questions you thought were too dumb to ask

[PashaS4]

^^^
Thank you for the response.

[Ace]

Or check with ECS Tuning, they got some also.
And if not those then i would also say H&R.

[PashaS4]

^^^

Thanks!

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Ill be happy to recommend spacers feel free to shoot me a PM!

Jason

[PashaS4]

^^^

Thank you!
I will contact you in a few days.

[Avant_Garde]

S4 blades on a non-s4, I take it they will bolt right up no problems? Car currently has USP blades

[Charles.waite]

Sure. THey aren't a whole lot different than the USP blades though...

[Avant_Garde]

Sure. THey aren't a whole lot different than the USP blades though...

Thanks for the quick reply. I know they aren't too much different, but I like how aggressive they look. One of my blades' clips is starting to rust out so just looking at options on maybe upgrading the car to S4 blades in time

[DownhillA4]

^^^

Yes, yes I do know that there is an S4/RS4 section, but it seems to me like the A4 section is a lot more active than the S4 section, and people get back to you a lot faster,
but oh well I guys I will take my question to the S4 section....

Thanks for the quick response by the way.

Wasn't being a douche, just trying to make you aware of a piece of the forums that may be more helpful too you if you didn't already know.

[Runin2Rich]

Are the B7 Door blades more aggressive than the standard b6 blades? If so, has anyone swapped? I tried search but nothing showed up .

[Runin2Rich]

Never mind, I found the answer. Man I hate being a noob again. :(

[FoRbAnNa]

Could a faulty N75 valve causing my car to have an asthma attack everytime I get past 2400rpm when going WOT in any given gear?[:/]
My car started acting up when I took it for a drive on tuesday and has been like that since. Everytime I go past 2500rpm when I floor it the car starts to dump boost like a crazy person. I have to granny shift now because the car sounds absolutely ridiculous when I accelerate. I haven't done anything to the car for quite a while other than replace plugs. Used VAGcom today and it doesn't show any faults. Car feels like like an 1.8 without a turbo at the moment. Mods are in my sig.

[old guy]

Check the vacuum/boost signal line to the DV. If it cannot provide boost pressure to the DV it will dump the boost as soon as you go past the DV spring pressure. If that checks out run a boost leak test. Could be a split boost track hose somewhere.

[FoRbAnNa]

Check the vacuum/boost signal line to the DV. If it cannot provide boost pressure to the DV it will dump the boost as soon as you go past the DV spring pressure. If that checks out run a boost leak test. Could be a split boost track hose somewhere.

You think the DV is the cause rather than the N75? Before this happen my car have always been "jerking" around a bit when I accelerate from a dead stop. The boost doesn't build up smooth, it's a bit rough If I don't change gear in the right rpm. It's been like that ever since I got the stage 1 flash 2 years ago. Since I got the flash unit I can reflash back to stock anytime I want to and then it's all smooth and nice. But after the first time I flashed the car I have later on installed the Forge 007, FMIC, HFC, new intake and so on but it haven't made any difference. I've done numerous boost leak tests to no avail, did the last leak test a few months ago. Thats why I was wondering if the N75 could have something to do with it. I can do a leak test this weekend and see if I find the source.

[old guy]

You can check to see if it's the N75 by either clamping or disconnecting the boost signal line from the N75 to the waste gate. If your boost comes back the problem is with the N75 or the signal to the N75. Be careful doing this test because the ECM will no longer have any control over the N75 and you will be running unregulated boost.

If this doesn't make any difference then the problem is somewhere else. Probably what I mentioned earlier.

[CHARLES A4]

What's a good size for a fmic piping? Frankenturbo aprox 250hp

[Seerlah]

2.25" will be just fine. 2.5" if you wanted. Or 2.25" hot side, 2.5" cold side. Also be sure to use a good intercooler, as these turbochargers have a rep of having some rather high IATs due to the size vs power output.

[PashaS4]

Does any one know where I can get a good deal on a Radiator Support for a 2004 S4.
By the way I have searched high and low, been looking for like a week now!

[oleek]

Does anybody know how to view mpg, average speed and so on in the centre display inn a car without the buttons on the left lever?

I can do this on my 2004 b6 1,9 tdi, but my friend cannot.. The only thing he can view is the miles to empty

Sorry for my bad english :p

[Charles.waite]

You can swap in a new wiper stalk with the buttons, but thats the only way.

[Seerlah]

Does any one know where I can get a good deal on a Radiator Support for a 2004 S4.
By the way I have searched high and low, been looking for like a week now!

Start searching

http://forums.fourtitude.com/forumdisplay.php?905-S4-(B6-and-B7)-Parts

[onceover]

car-part.com

[john_gonzo]

Post 485:
~"If you have oil in your coils, what's the issue?"

Post 486:
"...in a valve cover gasket kit, there are seals that go around your spark plug cylinder. When that seal is compromised, you get oil in that cylinder which will end up on your plug and ignition coil."


For the 3.0 V6, another potential leakage point is between the guide frame and the cylinder head. Looks like the 1.8 has camshaft bearing caps, so no guide frame.

[oleek]

You can swap in a new wiper stalk with the buttons, but thats the only way.

Thank You !:)

[westie180]

brake job: c clamp with old pad as shim, proper piston tool, or have a shop do it since i won't be able to do it until i get home from school anyway?

[onceover]

For fronts that's just fine. Rears you need a special tool

[PashaS4]

Post #521: Thank you, I will search there too.

Post # 522: Car part has 2 of them and they wont ship.

[westie180]

For fronts that's just fine. Rears you need a special tool

what special tool? i'm looking at the caliper tool at harbor freight.

[Kingzilla17]

Any suggestions for post 482?

[vhstejskal]

Does any one know where I can get a good deal on a Radiator Support for a 2004 S4.
By the way I have searched high and low, been looking for like a week now!

There are a couple S4 part outs in the classified on the zine and try fourtitude (some might be the same people) but there are quite a bit more there...

[CHARLES A4]

Is there a way to get the rear windows to go all the way down???

[westie180]

where they presently park is all the way down.

[CHARLES A4]

where they presently park is all the way down.

huh lol

[FoRbAnNa]

Check the vacuum/boost signal line to the DV. If it cannot provide boost pressure to the DV it will dump the boost as soon as you go past the DV spring pressure. If that checks out run a boost leak test. Could be a split boost track hose somewhere.

Got the problem fixed today. It was the vacuum/boost line to the DV that had come off under the intake manifold. You were right on the money as always old guy, thanks! [:)]

[old guy]

Got the problem fixed today. It was the vacuum/boost line to the DV that had come off under the intake manifold. You were right on the money as always old guy, thanks! [:)]

Cool! [up]

[jteethwrecks]

Question.

Head rest unit rattles, both driver's and passenger's, as well as one of the ones in the rear. Is there a solution to this!? Besides replacing them.

[boy412]

Does anyone know if the dust boots on B5 S4 front carriers are replaceable? I've seen the DIY on A4Mods that shows them being pried off...but I have not seen the part itself available for purchase.

http://www.a4mods.com/pics/caliperrebuild/thumbs/IMG_1916.JPG

These calipers are such a pain in the dick. They stop really well but the lack of replacement parts is pretty annoying.

[airjordan223]

what special tool? i'm looking at the caliper tool at harbor freight.

You can rent the caliper piston compressor for free from autozone, o'riellys etc

[PashaS4]

Still cant find S4 radiator core supports.

[Myst420]

what special tool? i'm looking at the caliper tool at harbor freight.

The tool rotates the caliper piston as in pushes in. If you look at the piston, you will see 2 small dimples in it.

http://img.tapatalk.com/467fecd7-3e55-81ca.jpg



Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[A4.1.8turboo]

sooo ie been searching. I have noticed that when Im on the computer, it gives me more accurate posts on the subject. As for mobile, it gives me like 4 and then random threads... but anyway, my problem is the engine idle. at idle, it feels like my motor has tiny misfires. kind of like if it had a smalllllll twitch. I read this one thread, and bunch of people said they had the same problem, but no definite answer.? Drives perfect, but just those little twitches at idle bug the shiiit out of me. btw passengers don't feel it. only I can. cause it is mine n I notice everything. lol

[iamshayan]

why can I not boost over 10 psi while my air conditioning is on.

[vhstejskal]

why can I not boost over 10 psi while my air conditioning is on.

Could this be caused by heat soak; where the added heat from the AC condenser and possible higher operating temperature be effecting your IC's ability to cool incoming air.

[A4Turbo04]

Ok, I have oil in my coils and I've been told I need a valve cover gasket and spark plug cylinder seal.
Now my engine studders on start up my CEL blinks on&off then it stops and white smoke comes out the exhaust. Can anyone give me a list of parts that I need please. Or tell me what else is wrong [confused]

[Myst420]

Ok, I have oil in my coils and I've been told I need a valve cover gasket and spark plug cylinder seal.
Now my engine studders on start up my CEL blinks on&off then it stops and white smoke comes out the exhaust. Can anyone give me a list of parts that I need please. Or tell me what else is wrong [confused]

Your cel blinking means you have a misfire. I would start by changing your valve cover gasket and spark plugs, and see what happens.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[AutoUnionLov3r]

sooo ie been searching. I have noticed that when Im on the computer, it gives me more accurate posts on the subject. As for mobile, it gives me like 4 and then random threads... but anyway, my problem is the engine idle. at idle, it feels like my motor has tiny misfires. kind of like if it had a smalllllll twitch. I read this one thread, and bunch of people said they had the same problem, but no definite answer.? Drives perfect, but just those little twitches at idle bug the shiiit out of me. btw passengers don't feel it. only I can. cause it is mine n I notice everything. lol

Seems like whatever little gremlins plague your engine at idle do the same tinkering with mine too.. I have no idea what it is exactly but I'm experiencing the same thing..


Also I have another dumb question, sometimes when I get into boost at WOT then slowly ease off the peddle my car has this little bucking feeling. It's like my peddle isn't smoothly operating my throttle body cause it also feels as though I get more power/torque between 1/4 and 1/3 throttle... It's like I have to slowly press then depress the peddle to get the optimal power...

[A4Turbo04]

Your cel blinking means you have a misfire. I would start by changing your valve cover gasket and spark plugs, and see what happens.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

thanks...I'll start w/that.

[waldo1324]

Ok, I have oil in my coils and I've been told I need a valve cover gasket and spark plug cylinder seal.
Now my engine studders on start up my CEL blinks on&off then it stops and white smoke comes out the exhaust. Can anyone give me a list of parts that I need please. Or tell me what else is wrong [confused]

you prolly soaked one of your coilpacks with oil. you can has recall coil packs from your audi stealership.

you need:
coil pack recall
valve cover gasket
NGK BKR6E plugs gapped to .030

now you go forth unto thine B6 hence and do with much dilligent haste

[Colombian2nv7]

you prolly soaked one of your coilpacks with oil. you can has recall coil packs from your audi stealership.

you need:
coil pack recall
valve cover gasket
NGK BKR6E plugs gapped to .030

now you go forth unto thine B6 hence and do with much dilligent haste

what you do? go to the dealer and tell them that and thats it?

[A4Turbo04]

^^thank you sir Waldo [up]

[Johnny1.8T]

what you do? go to the dealer and tell them that and thats it?

You go to the dealer and ask if your car has ever had the recall done to your car. The service advisor will run your VIN and let you know if it has been done or not. If it hasnt been done, free coil packs to you. If it HAS been done before, youre on your own for coil packs

[Colombian2nv7]

You go to the dealer and ask if your car has ever had the recall done to your car. The service advisor will run your VIN and let you know if it has been done or not. If it hasnt been done, free coil packs to you. If it HAS been done before, youre on your own for coil packs

what about the valve cover gasket ???

[Colombian2nv7]

You go to the dealer and ask if your car has ever had the recall done to your car. The service advisor will run your VIN and let you know if it has been done or not. If it hasnt been done, free coil packs to you. If it HAS been done before, youre on your own for coil packs

just called them. ntothing for the calve cover gasket but the coil packs were done already. -_-

[iamshayan]

sometimes when I get into boost at WOT then slowly ease off the peddle my car has this little bucking feeling. It's like my peddle isn't smoothly operating my throttle body cause it also feels as though I get more power/torque between 1/4 and 1/3 throttle... It's like I have to slowly press then depress the peddle to get the optimal power...

I get the same thing


Could this be caused by heat soak; where the added heat from the AC condenser and possible higher operating temperature be effecting your IC's ability to cool incoming air.

it was only like 18C outside I just wanted to make sure it worked for the summer and sure enough I noticed this, I dont think my fmic is being heatsoaked at 18C.... at least i hope not, That wouldnt make much sense

[Johnny1.8T]

what about the valve cover gasket ???

We dont have any recalls for the valve cover gasket. At least not that im aware of... Pick up a gasket from wherever you choose and do it yourself or take it to the dealer and have them do it. In your case since the coil pack recall was already done, youre on your own to buy coil packs

[Colombian2nv7]

thanks...mechanic is replacing the coil packs doin the leak down test and a compression test....

[waldo1324]

I get the same thing



it was only like 18C outside I just wanted to make sure it worked for the summer and sure enough I noticed this, I dont think my fmic is being heatsoaked at 18C.... at least i hope not, That wouldnt make much sense

yah me too sorta..still learning the hard routed forge and TIP

and 18C?? i keep forgetting you guys up there are metric

[Charles.waite]

Dumb question: Gawddamn O'Reilly's morons gave me the old style smaller oil filter, and I didn't notice until I already had the old one off and I compared them side by side. Because of that, I inadvertently overfilled the oil tank (that and I forgot the 1.8t has a lower oil capacity than the 2.0t, which I changed last so I kinda forgot). Whats the easiest (cheapest?) way to pull a bit of oil back out? I don't have a vac. pump so thats not in the cards.

Oh and my car doesn't burn oil, so I can't just wait until it burns off, haha. Its only about 1/8" above the max line...

[vhstejskal]

Dumb question: Gawddamn O'Reilly's morons gave me the old style smaller oil filter, and I didn't notice until I already had the old one off and I compared them side by side. Because of that, I inadvertently overfilled the oil tank (that and I forgot the 1.8t has a lower oil capacity than the 2.0t, which I changed last so I kinda forgot). Whats the easiest (cheapest?) way to pull a bit of oil back out? I don't have a vac. pump so thats not in the cards.

Oh and my car doesn't burn oil, so I can't just wait until it burns off, haha. Its only about 1/8" above the max line...


Get some of that silicon tubing used in aquariums and just like using a straw through the dip stick draw small amount of oil back out…
I did this in a rush and worked fine to pull out the excess...

[Charles.waite]

Get some of that silicon tubing used in aquariums and just like using a straw through the dip stick draw small amount of oil back out…
I did this in a rush and worked fine to pull out the excess...

Hmm thats a good idea. I'll double check the level today and make sure its still high, want to give the oil time to work its way around all the voids and the filter before I take any drastic siphoning measures...

[old guy]

Hmm thats a good idea. I'll double check the level today and make sure its still high, want to give the oil time to work its way around all the voids and the filter before I take any drastic siphoning measures...

Just remove the drain plug and hold it in position until you remove ~ a liter or so into a clean oil drain pan and put the plug back in. Check the level and top as necessary. Hell of a lot easier than trying to siphon it out.

[Charles.waite]

Just remove the drain plug and hold it in position until you remove ~ a liter or so into a clean oil drain pan and put the plug back in. Check the level and top as necessary. Hell of a lot easier than trying to siphon it out.

Oh thats even easier. I presume I can leave the oil cap on to make it drain a bit slower. Did this accidentally on my b7 last time. I'm really not sure why oil changes are so difficult for me to do without screwing anything up...

[nazisled]

i'm looking to do a stage 1+ 93 by APR this summer. there's an APR shop relatively close to me, which is why ill go with APR.

i want to make sure i have everything ready for the stage 1+.

order of process i intend to do this:
1. snub mount
2. boost/oil temp gauge
3. 710n DV
4. flash and injectors
5. test pipe
6. apikol SMIC
7. brake upgrade (powerslot rotors and hawk pads from mjmautohaus.com)

rather than starting a new thread and searching my ass off, i figured i throw the question here.

what else do i need to do? are there oil lines i should replace before? i know being chipped brings out problems that already existed

AND..is it worth getting the 2 programs? stock and chipped rather than just chipped program

[Charles.waite]

i'm looking to do a stage 1+ 93 by APR this summer. there's an APR shop relatively close to me, which is why ill go with APR.

i want to make sure i have everything ready for the stage 1+.

order of process i intend to do this:
1. snub mount
2. boost/oil temp gauge
3. 710n DV
4. flash and injectors
5. test pipe
6. apikol SMIC
7. brake upgrade (powerslot rotors and hawk pads from mjmautohaus.com)

rather than starting a new thread and searching my ass off, i figured i throw the question here.

what else do i need to do? are there oil lines i should replace before? i know being chipped brings out problems that already existed

AND..is it worth getting the 2 programs? stock and chipped rather than just chipped program

Wait for the sale in June/July and get a fully loaded chip w/ 4 programs, TBA, code clearing, and security lockout (I think) for $500. Thats what I did.

[Avant_Garde]

whats the gas tank capacity on the 1.8t? Everywhere i look i find different numbers, from 62l to 68l.... Also, what is the reserve on our tanks (amount of fuel left when the needle hits the red and light comes on)

[Colombian2nv7]

guys can the wires that connect to the coilpacks be changed? i had to rewire one of the ends but i see the other connectors burned down and almost done in their life. i would like to change the whole thing. i added a pic to give you guys more of a clear idea. thanks

http://i50.tinypic.com/ev8hgy.jpg

[Johnny1.8T]

^ 034 motorsports has a kit. I remember reading a thread about it not too long ago. Id post the link to it, but its a PITA through tapatalk. Search around on the 034 website though, im sure you can find it. I remember people saying that its worth the money

Edit: google searched it and got the URL to the thread about the kit i mentioned

http://m.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/418987-034-Coilpack-harness-installed.-Great-Product?styleid=12

[Colombian2nv7]

Thanks Johnny!!!

[Johnny1.8T]

No problem, check out my edit in my last post [up]

[Colombian2nv7]

that website is so legit...lol hahaha looking for that cable. thanks alot man! i need that rotors and findout where the stupid antifreeze is leaking out to...=/

[Myst420]

that website is so legit...lol hahaha looking for that cable. thanks alot man! i need that rotors and findout where the stupid antifreeze is leaking out to...=/

Have you checked your coolant flange? Martini just fixed his, so I'm sure he'll have a THOROUGH write up on it soon. But in the meantime you can search, there is a ton of threads it. Just look directly behind the motor from the passenger side and see if there is any coolant on the top of the tranny (pink crusty looking stuff)

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Colombian2nv7]

Have you checked your coolant flange? Martini just fixed his, so I'm sure he'll have a THOROUGH write up on it soon. But in the meantime you can search, there is a ton of threads it. Just look directly behind the motor from the passenger side and see if there is any coolant on the top of the tranny (pink crusty looking stuff)



Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

i think you right..not sure if its on top of the tranny or what the tranny is but it was on top of some stuff..what do you think that is? the coolant flange? i will take a pic tomorrow and show u guys. thanks!!

[Johnny1.8T]

^ i think you quoted the wrong person lmao

Edit: nevermind hahaha

[Charles.waite]

i think you right..not sure if its on top of the tranny or what the tranny is but it was on top of some stuff..what do you think that is? the coolant flange? i will take a pic tomorrow and show u guys. thanks!!

Yep that's coolant flange. It drips down onto the waffle looking metal thing called the transmission bellhousing. Kind of a pink/white crusty algae looking stuff.

[Colombian2nv7]

Have you checked your coolant flange? Martini just fixed his, so I'm sure he'll have a THOROUGH write up on it soon. But in the meantime you can search, there is a ton of threads it. Just look directly behind the motor from the passenger side and see if there is any coolant on the top of the tranny (pink crusty looking stuff)

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

all, here is the pics of the issue

http://i49.tinypic.com/24v49rt.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/qn7i88.jpg
http://i46.tinypic.com/2dsmu1l.jpg

the leak is in the passenger side, the leak is right next to the cat, not sure if the tranny is the one next to it...does the pictures helps? its hard to get in there and get a clear picture.

Thanks guys!!

[Myst420]

all, here is the pics of the issue

http://i49.tinypic.com/24v49rt.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/qn7i88.jpg
http://i46.tinypic.com/2dsmu1l.jpg

the leak is in the passenger side, the leak is right next to the cat, not sure if the tranny is the one next to it...does the pictures helps? its hard to get in there and get a clear picture.

Thanks guys!!

Yep, that's most likely your flange. DIY Here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/189137-DIY-B6-A4-Rear-Coolant-Flange-Change?highlight=coolant+flange+diy) You really should try searching this stuff.

[Colombian2nv7]

Yep, that's most likely your flange. DIY Here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/189137-DIY-B6-A4-Rear-Coolant-Flange-Change?highlight=coolant+flange+diy) You really should try searching this stuff.

I dind't know where leak was untill the mechanic showed me. i was under the impression it was leaking into the head or the turbo at first because i had smoke in the back of the car but we took some oil out and it stopped so the stupid oil change guy put too much.

thanks!! thank you again.

[waldo1324]

i'm looking to do a stage 1+ 93 by APR this summer. there's an APR shop relatively close to me, which is why ill go with APR.

i want to make sure i have everything ready for the stage 1+.

order of process i intend to do this:
1. snub mount
2. boost/oil temp gauge
3. 710n DV
4. flash and injectors
5. test pipe
6. apikol SMIC
7. brake upgrade (powerslot rotors and hawk pads from mjmautohaus.com)

rather than starting a new thread and searching my ass off, i figured i throw the question here.

what else do i need to do? are there oil lines i should replace before? i know being chipped brings out problems that already existed

AND..is it worth getting the 2 programs? stock and chipped rather than just chipped program

Turbo inlet pipe
and if you have the test pipe in, you want stage 2+

and follow charles advice and wait for the sale

[Seerlah]

I dind't know where leak was untill the mechanic showed me. i was under the impression it was leaking into the head or the turbo at first because i had smoke in the back of the car but we took some oil out and it stopped so the stupid oil change guy put too much.

thanks!! thank you again.

The oil guy just places in the amount the his chart specifies for your vehicle. Problem is, it is not always accurate. For example, my car specifies 4.3 quarts. If I place that in, it is too much oil. 4 quarts exact brings my oil level higher than the middle marking on the dip stick.

[Charles.waite]

If they use the smaller filter, not the revised large filter then the oil capacity is even less. Fuck you O'riellys...

[nazisled]

Turbo inlet pipe
and if you have the test pipe in, you want stage 2+

and follow charles advice and wait for the sale

could i do a test pipe before chipped or will it throw a CEL?

[Seerlah]

Chipped or not, you are going to throw a CEL. Either space out the secondary o2 sensor or have it written out of your ECU with your tune. I had a Labree HFC, custom downpipe, and Milltek exhaust before I got my ECU flashed. I just spaced out the rear o2 sensor. My tune didn't even have it written out. My the spacer did what it was supposed to.

[nazisled]

Chipped or not, you are going to throw a CEL. Either space out the secondary o2 sensor or have it written out of your ECU with your tune. I had a Labree HFC, custom downpipe,and Milltek exhaust before I got my ECU flashed. I just spaced out the rear o2 sensor. My tune didn't even have it written out my the spacer did what it was supposed to.
i was finally able to search and saw that RAI does a test pipe with a j-bung that doesn't throw a CEL.

[waldo1324]

could i do a test pipe before chipped or will it throw a CEL?

http://www.stratmosphere.com/product/spacercat/12

you could try that

its what im doing after i get my two year inspection and toss in the test pipe.

[Charles.waite]

i was finally able to search and saw that RAI does a test pipe with a j-bung that doesn't throw a CEL.

It's still hit or miss. Some people have had luck with a spacer other don't. It depends on how well your engine is running and if it's controlling AFRs properly so there's less combustion gasses for the o2 sensors to sniff in the first place.

[Seerlah]

The secondary o2 sensor on the 1.8t only monitors flow. All the spacer does is take the sensor out of the direct path of the exhaust flow, tricking the ECU making it think your cat converter is doing it's job.

[AudiA4_20T]

It's still hit or miss. Some people have had luck with a spacer other don't. It depends on how well your engine is running and if it's controlling AFRs properly so there's less combustion gasses for the o2 sensors to sniff in the first place.

after seeing these things used for 3 years, I'd say the sucess rate is ~95%

[boy412]

I had a spacer made by one of the guys here on the forums (can't remember the details, but its a nice piece). Works like it is supposed to.

42 Draft Designs also makes a spacer (http://store.42draftdesigns.com/O2-Sensor-Spacer_p_306.html):

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/assets/images/cnc/02spacers/o2spacer1.jpg

[Charles.waite]

after seeing these things used for 3 years, I'd say the sucess rate is ~95%

I guess my point is its one of those situations where your engine is running poorly/rich/lean and the AFR is off, the spacer/minicat wont be able to compensate enough for the extra crap in the exhaust stream. I've been considering going the test-pipe + mini-cat route ever since I found out WA doesn't use smog sniffers. Glad to hear you've seen such high success rates, as most people are pretty dubious of them...

[Charles.waite]

Since this thread should NEVER be on the 3rd page...[;)]

So above I mentioned the crack monkeys at O-Reillys gave me the old style mini oil filter, I want to swap in a new, proper sized Mann filter, as I just bought a couple so I don't have to rely on aforementioned monkeys every time. Do I have to drain the oil to do this? Could I potentially just pop the old filter off with a gallon ziplock bag over it and not lose any oil besides whats in the filter? I just don't want a quart to come gushing out and coat my subframe in oil...

Incidentally I have the same question for my B7. HowTF do I manage to suck so badly at oil changes...

[Seerlah]

Your oil sits in the sump/oil pan when the engine is off. Only oil that will come out of the oil cooler housing is the oil that is already in the filter. The same amount will drip out as if it is an ordinary oil change. Prime the new filter before placing in, and be sure to top of your oil level when done.

[SlickFix]

The driver's window on my Avant works, but the "one-touch" feature doesn't work when trying to open it. I have to hold the button down until it's all the way open. The one touch works fine when closing the window, however.

Am I looking at replacing the switch, the regulator or something else?

[Charles.waite]

Your oil sits in the sump/oil pan when the engine is off. Only oil that will come out of the oil cooler housing is the oil that is already in the filter. The same amount will drip out as if it is an ordinary oil change. Prime the new filter before placing in, and be sure to top of your oil level when done.

Thanks! I am actually a little overfilled, so since I've got to drain some anyway, I figured I could just swap in the new filter and probably be about dead on to the max line once it gets into the filter...

[evo_ski]

Your oil sits in the sump/oil pan when the engine is off. Only oil that will come out of the oil cooler housing is the oil that is already in the filter. The same amount will drip out as if it is an ordinary oil change. Prime the new filter before placing in, and be sure to top of your oil level when done.

Dumb question, but what do you mean by priming the filter? I will be doing something similar in a month or so after I put in some auto-rx since they call for ONLY a filter swap after about 2,500 miles. Never done my own oil change, so this will be a bit of a new thing for me.

Thanks!

[Charles.waite]

Dumb question, but what do you mean by priming the filter? I will be doing something similar in a month or so after I put in some auto-rx since they call for ONLY a filter swap after about 2,500 miles. Never done my own oil change, so this will be a bit of a new thing for me.

Thanks!

I think he means just pouring oil in the filter to pre-fill it. keeps the engine from starving for oil while the filter fills up. I didn't do it either time I changed my oil, even though its probably a good idea. Just never thought of it.

[A4OrlandoB6]

Dumb question, but what do you mean by priming the filter? I will be doing something similar in a month or so after I put in some auto-rx since they call for ONLY a filter swap after about 2,500 miles. Never done my own oil change, so this will be a bit of a new thing for me.

Thanks!


add some oil to the filter and rub some oil around the rubber seal on the filter. make sure that same seal didn't come off the old filter and stick to your oil filter housing

[evo_ski]

Awesome, thanks for the quick responses guys!

[iamshayan]

heres a real dumb dumb, any gains to be had from an aeb intake manifold on a amb head?

[Seerlah]

Once the IM becomes a restriction with a turbocharger pushing enough air will you see any gains. Even then, the ports on the small port head will create a bottle neck (transition spacer should be used, to avoid turbulance of the intake flow colliding on the intake port flanges), so it is best to either port those larger or just use an AEB cylinder head.

[SpecialBlend723]

Okay guys...not sure what the heck this is...
I started having this miserable squealing sound from my front end. It starts to occur at about 15-28mph when moving. But as soon as I brake, it goes to a instant high pitch noise and goes completely away. 90% of the time its at that speed cruising...but can happen when rolling from a dead-stop as well.
I thought maybe a wheel bearing...but i donno :( I know its not my brakes, cause theyre still in great shape (70%) or so, and rotors are good. Cleaned the calipers recently too. Had this dead animal sound now for about 3 months.

[Avant_Garde]

for the guys with sat radio, do you ever get a constant ticking sound (like a metronome) from the sat feed? Every channel, and you can even hear it in between channels. Its happened a few times to me but goes away next time im in the car. i tried turning the head unit off and on and it comes back.

[waldo1324]

removed from 2nd page...

so does the USP rear sway noticable going from stock? reason i ask is theres one cheap out there and i dont want to pay for the RS4(

[SlickFix]

I thought maybe a wheel bearing...but i donno Had this dead animal sound now for about 3 months.

My first thought is wheel bearing, too. If it's been going on for 3 months now, it should be much louder now than it was 3 months ago. Does it go away when you turn left or right?

[SpecialBlend723]

My first thought is wheel bearing, too. If it's been going on for 3 months now, it should be much louder now than it was 3 months ago. Does it go away when you turn left or right?

Not really, its been the same sound since 3 month ago - it sometimes won't even occur at all in one day, but then it will for 6 days, etc...
It bugging the hell out of me...I just had all of my control arms replaced, and im getting new tie rod assemblies put in as well next week, so I'm going to have my mechanic look at (I dont f*ck with suspension myself) haha.

[waldo1324]

#602 homies~! aka... has someone gone from stock -> USP - > RS sway?

sheilds up.

[Charles.waite]

#602 homies~! aka... has someone gone from stock -> USP - > RS sway?

sheilds up.

I believe Evo has. I think he went from stock to RS to Hotchkiss S4 sways though. Can't remember for sure.

On a related note, I just found out my non-sport Avant's rear sway is all rusted out where the bushings are. So I'll probably be upgrading my b6 to an rs4 sway and tossing my USP/Sport sway into the Avant. I love part modularity! I'll probably either start a thread about it ( and piss off the elders [;)]) or just tack on my thoughts to one of the many RS4 sway bar threads...

[FoRbAnNa]

I want to add boardcomputer to my car since it didn't have that from the factory. Does anyone know what exactly I need besides a new wiper stalk with the boardcomputer button? Do I need to replace the electronic module for the steering column to another module to be able to use the boardcomputer?

[Ace]

I want to add boardcomputer to my car since it didn't have that from the factory. Does anyone know what exactly I need besides a new wiper stalk with the boardcomputer button? Do I need to replace the electronic module for the steering column to another module to be able to use the boardcomputer?

If i am not mistaking you need to change the stalk and do some coding with Vagcom.
But i was once told that some controller modules with Part N° 8E0953549F or 8E0953549S cannot be used for it.
If you got that, then you need to change the module also.

[Charles.waite]

I want to add boardcomputer to my car since it didn't have that from the factory. Does anyone know what exactly I need besides a new wiper stalk with the boardcomputer button? Do I need to replace the electronic module for the steering column to another module to be able to use the boardcomputer?

Yea you need to change the coding for the central convenience module or something to allow DIS information. DO that first, then install the wiper stalk with DIS buttons, and you're set.

[a4audi4fun]

I want to add boardcomputer to my car since it didn't have that from the factory. Does anyone know what exactly I need besides a new wiper stalk with the boardcomputer button? Do I need to replace the electronic module for the steering column to another module to be able to use the boardcomputer?

FWIW - my B6 has the trip computer and these are the part numbers that show up from my scan

Instrument Cluster = 8E0 920 900 N
Steering Wheel = 8E0 953 549 N

If you have those part numbers, the trip computer is definitely functional.

[waldo1324]

I believe Evo has. I think he went from stock to RS to Hotchkiss S4 sways though. Can't remember for sure.

On a related note, I just found out my non-sport Avant's rear sway is all rusted out where the bushings are. So I'll probably be upgrading my b6 to an rs4 sway and tossing my USP/Sport sway into the Avant. I love part modularity! I'll probably either start a thread about it ( and piss off the elders [;)]) or just tack on my thoughts to one of the many RS4 sway bar threads...

well and good sir

[JustinM]

Quick question...

If I wanted to add 10mm spacers, would that require longer lug bolts?

[old guy]

Quick question...

If I wanted to add 10mm spacers, would that require longer lug bolts?

You would need lug bolts that are 10mm longer to go with the 10mm spacers.

[JustinM]

Haha ok thanks, this truly was a "question I thought was too dumb to ask"

[old guy]

Haha ok thanks, this truly was a "question I thought was too dumb to ask"

Certainly better to ask than to have your wheels falloff [eek]

[Y3SPB6A4]

Would installing H&R springs with stock sport shocks damage the shocks?

[waldo1324]

Would installing H&R springs with stock sport shocks damage the shocks?

i have the ultrasport springs in my garage, soon and ill be doing the same. i think that they shorten the life of the shock.

[Y3SPB6A4]

i have the ultrasport springs in my garage, soon and ill be doing the same. i think that they shorten the life of the shock.



Damn looks like ill have to buy it with new shocks as well. Most likely the h&r/bilistein combo. Thanks for the help!

[jubei4769]

whats better for a dd. I'm thinking elim kit or frankenturbo. I'm not wanting to do a huge rebuild but at least get 300hp and it be reliable.

[Seerlah]

Depends what type of power band you want, and if you are tip or stick.

[jubei4769]

Depends what type of power band you want, and if you are tip or stick.

It's a 5 speed and I want the power and to be smooth all the way across,

[Seerlah]

You don't get what I'm saying. Earlier spool and less power. Or later spool, and more power.

[jubei4769]

You don't get what I'm saying. Earlier spool and less power. Or later spool, and more power.

i want it to spool early but pull hard .

[Charles.waite]

i want it to spool early but pull hard .

Don't we all...[rolleyes]

[Seerlah]

Kind of hard to do that with 1.8L of displacement. I have a GT2871R and the lack of low end torque/hp can get annoying. But once in the power band, it is a different story. It's rolling from a complete stop that can be bothersome. But is is about preference, and some people don't mind at all. Or you can fork up the dough and get an EFR unit. Best of both worlds...fast spool and nice power band.

[Charles.waite]

Kind of hard to do that with 1.8L of displacement. I have a GT2871R and the lack of low end torque/hp can get annoying. But once in the power band, it is a different story. It's rolling from a complete stop that can be bothersome. But is is about preference, and some people don't mind at all. Or you can fork up the dough and get an EFR unit. Best of both worlds...fast spool and nice power band.

If you can actually GET an EFR unit. I'm pretty sure they're backordered for like a year.

Wouldn't a GTRS provide a quicker spool than the 2871R? I would think that is what jubei is looking for. Regardless, a GT series turbo will continue to pull as it nears redline, whereas a stock k03 will fall flat on its face after around 4.5k.

[Seerlah]

There are a couple factors that play a role in spool time.

-wheel size
-manifold design
-manifold volume
-exhaust housing A/R
-turbo exhaust housing inlet port size
-exhaust

Just a few factors of why the GTRS will spool faster than my setup, but I don't see it being more than a 300-400rpm difference with systems running correctly. I think jubei4769 needs to do some more research to figure what he wants to run with. I chose my setup for personal reasons, and he needs to give some thought before committing to whatever route he chooses. Turbo choice is one thing, then tuning and supporting mods is a whole other scenario.

[Rodmar]

With a set up of 18x8 et 32 5x112 wheel with 235/40/18 tires and lowered on eibach/koni set up...what spacers would I need and any fender rolling? on b7 a4...PM me any good answers. Thanks

[jubei4769]

There are a couple factors that play a role in spool time.

-wheel size
-manifold design
-manifold volume
-exhaust housing A/R
-turbo exhaust housing inlet port size
-exhaust

Just a few factors of why the GTRS will spool faster than my setup, but I don't see it being more than a 300-400rpm difference with systems running correctly. I think jubei4769 needs to do some more research to figure what he wants to run with. I chose my setup for personal reasons, and he needs to give some thought before committing to whatever route he chooses. Turbo choice is one thing, then tuning and supporting mods is a whole other scenario.

very true im not jumping into anything big yet just looking at all the options, even then i might leave it stock. might be moving back to hawaii and im not sure what they have out there for tuning support.

[iamshayan]

How do you make your fender liners stay in after you roll the lips on your fenders?
do i need full license vcds to code the abs module because its not working with my "lite" registered copy.

[waldo1324]

what the hell wire do you connect the turn signal led load resitor?

[CHARLES A4]

What's a good price to pay for a boost leak test

[Seerlah]

$0.00

Pay for parts to build your own tester, and do it yourself.

http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/boostleak.html

[CHARLES A4]

I don't have an air compressor

[Johnny1.8T]

^ if worst came to worst you could put together your boost leak tester and use a valve stem and hook it up to a bicycle air pump. Youd have to keep pumping it, but im sure it would work. Maybe easier with two people. Have one guy pump, one guy look around for leaks

... If anyone was able to find something homo about that, no homo!

[my1stturbo]

Is the 5 spd shift knob/boot assembly 1 piece or 2? I want to replace my knob but wqsnt sure if I needed to order another boot to go with it.

[Charles.waite]

^ if worst came to worst you could put together your boost leak tester and use a valve stem and hook it up to a bicycle air pump. Youd have to keep pumping it, but im sure it would work. Maybe easier with two people. Have one guy pump, one guy look around for leaks

... If anyone was able to find something homo about that, no homo!

Haha! Priceless.

But yea bicycle pump. You could probably rent a cheap air compressor somewhere if that sounds too arduous.

[waldo1324]

Is the 5 spd shift knob/boot assembly 1 piece or 2? I want to replace my knob but wqsnt sure if I needed to order another boot to go with it.

it pops off as 1 peice. i forgets exactly how. i just sawed off 2 inches, tapped it and threaded an aftermarket knob on there

[waldo1324]

im trying to get a spring swap together this weekend:
i have the USP springs to replace the 4x4 springs.

problem is: which ones are the front ones? does it matter? and which end is up? they have color coding dots on them but i dont knows what the hells they mean....

[my1stturbo]

it pops off as 1 peice. i forgets exactly how. i just sawed off 2 inches, tapped it and threaded an aftermarket knob on there

Thanks. I think I amood with popping outhe old one, I as curious if the boot is attached to the knob itself though. Basically will I be able to use the OEM boot with an aftermarketw knob.

[waldo1324]

Thanks. I think I amood with popping outhe old one, I as curious if the boot is attached to the knob itself though. Basically will I be able to use the OEM boot with an aftermarketw knob.

yah but you gotta rig it up there with high strength tape under the knob.

[swededA4]

Is there a difference in the intake manifold sizes between B6 motors?

What is the benefit in running a bigger throttle body?

[jubei4769]

Is there a difference in the intake manifold sizes between B6 motors?

What is the benefit in running a bigger throttle body?

Not sure on the 1st question. But more airflow is always better, but you gotta make sure everything else flows as well

[swededA4]

Not sure on the 1st question. But more airflow is always better, but you gotta make sure everything else flows as well

I figured the more air flow. With fmic and a 3" exhaust I was mainly curious if it would be beneficial.

As for the intake manifolds I was told one of the years was actually had a bigger bore.

[audi_nightrider]

For those with FT4 turbos......

one of the turbo threads is loose T_T.....one of the bolts that bolts down the turbo w/ exhaust manifold cant be tighten properly because of the loose thread.
I know stock bolts is (10x50mm as listed in ECStuning) but we all know that the exhaust manifold that comes with the kit is wider/taller than stock ones.

I don't think I can do anything but to buy a longer bolt since going a size bigger is not a solution since the bolts provided by Doug(frankenturbo) can barely go through the exh manifold. I already emailed him and ask him the exact specs of the bolts provided but no luck =/.

Also, I have been searching for a "thread repair kit" but I have yet to find one even on ebay lol. Please helpppp

TIA

[Charles.waite]

I figured the more air flow. With fmic and a 3" exhaust I was mainly curious if it would be beneficial.

As for the intake manifolds I was told one of the years was actually had a bigger bore.

On a basically stock engine a larger bore will not make an ounce of difference and you may even lose some low end torque.

The AEB head from the b5 is the large port head you're thinking of.

[waldo1324]

you may even lose some low end torque.



such thinking makes me aprehensive about my test pipe going in. with the backpressure argument and all that jazz

[Charles.waite]

such thinking makes me aprehensive about my test pipe going in. with the backpressure argument and all that jazz

Nah. The intake side is a bit sensitive to the flow vs velocity thing, but the exhaust side is far less picky about that.

I believe Audi changed to the small bore head/manifold from the b5->6 in order to improve low end grunt a tad since the B6 was so much heavier it needed a boost down low so it would drive like a slightly less massive pig.

[Seerlah]

For those with FT4 turbos......

one of the turbo threads is loose T_T.....one of the bolts that bolts down the turbo w/ exhaust manifold cant be tighten properly because of the loose thread.
I know stock bolts is (10x50mm as listed in ECStuning) but we all know that the exhaust manifold that comes with the kit is wider/taller than stock ones.

I don't think I can do anything but to buy a longer bolt since going a size bigger is not a solution since the bolts provided by Doug(frankenturbo) can barely go through the exh manifold. I already emailed him and ask him the exact specs of the bolts provided but no luck =/.

Also, I have been searching for a "thread repair kit" but I have yet to find one even on ebay lol. Please helpppp

TIA

You would need to redrill/tap it one size larger (ie m11x1.5 or m12x1.5). Another thing you can do is try ARP bolts. The design of the bolt threads are different, and may actually hold for you.

Stock turbo to manifold bolt size is m10x1.5x50. The bolt size for high flow manifolds are 20mm longer (m10x1.5x70). I would suggest you try ARP bolts in maybe 60 (no washer), 65mm (use as many washers as needed, if any), or 70mm (use as many washers as needed, if any) length. On my T3 flange, I currently have 25mm long ARP bolts with 2 ARP washers on each bolt. But I can fit a regular 1" (roughly 25mm) bolt with no problem. Just an example on how hard it can be to torque them down. They don't torque so easy. You will have to He-Man that sh*t. But I was told torque them to 45ft/lb.

60mm ARP bolts: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Fasteners-Hardware/Section/Bolts/Brand/ARP/Part-Type/Bolts/Thread-Size/10mm-x-1-5/Underhead-Length-mm/60-00mm/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

65mm ARP bolts: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Fasteners-Hardware/Section/Bolts/Brand/ARP/Part-Type/Bolts/Thread-Size/10mm-x-1-5/Underhead-Length-mm/65-00mm/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

70mm ARP bolts: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Fasteners-Hardware/Section/Bolts/Brand/ARP/Part-Type/Bolts/Thread-Size/10mm-x-1-5/Underhead-Length-mm/70-00mm/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

[waldo1324]

Nah. The intake side is a bit sensitive to the flow vs velocity thing, but the exhaust side is far less picky about that.

I believe Audi changed to the small bore head/manifold from the b5->6 in order to improve low end grunt a tad since the B6 was so much heavier it needed a boost down low so it would drive like a slightly less massive pig.

sweet - cant wait then

[CHARLES A4]

I keep getting a 01119 code and its driving me crazy when I search it tells me to check my tcm but I don't know how to do that

[waldo1324]

I keep getting a 01119 code and its driving me crazy when I search it tells me to check my tcm but I don't know how to do that

http://www.audizine.com/search/index.php?s=&cof=FORID%3A10&ie=ISO-8859-1&securitytoken=1235689648-86b44b13b2191460e62330ab2893c58737839544&do=process&searchthreadid=&cx=partner-pub-7993519228154114%3A8bu6v2-7eoi&q=tcm&searchWhere=partner-pub-7993519228154114%3A8bu6v2-7eoi

[CHARLES A4]

That doesn't help me

[Seerlah]

You need Vag Com. But see if your TCU is dry.

[iamshayan]

im trying to get a spring swap together this weekend:
i have the USP springs to replace the 4x4 springs.

problem is: which ones are the front ones? does it matter? and which end is up? they have color coding dots on them but i dont knows what the hells they mean....
just look at how the ones you are taking off are and match them up! come on... lol!

ps. , 1000'th post.

[waldo1324]

That doesn't help me

my failure is complete

[waldo1324]

just look at how the ones you are taking off are and match them up! come on... lol!

ps. , 1000'th post.
you know i dont like to do anything unless i whine and mull it over for a few months

[iamshayan]

you know i dont like to do anything unless i whine and mull it over for a few months

lolol i doo

[Johnny1.8T]

so im looking at big turbo set ups and tunes and stuff and i see some people running mafless and see some people running with a maf. i cant find anybody saying WHY they are going mafless though. also, i cant seem to find tunes meant to run with no maf... or am i blind?

so my questions are:

why do people choose to run mafless?

what companies out there have an actual mafless tune?

[Seerlah]

I take it you have not searched much? Even if you talked to a tuner, they would tell you why. It basically all boils down to preference. Running a setup with a MAF will grant you better out of boost driveability, but people say that they have not noticed a difference. Running a setup with a MAF should grant you better fuel economy, but it will only be like 2-3mpg more. With a MAF, you get the luxury of having better intake readings, as this will allow the ECU to read both lambda from the primary o2 sensor and g/s from the MAF. This makes the amount of fuel the ECU has the injectors spray more accurate. Not having a MAF just makes things much much easier. Just slap a filter on the compressor inlet (some don't even bother with this and place on a mesh screen, but mostly due to fitment issues) and call it a day. With a MAF setup, you would ideally want to run a recirculation valve. With a MAFless setup, you ideally want to use a single piston blow off valve.

As for a company that has an actual MAFless tune, Eurodyne is what many choose to use. They offer both MAF and MAFless tunes. I currently have a MAFless Eurodyne 630cc OTS tune, and may switch to a MAF tune later on. Reason I went with MAFless from the start...simplicity.

[Johnny1.8T]

I take it you have not searched much? Even if you talked to a tuner, they would tell you why. It basically all boils down to preference. Running a setup with a MAF will grant you better out of boost driveability, but people say that they have not noticed a difference. Running a setup with a MAF should grant you better fuel economy, but it will only be like 2-3mpg more. With a MAF, you get the luxury of having better intake readings, as this will allow the ECU to read both lambda from the primary o2 sensor and g/s from the MAF. This makes the amount of fuel the ECU has the injectors spray more accurate. Not having a MAF just makes things much much easier. Just slap a filter on the compressor inlet (some don't even bother with this and place on a mesh screen, but mostly due to fitment issues) and call it a day. With a MAF setup, you would ideally want to run a recirculation valve. With a MAFless setup, you ideally want to use a single piston blow off valve.

As for a company that has an actual MAFless tune, Eurodyne is what many choose to use. They offer both MAF and MAFless tunes. I currently have a MAFless Eurodyne 630cc OTS tune, and may switch to a MAF tune later on. Reason I went with MAFless from the start...simplicity.

I really appreciate the info, thank you! I have searched, but i think just about anyone using tapatalk can agree that the search function is useless. I figured id post my "question i thought i was too dumb to ask" here before going around to some tuners and getting that short, subtle response that makes you feel like you were an annoyance. (not ALL of them are like that, but some)

[Zaknull]

ok so my question is, are new injectors really worth the green? What kind of enhancements will i notice? besides the tt225 is there any other recomenations?

[Seerlah]

Use injectors that your tune calls for. TT225 injectors are 380cc/36lbs injectors. You can use a different injector if you choose, but they must be high impedance. Along with that, spray pattern is a rather crucial part. If you can find used tt 225 injectors, go that route. Nothing wrong with buying used. I would research it more, but you can also use the Bosch injectors linked below (research it first, to either confirm or debunk my claim). But you would need fuel rail spacers if running these.

http://cbrfan.com/parts/?view=item&id=260892122281&name=Set+of+4+BRAND+NEW+Genuine+Bosch+380cc+EV14+V olkswagen+2+0L+Fuel+Injectors

http://boschdealer.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=27

[Zaknull]

Use injectors that your tune calls for. TT225 injectors are 380cc/36lbs injectors. You can use a different injector if you choose, but they must be high impedance. Along with that, spray pattern is a rather crucial part. If you can find used tt 225 injectors, go that route. Nothing wrong with buying used. I would research it more, but you can also use the Bosch injectors linked below (research it first, to either confirm or debunk my claim). But you would need fuel rail spacers if running these.

http://cbrfan.com/parts/?view=item&id=260892122281&name=Set+of+4+BRAND+NEW+Genuine+Bosch+380cc+EV14+V olkswagen+2+0L+Fuel+Injectors

http://boschdealer.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=27

I am trying to stick APR products i really like their products. however apr injectors are $500. and i would get my 1+ upgrade for free. does that sound about right? that price seems high to me but i have no clue about these.

[Seerlah]

APR products are always high priced.

Does it seem right? Yep.
Could you go a different route for cheaper and probably achieve more gains? Yep.

[Zaknull]

APR products are always high priced.

Does it seem right? Yep.
Could you go a different route for cheaper and probably achieve more gains? Yep.

ok thanks. one more question. What would be an average price to spend on the set?
thanks for your help.

[Seerlah]

Set of what? APR injectors? I doubt you will be able to find a used set. TT 225 injectors are hard enough. If you are dead set on getting APR injectors, you may want to contact a vendor on here to see if you can get some type of discount. Waterfest is coming up also, so I'm sure you can get a hefty discount during that time.

[Zaknull]

Set of what? APR injectors? I doubt you will be able to find a used set. TT 225 injectors are hard enough. If you are dead set on getting APR injectors, you may want to contact a vendor on here to see if you can get some type of discount. Waterfest is coming up also, so I'm sure you can get a hefty discount during that time.

I just meant what is a good price to pay for injectors, any brand.

[Seerlah]

Different brands have different prices. It varies. For example, I picked up 4 Siemen 630cc injectors flow matched for $150 shipped. They cost roughly $50 per unit brand new, and don't come flow matched.

[waldo1324]

Lazathread come forth!!

who is running non hubcentric spacers?

i always hear that you have to have the wheel resting on the hub?

[MrTurrtle]

sorry noob to turbos, few questions about the frankenturbo. would i do this (pictureed below)if i wasn't running the n75? and what is the purpose of not running the n75? and the wastegate is set to 8 psi, would i have to adjust that at all, currently running on stock tune and waiting on the motoza tune?
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee485/bradderz_1988/8cdecd87.jpg

[swededA4]

would Audi tt front seats fit?

[Seerlah]

^Any seat can fit, as long as you have a bracket for it.


sorry noob to turbos, few questions about the frankenturbo. would i do this (pictureed below)if i wasn't running the n75? and what is the purpose of not running the n75? and the wastegate is set to 8 psi, would i have to adjust that at all, currently running on stock tune and waiting on the motoza tune?
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee485/bradderz_1988/8cdecd87.jpg

You would ideally want to run some type of boost controller in between that line. The n75 is the stock boost controller. You can not adjust your boost without one. The way you have it would simply have you run off the WG spring. Only way to adjust it the way you have it is to change springs in that WG. Get a mbc.

[PapatoeSC]

this is really a stupid question! but i am new to the a4 i have had other cars with sunroof and had no problems

how can i make my sunroof open this way?
http://imgc.classistatic.com/cps/blnc/120405/863r1/12819hl_20.jpeg

i had tried all the options in my switch this is what my switch looks like

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/x2nervisx/AudiA4B6SunroofPanel.jpg

is that option only available in some a4 or whats the deal?

[Johnny1.8T]

this is really a stupid question! but i am new to the a4 i have had other cars with sunroof and had no problems

how can i make my sunroof open this way?
http://imgc.classistatic.com/cps/blnc/120405/863r1/12819hl_20.jpeg

i had tried all the options in my switch this is what my switch looks like

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/x2nervisx/AudiA4B6SunroofPanel.jpg

is that option only available in some a4 or whats the deal?

Look at the part of the switch that you can physically turn in order to open the sunroof. See the white filled in circle on it? With your sunroof closed, push up on that white circle and it will vent up like you want. When you want to close it, lightly pull down on the switch

[PapatoeSC]

Thank you!!!! I really feel dumb hahahahah

[Johnny1.8T]

Thank you!!!! I really feel dumb hahahahah


well, at least you can feel dumb in a thread where everyone else feels dumb too! hahaha just kidding [up]


it took me a little while to figure it out too when i first got my car. i just had to mess around with it until i got it to open lmao

[theboss]

well, at least you can feel dumb in a thread where everyone else feels dumb too! hahaha just kidding [up]


it took me a little while to figure it out too when i first got my car. i just had to mess around with it until i got it to open lmao

no kidding i've had my car for almost a year and didnt know it could do that... i've seen other a4's around with the moonroof setting but didn't think anything of it! I literally just ran outside and tried it and feel ULTRA DUMB [up] i guess you learn something new everyday haha

[MrTurrtle]

You would ideally want to run some type of boost controller in between that line. The n75 is the stock boost controller. You can not adjust your boost without one. The way you have it would simply have you run off the WG spring. Only way to adjust it the way you have it is to change springs in that WG. Get a mbc.

thats a picture i found on some site. the way i have, i put the old hose that was on the old turbo(with the n75 on there) on the frankenturbo. would the tune program the n75 to boost more? TIA


EDIT: also if the waste gate is set to 8 psi then i would still need to get a mbc anyway to boost over 8psi without adjusting waste gate correct?

[Seerlah]

Without some type of boost controller to keep the WG closed, it will open at whatever psi/bar spring is in there. For example, I have my wastegate with a 14psi spring. If I did not have a boost controller on it (mbc/ebc/n75), I would be limited to that boost. You don't need to get an mbc if you are running the stock n75. The n75 allows the turbo to boost whatever the tune is written for, as that is the stock boost controller. But if you have absolutely no type of boost controller on your vehicle, you will be limited to wastegate pressure.

[Bigdog7373]

Couple questions:
1. My sunroof doesnt open at all in any direction..
2. What should a fuel filter for a 2002 1.8t fwd 5sp look like? Theres so many options!
3. Whats stock boost for a b6 1.8t?

[PapatoeSC]

one more dumb question
is it normal with mi headlights?

here is the reference:
http://i45.tinypic.com/euox02.jpg

Switch Position: Normal
Behavior: Headlights allways

Switch Position: Second
Behavior: fog lights and corner lights

Switch Position: Second Pulled once
Behavior: fog lights on and then the headlights fliker

Switch Position: Second Pulled twice
Behavior: fog lights and corner lights

Switch Position: third
Behavior: Fog and headlights

Switch Position: third pulled once
Behavior: Fog and headlights

Switch Position: third pulled twice
Behavior: Fog and headlights

is this normal i dont get it its the middle of the day and my stupid lights are on!
and i see at least 2 b6 a day and they never have their lights on!
i have had the car for 3 days and i took the light switch out to see it the it look like they played with the cables and nothing!

[Bigdog7373]

You're switch is fucked. Get a new one.

[NuVega]

Look at the part of the switch that you can physically turn in order to open the sunroof. See the white filled in circle on it? With your sunroof closed, push up on that white circle and it will vent up like you want. When you want to close it, lightly pull down on the switch

Just wanted to add that you can just push the sunroof dial once and it'll open, same for closing, I had my car for two years always holding the dial down or holding while pressing up to open/close, while a simple tap up or tap down will do the job.

[akira112]

For those that did the Stock upper and USP lower DIY.

Do the new USP middle and fog grills snap in like stock? Or do they need to be zip tied?

Thanks

[waldo1324]

Couple questions:
1. My sunroof doesnt open at all in any direction..
2. What should a fuel filter for a 2002 1.8t fwd 5sp look like? Theres so many options!
3. Whats stock boost for a b6 1.8t?

search sunroof fix- youll have to take apart your switch

you probably have a returnless fuel system with the pressure regulator. its the expensive one. i hsve the same year B6 as you but the quattro

stock boost is 10~11 psi

[jubei4769]

A4 or S4? im not sure on upgrading to BT for the A4 or just trading it in towards an S4.

[Charles.waite]

For those that did the Stock upper and USP lower DIY.

Do the new USP middle and fog grills snap in like stock? Or do they need to be zip tied?

Thanks

USP fog grills should snap right in to a USP lower

[GeorgiaNate]

I searched but couldn't find an answer. I have the Panzer skid plate and I was wondering if there are any fitment issues if I want to do the USP lower mod.

[A4Turbo04]

does $700 seem right for a thermostat and thermostat housing job? parts & labor included...

[Casius]

does $700 seem right for a thermostat and thermostat housing job? parts & labor included...

Having just pulled my motor and seeing what it looks like to get at the thermostat I'd say that's not too much of a rip off. It's kind of a pita to get at and at labor rates of say $70 - $100/ hour I'd say that's fair. It requires a whole system drain/refill/bleed etc as well so ya, I'd have guessed something like that

[Casius]

A4 or S4? im not sure on upgrading to BT for the A4 or just trading it in towards an S4.

No replacement for displacement... Personally I don't like huge turbo little motor, you lose all the low end torque which is what's fun to drive day to day. Get the V8, then save some cash for some nice piggie pipes, cats, catback and then throw a JHM tune on there. Or you could just go balls to the wall and supercharge it.

[A4Turbo04]

Having just pulled my motor and seeing what it looks like to get at the thermostat I'd say that's not too much of a rip off. It's kind of a pita to get at and at labor rates of say $70 - $100/ hour I'd say that's fair. It requires a whole system drain/refill/bleed etc as well so ya, I'd have guessed something like that

thanks for the quick response...and I feel little better now [up]

[Casius]

thanks for the quick response...and I feel little better now [up]

You could probably save a lot of money by doing it yourself though, the parts aren't that much

[A4Turbo04]

^ yea I know, but I have no tools and no place to do this >.<

[Zaknull]

ok so i just installed my apr carbnio intake and took it out after the install to make sure everything was running properly and i have two questions.

1) the car has a much lower pitch when accelerating
2) it smells like something is burning (probably the new heat shield, it smells like when you turn your heat on for the first time in the winter)

im sure they are normal but i just want to make sure since im leaving for Watkins glen on saturday and would be pissed if something went wrong 6 hrs from home.

[mjt20mik]

Question:

What is the difference between changing your gearbox oil and changing your automatic tranny fluid. When shifting, my gears are slipping so I think it is time for a flush and change.

[A4.1.8turboo]

one more dumb question
is it normal with mi headlights?

here is the reference:
http://i45.tinypic.com/euox02.jpg



Switch Position: Normal
Behavior: Headlights allways

Switch Position: Second
Behavior: fog lights and corner lights

Switch Position: Second Pulled once
Behavior: fog lights on and then the headlights fliker

Switch Position: Second Pulled twice
Behavior: fog lights and corner lights

Switch Position: third
Behavior: Fog and headlights

Switch Position: third pulled once
Behavior: Fog and headlights

Switch Position: third pulled twice
Behavior: Fog and headlights

is this normal i dont get it its the middle of the day and my stupid lights are on!
and i see at least 2 b6 a day and they never have their lights on!
i have had the car for 3 days and i took the light switch out to see it the it look like they played with the cables and nothing!

Mine is exactly the same. lol idk I got use to it now. after 2 years. [:D]

[Seerlah]

ok so i just installed my apr carbnio intake and took it out after the install to make sure everything was running properly and i have two questions.

1) the car has a much lower pitch when accelerating
2) it smells like something is burning (probably the new heat shield, it smells like when you turn your heat on for the first time in the winter)

im sure they are normal but i just want to make sure since im leaving for Watkins glen on saturday and would be pissed if something went wrong 6 hrs from home.

Drive a little longer and see if the smell goes away.


Question:

What is the difference between changing your gearbox oil and changing your automatic tranny fluid. When shifting, my gears are slipping so I think it is time for a flush and change.

Just different ways of saying the same thing (changing transmission fluid). But the gear box aka transmission uses GL4 75w90 gear oil, while the auto tranny uses actual ATF (automatic transmission fluid).

[nazisled]

A4 or S4? im not sure on upgrading to BT for the A4 or just trading it in towards an S4.
v8. no question. it's my next purchase. regret buying a4 and not saving for s4.

[PapatoeSC]

dam!
how is the normal way the switch should work?

[CHARLES A4]

I wanna buy a new front o2 sensor but i don't know which one to buy... bosch 17351? Or 17090?

[PashaS4]

Ok so I have a B6 S4 can I just put springs on her to drop her 1inch or do I need a whole coilover system?
I know I know it's an S4...... but I can get a faster response from you guys than the S4 guys, thanks [up]

[CHARLES A4]

Yes u can put springs on stock shocks but it wouldn't last as long as something that's designed for it

[Charles.waite]

I wanna buy a new front o2 sensor but i don't know which one to buy... bosch 17351? Or 17090?

Where are you getting p/n17090 from? From what I can tell 17351 should be correct.

Straight from Bosch: http://www.boschautoparts.com/m/Pages/VehiclePartFinderResults.aspx?MAKE=Audi&MODEL=A4%20Quattro&YEAR=2004&CAT=Oxygen%20Sensors&ENGINE=1.8L%201781cc%20L4

[Seerlah]

Both will work. Buy the cheaper one.

[waldo1324]

does $700 seem right for a thermostat and thermostat housing job? parts & labor included...

ill do it for 699

[iamshayan]

does $700 seem right for a thermostat and thermostat housing job? parts &amp; labor included...

lol I don't know how the guys can justify spending 700 on this its 30$ for the part and 25$ for coolnt and 10$ for hose clamps. I guess its 635 for labor? crazy.... I could probably do it in an hour....

Sent from my SGH-I727R using Tapatalk 2

[PashaS4]

http://www.europaparts.com/tail-light-bulb-n0177322.html

Is this a reverse light bulb or just for the red tail lights bulb?

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Probably a reverse light bulb. Most tail light bulbs are dual filament. One filament is used for the running light both are used for brake lights and turn signals

Jason

[Charles.waite]

lol I don't know how the guys can justify spending 700 on this its 30$ for the part and 25$ for coolnt and 10$ for hose clamps. I guess its 635 for labor? crazy.... I could probably do it in an hour....

Sent from my SGH-I727R using Tapatalk 2

Its actually a $90 part, but yea I know what you mean. Its not necessarily easy for people who don't have the tools or the expertise/confidence to start tearing into their engine.

$700 is a bit pricey for that (dealer I presume?) but you could do it yourself for under $120 easy.

[Seerlah]

I offered to do it for him for way less than $700. But he needed it done asap and car was already at the mechanic.

[Zaknull]

ok i have two questions
one what is this part called?
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s454/zaknull/Mobile%20Uploads/Resampled_2012-07-02_17-17-20_109.jpg

and two does anyone know of a diy to take this out i want to refinish the trim and the buttons however i need to do every door i would assume they are all the same basic concept
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s454/zaknull/Mobile%20Uploads/Resampled_2012-07-02_17-16-50_968.jpg

[Seerlah]

Never took that trim off, so can't help you there. But the first pic is your intake manifold.

[iamshayan]

and two does anyone know of a diy to take this out i want to refinish the trim and the buttons however i need to do every door i would assume they are all the same basic concept
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s454/zaknull/Mobile%20Uploads/Resampled_2012-07-02_17-16-50_968.jpg

you have to pop off the door, Instructions : 1 screw at the very bottom, 2 underneath the grab handle(pop that off too) pictured top right
then pull the trim piece off the door prying from the front of the car and remove a couple screws in there. If i recall correctly they are all phillips.
then pull out and up. once the door is seperated you will haveto remove the door latch hook and a wire from the speaker and or window regulator.
then there will be a bunch of torx bolts holding the armrest piece in.

[Zaknull]

you have to pop off the door, Instructions : 1 screw at the very bottom, 2 underneath the grab handle(pop that off too) pictured top right
then pull the trim piece off the door prying from the front of the car and remove a couple screws in there. If i recall correctly they are all phillips.
then pull out and up. once the door is seperated you will haveto remove the door latch hook and a wire from the speaker and or window regulator.
then there will be a bunch of torx bolts holding the armrest piece in.

thank you

[vhstejskal]

ok i have two questions
one what is this part called?
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s454/zaknull/Mobile%20Uploads/Resampled_2012-07-02_17-17-20_109.jpg

and two does anyone know of a diy to take this out i want to refinish the trim and the buttons however i need to do every door i would assume they are all the same basic concept
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s454/zaknull/Mobile%20Uploads/Resampled_2012-07-02_17-16-50_968.jpg

Simple DIY off A4mods.com Clicky Click (http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/windowswitches.html&category=5)

[CHARLES A4]

Where are you getting p/n17090 from? From what I can tell 17351 should be correct.

Straight from Bosch: http://www.boschautoparts.com/m/Pages/VehiclePartFinderResults.aspx?MAKE=Audi&MODEL=A4%20Quattro&YEAR=2004&CAT=Oxygen%20Sensors&ENGINE=1.8L%201781cc%20L4

AutoZone and an old post from old guy

[A4Turbo04]

I offered to do it for him for way less than $700. But he needed it done asap and car was already at the mechanic.

hey bro, it turned out that it wasnt the thermostat that was bad it was the water pump and my HG ended up cracking. He said it was my fault and I dont think it was...but anyways I need a new one any suggestions?
oh and I ended up only paying him $400

[Seerlah]

Was the HG cracked before you brought it into the shop? And how do you know it is, besides your mechanic saying it was?

Do a compression test

[A4Turbo04]

Was the HG cracked before you brought it into the shop? And how do you know it is, besides your mechanic saying it was?

Do a compression test

I dont think it was because I was able to drive it to his shop w/no problems just the overheating..so he replaced the thermostat and took it for a test drive (idk why) and he calls me to tell me the bad news. So I took it to another shop and they took the head to see is they can fix it, it turns out its cracked..but they told me they did a compression test and it was all fine. I dont get it =/

[Seerlah]

So the head is already off the vehicle? Just pick up a used head and have them complete the job.

[A4Turbo04]

So the head is already off the vehicle? Just pick up a used head and have them complete the job.

yea it is... I guess my question is, where can I find one that's not too expensive? and what do they go for?

[Seerlah]

Depends where you buy it from. I would first try the classified section on fourtitude, then fleebay (ebay). Working AEB heads go from anywhere from $250-400. Figure the small port head to be less than that. I would also look into what cylinder heads would be compatible, so you won't be limited to just searching for an AMB cylinder head. For example, for the Audi A4 platform the AMB and AWM are direct swaps. And you can use the AEB head with intake manifold transition spacer if wanting to use your stock IM. Or just place on an AEB IM.

[A4Turbo04]

Depends where you buy it from. I would first try the classified section on fourtitude, then fleebay (ebay). Working AEB heads go from anywhere from $250-400. Figure the small port head to be less than that. I would also look into what cylinder heads would be compatible, so you won't be limited to just searching for an AMB cylinder head. For example, for the Audi A4 platform the AMB and AWM are direct swaps. And you can use the AEB head with intake manifold transition spacer if wanting to use your stock IM. Or just place on an AEB IM.

sorry to keep bothering you bro, but I'm a noob when it comes to stuff like this. Do I search for "engine head", "HG"? I've been trying to find it online but nothing comes up [confused]

[mjt20mik]

I own a 2003 1.8t A4 with CVT. My car seems to jerk quite a bit when i'm slowing down (from 40km - 0). However, it only seems to happen after I am driving for a while. Any idea what it could be?

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

I own a 2003 1.8t A4 with CVT. My car seems to jerk quite a bit when i'm slowing down (from 40km - 0). However, it only seems to happen after I am driving for a while. Any idea what it could be?

Low fluid level? Worn motor/transmission mounts? I'd start with those first.

Jason

[Seerlah]

sorry to keep bothering you bro, but I'm a noob when it comes to stuff like this. Do I search for "engine head", "HG"? I've been trying to find it online but nothing comes up [confused]

You will need a head gasket kit (should include every gasket you will need, including intake manifold, exhaust manifold, valve cover gasket, and head gasket) to have the new cylinder head installed, the bottom flange of the cylinder head will need to be machined flat, flange on short block will need to be cleaned (surfaced), and you will need new head bolts. I would also take this opportunity to replace your entire timing belt kit while you are at it.

Here is where you should look on fourtitude: http://forums.fourtitude.com/forumdisplay.php?530-A4-(B6)-Parts

Also look in the B5 A4 section. You can use a cylinder head from a 2000 (ATW engine code) or 2001 (AWM engine code) for a direct swap. But not sure if the ATW came with a VVT CCT, so you would want to reuse your old one if necessary: http://forums.fourtitude.com/forumdisplay.php?529-A4-S4-and-RS4-(B5)-Parts

Those are the ones just from the Audi platform that would be a direct swap (not fluent on the TT, but I am sure you can use their cylinder head with no issue). You should find out which ones from a VW would be a direct swap also (there will be many of them), to make the search more easier. For example, you can use the cylinder head from a B5 Passat engine code AWM. Find someone parting their cylinder head (not engine head) and see how much they want for it. Don't pay more than $250 before shipping for a small port cylinder head. And the head must be in full working order with no bent valves. Other things like having the CCT still attached is a plus.

[A4Turbo04]

^ thanks bro...I'm looking as we speak

[Wild_Desimunda]

So I believe its time I asked my questions, I looked everywhere but seems to be no explanation for some of these questions....other are just plain ol- dumb

I am new to my 03-1.8TQMT completely stock, with no sunroof

my first question:

1) is it possible to put in a sunroof aftermarket or dealer installed ?

2)...Long story short... My AC stopped working ( econ light stayed on permanently).....had it recharged...then started working..but when it started working...the computer ( trip count) reset itself....does anyone know what happened ?... since then I havent touched my Econ Button..simply just use the off and auto buttons.

3) where would I be able to get the Quattro sign for the front grill...mine fell off and now its just the plastic piece there that it was attached too

4) last question sorry for rambling..... I have stock 205/65/R15 on stock non sport suspension....does anyone know how big I would be able to go or what would be the best size up

Thank and I appreciate all the help

[Johnny1.8T]

So ive had an APR turbo inlet pipe sitting in my garage for a while now and now that ive got a unitronics stage 2 flash id like to install it. Ive got a 2005 1.8T Quattro so the TIP has all the extra ports in it and what not. My question is, what extra parts do i need in order to make it work in my car? I remember a while ago someone was talking about reducers and T fittings and stuff, but i cant find it now (on tapatalk). Again, whats the parts list of what id need in order to install this thing? Thanks!


I never installed it because everyone said it was a pain in the ass.... And that it is.

[waldo1324]

So ive had an APR turbo inlet pipe sitting in my garage for a while now and now that ive got a unitronics stage 2 flash id like to install it. Ive got a 2005 1.8T Quattro so the TIP has all the extra ports in it and what not. My question is, what extra parts do i need in order to make it work in my car? I remember a while ago someone was talking about reducers and T fittings and stuff, but i cant find it now (on tapatalk). Again, whats the parts list of what id need in order to install this thing? Thanks!

I never installed it because everyone said it was a pain in the ass.... And that it is.



its easy as nuts.... with the front of the car off. i had to use copper piping to give it something to crimp to. jut make sure you make them so they dont fall in your TIP and vaporize your inlet turbine.

[Johnny1.8T]

its easy as nuts.... with the front of the car off. i had to use copper piping to give it something to crimp to. jut make sure you make them so they dont fall in your TIP and vaporize your inlet turbine.

But like, when i tried installing it a while ago when i was completely stock i couldnt get the big evap tube (the metal one) into the TIP. Hmmmmmm

[DownhillA4]

What size oxygen sensor tool do our B6 A4's require to pull them out? Thanks

[waldo1324]

But like, when i tried installing it a while ago when i was completely stock i couldnt get the big evap tube (the metal one) into the TIP. Hmmmmmm

same here- what year are you? if by EVAP tube, you mean the metal piping, then yes you are going to see size differnce. problem is the pancake valve is located in different spots between 02 03 and above. PV is a different size diameter than the piping

[Charles.waite]

What size oxygen sensor tool do our B6 A4's require to pull them out? Thanks

3/4" i believe. They're standard size. This will work: http://www.europaparts.com/o2-sensor-wrench-88750a-sp-tools.html

Youhave to get this offset crows foot as the one that looks like a traditional socket won't work and every if it did its nit as easy to use.

Don't quote me on the size, but they use standard sized Bosch sensors so ask at an auto parts store they should point you to the one that fits 99% of cars which surprisingly audis fit into for oxygen sensors.

[Johnny1.8T]

same here- what year are you? if by EVAP tube, you mean the metal piping, then yes you are going to see size differnce. problem is the pancake valve is located in different spots between 02 03 and above. PV is a different size diameter than the piping

Im a 2005 and yes i do mean the metal tube. My problem is getting the metal tube to fit which is where ive heard of people kind of macgyvering something up. Id just like to know what people have done to get it to fit!

[iamshayan]

What size oxygen sensor tool do our B6 A4's require to pull them out? Thanks

19 IIRC if you want to use a crow foot.... I just used a crescent wrench


But like, when i tried installing it a while ago when i was completely stock i couldnt get the big evap tube (the metal one) into the TIP. Hmmmmmm

you can just switch that metal L tube with the pancake valve


So I believe its time I asked my questions, I looked everywhere but seems to be no explanation for some of these questions....other are just plain ol- dumb

I am new to my 03-1.8TQMT completely stock, with no sunroof

my first question:

1) is it possible to put in a sunroof aftermarket or dealer installed ?

2)...Long story short... My AC stopped working ( econ light stayed on permanently).....had it recharged...then started working..but when it started working...the computer ( trip count) reset itself....does anyone know what happened ?... since then I havent touched my Econ Button..simply just use the off and auto buttons.

3) where would I be able to get the Quattro sign for the front grill...mine fell off and now its just the plastic piece there that it was attached too

4) last question sorry for rambling..... I have stock 205/65/R15 on stock non sport suspension....does anyone know how big I would be able to go or what would be the best size up

Thank and I appreciate all the help

1. you need this (http://genrental.com/wp-content/uploads/sawzall_large.jpg)
2. sounds like the compressor.
3. ebay.
4. bigger tires or "rimzzzz brooo".?

[HayWood]

I'm thinking of importing a US B6 home to Norway.. Is it hard to change the odometer and the speedometer to the metric system? Making it measure the driving distance in Kilometers instead of miles, and the speed in KMH instead of MPH?

[Charles.waite]

I'm thinking of importing a US B6 home to Norway.. Is it hard to change the odometer and the speedometer to the metric system? Making it measure the driving distance in Kilometers instead of miles, and the speed in KMH instead of MPH?

I think you can just get a cluster from a junkyard that is for Metric. I doubt it would be worth the effort (or even possible) to modify a US cluster to Metric Units.

There are people here that will "Virginize" the cluster for you so you can reset the odometer to the correct KM reading and you should be set after that.

[HayWood]

Thank you for the quick reply!

Do you think it will automatically convert the already driven mileage to kilometer when the cluster is replaced? Or will it reset?

[AudiA4_20T]

Thank you for the quick reply!

Do you think it will automatically convert the already driven mileage to kilometer when the cluster is replaced? Or will it reset?

there are ways to recode clusters but it's hard to find people with the tools.

[Mr.Avant]

At what oil psi is the low oil pressure warning triggered?

[CHARLES A4]

Should I be able to hear my diverter valve with my stock motor and airbox?

[Wild_Desimunda]

1. you need this (http://genrental.com/wp-content/uploads/sawzall_large.jpg)
2. sounds like the compressor.
3. ebay.
4. bigger tires or "rimzzzz brooo".?


Thanks for the Reply, "iamshayan" ....and as for that Saw...I think I'll live with my solid roof :)... and as for the tires/Rims...I simply asked because everyone seems to have their own opinions on it,, some like 19's other 18's...as far as I know... general rule says up to inches from Stock (15') in my case...guess just curious how big the rim/tire combo would have to before it starts to rub and cause other headaches.

Thanks in advance.

P.S great to see someone-else from Toronto on here :)

[mjt20mik]

Suspension / Tires:

My car really shakes when i do hit little cracks on the road, and shakes lightly even when driving on paved surfaces. Could it be that my suspension / springs are gone?

[waldo1324]

Should I be able to hear my diverter valve with my stock motor and airbox?

nope- its a closed loop system

[waldo1324]

Suspension / Tires:

My car really shakes when i do hit little cracks on the road, and shakes lightly even when driving on paved surfaces. Could it be that my suspension / springs are gone?

me thinks shocks.. mine suck too

[iamshayan]

so heres the dumb question of the day.
has anyone ever twin charged a 1.8t or 2.0t?
just watched a video of a lotus with a 1.8L twin charge making 700chp weighing liek 2000 pounds

[mjt20mik]

me thinks shocks.. mine suck too

Yeah that's what I was assuming. I guess its time for me to purchase some coilovers