questions you thought were too dumb to ask

[old guy]

Bottom hose is Supply. Top hose is return.

[daught]

Does any one have a link to with vid showing valve cover gasket inatall on a 08 a4. And if possible any input on gasket sealer would help as well. Thanks for any input
This has a very extensive sealer discussion.

advrider.com/index.php?threads/re-sealing-the-ktm-lc4-rocker-cover-a-guide.112127

I used Hondabond for many years with success but lately I switched to loctite 518. Way easier to apply, no risk of pieces falling in the engine and easier to clean up.

[andrew96]

That's actually a really good price. Does it happen to be an Interstate battery? I remember when I called a while back the dealer said they had Interstate. I don't believe the original was an Interstate battery but Interstate is still a great battery. Just curious.

I was pleasantly surprised to hear it was only 130. When I initially looked up comparable better us with our cars one came up for $225, definitely scared me a bit. I just looked at the battery and I couldn't find any indication of it being an interstate battery. It does say Volkswagon original battery, however.

[JAudi23]

This would be my best guess, but must have been from the previous owner. I am currently running water in mine, so I don't have to worry about spillage when I swap this in. I do plan to fully drain the system, hoses included before hooking it all backup again. [:D]
So I swapped in the replacement headlight washer pump today. How can I test it to see if it actually works?

The manual says it's only activated when:
- headlights are on
- hold the washer lever for longer then one second.

I also thought I read somewhere that it only worked when the temperature is "cold".

I am trying to figure out if replacing the pump fixed the system or if the washer jets are also broken?

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

[ADCS]

Does anyone know if the 3.0 and 1.8t rad/ac fans are the same? They look very similar to me. The smaller of the 2 fans from the 3.0 rad support/fan assembly I was planning to use for a 2.7 swap sounds rough so I want to swap them. Looks like a bit of a pain to do so I figured I would ask before tackling it.

[thomastollar]

Car runs very well upon start-up and drive, but once the motor is hot the exhaust seems 'growl' and vibrate a bit when the throttle is disengaged....nothing crazy, but it is noticeable. I checked manifold/turbo/cat/exhaust with no visible leaks.

[mosnet99]

Bk6re spark plug. If you don't gap them to .32 and throw them in will they cause misfires?

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[jacobsen]

Bk6re spark plug. If you don't gap them to .32 and throw them in will they cause misfires?

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Probably not, mileage will suffor and throttle response will increase the shorter the gap. Careful not to damage the electrode.

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[alimo20]

i have had a timing belt, idler pulley, s-belt and water pump sitting in a box in closet for the last 3 years. is it worth it for me to get a new kit or do you think the shelf life of these components are not sensitive?

[old guy]

i have had a timing belt, idler pulley, s-belt and water pump sitting in a box in closet for the last 3 years. is it worth it for me to get a new kit or do you think the shelf life of these components are not sensitive?

They will be fine.

[old guy]

Bk6re spark plug. If you don't gap them to .32 and throw them in will they cause misfires?

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

They come pre gapped to .8mm (.0315". As long as you didn't drop them they should be fine.

[old guy]

So I swapped in the replacement headlight washer pump today. How can I test it to see if it actually works?

The manual says it's only activated when:
- headlights are on
- hold the washer lever for longer then one second.

I also thought I read somewhere that it only worked when the temperature is "cold".

I am trying to figure out if replacing the pump fixed the system or if the washer jets are also broken?

No need for cold temperature.

[JAudi23]

Thanks old guy,

I was able to test them out today, and all systems go. (It was below 5 Celsius this morning when tried and noticed them working, but I also tried again this evening at 12 Celsius and they worked as well.)
I have to say, its not as exciting as I had hoped, but glad to have the feature functioning again.

[Luxus Panzer]

I am going to pull the trigger on these spark plugs for my 1.8t APR stage 1

BKR7EIX (2667)

Price: $ 12.74

Specifications:

Thread Size (mm): 14
Thread Reach (mm): 19
Hex Size (mm): 16
Seat Type: Gasket
Resistor Type: Resistor
Projection Type: Projected

Heat Range: 7
Center Electrode Type & Material: Fine Wire Iridium
No. of Ground Electrodes: 1 Ground Electrode
Terminal Type: Solid
Pre-Set Gap: 0.032"
Thread Pitch (mm): 1.25


Heat range 7 and gap .032.....Good to go?

Projected life span = 20 - 40K (Miles) ??

Bumping my dumb question.

[5ktq]

Sounds fine, I run the 6 on stock, people say 7 for chipped.

I think they last longer than that

[jacobsen]

Bumping my dumb question.
Denso is better. Either standard Denso iridium or the iridium racing. I have the iridium racing with r8 coils. It's a super combo. The Denso iridium I replaced had 45k on them and looked awesome.

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[old guy]

Bumping my dumb question.

For a stage 1 tune the -6IX is fine. The -7IX will also work but isn't really required. If you go with the big injector file the -7IX will work a little better if you are banging on it. With either tune the -7IX will make your really cold Canuck starts a little rougher than the -6IX but will be fine as soon as the engine starts to warm up. .032 gap is fine for both.

I have run both and currently use the -7IX with the F21L set-up.

[gilber33]

What's a good asking price for a fully functional rnse unit and what all needs to be removed from the car to sell it? Thinking about selling mine.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

What's a good asking price for a fully functional rnse unit and what all needs to be removed from the car to sell it? Thinking about selling mine.
Depends on condition and depends on who you ask. Those who are looking for one will say low, those who have one will say high.

You'll need the RNS-E, quad lock adapter harness, antenna adapter, and GPS antenna, oh and security code.

I bought mine for 350 with everything, which is a good deal. I think 400 is average.

[gilber33]

Ew. That sounds like a hassle to pull out.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

It isn't. Did your car come with it from the factory?

[gilber33]

It isn't. Did your car come with it from the factory?
Don't know. It was in it when I bought it. But the car was owned by an enthusiast at one point.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Don't know. It was in it when I bought it. But the car was owned by an enthusiast at one point.
Removing it, granted you have the radio keys, would show you just how easy it is to disconnect everything. You can also pop open the fuse cover on the driver side and see if there is a GPS antenna there. They are magnetic and are usually placed on the steel beam for the dash.

[Luxus Panzer]

For a stage 1 tune the -6IX is fine. The -7IX will also work but isn't really required. If you go with the big injector file the -7IX will work a little better if you are banging on it. With either tune the -7IX will make your really cold Canuck starts a little rougher than the -6IX but will be fine as soon as the engine starts to warm up. .032 gap is fine for both.

I have run both and currently use the -7IX with the F21L set-up.

Sweet, thanks.

What do you say reference replacement intervals on the 6/7IX ?

[old guy]

Sweet, thanks.

What do you say reference replacement intervals on the 6/7IX ?

I change them out around 40k miles and they always look like they hav a lot of life left.

[Luxus Panzer]

I change them out around 40k miles and they always look like they hav a lot of life left.

That's 64373.76 KM at approx 20K a year...3+ years.

I can dig it :)

[alimo20]

when replacing the cam seal during a timing belt job, would i expect the cams to move at all? this is in regard to the intake cam on the passenger side of the engine. how would i lock the cams in place without access to a tool?

any other tips appreciated!

[jacobsen]

when replacing the cam seal during a timing belt job, would i expect the cams to move at all? this is in regard to the intake cam on the passenger side of the engine. how would i lock the cams in place without access to a tool?

any other tips appreciated!
The passenger side of the motor is the exhaust side. The cam will not move unless you move it, I did not lock my cams in place. I just remembered not to move them or play with them. You may find that when you install the timing belt the cam and crankshaft might have to move just ever-so-slightly to line up properly. They say that the timing belt does not stretch or wear because that change intolerance would equate to damaged valves. But I think that there's possibly a very minor amount of stretch, I can't prove this but I did have to wiggle mine a little bit. I used the Gates blue racing belt. When it comes to the seals you just want to make sure that you remove the the cap that goes over the seals. Replace the seals dry making sure the meeting service doesn't Flex or bend or distort. Again make sure there's no oil on the mating surface of the seals or cams. They go on dry. When you replace that cap that goes over those seals make sure you put some RTV gasket on it in the groove. I would say the difficulty in replacing these seals is keeping them straight when replacing the cap.

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[alimo20]

The passenger side of the motor is the exhaust side. The cam will not move unless you move it, I did not lock my cams in place. I just remembered not to move them or play with them. You may find that when you install the timing belt the cam and crankshaft might have to move just ever-so-slightly to line up properly. They say that the timing belt does not stretch or wear because that change intolerance would equate to damaged valves. But I think that there's possibly a very minor amount of stretch, I can't prove this but I did have to wiggle mine a little bit. I used the Gates blue racing belt. When it comes to the seals you just want to make sure that you remove the the cap that goes over the seals. Replace the seals dry making sure the meeting service doesn't Flex or bend or distort. Again make sure there's no oil on the mating surface of the seals or cams. They go on dry. When you replace that cap that goes over those seals make sure you put some RTV gasket on it in the groove. I would say the difficulty in replacing these seals is keeping them straight when replacing the cap.

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there is a cap? is that surrounding the exhaust (correctly this time) cam output shaft?

[jacobsen]

there is a cap? is that surrounding the exhaust (correctly this time) cam output shaft?
I think you're thinking of the black plastic cap that covers the intake cam to control oil splatter. What I'm talking about is the cap that fits over the top of those cam seals that you're talking about. It's like a cam cap. It's one long angular piece that goes over the top of the seals and completes the receptacle that they reside in. It has several screws in it holding it in place.

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[old guy]

jacobsen is referring to the front cam bearing cap. If you remove it the cam seals are a little easier to replace. He mentioned putting the seal in dry. That only applies if you are using the new type PTFE seals. If you are using a standard spring compression seal you should put a thin film of oil on the camshaft before replacing the seal.

My recommendation is to stick with the old style spring compression seal and only change it if it is leaking. I am still using my original OEM spring compression cam seals after 225k+ miles and having removed and replaced the cams four times. As long as you maintain the block breathers properly the block will remain under a slight vacuum and the seals should last the life of the engine.

http://i67.tinypic.com/2uivi37.jpg

[alimo20]

jacobsen is referring to the front cam bearing cap. If you remove it the cam seals are a little easier to replace. He mentioned putting the seal in dry. That only applies if you are using the new type PTFE seals. If you are using a standard spring compression seal you should put a thin film of oil on the camshaft before replacing the seal.

My recommendation is to stick with the old style spring compression seal and only change it if it is leaking. I am still using my original OEM spring compression cam seals after 225k+ miles and having removed and replaced the cams four times. As long as you maintain the block breathers properly the block will remain under a slight vacuum and the seals should last the life of the engine.

http://i67.tinypic.com/2uivi37.jpg

I'm referring to the latter, which is a PTFE seal, between the exhaust-cam-to-spocket. I know it's leaking because I replaced it like an amateur the first time 5 years ago. Trying to redo it without messing it up again.

Though I had followed the proper instructions regarding lubrication, I didn't drive the seal in evenly so it's been crooked.

Can I take the spocket off without fear that timing will change? Would you recommend me loosening the camshaft bolt with the old belt on?

[old guy]

Yes you can remove the sprocket without messing up the timing. Just mark the timing belt to the cam sprocket and crank sprocket. Then make sure the marks line back up when you put the belt back on. Here's an old post worth reading for when you remove your timing belt: Clicky click® (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/156541-Timing-Belt-DIY-amp-Bolt-Question?p=1852960&viewfull=1#post1852960)

[MurkyRivers_A4]

How many wood chucks could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?

[MurkyRivers_A4]

A woodchuck can chuck 361.9237001 cubic centimeters of wood per day. A woodchuck would chuck as much wood as a woodchuck could chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood.
But that still doesn't answer your question. What is the meaning of life!

[5ktq]

The cam sprocket is keyed, right? It must be.

[alimo20]

Yes you can remove the sprocket without messing up the timing. Just mark the timing belt to the cam sprocket and crank sprocket. Then make sure the marks line back up when you put the belt back on. Here's an old post worth reading for when you remove your timing belt: Clicky click® (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/156541-Timing-Belt-DIY-amp-Bolt-Question?p=1852960&viewfull=1#post1852960)

thanks as always OG. thank you jacobson as well.

[Arnie91]

I'm looking at new spare mocal sandwich oil plates. Does anyone know if theres a correct fitting that I need to look for?

Heres an example, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mocal-Sandwich-Block-1-2-Ins-Push-On-Fitting-/122177292109?hash=item1c7255874d:g:UlsAAOSwNRdX~Sm l

[Willënskraft]

Chuck Norris


Sent from the Deathstar

[old guy]

The cam sprocket is keyed, right? It must be.

Yes it is.

https://www.searchlock.com/mirror/p?e=1&h=jQJ/1Il/6WKhMwnVFRr5UA143gNbyl2i4cU6fURDGx6TK5fE/+xVEJ4IQOB3MN9D8ZF+aywAkgezJhsajPkFlHZpM3JptC0eBMN m6A6LQFxuipex/D3+pWOzu4Ws+pl66fFSb0Um6HUaOMD0onImQ0IGXXv7lOPHuB5 nC7kNy3/ahYcINUiWdUaqghHqAvDOfYe0NYozy/Kg5gAEXADiyg==&u=http://assets.suredone.com/1517/media-photos/cp002587-cam-shaft-timing-belt-gear-pulley-18t-00-05-audi-a4-vw-passat-06b-109-111.jpg

[G.AUDI]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161013/a32777a2cd7d2c07c106110e399a4f1a.jpg. Got this after changing oil and oil sensor. There are no leaks and oil level looks fine. Any way to clear this ?

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[jacobsen]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161013/a32777a2cd7d2c07c106110e399a4f1a.jpg. Got this after changing oil and oil sensor. There are no leaks and oil level looks fine. Any way to clear this ?

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Counterfeit brand level sensor? Broken wire/plug to the sensor? Is the dipstick tube oem brand and giving you an accurate reading?

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[DarkoNova]

Coding for symphony II+ with Bose, is it passive or no?

Battery died over the course of the month my car was down with no clutch. Audio just doesn't sound s good as I remember. I checked it with vcds and it's coded for passive speakers.

[G.AUDI]

Counterfeit brand level sensor? Broken wire/plug to the sensor? Is the dipstick tube oem brand and giving you an accurate reading?

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No, I bought the part from Europaparts, provided the VIN and picked up the OEM piece on sale. The wire doesn't appear to be crack or broken nor does the plug. The dipstick is the original and the readings have been consistent each time I've checked. ( Which has been daily since getting this error message.)

[CPAninja]

I just got an Audi.. So, If I burn oil until the point where I need to refill the motor with a quart. Should I still change my oil every 3-4,000 miles? It has a catch can and never gives me any problems, I am just wondering if or how I should go about scheduling oil changes.

[jacobsen]

I just got an Audi.. So, If I burn oil until the point where I need to refill the motor with a quart. Should I still change my oil every 3-4,000 miles? It has a catch can and never gives me any problems, I am just wondering if or how I should go about scheduling oil changes.
5-10k intervals depending on oil and filter choice. Burning oil can almost always be attributed to piston rings, turbo seals and pcv system.

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[gilber33]

Quick question regarding brake fade. I recently installed new ebc red stuff brake pads and I think brembo rotors. I took it easy on them per the manufacturer directions and after about 150 miles did the bed in process. I noticed after about 2 or 3 hard stops I got pretty severe brake fade.

So I did a brake fluid flush with new oem fluid and the brakes felt better. Did some spirited driving today and after a few hard stops, one being from 100 to 50 pretty quickly, the brakes were almost gone and they were incredibly stinky; they were obviously very hot.

Could it be possible that I still have some air in the lines and that's contributing to the fade? But that wouldn't explain the smell. I've never had pads fade like this other than super cheap bosch quiet castes I had on a previous car, but those pads are garbage.

[my1stturbo]

Body coolant lines to oil cooler look to be leaking. Simple as just replacing hoses and clamps or should I look at new cooler too?

[alimo20]

completed replacing timing belt, hand cranked several times and i think im off by 2 teeth. could someone confirm? how would i go about resetting this to the correct position?

http://i63.tinypic.com/288b81s.png

http://i63.tinypic.com/2ng9btv.png

http://i67.tinypic.com/icuw55.png

[fR3ZNO]

Quick question regarding brake fade. I recently installed new ebc red stuff brake pads and I think brembo rotors. I took it easy on them per the manufacturer directions and after about 150 miles did the bed in process. I noticed after about 2 or 3 hard stops I got pretty severe brake fade.

So I did a brake fluid flush with new oem fluid and the brakes felt better. Did some spirited driving today and after a few hard stops, one being from 100 to 50 pretty quickly, the brakes were almost gone and they were incredibly stinky; they were obviously very hot.

Could it be possible that I still have some air in the lines and that's contributing to the fade? But that wouldn't explain the smell. I've never had pads fade like this other than super cheap bosch quiet castes I had on a previous car, but those pads are garbage.

It could also be seized caliper pistons dragging the pads, thus heating up the pads prematurely resulting in fade.

[fR3ZNO]

completed replacing timing belt, hand cranked several times and i think im off by 2 teeth. could someone confirm? how would i go about resetting this to the correct position?


Assuming the marks on the valve cover and cam gear are lined up, yeah looks off to me.

[ADCS]

How does the fuel supply line disconnect from the tank cap?
It is not like the other quick disconnects with the push button. This one has tabs on both sides that seem to push in as well as pull out depending if they are pressed at the top or bottom. Thanks!

http://i67.tinypic.com/2eyx26h.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/oqg6z9.jpg

[Luxus Panzer]

How does the fuel supply line disconnect from the tank cap?
It is not like the other quick disconnects with the push button. This one has tabs on both sides that seem to push in as well as pull out depending if they are pressed at the top or bottom. Thanks!

http://i67.tinypic.com/2eyx26h.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/oqg6z9.jpg


Pro tip, press down on the connector...squeeze the connector..then remove. BTDT.

BTW... Nics Canadian locking ring ;) Mine looked the same (rust) I cleaned it up and sprayed it with Crown rustproofing ;)

I think I used needle nose on one of mine, but it was harry as I was afraid to break the plastic. Be careful.

[gilber33]

It could also be seized caliper pistons dragging the pads, thus heating up the pads prematurely resulting in fade.
I had thought about that, but I would think that if both front calipers are seized to the point that I'm getting brake fade with small amounts of hard braking, I would be smelling brakes after casual drives, especially after the 2+ hour drives I do regularly.

[daught]

completed replacing timing belt, hand cranked several times and i think im off by 2 teeth. could someone confirm? how would i go about resetting this to the correct position?

http://i63.tinypic.com/288b81s.png

http://i63.tinypic.com/2ng9btv.png

http://i67.tinypic.com/icuw55.png
I had a similar issue last week. www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/728518-Crank-and-cam-timing-marks-not-lining-up

Was it like that with the old timing belt?

Take a look at how to count the timing belt teeth http://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-mk1-discussion-9/timing-belt-replacement-writeup-61-pictures-44-steps-1961739

Did you put the belt on counterclockwise? Crank>water pump>camshaft>stretcher

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[alimo20]

I had a similar issue last week. www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/728518-Crank-and-cam-timing-marks-not-lining-up

Was it like that with the old timing belt?

Take a look at how to count the timing belt teeth http://www.audiworld.com/forums/tt-mk1-discussion-9/timing-belt-replacement-writeup-61-pictures-44-steps-1961739

Did you put the belt on counterclockwise? Crank>water pump>camshaft>stretcher

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I transferred the marks from belt to belt, so this may be how it was.. I still think I should find crank TDC with spark plug method, recompress the tensioner and adjust the cam. First I'll count the teeth see if it's 68.. that writeup was for a TT though, the teeth count could be different on an AMB engine.. Thoughts?

[alimo20]

ok i think i have everything lined up but.. since this is my first time doing this alone, i feel like the belt is slipping when i am hand cranking. still stays in TDC and in time with the cams, but the belt feels loose and at some points of the stroke lose tension on the cam to water pump to crank region..

i am assuming i didn't tension properly, but the gap is set to 8mm and doesn't move toward the tensioner piston any further (counter clockwise).. however it does have some travel in the clock-wise direction no matter how much i fiddle with the adjustment. is the tensioner pulley supposed to stay put and not travel in any direction at all when the center nut is torqued down?

[jacobsen]

ok i think i have everything lined up but.. since this is my first time doing this alone, i feel like the belt is slipping when i am hand cranking. still stays in TDC and in time with the cams, but the belt feels loose and at some points of the stroke lose tension on the cam to water pump to crank region..

i am assuming i didn't tension properly, but the gap is set to 8mm and doesn't move toward the tensioner piston any further (counter clockwise).. however it does have some travel in the clock-wise direction no matter how much i fiddle with the adjustment. is the tensioner pulley supposed to stay put and not travel in any direction at all when the center nut is torqued down?
It should never move other than the piston tension.

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[daught]

I transferred the marks from belt to belt, so this may be how it was.. I still think I should find crank TDC with spark plug method, recompress the tensioner and adjust the cam. First I'll count the teeth see if it's 68.. that writeup was for a TT though, the teeth count could be different on an AMB engine.. Thoughts?
Same I posted that thread because it illustrates the count very well.


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[G.AUDI]

In doing the rear coolant flange, draining coolant necessary? I seen diy that drain and one that does not drain. (Although it might have forgotten to include that part)

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[jacobsen]

In doing the rear coolant flange, draining coolant necessary? I seen diy that drain and one that does not drain. (Although it might have forgotten to include that part)

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Whether you like it or not coolant is going to come out of that thing when you take it off. It's up to you if you want to take the extra step and train the rest from the lower radiator sensor

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[G.AUDI]

Oh ok. That's what I figured. Thanks!

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[jacobsen]

Oh ok. That's what I figured. Thanks!

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The sucky part about what you're doing is you're going to let air into the coolant system. Being this close to Winter you better make sure you bleed your coolant system. The hard pipe on top of the intake manifold has a bleed screw and there's a bleed hole on the top heater core hose. Never try to bleed the motor with it warm, make sure it's cold whenever you try to bleed. you can raise the expansion tank to try to add some more water pressure and make the process faster. Do it a couple of times over a week to make sure you don't have a leak bringing in air, leaky head gasket and to make sure you got all the air out. You'll find that the bleaders will burp partial coolant partial air, when it's a solid stream of coolant coming out close the bleeder and consider that one good for the time being. Like I said I recommend checking them again later on.

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[Spike00513]

How do I retrofit upgraded sideview mirrors?

[MurkyRivers_A4]

How do I retrofit upgraded sideview mirrors?
Ya just swap them out. Harness and control modules are needed if you're going auto dim and power fold. Auto dim will not work unless you have the auto dim mirror set up as well.

[G.AUDI]

The sucky part about what you're doing is you're going to let air into the coolant system. Being this close to Winter you better make sure you bleed your coolant system. The hard pipe on top of the intake manifold has a bleed screw and there's a bleed hole on the top heater core hose. Never try to bleed the motor with it warm, make sure it's cold whenever you try to bleed. you can raise the expansion tank to try to add some more water pressure and make the process faster. Do it a couple of times over a week to make sure you don't have a leak bringing in air, leaky head gasket and to make sure you got all the air out. You'll find that the bleaders will burp partial coolant partial air, when it's a solid stream of coolant coming out close the bleeder and consider that one good for the time being. Like I said I recommend checking them again later on.

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Cool thanks for the tip. I replaced the flange about a year or two ago and don't recall having issues with the air in the system. Luckily, being in Socal the winters are not bad here so I won't have to really worry about freezing my ass off. [emoji3] I was wondering if I should attempt to mess with the heater core as well though.

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[Spike00513]

Ya just swap them out. Harness and control modules are needed if you're going auto dim and power fold. Auto dim will not work unless you have the auto dim mirror set up as well.

like how?

kick it off?

[MurkyRivers_A4]

do i just like hit them off with a hammer then duct tape it on
Oh you want instructions. OK.

Remove door panel
Remove triangular plastic piece opposite of the mirror housing
Disconnect harness from the control module.
Remove speaker
Fish harness through
Remove fastener holding mirror housing
Pull harness out.

Reinstall is normally just as easy as removal but not in this case. Trying to get the mirror housing to line up properly while setting the weather striping in the right place is as bitch.

Control modules are attached to the window motors and are usually replaced as a set. Easy enough to get off.

[thomastollar]

like how?

kick it off?

In this case I like the kicking it off idea....seems faster and I think your mirror assembly would be more unique.

[daught]

Meh, when I flushed my coolant I just kept filling the expansion tank to the brim and coolant came out the the vent. No air left.

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[gilber33]

Meh, when I flushed my coolant I just kept filling the expansion tank to the brim and coolant came out the the vent. No air left.

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Same here. I essentially replaced the entire cooling system and never did any special filling or bleeding method. Just filled it up, let it sit, and then put more in. Opened the the vent and some coolant came out and called it good.

[jacobsen]

Meh, when I flushed my coolant I just kept filling the expansion tank to the brim and coolant came out the the vent. No air left.

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There will be air in the system until you open the bleeders.

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[daught]

There will be air in the system until you open the bleeders.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
That's why I said to leave the bleeder open and keep filling the tank.

Other than the top metal pipe bleeder, are there any other other on the 1.8?

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[jacobsen]

That's why I said to leave the bleeder open and keep filling the tank.

Other than the top metal pipe bleeder, are there any other other on the 1.8?

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Top heater core hose

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[usmcvet]

I bought a set of new tail light assemblies online and planned on putting them into my B6 A4. The website says they're supposed to match up with my car, but when I tried putting installing them I found that there were two sets of wires on the new assemblies but only one bundle of wires coming from my car.
Here's the tail light assemblies I got: http://www.spyderauto.com/product.php?mode=cs&id=ALT-YD-AA402-LED-BK&car_make=Audi&car_model=A4&car_year=2005&t=-Audi-A4-02-05-(Does-not-fit-covertible-or-wagon-models)-LED-Tail-Lights-Black
http://www.spyderusa.com/spy/images/700/ALT-YD-AA402-LED-BK.jpg

Can anyone confirm that I was an idiot and got the wrong gear or is there actually a way to install them?

[alimo20]

what is the tubing diameter for the line running from n249 to the DV? would using a wrong diameter tubing cause unintended pressure blow-off?

[jacobsen]

what is the tubing diameter for the line running from n249 to the DV? would using a wrong diameter tubing cause unintended pressure blow-off?
I think 6mm? Lol a small hose with some stretch will do, no adverse effect from size. My port for that thing on the manifold came loose! Not sure how to make it stick again, I'm thinking JB weld.

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[lunder03]

I bought a set of new tail light assemblies online and planned on putting them into my B6 A4. The website says they're supposed to match up with my car, but when I tried putting installing them I found that there were two sets of wires on the new assemblies but only one bundle of wires coming from my car.
Here's the tail light assemblies I got: http://www.spyderauto.com/product.php?mode=cs&id=ALT-YD-AA402-LED-BK&car_make=Audi&car_model=A4&car_year=2005&t=-Audi-A4-02-05-(Does-not-fit-covertible-or-wagon-models)-LED-Tail-Lights-Black
http://www.spyderusa.com/spy/images/700/ALT-YD-AA402-LED-BK.jpg

Can anyone confirm that I was an idiot and got the wrong gear or is there actually a way to install them?
Great news! You're not an idiot...whew...close one. ;-P

I have them on my car, which means i'm no idiot.

Yeah, there's like four or five spots with wires coming off of the back of the housing for each bulb/signal, etc.

You'll have to match up your pos. & neg. for each of these and get them running together and reduced to one wire...basically you're prepping everything to be connected to a single harness. Power, ground, pos., neg., etc. Preferably and quite obviously, a harness adaptable to your stock reciever. :-)

Here's a few photos to help get you started.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/1cc283ca369b755288574706baaa33fa.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/58494320f2b8ea44f21c43a824a83b69.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/fcaf24e3d17e51ac5dcb3564255bdf8d.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/095eea7de11c345d447c6901b6241d22.jpg

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[usmcvet]

Great news! You're not an idiot...whew...close one. ;-P

I have them on my car, which means i'm no idiot.

Yeah, there's like four or five spots with wires coming off of the back of the housing for each bulb/signal, etc.

You'll have to match up your pos. & neg. for each of these and get them running together and reduced to one wire...basically you're prepping everything to be connected to a single harness. Power, ground, pos., neg., etc. Preferably and quite obviously, a harness adaptable to your stock reciever. :-)

Here's a few photos to help get you started.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/1cc283ca369b755288574706baaa33fa.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/58494320f2b8ea44f21c43a824a83b69.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/fcaf24e3d17e51ac5dcb3564255bdf8d.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/095eea7de11c345d447c6901b6241d22.jpg

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Haha thank you, I was worried there for a sec. I'll get those installed this week then.
How do you like them on your own car? Since getting them (and thinking that I had fucked up) I did some searching on here and the general concensus I got was that spyder lights suck.
Have you had any problems with them?

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[lunder03]

Haha thank you, I was worried there for a sec. I'll get those installed this week then.
How do you like them on your own car? Since getting them (and thinking that I had fucked up) I did some searching on here and the general concensus I got was that spyder lights suck.
Have you had any problems with them?

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Absolutely no problems...well, I did manage to break part of the black plastic dust cover last night trying to peak in to look at the harness. My mistake, pulled a little too hard. :-/

However, I have some plastic glue made by "locktite" which allows for flexure; it should be just fine. It's not cosmetic and is inside the trunk area.

Anyway, I like them. Love the look at night and during the day. They have the modern look and feel, but do not really take away from the "clean" look a lot of people try to maintain.

Had mine for over two years now with no problems. Not even a bulb change yet....knock on wood.



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[G.AUDI]

Is Meyle brand a suitable replacement for Genuine Audi when it comes to CTS? Difference in price is about 20 dollars but not sure if its one of the situations where same maker makes both parts or the OEM is of better quality and the buy nice or buy twice rules apply?
(Yes I know it's only 20 bucks but why spend more if you don't have to?)

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[Willënskraft]

Has anyone use sound deadening mats to cover doors, hood, trunk well, etc? Pretty much went to town with that stuff.


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[eljay]

Is Meyle brand a suitable replacement for Genuine Audi when it comes to CTS? Difference in price is about 20 dollars but not sure if its one of the situations where same maker makes both parts or the OEM is of better quality and the buy nice or buy twice rules apply?
(Yes I know it's only 20 bucks but why spend more if you don't have to?)

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Yep, Meyle is good stuff.

[Arnie91]

Anyone installed 42 Draft Designs Water Temp Adaptor? Mounts onto the rear coolant flange. Looks nice, just wondering about the clearance once the coolant flange is on, between flange and engine wall

[audi_nightrider]

where can I find or what color is the wiring under the steering wheel for the dome light earth side of the bulb?

[Arnie91]

Anyone know how exactly you make a gasket for something like this ? Its a cylinder head thats been ported. It does look quite a mess. I'm just curious in general about gaskets for porting jobs


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8T-LARGE-PORT-Cylinder-Head-AGU-20V-New-Valves-Stem-Seals-Clean-Skimmed-VAG-/262677216987?hash=item3d28c83edb:g:PzIAAOSw8gVX9TZ L

[lunder03]

Anyone know how exactly you make a gasket for something like this ? Its a cylinder head thats been ported. It does look quite a mess. I'm just curious in general about gaskets for porting jobs


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8T-LARGE-PORT-Cylinder-Head-AGU-20V-New-Valves-Stem-Seals-Clean-Skimmed-VAG-/262677216987?hash=item3d28c83edb:g:PzIAAOSw8gVX9TZ L
Seams to me you would buy the gasket the original head required and modify it accordingly. Shouldn't be too much of a hassle, maybe time consuming.

Just my two cents...

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[alimo20]

if i flushed the system with water and then ran straight water for a couple of weeks, would i expect the water to come out perfectly clean? i did this and it came out somewhat brown. didnt smell that great.

[SJorge3442]

if i flushed the system with water and then ran straight water for a couple of weeks, would i expect the water to come out perfectly clean? i did this and it came out somewhat brown. didnt smell that great.

If you just pulled the radiator drain plug and let that drain and refilled with water, then there was a ton of coolant still left in the block and heater core that you didnt get. Driving around for a few weeks mixed that all up real good, thus making a brown substance. Gotta be careful running on water like that since there is no corrosion inhibitors or protectents in water like there is in coolant. You're refilling at this point with properly diluted G12 or better, right?

[alimo20]

If you just pulled the radiator drain plug and let that drain and refilled with water, then there was a ton of coolant still left in the block and heater core that you didnt get. Driving around for a few weeks mixed that all up real good, thus making a brown substance. Gotta be careful running on water like that since there is no corrosion inhibitors or protectents in water like there is in coolant. You're refilling at this point with properly diluted G12 or better, right?

the full story: i have ran through 10 gallons of distilled water over the last 6 weeks as my water pump was leaking. i would have to fill up every time i took it out. last week i finished the water pump replacement. i assume that after 10 gallons it should have been pretty thoroughly flushed out. today i filled up with almost a gallon of straight g13 after draining from rad to get to approx 50/50 mixture.

im just paranoid that head gasket is leaking as during this whole debacle there was a short trip involving near total coolant loss. seeing the water come out that dirty makes me more paranoid.

[JAudi23]

How many of you use it?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161020/b470e0409c3008959a06b21fdc2cdf70.jpg

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

[5ktq]

rear fogs? I will the first time it is foggy. Not that anyone here knows what it is, but if they can see me that's what matters I guess.

[thetikm]

Do you need spacers or longer bolts when putting in Bosch 550cc injectors?

[old guy]

Do you need spacers or longer bolts when putting in Bosch 550cc injectors?

Nope.

[thomastollar]

I needed EV1-EV6 adaptors for 550's on 2005 B6

[k909068]

This happened on my friend's B7, the locked doors can be opened with 1 pull of inner door handle. What should he do to open it with 2 pulls(1 for unlock, 1 for open)? I tried to add the code in central convenience module(46) but nothing changed.

[JAudi23]

After turning the ignition to the off position and opening the drivers door are our cars suppose to have a reminder beep/chime that the keys are still in?

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[k909068]

After turning the ignition to the off position and opening the drivers door are our cars suppose to have a reminder beep/chime that the keys are still in?

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

No, you'll get the beep if the light switch is not in 0/auto position or the indicator stalk is turned. No matter your key is inserted or not.

[JAudi23]

OK thanks, I am going to have to test this some more. I know I have mistakenly left the lights on because no beep reminded me that I left them on but I have also heard a beep with lights on at times.

I am a little surprised at no beep for leaving the keys in the ignition.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge smartphone using Tapatalk.

[Axis]

OK thanks, I am going to have to test this some more. I know I have mistakenly left the lights on because no beep reminded me that I left them on but I have also heard a beep with lights on at times.

I am a little surprised at no beep for leaving the keys in the ignition.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge smartphone using Tapatalk.

Speaker on the cluster might be dead.

Do you get a chime when you're out of gas?

[JAudi23]

Yes I get the beep when estimated distance remaining is down to I think 70km (I might be wrong on the number), but I do indeed get the beep at low gas.
I'll go play around with it later to see if I can figure out when it does and doesn't beep.

Axis, did I tell you I finally got the rearview mirror powered up. Best mod/retrofit ever. [:D]
One day I will jump and do the sideview dimming/folding mirrors too. [:/]

[Spike00513]

Has anyone ever swapped window trim?
I've got a set of Gloss Black, and Matte. OE. I'm not sure which to use. Maybe the Gloss looks better and is expensive factory option?
So far I already took off the middle pillar because it's very easy; two screws.

But I'm not sure about the back triangle.
http://thumbsnap.com/sc/2oVC4hwS.jpg

Edit: Found a DIY: http://a4-klub.pl/index.php?/topic/59955-all-b6-pakiet-polysk-podmiana-oslony-slupka-b-i-blendy-szyby-na-wariant-z-polyskiem/

And this instruction-set on AW:


http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.audiworld.com-vbulletin/500x596/80-a58_10001_07412fbcaa1001a6147b820f66f07b23d20438a1 .png

1 - Window frame
q Removing:

Note
When removing the window regulator, the self-adhesive seal for the window frame must be renewed → Fig..
q Remove door trim. → Rep. gr.70
q Window frame removed from door together with window regulator → Chapter
q Door window -6- removed
q To remove, unscrew countersunk-head bolt -5- and detach window regulator from window frame.
q Installing:
q When installing, ensure that guide rail runs parallel to guide -arrow-.
q Tighten bolt -5- to 6 Nm.
2 - Seal
q
3 - Triangular trim
q Before removing, take out window frame and window regulator
q Unscrew bolt -4- and detach trim panel to side
4 - Bolt with washer
q 7.5 Nm
5 - Countersunk-head bolt
q 6 Nm
6 - Door window
Removing:
q Lower door window.
q Unscrew bolts -7- and detach door window from window regulator.
Installing:
q Insert window in window regulator.
q Screw bolts -7- loosely into window regulator, but do not tighten yet.
q Move door window upwards into window frame.
q Pull door window forwards into window guide on window frame at B-pillar and tighten bolts -7- to 4 Nm.
7 - Countersunk-head bolt
q 4 Nm
8 - Window regulator
q Window frame removed from door together with window regulator → Chapter
q Door window removed
q To remove, unscrew countersunk-head bolt -5- and detach window regulator from window frame

Seems simple enough.
already have a bunch of spare big doorcard clips.

I'm sure the window seal felt will be soiled (scratches film) with dirt. Hopefully wet wipes clean it.
And the duct tape along the top of the insulation is probably dried out.

[Spike00513]

if anyone knows a good way to clean bellypan, please LMK.

it's bending under the weight of oil crud buildup.
A plastic chisel got the bulk of it off.
Not looking forward to driving somewhere just to rent a steam cleaner pressurewasher or something.
Might just leave it as is.
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/524439_x800.jpg

[old guy]

just take it to a car wash and spray it with the wand in the car wash bay

[jacobsen]

Zep purple degreaser

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[old guy]

My question is where is all the crud coming from??? I have well over 200K miles on my B6 and my belly pan is clean?????

[fR3ZNO]

Perhaps he drives on a dirt road a lot? Then a small oil leak to bind the dirt together. lol

[Willënskraft]

Zep purple degreaser


Wouldn't spraying a degreaser weaken the belly pan? As in making it more flexible of sort.

[jacobsen]

Wouldn't spraying a degreaser weaken the belly pan? As in making it more flexible of sort.
only really cheap plastic is affected by the purple Degreaser. I don't think the belly pan would suffer. It does stain metal however

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[Spike00513]

My VCG is leaking. It smells bad. I hope to change it soon.
I hear this can pool oil in the coilpack tubes, causing them to arc.

Will I be fine just cleaning off those parts, or does the oil damage them?
Not worried about cheap spark plugs, they're due anyway.

But coilpacks are expensive to replace if I don't have to.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

My VCG is leaking. It smells bad. I hope to change it soon.
I hear this can pool oil in the coilpack tubes, causing them to arc.

Will I be fine just cleaning off those parts, or does the oil damage them?
Not worried about cheap spark plugs, they're due anyway.

But coilpacks are expensive to replace if I don't have to.
Mine had a little bit of cooked stuff on them but they seem to be working fine. Replaced the VCG but still have the smell. Not sure what's up with that.

My biggest concern, sort of, is the cracked and heat damaged coil pack harness. Hoping they'll keep doing their job until I can get the swap sorted out.

[G.AUDI]

only really cheap plastic is affected by the purple Degreaser. I don't think the belly pan would suffer. It does stain metal however

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It suuuure does. Don't ask me how I know. [emoji36]

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[gilber33]

Yesterday I noticed a strange behavior with my car. 1.8t, 147k miles, 6 speed.

I am experiencing hesitation and a slight shutter right around 4k RPM in 3rd gear in heavier acceleration. The car hits 4k, it keeps moving forward but the rpms stay still. If I stay on it for a second or two it will almost work it's way through it and start acceleration again. Does not do it in 1st or 2nd, have not tried in 4 since I'd be going too fast for the roads on my way to work.

No CEL, I have hex can on the way so I can pull codes. But from my brief search I've read coil packs or fuel filter. Spark plugs are NGK coppers and have maybe 5k miles on them. Coil packs are original as far as I can tell. 147k on car. Fuel filter is most likely original as well. I'll pull codes when I receive the cable, but any advice would be appreciated.

[Willënskraft]

For those using OBD Fusion app, how do you get it to read the transmission fluid temperature?

[daught]

What's with the electrical plug on the thermostat? Is the thermostat electrically controlled?

My car is taking way longer to warm up then usual. After it gets to operating temp it stays there. Are these stats known to to have partial open failures?

[gilber33]

Yesterday I noticed a strange behavior with my car. 1.8t, 147k miles, 6 speed.

I am experiencing hesitation and a slight shutter right around 4k RPM in 3rd gear in heavier acceleration. The car hits 4k, it keeps moving forward but the rpms stay still. If I stay on it for a second or two it will almost work it's way through it and start acceleration again. Does not do it in 1st or 2nd, have not tried in 4 since I'd be going too fast for the roads on my way to work.

No CEL, I have hex can on the way so I can pull codes. But from my brief search I've read coil packs or fuel filter. Spark plugs are NGK coppers and have maybe 5k miles on them. Coil packs are original as far as I can tell. 147k on car. Fuel filter is most likely original as well. I'll pull codes when I receive the cable, but any advice would be appreciated.
Might have found part of my problem. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161028/89ca0bc7ac2a2b67755cfe30d7f77987.jpg

[URS4surf]

I have a podi boost gauge that during the initial startup sweep to limits only goes to just above +5 but only when it's cold out.

The gauge works fine during the warmer months on startup and always seem to work correctly once the car is running.

Any ideas out there what would cause this??

Thanks,
Steve

[jacobsen]

What's with the electrical plug on the thermostat? Is the thermostat electrically controlled?

My car is taking way longer to warm up then usual. After it gets to operating temp it stays there. Are these stats known to to have partial open failures?
The electrical plug on the thermostat is a heating element. This element gets hot, and controls the restriction within the thermostat from the wax media. I didn't solve my slow warm-up issue until I replaced both sensors and the thermostat. I started with the bottom side sensor, it got slightly better. I did the thermostat and it got half way better. Then I did the 4 pin sensor on top and it was totally fixed.

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[jacobsen]

And yes these thermostats are designed to fail open. The trouble is that is kind of a full safety net. Because your PCV system will become clogged with watery oil that is the consistency of cold butter. It will even look like butter. When your thermostat is bad or for whatever reason when your motor is not warming up moisture build-up in your crankcase and is distributed through your motor in the form of steam and standing water. When I took apart my PCV system after my bad thermostat and sensors it was chock-full of this sludgy stuff. Your PCV system is connected to your turbo inlet pipe. Your turbo inlet pipe will be sucking in this pasty waxy crap and because of the speed of the compressor wheel if one of these chunks gets sucked in it can damage your compressor wheel. So anyhoo if it blocks up your PCV system you can get leaky seals. And never forget the stupid j-plug

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[Razgriz227]

Picking up a new to me 2002 1.8TQM tomorrow, already have some mods planned. For the S4 rear bumper swap I've read that for early 02 models it won't fit properly. The issue with that is I can't find any info pointing as to why it won't fit or if there is any correction. Please point me in the right direction if you can.


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[daught]

I heated my cooling system up when I got stuck in traffic and my fans were not working. No overheating, it just got past the last white line but well under the red. That would be 110C.

I guess I will know if the thermostat is what got damaged when I have it out.

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk

[daught]

Any one seen these Mahle stats with something ground on their body? Distributor said mahle has to erase the Audi symbols before selling them as their own. Dunno sounds a bit weird for mahle to go through this.

Also what stat temp is original? 100c or 105c?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161028/fa1add4198fcea03a9706f080446b17a.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161028/0fdca2f692837011fe829c11cbd1a1ed.jpg

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk

[old guy]

Yep. OEM thermostat.Behr, not Mahle.

[daught]

Oh yea but it came in a mahle box

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161028/69650b26ae5da9bced44cf7d7b3b2254.jpg

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk

[Razgriz227]

Picking up a new to me 2002 1.8TQM tomorrow, already have some mods planned. For the S4 rear bumper swap I've read that for early 02 models it won't fit properly. The issue with that is I can't find any info pointing as to why it won't fit or if there is any correction. Please point me in the right direction if you can.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=87676)

just a little bump in case it was missed on the last page

[daught]

The tstat itself was fine. The rubber around that electric device was not fully sealing leaving quite a bit of water flow.

That hard pipe bolt was extra special since I have an oil pressure sensor right beside it. I ended up using two wobble extensions. First repair I used them on. They are extremely useful. They work way better than swivel adapters in many cases.

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk

[hightime80]

just a little bump in case it was missed on the last page

It fits just fine. I have an 02 with a s4 rear bumper. Be sure to adjust the rebar an inch or so rearwards. They are held on by a couple of bolts. It'll be obvious when you see it.

[my1stturbo]

Is there a too tight for the cap on the coolant expansion tank? Swapped out new tank and cap this morning but the cap seems to screw in way more than the original one. Feels tight before it bottoms out, but it keeps turning if you try it.

[eljay]

Is there a too tight for the cap on the coolant expansion tank? Swapped out new tank and cap this morning but the cap seems to screw in way more than the original one. Feels tight before it bottoms out, but it keeps turning if you try it.
It should "click" at the end.

[my1stturbo]

Thanks how my original one fits. This one was an OEM supplier I think that looks the same and threads in, but didn't hear/feel the click. Will try it again.

[daught]

It it a common occurrence for the tanks to crack without a BHG?

Oh is BHG a common acronym for blown head gasket or just a supra thing :)

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[jacobsen]

It it a common occurrence for the tanks to crack without a BHG?

Oh is BHG a common acronym for blown head gasket or just a supra thing :)

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk
Yes the coolant expansion tanks are poor quality in our cars. Anything plastic in our cars does not last.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[my1stturbo]

Yes the coolant expansion tanks are poor quality in our cars. Anything plastic in our cars does not last.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

This last tank only last a little under 2 years I think.

[jacobsen]

This last tank only last a little under 2 years I think.
Only buy oem and I think that there is a new revision tank. You might want to do a exhaust gas test on your expansion tank. It is a fluid which changes color if exhaust gases come in contact with it.

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[daught]

Only buy oem and I think that there is a new revision tank. You might want to do a exhaust gas test on your expansion tank. It is a fluid which changes color if exhaust gases come in contact with it.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Good to know. My B4 went for over 100k with a leaky head. Only needed two expansion tanks.

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[Razgriz227]

It fits just fine. I have an 02 with a s4 rear bumper. Be sure to adjust the rebar an inch or so rearwards. They are held on by a couple of bolts. It'll be obvious when you see it.

Thank you for clearing that up for me!


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[Spike00513]

What do you all do about sagging headliners?

I'm thinking about trying these Dorman automotive pins, over the fabric store kind, to hold me over until there's time to re-upholster it.
It sits on passengers' heads, flaps when the windows open, and blocks rear window view a little.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N3102/large/5707609_rnb_74360_pri_larg.jpg
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41v2Kp-QGDL.jpg

[lunder03]

The tstat itself was fine. The rubber around that electric device was not fully sealing leaving quite a bit of water flow.

That hard pipe bolt was extra special since I have an oil pressure sensor right beside it. I ended up using two wobble extensions. First repair I used them on. They are extremely useful. They work way better than swivel adapters in many cases.

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk
Yes sir! I use my set from time to time and it sure beats removing other engine compents for one bolt. At least it seems to just be one bolt a majority of the time.

Great tool, genius!

Sent from my SM-G360P using Tapatalk

[lunder03]

What do you all do about sagging headliners?

I'm thinking about trying these Dorman automotive pins, over the fabric store kind, to hold me over until there's time to re-upholster it.
It sits on passengers' heads, flaps when the windows open, and blocks rear window view a little.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N3102/large/5707609_rnb_74360_pri_larg.jpg
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41v2Kp-QGDL.jpg
Hmmm...are planning to use new material or re-use the original?

Either way, I had taken a damp rag to wipe a little dirt of mine on the rear passenger side which was a no no! The damp rag caused mine to fall away from the insulation.

Frustrated, I thought on it a few days and proceeded with the following...

I removed my rear window trim and then used a can of spray tach...better knowns as carpet adhesive. Can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes in the carpet tools dept. Then grabbed a nozzle (red long tube) off one of my WD40 cans, attached it and sprayed light to moderate on my problematic area. Smoothed it out evenly with my hands and reattched my trim.

***Do Not spray excessively or the glue Will seap thru. If excessive spray was accidentally used wait roughly 5 min. to attach...if the glue dried (dries fairly quick), spray again correctly.***

Mine has held up great, done roughly a year ago and no changes.

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[Razgriz227]

Looks like I can can get an s4 bumper possibly in the right color for about $450 not including shipping. would that be a good price? they go quick in the classifieds

[daught]

The electrical plug on the thermostat is a heating element. This element gets hot, and controls the restriction within the thermostat from the wax media. I didn't solve my slow warm-up issue until I replaced both sensors and the thermostat. I started with the bottom side sensor, it got slightly better. I did the thermostat and it got half way better. Then I did the 4 pin sensor on top and it was totally fixed.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
This morning it was cold and my car did not even warm up all the way with the new stat. It stayed at the first line even on the highway. Initially it warmed up quickly, but then it just stayed there. I wonder if I got a DUD, or I have a bad sensor too.

What is the lower sensor responsible for and what is the the upper for?

Can I see the value of both sensors with vag-com?

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk

[eljay]

This morning it was cold and my car did not even warm up all the way with the new stat. It stayed at the first line even on the highway. Initially it warmed up quickly, but then it just stayed there. I wonder if I got a DUD, or I have a bad sensor too.

What is the lower sensor responsible for and what is the the upper for?

Can I see the value of both sensors with vag-com?

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk
Yes, you can monitor the whole cooling system's performance in VCDS through blocks 130, 131, 132.
See my post here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/694757-What-actually-triggers-the-radiator-fans-Need-some-diagnostic-help?p=11622083&viewfull=1#post11622083) how I verified that all is working well.

And here is a more detailed thread (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/691490-CEL-Fun-Fan-Control-Module-Going-Out) on similar subject that should help.

Hope this helps.

[fR3ZNO]

Is there any benefit to running the FSI coils on a APR Stage 1+ tune? I understand the issue with dwell times vs the stock coils. But was curious about giving it a try if there's an appreciable power gain to be made.

[jacobsen]

Is there any benefit to running the FSI coils on a APR Stage 1+ tune? I understand the issue with dwell times vs the stock coils. But was curious about giving it a try if there's an appreciable power gain to be made.
Bigger, longer durations Spark event. For instance you could run a wider Gap and youre plug would not be under powered. This is doubly so for a fine wire iridium style plug. Which takes less power to fire it's Spark. it would be like super charging that kind of plug.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[daught]

Yes, you can monitor the whole cooling system's performance in VCDS through blocks 130, 131, 132.
See my post here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/694757-What-actually-triggers-the-radiator-fans-Need-some-diagnostic-help?p=11622083&viewfull=1#post11622083) how I verified that all is working well.

And here is a more detailed thread (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/691490-CEL-Fun-Fan-Control-Module-Going-Out) on similar subject that should help.

Hope this helps.
Thx. I am pretty sure my car is in panic mode. Both my fans start at full blast when I turn my car on. I did not have a chance to clear my codes but unplugging the thermostat electric connection fixed the cool running issue. I just need to clear codes when I get hone

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[eljay]

Thx. I am pretty sure my car is in panic mode. Both my fans start at full blast when I turn my car on. I did not have a chance to clear my codes but unplugging the thermostat electric connection fixed the cool running issue. I just need to clear codes when I get hone

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk
Reset the codes first and see what comes back. If you didn't reset the codes after changing parts, it's possible that the ECU still has stored codes and "plays it safe", which means full defense mode is on and fans are on full blast and t-stat open to prevent overheating.

[DarkoNova]

When you press the red key symbol on the door lock button on the driver's door, is it supposed to lock the doors?

Common sense says it should, but mine doesn't.

However, if I push the button above it, it unlocks the doors...

[customa4]

Yes, it should lock the doors.

[k909068]

This happened on my friend's B7, the locked doors can be opened with 1 pull of inner door handle. What should he do to open it with 2 pulls(1 for unlock, 1 for open)? I tried to add the code in central convenience module(46) but nothing changed.

[thetikm]

When doing a boost leak test do you plug all the connections on the tip or just the pcv?

[Spike00513]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSXwpuZKfhs
https://media.giphy.com/media/iSuffsM2olusE/giphy.gif

[jacobsen]

When doing a boost leak test do you plug all the connections on the tip or just the pcv?
I believe you want the PCV to breathe so it doesn't pressurize your seals which were never intended to handle the full Boost of the motor. So I know you want to disconnect your crankcase breather and I think oil cap?

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[DarkoNova]

Yes, it should lock the doors.

Well crap.

Is there anyway to test anything? Like blocks to monitor to check that the switch is working?

[naysay15]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSXwpuZKfhs
https://media.giphy.com/media/iSuffsM2olusE/giphy.gif

What does the simpson's looking character supposed to symbolize?

[Mr.Avant]

Well crap.

Is there anyway to test anything? Like blocks to monitor to check that the switch is working?
Good chance there may be broken wires in the door. It's easy enough to pull the rubber boot back and take a look. I opted to install a new door harness when I found multiple broken wires.

[gilber33]

Does anyone know exactly what style the terminal is on the ecs coil replacement harness? I tried using the supplied tool and it is indeed garbage and ruined a couple terminals. Need to order more

[5ktq]

From the pictures it looks like a series sumitomo makes, but they don't seem to amke it in 12 pin variant, that I can see.

here is chinese clone, is this the same connector? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-Sets-Kit-All-New-12-Pin-Waterproof-Electrical-Wire-Connector-DJ7125Y-2-2-11-21/32319586744.html

[alimo20]

I am guessing this warrants a new fuel injector?

https://s17.postimg.org/l2sn7x8hb/20161104_115652.jpg

[MurkyRivers_A4]

What does the simpson's looking character supposed to symbolize?

Have you seriously never seen Futurama? Have you no soul?

[Axis]

I am guessing this warrants a new fuel injector?

https://s17.postimg.org/l2sn7x8hb/20161104_115652.jpg

If I'm not mistaking you can buy the JHM pintle caps, they're made for the 4.2 injectors but I've been told they fit. I bought them but never installed them since I purchased new injectors.

Edit : Just noticed these dont look like our stock injectors, dont know if they fit on (at least what looks like) 386 injectors.

[naysay15]

Have you seriously never seen Futurama? Have you no soul?
I do vaguely remember the bitch with one eye ball lol. I just didnt put two and two together.
Besides, was wondering what that character supposed to emote in the contexts of his post.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

I do vaguely remember the bitch with one eye ball lol. I just didnt put two and two together.
Besides, was wondering what that character supposed to emote in the contexts of his post.

I would say its a skeptical look. Something that says "wait a second......"

[alimo20]

If I'm not mistaking you can buy the JHM pintle caps, they're made for the 4.2 injectors but I've been told they fit. I bought them but never installed them since I purchased new injectors.

Edit : Just noticed these dont look like our stock injectors, dont know if they fit on (at least what looks like) 386 injectors.

thanks.. im pretty sure that i have stock injectors, maybe the angle is weird on this pic. ill take a look at those caps!

[gilber33]

I installed the 2.0 coil packs and the engine cover doesn't fit with them installed, which I really dislike. My question is, on a rather stock car, is there a noticeable improvement over the stock coils? I couldn't find any decent reviews of them.

[MetalMan]

I installed the 2.0 coil packs and the engine cover doesn't fit with them installed, which I really dislike.

I came across the same thing, and as well was a bit disappointed. Instead I installed a stainless steel coil cover from 034 Motorsport. My valve cover is painted black as well.

[evo_ski]

If I'm not mistaking you can buy the JHM pintle caps, they're made for the 4.2 injectors but I've been told they fit. I bought them but never installed them since I purchased new injectors.

Edit : Just noticed these dont look like our stock injectors, dont know if they fit on (at least what looks like) 386 injectors.

I used the JHM ones for the 4.2. They look different, but work the same.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/7130655551_03ff5f26ae_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/6994766560_7a7da9d8fa_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8166/6994765674_bdcebc40fc_b.jpg

[gilber33]

I came across the same thing, and as well was a bit disappointed. Instead I installed a stainless steel coil cover from 034 Motorsport. My valve cover is painted black as well.
What was your impression going from the 1.8t coil packs to the 2.0?

[MetalMan]

What was your impression going from the 1.8t coil packs to the 2.0?

Couldn't say. My B6 still has what appear to be factory coil packs, and my B5 received its 2.0T coil packs in the midst of many additional changes (turbo, vacuum/PCV systems, etc.).

[DarkoNova]

Anybody installed the ECS jack pads?

The bottom of my car is already fucked from jacking up my car, just wondering if I can reverse the damage and keep it from getting worse by installing them...

[old guy]

Anybody installed the ECS jack pads?

The bottom of my car is already fucked from jacking up my car, just wondering if I can reverse the damage and keep it from getting worse by installing them...

I just modified my floor jack so it didn't lift on the weld seam. Clicky click® (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/568898-which-low-profile-jack?p=9243868&viewfull=1#post9243868)

[Seerlah]

Anybody installed the ECS jack pads?

The bottom of my car is already fucked from jacking up my car, just wondering if I can reverse the damage and keep it from getting worse by installing them...

Pic of how they look? If not too far gone, you can possibly just make them straight again with a simple adjustable crescent wrench. The purchase a jack pad. Personally, mine are too far gone to even want to try and fix.

I don't own a B6, but now just lift one entire side of the car at a time with a 2x4 on my jack under the frame. Put up two stands..then do the other side. Most times I use Rhino ramps. First have to drive onto longer cut 2x4s...but creates the clearance necessary (not that low...but like my wheels and tires following arch of fender).

[DarkoNova]

I just modified my floor jack so it didn't lift on the weld seam. Clicky click® (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/568898-which-low-profile-jack?p=9243868&viewfull=1#post9243868)

Interesting. I used to work at a machine shop so I could probably just go make a block like that...


Pic of how they look? If not too far gone, you can possibly just make them straight again with a simple adjustable crescent wrench. The purchase a jack pad. Personally, mine are too far gone to even want to try and fix.

I don't own a B6, but now just lift one entire side of the car at a time with a 2x4 on my jack under the frame. Put up two stands..then do the other side. Most times I use Rhino ramps. First have to drive onto longer cut 2x4s...but creates the clearance necessary (not that low...but like my wheels and tires following arch of fender).

I think I could just straighten the pinch weld but it would be nice to have a safe jacking point.

I try to put wood or like a thick rubber hose on the jack to avoid damage but it's kinda like why even bother at this point lol.

The low profile jack in the thread old guy linked is about the same price as the jack pads. Maybe I'll just get that jack and then make a custom block like old guy...

Hmm....

[SJorge3442]

Interesting. I used to work at a machine shop so I could probably just go make a block like that...



I think I could just straighten the pinch weld but it would be nice to have a safe jacking point.

I try to put wood or like a thick rubber hose on the jack to avoid damage but it's kinda like why even bother at this point lol.

The low profile jack in the thread old guy linked is about the same price as the jack pads. Maybe I'll just get that jack and then make a custom block like old guy...

Hmm....

If you have a low pro jack, you should be able to reach the transmission cross member. Thats what I use to jack up the front. For the rear, well I use the rear diff (gasp!), which I know many will disagree with.

[DarkoNova]

Yeah I use the rear diff to jack up the rear, too. I'm used to it from RWD cars, so I dgaf.

I have a low profile jack from harbor freight from like 10+ years ago but it's not a long reach one. No way it will reach the tranny cross member. In fact, even after bleeding it with new fluid, it takes a billion pumps to lift any car. I may as well just get a new jack. This thing has had a good life, lol.

[jacobsen]

There doesn't seem to be many good jacking points for our little be 6. The pinch weld is a terrible idea... But it's the most accessible place to do it. Why they don't build in a specific sturdy jacking point is Beyond Reason. Wouldn't jacking on the transmission crossmember be a big-time no no? With the belly pan off you can jack on the subframe and that's normally what I do.

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[SJorge3442]

There doesn't seem to be many good jacking points for our little be 6. The pinch weld is a terrible idea... But it's the most accessible place to do it. Why they don't build in a specific sturdy jacking point is Beyond Reason. Wouldn't jacking on the transmission crossmember be a big-time no no? With the belly pan off you can jack on the subframe and that's normally what I do.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

You'd be surprised how many cars have terrible jacking points. Hell, I've been doing work on two friends Suby's. A 2008 Legacy and a 2006 Forester. Both suck for jack points.

Why would jacking on the crossmember be bad? I juts right on the point that attached to the subframe, which then bolts to the frame. Probably the most solid point under the car, no? I'd watch jacking on the subframe as it can cave in from the pressure since its a hollow member.

[Willënskraft]

A lot of jacking going on in here [:D]


Sent from the Deathstar

[naysay15]

A lot of jacking going on in here [:D]


Sent from the Deathstar

Safe sex is best👍

[old guy]

You guys are making this jacking point stuff way more complicated than it needs to be. Here's another version of my metal block adapted to a different jack. The block of wood is the same dimension as the foot pad on the widowmaker OEM jack. The block will rest on the inside of the pinch weld exactly where the OEM jack uses to lift the car. So absolutely no damage and a very secure position.

http://i64.tinypic.com/119yn9i.jpg

The block is secured to the rubber pad by two wood screws to keep it from moving as you position it behind the pinch weld. Simple. Easy. Effective. Secure.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2gv3fiv.jpg

[evo_ski]

Can you write a diy for how to cut the wood block into that square shape? Also, would a light weight screw or maybe even a single screw lead to less fatigue when lifting the car due to decreased weight?

Hehehehehe

[old guy]

Can you write a diy for how to cut the wood block into that square shape? Also, would a light weight screw or maybe even a single screw lead to less fatigue when lifting the car due to decreased weight?



I found that by using aluminum wood screws I could reduce the pumping force required to lift the car. By the third pump I could really feel the difference. The best deal I could find for a quality Aluminum wood screw was from here: Clicky click® (http://aluminumfastener.com/woodscrews.html)

As for the wood block I have found that the Ztrust high density lightweight wood composite decking material fits the bill quite well. You don't have to worry about splintering and your wrist will appreciate the weight reduction. Clicky click® (http://waterproofboards.com/product_list.html)

[All_Euro]

I found that by using aluminum wood screws I could reduce the pumping force required to lift the car. By the third pump I could really feel the difference. The best deal I could find for a quality Aluminum wood screw was from here: Clicky click® (http://aluminumfastener.com/woodscrews.html)

As for the wood block I have found that the Ztrust high density lightweight wood composite decking material fits the bill quite well. You don't have to worry about splintering and your wrist will appreciate the weight reduction. Clicky click® (http://waterproofboards.com/product_list.html)


Excellent material selections... fantastic for high-performance car jack applications. The only thing I might add is that the flat head screws will be preferable to the round head [up]

[JAudi23]

Apparently I've been jacking it wrong all this time...

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge smartphone using Tapatalk.

[eljay]

Sounds like I don't know jack.


p.s. I need to find myself some block adapter for behind the pinch welds a la OG.

[evo_ski]

Made in the USA as well. An excellent choice!


:)

[my1stturbo]

Any issues using RNS-E from a 06 or 07 A4?

[Northern_B6]

1.8T

"Aftermarket" Injector O-ring part number?

Dealer wants something ridiculous like $4.95 CAD each.... F that!

Edit: There was a thread somewhere which outlined which "kits" were available from Autozone.

Double edit: Found the thread http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/463489-Bosch-TT225-Injector-O-Ring-Seals?p=7138853&viewfull=1#post7138853

[az]

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Any issues using RNS-E from a 06 or 07 A4?

What do you mean?

[jacobsen]

1.8T

"Aftermarket" Injector O-ring part number?

Dealer wants something ridiculous like $4.95 CAD each.... F that!

Edit: There was a thread somewhere which outlined which "kits" were available from Autozone.

Double edit: Found the thread http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/463489-Bosch-TT225-Injector-O-Ring-Seals?p=7138853&viewfull=1#post7138853

[az]
If you want TT injector O-rings guess what you're going to have to buy them from the dealer because they had the best deal when I was looking. I could find them on Amazon and eBay which are always the cheapest places to find things... EBay was more expensive than the dealer! Soz I think it cost me something like 30 bucks after tax.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Northern_B6]

If you want TT injector O-rings guess what you're going to have to buy them from the dealer because they had the best deal when I was looking. I could find them on Amazon and eBay which are always the cheapest places to find things... EBay was more expensive than the dealer! Soz I think it cost me something like 30 bucks after tax.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Should clarify that I'm looking for stock O-rings, not for TT225 injectors.

Thomas' part breakdown within that thread is for OEM 1.8T O-rings, 7.5mm x 3.5mm

[B5_t]

Just went to install a Denison ice link I had picked up. Followed the instructions on a4mods but when I flip over it still says no cd any ideas from anyone who owns one or knows about them ? Maybe just a bad cord to the iPod ?

[jacobsen]

Should clarify that I'm looking for stock O-rings, not for TT225 injectors.

Thomas' part breakdown within that thread is for OEM 1.8T O-rings, 7.5mm x 3.5mm
Those can be had Fairly cheap. Search eBay

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Willënskraft]

Did Audi ever install a factory TPMS for our B6? I couldn't find the indicator light on the instrument cluster.

[DarkoNova]

Doubtful. TPMS was a federal requirement starting in 07, I believe.

[chad99]

There is an icon on the cluster for it, takes the place of the immo light I think

[chad99]

Forgot to add on the latter b6 clusters

[JAudi23]

How would one test and confirm functionality of the turbo on a completely stock/OEM B6 1.8T engine?

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

[NYDCB]

What are these?

http://imgur.com/a/wpKol
http://imgur.com/a/F67Ds
http://imgur.com/a/ufL18

Found them both in my trunk while cleaning/

[eljay]

What are these?

http://imgur.com/a/wpKol
http://imgur.com/a/F67Ds
http://imgur.com/a/ufL18

Found them both in my trunk while cleaning/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/antenna-amplifier/8e5035225p/
...and the other is some trim clip. Find the part number on it and google it.

[A6Rick]

Hey ladies and gents.
Have a little inquiry. I'm searching for a power steering pump for my c5 4.2 A6.
And was wondering if that part was interchangeable between any other engine from our platform. Ie 2.7, 2.8, 3.0???
I tried searching through various sites but I keep finding conflicting pictures.

Sent from my SM-N930T using Tapatalk

[RDA990]

This doesn't make sense to me. 3/4ths of a tank for less than 80 miles. 25 miles for 1/4th of a tank??? I didn't even idle the car much compared to other times. The tank before this one I got 290 miles?

The only code I get is "P0171 - System too lean" every other time I go WOT for a long time, but I've always had that and had good MPG.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161109/dd23254e198c6d44d9c7402574f801cd.jpg

[SJorge3442]

This doesn't make sense to me. 3/4ths of a tank for less than 80 miles. 25 miles for 1/4th of a tank??? I didn't even idle the car much compared to other times. The tank before this one I got 290 miles?

The only code I get is "P0171 - System too lean" every other time I go WOT for a long time, but I've always had that and had good MPG.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161109/dd23254e198c6d44d9c7402574f801cd.jpg

Definitely think you have a fuel level sender issue. Have you changed your fuel pump recently?

[Willënskraft]

To program a key fob with new transponder chip will need VAG-COM correct?

EDIT: I already tried manually with this DIY Clicky (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/428047-How-to-program-your-Audi-flip-key-fob) ,yet no avail.

[rocket1420]

To program a key fob with new transponder chip will need VAG-COM correct?

EDIT: I already tried manually with this DIY Clicky (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/428047-How-to-program-your-Audi-flip-key-fob) ,yet no avail.

AFAIK you do need vag-com to code a new transponder. You will also need your SKC. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/Immo3-key-matching.html

There may be some hacked software or other homebrew method to do it. Nefmoto may have some info on that.

[rocket1420]

How do you tell if a coil pack is genuine Audi? I bought some 2.0 coil packs from Wolf Auto on eBay for $18 each, and the listing claims that they are genuine OEM. I don't see the rings on them anywhere. Is there some clue to look for?

- - - Updated - - -


This doesn't make sense to me. 3/4ths of a tank for less than 80 miles. 25 miles for 1/4th of a tank??? I didn't even idle the car much compared to other times. The tank before this one I got 290 miles?

The only code I get is "P0171 - System too lean" every other time I go WOT for a long time, but I've always had that and had good MPG.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161109/dd23254e198c6d44d9c7402574f801cd.jpg

Fill it back up and see how much gas it takes.

[jayaye4]

Well.. Here I go. ARE JOM Coilovers any good for a DD. LOL go easy on me fellas. [hail]

[jpulll]

for anyone who has done the b7 console swap in their car, i just acquired one and see the top bar on the console broke off...by the hazard switch/esp switch. this going to be an issue?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161111/2bb00eae56ea98e0ba3e200cd9170739.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (https://siteowners.tapatalk.com/byo/displayAndDownloadByoApp?rid=87676)

[Arnie91]

How can I get the crank sprocket off? There's nothing to hold it still while I try to wrench it off. I need to remove it to change the belt and inspect the area.

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r486/Arnie_Hill/20161111_183855_zps07khhxnq.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/Arnie_Hill/media/20161111_183855_zps07khhxnq.jpg.html)

This thing turned it, dont have anything to hold the harmoniser in place
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r486/Arnie_Hill/20161111_183849_zpstc9aajnx.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/Arnie_Hill/media/20161111_183849_zpstc9aajnx.jpg.html)

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r486/Arnie_Hill/20161111_183839_zpsnkfg82gp.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/Arnie_Hill/media/20161111_183839_zpsnkfg82gp.jpg.html)

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Remove the crank pulley, should just pull off since the 4 mounting bolts are removed.

Remove the lower timing cover

full access to removing the belt.

[Arnie91]

Remove the crank pulley, should just pull off since the 4 mounting bolts are removed.

Remove the lower timing cover

full access to removing the belt.

It wont move. Tried using a flat head screw driver with a little bit of pressure but was worried about damaging the pulley. Might try a crowbar?

[MurkyRivers_A4]

It wont move. Tried using a flat head screw driver with a little bit of pressure but was worried about damaging the pulley. Might try a crowbar?

Should just come right off. Hard to tell from the pics, but is the crank bolt shoulder sitting on the face of the crank pulley? If so, that is fucking weird.

[Willënskraft]

It should slide off, try some lubricant and a hammer to tap on it gently.

[Arnie91]

Should just come right off. Hard to tell from the pics, but is the crank bolt shoulder sitting on the face of the crank pulley? If so, that is fucking weird.

Yeah it is, possibly,.. that's why I'd of thought it has to come off, because it looks like it's holding it in place. It's solid on there.

I'll have a closer look tomorrow. I cant get close enough my head is too big!

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/r486/Arnie_Hill/20161111_183846_zpsb7oxq3rj.jpg (http://s1168.photobucket.com/user/Arnie_Hill/media/20161111_183846_zpsb7oxq3rj.jpg.html)

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Yeah it is, that's why I'd of thought it has to come off, because it looks like it's holding it in place. It's solid on there.

Thats not normal and makes me think its either an aftermarket pulley or an after market bolt.

Either way, you'll need to remove that bitch and its not only torqued but torqued and than an extra 90 degrees of rotation. Its gonna be hard but a long enough breaker bar, jack handles work well for this, will help you break it loose.

As for holding the crank from rotating, someone else will have to chime in.

[Arnie91]

Thats not normal and makes me think its either an aftermarket pulley or an after market bolt.

Either way, you'll need to remove that bitch and its not only torqued but torqued and than an extra 90 degrees of rotation. Its gonna be hard but a long enough breaker bar, jack handles work well for this, will help you break it loose.

As for holding the crank from rotating, someone else will have to chime in.

Ive got a big powerful torque wrench rated up to 900nm. Just need to work out a way to wedge that thing still.

You know I did have a feeling about that bolt. It thought it looked really weird because the cam pulley bolt looks clean and smooth. This one looks like it came off a lorry or something.

This is a picture from @Dougyfresh 's thread a while ago..

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3421/3189409139_55afbb926a.jpg

[Willënskraft]

It looks like the special tool is needed as a counterforce, but it can be fabricated for the crankshaft bolt removal. As for the pulley try using a hammer.


Sent from the Deathstar

[Willënskraft]

Also are your marks at TDC? Maybe that might help.


Sent from the Deathstar

[Arnie91]

It looks like the special tool is needed as a counterforce, but it can be fabricated for the crankshaft bolt removal. As for the pulley try using a hammer.


Sent from the Deathstar

Might be needed for the camshaft gear, but from what I've read in multiple places just now, the pulley should pop off. Might need a rubber mallet and a few knocks. I bought a timing set with cam and crank locks, but it might be for diesel engines, once I get the pulley off I will be able to see if they fit.


Also are your marks at TDC? Maybe that might help.


Sent from the Deathstar

No im not at TDC as im an idiot. But I did mark multiple places. I'll try knocking it off at TDC on the crank

[thomastollar]

be patient, lube it, and bang it around a little. When I did mine it did not slide off, I had to work on it a bit.

[Protection]

Mine was difficult to remove as well. Initially, I thought same as you that the crank bolt was holding it on. But I tapped on the face on alternating sides and it gradually started to move. Then I pulled it away from the block with one hand while tapping it with the mallet in the other hand. After alternating sides a dozen times, it came off.

I wouldn't screw with that crank bolt if you don't have to.


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[rocket1420]

Might be needed for the camshaft gear, but from what I've read in multiple places just now, the pulley should pop off. Might need a rubber mallet and a few knocks. I bought a timing set with cam and crank locks, but it might be for diesel engines, once I get the pulley off I will be able to see if they fit.



No im not at TDC as im an idiot. But I did mark multiple places. I'll try knocking it off at TDC on the crank

Others have already told you how to get that pulley off. But you mentioned "wedging" in your impact wrench. You do have the car in the service position, right?

And yeah, don't take that 19mm 12 point bolt off. Only use it to rotate the engine. Do NOT use the camshaft bolt to rotate the engine.

Another thought, with the belt off, I wouldn't rotate the engine. You could knock a piston into a valve and be really hosed.

[rocket1420]

Hey ladies and gents.
Have a little inquiry. I'm searching for a power steering pump for my c5 4.2 A6.
And was wondering if that part was interchangeable between any other engine from our platform. Ie 2.7, 2.8, 3.0???
I tried searching through various sites but I keep finding conflicting pictures.

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Put the part number into ECS (http://www.ecstuning.com). It will tell you what cars the part fits. You might also try the C5 forum, not the B6 ;)

[mosnet99]

What's the best cold weather oil to run. I already bought some Motul Xcess 5w40. Not sure if this will be good for Michigan

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[jacobsen]

What's the best cold weather oil to run. I already bought some Motul Xcess 5w40. Not sure if this will be good for Michigan

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That's great oil. Motul 0w40 is thinner. Thinner is better for cold.

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[mosnet99]

That's great oil. Motul 0w40 is thinner. Thinner is better for cold.

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Thanx

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[eljay]

What's the best cold weather oil to run. I already bought some Motul Xcess 5w40. Not sure if this will be good for Michigan

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Yep, great oil and you'll be fine with 5w40.

[Arnie91]

Recommended places to put a water temp sensor in to coolant system?

Will be using a universal water temp sensor adaptor with a water temp sender from prosport.

[old guy]

Recommended places to put a water temp sensor in to coolant system?

Will be using a universal water temp sensor adaptor with a water temp sender from prosport.

What does the water temperature sensor adaptor look like? How does it mount? The most accurate place to mount it would be as close to the exit hose from the rear coolant flange as possible. That will give you the same reading the the ECM utilizes from the rear CTS for temperature control. You could drill a hole and weld a bung on the coolant return hard pipe as close as the rear hose connection as possible.

Edit: I just Googled "universal water temp sensor adaptor ". Cut the hose between the rear coolant flange and the coolant return hard pipe and install it there.

[Arnie91]

It looks like the special tool is needed as a counterforce, but it can be fabricated for the crankshaft bolt removal. As for the pulley try using a hammer.


Sent from the Deathstar


Also are your marks at TDC? Maybe that might help.


Sent from the Deathstar


What does the water temperature sensor adaptor look like? How does it mount? The most accurate place to mount it would be as close to the exit hose from the rear coolant flange as possible. That will give you the same reading the the ECM utilizes from the rear CTS for temperature control. You could drill a hole and weld a bung on the coolant return hard pipe as close as the rear hose connection as possible.

Edit: I just Googled "universal water temp sensor adaptor ". Cut the hose between the rear coolant flange and the coolant return hard pipe and install it there.

Thanks Oldguy. Yeah it's just an adaptor piece that slices into the hose. Pretty neat I reckon.

[eljay]

Does injector blowby like this mean that the cups and not the o-rings are leaking?
I don't see dirt inside the cups, just around on top.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161113/7c1f04883da7f5eb29834857c2be230a.jpg

[jacobsen]

Does injector blowby like this mean that the cups and not the o-rings are leaking?
I don't see dirt inside the cups, just around on top.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161113/7c1f04883da7f5eb29834857c2be230a.jpg
Leeaakaaaggge. Replace cups and o rings

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[old guy]

Does injector blowby like this mean that the cups and not the o-rings are leaking?
I don't see dirt inside the cups, just around on top.



If you have never cleaned the injector seats that amount of crud is really pretty insignificant for an 11 year old engine. I would recommend cleaning the injector seats and then just keeping an eye on them to see how fast it builds up.

[eljay]

If you have never cleaned the injector seats that amount of crud is really pretty insignificant for an 11 year old engine. I would recommend cleaning the injector seats and then just keeping an eye on them to see how fast it builds up.
Thank you. I've only had the car for a year and a bit, so I'm not sure, but those injectors were installed about 55k and 4 years ago. So, I'd hope the PO cleaned up the seats when putting those in. I am seeing a slight vacuum leak on my boost gauge and occasional misfire on #2.
I guess I should clean these up and replace the o-rings. Injector seat replacement would be certainly more involved.

[NickTerry]

So I just installed a Blauparts timing belt tensioner and now I am hearing a weird bubbling/ wub wub wub sound. My hydraulic tensioner failed after 6k miles so I figured I would switch to their updated configuration.

I put the front into service position and left everything intact that wasn't necessary to remove for the timing belt replacement.

Does anyone have an idea as to what can be causing this noise?


https://www.flickr.com/photos/83942446@N05/30851627902/in/dateposted-public/

[old guy]

Are you confident that you installed the Liten's tensioner correctly?

Did you make sure the metal right angle stop was inserted into the hole correctly?

Did you follow this procedure? Clicky click® (http://www.litensaftermarket.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Installation_Procedure_979004.PDF)

[NickTerry]

Are you confident that you installed the Liten's tensioner correctly?

Did you make sure the metal right angle stop was inserted into the hole correctly?

Did you follow this procedure? Clicky click® (http://www.litensaftermarket.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Installation_Procedure_979004.PDF)

I was until you started questioning me, jerk!

Metal right angle meaning the black tab that goes into the hole on the head? I believe that is sitting in there correctly.

I did not follow this exact procedure, just the picture instructions that came with the parts. They were oh so helpful and descriptive!

[old guy]

Yeh, the pictures alone kinda suck. But with a little descriptive narrative to go with it it makes a lot mose sense. Sounds like you may want to revisit the installation.

[NickTerry]

Yeh, the pictures alone kinda suck. But with a little descriptive narrative to go with it it makes a lot mose sense. Sounds like you may want to revisit the installation.

Here is where the belt is ridding. I couldn't snap a picture of the metal piece in the hole.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161114/df86f1762aa13555e0a3ae9f52f22df9.jpg

Son of a bitch, I don't want to be without my car for another week [emoji22] no garage+ getting home after it is dark means no working on the car.

It can't be anything else? I am not getting any codes.


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[rocket1420]

Edit: I just Googled "universal water temp sensor adaptor ". Cut the hose between the rear coolant flange and the coolant return hard pipe and install it there.

You say that like that's easy!

[old guy]

Here is where the belt is ridding. I couldn't snap a picture of the metal piece in the hole.

Son of a bitch, I don't want to be without my car for another week [emoji22] no garage+ getting home after it is dark means no working on the car.

It can't be anything else? I am not getting any codes.



See if you can get a mirror down there and check the tab alignment. Now that you have the verbal description to go along with the pictures how confident are you that you set it correctly?

[old guy]

You say that like that's easy!

Actually it really should be easy! Just get the correct size adaptor, cut the rubber hose, insert and clamp the adaptor.

Done!

https://www.searchlock.com/mirror/p?e=1&h=NJFb2nIdfFmF7hx6Jq31U3utVQtRmwnRODi9wy30SMBfNdHX b2WS/ysDP2Zhk3nylaCukQncCKywyk6pZ3xNsw9p7VGQ8UFIvwODM9Y QSHbepSjiccw6k9Q3BA78oGfs&u=http://www.carid.com/images/blox-racing/products/bxga-00100-bk.jpg

[eljay]

What's the best thing to wrap a cracked wiring sleeve? I'm talking about the cover over the wiring harness leading to the coils. I have a small tear in it. The wires are fine, just want to protect them and I don't think a plain old electrical tape in the exhaust manifold are will be enough.

[rocket1420]

Actually it really should be easy! Just get the correct size adaptor, cut the rubber hose, insert and clamp the adaptor.

Done!


That hose and I do not get along well. At all. Does that add like an inch to the length of the hose? That might put pressure on the coolant flange.

[old guy]

That hose and I do not get along well. At all. Does that add like an inch to the length of the hose? That might put pressure on the coolant flange.
Cut a section out the same length as the adaptor.

[mosnet99]

Quick question I can't find a quick answer to, I live in Southeast Michigan so Coilovers are not an option basically if I want a halfway decent ride. So I'll be going with a cup kit with maybe adjustable dampening. I do want to be a tiny bit lower than sport suspension. So my question is I'm replacing upper control arms now but I was just gonna go with some FCPs, then I started thinking is there any requirements needed for lowering these cars? Like adjustable CAs or anything for the altered geometry with lowering it?

[rocket1420]

Quick question I can't find a quick answer to, I live in Southeast Michigan so Coilovers are not an option basically if I want a halfway decent ride. So I'll be going with a cup kit with maybe adjustable dampening. I do want to be a tiny bit lower than sport suspension. So my question is I'm replacing upper control arms now but I was just gonna go with some FCPs, then I started thinking is there any requirements needed for lowering these cars? Like adjustable CAs or anything for the altered geometry with lowering it?

How much is "a tiny bit?" Some people use adjustable UCAs, some don't. I do, but I'm at like 23.5" GtF. Old Guy doesn't, but I think he's around 25" GtF. His tire wear is normal FWIW.

[mosnet99]

How much is "a tiny bit?" Some people use adjustable UCAs, some don't. I do, but I'm at like 23.5" GtF. Old Guy doesn't, but I think he's around 25" GtF. His tire wear is normal FWIW.
I don't know what stock GTF height is but probably like a half inch lower.

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[eljay]

Quick question I can't find a quick answer to, I live in Southeast Michigan so Coilovers are not an option basically if I want a halfway decent ride. So I'll be going with a cup kit with maybe adjustable dampening. I do want to be a tiny bit lower than sport suspension. So my question is I'm replacing upper control arms now but I was just gonna go with some FCPs, then I started thinking is there any requirements needed for lowering these cars? Like adjustable CAs or anything for the altered geometry with lowering it?
+1 on what rocket said above. I have Koni FSD+Eibach Pro kit springs with regular FCP CA kit.
I'm in the Northeast corner, so we get snow and this works well. I'm around 25" to fender as well.

[mosnet99]

+1 on what rocket said above. I have Koni FSD+Eibach Pro kit springs with regular FCP CA kit.
I'm in the Northeast corner, so we get snow and this works well. I'm around 25" to fender as well.
Is the Koni FSD kit lower than OEM Sport setup?

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[eljay]

Is the Koni FSD kit lower than OEM Sport setup?

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Koni FSDs themselves are not. They are just replacement shock absorbers. The Eibach Pro kit spring are a touch lower than oem Sport. Not sure how much though.