol.

[pablolizarraga]

any thoughts?

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1e/2010_Porsche_911_GT3_RS_-_Flickr_-_The_Car_Spy_%2818%29.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/3473aa316328ab3d02de57f91df87968.jpg


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[kabukie]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/3473aa316328ab3d02de57f91df87968.jpg


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I see them getting dirty afterwhile. I prefer the chrome pulls

[Spike00513]

Will this fit my B6?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07AZHkkLR0k

[nsprosty]

Will this fit my B6?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07AZHkkLR0k

My favorite part is that it knows when the top is down so it knows when to keep the fluid on the windshield and not in your car. WTF!!? Why not just keep it only on the windshield at all times??? This greatly refuses the cost of manufacture.


Sent from my Avant using telepathy.

[Spike00513]

My favorite part is that it knows when the top is down so it knows when to keep the fluid on the windshield and not in your car. WTF!!? Why not just keep it only on the windshield at all times??? This greatly refuses the cost of manufacture.

This might keep it from spraying nearby freshly-washed cars in traffic, which could prevent road rage

[t5campbell]

New to the forum, and if I need to post some where else let me know. I have an 2009 A4. I have replaced the motor and transmission mounts with aftermarket 034 mounts. The car still vibrates when I am idling at stop sign, but stops vibrating when I put it in neutral. What am I missing? Thanks,

[nsprosty]

New to the forum, and if I need to post some where else let me know. I have an 2009 A4. I have replaced the motor and transmission mounts with aftermarket 034 mounts. The car still vibrates when I am idling at stop sign, but stops vibrating when I put it in neutral. What am I missing? Thanks,

Try starting in the b8 section of the forums.


Sent from my Avant using telepathy.

[Jakal]

Are oem rotors painted on the vents and hub? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/front-brake-rotors-pair-288x25/8e0615301qkt3/

[5ktq]

I think they have geomet coating (kinda galvanized) on the hat and edge.

[Spike00513]

Are oem rotors painted on the vents and hub? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/front-brake-rotors-pair-288x25/8e0615301qkt3/

Looks like there is some spray there.


I think they have geomet coating (kinda galvanized) on the hat and edge.

zinc coating

I've seen some cases of people getting cheaper uncoated rotors and spraying it with something themselves.
But I bet by the time a rotor starts rusting and having flakes fall off, that the whole brake kit is probably worn out by then anyway, and in need of replacement.

Someone even used Wurth SBS II Brake Treatment spray to touch up the hub.
http://www.ferrarilife.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=159306&stc=1&d=1423587352

I wonder if it's worth having a can of this stuff around for other uses, like on the rotor itself, to fill in any possible cracks from over time.
Unless this old video is just a sales tactic?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSXwpuZKfhs

But you're sitting there breathing a cloud of paint, fumes, etc. -
it probably doesn't cost much more to just get something that already arrives coated if you want.
Have seen stuff like zinc spray at hardware stores, never tried it.

https://c1521972.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/img/news/20121227170834_large.jpg
http://impartsol.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/ZIMMERMANN-Z-COAT.jpg

[my_RS4]

Anyone use the China ESP switch vs OEM? Can source for $12 on eBay versus $25. If it works the same, why not? Thanks!


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[G.AUDI]

If the B7 climate control is retrofitted to a B6, did the issue with the rear defrost ever get resolved? . I been seeing mixed answers

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[itsmatt33]

any thoughts?

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1e/2010_Porsche_911_GT3_RS_-_Flickr_-_The_Car_Spy_%2818%29.jpg
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/676712_x800.jpg

i went the rs4 route instead

http://blog.ecstuning.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/unnamed-4.jpg

[MetalMan]

If the B7 climate control is retrofitted to a B6, did the issue with the rear defrost ever get resolved? . I been seeing mixed answers

In my case I didn't want to deal with that. So I just swapped the B7 faceplate to my B6's climate control unit. Plug & play that way.

[G.AUDI]

In my case I didn't want to deal with that. So I just swapped the B7 faceplate to my B6's climate control unit. Plug & play that way.I would do that but I want to add heated seats and the climate control I have now does not have any. [emoji20]

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[MetalMan]

I would do that but I want to add heated seats and the climate control I have now does not have any. [emoji20]

Maybe find a B6 unit with really beat up faceplate for cheap, and swap that with a nice B7 faceplate?
Mine doesn't have heated seats either [:p] But with nice SoCal weather I can't imagine wanting them haha.

[Spike00513]

Maybe find a B6 unit with really beat up faceplate for cheap, and swap that with a nice B7 faceplate?
Mine doesn't have heated seats either [:p] But with nice SoCal weather I can't imagine wanting them haha.

part 2: how to retrofit rear heated seats

and steering wheel
(I bet new Audis have it as an option, but IDK in what style)

[nsprosty]

part 2: how to retrofit rear heated seats

and steering wheel
(I bet new Audis have it as an option, but IDK in what style)

Ditto on the rear heated seats. Didn't some of the b6 s4 come with rear heated seats?


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[G.AUDI]

Maybe find a B6 unit with really beat up faceplate for cheap, and swap that with a nice B7 faceplate?
Mine doesn't have heated seats either [:p] But with nice SoCal weather I can't imagine wanting them haha.

That is true..... That will have to be my last resort if I can't get an answer for sure.... I'm with you on the SoCal weather but I have this option on the MK6 and it is a pretty awesome to have when it's cold out. It's a luxury that is definitely not needed but I can't go without once I've tried it... Lol

[G.AUDI]

Ditto on the rear heated seats. Didn't some of the b6 s4 come with rear heated seats?


Sent from my Avant using telepathy.

Some of the S4's had this option and you can retrofit it with the appropriate harness and controls under the rear ashtray.

Thinking out loud here , but if the B7 climate control is not compatible for the B6 , then I would have to source a B6 with the heated seats climate control and just swap out the face plates. Does that sound right?

[Razgriz227]

Some of the S4's had this option and you can retrofit it with the appropriate harness and controls under the rear ashtray.

Thinking out loud here , but if the B7 climate control is not compatible for the B6 , then I would have to source a B6 with the heated seats climate control and just swap out the face plates. Does that sound right?

B7 climate control is compatible with a B6, I have one installed now. Would need to do a little retrofit to have rear defroster but that's it.


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[G.AUDI]

B7 climate control is compatible with a B6, I have one installed now. Would need to do a little retrofit to have rear defroster but that's it.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Perfect! What is needed to fix the rear defroster? . I read something about a 12 v 30 A automotive relay... .

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[Razgriz227]

Perfect! What is needed to fix the rear defroster? . I read something about a 12 v 30 A automotive relay... .

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Yup just have to install the relay, I haven't gotten around to it cause I live in Az and don't need it but I will get it done at some point just for OCD purposes. There is a write up on here somewhere.


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[G.AUDI]

Yup just have to install the relay, I haven't gotten around to it cause I live in Az and don't need it but I will get it done at some point just for OCD purposes. There is a write up on here somewhere.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Yeah it would nice if I can find a link... My Google- fu is not as strong as others here but I did find this link. http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/b7-a-c-unit-in-b6-with-rear-demist-modification.88944/

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[my1stturbo]

Has anyone seen this video:

https://youtu.be/lu4oq6VST6k

And know if it applies to us? Seems like a much simpler way than pulling arms. I just want to adjust one of my arms since it seems something is stuck in the threads.

[Spike00513]

Why does my engine seem so bassy throughout the cabin accelerating from 1-3K RPM?

It's like a subwoofer is taped to it, but constantly on

It's just a stock 4-cylinder, so it's not a V8 grumble or anything...
Sounds more like some kind of resonance.
could the SMF Valeo clutch be causing a frequency, vs. DMF?


Ditto on the rear heated seats. Didn't some of the b6 s4 come with rear heated seats?

possibly '02 A4 as well, not sure if it required Cold Weather Package, which at least probably has front heated seats, snow mesh at the front of the intake snorkel, etc.
'02 window switches also have a different design logo on them

[Spike00513]

Does the B6 have this?


http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1061705&d=1405751430

two water pumps carefully regulate coolant flow- one mechanical pump responsible for coolant flow through the engine block, and one electric pump responsible for coolant flow through the turbochargers. The electric water pump can operate independently of the engine even when the car is not running, cooling the turbos once you've deactivated the car to prevent coking of engine oil inside the hot turbos- a major improvement in reliability over older turbo charged cars.

[fabric8]

Does the B6 have this?No. That's why it's important to use good quality oil and allow cool down before shutting the engine off if you've just run it hard.

[fabric8]

Why does my engine seem so bassy throughout the cabin accelerating from 1-3K RPM?

It's like a subwoofer is taped to it, but constantly on

It's just a stock 4-cylinder, so it's not a V8 grumble or anything...
Sounds more like some kind of resonance.
could the SMF Valeo clutch be causing a frequency, vs. DMF?



possibly '02 A4 as well, not sure if it required Cold Weather Package, which at least probably has front heated seats, snow mesh at the front of the intake snorkel, etc.
'02 window switches also have a different design logo on themOur 02 A4 1.8t has rear heated seats. It also has the autodimming mirror with compass. It seems like Audi included a bit more on the 1st year B6 A4's than the latter years. My dad's 03 1.8t has a standard rear view mirror and no rear heated seats.

[5ktq]

Does the B6 have this?

Nope. My 1988 Audi 5000 had one though. It leaked on more than one occasion.

'84 didn't, and didn't have a watercooled turbo, so it had two oil filters. one for engine, one for turbo return. in '86 they got the water cooled turbo.

[Spike00513]

a question I already know the answer to:
this would be difficult to retrofit to an avant hatch

2018 Porsche Panamera Sport Turismo spoiler

https://photos.stuttcars.info/upload/2017/03/01/panamera-st-12-copyright-porsche-downloaded-from-stuttcars.jpg
https://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/news/gallery/2018-porsche-panamera-sport-turismo-wagon-spotted-with-retractable-spoiler_2.jpg

[LebronFlames]

Can anyone tell me which part that is in the picture where u see coolant crust.

Photo was taken from right beside the down pipe. Hope that helps. Thanks everyone! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170831/8f26b75c376a0b51fce40e87a97169b0.jpg


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[Axis]

Our 02 A4 1.8t has rear heated seats. It also has the autodimming mirror with compass. It seems like Audi included a bit more on the 1st year B6 A4's than the latter years. My dad's 03 1.8t has a standard rear view mirror and no rear heated seats.

Depends on the option the PO chose at the dealer when ordering new. Nothing to do with MY.

[old guy]

Can anyone tell me which part that is in the picture where u see coolant crust.

Photo was taken from right beside the down pipe. Hope that helps. Thanks everyone!

That would be the connection of the heater core supply hose to the rear coolant flange.

[LebronFlames]

That would be the connection of the heater core supply hose to the rear coolant flange.

Thanks!! I had a feeling I was looking directly at the rear coolant flange. Watched a DIY video on YouTube to replace it and it looks like a pain in the ass! There's hardly any room to work with!!

Anyone experienced replacing this?? Anything I should be weary of? Lol


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[G.AUDI]

Thanks!! I had a feeling I was looking directly at the rear coolant flange. Watched a DIY video on YouTube to replace it and it looks like a pain in the ass! There's hardly any room to work with!!

Anyone experienced replacing this?? Anything I should be weary of? Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)It's a tight squeeze and hard to see and there will be lots of cursing and beer drinking but it's definitely doable.

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[fR3ZNO]

Channel your inner Ray Charles and do the coolant flange job by feel, not by sight.

[DarkoNova]

Is there a spot on the front of this thing where I can jack it up instead of doing one side at a time?

Just doesn't look like it whenever I look under the front. I'm scared I'm gonna bend the car in half if I try to use the core support...

Also, about how many quarts of oil do I need for a 6 speed Quattro for changing the tranny and rear diff fluid?

[Spike00513]

Channel your inner Ray Charles and do the coolant flange job by feel, not by sight.

Recently recieved a new plastic flange for now (with O-rings), and J-plug.
Appears the stock ones may be leaking. Just wanna replace it for now, before possibly upgrading to metal later.
Going to do it by feel then I guess. Unless I pull out a flashlight and mirror.

Wonder if anything else is needed for the job. Will look into it.
Heard somewhere it's a good idea to also replace heater hose elbow nearby while in the area, also coolant related.

[pablolizarraga]

Is there a spot on the front of this thing where I can jack it up instead of doing one side at a time?

Just doesn't look like it whenever I look under the front. I'm scared I'm gonna bend the car in half if I try to use the core support...

Also, about how many quarts of oil do I need for a 6 speed Quattro for changing the tranny and rear diff fluid?

Probably one of the most annoying task when working on this car! I used to jack it from the front of the car at the center of the subframe w/ a piece of wood between jack and subframe but subframe would flex a little before it finally would jack up. Always hated doing that because I'd hear some creaking and moaning.

Now I use that same piece of wood to roll one of my tires which gives me enough clearance for my jack to reach one of the subframe points. Still have to do one side at a time but I don't feel like I'm going to bust something.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170902/29ee6688f57c211fc992de8f5421127c.jpg

After I get the front up, the rear is a walk in the park by using rear differential as jack point.


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[Spike00513]

Mercedes has engine jack pads

http://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W203/BASIC-Jacking_Up_Your_Benz/images_small/pic02.jpg

E36 rocker tool from ECS

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/XUsWEvKEl6o/maxresdefault.jpg

[DarkoNova]

I always wondered what that hole on the side of E36 side skirts was for, lol.

Interesting.

But yeah, this is the first car I've had where I couldn't jack it up from the front. It kinda sucks, lol.

First world problems, heh.

[Spike00513]

Mercedes had them for emergency trunk jack too

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/cimg/www.mbworld.org/640x480_85/230/Side-of-car-65230.jpg

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/6JUvHsQ1PbM/maxresdefault.jpg

[DarkoNova]

Just to confirm, manual transmission cars share the fluid with the front/center diff, right?

The only fill and drain plugs I could find were on the transfer case. I ended up using just over 3 quarts for the tranny and somewhere between one to one and a half quarts for the rear diff.

I just want to be sure because I saw people mention drain plugs on the actual transmission but I couldn't find any. I figured it was a 5 speed vs 6 speed thing...

Oh yeah! I noticed my front driver's side axle has a ton boot and is flinging grease everywhere. Is there a recommended boot kit from any parts places?

[5ktq]

Yeah, front, center, and trans all share oil on manual trans. ~3L sounds about right, depends which gear you have

[nsprosty]

Here's an odd one. I bought my avant last week sight unseen and drove it 2000+ miles home from Maryland to Utah. Loved the trip even with all the shenanigans of a failed air compressor (Story thread coming soon). I did pull P0172 once I started getting into the higher elevations in Wyoming. Is it possible I just need to to a throttle body adjustment to correct this? It was a 2000 mile trip and I may have created a leak along the way but I don't have a gauge so I can't be sure. Anyway thanks for the input and here's a pic.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170912/06029cf31ed4e201b2b0773f31f9af6a.jpg

[treysgreen]

I got an APR ECU and injectors with my K04 upgrade. If I plug it up and its not immo defeated do I risk breaking anything or can I just plug the original back in and be ok? The original has a United Stage 1. It wont mess that up in any way will it?

[pablolizarraga]

Battery died and autozone confirmed their lifetime warranty alternator is bad.
Installed new battery. New alternator comes in Tuesday. Can I get by till Tuesday with driving car and charging battery overnight to hold a charge? Or will I end up killing another battery if I try this?


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[customa4]

If your alternator is dead, your battery won’t be able to keep the car running for long. Not exactly sure how long but when my alternator died, the battery was out of juice shortly after.

[5ktq]

With a full charge I wouldn't count on more than half an hour range, depends how many accessories you have running. Maybe less, do much electronics on these modern cars.

[Spike00513]

With a full charge I wouldn't count on more than half an hour range, depends how many accessories you have running. Maybe less, do much electronics on these modern cars.

yeah but how does a battery work...
I don't know.

Also, what about charging? Most people don't have chargers.
Maybe it's an option to come with new cars; a charger made by CTEK. I've seen a few on craigslist.

There is also the charger they can put your battery in, at Autozone for free.
You get a receipt, to return later. If they lose it, they give you a new one.

How do chargers work?
Exactly.
I don't know. Most people don't know.
Would love to know though. Maybe one day.

But yeah, I guess the alternator keeps the battery topped up while driving. It runs at higher voltage.

I saw someone retrofitted a B8 alternator into their B6.
I haven't figured out a way to copy this cheaply yet. Since I'm all about saving money.
Maybe if I find out there's a local B8 partout with low miles, to snag the alternator off it cheap...
Because we all know that such parts are way more expensive when new from Audi.


Battery died and autozone confirmed their lifetime warranty alternator is bad.

Huh. I wonder if quality is a concern. And what the difference is.
Because the factory one probably lasted a long time.

For me, once my belt came off. I got a new one.
Red battery warning light came on the cluster.
Still made it home. Put the battery to charge, but charger was broken.
Replaced the belt.

Might've warranty replaced the battery after that, I don't remember.
I think it kept working but not long after, gave out.

My question would be, with such hardships upon a battery, how much juice or life does it deplete from it.
Because in normal operation, this is not designed to happen. It's designed to just drive.
But in life, sometimes shit happens, and you find yourself moving the car under battery power alone.

Ever broke down in a busy area, but need to limp the car into a safe area? You can put it into 1st, then crank the battery. That takes juice from it.
Assuming you've defeated the safety start feature that is. I have. It's stock that way in Europe.

[DarkoNova]

Eh, if you have a charger you'll be fine. Way back in the day when I was a youngster with no car, I was driving my mom's car when the serpentine belt snapped. I was able to drive for a good 20 minutes on the freeway with no issues.

I turned off as many accessories as possible to keep electrical drain to a minimum and kept a close eye on the temp gauge.

But since you don't have to worry about the water pump not spinning, it should be less stressful for you, lol.

Besides, if you drain the battery pretty low, you should be fine with a slow trickle charger for a day or two.

[pablolizarraga]

Thanks for the tips. DarkoNova, that sounded like a stressful scenario.
I'm on the fence on whether or not to drive and charge because my drive can be 30-40 min. May just have to play it safe and borrow dads beater Oldsmobile Calais. Rides like a boat and vibrates like a massage chair. But it has ice cold A/C.



Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[treysgreen]

Well apparently my question is too dumb to even get an answer.

[customa4]

You’ll be fine trey.

[treysgreen]

You’ll be fine trey.

haha Thanks!

[Spike00513]

can you tow
or donate

a shell
the suspension and wheels are off...

[fR3ZNO]

I would call any local junkyards and see what they can do

[shurur9]

ok..so I took my bumper apart to paint and refurbish it.

NOW...It won't go on.
Me especially stupid today...
The car has been on the blocks for 9 months..new steering, ac, radiator, vac lines..tail seal..etc...and a number of things that have been bothering me for a while.
Car started yesterday..and ready for and alignment and AC charge!!! YEAHHH!!

I plugged and removed headlights washer lines altogether and am currently extending all electrical lines so i can just swing the bumper out of the way in the future.

Let's see whether the photobucket fix works.
First photo shows bumper, with bottom of bumper in the top part of the photo..

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t367/shurur/bumper3_zpscq2jflgx.jpg (http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/shurur/media/bumper3_zpscq2jflgx.jpg.html)
http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t367/shurur/bumper2_zpsll5h7ulu.jpg (http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/shurur/media/bumper2_zpsll5h7ulu.jpg.html)
http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t367/shurur/bumper1_zpsm0ohgskr.jpg (http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/shurur/media/bumper1_zpsm0ohgskr.jpg.html)

Q: Do I have the aluminum bumper part upside down?? OR
Is something wrong with my front extension orientation.!!

I also lost one of those aluminum bolt clips on the aluminum bumper..anothe thing to work on getting.

Thanks in advance.

[SendIt360]

I plugged and removed headlights washer lines altogether

How did this go? Simple job? My headlight washers are leaking and I don’t want to pay $500 for my shop to replace them. I want to retain the windshield washer system but could care less about the headlight washers.

[shurur9]

How did this go? Simple job? My headlight washers are leaking and I don’t want to pay $500 for my shop to replace them. I want to retain the windshield washer system but could care less about the headlight washers.

I just cut the hose off at the reservoir/pump and forced a 1/2" sharkbite plug in, then clamped it.
A 3/8" plug would work easier.

Even removed the entire hose assembly from the bumper just yesterday. Got sick of dealing with the damn thing.

[SendIt360]

I just cut the hose off at the reservoir/pump and forced a 1/2" sharkbite plug in, then clamped it.
A 3/8" plug would work easier.

Even removed the entire hose assembly from the bumper just yesterday. Got sick of dealing with the damn thing.

I’ll be doing this today, thanks for the info

[shurur9]

I’ll be doing this today, thanks for the info

There is also a fuse you can pull for that particular pump.
Use the fuse map on the inside dash cover on the DS to locate the fuse.

[eljay]

Does anyone have a good link/reference to edumacate myself on 2.0L stroker engines? I would like to find out more about what the options are etc. The millions of threads out there are people discussing their engine builds etc. and for a newb like me, it's confusing. I get that it's simply increasing the displacement, but some of my questions are whether there are incremental stages that are possible and their various benefits.
For example, do all conversions require a complete engine pull and rebuild? Or is it possible to just install a crankshaft from VW MK4 AEG 2.0L engine from the under the car and keeping everything else the same (stock rods and pistons)? I know it all depends on goals etc. That's where I get lost in people's threads.
Can 2.0L crankshaft be used as the only addition to a GTRS 1.8T setup to gain some bottom RPM range response and driveability?

Thanks!

[eljay]

No one is answering dumb questions?

Well, I'll add more.
If I am replacing struts, do I have to replace the bolts and nuts holding the upper control arms and bottom of the shock if they are only 12k old?

[old guy]

No one is answering dumb questions?

Well, I'll add more.
If I am replacing struts, do I have to replace the bolts and nuts holding the upper control arms and bottom of the shock if they are only 12k old?
I have had my front suspension apart numerous times. I did replace the hardware when I did a control arm refresh. But other than that I have reused the hardware numerous times and I haven't died yet.

[eljay]

I have had my front suspension apart numerous times. I did replace the hardware when I did a control arm refresh. But other than that I have reused the hardware numerous times and I haven't died yet.
I'll take not dying as a good outcome and endorsement. [:D] Thank you!

[fR3ZNO]

I'll take not dying as a good outcome and endorsement. [:D] Thank you!

If you're feeling paranoid about reusing some hardware, I typically use some blue loctite on bolts.

[fabric8]

No one is answering dumb questions?

Well, I'll add more.
If I am replacing struts, do I have to replace the bolts and nuts holding the upper control arms and bottom of the shock if they are only 12k old?They are not stretch bolts so, you can re-use them.

[2004a4b630QT]

No one is answering dumb questions?

Well, I'll add more.
If I am replacing struts, do I have to replace the bolts and nuts holding the upper control arms and bottom of the shock if they are only 12k old?

The biggest suspension hardware issue is the pinch bolt. Keep it new and slathered in anti-seize. I'm picking up some TNT to do mine soon (joking). 97K and it's never never been off. Between this and corroded wheel bearings, I think I'd rather do a 3.0 and 2.7T timing belt job back to back rather than deal with my suspension. [:(]

[eljay]

Haha. Thanks guys! The control arms and all hardware was replaced about 12k ago, so I hope all will be well with reusing it. I am just replacing front springs and I'll try the method with removing the control arms from the strut mount and leave the pinch bolts alone although the shop that did the control arms said that surprisingly the pinch bolts came out fine.

[blitz2190]

The biggest suspension hardware issue is the pinch bolt. Keep it new and slathered in anti-seize. I'm picking up some TNT to do mine soon (joking). 97K and it's never never been off. Between this and corroded wheel bearings, I think I'd rather do a 3.0 and 2.7T timing belt job back to back rather than deal with my suspension. [:(]

if you don't have one, an air hammer is amazing on the old rusty parts especially being in one of the worste areas for rust. I use it to vibrate the pinch bolt and even the rear caliper carrier bolt free.

[fR3ZNO]

if you don't have one, an air hammer is amazing on the old rusty parts especially being in one of the worste areas for rust. I use it to vibrate the pinch bolt and even the rear caliper carrier bolt free.

This.

I can't believe how long I went without having an air hammer after getting a compressor.

[Lauri0112]

Question about a front bumper without headlight washers, can you just cut a hole in the bumper and screw washers on the backside? Basicly, is the regular bumper " washer install ready" ?

Right now I have bumper with washers , but I need to remove my stock bumper for a while and use the cheapest replacment I can find. And that is a cracked, messed up bumper for 40 bucks. And no washers. But I dont want to drive around without windshield washer fluid for 2 or 3 months in the winter.

[fabric8]

Question about a front bumper without headlight washers, can you just cut a hole in the bumper and screw washers on the backside? Basicly, is the regular bumper " washer install ready" ?

Right now I have bumper with washers , but I need to remove my stock bumper for a while and use the cheapest replacment I can find. And that is a cracked, messed up bumper for 40 bucks. And no washers. But I dont want to drive around without windshield washer fluid for 2 or 3 months in the winter.I can't speak to whether a regular bumper is washer install ready. But if its not, you could just zip tie your headlights washers anywhere behind the bumper and unplug the electrical connector that goes to the headlight washer pump. That way, you can still use your winshield washers, just not the headlight washers.

If you remove the right headlight and look down toward the base of the washer tank, you'll see 2 black cylinders. Those are the washer pumps. The one on the right is for the headlight washers. The one on the left is for your windshield washers. IIRC.

[blitz2190]

You could just unplug the wire to the headlight pump on the washer fluid bottle and plug the line.

[eljay]

You could just unplug the wire to the headlight pump on the washer fluid bottle and plug the line.
^ do this!

[eljay]

Question about a front bumper without headlight washers, can you just cut a hole in the bumper and screw washers on the backside? Basicly, is the regular bumper " washer install ready" ?

Right now I have bumper with washers , but I need to remove my stock bumper for a while and use the cheapest replacment I can find. And that is a cracked, messed up bumper for 40 bucks. And no washers. But I dont want to drive around without windshield washer fluid for 2 or 3 months in the winter.
Here is some good info and pictures:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5898020

You can see the washer line from the reservoir. Just plug that line.

[Lauri0112]

Thanks for the good info. [:)]

[goa]

My k04-015x turbine will leak boost and overshoot. Do you know the cause?

[Gosser]

I am looking to retrieve a radio code from an UN-locked RNS-E. I know you cannot get it when its LOCKED, but what if the radio is not locked? Still a dealer only thing?

[Luxus Panzer]

I am looking to retrieve a radio code from an UN-locked RNS-E. I know you cannot get it when its LOCKED, but what if the radio is not locked? Still a dealer only thing?

shoot me a text with ser # of RNS and all other details you know about it.

I may have a way to get you what you need.

[Luxus Panzer]

Getting random ABS faults.

This will happen soon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7YRiVYrLjo


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4473/37441851270_968fb17711_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Z3BgVQ)2017-10-14_06-56-19 (https://flic.kr/p/Z3BgVQ) by Z R (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152191961@N02/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/37441842560_914eee46c8_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Z3BekE)2017-10-14_06-56-01 (https://flic.kr/p/Z3BekE) by Z R (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152191961@N02/), on Flickr

Am I going to have to drain the brake fluid if I am only replacing the above pictured side of the unit?

When I removed these at the wreckers, there was no fluid in them, however I think they drain all the fluids out before the cars hit the scrap yards.

[fR3ZNO]

That portion of the ABS module doesn't contain any fluid. No need to drain anything.

[Luxus Panzer]

That portion of the ABS module doesn't contain any fluid. No need to drain anything.

Noice ;)

Thanks.

[Axis]

I am looking to retrieve a radio code from an UN-locked RNS-E. I know you cannot get it when its LOCKED, but what if the radio is not locked? Still a dealer only thing?

If you cant get it through here its 7$ on Ebay and you usually get it within a business day. You'll need to provide the AUZ code. The AUZ code is linked to the motherboard* on an RNS-E so depending on the sw version it might show on the lock screen. If it doesnt, you will have to access the unit via vagcom to retreive it.

*Thats why it wont be on a sticker or engraved on the unit casing.

Here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-RADIO-CODE-ALL-MODELS-BEST-OFFER-/201855010470?hash=item2eff7f06a6:g:AXMAAMXQPatTHzB F&vxp=mtr)

[eljay]

I am looking to retrieve a radio code from an UN-locked RNS-E. I know you cannot get it when its LOCKED, but what if the radio is not locked? Still a dealer only thing?
Contact Audi of America and give them your VIN and the RNS-E number from the unit's sticker. I know that it may come back as your car not being equipped with RNS-E, but you never know, perhaps they don't check VIN reference.

[eljay]

I am refreshing my front suspension and assembling my strut/spring (Koni FSD/Eibach Pro-Kit) to prepare for a quick swap. But it seems I am missing some washers and looking for a proper location for them. My question is similar to this thread (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/413479-Need-a-quick-overview-of-front-strut-mount-re-assembly-(pics-inside)), but that person only has one washer and looking at the Audi diagram, it seems that I should have two washers. In this diagram (https://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/products/Washer/5632258/4D0412369A.html), #8 part number is 4D0412369A (it also shows up under WHT001484), but there is also washer #11, which is not listed in ETKA. It looks to be the exact same washer as #8.
https://i.imgur.com/Z3DYDtk.jpg

Do I need both washers and install them on each side of the bump stop cup that is integral to the strut mount bracket?
So, my assembly would be like this from top to bottom:
- Locking nut (can I re-use the nylon lock nuts that came with the shocks, or replace them with the OEM shoulder locking nuts?)
- strut mount
- washer
- strut mount bracket
- washer?
- shock shaft

[5ktq]

Sometimes ETKA uses the same drawing for multiple things, often if the part isn't shown with a number it's because it isnt used on that particular variant.

I don't remember #11 being a thing when I did my front suspension. (this is probably same drawing as B5, etc, one of which uses a lift spacer i guess).

[eljay]

Sometimes ETKA uses the same drawing for multiple things, often if the part isn't shown with a number it's because it isnt used on that particular variant.

I don't remember #11 being a thing when I did my front suspension. (this is probably same drawing as B5, etc, one of which uses a lift spacer i guess).
Thanks. Now, that I took a second look at my struts, it makes sense that there's only one. The washer can actually pass through the opening in the strut mount bracket, which means the one picture sa #8 in the drawing ends up sitting on top of the shock shaft (like #11), so it must be the same and the only one there.

[fR3ZNO]

So here's a dumb question... where do the wires for the auto dim mirror connector get routed in this DIY (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/623857-DIY-Auto-Dimming-Side-view-mirrors)?

The connector circled in red:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3703/10336485336_c1bcf0fa6e_h.jpg

Since my car only has heated mirrors, the connector for auto dimming isn't there, but I don't see anything about them in the DIY.

[eljay]

So here's a dumb question... where do the wires for the auto dim mirror connector get routed in this DIY (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/623857-DIY-Auto-Dimming-Side-view-mirrors)?

The connector circled in red:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3703/10336485336_c1bcf0fa6e_h.jpg

Since my car only has heated mirrors, the connector for auto dimming isn't there, but I don't see anything about them in the DIY.
The DIY assumes you are swapping full mirror assemblies. If you are only swapping the mirror glass as in your picture, you would need to route two wires from that connector through the mirror anchor point where the other wires for power/heat drop into the door and connect them to the end of the mirror harness connector behind the door panel. Then you can continue with the DIY.

[fR3ZNO]

The DIY assumes you are swapping full mirror assemblies. If you are only swapping the mirror glass as in your picture, you would need to route two wires from that connector through the mirror anchor point where the other wires for power/heat drop into the door and connect them to the end of the mirror harness connector behind the door panel. Then you can continue with the DIY.

Ahhh, okay. That makes sense. I figured I was missing something. Thanks!

[Gosser]

shoot me a text with ser # of RNS and all other details you know about it.

I may have a way to get you what you need.

Yea, i'll text you when I am back in town.

[Gosser]

If you cant get it through here its 7$ on Ebay and you usually get it within a business day. You'll need to provide the AUZ code. The AUZ code is linked to the motherboard* on an RNS-E so depending on the sw version it might show on the lock screen. If it doesnt, you will have to access the unit via vagcom to retreive it.

*Thats why it wont be on a sticker or engraved on the unit casing.

Here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-RADIO-CODE-ALL-MODELS-BEST-OFFER-/201855010470?hash=item2eff7f06a6:g:AXMAAMXQPatTHzB F&vxp=mtr)

Thanks for the link, I didnt think a service like this existed. I tried calling, AoC(is that a thing) and they referred me to the dealer. Which I dont have the patience to deal with for something so trivial. I really have no idea why a code even still exists, do head units that are specific to a model still get jacked?

[customa4]

When I called AoA I gave them the number printed on the RNS-E and the VIN number of my car(which was not originally equipped with RNS-E). I believe it took a day for them to call back with the code. It was hassle-free as far as I remember but it has been a couple years. Might be worth a shot calling AoA instead.

[Axis]

^^ they wont for a Canadian vin, if he has a US vin they will. If not they will tell him to call AOC and AOC will tell him to go to the dealer.

Dealer will charge half an hour or 75$ cad.

[AL.]

Ok guys here comes a dumb question. Are the parking lights on when you turn your low beams on?

I was replacing one of my headlight bulps last weekend and noticed that the parking lights are on when my low beams are on. I could’ve sworn they didn’t use to, it was just low beams and nothing else. But now I’m doubting myself, maybe they’ve always been on and I’ve never noticed it until looking at my car with one headlight bulp out, which leaves just the parking light on that side.

[fabric8]

Ok guys here comes a dumb question. Are the parking lights on when you turn your low beams on?

I was replacing one of my headlight bulps last weekend and noticed that the parking lights are on when my low beams are on. I could’ve sworn they didn’t use to, it was just low beams and nothing else. But now I’m doubting myself, maybe they’ve always been on and I’ve never noticed it until looking at my car with one headlight bulp out, which leaves just the parking light on that side.Yup. Park lights come on with headlights.

[Arctic_Audi]

Winter is here, and this is my first winter with my Audi. Always nervous entering -40 with a 'new-to-me' used car. I'm not certain if the transmission oil (6spd) is synthetic. The engine bogs quite a bit when I let the clutch out after starting (-5c). Is there any chance the last guy used mineral 75W-90, or would I see other indications of this? It shifts smooth, besides a slight bump going into 2nd.

Also, I usually swap my power steering fluid with ATF in my past vehicles. (2004 Duramax, 85 Supra, 96 Civic, etc.) and my 07 Tacoma/'14 4Runner have ATF from the factory. Has anyone ran ATF in a B6 Audi? I assume it would be fine.
The Supra was a must, or I would blow every line in the system below -30. Ask me how i know.

[fR3ZNO]

Winter is here, and this is my first winter with my Audi. Always nervous entering -40 with a 'new-to-me' used car. I'm not certain if the transmission oil (6spd) is synthetic. The engine bogs quite a bit when I let the clutch out after starting (-5c). Is there any chance the last guy used mineral 75W-90, or would I see other indications of this? It shifts smooth, besides a slight bump going into 2nd.

Also, I usually swap my power steering fluid with ATF in my past vehicles. (2004 Duramax, 85 Supra, 96 Civic, etc.) and my 07 Tacoma/'14 4Runner have ATF from the factory. Has anyone ran ATF in a B6 Audi? I assume it would be fine.
The Supra was a must, or I would blow every line in the system below -30. Ask me how i know.

The trans takes a GL4 75W90 synthetic. Rear diff takes GL5 75W90.

Don't use ATF, I would stick with the mineral oil spec'd by the OE (Pentosin CH11S or equivalent). Gives better flow in lower temperatures than ATF.

[Spike00513]

Winter is here, and this is my first winter with my Audi. Always nervous entering -40 with a 'new-to-me' used car. I'm not certain if the transmission oil (6spd) is synthetic. The engine bogs quite a bit when I let the clutch out after starting (-5c). Is there any chance the last guy used mineral 75W-90, or would I see other indications of this? It shifts smooth, besides a slight bump going into 2nd.

Also, I usually swap my power steering fluid with ATF in my past vehicles. (2004 Duramax, 85 Supra, 96 Civic, etc.) and my 07 Tacoma/'14 4Runner have ATF from the factory. Has anyone ran ATF in a B6 Audi? I assume it would be fine.
The Supra was a must, or I would blow every line in the system below -30. Ask me how i know.

There are multiple different gear oils that claim to be usable and compatible with the types of B6.
However, supposedly Motul Gear 300 does not have the best cold-shift properties, and I wonder if Fuchs Titan Sintofluid SAE 75w80 might have better cold-shift properties.
Please take my argument with a grain of salt, because these are merely questions.

For steering fluid, I heard CHF202 has less cavitation, but IDK if it requires a whole fluid switch, or if it's mixable. Some people I guess clean their reservoir filter mesh, but if you order a whole new one if yours breaks, they come with a grey cap. I notice this. Grey and says the Audi PN for CHF202, as if to imply a switch after a certain year. I just don't know if it's retroactive in general, or for cars produced after the switch model year.

I wonder if it's worth retrofitting various kinds of heaters to your car.
1. because you're in Canada
2. because it's winter

supposedly these things were option for Canada and Euro market cars.
versus other parts of the world that have milder winters.

Also, I don't know what the best warm-up driving style procedure is, if it's best to idle and how long, or to drive slow and gentle under load, for a certain distance.
I got in the wrong lane, and maybe it would be best for me to stay there, wait for the green light, take the detour, then find my way back. Rather than floor it to the right to try and escape back into where I was supposed to go, with fast oncoming traffic from behind, for example.

I heard some old cars in Russia even had a lever for you to operate, to close up the air passage inlet, to the front radiator, to help keep heat inside the engine bay. I don't know if it helps warm up faster.

this article claims to highlight the difference between visible aesthetic grill design, vs. actual used air inlet section.

https://jalopnik.com/cars-without-fake-grilles-1818518076

[AL.]

Yup. Park lights come on with headlights.


Damn, not sure sure how I went years thinking they're not on when using low beams, lol. Anyway, thanks for confirming this. First I was going crazy trying to figure out why my parking lights turn on and then I'm starting to think "wait a minute, were they always on?". Glad we have a thread for dumb questions like this.

[nsprosty]

I'm sure this one has been asked before but can I use b7 rs4 sedan door cards in a b6 avant? I know that avant and sedan are interchangeable but not sure on b6 to b7.


Sent from my Avant using telepathy.

[fR3ZNO]

I have a set of mirror assemblies from an S4 and was wondering how you can tell if they have electric folding? Looked at pics on ECS for electric folding and non electric folding and didn't see anything obvious.

[eljay]

I have a set of mirror assemblies from an S4 and was wondering how you can tell if they have electric folding? Looked at pics on ECS for electric folding and non electric folding and didn't see anything obvious.
If they are from S4, they are power folding as all S4s were equipped with that feature.

[fR3ZNO]

If they are from S4, they are power folding as all S4s were equipped with that feature.

Thanks [up]

[shurur9]

Winter is here, and this is my first winter with my Audi. Always nervous entering -40 with a 'new-to-me' used car. I'm not certain if the transmission oil (6spd) is synthetic. The engine bogs quite a bit when I let the clutch out after starting (-5c). Is there any chance the last guy used mineral 75W-90, or would I see other indications of this? It shifts smooth, besides a slight bump going into 2nd.

Also, I usually swap my power steering fluid with ATF in my past vehicles. (2004 Duramax, 85 Supra, 96 Civic, etc.) and my 07 Tacoma/'14 4Runner have ATF from the factory. Has anyone ran ATF in a B6 Audi? I assume it would be fine.
The Supra was a must, or I would blow every line in the system below -30. Ask me how i know.

I have used bars stop leak in the past with no problem.
I have switched to Amsoil power steering fluid (Amsoil ATF in a fancy bottle), works great.

I use Amsoil GL-4 for the 6MT. (GL-4!!)
Any GL-5 works for the rear diffy.

[Spike00513]

Was going to ask if B7 cabs use an LED brake light

http://imagesvc.timeincapp.com/v3/foundry/image/?q=70&w=1440&url=https%3A%2F%2Ftimedotcom.files.wordpress.com%2 F2017%2F10%2Froadside-hero.jpg%3Fquality%3D85

but never mind, looks like it's just structured differently. With a blocking rectangular shield, and a reflective bowl behind it, to make it appear a certain design.

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/attachments/20161106_161110-jpg.113915/
http://assets.suredone.com/2091/media-photos/8h0945095e-8h0945095e.jpeg

versus this B6 cab, which looks more similar to the B6 design we're all used to.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i7ukHHwFtqs/UR0mWuE_sEI/AAAAAAAAA6w/0iYisQFbdQo/s1542/DSC04629.JPG

[Razgriz227]

Doing a clutch job this weekend or next, time depending. Never replaced a clutch before so I was wondering if I actually needed to replace all the bolts and everything as well? If it's not necessary I won't worry about it. I live in Arizona so nothing is rusted. Any other tips of course would be appreciated. I'm doing it on a lift so shouldn't be too hard of a job.


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[Axis]

I have a set of mirror assemblies from an S4 and was wondering how you can tell if they have electric folding? Looked at pics on ECS for electric folding and non electric folding and didn't see anything obvious.

You were only asking for power folding but S4 mirrors are the fully loaded assemblies.

Heated
Power folding
Auto-dimming
Memory

[fR3ZNO]

You were only asking for power folding but S4 mirrors are the fully loaded assemblies.

Heated
Power folding
Auto-dimming
Memory

Gotcha. Apologies for asking the question in multiple places.

[DarkoNova]

So I have a torn inner CV boot on one of my front axles. I entered my Vin on Audi's site and it looks like I need part number 8E0-498-201-F, for a front inner boot, 3.0 Quattro manual.

Do I really need to pay $65 for a rubber boot and a couple clamps? Or would I be ok getting a cheaper non-OEM boot?

I have no problem spending $25 on all new hardware since they're single use bolts, but almost $70 for rubber just seems a little high...

If it makes a difference, then, I guess I'll just go OEM.

[Razgriz227]

Doing a clutch job this weekend or next, time depending. Never replaced a clutch before so I was wondering if I actually needed to replace all the bolts and everything as well? If it's not necessary I won't worry about it. I live in Arizona so nothing is rusted. Any other tips of course would be appreciated. I'm doing it on a lift so shouldn't be too hard of a job.


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Anyone?


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[blitz2190]

the only bolts you would need to replace are the flywheel to engine as they are tty, are you pulling just the transmission or whole engine and transmission out the front? Personally I pull the engine and trans out all at once, for me its faster and less aggravating when trying to align everything to put it back together. I can have the front of the car in about 45 minutes at normal pace. If you decide to do that I would replace the pcv (not the pancake valve but the one under the intake) and coolant flange now(5 minute job vs hours of swearing with it in the car).

[Razgriz227]

the only bolts you would need to replace are the flywheel to engine as they are tty, are you pulling just the transmission or whole engine and transmission out the front? Personally I pull the engine and trans out all at once, for me its faster and less aggravating when trying to align everything to put it back together. I can have the front of the car in about 45 minutes at normal pace. If you decide to do that I would replace the pcv (not the pancake valve but the one under the intake) and coolant flange now(5 minute job vs hours of swearing with it in the car).

Thanks on the answer about the bolts. I planned on just dropping the trans but you bring up a excellent point. If my buddy ends up helping I might just pull it all together since I don't have any service history before I picked up the B6.


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[QuattroVAG]

So I have a torn inner CV boot on one of my front axles. I entered my Vin on Audi's site and it looks like I need part number 8E0-498-201-F, for a front inner boot, 3.0 Quattro manual.

Do I really need to pay $65 for a rubber boot and a couple clamps? Or would I be ok getting a cheaper non-OEM boot?

I have no problem spending $25 on all new hardware since they're single use bolts, but almost $70 for rubber just seems a little high...

If it makes a difference, then, I guess I'll just go OEM.

You will be fine with non-oem boots as long as it fits tightly over the axle shaft. Sometimes aftermarket companies try to make a part that fits many cars and the result is the part doesn't fit as well as oem.


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[QuattroVAG]

Has anyone removed a radio switch from their symphony II ?

My scan button is badly scratched so I bought one from eBay. The seller says the old one can be pried out without disassembly of the radio. Is that true?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171024/267ab0c99390b85a21c6116ab5faab16.jpg


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[DarkoNova]

You will be fine with non-oem boots as long as it fits tightly over the axle shaft. Sometimes aftermarket companies try to make a part that fits many cars and the result is the part doesn't fit as well as oem.


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Thanks!

[Kieron]

What is the bung for on those cheap eBay cold air intakes? This: https://www.ebay.com/itm/270845917045
I'm putting bits together for my mechanic to help me with a custom build. I have the turbo, dp, mani, s4 maf, and rods, so am picking at the ancillaries now. Does it need some sort of sensor on the air intake or will a big pipe n filter into the maf be ok? I am genuinely tech dumb but learning through this site.


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[DarkoNova]

So I got the inner boot off of my front driver's side axle but the CV isn't like the one in the DIY. It's a bearing type and the axle is splined. I already took the circlip off the bottom of the axle. I'm assuming I can just use a punch and hammer to gradually pound the CV joint off the axle.

Just want to be sure before I end up wrecking the whole thing...

EDIT: Also, does anyone know if the 6 bolts that bolt the axle to the tranny are TTY? I can't find anything online that says they are or aren't, and I can't find part numbers for them. I ordered a kit from ECS that had the big bolt and 6 bolts for the axle, but the picture showed 6 really short bolts. My bolts are all like 2.5", maybe 3" long.

[fR3ZNO]

So I got the inner boot off of my front driver's side axle but the CV isn't like the one in the DIY. It's a bearing type and the axle is splined. I already took the circlip off the bottom of the axle. I'm assuming I can just use a punch and hammer to gradually pound the CV joint off the axle.

Just want to be sure before I end up wrecking the whole thing...

EDIT: Also, does anyone know if the 6 bolts that bolt the axle to the tranny are TTY? I can't find anything online that says they are or aren't, and I can't find part numbers for them. I ordered a kit from ECS that had the big bolt and 6 bolts for the axle, but the picture showed 6 really short bolts. My bolts are all like 2.5", maybe 3" long.

Those 6 bolts aren't TTY as far as I know. I do use some blue loctite on them.

[DarkoNova]

Thanks, that's good enough for me, lol.

Had to get a 3 jaw puller to pull the CV joint off the axle. Got the new boot on, now the fun part of trying to put the joint back on.

[caldy315]

Is there any curb weight differences between 04-05 and/or A USP and a basic sport model? Trying to understand why the tires have a load difference

[a4audi4fun]

Is there any curb weight differences between 04-05 and/or A USP and a basic sport model? Trying to understand why the tires have a load difference

3406 -> 3550 lb increase isn't that big a variation in the overall scheme of things. Suspect it's more driven by available tire spec options in moving from 16"->17"->18" rims. Sport versions typically have larger rims and smaller sidewalls so Audi is choosing higher load indices to compensate for sidewall loading. My 2008 Avant is spec'd at 3874 lbs with 18" rims - my tires are rated at 97 probably because of the extra vehicle weight plus the fact it could carry more cargo in the back.

This link is a good source for historical model year specs

https://www.audiworld.com/audiworld-model-guide/model-guide-audi-a4/

[caldy315]

3406 -> 3550 lb increase isn't that big a variation in the overall scheme of things. Suspect it's more driven by available tire spec options in moving from 16"->17"->18" rims. Sport versions typically have larger rims and smaller sidewalls so Audi is choosing higher load indices to compensate for sidewall loading. My 2008 Avant is spec'd at 3874 lbs with 18" rims - my tires are rated at 97 probably because of the extra vehicle weight plus the fact it could carry more cargo in the back.

This link is a good source for historical model year specs

https://www.audiworld.com/audiworld-model-guide/model-guide-audi-a4/

Thanks! I need to read more into load index. Local Discount Tire won’t install my winter tires because my USP came with 230/40-18 and my winter tires I’ve used and recently bought are 225/45-17. Saying it doesn’t meet the requirements

[caldy315]

3406 -> 3550 lb increase isn't that big a variation in the overall scheme of things. Suspect it's more driven by available tire spec options in moving from 16"->17"->18" rims. Sport versions typically have larger rims and smaller sidewalls so Audi is choosing higher load indices to compensate for sidewall loading. My 2008 Avant is spec'd at 3874 lbs with 18" rims - my tires are rated at 97 probably because of the extra vehicle weight plus the fact it could carry more cargo in the back.

This link is a good source for historical model year specs

https://www.audiworld.com/audiworld-model-guide/model-guide-audi-a4/

Also noticed that they show in that spec sheet optional 16" and 17" wheels but no mention of 18's for 04 or 05? Wonder where I can find that info.

[rocket1420]

So I got the inner boot off of my front driver's side axle but the CV isn't like the one in the DIY. It's a bearing type and the axle is splined. I already took the circlip off the bottom of the axle. I'm assuming I can just use a punch and hammer to gradually pound the CV joint off the axle.

Just want to be sure before I end up wrecking the whole thing...

EDIT: Also, does anyone know if the 6 bolts that bolt the axle to the tranny are TTY? I can't find anything online that says they are or aren't, and I can't find part numbers for them. I ordered a kit from ECS that had the big bolt and 6 bolts for the axle, but the picture showed 6 really short bolts. My bolts are all like 2.5", maybe 3" long.

They are not TTY. Look up the torque spec. If it doesn't say + some angle, they are NOT tty. Alldata sucks balls, but memory says they are 55 Nm.

[a4audi4fun]

Also noticed that they show in that spec sheet optional 16" and 17" wheels but no mention of 18's for 04 or 05? Wonder where I can find that info.

For North America, I don't think 18" rims were available as an Audi factory option. The B7 press release specifically mentions 18" rims as part of the S-Line Package which replaced the Ultra Sport package from the B6 (2002-2005) range.

[5ktq]

You will be fine with non-oem boots as long as it fits tightly over the axle shaft. Sometimes aftermarket companies try to make a part that fits many cars and the result is the part doesn't fit as well as oem.


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Try to get GKN boots. I think they are the OE supplier, first rate.

[Spike00513]

Try to get GKN boots. I think they are the OE supplier, first rate.

Interesting. I did not finish investigating this.
to determine what boots exist, who makes them, etc.
basically a comprehensive knowledge database, to choose the best one

because I heard some are plastic while others are rubber,
and I don't want to leave it to chance, and end up buying a low quality part.

I read somewhere that there is even a material called Hytrel made by big chemical company DuPont,
that is used for sand-rail / dune-buggy CV boots,

I don't know much about the subject.
Plane manufacturers for example, I hear claim a build date. That when an order for a plane is made (purchased), it can take them 3 years to complete.
I say this, because my thought is about people with more money.
Like Subaru, spending $1M+ on a rally car, to represent their brand, and win on a rally stage.

So for them, for example, I will assume they've put thought into every single component of the car, to make it durable.
including CV boots.
I hear cars can be made up of around 22,000 parts.

Audi for example, may have somewhat screwed us by cost-cutting, to save money, providing these cars with little to no interior sound-deadening, so that they're loud.
so IDK what CV boots they chose.
Must've been something good, if they lasted THIS long.
but now that I'm servicing them, it's no longer their choice, but mine. So hopefully whatever I get, ends up lasting the same. (10+ years)
because it's not a fun or easy part of the car to service.

terminology such as OE vs. OEM, I still don't know much about it, or how it works.
I am not only curious about how car companies build their cars,
but also how parts companies build parts to be installed on those cars, or to be sold to me (the consumer) to maintain my car, and whether or not it's the same part even.

I hear OE means Original Equipment and is what would've been installed at the factory
whereas OEM means the Original Equipment Manufacturer company, still making the part at their own factory, but may not be to the same high quality spec.

I am not asking other people do to the research for me. They probably won't. People are busy these days.
Maybe I will.
Just figured I'd elaborate a bit, on a subject that affects us all.

or what about silicone?
As you know, materials improve over time, and there are many choices.
same reason why people replaced their vacuum lines with a cool-looking red silicone, instead of cloth-braided rubber.

[caldy315]

For North America, I don't think 18" rims were available as an Audi factory option. The B7 press release specifically mentions 18" rims as part of the S-Line Package which replaced the Ultra Sport package from the B6 (2002-2005) range.

You mean they were just standard? USPs came with 18” standard, don’t think there was a factory option for any5hing else.


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[fR3ZNO]

Has anybody had their seats reupholstered? I have a set of Recaros that need it badly.

I'm afraid it will be cost prohibitive considering how labor intensive upholstery is...

[IndoReef]

Has anybody had their seats reupholstered? I have a set of Recaros that need it badly.

I'm afraid it will be cost prohibitive considering how labor intensive upholstery is...

lmao my driver side seat has the common tears on the "butox" section.
Some black gorilla tape and a little heat and i have stopped the tear from getting larger. Blends in well once you sit on it [:D]

[eljay]

Has anybody had their seats reupholstered? I have a set of Recaros that need it badly.

I'm afraid it will be cost prohibitive considering how labor intensive upholstery is...
It is costly. I replaced the bottom of my driver's Recaro seat. See here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/770256-Unicorn-Rescue!-My-B6-Avant-Ultrasport?p=12587434&viewfull=1#post12587434). I did the teardown myself, sourced the fabric and had an upholstery shop replace the fabric, then I re-assembled it. It still cost me around $300 for labour and materials. If you just bring the seat to a shop, it will be higher. Your best bet is to find a clean set of seats or just the skins if you're lucky. If you have black leather Recaros, it may be easier than the Alcantara combo I have.

[fR3ZNO]

It is costly. I replaced the bottom of my driver's Recaro seat. See here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/770256-Unicorn-Rescue!-My-B6-Avant-Ultrasport?p=12587434&viewfull=1#post12587434). I did the teardown myself, sourced the fabric and had an upholstery shop replace the fabric, then I re-assembled it. It still cost me around $300 for labour and materials. If you just bring the seat to a shop, it will be higher. Your best bet is to find a clean set of seats or just the skins if you're lucky. If you have black leather Recaros, it may be easier than the Alcantara combo I have.

Thanks for the info.

Mine are platinum. The driver's seat has it the worst in terms of damage, upper bolster and seat bottom are torn and have chunks of leather coming off. But the passenger front seat leather is dried out really bad, like if you poke your finger on the seat you can crack the leather...

[Spike00513]

what do you think about these reverse light tint strips

http://www.ebay.de/itm/C016-Ruckleuchten-Folie-Set-Dark-Grey-fur-Audi-A4-B6-Avant-8e-Aufkleber-S-Line/282000555852?hash=item41a88aff4c:g:vO0AAOSwJQdXC6E O

also, do they have to be pre-cut
what if you just cut some tint; if so, what shade/kind

and, should it be clear-coated over
but it's still a thick tint film,
what if instead, one just masks off the light, sprays a section of dark clear lacquer (thinner than film), and then clears over that
hopefully it will retain gloss and not be too dark

nevermind this sounds like a lot of work
I'll just be simple and keep it stock for now
but regardless, here's an idea I guess.

I think Hella offers some housings with a similar effect for the VW Mk4 platform,
idk how they make them.

http://www.ngpracing.com/newstore/images/detailed/15/IMG_1460.jpg
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/206469_x800.jpg

Not sure if it would dim the reverse light even more than it already is, necessitating a bulb upgrade

whole aftermarket housing = ew

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/DgRGm_Ejqe4/maxresdefault.jpg

https://www.sw-tuning.de/images/product_images/popup_images/25660_2.jpg

no this is unsafe over red lights unless LED
but still, the reflectors are meant to reflect at night when parked, to make the rear visible to passing cars

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRK3yG9WzLaf4u3DQV9wazsSTem9QGg3 HKboHtLZN14G5mPb4WE

here's a pic, but I didn't search well

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSbGEMObRPuO1he57MFgFlvqknal4Hw9 A__40DhtmMMOcs0R74_

[Spike00513]

saw this in Bimmerpost E39 section.
I wonder if it applies to B6 suspension option choice.


I'm very happy with the German made Suspension Technique ST X coilovers. I previously had the Bilstein PSS B14 for several years and 150k miles.....had multiple issues and sent them back repeatedly for warranty rebuild. Finally threw in the towel (they at least refunded my money). The ST X coilovers are much more comfortable, with a ride only slightly stiffer than the oem sport suspension. (admittedly the B14 kit handled better, but was rather harsh...noticeably so for my passengers)

If you order the ST X, here are my suggestions. Order the M5 application, it differs from the one spec'd for all other E39s in only two ways: It has more threads on the front strut body so you can raise the car more, to compensate for the additional weight (you won't need this)...you can still lower the same amount. And it includes the upper strut mounts for the front, so they come "ready to install", yet they cost exactly the same as the version without the mounts and additional threading. (its a no brainer to order the M5 version) Front upper strut mounts will easily cost you $75 for the pair.

Cost on Ebay is around $975 with shipping. I did a little negotiating with an Ebay seller with a "best offer" and they finally accepted $925 with free ship. Once a year, ST offers a mail in rebate of $100 for May/June, you just missed it. So I netted at $825 for a nice coilover set up.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1043753

[reggiesdesign]

Went to change my puddle lights and was following the instructions from a previous post. Seems simple enough except my existing puddle lights don't seem to want to come out. I can drop the first clip easy enough but the other clip feels very tight as though it would break if I pull any harder. Anyone else have this issue?? Tempted to try again and pull harder but don't want to break anything or pull wiring apart. Does this sound normal?

[freeloader700]

Having a hard time finding it. What is the torque spec for the four T55 bolts holding the two halfs of a S4 caliper together?

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[eljay]

Having a hard time finding it. What is the torque spec for the four T55 bolts holding the two halfs of a S4 caliper together?

Sent from my SM-G920V using TapatalkYou are not finding the spec, because they are not meant to be taken apart. If you didn't remove them yet, leave them alone. It's not necessary for the caliper rebuild.

[eljay]

Thanks for the info.

Mine are platinum. The driver's seat has it the worst in terms of damage, upper bolster and seat bottom are torn and have chunks of leather coming off. But the passenger front seat leather is dried out really bad, like if you poke your finger on the seat you can crack the leather...
Try Leatherique treatment on the dry leather. A few applications and keeping it warm should restore it.
The cracked parts may be restored with some if the leather restoration products too depending on the severity of the crack. If it's truly torn, I'd look for a spare seat or cover. The bottom seat skins are swappable between driver's and passenger's side.

[freeloader700]

You are not finding the spec, because they are not meant to be taken apart. If you didn't remove them yet, leave them alone. It's not necessary for the caliper rebuild.Too late... are they torque to yield bolts?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Gosser]

I’ve reused them and just gave them the beans. 30,000km and no issue. I’m sure there is a torque value that should be followed though.

[Spike00513]

B8 A4 sport seats
I wonder if they fit.

http://st.motortrend.com/uploads/sites/5/2011/08/2011-audi-A4-quattro-front-seating.jpg

[shurur9]

So I got the inner boot off of my front driver's side axle but the CV isn't like the one in the DIY. It's a bearing type and the axle is splined. I already took the circlip off the bottom of the axle. I'm assuming I can just use a punch and hammer to gradually pound the CV joint off the axle.

Just want to be sure before I end up wrecking the whole thing...

EDIT: Also, does anyone know if the 6 bolts that bolt the axle to the tranny are TTY? I can't find anything online that says they are or aren't, and I can't find part numbers for them. I ordered a kit from ECS that had the big bolt and 6 bolts for the axle, but the picture showed 6 really short bolts. My bolts are all like 2.5", maybe 3" long.

When I rebuilt my axles, I just took the outer CV joint off (with a cheap puller from ebay $19) and slid both the inner and outer boots off and on from that end.

The inner axle (drive shaft) joint would be a bear to take off...where as the outer will pop off with a little coaxing or a cheap puller.

[daught]

I have a bit of a vibration at low rpm right after I let go of the clutch in 1st and 2nd. As the rpm climbs it goes away and everything is normal. I just had my car sprayed with krown rust proofing. I wonder if some oil got on my clutch. It does not slip when accelerating hard when moving.

[rocket1420]

I’ve reused them and just gave them the beans. 30,000km and no issue. I’m sure there is a torque value that should be followed though.

Those are four ugga duggas.

[Nilya]

Hi all, I am going to install a DICE Audiovox ipod in my RNS-E and also wanted to install bluetooth. Can anyone point me in the right direction on which part I will need? I would like to control calls through the RNS-E. Thanks in advance

[Gekko]

Alright, here's my dumb question. I took apart some of the pcv tubes when I redid my valve cover gasket. Is it normal to have a small amount of oil in them? It's not like I could tilt them sideways and it ran out or anything, but if I take my finger and run it along the inside I can find some.

[2004a4b630QT]

Alright, here's my dumb question. I took apart some of the pcv tubes when I redid my valve cover gasket. Is it normal to have a small amount of oil in them? It's not like I could tilt them sideways and it ran out or anything, but if I take my finger and run it along the inside I can find some.

Yes it's normal. They eventually will get really gunked up and cause your valve cover to leak. Was yours leaking? If so consider replacing the hoses and PCV (pancake) valve. When your engine can't breathe freely, it builds up pressure in the crankcase and the valve covers leak and performance suffers. There are several threads on this. There are also a few catch can options if you have a 1.8t

[Gekko]

Yes it's normal. They eventually will get really gunked up and cause your valve cover to leak. Was yours leaking? If so consider replacing the hoses and PCV (pancake) valve. When your engine can't breathe freely, it builds up pressure in the crankcase and the valve covers leak and performance suffers. There are several threads on this. There are also a few catch can options if you have a 1.8t

Yup, it was leaking. I'll have to go back and swap out the hoses and the valve. Thank you!

[eljay]

Fighting with a CV joint...
Does anyone have tips on how to remove it?
All DIYs say to just smack it off the axle with a hammer. That's not working for me. :(

[DarkoNova]

Fighting with a CV joint...
Does anyone have tips on how to remove it?
All DIYs say to just smack it off the axle with a hammer. That's not working for me. :(

Rent a puller from AutoZone. I had a torn boot and tried pounding my CV off, didn't budge.

Rented a 3 jaw puller from AutoZone and had it off in minutes.

[eljay]

Rent a puller from AutoZone. I had a torn boot and tried pounding my CV off, didn't budge.

Rented a 3 jaw puller from AutoZone and had it off in minutes.
I've tried that too, but found that the screw/shaft of the puller was too thick at the bottom once it caught inside the axle and its bottom threads started deforming as I kept turning. And the joint still didn't let go. :(

[shurur9]

I've tried that too, but found that the screw/shaft of the puller was too thick at the bottom once it caught inside the axle and its bottom threads started deforming as I kept turning. And the joint still didn't let go. :(

9 Holes Transmission Drive Shaft Removal CV Joint Puller Propshaft Separator
https://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Holes-Transmission-Drive-Shaft-Removal-CV-Joint-Puller-Propshaft-Separator-/112056006627?hash=item1a170ef7e3

I had one CV joint just not come off at all..not even with the above tool...but fortunately it was a new axle that i just wanted to keep as a "hammer tool" and i had already made one already.
You might need to take it to a shop...or get it mounted in a vise; so you can give it a good even smacking.

[eljay]

Thanks guys.
I've spent two days on this.
Went to a shop around the corner: they don't do it. They simply sell customers new NAPA axle and sent the old one back as core.
Went to VW dealer: mechanic there said that they don't take them off and suggested to mount it in a vise and smack it - which I did for 2 days now!

Tried hooking up jaw puller with slide hammer to it, but couldn't get it to seat well enough to apply a good smack.
I'm at a loss. I really don't want to be buying a new axle.

On top of that, I figured as a preventative maintenance, I'd replace the driver's side wheel bearing since I have a new one and the axle is out. Well, I broke the bolt holding the ABS sensor and now the hub will not come out out of the bearing with a slide hammer. It worked easily on the passenger side, but will not move even after significant pounding. I feel like I'm gonna knock the car off the jack stands.
So, what started as a 4-day weekend with plan to replace just inner tie rods and replace CV boot is turning into quite a nightmare.
Oh yeah, the inner tie rods are done.
/rant & crying

[DarkoNova]

I've tried that too, but found that the screw/shaft of the puller was too thick at the bottom once it caught inside the axle and its bottom threads started deforming as I kept turning. And the joint still didn't let go. :(

Well I got the biggest puller AutoZone had. Cost like $140, lol.

And I used like a tiny washer on the end of the axle to keep the shaft from the puller from trying to go into the holes on the end of the axle.

Worked perfectly.

Then I just froze the axle overnight and put the CV in the oven for like 20 minutes and lightly pounded it back on.

[customa4]

Will a headlight washer cover from an S4 front bumper fit the A4 bumper(Both B6)?

[shurur9]

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t367/shurur/trunk%20liner%20thing_zpsod1rwp1z.jpg (http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/shurur/media/trunk%20liner%20thing_zpsod1rwp1z.jpg.html)

I removed trunk lid liner and this thing fell out.
It has been rattling around in there for some time.

it looks like an antenna..maybe??
Anyone know what it might be?

[shurur9]

Well I got the biggest puller AutoZone had. Cost like $140, lol.

And I used like a tiny washer on the end of the axle to keep the shaft from the puller from trying to go into the holes on the end of the axle.

Worked perfectly.

Then I just froze the axle overnight and put the CV in the oven for like 20 minutes and lightly pounded it back on.

Good job!!

[naconi]

I am trying to get the passenger front axle out to replace the outer boot on my 2004 A4 with 1.8T. I had to take the heat shield out and I can get it out of the hub but no matter I how move it around I cant get it out. I have tried turning the steering wheel all the way to the left and I have the inner joint moved over to the left and up because that seems to give me the most room. Should it be possible to get the axle out without removing the pinch bolt?

[DarkoNova]

Yes. I got mine out and back in without touching the pinch bolt.

It seems like keeping the wheels straight gives you the most room.

I didn't even touch my heat shield bolts.

Just make sure you compress the joints as much as possible. I was struggling and cussing up a storm but I tried pushing the inner joint into the trans to compress it and doing basically the same thing for the outer joint and it collapsed enough to get the axle out.

[eljay]

Well I got the biggest puller AutoZone had. Cost like $140, lol.

And I used like a tiny washer on the end of the axle to keep the shaft from the puller from trying to go into the holes on the end of the axle.

Worked perfectly.

Then I just froze the axle overnight and put the CV in the oven for like 20 minutes and lightly pounded it back on.
I finally found a shop that did it for me. I'll go pick it up tomorrow.
I'm pretty sure I've tried everything I found on the interwebs.

Next up: removing the upright knuckle out of the car in order to oress out a frozen bearing housing. Fun times.

[eljay]

I am trying to get the passenger front axle out to replace the outer boot on my 2004 A4 with 1.8T. I had to take the heat shield out and I can get it out of the hub but no matter I how move it around I cant get it out. I have tried turning the steering wheel all the way to the left and I have the inner joint moved over to the left and up because that seems to give me the most room. Should it be possible to get the axle out without removing the pinch bolt?
I found that it helps to jack up the suspension to the ride height and then move the inside end of the axle forward.
It may take a few adjustments on the jack to find the right spot for enough clearance.

[naconi]

Thanks, I tried that and still can't get it out. I saw a video on you tube and the guy had it out in about 10 seconds. I am pushing the joints together but I don't think the outer joint is compressing enough. The inner joint moves back and forth a couple of inches. I just barely threaded the axle bolt back in and when I hold the axle and push and pull the axle bolt it only moves maybe a 1/4 inch. That is the side with the torn boot so I don't know if the joint is damaged.

[shurur9]

Thanks, I tried that and still can't get it out. I saw a video on you tube and the guy had it out in about 10 seconds. I am pushing the joints together but I don't think the outer joint is compressing enough. The inner joint moves back and forth a couple of inches. I just barely threaded the axle bolt back in and when I hold the axle and push and pull the axle bolt it only moves maybe a 1/4 inch. That is the side with the torn boot so I don't know if the joint is damaged.

Maybe not the best method..but I use a 3/4" to 1" pipe and tape the crap out of the end.
I use it to leverage the spindle and pound out the CV axle.
The tape protects the splines.

[DarkoNova]

Any reviews on Malone tuning?

I know there was that recent thread with the sponsored build, but aside from that, anyone use them? I have the 3.0, and it looks like there's only one other company with a tune, JHM.

I believe it was Zingo that tuned his 3.0 and basically said the JHM tune doesn't really change much, so I'm not sure I want to spend $500 on it.

So I'm hoping Malone is legit.

[Pr1ce]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171130/c4e88ced8f1df50265e64fd48b15d112.jpg


I'm dumb need help


This hose that comes off the oil filter housing where does it go please.... it's the "further" back one of the 2 lines


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[old guy]

It connects to the upper coolant return hard pipe that runs above the intake manifold. It supplies coolant to the oil cooler. The coolant then exits the oil cooler into the lower coolant return hard pipe.

[SJorge3442]

Any reviews on Malone tuning?

I know there was that recent thread with the sponsored build, but aside from that, anyone use them? I have the 3.0, and it looks like there's only one other company with a tune, JHM.

I believe it was Zimbo that tuned his 3.0 and basically said the JHM tune doesn't really change much, so I'm not sure I want to spend $500 on it.

So I'm hoping Malone is legit.

JHM changes "enough". By that I mean they make some changes to help the car feel faster like adjusting the throttle position map and Im not sure what else. It will def make your car feel more alive. kompresd has revised his 3.0 tune as well and when I run that ECU in my 3.0 the car feels great. That reminds me, I need to message him and get the new update from him to remove the 2-step.

[Pr1ce]

It connects to the upper coolant return hard pipe that runs above the intake manifold. It supplies coolant to the oil cooler. The coolant then exits the oil cooler into the lower coolant return hard pipe.

You're right!!!!! Genius OG thank you sir.

I got the completely in a mess and trying to figure out the puzzle

[jpulll]

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t367/shurur/trunk%20liner%20thing_zpsod1rwp1z.jpg (http://s1056.photobucket.com/user/shurur/media/trunk%20liner%20thing_zpsod1rwp1z.jpg.html)

I removed trunk lid liner and this thing fell out.
It has been rattling around in there for some time.

it looks like an antenna..maybe??
Anyone know what it might be?

Your picture is not posting in the thread but I saw it through the thread preview.

It is a bracket. It holds the license lamp assembly in place. There are 4 of those. Pain in the ass, they rust, they don’t make them easily accessible/purchasable, for instance ECS doesn’t carry them unless you REALLY search for it. A nylon spacer/washer and a stainless nut has been doing fine for me.

I would check things over. Probably need to clean the corrosion off. There are plenty of threads which can help you out.


Sent from my iPhone

[DarkoNova]

JHM changes "enough". By that I mean they make some changes to help the car feel faster like adjusting the throttle position map and Im not sure what else. It will def make your car feel more alive. kompresd has revised his 3.0 tune as well and when I run that ECU in my 3.0 the car feels great. That reminds me, I need to message him and get the new update from him to remove the 2-step.

Yeah, I was on the nefmoto site and saw zingo's thread and his tune sounded awesome. I was going to try my hand at replicating it myself but I don't have the time. He made it seem like JHM didn't even touch cam timing so that's why I decided not to go with them. I emailed k0mpresd and he seemed kind of.... condescending, I guess? So I don't know if I want to go with his tune either.

I know, if the tune is good, the company/person's attitude shouldn't matter...

What did you have done to your car when you had the k0mpresd tune? I have nothing right now except the airbox mods, but I plan on catless downpipes or pipes with high flow cats and then 2.5" exhaust.

[SJorge3442]

Yeah, I was on the nefmoto site and saw zingo's thread and his tune sounded awesome. I was going to try my hand at replicating it myself but I don't have the time. He made it seem like JHM didn't even touch cam timing so that's why I decided not to go with them. I emailed k0mpresd and he seemed kind of.... condescending, I guess? So I don't know if I want to go with his tune either.

I know, if the tune is good, the company/person's attitude shouldn't matter...

What did you have done to your car when you had the k0mpresd tune? I have nothing right now except the airbox mods, but I plan on catless downpipes or pipes with high flow cats and then 2.5" exhaust.My 3.0 is stock performance wise aside from resonator delete and magnaflow x pipe which I assume doesn't matter. The kompresd tune certainly feels better and I like the tune cause I use it for emissions purposes cause my cat(s) are bad. But he had an issue with 2 step blowing coils which he has sonce corrected.

Zimbu did ALOT for 3.0 tuning and he knows a lot. Id use his tune if it had the o2 sensors coded out, but it doesnt. Either way. All the tunes remap the throttle which is where 80% of the perceived power increase comes from on a naturally aspirated motor.

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk

[DarkoNova]

Yeah i thought about using his tune but he made it for too high and dry of an elevation so I'm afraid of killing my engine with it.

I may try k0mpresd's tune since it's only a couple hundred.

Especially if it's a noticeable difference on a basically stock setup.

[shurur9]

Your picture is not posting in the thread but I saw it through the thread preview.

It is a bracket. It holds the license lamp assembly in place. There are 4 of those. Pain in the ass, they rust, they don’t make them easily accessible/purchasable, for instance ECS doesn’t carry them unless you REALLY search for it. A nylon spacer/washer and a stainless nut has been doing fine for me.

I would check things over. Probably need to clean the corrosion off. There are plenty of threads which can help you out.


Sent from my iPhone

Thanks!

Yup the entire AL light housing has oxidized and expanded its way out of the trunk a bit; so I will be visiting this whole thing as soon as I tap out the rear license plate holder bolt!
Now I know what it is, what it does and what to search for!!

[SJorge3442]

Yeah i thought about using his tune but he made it for too high and dry of an elevation so I'm afraid of killing my engine with it.

I may try k0mpresd's tune since it's only a couple hundred.

Especially if it's a noticeable difference on a basically stock setup.

Hmm. I never thought about that part. You could always monitor AFR and make sure it was solid. I don't know how crazy he got with the fueling or if the ECU wouldnt be able to compensate. Its certainly a risk. Thats why i never ran it, but If i had some tinkering time, I'd totally try it.

[MetalMan]

Searched around but failed to find anything relevant...
Does anyone know how to change out a window slot seal? It's the trim piece at the bottom edge of the side windows. They tend to bend over time and not stay put.
It seems like I may just be able to pull the old one off with the window rolled down; just curious if I'll need to remove the window frame or something like that.

[DarkoNova]

Hmm. I never thought about that part. You could always monitor AFR and make sure it was solid. I don't know how crazy he got with the fueling or if the ECU wouldnt be able to compensate. Its certainly a risk. Thats why i never ran it, but If i had some tinkering time, I'd totally try it.

I figured the ECU should be able to compensate but I don't want to risk it. I may have to do more research now, lol.

[customa4]

What are you guys using for error free LED reverse bulbs?

[b1337]

What are you guys using for error free LED reverse bulbs?

ebay specials, 2 years no probs

[MetalMan]

Searched around but failed to find anything relevant...
Does anyone know how to change out a window slot seal? It's the trim piece at the bottom edge of the side windows. They tend to bend over time and not stay put.
It seems like I may just be able to pull the old one off with the window rolled down; just curious if I'll need to remove the window frame or something like that.

Anybody? Window frame has to come off?

[eljay]

Anybody? Window frame has to come off?
Here's what I could find on that:
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/how-to-replace-them-chrome-window-seals-without-taking-out-the-window-frame-on-a-audi.136974/
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/audi-a4-avant-chrome-trming.112517/

[MetalMan]

Here's what I could find on that:
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/how-to-replace-them-chrome-window-seals-without-taking-out-the-window-frame-on-a-audi.136974/
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/audi-a4-avant-chrome-trming.112517/

Thanks, but unfortunately these pages don't help. This is the part for reference:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/rear-outer-window-slot-seal-left/8e0839477c/
Based on appearance it seems the window frame needs to be removed. I may just start by removing the door car to see how it all looks (if nobody else chimes in).

[kabukie]

Thanks, but unfortunately these pages don't help. This is the part for reference:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/rear-outer-window-slot-seal-left/8e0839477c/
Based on appearance it seems the window frame needs to be removed. I may just start by removing the door car to see how it all looks (if nobody else chimes in).
I remember reading somewhere in order to change the window trim that you have to take the window frame apart

[MetalMan]

I remember reading somewhere in order to change the window trim that you have to take the window frame apart

We must be looking for the same source of info, haha. It makes sense, that it would somehow clip on the back-side and can only be removed with the window frame out of the way.

[eljay]

Thanks, but unfortunately these pages don't help. This is the part for reference:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/rear-outer-window-slot-seal-left/8e0839477c/
Based on appearance it seems the window frame needs to be removed. I may just start by removing the door car to see how it all looks (if nobody else chimes in).
This doesn't help, but perhaps gives you a better idea on what's there:
https://youtu.be/uedMxiegG8E

[MetalMan]

This doesn't help, but perhaps gives you a better idea on what's there:
https://youtu.be/uedMxiegG8E

I appreciate your diligence! Looks like that is a B7? Which uses a different window slot seal.

So it turns out the reason why there's no info on replacing these pieces is because it's SO EASY. Literally just lift the old one out, and push the new one down. Gotta make sure it goes down all the way consistently across the seal, but it's a cake-walk. I only realized this after already removing the top part of the door frame seal and the door card, but no major loss (save for a few door card clips...).

[customa4]

What are you guys using for error free LED reverse bulbs?

Any suggestions?

[eljay]

I appreciate your diligence! Looks like that is a B7? Which uses a different window slot seal.

So it turns out the reason why there's no info on replacing these pieces is because it's SO EASY. Literally just lift the old one out, and push the new one down. Gotta make sure it goes down all the way consistently across the seal, but it's a cake-walk. I only realized this after already removing the top part of the door frame seal and the door card, but no major loss (save for a few door card clips...).
Good to hear that you got it sorted! Yes, the first couple of links made it sound like it just pulls off. But I don't blame you for trying to see if someone did that before messing up a door seal and getting water into the door. :)

[QuattroVAG]

For anyone that has replaced their amplifier (bose or non-bose) what is your best guess on the wire gauge for the oem power wires ?


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[fR3ZNO]

Any suggestions?

I tried various eBay "canbus" LED bulbs and would still get an error. Got these (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ziza-parts/led-license-plate-light-assembly-set/b7ledlp~ziz/)from ECS a few years ago and haven't had an issue since.

[SendIt360]

I tried various eBay "canbus" LED bulbs and would still get an error. Got these (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ziza-parts/led-license-plate-light-assembly-set/b7ledlp~ziz/)from ECS a few years ago and haven't had an issue since.

Do we need the whole canbus thing to avoid the code? Looking at various led headlight bulbs, some with canbus some without

[Gosser]

Any suggestions?

These:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cree-LED-11W-Projector-bulb-7506-1156-BA15s-P21W-No-Error-Reverse-Backup-Lights/152019871542?hash=item2365172736:g:6ZoAAOSwmmxW6jz v&vxp=mtr
https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/6661.jpg
I've had them in my S4 since 2013/30,000km/18xxxmiles, my wifes A4 since 2016/20,000km, and my D2, now my CVT A4.
The only problem I've had with them, was with the D2. Because the reverse lights are apart of the trunk lid, one of the bases separated from the light from too much shock I guess. I JB welded it back together and its now in my CVT doing its thing. The projector lens ring also needed to be loctited. But no issues with those in the B6s. They are bright and no error codes ever.

[fR3ZNO]

Do we need the whole canbus thing to avoid the code? Looking at various led headlight bulbs, some with canbus some without

Yes. The canbus just means the LED has a certain resistance similar to that of a traditional filament based bulb.

[SendIt360]

Yes. The canbus just means the LED has a certain resistance similar to that of a traditional filament based bulb.

Thanks for the info. That truly was a question I thought was too dumb to ask haha

[fR3ZNO]

Thanks for the info. That truly was a question I thought was too dumb to ask haha

no worries! [up]

[jpulll]

Need some help from the retrofitting veterans. Seems like every thread is a little different on how the kufatec harness is built for the Bluetooth retrofit.

Kufatec instructions I found, I have added my comments, questions:

- 3-pole connector including the FAKRA connector will be connected to the
compensor. {{ Bluetooth connection }}

- 2-pole connector will be connected to the microphone {{ Self explanatory }}

- 10-pole red connector (only for radio) will be connceted to the radio (empty slot) {{ Self explanatory }}

- Black/white – can high – connect to 20-pole mini iso connector pin 7 {{ Pin 9 Connector D on RNSE }}

- Black/green – can low – connect to 20-pole mini iso connector pin 12 {{ Pin 10 Connector D on RNSE }}

- Brown – ground {{ Self explanatory }}

- Red / white fuse S 32-34 (+12V) {{ F8 in the FUSE BOX - telephone/telematics }}

- Yellow – diagnosis – connect to 8 pole radio-connector pin 3 {{ K-Line wire, which one though I see a couple on connector B (K-line) and D (KL.31 and KL.30) }}

I’m just confused on the fuse and K-line wiring. Wondering what location is for what. K-Line 30 sounds familiar. Picture of my harness below.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171207/58332fd0e88a03574c7a3ad7445045da.jpg




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[squeegy200]

Need help resolving a P0302 error.
It only occurs while the engine is cold. If I warm it up, clear the code, I can drive it around all day long and the code does not return.

From searching the forums, My first plan was to replace spark plug and Coilpack. I replaced all four. I cleaned the contacts and checked the wiring harness for fraying and damage. This worked to eliminate the CEL for a few days but the issue has now returned.

From reading further, Some indicated that it might be the Ignition Control Module (ICM). But I'm not certain that my AMB motor has an ICM. I've stumbled across a couple of articles that indicated my engine code does not have an ICM.

Another theory states that it could also be caused by a faulty PCV. I don't know how to test a PCV. Looking for replacement PCVs on the ECStuning website, it looks like I have one on top near the back of the engine. However, I also remember replacing one underneath the intake manifold awhile back.

An additional theory is that the fuel injector to cylinder 2 may need replacement. I cleaned the electrical contacts for Fuel Injector two but that did not seem to make any improvement. All of the Fuel Injector seals seem to be the same. But I'd like further confirmation before throwing money out there for a replacement Fuel Injector.

If the above steps do not improve the condition, then I'll perform a compression test.

Any suggestions or recommendations appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[old guy]

As you already know a P0302 is for a cylinder #2 misfire. You eliminated the coil packs and spark plugs. You can try moving the #2 fuel injector to another position and see if the misfire follows the injector. I don't think you have an electrical issue. An electrical issue usually gives you some sort of code such as an open circuit or short to ground.

Are you losing any coolant at all? Another possibility is a cracked head leaking a small amount of coolant into the #2 cylinder. It will cause a cold misfire but otherwise will run fine.

[squeegy200]

As you already know a P0302 is for a cylinder #2 misfire. You eliminated the coil packs and spark plugs. You can try moving the #2 fuel injector to another position and see if the misfire follows the injector. I don't think you have an electrical issue. An electrical issue usually gives you some sort of code such as an open circuit or short to ground.

Are you losing any coolant at all? Another possibility is a cracked head leaking a small amount of coolant into the #2 cylinder. It will cause a cold misfire but otherwise will run fine.Darn it! I recently cracked the rear coolant flange. It's since been repaired but likelihood that I have some sort of coolant related crack in the head is a definite possibility. At present no coolant loss and it's been pressure tested.

I'm going to relocate the fuel injector to eliminate the possibility of a faulty injector.


But the coolant contamination theory may be the culprit.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[Luxus Panzer]

My battery sucks balls in the cold. Can I install a small battery maintainer behind the firewall and plug it in every night?

I have a battery blanket, however either it is not working well (old) or warmth is not enough.

Any downside to using a battery maintainer every night over the winter months?

[eljay]

My battery sucks balls in the cold. Can I install a small battery maintainer behind the firewall and plug it in every night?

I have a battery blanket, however either it is not working well (old) or warmth is not enough.

Any downside to using a battery maintainer every night over the winter months?No issues. The battery tender would work. However, they sometimes take a while to properly refresh the battery, so 8 hours or so may not be enough as they are meant more for longer term storage.
I use Ctek one for my other car stored over the winter and it does an excellent job with that battery going strong 6 years plus whatever length the previous owner had it.

That said, a quality tender will cost you about half of the cost of a new battery and you would just be delaying the inevitable and risking needing a boost when you park somewhere else on a very cold day. So, I would just get a new battery.

[Luxus Panzer]

No issues. The battery tender would work. However, they sometimes take a while to properly refresh the battery, so 8 hours or so may not be enough as they are meant more for longer term storage.
I use Ctek one for my other car stored over the winter and it does an excellent job with that battery going strong 6 years plus whatever length the previous owner had it.

That said, a quality tender will cost you about half of the cost of a new battery and you would just be delaying the inevitable and risking needing a boost when you park somewhere else on a very cold day. So, I would just get a new battery.

Follow up question...

I am going to check if I have a parasitic drain.

I have one question tho As I understand the process I will be removing fuses until the drain (if one is found) goes away, thus isolating the circuit.

I will have to have my DS door and hood open to do so...will the electronics in the car properly "go to sleep" with the door and hood open?

Got a new battery today, however, I have needed a new batt between Dec and Feb every year for the past 3 years. They have all been free due to a 3 year replacement warranty. full disclosure...junk Wal Mart battery.

[fR3ZNO]

Follow up question...

I am going to check if I have a parasitic drain.

I have one question tho As I understand the process I will be removing fuses until the drain (if one is found) goes away, thus isolating the circuit.

I will have to have my DS door and hood open to do so...will the electronics in the car properly "go to sleep" with the door and hood open?

Got a new battery today, however, I have needed a new batt between Dec and Feb every year for the past 3 years. They have all been free due to a 3 year replacement warranty. full disclosure...junk Wal Mart battery.


https://youtu.be/lRcj1fQcWwU

[Luxus Panzer]

https://youtu.be/lRcj1fQcWwU

Link does not work

[fR3ZNO]

Link does not work

Try it now

[Luxus Panzer]

Try it now
Now it's not a link ;)

[fR3ZNO]

Now it's not a link ;)

The link wasn’t embedding the video. Came up fine in tapatalk so idk

[customa4]

The link wasn’t embedding the video. Came up fine in tapatalk so idk

Works for me. Here's the direct link. https://youtu.be/lRcj1fQcWwU

[fR3ZNO]

Works for me. Here's the direct link. https://youtu.be/lRcj1fQcWwU

Thanks. Haha.

Tapatalk automatically embeds the video without having to use the BB code, just posting the url is enough.

[Pr1ce]

I need help with identifying injectors.... I purchased a car about a year ago that had these injectors installed with a 68mm turbo and ran great etc etc etc...

well now I’d like to know what they are lol
Curiosity is killing me but I’ve had no luck.... maybe y’all can assist?


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171216/e381e81958d618e71971507337bca7ba.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171216/9d2562d8c7dc2c757333c604de6f90f3.jpg

When I’ve search the only red injectors that come up often is fiveOmotorsports
Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[old guy]

Definitely five-0 Red Devils.

[Pr1ce]

^ I should’ve known you’d be the answer haha

That’s what I was thinking but the numbers on the side don’t match an inventory I’ve found. I’m trying to figure out the cc of em so I can either keep or upgrade or downgrade lol

[old guy]

^ I should’ve known you’d be the answer haha

That’s what I was thinking but the numbers on the side don’t match an inventory I’ve found. I’m trying to figure out the cc of em so I can either keep or upgrade or downgrade lol

What are the numbers on the side?

If you are running 4 bar fuel pressure you are flowing 635 cc/min.

52.3 lbs/hr, 550 cc/min at 43.5 psi (3.0 BAR)
56.8 lbs/hr, 596 cc/min at 50.8 psi (3.5 BAR)
60.5 lbs/hr, 635 cc/min at 58.0 psi (4.0 BAR)

[Pr1ce]

The only marking on the entire injector is the 060 and 592

Otherwise they are “blank”

[old guy]

The only marking on the entire injector is the 060 and 592

Otherwise they are “blank”

Does it look like the numbers were ground off? I have been searching for quite a while to correctly identify the injectors and I have found that there are several different Bosch "Red Devil" injectors available in different flow rates. Without reading the numbers it will be impossible to identify the flow rate without actually measuring it. I suspect that they were marketed by someone that ground the numbers off to make them a proprietary item.

If you really want to know you should be able to get a decent estimate of the flow rate yourself. Normally flow rates are conducted using Heptane at either 3 bar or 4 bar pressure. You will have to estimate the rate at 4 bar with gasoline but it should still be fairly accurate.

To do this you will have to remove your injector rail and have one of your injectors spray into a glass jar or other suitable container. Next you will have to turn the key on and provide a jumper across the fuel pump relay power input as well as provide power to the selected injector. As soon as you jumper the relay you will need to keep the relay activated for one minute and then measure the output in cc's.

[Pr1ce]

Definitely the answer i was looking for and not the answer i was looking for either lol i was afraid id have to test em [down]

Gotta love lack of part numbers lol. I have a Garrett turbo i need identifying as well... wanna help with that too OG? lol

[mobilesuit818]

Silly question and I’ve searched but couldn’t find an answer. Thoughts of using the B8 2.0t Front Intercooler in lieu of our B6 1.8t pipe that sits underneath the radiator?

I just happen to have one (just sold my b8) and might try it out.

Worth mentioning that the b8’s have plastic end tanks.


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[texasboy21]

Silly question and I’ve searched but couldn’t find an answer. Thoughts of using the B8 2.0t Front Intercooler in lieu of our B6 1.8t pipe that sits underneath the radiator?

I just happen to have one (just sold my b8) and might try it out.

Worth mentioning that the b8’s have plastic end tanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

More surface area and a better location. Get an ebay B6 piping kit and see how it does. [up]

[fR3ZNO]

Does anybody have any experience with the RNSE adapters from eBay out of China? All the older DIY's for RNSE retrofit have Kufatec listed as the main source for them, the other US sellers that are listed seem to be defunct now.

[my1stturbo]

What's the best way to tell if air in the coolant system again? Had no heat last year, replaced heater core and had good heat all winter, car has been sitting for a little while and just took it for a spin(of course when it's 20 degrees out) and at idle heat is lukewarm again. Driving it's fine. My head was rebuilt after a failed timing belt, but not sure if somehow it's leaking.

[jpulll]

What's the best way to tell if air in the coolant system again? Had no heat last year, replaced heater core and had good heat all winter, car has been sitting for a little while and just took it for a spin(of course when it's 20 degrees out) and at idle heat is lukewarm again. Driving it's fine. My head was rebuilt after a failed timing belt, but not sure if somehow it's leaking.

You probably have an air bubble in there. Keep purging the system. I had to squeeze the coolant tubes to kind of force the movement of the fluid through the heater core. Just takes repetitive patience.


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[Matt Devo]

Does anybody have any experience with the RNSE adapters from eBay out of China? All the older DIY's for RNSE retrofit have Kufatec listed as the main source for them, the other US sellers that are listed seem to be defunct now.

most people have been using them for a while now. The only thing to double check upon receipt is that they are wired correctly for a RNS-E and not a Symphony II+/Concert III -- there's 2 or 3 wires different.

[fR3ZNO]

most people have been using them for a while now. The only thing to double check upon receipt is that they are wired correctly for a RNS-E and not a Symphony II+/Concert III -- there's 2 or 3 wires different.

Gotcha. Thanks for the heads up!

[Spike00513]

Silly question and I’ve searched but couldn’t find an answer. Thoughts of using the B8 2.0t Front Intercooler in lieu of our B6 1.8t pipe that sits underneath the radiator?

I just happen to have one (just sold my b8) and might try it out.

Worth mentioning that the b8’s have plastic end tanks.

Speaking of B8 parts put onto B6's,
I remember some guy figured out how to fit a more-amp B8 alternator, onto his B6 USP.
The difference was some plastic tab for a couple bucks.

People even have put B8 wheels onto their B6, but IDK how good it looks...

I think B7 2.0T uses DSMIC, vs FMIC.

[Thenextsenna]

I'm pulling my hair out trying to diagnose this noise, it sounds like a boost leak but the car runs fine, Motoza 1+ and boosts to 22 psi. Sent logs to the guys at Motoza and the report was that the car was running in tip top shape. The noise starts at about 10 psi when the car is warm and sounds like the sputter gets faster as rpm increases. When the car is cold it starts around 3-4 psi. Ive pressure tested for leaks and didn't find anything. Most of the audi "gurus" in my town have looked at the car and have not come up with anything.

(sorry if you have to copy and paste the link)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99IFhSCUOHc

[Natejo91]

Does anyone know if the comfort control module from a B7 can be swapped into a B6 with no issues? (other than using VAGCOM to recode it?)
Reason I ask is that I am going to swap the comfort control module in order try and get my key fob to work again.
But rather than just searching Ebay for the same part number I was thinking about swapping in a B7 unit in case I want to put in a B7 steering wheel later on.
Can i use any B7 CCM or do i need a specific one?

[Razgriz227]

I’m in the process of restoring my exterior, before I get my respray I wanted to see if anyone has replaced the black rubber window molding trim? I couldn’t find anywhere to source new trim from that wasn’t the chrome. Maybe I should just paint or dip it. Suggestions anyone?


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[SendIt360]

I’m in the process of restoring my exterior, before I get my respray I wanted to see if anyone has replaced the black rubber window molding trim? I couldn’t find anywhere to source new trim from that wasn’t the chrome. Maybe I should just paint or dip it. Suggestions anyone?


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I’m confused, are you looking for the rubber weather trim or the chrome window moulding (around and under windows)? If it’s the moulding, I would recommend a vinyl wrap. I dipped mine a while ago and it was great for a month but started to peel against the doors as it is such a high friction area. I know several people who have wrapped theirs and they are very satisfied, I will be doing the same in the near future.

[Razgriz227]

I’m confused, are you looking for the rubber weather trim or the chrome window moulding (around and under windows)? If it’s the moulding, I would recommend a vinyl wrap. I dipped mine a while ago and it was great for a month but started to peel against the doors as it is such a high friction area. I know several people who have wrapped theirs and they are very satisfied, I will be doing the same in the near future.

Mine is the black rubber moulding as I have a 1.8t. Which is what I would like to replace.


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[Gosser]

Does anyone know if the comfort control module from a B7 can be swapped into a B6 with no issues? (other than using VAGCOM to recode it?)
Reason I ask is that I am going to swap the comfort control module in order try and get my key fob to work again.
But rather than just searching Ebay for the same part number I was thinking about swapping in a B7 unit in case I want to put in a B7 steering wheel later on.
Can i use any B7 CCM or do i need a specific one?

I cannot comment on the B7 CCM into the B6, but I do know that to retrofit a B7 wheel, the CCM does not come into play. If your car doesnt have a multifunction wheel already, then you only need to replace the steering wheel control module and slip ring. I should note that the B7 wheel is a dual stage air bag, and the B6 is a single stage air bag. You will want to swap in a wheel that retains the single stage air bag.