questions you thought were too dumb to ask

[SJorge3442]

Quick tip never store batteries on the ground or a concrete floor they ground out and die

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This is no longer the case. This is an old myth that won't loose steam. Current day batteries will have zero effect when placed on the ground. This dates back to the old days when batteries actually had wood and glass in them and the moisture from being on the ground could cause the wood to swell, breaking the glass. Considering we don't have that any more, this is no longer a concern.

[gilber33]

Just make sure you've got the radio code. You'll be fine.

I called the dealer for the radio code the other day and he said it doesn't have one, instead they need to swap the battery and then charge me 160 to reprogram it. I laughed at him and hung up.

Anyone have a known dealer that will give me the radio code?

[fR3ZNO]

I called the dealer for the radio code the other day and he said it doesn't have one, instead they need to swap the battery and then charge me 160 to reprogram it. I laughed at him and hung up.

Anyone have a known dealer that will give me the radio code?

Just call a few random ones. I got lucky and called one in Kansas or something and they gave it to me. lol

[gilber33]

Quick tip never store batteries on the ground or a concrete floor they ground out and die

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This battery has been stored on the ground when not in use for a few years with zero issues.

[jacobsen]

This is no longer the case. This is an old myth that won't loose steam. Current day batteries will have zero effect when placed on the ground. This dates back to the old days when batteries actually had wood and glass in them and the moisture from being on the ground could cause the wood to swell, breaking the glass. Considering we don't have that any more, this is no longer a concern.
I still have my oem wood and glass audi battery. I never set it on the ground and i give her a fresh spackling of varnish in spring and fall. Not sure im ready for the hickory retrofit diy.

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[amgraham]

Currently stage 1 APR and was planning to go 1+ tomorrow until I can get a Frankenturbo setup. Was thinking of swapping the injectors at home and making the 10 minute drive to the shop. Am I just keeping it out of boost and below 3k or is it not a good idea to even try it?

When I went from stock to 1+ I put the injectors in first and it barely ran and was super rich before the tune. I was worried about clogging up the cat. Dunno if it's less of an issue going from 1 to 1+ but I wasn't able to drive mine anywhere without the tune.


This is no longer the case. This is an old myth that won't loose steam. Current day batteries will have zero effect when placed on the ground. This dates back to the old days when batteries actually had wood and glass in them and the moisture from being on the ground could cause the wood to swell, breaking the glass. Considering we don't have that any more, this is no longer a concern.

I own a shop and have had several modern batteries die sitting on a concrete floor. It still happens. I always set them on a block of wood or something.

[jacobsen]

When I went from stock to 1+ I put the injectors in first and it barely ran and was super rich before the tune. I was worried about clogging up the cat. Dunno if it's less of an issue going from 1 to 1+ but I wasn't able to drive mine anywhere without the tune.



I own a shop and have had several modern batteries die sitting on a concrete floor. It still happens. I always set them on a block of wood or something.
Yeah, it's happened to me too. But maybe it was just from sitting for a little while. How long has it taken in your case? I think in mind it was a couple weeks

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[gilber33]

Well, apparently my local dealer is under the impression that there is no such thing as an Audi owner disconnecting their battery. Because after he swore there was no code and inin order for him to get the radio to work he has to take it out, call audi, give them the radio serial number, and ask permission to make it work again. Then I asked him, that based in your thought process, no audi owner in Milwaukee ever disconnects their battery at home? And he said no. Wtf.

[old guy]

No need for a code when you disconnect the battery. I do it all the time. You only need the radio code if you disconnect the RADIO.

[gilber33]

No need for a code when you disconnect the battery. I do it all the time. You only need the radio code if you disconnect the battery.

I think you repeated yourself there. I'm trying to replace my battery and am looking for a radio code. Dealer says thatthat doesn't exist.

[old guy]

Sorry about that! I fixed the previous post. And you probably will need a radio code if you disconnect the radio. I had to recode mine when I disconnected it.

[gilber33]

So remove battery, put new battery in and the radio will still work. But if I for some reason wanted to disconnect the radio, then I would need a code for it?

And I'm not disconnecting the radio. No reason to. Just want to replace the battery.

[old guy]

So remove battery, put new battery in and the radio will still work. But if I for some reason wanted to disconnect the radio, then I would need a code for it?

That is correct. You will have to reset your clock but that's about it.

[gmudan]

If you wanted to be extra safe i learned a neat trick, just hook up a battery charger to the terminals and unhook the battery with the charger terminals still attached. Then replace the battery.

[Let it snow]

If you wanted to be extra safe i learned a neat trick, just hook up a battery charger to the terminals and unhook the battery with the charger terminals still attached. Then replace the battery.


I just did something similar. I plugged my battery jumper into my cigarette lighter, then replaced the battery.



http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_26573.jpg

[fR3ZNO]

I've removed my battery and radio multiple times on separate occasions and have never needed a radio code... I thought it was strange because I had to do it on my B5 all the time.

[deyrag]

I have done both (removed battery and removed radio to swap in a B7 console) and never needed a radio code.

[my1stturbo]

It will be just fine [up]

Swapped out the injectors this morning and had nothing but misfires so swapped the originals back in. I know I have to swap over the o-ring on the top of the injector, but I need to do the same on the bottom? Rail seemed to seat fine with a push but want to see if maybe it was too far in or something. I have picks of the new injector if needed.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Make sure you lubricate the orings before sliding then into place. Dry orings can snag and tear.

I dont think driving on 386cc injectors without a tune is a good idea. Youll be running fairly rich and it could very well explain your misfires. 282cc compared to 386cc without a tune is a big difference.

[jacobsen]

Swapped out the injectors this morning and had nothing but misfires so swapped the originals back in. I know I have to swap over the o-ring on the top of the injector, but I need to do the same on the bottom? Rail seemed to seat fine with a push but want to see if maybe it was too far in or something. I have picks of the new injector if needed.
The tt225 AKA 386 CC injectors require a unique o ring which cost me about $40 at the dealership. The price was even more expensive on eBay if you can believe that. Make sure you have the correct oil rings. Nobody, and I mean nobody had those o Rings, not Napa, not AutoZone, not O'Reilly, not Advance Auto and it took me a minute or two to figure out the part number. So just make sure you have the correct all rings for the TT not the A4. And yes the bottom ones are what I'm talking about.
And as already mentioned grease them with silicone or a rubber safe Grease. I've actually noticed some staining around the bottom of my injectors between the injector cups in the injectors so I'm not 100% I'm getting 100% seal. But they're mostly clean just some evidence of some blow by.
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[my1stturbo]

I was able to swap over the upper o-ring from the OEM injector to the new one and the new one seemed to seat well in the rail. For the lower, the injector looked like this:

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/mumbles_/IMAG1357_zpsniyn891f.jpg

So it appears to have the o-ring on there. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything.

[G.AUDI]

Part number of said bottom oring?

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[DarkoNova]

Anyone that swapped in a Symphony II+, do all the buttons on your steering wheels work?

Nobody has ever said that they didn't work in any swap threads. The only ones that work are the volume buttons.

I'm just wondering if my adapter harness isn't pinned correctly or if I need another adapter specifically for the buttons on the steering wheel...

[Northern_B6]

2003 1.8T

Need a new Bank 1 Sensor 1 02 sensor.

Just wanting someone to confirm that the Bosch 17351 is the correct replacement before I order.

Link for reference: https://www.amazon.ca/Bosch-17351-Oxygen-sensor/dp/B00427MIFC/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Audi%7C73&Model=A4%20Quattro%7C987&Year=2003%7C2003&ie=UTF8&n=6948389011&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

Also I'm aware that the Bosch 17014 can be purchased for less $$ and modified to work. Not interested in splicing/soldering a wideband sensor so I'll gladly spend the extra $50.

[az]

[PreciseD]

Anyone ever put a switch on the MAF so you don't have to unplug it to get to speed density?

[my1stturbo]

Anyone know the correct size of the bolt securing the projector in a halogen light? Not sure if it's 5 or 5.5 and my set has a smallest of 6 so have to pick up loose socket tomorrow.

[old guy]

Anyone know the correct size of the bolt securing the projector in a halogen light? Not sure if it's 5 or 5.5 and my set has a smallest of 6 so have to pick up loose socket tomorrow.

5.5mm. I pulled my headlight and removed the nut just for you ;)

http://i66.tinypic.com/6e3m7l.jpg

[customa4]

Car just died while I was driving, assuming it's the fuel pump. Pump isn't priming when key goes to on position. Swapped fuel pump fuse and still no dice. What are the chances it could be the fuel pump relay? Should I just order a pump?

[CardFan]

2003 1.8T

Need a new Bank 1 Sensor 1 02 sensor.

Just wanting someone to confirm that the Bosch 17351 is the correct replacement before I order.

Link for reference: https://www.amazon.ca/Bosch-17351-Oxygen-sensor/dp/B00427MIFC/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Audi%7C73&Model=A4%20Quattro%7C987&Year=2003%7C2003&ie=UTF8&n=6948389011&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

Also I'm aware that the Bosch 17014 can be purchased for less $$ and modified to work. Not interested in splicing/soldering a wideband sensor so I'll gladly spend the extra $50.

[az]

ECS lists a Bosch sensor (https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Exhaust/Emissions/Oxygen_Sensor/ES2539127/) for the front bank and 17351 is listed in the previous revisions section. I'd say you're good.

[Luxus Panzer]

Car just died while I was driving, assuming it's the fuel pump. Pump isn't priming when key goes to on position. Swapped fuel pump fuse and still no dice. What are the chances it could be the fuel pump relay? Should I just order a pump?


I had same thing / symptoms last winter....was the pump.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/683650-my-fuel-pump-just-gave-up-the-ghost-on-way-home-from-xmas-vacation

[my1stturbo]

5.5mm. I pulled my headlight and removed the nut just for you ;)

http://i66.tinypic.com/6e3m7l.jpg

Thanks old guy, way more than I expected. But that's why I love this forum!

[old guy]

Thanks old guy, way more than I expected. But that's why I love this forum!

I must confess, I have a collection of headlight components in a box on the shelf[:D]

[customa4]

I had same thing / symptoms last winter....was the pump.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/683650-my-fuel-pump-just-gave-up-the-ghost-on-way-home-from-xmas-vacation

Had a fuel pump overnighted.

Is there anything else that needs to be changed when swapping the pump?

[customa4]

Had a fuel pump overnighted.

Is there anything else that needs to be changed when swapping the pump?
Anyone? Plan on doing this tomorrow. Do I need the fuel pump seal?

[Let it snow]

Anyone? Plan on doing this tomorrow. Do I need the fuel pump seal?

I would. It is relatively cheap. Would suck to have spillage on your next fill up.

[customa4]

Called the VW dealer around the corner, said he's got plenty in stock so shouldn't be a problem. Fuel filter wasn't changed too long ago so that will be staying but if there's any other suggestions guys, feel free.

[my1stturbo]

Is it possible to refill empty AC system at home using cans from auto parts store or do you need to get it done professionally? I tried one of those that has a gauge incorporated into nozzle without much success. Plan to get it vacuumed and filled soon but wanted something until then.

[old guy]

Is it possible to refill empty AC system at home using cans from auto parts store or do you need to get it done professionally? I tried one of those that has a gauge incorporated into nozzle without much success. Plan to get it vacuumed and filled soon but wanted something until then.

If the system is totally empty you really need to have it filled properly by first evacuating the system with a vacuum pump. Time to go to an A/C shop.

[Luxus Panzer]

Had a fuel pump overnighted.

Is there anything else that needs to be changed when swapping the pump?

May as well do the fuel filter while you are at it.

[my1stturbo]

If the system is totally empty you really need to have it filled properly by first evacuating the system with a vacuum pump. Time to go to an A/C shop.

Thanks, that's what I was afraid of. Plan to replace the compressor(shop advised it was leaking from the compressor) and condenser next week but was trying to get through the heat wave until then. Might be driving the Passat until then.

[SJorge3442]

Called the VW dealer around the corner, said he's got plenty in stock so shouldn't be a problem. Fuel filter wasn't changed too long ago so that will be staying but if there's any other suggestions guys, feel free.
Heads up. The lock ring sucks! Use two crescent wrenches shaped in an X so that you can hook the two open ends into the ring and turn them. This was the only way I could get my ring to budge.

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[Lauri0112]

Do B6 avant strut ends unscrew? Maybe someone knows, just asking. :)
https://www.upload.ee/image/6010460/1.jpg

Going for this: http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/how-to-b7-avant-auto-boot-opening.240812/

[hgtuner08]

does anybody use anti seize compound on caliper bolts, not slide pins but carrier bolts? I'm putting on an ST40 kit and just wondering if it's a bad idea or fine?

[fR3ZNO]

does anybody use anti seize compound on caliper bolts, not slide pins but carrier bolts? I'm putting on an ST40 kit and just wondering if it's a bad idea or fine?

I don't do it. I live in an area where roads are heavily salted in the winter and I still don't have an issue removing the carrier bolts.


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Do B6 avant strut ends unscrew? Maybe someone knows, just asking. :)
https://www.upload.ee/image/6010460/1.jpg

Going for this: http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/how-to-b7-avant-auto-boot-opening.240812/

The DIY says to use A6 struts anyway. A6 hatch is heavier so that would help lift the lighter A4 hatch. Plus new ones would be better off than your old A4 ones that have probably weakened with age.

[eljay]

does anybody use anti seize compound on caliper bolts, not slide pins but carrier bolts? I'm putting on an ST40 kit and just wondering if it's a bad idea or fine?
Not only did I not use anti-seize, I actually used blue loctite to make sure they don't go anywhere.
That said, once they were in, I coated the exposed end (facing outward) lightlu with grease, so it does not rust and seize too quickly in the carrier.

Also, keep in mind that when you use anti-seize, it acts as a lubricant, so when you torque down the bolts with a torque wrench, the actual torque applied will be higher, so you need a lower setting. How much lower is a guess.
I think the OEM spec for the bolts is 155 lbs-ft.

[gmudan]

I had to use 034 Motorsport injector spacers to get my fuel rail to play nicely with my I.E. intake manifold. The stock retaining clips can't go back on because they won't fit. Think I should bolt the rail in and it should be enough to hold the fuel injectors in? http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160729/9ee9b7354087ddafb0c8f5a80624b52f.jpg

[Jermunji]

Dumb question thats been irking me for a few days. Notice on startup from overnight the B6 is burning some oil as evident from the little of blue smoke and smell. Sometimes. It will misfire for a bit before calming down. Once driving though there is no smoke at all and if I come back to drive throughout the rest of the day it doesn't do it again until the next mornings cold start. What could be the primary culprit? Valve seats? Piston rings? I've got a leaking valve cover gasket. Where should I begin in getting it rectified? #StartingToFreakOut


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[jacobsen]

Dumb question thats been irking me for a few days. Notice on startup from overnight the B6 is burning some oil as evident from the little of blue smoke and smell. Sometimes. It will misfire for a bit before calming down. Once driving though there is no smoke at all and if I come back to drive throughout the rest of the day it doesn't do it again until the next mornings cold start. What could be the primary culprit? Valve seats? Piston rings? I've got a leaking valve cover gasket. Where should I begin in getting it rectified? #StartingToFreakOut


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Turbo seals or oil build up in intake path, try disconnecting your intercooler and intake pipe from turbo to see if theirs oil and drain it.

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[DarkoNova]

I have the notorious 3.0 coolant pipe leak under the intake. I'm planning on taking the intake off soon and just want to make sure, if I don't take off the throttle body, I don't have to worry about adjusting/aligning it in vcds, right? I'm not sure if I have to remove the throttle body or if I can just pull the intake with it, I'll figure that out as I go, I guess.

Does anybody know the part numbers offhand for the O-rings for the coolant pipe so I can have them on hand? It would be nice to be able to get this done in a day instead of having to wait on parts...

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Dumb question thats been irking me for a few days. Notice on startup from overnight the B6 is burning some oil as evident from the little of blue smoke and smell. Sometimes. It will misfire for a bit before calming down. Once driving though there is no smoke at all and if I come back to drive throughout the rest of the day it doesn't do it again until the next mornings cold start. What could be the primary culprit? Valve seats? Piston rings? I've got a leaking valve cover gasket. Where should I begin in getting it rectified? #StartingToFreakOut


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Is your valve cover gasket allowing oil to leak down onto the exhaust manifold? Mine does and cause a burned oil smell at stop lights and i get the occasional wake up smoke.

Mine is clearly the valve cover gasket and I've been too lazy to fix it. If i remove the valve cover I plan on painting it.

[Jermunji]

Ahh. Point taken. I have neglected the valve cover but alas the smoke comes out of my tailpipes in the morning for the first 15 seconds or so.

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[MurkyRivers_A4]

Anytime M8. I hope its something as simple as that :)

[SJorge3442]

I have the notorious 3.0 coolant pipe leak under the intake. I'm planning on taking the intake off soon and just want to make sure, if I don't take off the throttle body, I don't have to worry about adjusting/aligning it in vcds, right? I'm not sure if I have to remove the throttle body or if I can just pull the intake with it, I'll figure that out as I go, I guess.

Does anybody know the part numbers offhand for the O-rings for the coolant pipe so I can have them on hand? It would be nice to be able to get this done in a day instead of having to wait on parts...
Just don't touch the throttle plate. Unbolt the body and that's it. You can always do a ghetto throttle body sync with a combination of throttle pedal presses and key cycles. Coolant pipe shouldn't be bad unless its actually rotted.

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[DarkoNova]

Just don't touch the throttle plate. Unbolt the body and that's it. You can always do a ghetto throttle body sync with a combination of throttle pedal presses and key cycles. Coolant pipe shouldn't be bad unless its actually rotted.

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So I can just set it aside and be OK? That's good to hear.

Thanks.

[SJorge3442]

So I can just set it aside and be OK? That's good to hear.

Thanks.
Yup. You should be fine. Mind you. Everything is tight back there. I recommend having s swivel joint handy to help break some of those bolts loose. Not a fun job, but certainly doable.

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[gilber33]

Does anyone have a picture of the hood latch mechanism. I did the t belt this weekend and popped the cable out the mechanism before looking at how it's attached. And for some reason I can't get it back in there.

[old guy]

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/b9g36t.jpg

https://www.searchlock.com/mirror/p?e=1&h=BdN24z5op/U2uUAm7diy6PXuuA3NGzL/Pkt4osOFVoigU+r9aTkJ0mqGVdIWTTvewff6sHkkyAJ7pPuSAW b8fATKfywLubDNf8PsGQY/8ImhhH6lIAgeKhnqDS/7zbki&u=http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/326892_x800.jpg

[gilber33]

Thank you. I realized I was trying it to put it in the wrong....hole.

[DarkoNova]

Every now and then when I go to roll up my windows, one of them (usually the front driver's side) will get all the way up, but as soon as I let go of the button, will roll back down about 3-4 inches.

Just this morning, the front passenger's side window did it, and when I tried doing the one-touch-up to close it, it stopped moving as soon as I let go of the switch. Like I don't have one touch windows anymore.

Is that a sign that the master switch on the driver's door is dying? Or do I need vcds to see wtf is going on?

[old guy]

It sounds like you just need to reset the pinch protection. Raise the window all the way up and then hold the switch in the up position for 5 seconds. Then lower the window all the way down and hold the switch in the down position for 5 seconds. That should reset the pinch protection as well as the one touch feature.

[DarkoNova]

I thought it may be something like that because I've had to do something similar on my wife's Honda a couple times. On hers, I think you just have to hold the switch when the window closes, so I tried that.

I'll try doing the proper procedure today after work, hopefully that will fix it.

Thanks!

[NickTerry]

I had my rear passenger strut blow on me a few months back, I drove around on it for maybe a week or two while waiting for some new struts to arrive. After replacing both sides I started hearing a faint knocking noise (maybe it started right after the strut blew but I can't remember). It didn't seem to matter the condition of the driving surface. I took the strut back out and reinstalled thinking I misplaced something. That didn't seem to fix it. The noise has been getting worse over the past couple of weeks. Ever since I got the car back from the paint shop it has been insane. The noise sounds like the exhaust might be clunking around but it's not constant and isn't based on acceleration or braking. The noise comes and makes all sorts of racket lasting maybe 5 seconds? Then fades and doesn't make a sound or is so faint I can barely hear it for another 5-10 seconds. Then will come back with the loud clunking/knocking again etc etc.

I actually feel embarrassed by the clunking noises that are being made. Has anyone experienced this sort of thing? The control arm bushings looked fine but maybe that is the cause?

[jacobsen]

I had my rear passenger strut blow on me a few months back, I drove around on it for maybe a week or two while waiting for some new struts to arrive. After replacing both sides I started hearing a faint knocking noise (maybe it started right after the strut blew but I can't remember). It didn't seem to matter the condition of the driving surface. I took the strut back out and reinstalled thinking I misplaced something. That didn't seem to fix it. The noise has been getting worse over the past couple of weeks. Ever since I got the car back from the paint shop it has been insane. The noise sounds like the exhaust might be clunking around but it's not constant and isn't based on acceleration or braking. The noise comes and makes all sorts of racket lasting maybe 5 seconds? Then fades and doesn't make a sound or is so faint I can barely hear it for another 5-10 seconds. Then will come back with the loud clunking/knocking again etc etc.

I actually feel embarrassed by the clunking noises that are being made. Has anyone experienced this sort of thing? The control arm bushings looked fine but maybe that is the cause?
Sway bar link?

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[gilber33]

I replaced the coolant flange on the back of the block this weekend. When I put coolant in it appears to be leaking from the heater core supply hose where it snaps to the flange. Is there supposed to be an o ring in the hose? I felt like it fit a little loose compared to the other coolant hoses, but all I did was remove it and install it on the new flange.

[jacobsen]

I replaced the coolant flange on the back of the block this weekend. When I put coolant in it appears to be leaking from the heater core supply hose where it snaps to the flange. Is there supposed to be an o ring in the hose? I felt like it fit a little loose compared to the other coolant hoses, but all I did was remove it and install it on the new flange.
Typically when there is a leak at the coolant flange at the rear of the 1.8 T head in my experience it's the heater core supply hose. Not the coolant flange. My heater core supply hose leak at the Quick Connect coupler two separate times. The first time it had literally just disintegrated where the hose was crimped onto the coupler. The second time, I put the hose clamp on the new quick connect coupler too tight and the actual coupler piece that goes inside the hose got warped and bent. It's a very common problem. It's clearly a design flaw and a weakness in the system. it's annoying to work on because of its location. There's no need to replace the entire heater core hose, I got the coupling piece on eBay for $8. And screw down band clamp is an upgrade from the crimp style that comes with the car. Hopefully you don't have any broken bits of plastic floating around in there from that. And yes there is an O-ring inside the quick connect coupler. The O-ring seals the connecting port on the coolant flange. I'm not sure if you could just put it on the coolant flange first but if I recall correctly lubricated it with some silicone and left it inside the indentation in the coupler which is designed to hold the O-ring. So yes you do need to have an o-ring in the coupler, there is a round Groove that it lives in and if you lubricate it it's easy to get the darn thing on there.

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[CardFan]

I replaced the coolant flange on the back of the block this weekend. When I put coolant in it appears to be leaking from the heater core supply hose where it snaps to the flange. Is there supposed to be an o ring in the hose? I felt like it fit a little loose compared to the other coolant hoses, but all I did was remove it and install it on the new flange.


Typically when there is a leak at the coolant flange at the rear of the 1.8 T head in my experience it's the heater core supply hose. Not the coolant flange. My heater core supply hose leak at the Quick Connect coupler two separate times. The first time it had literally just disintegrated where the hose was crimped onto the coupler. The second time, I put the hose clamp on the new quick connect coupler too tight and the actual coupler piece that goes inside the hose got warped and bent. It's a very common problem. It's clearly a design flaw and a weakness in the system. it's annoying to work on because of its location. There's no need to replace the entire heater core hose, I got the coupling piece on eBay for $8. And screw down band clamp is an upgrade from the crimp style that comes with the car. Hopefully you don't have any broken bits of plastic floating around in there from that. And yes there is an O-ring inside the quick connect coupler. The O-ring seals the connecting port on the coolant flange. I'm not sure if you could just put it on the coolant flange first but if I recall correctly lubricated it with some silicone and left it inside the indentation in the coupler which is designed to hold the O-ring. So yes you do need to have an o-ring in the coupler, there is around Groove that it lives in and if you lubricate it it's easy to get the darn thing on there.

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This (https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2627303/) is the hose, and you can see the quick disconnect jacobsen is talking about. I recently had a leak there as well, and my flange was pretty new. A new o-ring fixed my problem, the quick disconnect was still in good shape. Also, the connection didn't feel tight and slid right off when I pulled it apart. My o-ring was there, just worn out.

[gilber33]

Thanks. I looked on ecs and according to their page there is not an o ring in the heater hose. Either way, it's definitely the heater hose leaking and is not sealing against the flange. It has a ton of slop when snapped into place and it's very easy to remove and install. According to the ecs installation guide, it should be relatively difficult to do

Edit. I can see the o ring in the hose there.

[CardFan]

Thanks. I looked on ecs and according to their page there is not an o ring in the heater hose. Either way, it's definitely the heater hose leaking and is not sealing against the flange. It has a ton of slop when snapped into place and it's very easy to remove and install. According to the ecs installation guide, it should be relatively difficult to do

Edit. I can see the o ring in the hose there.

Yes it's there. I ordered the hose assembly from ECS before tearing into it, but only used the o-ring.

[gilber33]

O ring is here on mine too. But from the looks of it, it is well worn and past its functional life.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv213/gilber33/20160730_231624_zpsxhbppgwd.jpg (http://s685.photobucket.com/user/gilber33/media/20160730_231624_zpsxhbppgwd.jpg.html)

It also appears this is not the first time it was leaking. Except their answer to fix it was to toss on some rtv.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv213/gilber33/20160730_231959_zpsda998tk2.jpg (http://s685.photobucket.com/user/gilber33/media/20160730_231959_zpsda998tk2.jpg.html)

[jacobsen]

Yes my original oring failed when i tried to use it on my replacement. The old oring will be loose. It wont wiggle with a new oring but beware, most of the china couplers dont include an oring but the ones in usa usually do... i saw the part number floating around the forums but at the dealer it shouldnt be bad, the Audi dealer is cheaper than the Volkswagen dealer in Minnesota.

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[jacobsen]

Lol at rtv!

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[NickTerry]

Sway bar link?

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I took a couple of pictures of varies things under there.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160731/ca47c772375f3ac97516c5b61ab8ba73.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160731/93cd5063f399ba329768d7637d52b9f7.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160731/405ef7393bb46e86269311ffc5bf2150.jpg

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[Jermunji]

Sway bar link?

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My 034 motorsports RSB and spherical endlinks clunk when I drive over potholes or speed bumps as well. I thought the exhaust was rattling as well amd got under there only to realize it was the RSB and endlinks but everything is tight as a button. I left it alone and just considered its a side effect. #BecauseRacecar


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[jacobsen]

My 034 motorsports RSB and spherical endlinks clunk when I drive over potholes or speed bumps as well. I thought the exhaust was rattling as well amd got under there only to realize it was the RSB and endlinks but everything is tight as a button. I left it alone and just considered its a side effect. #BecauseRacecar


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Ball joints should not clunk. The tolerance in the joint should be so tight that it gives no play and will hold itself in various positions on its own. If a ball joint does not hold itself in various positions on its own or has any play or looseness in it or if there are wear spots or areas within the joint that are weak the joint is bad and should be replaced.

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[Jermunji]

My ball joints don't clunk. The spherical endlink on my RSB does though


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[diagnosticator]

My 034 motorsports RSB and spherical endlinks clunk when I drive over potholes or speed bumps as well. I thought the exhaust was rattling as well amd got under there only to realize it was the RSB and endlinks but everything is tight as a button. I left it alone and just considered its a side effect. #BecauseRacecar


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Exposed spherical ball joints are really only suitable for track use. Any spherical joints on a street driven car should have rubber boots over the joints with a method for regreasing occasionally or the boots should be sealed. If exposed joints are installed on a daily driver, there is no reason to complain about prematurely worn out and noisy spherical joints.

[Jermunji]

Mine do have the rubber boots over them. I'm not particularly complaining about them. My apologies for not being specific earlier. I think the noise is from the connection point between both halves where the nut goes but I'd have to get back under the rear end to locate it precisely. The spherical joints are nice and tight with no play in them. Lol I honestly had begun to think the clunking was normal. Heres a pic of the connection point in question. And I will get under and re-grease those joints. [up]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160801/11925d69e569f954973421b7ff56fae5.png


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[fR3ZNO]

How do I check the PCV system for excessive pressure buildup (1.8T)? I noticed that my VC gasket is leaking/weeping, it's only one year old and Victor Reinz. The CCT gasket and half moon also seems to be leaking, which was replaced at the same time.

I would think a VCG should last longer than that. As far as I can tell, it would be a stuck PCV valve causing pressure to buildup? I'm pretty sure the other hoses are clear and free of restrictions.

[jacobsen]

How do I check the PCV system for excessive pressure buildup (1.8T)? I noticed that my VC gasket is leaking/weeping, it's only one year old and Victor Reinz. The CCT gasket and half moon also seems to be leaking, which was replaced at the same time.

I would think a VCG should last longer than that. As far as I can tell, it would be a stuck PCV valve causing pressure to buildup? I'm pretty sure the other hoses are clear and free of restrictions.
Try loosening your oil cap and placing it on the oil fill hole loosely. Rev the motor and check to see if it pushes up are sucks down on the valve cover. Also check to see if your dipstick tube is pushing out or sucking in or neutral. When you install the valve cover gasket and half wound seal and Gasket you should lightly coat them in rtv. The valve cover gasket actually only needs a little RTV in a couple spots.

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[fR3ZNO]

Try loosening your oil cap and placing it on the oil fill hole loosely. Rev the motor and check to see if it pushes up are sucks down on the valve cover. Also check to see if your dipstick tube is pushing out or sucking in or neutral. When you install the valve cover gasket and half wound seal and Gasket you should lightly coat them in rtv. The valve cover gasket actually only needs a little RTV in a couple spots.

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I'll give the oil cap/dipstick tube thing a try.

I did apply RTV to the sharp corners on the VCG as instructed in the Bentley. I installed the CCT gasket and half moon dry, though (also recommended by the Bentley). The stamped metal CCT gasket already has the RTV applied to it, I thought. See the blue sealing compound in the pic?

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/373660_x800.jpg

[old guy]

Disconnect your vacuum hoses that connect to the intake manifold one at a time. Use an air nozzle to pressurize the hose. There should be no air at all going into the hose. If you can blow any air into the hose that would mean that your check valve or PCV valve isn’t working properly and consequently you will be pressurizing the block and causing gaskets to leak.

[gilber33]

What's more common to fail: power seat motor or switch?

My DS seat doesn't like going back. I typically have to fidget with the switch to get it to go back. That usually consists of pushing it forward and then going directly back for it to slide backwards. 1 out of 5 times it will move .25 inch and then stop, the other 4 times it doesn't move at all. And maybe after 15 attempts the seat will freely move back to where I need it.

Did some searching and couldn't find anything other than complete failures.

[fR3ZNO]

Disconnect your vacuum hoses that connect to the intake manifold one at a time. Use an air nozzle to pressurize the hose. There should be no air at all going into the hose. If you can blow any air into the hose that would mean that your check valve or PCV valve isn’t working properly and consequently you will be pressurizing the block and causing gaskets to leak.

I didn't have a chance to pressurize any of the hoses. But I gave them all a look over for any cracks, etc. however I did find one that looked and felt to be collapsed. I don't think that would cause any issue with the PCV, though.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160803/927cfe4b4622a5b2ff69fac33604ee9a.jpg

06B 103 224 B was the hose that was collapsed.


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[MetalMan]

On my 2004 1.8T, I noticed the check valve at the brake booster has a green-colored cap that seems to be sealing off a nipple. Does anyone know if this nipple sees vacuum and boost? If so that would make it a great location to tap for a boost gauge.
I do realize this spot sits behind the SJP, but I'm not familiar enough with the SJP to know if boost would transmit past the SJP.

(My old B5 AEB 1.8T car had a similar capped-off nipple on its brake booster check valve, and I used that as the boost gauge tap)

[old guy]

Boost does not pass through the SJP.

[gilber33]

Replaced the front brake lines, pads and rotors. Bled the lines. Reservoir is topped off. But the brake light is illuminated on the dash. I haven't driven it yet, but wondering what would trigger that? On my past Volvos the brake light would usually be on after replacing lines but shut off after a short drive.

Thanks

[old guy]

Did you remember to plug in the brake pad wear sensor?

[gilber33]

Yes. Both sensors were plugged back in.

Edit. I'm an idiot. I didn't have the e brake down all the way.

[old guy]

Yes. Both sensors were plugged back in.

Edit. I'm an idiot. I didn't have the e brake down all the way.

Don't you just love simple repairs ;)

[auditi]

I pulled the ash tray up and out of the way, now I can't get it back in for the life of me.... What the heck am I doing wrong? Pretty sure this is a stupid question, so thought I'd post it here...

[old guy]

I pulled the ash tray up and out of the way, now I can't get it back in for the life of me.... What the heck am I doing wrong? Pretty sure this is a stupid question, so thought I'd post it here...

This may help: Clicky click® (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/311658-Ash-tray-problem-help?p=4229163&viewfull=1#post4229163)

[auditi]

This may help: Clicky click® (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/311658-Ash-tray-problem-help?p=4229163&viewfull=1#post4229163)

Unless I'm really missing something, it just says reinstall is a bitch... I don't want to kill power to the stereo since I just got the car and don't have the radio code, so I can't pull the stereo all the way out, otherwise, I'd probably just pull it and climate control... Looks like I should just keep trying, I just don't want to break any plastic... But thanks for the link, now I know how to completely remove it, and I will need that since I think I'm gonna switch the trim in the console to black...

[old guy]

I have had mine in and out numerous times without removing the radio. I added the link so you can see the picture as to how the ashtray connects to the console.

[auditi]

I have had mine in and out numerous times without removing the radio. I added the link so you can see the picture as to how the ashtray connects to the console.

Oh damn, now I see it! Told you this belonged in this thread... Haha. Thanks again, will try again shortly...

[auditi]

I got it, but barely, and while it works, it doesn't seem right... I also had none of the rubber feet on anymore, i found and saved one, but the others are missing. Being that I'm pulling the console shortly to change the cigarette lighter for a folder (I have a non folding one, always open?!), maybe I'll find the other feet then...

Thanks again...

[DarkoNova]

Since we're talking about the ashtray, when I had mine out a few weeks ago, it looks like there's a big diffuser for an LED. But mine doesn't light up. Is there supposed to be a light when you open the ashtray or no?

[jacobsen]

Since we're talking about the ashtray, when I had mine out a few weeks ago, it looks like there's a big diffuser for an LED. But mine doesn't light up. Is there supposed to be a light when you open the ashtray or no?
Yes

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[marriux1]

I have a question about the P1531 code my 2002 1.8T is throwing at me and I don't think it warrants a completely new thread since it's kind of dumb.
Anyway the full code scanned through VCDS is 17939 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment: Open Circuit P1531 - 004 - No Signal/Communication

Ross-Tech says to "Check Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Camshaft Adjustment Valve (N205)". There's just one problem.... I have no idea where that adjustment valve is. [confused][confused][confused]
Ross-Tech also says to check the fuse, is the fuse in the ECU box?

I've been looking at the 1.8T wiring harness (http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg186/AudiA4_18T/Frontharness.jpg) and i see the VVT tensioner... is that the "adjustment valve"? Needless to say, I'm in way over my head and the only mechanic I trust is about 500 miles away right now.

Can someone point me in the right direction? I've read so many threads about this and I still don't know where to start. If anyone has any tips on how I could begin diagnosing this, preferably with some pictures, I'd really appreciate it.

edit: Google-Fu helped me make some progress, I think. Is this (https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Electrical/Sensors/Camshaft_Position/ES1876/) the sensor I need to be checking?

[jacobsen]

I have a question about the P1531 code my 2002 1.8T is throwing at me and I don't think it warrants a completely new thread since it's kind of dumb.
Anyway the full code scanned through VCDS is 17939 - Camshaft Timing Adjustment: Open Circuit P1531 - 004 - No Signal/Communication

Ross-Tech says to "Check Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Camshaft Adjustment Valve (N205)". There's just one problem.... I have no idea where that adjustment valve is. [confused][confused][confused]
Ross-Tech also says to check the fuse, is the fuse in the ECU box?

I've been looking at the 1.8T wiring harness (http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg186/AudiA4_18T/Frontharness.jpg) and i see the VVT tensioner... is that the "adjustment valve"? Needless to say, I'm in way over my head and the only mechanic I trust is about 500 miles away right now.

Can someone point me in the right direction? I've read so many threads about this and I still don't know where to start. If anyone has any tips on how I could begin diagnosing this, preferably with some pictures, I'd really appreciate it.

edit: Google-Fu helped me make some progress, I think. Is this (https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Electrical/Sensors/Camshaft_Position/ES1876/) the sensor I need to be checking?
The VVT adjuster and sensor are on the back of the head.

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[gilber33]

I have a question. I don't think it's a dumb question, but not sure it warrants its own thread. I picked up a CTS fmic, not knowing that to install it you gotta cut away at the crash bar in front. Is this common for FMIC's for this model? If it is, is this pretty common? I'm a little torn on that. I'm not sure I want to cut it up as this is my daily driver & family car.

Anyone have some input on that? Thinking of maybe selling it and getting the upgraded side mount intercooler from 034.

[fR3ZNO]

Yes. Chopping up the crash bar to fit a FMIC is common.


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[AUDI 129k]

How can I get the valve stem seals off the intakes on a 1.8t? I tried needle nose pliers and that was a disaster, so I bought valve seal removal pliers and those were too big for the intake valves. I ground the tool down smaller and it's still too big, and I'm afraid that if I grind any more off, it's going to be too weak.

[MetalMan]

How can I get the valve stem seals off the intakes on a 1.8t?

Pain and suffering is how you get them off...

But seriously, without a "better" tool I just got good at using needle-nose pliers. After all, you have 12 of them to practice on. You may need to figure out which size of pliers work best.

[Willënskraft]

What's the torque spec for the next large axle bolt on the wheel hub of a 02 A4 1.8TQ? I'm going to do change the inner CV boots.

[old guy]

What's the torque spec for the next large axle bolt on the wheel hub of a 02 A4 1.8TQ? I'm going to do change the inner CV boots.

200 Nm (147lb ft) plus 180°

Here's a DIY: Clicky click (http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/axle.html)®

[my1stturbo]

What's the typical amount of oil one should expect when pulling hoses on SMIC? Pulled mine yesterday and got about a 6-7" circle.

[Willënskraft]

200 Nm (147lb ft) plus 180°

Here's a DIY: Clicky click (http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/axle.html)[emoji768]

Ahh yes, had forgot about Martini's write up lol.

[hightime80]

My driver side halogen headlight housing is cracked and require replacement. Was gonna get an used one somewhere. I always heard people talk about "depo"and "ecode" headlights. Can someone enlighten me on what's so special about the "depo" and "ecodes"?

[andrew96]

Any chance Q5 roof racks would fit my b6 a4 sedan? looking for cheap racks and found a great deal on Q5s.... thanks!

[fR3ZNO]

Any chance Q5 roof racks would fit my b6 a4 sedan? looking for cheap racks and found a great deal on Q5s.... thanks!

No they won't. I tried. The Q5 has its own rack system that uses the weird roof rails.


My driver side halogen headlight housing is cracked and require replacement. Was gonna get an used one somewhere. I always heard people talk about "depo" headlights. Can someone enlighten me on what's so special about the "depo" ?

DEPO is just an aftermarket manufacturer of headlights. They're special because they're affordable and new headlights are shiny. lol

[hightime80]

What about ecodes?

[fR3ZNO]

What about ecodes?

DEPO makes an e-code style headlight. Which is much cheaper than going the OEM Valeo e-code route.

[hightime80]

Sorry for my ignorance. But whats so special about ecodes? Just aesthetics?

[my1stturbo]

Can I get away with using ramps do change the AC compressor on the 1.8 or do I need to get the jack and stands out? Doing this by a friend so want to know what to take with me.

[jacobsen]

Any chance Q5 roof racks would fit my b6 a4 sedan? looking for cheap racks and found a great deal on Q5s.... thanks!
Yakima q bars are best, they go wider and support a heavier load and more stable.

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[customa4]

Sorry for my ignorance. But whats so special about ecodes? Just aesthetics?

E-codes come without the yellow reflector in the corner of the headlights.

[hightime80]

E-codes come without the yellow reflector in the corner of the headlights.

I see. Thanks.

[fR3ZNO]

Can I get away with using ramps do change the AC compressor on the 1.8 or do I need to get the jack and stands out? Doing this by a friend so want to know what to take with me.

Ramps would be fine


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[my1stturbo]

Ramps would be fine

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Forgot to mention I'm lowered at about 25.5 all around if that makes a difference.

[eljay]

Bring a long 2x4 to get up the ramps without scraping your bumper on them.

[DarkoNova]

Anybody had exhaust systems custom made? Ideally I want jhm downpipes and a fast intentions s4 catback, but I don't feel like spending 2 grand plus shipping on an exhaust system.

If I can get one custom built for a grand or so, I'd be happy. Not really into magnaflow, though. I've seen a few videos of 3.0's with magnaflow mufflers and it doesn't really sound that great, IMO.

[fR3ZNO]

I've been having the possessed sunroof problem, it will open randomly and sometimes it won't respond to the switch position when I try to close it.

I've taken the switch apart and adjusted the contacts, used electrical cleaner as well. When I took it apart I didn't see anything obvious, so what is the problem usually?


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[vex3000]

Does downshifting with the tip tonic put strain or cause wear on the transmission?

[jpulll]

Anyone deal with the V113 and V71 servo motors in the HVAC system? Do the motors have the same part number?

EDIT: Is this it?
"Part Number: 8E1820511L - adjust motor recirculation"
"Part Number: 8E1820511M - adjust motor ventilation"

Codes are:
3 Faults Found:

01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
00735 - Potentiometer in Positioning Motor for Air recirculation Flap (G143)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

[jacobsen]

Anyone deal with the V113 and V71 servo motors in the HVAC system? Do the motors have the same part number?

EDIT: Is this it?
"Part Number: 8E1820511L - adjust motor recirculation"
"Part Number: 8E1820511M - adjust motor ventilation"

Codes are:
3 Faults Found:

01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
00735 - Potentiometer in Positioning Motor for Air recirculation Flap (G143)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
I noticed that my intake air flap flaps at my air filter are difficult to open by hand. They don't seem to automatically open and close when you hit the recirc on and off. So I sprayed them with a little dry lube and tried to work them open then close a little bit but they seem kind of stiff. So I don't know if they open and close on their own With a Little Help of airflow???

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[CardFan]

Took the car on a rode trip this weekend and the AC stopped blowing cold about 1.5 hours into the trip, found it was freezing up. Evap drain line was not clogged so I bought a can of refrigerant at the auto parts store while at my weekend stop, added some, and it stayed cold the entire trip home (7 hour drive). The compressor and receiver drier were replaced about 5 years ago, and this is the first problem I've had since. Wondering if I'm fine leaving it as is or if I should have it evacuated and refilled by a shop?

[jacobsen]

Took the car on a rode trip this weekend and the AC stopped blowing cold about 1.5 hours into the trip, found it was freezing up. Evap drain line was not clogged so I bought a can of refrigerant at the auto parts store while at my weekend stop, added some, and it stayed cold the entire trip home (7 hour drive). The compressor and receiver drier were replaced about 5 years ago, and this is the first problem I've had since. Wondering if I'm fine leaving it as is or if I should have it evacuated and refilled by a shop?
Well you're on to something. 28 PSI is freezing for R134a refrigerant. Just keep it around 35 PSI and if you see it going higher or lower use a coffee can filled with ice water to evacuate some from your system and obviously shoot them in if you need some. I notice it takes a while for the refrigerant you add to the system to balance out. I used an Arctic freeze brand with the little NASA logo on it... It comes with a trigger that opens and closes the can, it's really nice because it allows you to put some back in unlike any other can I've seen. it took me a couple of tries and a couple of days of driving to get the PSI to stay around 32 psi. I'm not convinced those temperature charts on those low side filling gauges or something you should go by. I tried working with the little gauge and matching the PSI to the ambient temperature but it didn't work out each time I tried. When the temperature would drop the system would have too much 134 pressure in it. And for whatever reason if the temperature went higher it wouldn't work too good. I made a thread and OG chimed in, he also stated that the low 30's seems to be the best place to be. So that's my experience, I'm 3000 miles into a 5000 Mile Road Trip right now and our AC has been awesome the whole time. if you're having trouble holding 35 PSI I would think you either have an external leak, a bad restrictor valve, or something wrong with the compressor and remember the compressor compresses and sucks at the same time and you can have a problem with either one of those functions. Anytime the AC system is opened the desiccant bottle must be replaced no exceptions.

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[jpulll]

I noticed that my intake air flap flaps at my air filter are difficult to open by hand. They don't seem to automatically open and close when you hit the recirc on and off. So I sprayed them with a little dry lube and tried to work them open then close a little bit but they seem kind of stiff. So I don't know if they open and close on their own With a Little Help of airflow???

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I saw a video of the gears inside and it appears they get locked up, so the flap won't even move at all.

I'm just gonna replace them. GAP has them for cheap enough. hoping I have the right part numbers. can anyone confirm with the given codes?

[jacobsen]

I saw a video of the gears inside and it appears they get locked up, so the flap won't even move at all.

I'm just gonna replace them. GAP has them for cheap enough. hoping I have the right part numbers. can anyone confirm with the given codes?
I can't confirm the part numbers unfortunately, wish I could help you. Mine open maybe a quarter of the way Kama that's why I'm wondering if wind or vacuum helps open them.

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[gilber33]

Can I eliminate this air box thing that's associated with the diverter valve? Doing a fmic install and would like to remove it.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv213/gilber33/20160816_113323_zpsof12rlvw.jpg (http://s685.photobucket.com/user/gilber33/media/20160816_113323_zpsof12rlvw.jpg.html)

[texasboy21]

Can I eliminate this air box thing that's associated with the diverter valve? Doing a fmic install and would like to remove it.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv213/gilber33/20160816_113323_zpsof12rlvw.jpg (http://s685.photobucket.com/user/gilber33/media/20160816_113323_zpsof12rlvw.jpg.html)

Yes, its a resonator to simulate the volume of the DSMIC the B6 1.8T has in other countries. [up]

[jacobsen]

Can I eliminate this air box thing that's associated with the diverter valve? Doing a fmic install and would like to remove it.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv213/gilber33/20160816_113323_zpsof12rlvw.jpg (http://s685.photobucket.com/user/gilber33/media/20160816_113323_zpsof12rlvw.jpg.html)
If you're going bigger you can keep or remove the stock resonator it's up to you.

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[gilber33]

Thank you for the quick replies. Going just a little bigger.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv213/gilber33/Audi%20A4%20Avant/20160816_122253_zpswaedmrls.jpg (http://s685.photobucket.com/user/gilber33/media/Audi%20A4%20Avant/20160816_122253_zpswaedmrls.jpg.html)

[jacobsen]

Thank you for the quick replies. Going just a little bigger.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv213/gilber33/Audi%20A4%20Avant/20160816_122253_zpswaedmrls.jpg (http://s685.photobucket.com/user/gilber33/media/Audi%20A4%20Avant/20160816_122253_zpswaedmrls.jpg.html)
What brand intercooler?

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[jpulll]

What brand intercooler?

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CTS, how did the pipes fit up for you? I noticed I had to do a lot of shaving and still some of the piping isn't perfect.

[thomastollar]

Found the removal of the resonator above interesting. Did a bit of digging if you are interested.

click here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/484384-Losing-the-Helmholtz)

and

click here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/286740-Autobahn-88-FMIC-is-Fu-ing-Fail/page3) - start at #95

[gilber33]

CTS, how did the pipes fit up for you? I noticed I had to do a lot of shaving and still some of the piping isn't perfect.

I'm a little less than impressed with the fitment of it. I paid about the same price for a FMIC for my 04 Volvo V70R a while ago, and that kit included mandrel bent pipes and excellent instructions.

I had to trim couplers and my pressure sensor from the smic is nowhere close to fitting the adapter plate on the CTS pipe. The hole on the CTS pipe is probably 2x bigger than the sensor itself. I set it in place and shined a flashlight into the pipe and light was coming out in a few places. I have no idea what to do with that.

[hightime80]

I'm a little less than impressed with the fitment of it. I paid about the same price for a FMIC for my 04 Volvo V70R a while ago, and that kit included mandrel bent pipes and excellent instructions.

I had to trim couplers and my pressure sensor from the smic is nowhere close to fitting the adapter plate on the CTS pipe. The hole on the CTS pipe is probably 2x bigger than the sensor itself. I set it in place and shined a flashlight into the pipe and light was coming out in a few places. I have no idea what to do with that.

JB weld? Lol. It might hold if u slop enough of it on.

[jpulll]

I'm a little less than impressed with the fitment of it. I paid about the same price for a FMIC for my 04 Volvo V70R a while ago, and that kit included mandrel bent pipes and excellent instructions.

I had to trim couplers and my pressure sensor from the smic is nowhere close to fitting the adapter plate on the CTS pipe. The hole on the CTS pipe is probably 2x bigger than the sensor itself. I set it in place and shined a flashlight into the pipe and light was coming out in a few places. I have no idea what to do with that.

I don't like the fitment either. they also gave me an intercooler with a pin size hole in the corner. jb welded that. I wish I would have went tread stone and eBay piping....much cheaper and better outcome.

as for the map sensor oring, they should have supplied one. if they forgot to include it, shame on them.

[gilber33]

I don't like the fitment either. they also gave me an intercooler with a pin size hole in the corner. jb welded that. I wish I would have went tread stone and eBay piping....much cheaper and better outcome.

as for the map sensor oring, they should have supplied one. if they forgot to include it, shame on them.

Agreed. If I knew this is how it fit, I would have gone a much different route, but there doesn't seem to be any reviews on it. Maybe I can snap a few pictures and put something together.

How much trimming did you have to do on your bumper?

[jpulll]

Agreed. If I knew this is how it fit, I would have gone a much different route, but there doesn't seem to be any reviews on it. Maybe I can snap a few pictures and put something together.

How much trimming did you have to do on your bumper?

Too much trimming. I wasn't worried about the bumper trimming it was more the amount of trimming inside the engine compartment, and to get the intercooler hoses around the radiator support-which I guess goes with how the fogs fit up, trimming on those too! plus trimming behind the headlight which still isn't perfect. the metal bracket on the headlight is gouging into the piping and soon it's gonna burst.

I guess I found what I'm gonna do today on my day off...worried about the shitty clamps they gave. Hope they didn't rust out.

the intercooler itself is great. I can go on long spirited runs and come home to a cool intake manifold. so I know it's doing its job cooling wise. just the fit-up with the pipes makes the kit not even worth it. you'll have better luck putting the puzzle together of a bunch of piping from eBay.

[Willënskraft]

Does the B7 A4 engine side cover(left) fit our B6 A4?

[gilber33]

Too much trimming. I wasn't worried about the bumper trimming it was more the amount of trimming inside the engine compartment, and to get the intercooler hoses around the radiator support-which I guess goes with how the fogs fit up, trimming on those too! plus trimming behind the headlight which still isn't perfect. the metal bracket on the headlight is gouging into the piping and soon it's gonna burst.

I guess I found what I'm gonna do today on my day off...worried about the shitty clamps they gave. Hope they didn't rust out.

the intercooler itself is great. I can go on long spirited runs and come home to a cool intake manifold. so I know it's doing its job cooling wise. just the fit-up with the pipes makes the kit not even worth it. you'll have better luck putting the puzzle together of a bunch of piping from eBay.

We're you able to fit the fog lights? I'm not seeing how the DS fog lights is going to fit on here. I'm thoroughly disappointed with this kit. I've been working on the bumper for an hour or so. Trimming, test fitting, trimming, etc.

[DarkoNova]

What do you guys use for sun shades? I want a custom one, but I figure I can get a cheap one and just paint something on it. Just looking for something that actually fits our cars, not a generic one-size-fits-most deal...

[MurkyRivers_A4]

What do you guys use for sun shades? I want a custom one, but I figure I can get a cheap one and just paint something on it. Just looking for something that actually fits our cars, not a generic one-size-fits-most deal...
I bought the Audi sunshade for the A3 but my girl didnt like it because you have to roll it and its not a quick fold away one. So i use it in my A4 and love it. Fits perfect!!

[DarkoNova]

I'm assuming the 08 A3 listed in your signature?

I'd like the quick fold up kind, but it'd be harder to paint those, so the standard multi-fold ones would be better. I'll look into the A3 one, thanks.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

The A3 one isnt a fold up. Its a roll up.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160819/f1583a797eeb6d05e39e9284fdbed801.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160819/c53dd0ced9e27cf411e3462e84f061f8.jpg

[seal66]

quick question on the alarm system. When I lock my car sometimes the alarm goes off for no reason. I have tried to unlock/lock, put the key in the ignition and it doesnt shut off till it goes for 15 to 20seconds. Anyway to fix this?

[auditi]

quick question on the alarm system. When I lock my car sometimes the alarm goes off for no reason. I have tried to unlock/lock, put the key in the ignition and it doesnt shut off till it goes for 15 to 20seconds. Anyway to fix this?

To add to the alarm question, it appears my B6 doesn't have an interior motion sensor for the alarm. The middle button on the drivers door also has no icon on it. My B5 had a motion sensor. Was that an option? Anyway to enable the motion sensor with Vag-Com, if it is even there?

[andrew96]

so I've got a concern and scared to face to possibility of the sad truth of a head gasket failure... over the past year I've had a few coolant leaks. replaced t-stat, turbo feed line. rear flange, water pump, then tstat again. had an over heating episode when my water pump failed too... well the car has been starting and shutting off immediately for awhile so i looked in my haines manual and it says could be fuel injectors, fuel pressure or vacuum leak. checked fuel pressure and everything checks out. i also replaced the Crank position sensor behind the oil filter because i read that could be the solution to my car starting and shutting off. then did a compression test and have gotten the following readings.
Cylinder 1~180
2~168
3~150
4~167
even through replacing all those coolant pieces i still have a slow leak but its tough to find the source. scared it could be the head gasket and definitely seems like it could be... any advice?

[eljay]

so I've got a concern and scared to face to possibility of the sad truth of a head gasket failure... over the past year I've had a few coolant leaks. replaced t-stat, turbo feed line. rear flange, water pump, then tstat again. had an over heating episode when my water pump failed too... well the car has been starting and shutting off immediately for awhile so i looked in my haines manual and it says could be fuel injectors, fuel pressure or vacuum leak. checked fuel pressure and everything checks out. i also replaced the Crank position sensor behind the oil filter because i read that could be the solution to my car starting and shutting off. then did a compression test and have gotten the following readings.
Cylinder 1~180
2~168
3~150
4~167
even through replacing all those coolant pieces i still have a slow leak but its tough to find the source. scared it could be the head gasket and definitely seems like it could be... any advice?
You said that you have replaced the rear flange. Have you also replaced the temperature sensor in it with a quality green-top OEM unit? A faulty CTS would exhibit the start and die symptom. Just something to eliminate.
AFAIK, those are pretty good compression numbers for an aged B6.

[old guy]

Google "Combustion Leak Tester". You will get a gazillion hits. You can probable also "rent" the kit from a local Autozone. It's a pretty straight forward test.

[andrew96]

You said that you have replaced the rear flange. Have you also replaced the temperature sensor in it with a quality green-top OEM unit? A faulty CTS would exhibit the start and die symptom. Just something to eliminate.
AFAIK, those are pretty good compression numbers for an aged B6.

I replaced the CTS with one that came with an ECS kit, so not OEM. A reading of 150 is pretty low considering I have one firing at 180...right?

[old guy]

I replaced the CTS with one that came with an ECS kit, so not OEM. A reading of 150 is pretty low considering I have one firing at 180...right?
A compression test really isn't going to help much with a leaking head gasket diagnosis. A leak down test might tell you a little more. You can perform a leak down test with a rubber glove on the coolant reservoir if you don't want to use a compression gas test.

[jonan]

is the intercooler shroud compatible with the s4 front bumper??? i couldn't get it to mount so i'm rolling around without the intercooler shroud right now...

[DarkoNova]

Google "Combustion Leak Tester". You will get a gazillion hits. You can probable also "rent" the kit from a local Autozone. It's a pretty straight forward test.

Yup, when my wife's car was overheating, I rented a combustion tester from autozone (not 100% sure what they call it, though). Used it in the parking lot and instantly knew she had a blown head gasket.

[Willënskraft]

Finished changing the driver's side CV boot today, but got a check engine light when I test drove it. Has this ever happened to anyone? Possible symptoms?


Also, it drives normal though.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160820/9528232fc91e13e3b720097dd734a32d.jpg

[old guy]

I think it's time for you to invest $4.95 in a Torque Pro app so you can check and clear your codes when they happen.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Also, if you disconnect your battery for 5 mins, it will go away. Do that every time it comes on and youll have less to worry about.

[Willënskraft]

I think it's time for you to invest $4.95 in a Torque Pro app so you can check your codes when they happen.

Which bluetooth adapter did you go with?



Also, if you disconnect your battery for 5 mins, it will go away. Do that every time it comes on and you'll have less to worry about.

For real? Or are you playing with my emotions again? [:D]

[old guy]

ELM 327. And yes a battery disconnect will reset your ECM.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Which bluetooth adapter did you go with?




For real? Or are you playing with my emotions again? [:D]
It will work but obviously the preference is to know what the code is for. So dont listen to me, Ive had a few and Im having a little fun.

[old guy]

It will work but obviously the preference is to know what the code is for. So dont listen to me, Ive had a few and Im having a little fun.

I'm right there with you. Time to go pass out.

[Willënskraft]

Thanks guys! Going to disconnect the battery tomorrow to see what happens! [up]

OG, you drinking that bourbon again lol?

[texasboy21]

Thanks guys! Going to disconnect the battery tomorrow to see what happens! [up]

OG, you drinking that bourbon again lol?

The light will go off, and depending on what it is, will likely come back on..

Check the code.

[Willënskraft]

Code is cleared. Now I'm trying to put the passenger side axle back on. Any advice?

EDIT: wheel is turned to the left all the way already

[jacobsen]

Code is cleared. Now I'm trying to put the passenger side axle back on. Any advice?

EDIT: wheel is turned to the left all the way already
What the wheel turned all the way to the left it should slip in nicely. Grease the spline and the bearing receptacle a bit. Getting the xzn/ triple square screws in is easy on that side.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Willënskraft]

Thanks! Sprayed some WD40 and used a hammer and got it in. Have to wait til tomorrow morning to tighten the axle bolt.

[jacobsen]

Thanks! Sprayed some WD40 and used a hammer and got it in. Have to wait til tomorrow morning to tighten the axle bolt.
150 ft lb and a 180 degree turn iirc

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[Willënskraft]

150 ft lb and a 180 degree turn iirc


Yup

[123lilc]

I have a 2002 1.8T Quattro M/T with an AMB so my question is do i have VVT?

[MurkyRivers_A4]

I have a 2002 1.8T Quattro M/T with an AMB so my question is do i have VVT?
You do but its nothing like Toyota VVT or honda VTEC. Its only for emissions and fuel economy.

[MATT.WIGOFF]

Have any of you ziners had to resurface or replace your flywheel in the career of owning your a4? I think mine needs to be resurfaced or be replaced because of a bad rattle from the gearbox when engaging gears at 3500 to 4000 rpms

[gilber33]

Could a completely out of whack alignment trigger the esp light? Replaced the front control arms and tie rods, alignment is way off. Driving to work this morning the esp light flashed a couple times and then stayed on for the last 10 mins or so of the drive. Wiped down the sensors when I removed everything. I had the entire knuckle out.

[fR3ZNO]

I would seriously doubt it. Have you checked what the code is for?


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[andrew96]

Will S4 B6 roof racks fit on a B6 A4? they should right?

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Will S4 B6 roof racks fit on a B6 A4? they should right?

Yes, its the same car.

[Let it snow]

Could a completely out of whack alignment trigger the esp light? Replaced the front control arms and tie rods, alignment is way off. Driving to work this morning the esp light flashed a couple times and then stayed on for the last 10 mins or so of the drive. Wiped down the sensors when I removed everything. I had the entire knuckle out.

Is your steering wheel way off center now? I think the steering angle sensor is part of the ESP.

[Pr1ce]

Could a completely out of whack alignment trigger the esp light? Replaced the front control arms and tie rods, alignment is way off. Driving to work this morning the esp light flashed a couple times and then stayed on for the last 10 mins or so of the drive. Wiped down the sensors when I removed everything. I had the entire knuckle out.


Is your steering wheel way off center now? I think the steering angle sensor is part of the ESP.


Yes it all.... I had done my tie rods and control arms and had to make some adjustments to make the esp go off.

Def would recommend and alignment asap once completed

[gilber33]

To confirm, the car being out of alignment can trigger the esp light. Got an alignment and it went away.

[jpulll]

Does the upstream/primary o2 sensor have a 2-4 volt or 1-2 volt signal. Autozone/o'reilleys says the Bosch 17014 is a 2-4 V while Summit Racing has it listed as a 1-2 V.

[a1rh3adSz]

hey i wanted to know is there something missing here? like a vac line or something. Its right next to the firewall and its from the coolant hard pipe.
or is just a mark to let you know where the rubber hose to stop ????

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v720/lloydbanks951/IMG_2632_1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lloydbanks951/media/IMG_2632_1.jpg.html)

[jonan]

i believe it's just a little piece of metal that keeps you from putting the hose on any further...i think it connects to the coolant flange on the back of the motor...it was a bitch to replace, even with my intake manifold off...

[DarkoNova]

So I saw in another thread that, I think old_guy or diagnosticator said putting a Mann ProVent 200 on the 3.0's pcv system was a huge benefit to keeping the insides of the intake and engine clean.

Im probably gonna get one, just curious how to install it. Has anybody done it?

[jacobsen]

So I saw in another thread that, I think old_guy or diagnosticator said putting a Mann ProVent 200 on the 3.0's pcv system was a huge benefit to keeping the insides of the intake and engine clean.

Im probably gonna get one, just curious how to install it. Has anybody done it?
I don't use a pro vent and my 1.8 is clean as a whistle inside and the intake manifold is super duper clean. I run motul 8100 x-cess with Mahle OC 105 filter. If you're having trouble with Coke build up, you're not using the right kind of oil and filter and/or your oil change interval is too big.

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[Willënskraft]

What is this?


http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160823/5f038a4cfd0c587bfd48dec1e6d36f63.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160823/c333f3fac9e38e310874457ec9fa8c02.jpg

[a4audi4fun]

@Willënskraft - where did you find this bit? Could it be a stop from the sunroof?

[Willënskraft]

@Willënskraft - where did you find this bit? Could it be a stop from the sunroof?

I found it in front of the car, then looked around and found another one in my neighbor's side. It's made of plastic though. Might be from when I was changing the CV boots, but not certain if it is.

[DJHoro]

Gonna be changing front sway bar bushings with new oem ones. Do these bushing need any grease or do I install them dry?

[jacobsen]

Green grease or permatex ceramic brake grease is the key. Both are water repellent and last a long time.

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[DarkoNova]

I don't use a pro vent and my 1.8 is clean as a whistle inside and the intake manifold is super duper clean. I run motul 8100 x-cess with Mahle OC 105 filter. If you're having trouble with Coke build up, you're not using the right kind of oil and filter and/or your oil change interval is too big.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I don't know what the inside of my engine looks like, but I'll at least know what the intake looks like when I pull it next week. I just figure, for $100 or so, it's cheap insurance.

I use Mobil 1 0w-40 full synthetic, with I think a Bosch filter. Not 100% sure on the filter, though. That should be good enough to keep it clean, I just figure a one time purchase with a new filter every 50,000 miles or so couldn't really hurt anything.

[jacobsen]

I don't know what the inside of my engine looks like, but I'll at least know what the intake looks like when I pull it next week. I just figure, for $100 or so, it's cheap insurance.

I use Mobil 1 0w-40 full synthetic, with I think a Bosch filter. Not 100% sure on the filter, though. That should be good enough to keep it clean, I just figure a one time purchase with a new filter every 50,000 miles or so couldn't really hurt anything.
To be honest, it's more about water vapor in my opinion. Short trips can cause water vapor in your intake tract and that can build up in your crankcase. It's normal to have oil flying around in your intake. I almost believe that having oil going around in your intake keeps it clean, there's a lot of detergent in oil. The 1.8 is really clean on the inside if you ask me, naturally aspirated cars tend to have a black Coke coating around the inside of the intake manifolds, at least the ones I've seen. I guess I can't speak for everyone. If I were you I would use the oil and filter I'm using. But I'm not here to tell you what to do. I think that a hundred bucks for that provent 200 and I'm not sure if there's a bigger 300 or what... But $100 is a great price for that. I looked at them and I considered buying one myself what the best price I could find was like $250. There's a little bit of an issue as to where to drain the collection, where would you drain it to? It's got to go back to the crankcase and I think I saw someone said they were going to weld a nipple on to the metal portion of their dipstick tube. That seems like a good idea. Otherwise you may need a separate catch can or drain it to another container. if you look into this thing, there's a one-way valve you can buy to help drain it and prevent reverse Flow coming up the drain. I believe these are standard equipment on the TDI Motors? And if you think about it you wouldn't need to weld anything onto the dipstick tube, you could drill a hole and J-B weld that sucker on. You just wouldn't want to get metal shavings in your sump, well it wouldn't be the end of the world because it's before the filter. I guess all this talk means I'm interested in this too. Normally the conversation goes to pointing out all the benefits of the thing and ends with something like all that really doesn't matter in the end.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Willënskraft]

Is the XZN special tool necessary for an 02 A4 1.8T Quattro? Any other tools needed?

[jacobsen]

Is the XZN special tool necessary for an 02 A4 1.8T Quattro? Any other tools needed?
A set of xzn AKA triple square sockets, a set of metric Allen sockets and a set of Torx sockets.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Willënskraft]

A set of xzn AKA triple square sockets, a set of metric Allen sockets and a set of Torx sockets.


Oops let me clarify, it's for the transmission fluid and filter change.

[DarkoNova]

To be honest, it's more about water vapor in my opinion. Short trips can cause water vapor in your intake tract and that can build up in your crankcase. It's normal to have oil flying around in your intake. I almost believe that having oil going around in your intake keeps it clean, there's a lot of detergent in oil. The 1.8 is really clean on the inside if you ask me, naturally aspirated cars tend to have a black Coke coating around the inside of the intake manifolds, at least the ones I've seen. I guess I can't speak for everyone. If I were you I would use the oil and filter I'm using. But I'm not here to tell you what to do. I think that a hundred bucks for that provent 200 and I'm not sure if there's a bigger 300 or what... But $100 is a great price for that. I looked at them and I considered buying one myself what the best price I could find was like $250. There's a little bit of an issue as to where to drain the collection, where would you drain it to? It's got to go back to the crankcase and I think I saw someone said they were going to weld a nipple on to the metal portion of their dipstick tube. That seems like a good idea. Otherwise you may need a separate catch can or drain it to another container. if you look into this thing, there's a one-way valve you can buy to help drain it and prevent reverse Flow coming up the drain. I believe these are standard equipment on the TDI Motors? And if you think about it you wouldn't need to weld anything onto the dipstick tube, you could drill a hole and J-B weld that sucker on. You just wouldn't want to get metal shavings in your sump, well it wouldn't be the end of the world because it's before the filter. I guess all this talk means I'm interested in this too. Normally the conversation goes to pointing out all the benefits of the thing and ends with something like all that really doesn't matter in the end.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Lol, yeah, basically. I googled and found a couple threads that mention it, but nobody's installed it, I guess.

Maybe I'll be the first?

[a1rh3adSz]

is it possible to remove and install the rear coolant flange without needed to remove anything or maybe just a few parts that is in the way of the flange??

also i just did a t-stat job with new coolant. When doing the coolant flange will coolant be lost? or do i need to drain the coolant?? dont want to waste fresh coolant.

[eljay]

is it possible to remove and install the rear coolant flange without needed to remove anything or maybe just a few parts that is in the way of the flange??

also i just did a t-stat job with new coolant. When doing the coolant flange will coolant be lost? or do i need to drain the coolant?? dont want to waste fresh coolant.
Yep!
Take a look at my thread where I asked exactly the same question and OG helped me out:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=681702

[fR3ZNO]

So, I swapped my rear door shell yesterday. What I thought was strange that both my old door and replacement door had a piece of duct tape on the top edge to hold the vapor barrier. Looking at the DIY for rear window regulator, the door in the pics has duct tape in the same spot. I can't believe that the duct tape was done from the factory....


Here's a view of the door.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg195/rtucay/DIY/rear%20window%20regulator/IMG_2753.jpg

So, does anyone else have duct tape on their door?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[OttawaWill]

So, I swapped my rear door shell yesterday. What I thought was strange that both my old door and replacement door had a piece of duct tape on the top edge to hold the vapor barrier. Looking at the DIY for rear window regulator, the door in the pics has duct tape in the same spot. I can't believe that the duct tape was done from the factory....



So, does anyone else have duct tape on their door?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last regulator I responded I noticed the acne thing. I just assumed it was repairs completed by PO.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[Willënskraft]

So, does anyone else have duct tape on their door?


slowly raises hand*

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160824/a5dc211f93c7128124a32e33743534e3.jpg

[eljay]

I searched around for a bit, but still find the definitive answer elusive. So, here comes my question of the day:
What size FMIC do I need to squeeze it behind my USP bumper without trimming?

I am looking for a budget setup to replace stock SMIC and some weird custom pipe that the previous owner added, which bypasses the stock pipe in the front support structure.

FYI, I have the GTRS Eliminator kit on the car and no plans to change that.

Thanks!

[texasboy21]

I searched around for a bit, but still find the definitive answer elusive. So, here comes my question of the day:
What size FMIC do I need to squeeze it behind my USP bumper without trimming?

I am looking for a budget setup to replace stock SMIC and some weird custom pipe that the previous owner added, which bypasses the stock pipe in the front support structure.

FYI, I have the GTRS Eliminator kit on the car and no plans to change that.

Thanks!

Not sure about the gap between the condenser and the lower valance, but if the core is over about 6-7" tall it will have to be 2.25" or thinner to fit between the condenser and rebar.

[fR3ZNO]

Does anyone else who's running the 034 RSB have issues with the end link to sway bar bolts loosening? Last time I put them I used blue loctite and torqued to spec. Got underneath today and noticed they were loose again. Put blue loctite on again, but tightened until I felt it was gütentite.

I was thinking of going to red loctite if they back out again or possibly a mechanical means of fastener locking.



slowly raises hand*

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160824/a5dc211f93c7128124a32e33743534e3.jpg


Last regulator I responded I noticed the acne thing. I just assumed it was repairs completed by PO.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Hmm interesting. I find it hard to believe that it would come from the factory that way, but it's also a coincidence that these all have duct tape in the same spot. I don't see the need for it either? My vapor barrier wasn't falling down or anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[G.AUDI]

Does anyone else who's running the 034 RSB have issues with the end link to sway bar bolts loosening? Last time I put them I used blue loctite and torqued to spec. Got underneath today and noticed they were loose again. Put blue loctite on again, but tightened until I felt it was gütentite.

I was thinking of going to red loctite if they back out again or possibly a mechanical means of fastener locking.






Hmm interesting. I find it hard to believe that it would come from the factory that way, but it's also a coincidence that these all have duct tape in the same spot. I don't see the need for it either? My vapor barrier wasn't falling down or anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Stock end links or the 034 ones?


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[Axis]

So, I swapped my rear door shell yesterday. What I thought was strange that both my old door and replacement door had a piece of duct tape on the top edge to hold the vapor barrier. Looking at the DIY for rear window regulator, the door in the pics has duct tape in the same spot. I can't believe that the duct tape was done from the factory....



So, does anyone else have duct tape on their door?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All B6-B7 owners do. They came out of the plant like that.

[fR3ZNO]

Stock end links or the 034 ones?


Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Stock.

All B6-B7 owners do. They came out of the plant like that.
No way. That's surprising.

[alimo20]

hey guys - a fitment question for those with the 034 motorsports silicone breather kit for early (2002) 1.8t's. is there another checkvalve/hose between the PCV billet and the s-shaped hose? i am having a very hard time fitting it over the suction jet pump nipple.

this part:
058103221E - S-Shape Breather Hose - Qty: 1 - Item 10 on diagram 1 - on this post (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385540-Engine-Strengthening-by-a4darkness?p=6428271&viewfull=1#post6428271)

i am currently trying to fit that part directly onto the left angled nipple of the suction pump and im pretty sure there was an intermediate portion.

[thomastollar]

Alimo,

not sure if have already read this thread (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/457838-034-Motorsport-Breather-Kit-Review), but it helped me, especially the photos of how the 034 hoses are supposed to be installed.

Also, if the fitment is way off then probably something is wrong, but if close have you tried a little bit of dish soap, or chap-stick (some type of lube) to help the hose slide on a bit more easily (I have also heard of people using a heat gun to warm the hose up)?

[fR3ZNO]

Silicone spray is a good hose lube as well


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[alimo20]

ah lessons in life - when something isn't fitting right.. lube it up! heh.

[eljay]

Not sure about the gap between the condenser and the lower valance, but if the core is over about 6-7" tall it will have to be 2.25" or thinner to fit between the condenser and rebar.
Thanks. After some more reading, I think I will try to find a Treadstone TR6 and grab an eBay-special piping kit. But those are hit and miss when it comes to getting the right diameter. The TR6 has 2.5" in/out while most pipe kits are 2". Hmm...

[texasboy21]

Thanks. After some more reading, I think I will try to find a Treadstone TR6 and grab an eBay-special piping kit. But those are hit and miss when it comes to getting the right diameter. The TR6 has 2.5" in/out while most pipe kits are 2". Hmm...

Reducing coupler.

[my1stturbo]

245/40 18s with coloured at about 25 1/4 all around problematic? Rim offset is correct I believe.

[Axis]

Changing the oring on my injectors and noticed a crack on the injector seat, couldn't find a part number for those.

Anyone knows the part number or an alternative solution?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160828/cec1e1ed0a5b8fb810c2762d1c59f841.jpg

[jpulll]

Changing the oring on my injectors and noticed a crack on the injector seat, couldn't find a part number for those.

Anyone knows the part number or an alternative solution?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160828/cec1e1ed0a5b8fb810c2762d1c59f841.jpg

if you're talking about the brown part on the injector itself, you either need a new injector or you need to send the injector to be rebuilt. went through the same thing awhile ago. if it's the stock injector i have the one that i bought new. i can sell to you. PM if interested.

[evo_ski]

You can replace those. I had the same thing happen to me. Jhm sells them. S4 pintle caps. Very cheap and fit perfectly. They look a little different but work exactly the same.

[Axis]

You can replace those. I had the same thing happen to me. Jhm sells them. S4 pintle caps. Very cheap and fit perfectly. They look a little different but work exactly the same.

Ty

[gilber33]

Is this the correct crush washer for the oil feed fitting on the turbo:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Turbocharger/Hardware/ES9886/

ECS' page says it seals the oil return line/adapter to the turbochargert. But the ko3 oil return has a gasket, so I'm assuming it's for the feed. I didn't replace it when I replaced the turbo and I think it is leaking a little bit.

Thanks

[jacobsen]

Is this the correct crush washer for the oil feed fitting on the turbo:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Turbocharger/Hardware/ES9886/

ECS' page says it seals the oil return line/adapter to the turbochargert. But the ko3 oil return has a gasket, so I'm assuming it's for the feed. I didn't replace it when I replaced the turbo and I think it is leaking a little bit.

Thanks
That will probably be the Crush Washer you need for the feed line attachment at the oil filter housing. Maybe on a different car it would connect the drain. One thing you want to be super careful about is that the aluminum alloy the oil filter housing is made out of is very soft. The threads for the banjo bolt feed line are very soft and will cross thread or role very easily. The banjo bolt is quite hard in comparison to the orifice it screws into, so I would lubricate the banjo bolt and work it in and out by hand to make sure it turns freely within the threads while lining up the feed line like it supposed to before I tighten it down. The threads in the oil filter housing for the oil feed banjo bolt are so soft I hope you did not damage them or cross thread them when you reinstalled the turbo feed line. I would have thought the crush washers would have been able to be reused because of that fact. I could be wrong... But if there's any damage to those threads I imagine you will have to JB Weld that banjo bolt in there or use some PTFE tape or some Loctite or some other kind of sealant. When I replaced my oil feed line as a cautionary step when installing a new Turbo I cross threaded the first two threads in the oil filter housing. After that happened it was very difficult to line that banjo bolt up correctly, even after I test fitted the banjo bolt by hand. If you do cross thread those things which like I said I did by hand even... The crumbling shavings of the threads can get sucked up and pushed into the turbo.

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[gilber33]

That will probably be the Crush Washer you need for the feed line attachment at the oil filter housing. Maybe on a different car it would connect the drain. One thing you want to be super careful about is that the aluminum alloy the oil filter housing is made out of is very soft. The threads for the banjo bolt feed line are very soft and will cross thread or role very easily. The banjo bolt is quite hard in comparison to the orifice it screws into, so I would lubricate the banjo bolt and work it in and out by hand to make sure it turns freely within the threads while lining up the feed line like it supposed to before I tighten it down. The threads in the oil filter housing for the oil feed banjo bolt are so soft I hope you did not damage them or cross thread them when you reinstalled the turbo feed line. I would have thought the crush washers would have been able to be reused because of that fact. I could be wrong... But if there's any damage to those threads I imagine you will have to JB Weld that banjo bolt in there or use some PTFE tape or some Loctite or some other kind of sealant. When I replaced my oil feed line as a cautionary step when installing a new Turbo I cross threaded the first two threads in the oil filter housing. After that happened it was very difficult to line that banjo bolt up correctly, even after I test fitted the banjo bolt by hand. If you do cross thread those things which like I said I did by hand even... The crumbling shavings of the threads can get sucked up and pushed into the turbo.

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The feed at the filter housing is fine, I'm talking about at the turbo itself. It appears to be leaking at the adapter fitting where it screws into the turbo.

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv213/gilber33/20160827_115450_zpsdsfwcmcn.jpg (http://s685.photobucket.com/user/gilber33/media/20160827_115450_zpsdsfwcmcn.jpg.html)

[jacobsen]

The feed at the filter housing is fine, I'm talking about at the turbo itself. It appears to be leaking at the adapter fitting where it screws into the turbo.
Oh I'm sorry. Yes there is a Crush Washer at the turbo feed at the turbo. It goes between the little AN fitting and the Turbo itself. So in order it goes Crush Washer, fitting, feed line.

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[gilber33]

Oh I'm sorry. Yes there is a Crush Washer at the turbo feed at the turbo. It goes between the little AN fitting and the Turbo itself. So in order it goes Crush Washer, fitting, feed line.

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I know there's one there, I'm just trying to figure out if the one I linked is the correct one and ecs just mislabeled it. Since they're calling it the oil return seal when the b6 doesn't have a oil return that uses a crush washer. I reused mine when I transfered that fitting from the old turbo to the new one, and I don't think it's sealing anymore.

Hey, we'll get there eventually. Lol

[old guy]

I know there's one there, I'm just trying to figure out if the one I linked is the correct one and ecs just mislabeled it. Since they're calling it the oil return seal when the b6 doesn't have a oil return that uses a crush washer. I reused mine when I transfered that fitting from the old turbo to the new one, and I don't think it's sealing anymore.


As you noted it's not a crush washer. It's a soft metal washer that is designed to deform slightly to form a good seal. You can reuse the washer by first making sure that both surfaces are flat and smooth. Easy to do with a flat surface and some fine grit sandpaper.

http://i66.tinypic.com/4ryvsh.jpg

[gilber33]

Yeah, a copper crush washer. Used them lots of times and always just get new. But need the size.

[jacobsen]

Yeah, a copper crush washer. Used them lots of times and always just get new. But need the size.
I just had a brainwave. I tried to do what OG is saying but it didn't work out for me and I had to buy a new one for the coolant line and the oil line fitting. Off the top of my head I'm not sure if that's the right size or not, I know that the fittings are different sizes on the connection for the oil and coolant but I think they're the same size going into the turbo? I guess I'm not helping, maybe I am pointing that out.

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[gilber33]

I just had a brainwave. I tried to do what OG is saying but it didn't work out for me and I had to buy a new one for the coolant line and the oil line fitting. Off the top of my head I'm not sure if that's the right size or not, I know that the fittings are different sizes on the connection for the oil and coolant but I think they're the same size going into the turbo? I guess I'm not helping, maybe I am pointing that out.

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I've tried that before too and it doesn't always work. I know you can heat up the copper crush washers to a point where they re-soften, or something super sciencey. But when they're $1 each, it's easier to get new ones.

Is there an Audi site that has dealer type breakdowns of systems with part numbers? I know there are a couple sites like that for Volvo when I had them.

[old guy]

Clicky click (http://etka.cc/audi/part_single/catalog/au/markt/USA/modell/A4/year/2003/drive_standart/249/hg_ug/145/subcategory/145060/part_id/250973/lang/e)®

http://etka.cc/files/img/Bilder/157/157145500.png

[jacobsen]

I've tried that before too and it doesn't always work. I know you can heat up the copper crush washers to a point where they re-soften, or something super sciencey. But when they're $1 each, it's easier to get new ones.

Is there an Audi site that has dealer type breakdowns of systems with part numbers? I know there are a couple sites like that for Volvo when I had them.
Annealing is the term for that. There is a site like that and there is also a ETKA and Elsawin. Those are programs you have to run from your computer. If you want to run them on a modern computer that you have to run an emulator. ECS should be able to list that part, if you go to Turbo and you look at the k04 kit Lowe's sealing washers come with it. It should be in the list there somewhere.

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[thomastollar]

Hey All,

are the N112 valve and N249 valve the same part?

[eljay]

Hey All,

are the N112 valve and N249 valve the same part?
Nope. See here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/681885-What-hose-am-I-missing-here?p=11253669&viewfull=1#post11253669).

[MetalMan]

Nope. See here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/681885-What-hose-am-I-missing-here?p=11253669&viewfull=1#post11253669).

Hey All,

are the N112 valve and N249 valve the same part?

I think they're the same part number. Or at least ECS Tuning suggests this to be the case.
The B5 appears to use the same part number valve as the B6, and I can confirm at least on the B5 that the N112 and N249 valves are interchangeable.

[thomastollar]

cool thanks,

was not able to find the n112 except as 'EGR Valve Control Solenoid' # 026906283J, whereas n249 is readily labeled as 'n249 Solenoid Valve' # 026906283J.

Wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts or experience.

[old guy]

cool thanks,

was not able to find the n112 except as 'EGR Valve Control Solenoid' # 026906283J, whereas n249 is readily labeled as 'n249 Solenoid Valve' # 026906283J.

Wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts or experience.

Same solenoid valve. Different applications.

[Axis]

Is there a way to remove the interior instrument retrolightning like it is in the B7's?

I would like them to only turn on when I turn my lights on.

Edit :

17-Instruments: K1 -- KWP-1281
VCDS Works fine.

Tweak:
There are four lighting modes:
Mode 0: Nothing lit until ext. light on
Mode 1: Pointers lit all the time
Mode 2: Scales lit all the time
Mode 3: Pointers and Scales lit all the time
Mode is changed in Adapation Channel 19. Standard value should be 11000 (or something close). The first (left-most) digit is the lighting mode.

Wanted it this way so that the RNS-E doesnt put the screen in night mode all the time.

Edit II: Wont work on a car with headlights coded to Canada. They need to be coded ROW

[andrew96]

looking for some quick advice. My fans are both continuously running while my car is off. i have to disconnect my battery to turn them off to keep my battery from dying. I read up on this thread among others.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/325439-Radiator-Fan-Wont-Turn-Off
followed advice to check the Relay 219 and decided i should replace that to at least cross it out. replaced that relay but still have the same issue. talked to an audi specialist and they said more times then not its the FCM.

seems the remedies could either be
relay 219
faulty CTS
faulty FCM

I've heard you should replace fans when replacing FCM, making its a $500+ in parts. Any advice?

[Willënskraft]

For those who changed their differential fluid. Any difference in performance or drivability?

[jacobsen]

For those who changed their differential fluid. Any difference in performance or drivability?
Maybe slightly better roll and shifting, didn't notice a big difference.

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[customa4]

I didn't notice much difference but I knew it was the right thing to do. [:D] The Apikol rear diff mount made a nice difference though.

[jacobsen]

I did motul gear 300.

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[123lilc]

Whenever i have the temp set to heat the middle vents do not work if i have the foot setting on but when i turn the foot setting off the middle vents start to work. but when the temp is cold it works like its supposed to. am i the only one?

how can i fix this?

[jacobsen]

Whenever i have the temp set to heat the middle vents do not work if i have the foot setting on but when i turn the foot setting off the middle vents start to work. but when the temp is cold it works lik its supposed to. am i the only one?
HVAC valves

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[123lilc]

HVAC valves

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what about them?

[jacobsen]

what about them?
Sounds like they're stuck.

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[123lilc]

Sounds like they're stuck.

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but how come it only wont work with the heat on. becouse it works with the temp set to cold

[DarkoNova]

So I pulled my intake manifold to fix a coolant leak and do a bunch of other stuff.

I'm used to disconnecting the battery when I'm doing big jobs, so I pulled the negative cable.

I put it back on so I could lock my car for the night and now my key fob doesn't work. Im guessing I need to re-pair it with the car. Is there a way to do that without vcds?

[customa4]

So I pulled my intake manifold to fix a coolant leak and do a bunch of other stuff.

I'm used to disconnecting the battery when I'm doing big jobs, so I pulled the negative cable.

I put it back on so I could lock my car for the night and now my key fob doesn't work. Im guessing I need to re-pair it with the car. Is there a way to do that without vcds?

Click (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/428047-How-to-program-your-Audi-flip-key-fob)

[DarkoNova]

Click (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/428047-How-to-program-your-Audi-flip-key-fob)

Thanks!

[DarkoNova]

So I got my key working again, but if I try to use my key to roll the windows up or down, it doesn't work. I used to be able to put the key in the door and turn it one way or the other and the windows would go up or down.

I tried googling, but all I really found was how to enable it if your car never had it. My car already had it, so do I still need vcds to re-enable it?

[a4audi4fun]

You said you disconnected the battery while doing your maintenance, so it's quite possible the settings returned to default factory. Will need VCDS to make those changes again.