questions you thought were too dumb to ask

[jco897j]

@jco897j

Door Sill - https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/SiteSearch/door_sills/

I don't think that's correct. The door sill is more inside the car. The piece in the picture I'm talking about has the screw in it and it is up against the sideskirt.


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[old guy]

Part number 13? Clicky click® (https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+a4+avant/a4/2005-249/8/853-853010/#13)

[a4audi4fun]

Try checking the Rocker Panel or Moulding and Trim sections here then

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Exterior/Body/

You're more likely to recognise the actual part you are looking for.

[ErvinB]

Would that be possible to use the S4 6spd tiptronic on a A4 3.0? Just wondering.

[Audishiit]

I have 04 A4 1.8t Quattro
Its 16 years old so the suspension is shot.
I’ve done tons of engine work including replacing steering rack but I’ve never messed with suspension components.
Would replacing all the struts make it ride better? Or do the springs get old & sloppy
& need replacing

[a4audi4fun]

Trust others with more experience will also chime in but control arms and associated bushings would be my choice for the first area to to look at. You could get a feel for the strut/shock absorber state by pushing down heavily at each corner of the car - watch how smoothly it rebounds and whether or not it's a single motion or multiple. Obviously complete replacement of all the suspension components would give the most improvement but that's a lot of money to be putting into a 16+ year old car.

[Audishiit]

Yeahhhhh 16 year old car hoping to get another solid 8-12months out of it.
I just was on auto-parts.com and saw struts for like $70 for all 4.

The way it rides isn’t even that big of a deal, what annoys me is my Snub mount is MIA so at idle the car vibrates like a mofo

[a4audi4fun]

Snub mount isn't just for idle; get that replaced and you might be surprised how much more driveable your car becomes anyway - without it, there's a lot of engine weight twisting around in the front.

[Deerhurst]

16 years old is nothing. Just blew a factory shock from 1986 in my truck a couple weeks back. Put the time and money into it now and you'll be thanking yourself later. Especially if you see yourself keeping the vehicle.

[Audishiit]

Yeah I ordered snub mount, hood prop strut, both rear window regulators,
Wanted to get sound deadening Mat and stick it under the hood, what do you guys think?
It still had the stock cloth thing on the underside of the hood

[Deerhurst]

Not sure what good it does on the hood.

I believe a shop local to me uses Kilmat. I'm going to give it a shot on silencing a cabinet of an industrial vacuum pump soon. It's 85db at 12 inches. Kinda annoying.

[SoundEfx]

Can someone help me out by taking a picture of their coil pack wiring harness colours and the order they are in for the 3.0L? Or if they have a link. I don't trust the previous owners of the car I bought and they messed with the harness.
I tried searching for it, but everything is for the 2.0. It's like everyone wants to pretend the 3.0 doesn't exist.

[pablolizarraga]

Can someone help me out by taking a picture of their coil pack wiring harness colours and the order they are in for the 3.0L? Or if they have a link. I don't trust the previous owners of the car I bought and they messed with the harness.
I tried searching for it, but everything is for the 2.0. It's like everyone wants to pretend the 3.0 doesn't exist.

Hope this helps!
176456


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[SoundEfx]

Hope this helps!
176456


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Thank you sir, it does.
So I guess the wires were in the correct order but the engine refuses to start. Injectors are spraying and coils are sparking the plugs. So I guess it's out of timing or it has no compression. Either way, out it comes.

Does anyone have a working 3.0L for sale?

[Roadflyer]

Hello everyone,
This is my first post and it's hilarious that I posted in dumb questions section. [:D]
so I'm very interested if it's possible to bypass A/C compressor with a short belt in my 2004 audi a4 b6 1.8T quattro,
Because the pulley has a screaming sound. [a4]

[old guy]

Clicky click (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/711213-A-C-Compressor-and-system-question?p=11681514&viewfull=1#post11681514)®

Gates K060450

[drewgold]

Hi from the B7 forum!

I'm looking at buying a cheap B6 with about 350,000kms on it to fix up. It runs but loses electrical power randomly while driving, not all the time but randomly. Obviously kind of a big issue.

Anyone familiar with the sort of issue on the B6? Other than the alternator, any other thoughts?

Thanks for any advice!

[daught]

^all power? I had a weird issue where for a fraction of a second I would loose power to all interior illumination, dash, deck, and engine would drop. This was very quick, but it got more and more frequent. In the end it ended up being the gauge cluster.

[daught]

What's a good glue to reatach the door insulating foam? I don't want to use something strong that would end up ripping the foam I ever have to remove it again.

[Audishiit]

04 a4 1.8t Quattro
So my driver seat is thrashed, cracks & rips everywhere.
I want to replace driver & passenger seats.
Is there a website I can check for compability between models & years?
For example there’s 4 a4s at my local junkyard that arrived 2 days ago but there 2006 and 2007, would those fit?
What about even going newer then 07, there’s an 09 with super clean seats

[fR3ZNO]

04 a4 1.8t Quattro
So my driver seat is thrashed, cracks & rips everywhere.
I want to replace driver & passenger seats.
Is there a website I can check for compability between models & years?
For example there’s 4 a4s at my local junkyard that arrived 2 days ago but there 2006 and 2007, would those fit?
What about even going newer then 07, there’s an 09 with super clean seats

B7 seats would be a direct swap to your B6. The B7 front pass. seat has an occupancy sensor in it for the airbag, but you can just leave that unplugged.

B8 ('09) seats can be swapped too (they bolt in) but need some wiring work to be fully functional. There's a DIY here on how to do it.

[Audishiit]

Here’s another dumb question.
I have a pending code that’s coolant performance issue.
I’m 98% sure it’s my coolant temp sensor cuz my cluster gauge readings are off.
But would that code cause it too run in limp mode?
Just drove it and it was boosting 8-10psi when I started driving then after a while it would only boost to 4-5psi

I have a sensor arriving tomorrow I’m just curious if that’s causing me to throw it in limp mode since the Ecu can’t get proper coolant temps

[twfry]

Why does a bad PCV combo valve cause a rough idle and the block to be under a hard vacuum?

The PCV combo valve allows air to pass from the block to the IM when the IM is under vacuum, while preventing boost from going into the block. During idle the IM is under vacuum and the PCV combo valve allows air to pass from the block to the IM.

When the PCV combo valve fails you have a rough idle and can barely pull the oil cap off since it is under vacuum, but when it works it also is pulling air from the block.

So why when it fails does idle get rough, I would think that the issue would be seen under boost with pressure entering the block instead.

[Dr.B6Banter]

I was replacing the fuel filter yesterday and must not have followed the proper procedure to disconnect the quick connect fittings because one of the fittings (line from fuel pump to filter) broke internally and won't click back onto the new or old filter. It slides onto the filter all the way but pops out as soon as there is pressure in the line.

Since the fuel pump is on the drivers side of the car I think it would be tricky to replace the whole line as I would have to drop the tank, so I'm thinking of using one of those Doreman fuel repair kits (https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/OES7304923?partTypeName=Fuel+Line+Connector&keywordInput=fuel+line+repair+kit) which seem to have a similar quick connect fitting that I can put on the end of the stock line. Just wondering if they are in fact a similar style quick connector?

An alternative that came to mind was to cut the nylon line a few inches behind the broken connector on the filter, then use an appropriate size rubber fule line to bridge between the nylon line and the input on the fuel filter. Just unsure if the combination of a hose clamp and some jb weld would be enough to keep the rubber hose on the nylon fuel line as it is the high-pressure line between the filter and fuel pump.

[flasheverything]

I want to start doing engine swaps, what capacity is recommended for audi 1.8, 2.0 and maybe honda engines?


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[flasheverything]

I want to start doing engine swaps, what capacity engine cranes are recommended for audi 1.8, 2.0 and maybe honda engines?


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[fR3ZNO]

I was replacing the fuel filter yesterday and must not have followed the proper procedure to disconnect the quick connect fittings because one of the fittings (line from fuel pump to filter) broke internally and won't click back onto the new or old filter. It slides onto the filter all the way but pops out as soon as there is pressure in the line.

Since the fuel pump is on the drivers side of the car I think it would be tricky to replace the whole line as I would have to drop the tank, so I'm thinking of using one of those Doreman fuel repair kits (https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/OES7304923?partTypeName=Fuel+Line+Connector&keywordInput=fuel+line+repair+kit) which seem to have a similar quick connect fitting that I can put on the end of the stock line. Just wondering if they are in fact a similar style quick connector?

An alternative that came to mind was to cut the nylon line a few inches behind the broken connector on the filter, then use an appropriate size rubber fule line to bridge between the nylon line and the input on the fuel filter. Just unsure if the combination of a hose clamp and some jb weld would be enough to keep the rubber hose on the nylon fuel line as it is the high-pressure line between the filter and fuel pump.

AFAIK, the quick connect fittings are fairly standard. I would use the repair line, but I'm not sure how difficult it would be to splice into the current Nylon line. You might want to look into using the ferrules because normally the Nylon line splicing is done with a pusher type tool after the Nylon line is heated up and made malleable so you can insert the barbed end.

[fR3ZNO]

I want to start doing engine swaps, what capacity is recommended for audi 1.8, 2.0 and maybe honda engines?


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Considering the 1.8T is around 500lbs a 1 ton engine crange would be sufficient.

[Deerhurst]

Cleared my service interval with VCDS and it all just says "--" now. What did I manage to screw up?

[Tahoe3.0]

not sure about the vcds situation, but, you can clear it using the wrench and 0.0 buttons on the dash next time.

press and hold wrench with ignition off, turn key to on, release wrench and press and hold 0.0 button until it clears.

[Dr.B6Banter]

AFAIK, the quick connect fittings are fairly standard. I would use the repair line, but I'm not sure how difficult it would be to splice into the current Nylon line. You might want to look into using the ferrules because normally the Nylon line splicing is done with a pusher type tool after the Nylon line is heated up and made malleable so you can insert the barbed end.

Yeah, I believe Dorman themselves makes a tool to get the nylon hose over the barbed ends, so I doubt its something you can do by hand very easily. According to their site, a local Canadian tire may have a similar quick connector piece as I linked previously, so I will take the fuel filter in there to make sure the piece fits and looks like it won't leak.

What do you mean by "ferrules"? If I'm not able to find a compression style union to connect the replacement and existing nylon fuel line I will have to find a length of rubber fuel line to fit over both pieces and used a combination of adhesives and a worm clamp to make the connection.

[old guy]

Cleared my service interval with VCDS and it all just says "--" now. What did I manage to screw up?

Just drive a few miles and then check it again. It will reset.

[fR3ZNO]

Yeah, I believe Dorman themselves makes a tool to get the nylon hose over the barbed ends, so I doubt its something you can do by hand very easily. According to their site, a local Canadian tire may have a similar quick connector piece as I linked previously, so I will take the fuel filter in there to make sure the piece fits and looks like it won't leak.

What do you mean by "ferrules"? If I'm not able to find a compression style union to connect the replacement and existing nylon fuel line I will have to find a length of rubber fuel line to fit over both pieces and used a combination of adhesives and a worm clamp to make the connection.

Sorry for the terminology, what I meant to say was a compression style union. I was able to find some on Amazon a few months back when I repaired the fuel line on my girlfriends car, it was for connecting steel line to nylon. It was Dorman brand as well, they make unions for nylon to nylon in the push to connect style like the picture in your post.

Something like this would work: Clicky Click (https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-193-Fuel-Line-Connector/dp/B008ZCF8WA/ref=psdc_15728271_t4_B000XQ5IO4)

I'm just not sure what hose size you would need off the top of my head. Might need to measure the fuel hose on your car.

[Deerhurst]

not sure about the vcds situation, but, you can clear it using the wrench and 0.0 buttons on the dash next time.

press and hold wrench with ignition off, turn key to on, release wrench and press and hold 0.0 button until it clears.

I missed the key on/off stuff so it just reset my trip. I'll try this after lunch. It didn't work so I went to VCDS yesterday. I was rushed and trying to beat the rain.

- - - Updated - - -


Just drive a few miles and then check it again. It will reset.

25 miles later it reads the same. Posted about it being dumb after the drive. I figured it would do it's thing after a few miles too. I was wrong.

[Deerhurst]

Opinions?

Bilstein HD or Koni Sports?


Car has sports suspension.

[a4audi4fun]

I missed the key on/off stuff so it just reset my trip. I'll try this after lunch. It didn't work so I went to VCDS yesterday. I was rushed and trying to beat the rain.

- - - Updated - - -



25 miles later it reads the same. Posted about it being dumb after the drive. I figured it would do it's thing after a few miles too. I was wrong.

I think it takes more than 25 miles - maybe 100? If the interval is say 10,000 mi so far you've only travelled 0.25% of the expected interval [:)]

[Audishiit]

My car is an 04 a4 1.8t so the fuel filter is on the passenger so but same concept.
Here’s what I did when I broke the connector part.
I went to auto parts store and I got the repair kit.
It came with nylon hose already connect to the quick disconnect so all you had to do was trim off the excess nylon line and can’t remember if it came with a barbed fitting or I got it from homedepot.
Anyways i let the nylon sit in boiling water for atleast 5 minute to get it somewhat soft, jammed the barbed fitting in there. Then I had to heat up some water and take that to the car and heat up the original nylon line. It was a complete pain the ass to get that barbed fitting into the nylon. But got it and got some hose clamps and boom done

[Tahoe3.0]

Upgrading my brakes today. Can somebody confirm the bleeding order for me? There’s a lot of conflicting info out there. I’ve always started furthest from the master cylinder but the stuff I’ve been reading says to go in the opposite order.

Is this correct? LF, RF, LR, RR?

[Tahoe3.0]

Opinions?

Bilstein HD or Koni Sports?


Car has sports suspension.

Bilstein HD will ride like a truck. Go bilstein b8 or koni sports

[Deerhurst]

I think it takes more than 25 miles - maybe 100? If the interval is say 10,000 mi so far you've only travelled 0.25% of the expected interval [:)]

I don't remember it ever doing this in the past. I've always cleared with VCDS.


Tahoe, I ended up with Koni sports. I honestly don't think it's possible for a car to ride like my truck. That would take replacing the springs with 2x4s! Looking forward to new shocks as the rears are completely blown.

[old guy]

Upgrading my brakes today. Can somebody confirm the bleeding order for me? There’s a lot of conflicting info out there. I’ve always started furthest from the master cylinder but the stuff I’ve been reading says to go in the opposite order.

Is this correct? LF, RF, LR, RR?

Yep. That is the correct sequence according to the Bentley manual.

[Tahoe3.0]

Thanks OG

[hightime80]

Really dumb question. I don't know why I haven't thought about this before...but it's killing me😂, what keeps the WG closed past cracking pressure. The boost signal actually opens the WG so the n75 bleeds it off to build boost...but what keeps the WG closed beside the spring while on boost?

[old guy]

Just the spring pressure. But keep in mind the force pushing the wastegate spring is the exhaust pressure pushing against the wastegate flapper. It isn't connected to the boost pressure except through the N75.

Too much spring pressure can cause issues with boost modulation on the bottom end. Too little spring pressure can cause a loss of boost at the top end.

[hightime80]

Thank you OG. That makes complete sense.

[lunder03]

Hello all,

Been rebuilding the heads of my 3.0, replaced everything but the valve guides. After starting to put everything back together and replacing all the timing belt parts and serpentine parts, I worked on replacing all the PCV hoses/lines...

Anyway, on the drivers side head, in the back between the firewall and the head there is the metal coolant hose which feeds coolant to the head and bolts to the head with two bolts and one of the combi-valves which bolts to the head with three bolts, however, there appears to be something I’m missing as to the left of the metal coolant line which bolts to the head (as your standing in front of the car) there is something which requires three bolts. Unfortunately, my car set oh, about three years in the garage and waited for me to put it all back together.

Anyway, off of my wife’s A6, which became my donor car I removed the heads of the donor car and removed/detached all the fun stuff required to take the heads off. Unfortunately, and this is because I didn’t know I was missing anything I do not know what bolts there, nor can I find anything from when I tore my car down three years ago or from the donor car. Can anyone tell me what bolts there? I have uploaded a photo area of the object in question. It seems like I remember removing what goes there off of the donor car, but not what. Also, I have looked at photo after photo of engine bays, tear downs of different stages and have yet to see a photo on here or anywhere else online which could be helpful and I’m not shelling out $120 for the Bentley manual after spending 4-5 grand in replacement parts and upgrades. I have the Haynes manual which is sufficient, but is severely lacking in any blueprints for the 3.0l.

I have seen some good screen shots of the area in question, but ironically, there always seems to be a hand or a hose or something blocking what I need to see...lol. Go figure! :-/ I pretty much have everything back together aside from valve covers, plugs, packs, etc., radiator support, radiator, front bumper cover and the radiator hoses and sensor clips and there doesn’t seem to be anything missing...so is it a support bracket for the coolant reservoir?

Thank you in advance to anyone who can point me in the right direction...a photo of what goes there would work best or just a part name which I could look up...there’s got to be something, anything?!?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200520/95a72241f3ba90fde4cb172c2558bfc7.jpg


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[Dr.B6Banter]

My car is an 04 a4 1.8t so the fuel filter is on the passenger so but same concept.
Here’s what I did when I broke the connector part.
I went to auto parts store and I got the repair kit.
It came with nylon hose already connect to the quick disconnect so all you had to do was trim off the excess nylon line and can’t remember if it came with a barbed fitting or I got it from homedepot.
Anyways i let the nylon sit in boiling water for atleast 5 minute to get it somewhat soft, jammed the barbed fitting in there. Then I had to heat up some water and take that to the car and heat up the original nylon line. It was a complete pain the ass to get that barbed fitting into the nylon. But got it and got some hose clamps and boom done

Yeah the fuel filter on my car is on the passenger side as well. Ideally I could get a compression fitting to splice the new and old lines together since the barb style fittings have to be a pretty specific size and even then you have to heat them up quite a bit to get the nylon hose over the barb. If I'm not able to find that the quick connect and compression fitting then I'll have to resort to the rubber fuel line and a combination of adhesives and hose clamps to keep it on the nylon line.

[Tahoe3.0]

Hello all,

Been rebuilding the heads of my 3.0, replaced everything but the valve guides. After starting to put everything back together and replacing all the timing belt parts and serpentine parts, I worked on replacing all the PCV hoses/lines...

Anyway, on the drivers side head, in the back between the firewall and the head there is the metal coolant hose which feeds coolant to the head and bolts to the head with two bolts and one of the combi-valves which bolts to the head with three bolts, however, there appears to be something I’m missing as to the left of the metal coolant line which bolts to the head (as your standing in front of the car) there is something which requires three bolts. Unfortunately, my car set oh, about three years in the garage and waited for me to put it all back together.

Anyway, off of my wife’s A6, which became my donor car I removed the heads of the donor car and removed/detached all the fun stuff required to take the heads off. Unfortunately, and this is because I didn’t know I was missing anything I do not know what bolts there, nor can I find anything from when I tore my car down three years ago or from the donor car. Can anyone tell me what bolts there? I have uploaded a photo area of the object in question. It seems like I remember removing what goes there off of the donor car, but not what. Also, I have looked at photo after photo of engine bays, tear downs of different stages and have yet to see a photo on here or anywhere else online which could be helpful and I’m not shelling out $120 for the Bentley manual after spending 4-5 grand in replacement parts and upgrades. I have the Haynes manual which is sufficient, but is severely lacking in any blueprints for the 3.0l.

I have seen some good screen shots of the area in question, but ironically, there always seems to be a hand or a hose or something blocking what I need to see...lol. Go figure! :-/ I pretty much have everything back together aside from valve covers, plugs, packs, etc., radiator support, radiator, front bumper cover and the radiator hoses and sensor clips and there doesn’t seem to be anything missing...so is it a support bracket for the coolant reservoir?

Thank you in advance to anyone who can point me in the right direction...a photo of what goes there would work best or just a part name which I could look up...there’s got to be something, anything?!?


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https://m.imgur.com/a/Z017mlP

Mine doesn’t have anything there, either.

[kaleb.anderson]

Anybody had luck with these (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-maxton-design-parts/hatch-spoiler-rs4-look/aua4csp02~mxd/)? Wanting a hatch spoiler but I'd like something a bit more than the USP if anybody has other suggestions or has one laying around they'd like to part with

[Deerhurst]

100 miles in. Maintenance screen still says ---.

[lunder03]

https://m.imgur.com/a/Z017mlP

Mine doesn’t have anything there, either.

Cool, cool...thanks, Tahoe3.0...yeah, I was starting to come to that conclusion, but you never know.


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[lunder03]

Cool, cool...thanks, Tahoe3.0...yeah, I was starting to come to that conclusion, but you never know.


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Noticed bolt holes in the passenger side head on the cam sprocket side too, obviously nothing goes there on our AVK setup and most likely BGN too, probably there for different set-ups as we clearly have no known upgrades or anything to go there for our models.


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[slacktide]

Anybody had luck with these (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-maxton-design-parts/hatch-spoiler-rs4-look/aua4csp02~mxd/)? Wanting a hatch spoiler but I'd like something a bit more than the USP if anybody has other suggestions or has one laying around they'd like to part with

I have the Votex one from Audi - PN 8E90716409AX. Bought it from these guys last year. https://www.audihendersonparts.com/p/53738068/8E90716409AX.html Happy with it.

[Ol Dirty Noodle]

I have the Votex one from Audi - PN 8E90716409AX. Bought it from these guys last year. https://www.audihendersonparts.com/p/53738068/8E90716409AX.html Happy with it.

Installed a pics....

[slacktide]

Installed a pics....

https://i.imgur.com/URlHhGy.jpg?1

[Ol Dirty Noodle]

Nice, so can anyone chime in whether the maxton rS4 one would be bigger or smaller than this? Trying to decide which roof spoiler to go with

[Audishiit]

This me sound dumb so bare with me.
04 a4 1.8t
Fixed coolant temp sensor so I had battery unplugged for 30 min.
When I first started my car and I look at the short term fuel trim it was anywhere from -19% to -27%
So the long term fuel trim had no data to go off of besides it idling, so it shot up to -13.3%
But when It finished warming up and I drove around the block the short term fuel trim was perfect, they slightly only worrying thing was when I was WOT and let off gas short term would blip to -9% then back to 0

So is this really high negative stft when warming up normal?

[WeekendDriver]

How to remove the lens housing from the halogen headlight? I unscrewed 3 nuts, but there is also a piece of springy steel wire holding the reflector housing in 2 spots, and I don't see a proper way to disarm it.

[Deerhurst]

How to remove the lens housing from the halogen headlight? I unscrewed 3 nuts, but there is also a piece of springy steel wire holding the reflector housing in 2 spots, and I don't see a proper way to disarm it.

Not quite sure what you are doing? Got a photo?

[WeekendDriver]

Not quite sure what you are doing? Got a photo?
I'm trying to take out the lens with its reflector:
https://i.imgur.com/sB6j4Jq.png

And I don't understand how to properly and carefully disengage this spring:
https://i.imgur.com/AoWrWwk.png

[old guy]

Squeeze either side of the spring toward the center and the leg will slide out.

[dafried]

I have 2014 A7 TFSI with 95k miles and I bought it as a lease return CPO with 24k on it. Always serviced at dealer and now out of extended warranty. I am doing my first oil change and I want to confirm a couple of things: Oil Filter is up top (I see it and I have the socket for it). No dipstick, just a cover. most importantly, manual says to "extract the oil" - nothing about a traditional drain plug. I thought extracting left behind stuff that would get dumped out if I drained in the traditional manner from the bottom. Huh?

Thank in advance!

[old guy]

I have 2014 A7 TFSI with 95k miles

You are posting the the A4 B6 forum. This forum covers the 2002 →2005 A4's.

You should post in the forum that covers your model. Clicky click® (https://www.audizine.com/forum/forumdisplay.php/265-C7-A6-S6-RS6-A7-S7-RS7) and you will get more appropriate responses.

And your engine does have a oil drain plug in the oil pan;-)

[WeekendDriver]

Squeeze either side of the spring toward the center and the leg will slide out.
Thank you! I managed to move either one of the legs side to side by a significant amount, but it still won't come out. To clarify: by "toward the center", did you mean toward the other leg? Or toward the reflector itself?

[old guy]

Thank you! I managed to move either one of the legs side to side by a significant amount, but it still won't come out. To clarify: by "toward the center", did you mean toward the other leg? Or toward the reflector itself?

Squeeze both sides toward the center. Toward the other leg. Getting it out is pretty easy. Putting it back in is a bit more work. There is a rubber band method for reassembly. Give me a minute to find the pics.

Found it: Clicky click® (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/516324-OEM-Halogens-to-Morimoto-Mini-H1-Adapters?p=8532976&viewfull=1#post8532976)

[Deerhurst]

I'm trying to take out the lens with its reflector:
https://i.imgur.com/sB6j4Jq.png

And I don't understand how to properly and carefully disengage this spring:
https://i.imgur.com/AoWrWwk.png
Oh! Pulling the projector.

Like said above, grab each leg with pliers and flex inward. That supports the weight of the projector.

The projector will come out in 3 pieces. Bowl, cutoff then lens. There are little rubber things on the lower studs. Don't loose those. When you reinstall you will have to realign the projector to the high beam using the lower studs. Those are basically the spring that holds tension on the projector to hold it's alignment to the high beam.

[WeekendDriver]

There are little rubber things on the lower studs. Don't loose those. When you reinstall you will have to realign the projector to the high beam using the lower studs.
Thank you very much for the words of warning! Makes me glad I was still not able to take out the spring yesterday after much plying. Now after your explanation I realize this is much more difficult than I thought, I won't be able to install an aftermarket projector myself. I will take the headlights to a professional for retrofitting new projectors. Thanks again!

[JAudi23]

Is it possible to connect a glove box CD changer (Part # 4E0-035-011) from a 2004'ish A8L into a B6 with the RNS-E swap?
I noticed after I got it home it has 3 wires in the main harness and a secondary harness with what appears to be dual Optical cable.

I'm guessing I brought home a fancy paper weight for my desk.....

[twfry]

I am replacing the downpipe this weekend on my 1.8 6MT, which requires taking the CAT out as well. My plan is to remove the upstream O2 sensor before removing the CAT/downpipe, but leave the rear O2 sensor in the CAT and remove the whole assembly with the O2 sensor still in the CAT.

While the CAT is out I'd like to clean it, does the rear O2 sensor have to be removed from the CAT before the CAT can be cleaned out? Or can the O2 sensor be left in during cleaning? They are pretty tight at this point so I'd prefer to not have to remove the rear sensor and just leave it in place if that is possible. Thanks

[jpulll]

My key spins freely in the ignition chamber. With my research I have determined it is the ignition cylinder that needs replacing. My question:

Does the replacement of the ignition cylinder (107905855CF) require a new key or am I able to retain the existing key. I am under the impression I do not need a new key.


Sent from my iPhone

[Ol Dirty Noodle]

What’s the difference between the grey and red Bentley manuals for the b6? The red one seems to be priced anywhere from $10-60 more than the Grey one.

[Hightekflytech]

Are there any OEM front mount intercoolers that will work for the B6?

[twfry]

My key spins freely in the ignition chamber. With my research I have determined it is the ignition cylinder that needs replacing. My question:

Does the replacement of the ignition cylinder (107905855CF) require a new key or am I able to retain the existing key. I am under the impression I do not need a new key.


Sent from my iPhone

I'd assume the exact same reason as why the red ignition coils cost more than the black ignition coils, red costs more than black/grey?

[SoundEfx]

Are there any videos or step by step guidance on removing a B6 3.0 engine? I know the concept is the same as any car, but just like the B5 S4 where there are some tips, I'm wondering if there is anything similar for the B6.

[Dr.B6Banter]

I am replacing the downpipe this weekend on my 1.8 6MT, which requires taking the CAT out as well. My plan is to remove the upstream O2 sensor before removing the CAT/downpipe, but leave the rear O2 sensor in the CAT and remove the whole assembly with the O2 sensor still in the CAT.

While the CAT is out I'd like to clean it, does the rear O2 sensor have to be removed from the CAT before the CAT can be cleaned out? Or can the O2 sensor be left in during cleaning? They are pretty tight at this point so I'd prefer to not have to remove the rear sensor and just leave it in place if that is possible. Thanks

Do the O2 sensors disconnect ffrom the engine harness? It was my understanding that you had to remove the sensors since you could not unclip them from the harness.

I just replaced my downpipe and installed a test pipe so I understand your reluctance to remove the O2 sensors since mine were on there pretty tight and was a challenge to get them out.

What I did was to remove the primary O2 sensor with everything in place, then unbolt the cat and downpipe from the exhaust and pull it up through the engine bay then remove the secondary O2 sensor once you had the cat pulled out far enough to get a wrench on the threads.

[slacktide]

Do the O2 sensors disconnect ffrom the engine harness?

Yes. Connectors are on the firewall.

https://i.imgur.com/eXvDku1.jpg?1

[Audishiit]

I have b6 a4 1.8t
Been battling negative fuel trims.
Here’s my theory.
I replaced MAF, coil packs harness, fuel injector harness; fuel cups, fixed boost leaks.

Replaced cts sensor, noticed my car takes a good 10 min of idling to warm up to middle of the gauge,
But I have a scanner that is showing coolant temps of 73c it does not go higher than that.
I live in Vegas so it’s 108 right now so it should be warming up really quickly,
I can’t test if I have heat but I bypassed the heatercore.

My theory, what if my thermostat is stuck open causing the coolant to cycle continuously Would that cause me to run rich? While it was warming up my short term fuel trims were -25%
When it got too 73c it went to 0; 3.2; -2.3
(I’ve tried 3 different cts sensors) no change in temps.


Anyone have any opinions on this?
Would be greatly appreciated

[Audishiit]

Drove it again on a test drive, it got up to 93c
But my long term fuel trim is still way to negative
Like -8% to -11%

[wangerang]

Drove it again on a test drive, it got up to 93c
But my long term fuel trim is still way to negative
Like -8% to -11%

what changed


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Audishiit]

Nothing..... literally the only thing I can think of is that I had my battery unplugged for hours before the first start and that it was causing the fuel trim & temp reading to be weird...
I’ve spent hours reading about this and the only thing I can think of is that I have a boost leak or vacuum leak causing unmetered air into the combustion chamber.
But I can boost to 8-10psi
And my vacuum reading is 20hg at warm idle.

I would happily pay $500 for this issue to be fixed hahaha

[Audishiit]

I was just watching a video explaining fuel trims, and he was exposing the reasons why a car can be running rich and 1 of them was “a worn engine” and went on to explain if your piston rings are worn.

Could it be possible I have low compression across all 4 cyclnders causing these fuel trim issues?

[old guy]

Keep in mind that Audi considers a LTFT of +/- 10% within the normal range.

It's possible that your LTFT remains on the high side because of your thermostat. The 1.8T has a mapped cooling system. Here's some really good information on how the mapped cooling system operates. Clicky click® (https://www.dynarev.com/Audi_Electronically_controlled_engine_cooling.html )

In steady state part throttle conditions you should be seeing coolant temperatures in the range of 95°→110°c. Mine is typically is between 100°→103°c. When you increase the load on the engine the coolant temperature will drop to the 85°→95°c range. I have seen my drop all the way to 82°c on a really long uphill pull but it will return to the 100°→103°c range once the engine load decreases.

There is some information in this thread on how to monitor your mapped system. Clicky click® (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/624981-Coolant-temp-sensor-and-heat?p=10299652&viewfull=1#post10299652)

[Ol Dirty Noodle]

I'd assume the exact same reason as why the red ignition coils cost more than the black ignition coils, red costs more than black/grey?

Turns out it’s hardcover and colored pics, I ordered the grey but this just turned up
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200529/3910281d8b9e282c4db775dad24ddc5a.jpg

[Deerhurst]

That's fancy! May I ask what it cost you?

[Ol Dirty Noodle]

That's fancy! May I ask what it cost you?

$96, free shipping worked out to be overnight for me [emoji1591]

[twfry]

What is the pink chalky stuff in G12+ coolant? Is it some sort of sealant? I am referring to the pink residue that is left over after coolant that was exposed to air dries.

The reason I am asking is the o-ring that connects the rear coolant flange to the heater host has been seeping for a year. I recently redid the coolant but this time went with a 50/50 mix of 12+ coolant to water, where before I went with more of a 25/75 mix.

After about a week the connection between the rear coolant flange and the heater hose is no longer dripping. It was a small leak before, system needed a liter of water once every few months, but now it seems to be slowing or have stopped. I am wondering if the pink residue is meant to seal small leaks and that the higher coolant concentration was able to seal this where the lower concentration I was using before couldn't.

[Hightekflytech]

Car is smoking when idling but not driving, bad turbo?
No signs of misfiring or anything of that nature

[hightime80]

Listen for dentist drill noise. Pull the TIP off check for shaft play.

[Hightekflytech]

I guess I can say my turbo is gone, makes a weird noise under boost that I’ve never heard before

[WeekendDriver]

Does the rear ceiling reading light from B7 (part number 8P0947111A / 8P0947111) fit B6? Looks like it should, but it would be great if someone confirmed this for me before I order the part.

[SoundEfx]

Am I reading this right? It was in a local ad.

Other (see description)
Hi I'm selling my 2003 Audi A4 B6 manual transmission AWD Clean title it has 211676 miles on it decent condition change the brake discs, brake fluid the tires have 80% treads on them I have a new clutch in hand it comes with the car for free Oil change up to date it does show signs of use in and out of the car but it's really clean for its age there's no mechanical problems but the check Engine light is on because the Air filter sensor is dirty.
OBO

[WeekendDriver]

the check Engine light is on because the Air filter sensor is dirty.

I'm sure it will go away after replacing the blinker fluid!

[twfry]

Am I reading this right? It was in a local ad.

Other (see description)
Hi I'm selling my 2003 Audi A4 B6 manual transmission AWD Clean title it has 211676 miles on it decent condition change the brake discs, brake fluid the tires have 80% treads on them I have a new clutch in hand it comes with the car for free Oil change up to date it does show signs of use in and out of the car but it's really clean for its age there's no mechanical problems but the check Engine light is on because the Air filter sensor is dirty.
OBO

Buy it, the CEL will offer a nice discount and in this case all you have to do is spend a few bucks to replace the air filter, not spend weeks tracking down god knows what emission, vacuum, ignition or fuel system issue. Great deal.

[SoundEfx]

I would do all of that but I already have an A4 that I'm reviving.

[Blockis]

Am I reading this right? It was in a local ad.

Other (see description)
Hi I'm selling my 2003 Audi A4 B6 manual transmission AWD Clean title it has 211676 miles on it decent condition change the brake discs, brake fluid the tires have 80% treads on them I have a new clutch in hand it comes with the car for free Oil change up to date it does show signs of use in and out of the car but it's really clean for its age there's no mechanical problems but the check Engine light is on because the Air filter sensor is dirty.
OBO

Too many miles for my blood.

[Protection]

Buy it, the CEL will offer a nice discount and in this case all you have to do is spend a few bucks to replace the air filter, not spend weeks tracking down god knows what emission, vacuum, ignition or fuel system issue. Great deal.

There is no sensor that illuminates the MIL solely for a dirty air filter. Now if it were so restricted that significantly blocked airflow, you may get a MAF code. But that could be numerous things...bad MAF sensor, faulty wiring to the MAF, dirty MAF sensor. If it were so easy, ask yourself why the seller didn’t remedy it.

If this car is something you want to get involved in, I wouldn’t touch it without running a full scan to see what you are getting into. I always check the readiness codes first to see if the seller recently cleared all the codes before I got there. But honestly, unless the seller were giving it away, with that mileage I wouldn’t touch it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[flasheverything]

can someone let me know what I'm missing here. I found this vacuum line chilling and I can't find any info from the part number that's on it. It branches from the bottom t fitting

https://i.imgur.com/lIR5f34.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kA48ebM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s5T1guV.jpg

[Dr.B6Banter]

can someone let me know what I'm missing here. I found this vacuum line chilling and I can't find any info from the part number that's on it. It branches from the bottom t fitting



I'm not entirely sure but I think some of the intake manifolds had a vacuum port on the underside near the throttle body which that hose might go it. It looks like it is attached to one of the solenoids on the underside of the intake manifold and if the vacuum lines had been cleaned up and the "unnecessary ones" removed that hose may have been used to loop the ports on the solenoids together to stop a vacuum leak.

I will have to look at my car's engine bay to figure out if that is a stock line and where it should go to.

[old guy]

That is your N112 solenoid located underneath the intake manifold. It should connect to the combi valve. It is part of the SAI (Secondary Air Injection) system that runs on a cold start. Its function is to get the catalytic converter up to temperature faster.

[flasheverything]

That is your N112 solenoid located underneath the intake manifold. It should connect to the combi valve. It is part of the SAI (Secondary Air Injection) system that runs on a cold start. Its function is to get the catalytic converter up to temperature faster.

thanks

[my1stturbo]

Is swapping to a S4 cluster on a 03 a DIY including the immobilizer and mileage if non virgin? I think I had found instructions in the past but hadn't located software. Or does it just make more sense to send it out to get original cloned? With all that's going on the car sitting for a week or so isn't a huge issue.

[Hightekflytech]

Can I go as high as 20 psi on a boost leak test without damaging any seals?

[old guy]

Can I go as high as 20 psi on a boost leak test without damaging any seals?

Yes, but be sure to remove the PRV from the TIP and plug the TIP opening for the PRV. Also leave the oil filler cap off.

[Hightekflytech]

Yes, but be sure to remove the PRV from the TIP and plug the TIP opening for the PRV. Also leave the oil filler cap off.

There’s not the n75 right? Or is it?

[old guy]

There’s not the n75 right? Or is it?

Nope. What year is your B6?

[Natejo91]

If I just wanted the color display on my gauge cluster, is it possible/how difficult is it to just swap in the display from the B6 S4 cluster sitting in my garage?

[old guy]

If I just wanted the color display on my gauge cluster, is it possible/how difficult is it to just swap in the display from the B6 S4 cluster sitting in my garage?

Clicky click (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/658776-Color-DIS-S4-cluster-into-red-DIS-car?p=10876544&viewfull=1#post10876544)®

[old guy]

Nope. What year is your B6?

If you have an 03 or newer your PRV is located on the back of the valve cover.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KuxePTuC8xE/maxresdefault.jpg

You need to disconnect the PRV from the TIP so you do not pressurize your block. You can dfisconnect and plug it at either end.

If you have a 2002 model the PRV is plugged directly into the TIP and needs to be disconnected there.

http://www.a4mods.com/pics/boosleak/IMG_0680.JPG

[Hightekflytech]

If you have an 03 or newer your PRV is located on the back of the valve cover.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KuxePTuC8xE/maxresdefault.jpg

You need to disconnect the PRV from the TIP so you do not pressurize your block. You can dfisconnect and plug it at either end.

If you have a 2002 model the PRV is plugged directly into the TIP and needs to be disconnected there.

http://www.a4mods.com/pics/boosleak/IMG_0680.JPG
The infamous pancake valve huh
Perfect
Mine is a 2004 but I have that deleted so I should be ok?[emoji3061]

[old guy]

Yep. Just be sure to leave the oil cap off.

[Hightekflytech]

Yep. Just be sure to leave the oil cap off.

Much appreciated sir

[Natejo91]

Clicky click (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/658776-Color-DIS-S4-cluster-into-red-DIS-car?p=10876544&viewfull=1#post10876544)®

Thanks OG, I'm well aware of that thread and have come very close to just doing the full swap. I have an S4 cluster and a working version of VAG EEPROM and have gone so far as to download the encrypted file of my OEM cluster.
But rather than running the risk of bricking my cluster by swapping the whole thing, I was wondering if it was possible to just swap the displays.

[JAudi23]

The standard B6 rear bumper is two parts right? Does the bottom portion easily seperate from the upper portion?

Sent from my SM-G965W using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[a1rh3adSz]

did audi recently change their G13 coolant? I look at ecs website and the jug is completely different now. Its label as 50/50 mixed already and ready to use.
So does that mean i can just straight pour in the reservoir without adding water?

[old guy]

Thanks OG, I'm well aware of that thread and have come very close to just doing the full swap. I have an S4 cluster and a working version of VAG EEPROM and have gone so far as to download the encrypted file of my OEM cluster.
But rather than running the risk of bricking my cluster by swapping the whole thing, I was wondering if it was possible to just swap the displays.

That I cannot answer. Maybe someone else will chime in. I swapped the complete cluster when mine pixelated.

[old guy]

did audi recently change their G13 coolant? I look at ecs website and the jug is completely different now. Its label as 50/50 mixed already and ready to use.
So does that mean i can just straight pour in the reservoir without adding water?

G13 is compatible with G12. And yes you use the 50/50 mix as is. Already mixed for you;-)

You can also purchase the G13 unmixed.

[Hightekflytech]

What could cause my diverter valve to stay semi open under acceleration? Yesterday’s boost leak test turned out good but it seems as if under partial throttle I can hear it open a bit. Doesn’t really sound like it was when I first purchased the B6. The forge dv was partially open when I did the boost leak test so I swapped it out for the OEM. I don’t have any codes for anything related to it.

[old guy]

Do you still have the vacuum/boost line connecting the intake manifold to the DV? Are you sure there are no cracks or splits in the line?

You also mentioned that you removed the PRV. Is you block simply venting to atmosphere?

[Hightekflytech]

Do you still have the vacuum/boost line connecting the intake manifold to the DV? Are you sure there are no cracks or splits in the line?

You also mentioned that you removed the PRV. Is you block simply venting to atmosphere?

Yes sir
The small line that runs along the timing cam cover is hooked up and there are no cracks

Yes, currently it is venting to atmosphere

[old guy]

The forge dv was partially open when I did the boost leak test so I swapped it out for the OEM. I don’t have any codes for anything related to it.

How did you perform your boost leak test? Did you disconnect the TIP from the MAF sensor and pressurize from there?

[Hightekflytech]

How did you perform your boost leak test? Did you disconnect the TIP from the MAF sensor and pressurize from there?

That is correct
And blocked off the intercooler to throttle body hose

[old guy]

When you pressurize from the TIP you are also pressurizing the DV from both sides. The DV discharge into the TIP is pressurized as well as as well as the turbo boost outlet hose connection. Consequently you really aren't checking the DV.

I'm curious as to where yours was leaking.

[Hightekflytech]

When you pressurize from the TIP you are also pressurizing the DV from both sides. The DV discharge into the TIP is pressurized as well as as well as the turbo boost outlet hose connection. Consequently you really aren't checking the DV.

I'm curious as to where yours was leaking.

With the forge, it was leaking at the atmospheric outlet, hence the reason I took it off thinking that was the issue. With the OEM diverter, boost leaks were not present

[old guy]

Understood. You were running a Forge Splitter valve.

Back to your original question "What could cause my diverter valve to stay semi open under acceleration?"

You need to have a good boost signal from your intake manifold to the DV. If the hose providing the vacuum/boost signal is kinked or clogged in any way it will not add the boost signal to the DV spring pressure, thus allowing the DV to start to open under pressure.

[Hightekflytech]

Understood. You were running a Forge Splitter valve.

Back to your original question "What could cause my diverter valve to stay semi open under acceleration?"

You need to have a good boost signal from your intake manifold to the DV. If the hose providing the vacuum/boost signal is kinked or clogged in any way it will not add the boost signal to the DV spring pressure, thus allowing the DV to start to open under pressure.

Got it
Is there a specific line from the intake manifold I should be attached to? The one closest to the front of the car is what it’s attached to at the moment

[old guy]

Got it
Is there a specific line from the intake manifold I should be attached to? The one closest to the front of the car is what it’s attached to at the moment

That port is fine. I assume you have bypassed your N249 control solenoid?

[Hightekflytech]

Got it
Is there a specific line from the intake manifold I should be attached to? The one closest to the front of the car is what it’s attached to at the moment

That line should be facing up on the diverter valve as well correct?

[old guy]

That line should be facing up on the diverter valve as well correct?

Yes that will work fine. Actually you can install it in either direction and it will still function.

The only other thing I can think of is that your OEM DV has a torn diaphragm. That would limit your boost pressure considerably.

[Hightekflytech]

That port is fine. I assume you have bypassed your N249 control solenoid?

I don’t have a code for the n249 so is it safe to assume it’s still connected?

[Hightekflytech]

Yes that will work fine. Actually you can install it in either direction and it will still function.

The only other thing I can think of is that your OEM DV has a torn diaphragm. That would limit your boost pressure considerably.

Would I be in limp mode if it’s torn?

[old guy]

I don’t have a code for the n249 so is it safe to assume it’s still connected?

You can bypass it by running the DV directly off of the intake manifold but leave the N249 plugged into the electrical harness and you will not get a DTC code.

[old guy]

Would I be in limp mode if it’s torn?

It would feel like limp mode since you would not be able to build boost pressure above the DV spring. Somewhere around 5 psi.

Disconnect the vacuum/boost line from the intake manifold and suck on it. If you can pull any air through it at all the diaphragm is torn.

The Walky_Talky20 Strawberry Milkshake test;-) Clicky click® (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/501438-Timing-belt?p=7924563&viewfull=1#post7924563)

[Hightekflytech]

It would feel like limp mode since you would not be able to build boost pressure above the DV spring. Somewhere around 5 psi.

Disconnect the vacuum/boost line from the intake manifold and suck on it. If you can pull any air through it at all the diaphragm is torn.


You can bypass it by running the DV directly off of the intake manifold but leave the N249 plugged into the electrical harness and you will not get a DTC code.

Ok so I kno it’s not torn because I’m tuned and definitely boosting past 5. I’ll try the boost line trick shortly

Might I add that I have fluctuating boost at full throttle, idk if that means anything

[old guy]

You would only be limited to 5 psi if the diaphragm is completely torn. A small tear can result in fluctuating boost as you are experiencing.

[Hightekflytech]

You would only be limited to 5 psi if the diaphragm is completely torn. A small tear can result in fluctuating boost as you are experiencing.

I mean I’m no vacuum but I didn’t notice me being able to get any air out of that line when I tried sucking on it....

[old guy]

I mean I’m no vacuum but I didn’t notice me being able to get any air out of that line when I tried sucking on it....

OK. It sounds like your DV is working properly.

[Hightekflytech]

OK. It sounds like your DV is working properly.

Yeah it’s weird.
I have these codes but this won’t contribute to my issue at hand iirchttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200616/91ad5a97ca6cf640708cd33380a613d7.jpg
Of course I’m running a test pipe, hence the o2 sensor codes and the sai/evap delete

[old guy]

Can you give a better description of your problem?

[Hightekflytech]

Can you give a better description of your problem?

Those are the codes I have at the moment. When driving, partial throttle seems like full boost just about (granted I have to install my boost gauge still smh) but WOT is when the boost fluctuates. Also, WOT is when I hear a screeching from the engine bay. Last week I had my turbo replaced due to the seals going bad and my sai/egr delete as well but this problem (the screeching and fluctuating boost,) was present before all that

[Tahoe3.0]

Are there any differences in my late 2004 fuel tank compared to earlier b6’s that will prevent me from using a walbro 450?

[old guy]

Those are the codes I have at the moment. When driving, partial throttle seems like full boost

That sounds a bit like a faulty N75 boost pressure solenoid. It the N75 is stuck open the ECU will no longer be able to control the boost pressure. Consequently as soon as you start to accelerate it will go to maximum boost.

Closely check the lines going to and from the N75. If you have access to VCDS you can perform an output test to make sure it opens and closes properly.

[Hightekflytech]

That sounds a bit like a faulty N75 boost pressure solenoid. It the N75 is stuck open the ECU will no longer be able to control the boost pressure. Consequently as soon as you start to accelerate it will go to maximum boost.

Closely check the lines going to and from the N75. If you have access to VCDS you can perform an output test to make sure it opens and closes properly.

I do have vcds
How do I go about testing that?
I’m also wondering where the screeching noise is coming from

[old guy]

To implement the test go to the engine section in VCDS. Go to measuring blocks, go to channel 11, and then choose basic mode to start the test. The N75 should switch back and forth - about 10 sec on, 10 sec off. You should hear a 'clicking' of the N75 when it switches.

While doing this you can also provide pressure to the high pressure line going to the N75. You should be able to hear the air flow start and stop with the cycling of the solenoid.

When does the screeching occur? All the time or only under boost?

[Hightekflytech]

To implement the test go to the engine section in VCDS. Go to measuring blocks, go to channel 11, and then choose basic mode to start the test. The N75 should switch back and forth - about 10 sec on, 10 sec off. You should hear a 'clicking' of the N75 when it switches.

While doing this you can also provide pressure to the high pressure line going to the N75. You should be able to hear the air flow start and stop with the cycling of the solenoid.

When does the screeching occur? All the time or only under boost?

Got it
And more so under boost, full throttle

[Hightekflytech]

Got it
And more so under boost, full throttle

Ok so VCDS is telling me far more than what Carista has shown (of course) and here is the consensus. While driving the car this morning, I can hear the diverter valve opening while i'm driving regular (probably during boost) and not when I let off the gas if that means anything. I don't remember it doing that in the past or on any of my other Audi's (2 B6's and a B7)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Address 01: Engine Labels: 06B-909-518-AMB.LBL
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 909 518 AK HW: 8E0 909 018 A
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003
Software Coding: 0016711
Work Shop Code: WSC 87119 806 641192
VCID: 79F865CD336CB7829A-5124
11 Faults Found:

17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
P1426 - 004 - Open Circuit - MIL ON
17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)
P1432 - 004 - Open Circuit - MIL ON
17695 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
P1287 - 004 - Open Circuit
17522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2
P1114 - 008 - Internal Resistance too High - MIL ON
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P1340 - 002 - Incor. Correlation - Intermittent
16524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0140 - 004 - No Activity
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
16396 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake)
P0012 - 001 - Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded) - Intermittent
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 001 -
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
16523 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0139 - 004 - Response too Slow

Readiness: 0010 0001

[old guy]

For starters I'm pretty sure your timing is off. Thus the P0012 and the P1340.

If you have the DV hooked up directly to the intake manifold and not routed through the N249 the only way it can open under boost would be a defective DV or defective vacuum/boost signal line. It is being held closed by the spring pressure plus the boost pressure on the diaphragm. Either the diaphragm is split or the DV isn't receiving the full manifold pressure signal through the vacuum/boost line.

[Hightekflytech]

For starters I'm pretty sure your timing is off. Thus the P0012 and the P1340.

If you have the DV hooked up directly to the intake manifold and not routed through the N249 the only way it can open under boost would be a defective DV or defective vacuum/boost signal line. It is being held closed by the spring pressure plus the boost pressure on the diaphragm. Either the diaphragm is split or the DV isn't receiving the full manifold pressure signal through the vacuum/boost line.

I thought my timing was off as well but I triple checked it this past weekend and everything was tdc, the car isn't idling funny or anything.
So the line from the intake manifold to the diverter valve could be bad?

[old guy]

Did you also check the timing between the exhaust cam in the intake cam? I suspect that is where you are off.

And yes, double check the line to your diverter valve.

[Hightekflytech]

Did you also check the timing between the exhaust cam in the intake cam? I suspect that is where you are off.

And yes, double check the line to your diverter valve.

Yes, I recently had my chain tensioner replaced and there was 16 links between the gears (iirc that's what its supposed to be). I just pulled off the line to the diverter valve and it looks fine as well. blew in it to make sure it wasn't blocked anywhere as well. I'm pretty stumped at this point

[old guy]

There should be 16 links between the cam notches, not the cam cap pointers. Are you sure you have 16 between the cam notches?
Reset all of your codes and see if the two cam codes come back.

[old guy]

And if your DV is good and the line is good what you are hearing is probably not the DV. You are losing boost from somewhere else.

[Hightekflytech]

And if your DV is good and the line is good what you are hearing is probably not the DV. You are losing boost from somewhere else.

And that is why I’m stumped, the boost leak test didn’t find much

There should be 16 links between the cam notches, not the cam cap pointers. Are you sure you have 16 between the cam notches?
Reset all of your codes and see if the two cam codes come back.

The cam notches were on here correct?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200618/d97fa25a5b5c200dbbf223ceb39df388.jpg
(Not my car but used for reference)

[old guy]

Ignore the pointers on the cam caps. Align to the cam notches.

https://i.imgur.com/ZNnOS3P.jpg

[Hightekflytech]

And if your DV is good and the line is good what you are hearing is probably not the DV. You are losing boost from somewhere else.

And that is why I’m stumped, the boost leak test didn’t find much

There should be 16 links between the cam notches, not the cam cap pointers. Are you sure you have 16 between the cam notches?
Reset all of your codes and see if the two cam codes come back.

The cam notches were on here correct?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200618/d97fa25a5b5c200dbbf223ceb39df388.jpg
(Not my car but used for reference)

[Hightekflytech]

Ignore the pointers on the cam caps. Align to the cam notches.

https://i.imgur.com/ZNnOS3P.jpg

Got it
I’ll double check that

[old guy]

That pic appears to be correct. However, in the thread you pulled it from the cam gear was off by one tooth from the crank gear.

[lunder03]

Odd sound...A4 b6 when key is placed to “ON” position...normal, not normal? Possible issue?

Listen for the click, click, click sound...it’s fast...it’s almost an electrical sound, but because I don’t know what it is and cannot really tell exactly where it is, been hard solving and I do not know if it’s normal. You’ll have to listen for it in between door chimes...it only ever does it once per cycle.

Location: under dash drivers side close to ecu which the sound can be heard near ecu from outside the car.

Thank you to any and all.

Please see YouTube link below.

https://youtu.be/p2jA2FNLtos


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[a1rh3adSz]

Had a weird issue today, first time that has ever happened. Car sat for 5 days, don't think it matters but throwing it out there. This morning went to go start the car, crank the keys and no start but the car kept on cranking so i stopped and try again, same issue long crank and no start. This went on for maybe a couple of mins. I literally crank it to start maybe at least 7-10 times, each time i held it for maybe a couple of sec to see if it would start. In between i would prime it and i also heard the priming. So finally it would crank over but it will die right away, this happen 2 more times. I then gave it gas and rev it a couple of times and finally it would idle. I then shut off the car and started again and it would start up no problem..... car idles fine no cel, dont have Vag to scan. Car also drove fine.

any clue as to why this would happen?

[Hightekflytech]

Sounds fuel related
Possibly the filter or fuel pump
Anyone else can chime in on this?

[a1rh3adSz]

Sounds fuel related
Possibly the filter or fuel pump
Anyone else can chime in on this?

Could it be bad gas? LOL had filled her up a week before. I changed out the fuel filter 2 years ago with a new oem one.
I started the car today and it was fine no issue at all.

[Dr.B6Banter]

Could it be bad gas? LOL had filled her up a week before. I changed out the fuel filter 2 years ago with a new oem one.
I started the car today and it was fine no issue at all.

You shouldn't have to worry about gas going bad that quickly... My current a4 sat in a guy's back yard for over a year with half a tank of gas after it skipped timing. After swapping the engine and priming the fuel system it started after just a few rotations and idled fine.

If there was enough of a restriction in the fuel system to require that many primes to start it would never be able to idle normally and start up again normally thereafter.

I've seen guys with cracked heads have issues with coolant seeping into the combustion chambers after the car sat for a while causing issues with the cold start but that was also accompanied by a lot of white smoke and misfires, neither of which you're facing...

[Dr.B6Banter]

I'm about 75% sure I already know the answer, but could a sports suspension rear strut be replaced with a standard strut while the sports suspension spring remains in place? I'm assuming if the answer was yes they would come from the factory with a lower spring and the same strut, and the fact that they don't would indicate the shorter spring would blow out a normal height strut.

I'm able to bounce the rear of the car just by pushing the trunk up and down more than I think I should be able to so I think the rear struts are on their way out. The end goal is to get a proper lowering spring and performance strut setup, but I plan on saving that for next summer.

[hightime80]

I m not so sure about that. I have an 02 sport suspension which is the lowest factory springs. I think the red shocks/struts might be damped differently vs. Overall length. Or it could be just a gimmick from Hell lol. I currently have bilstein b4s on my setup which on the rears doesn't specify sport/normal suspension usage. It's been on there for 3 years without issues.
Either way they are easy enuf to change so just throw caution to the wind and change it out.

[Dr.B6Banter]

I m not so sure about that. I have an 02 sport suspension which is the lowest factory springs. I think the red shocks/struts might be damped differently vs. Overall length. Or it could be just a gimmick from Hell lol. I currently have bilstein b4s on my setup which on the rears doesn't specify sport/normal suspension usage. It's been on there for 3 years without issues.
Either way they are easy enuf to change so just throw caution to the wind and change it out.

Yeah, I've got an 02' too. It sits a lot lower in the rear than the front which I've heard is a common thing for them to do. It's a little more executed on my car with the five-speed swap since I believe the front spring-rate is set up for the weight of the auto trans which is probably a god 50-100lb heavier than the manual.

Are you using the Bilstein struts with the sports suspension springs in the rear?

[hightime80]

Yeah, I've got an 02' too. It sits a lot lower in the rear than the front which I've heard is a common thing for them to do. It's a little more executed on my car with the five-speed swap since I believe the front spring-rate is set up for the weight of the auto trans which is probably a god 50-100lb heavier than the manual.

Are you using the Bilstein struts with the sports suspension springs in the rear?

Front and rear. To be technical the rears are shocks lol 😝
Mine has a bit of a reverse rake but not really noticeable.
2004 6 speed with pirated 02 springs.
https://i.ibb.co/6sHBzLS/20180916-125451-HDR.jpg (https://ibb.co/Lpx5mHy)

[Deerhurst]

Rears are shocks, not struts. It appears to be more like a trailing arm in the rear from the 10 seconds I spent looking at it.


You should have no problem putting non sports shocks in there if the bodies are the same length.

The sports valving is different and tuned for the springs it uses. It'll feel off with standard shocks.

I went with Koni Sport adjustables on my 03 with sports. 70% front and 50% rear seems to work nice so far.

My Avant also sits rear low. Probably just due to age and wear.

Personally, I would recommend just changing all 4 shocks to keep things consistent. It's also what I did. My rears were bouncy. Come to find out all 4 were wasted so it's a good thing I got a full set.

[Dr.B6Banter]

Rears are shocks, not struts. It appears to be more like a trailing arm in the rear from the 10 seconds I spent looking at it.


You should have no problem putting non sports shocks in there if the bodies are the same length.

The sports valving is different and tuned for the springs it uses. It'll feel off with standard shocks.

I went with Koni Sport adjustables on my 03 with sports. 70% front and 50% rear seems to work nice so far.

My Avant also sits rear low. Probably just due to age and wear.

Personally, I would recommend just changing all 4 shocks to keep things consistent. It's also what I did. My rears were bouncy. Come to find out all 4 were wasted so it's a good thing I got a full set.

Yeah, the plan is definitely to refresh most of the suspension. The engine and 5 speed conversion saga this summer and the subsequent "working out the bugs" period has taken a decent chunk of time and money so I was planning on saving it till next year when I can do it properly.

I will check the length of the normal shocks compared to the sport shocks and if they are similar I will use them in the rear to get me through the winter. I don't notice the rear of the car bounce while driving but it noticably oscillates a couple of times before returning to level when I push it down with my hands so it is probably on its way out.

[BerlinerB6]

Yeah, the plan is definitely to refresh most of the suspension. The engine and 5 speed conversion saga this summer and the subsequent "working out the bugs" period has taken a decent chunk of time and money so I was planning on saving it till next year when I can do it properly.

I will check the length of the normal shocks compared to the sport shocks and if they are similar I will use them in the rear to get me through the winter. I don't notice the rear of the car bounce while driving but it noticably oscillates a couple of times before returning to level when I push it down with my hands so it is probably on its way out.Fwiw, my 04 Avant came with worn-out sport suspension. I got the dealer to at least change out the rear shocks since they were leaking. They used Bilstein B4s (I think? Whichever are the non-sport ones). Ride height looks normal to me with the sport springs still in there, and there's no bounce in back unless I hit a bump going round a bend. But that may just be worn-out bushings.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[Kevin C]

The A4 B6 has shocks on all four corners, they are not struts, the fronts would be classified as coilover shocks. They look like a strut and are sometimes called that but they are not the upper pivot point (that's why there are two upper control arms) so there are "just" a form of coil over shock.

FYI, a damper that is a suspension component that serves as a linkage point is a strut (if you take it out you lose steering or the wheel splays out). Macpherson struts are an example, its the upper pivot point and has an upper bearing, its body and bushings locate the wheel.

https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5260/~/what%E2%80%99s-the-difference-between-shocks%2C-struts%2C-and-coilovers%3F

[hightime80]

The A4 B6 has shocks on all four corners, they are not struts, the fronts would be classified as coilover shocks. They look like a strut and are sometimes called that but they are not the upper pivot point (that's why there are two upper control arms) so there are "just" a form of coil over shock.

FYI, a damper that is a suspension component that serves as a linkage point is a strut (if you take it out you lose steering or the wheel splays out). Macpherson struts are an example, its the upper pivot point and has an upper bearing, its body and bushings locate the wheel.

https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5260/~/what%E2%80%99s-the-difference-between-shocks%2C-struts%2C-and-coilovers%3F
Good point. I forgot those front suckers had forks in them. Definitely not struts. I think i been working on my TT for too long lol.

[Kevin C]

If I remember right even the factory calls them struts in a few parts callouts. Yea, kind of confusing.

[Hightekflytech]

I’ve been searching for the proper video or thread on how to properly adjust the wastegate on a k03/k04 and came up with confusing results. I kno you’re supposed to use a compressor to the wastegate set to 5psi but is it supposed to be fully open at 5 psi or just open enough to spin the door a little?

[old guy]

I’ve been searching for the proper video or thread on how to properly adjust the wastegate on a k03/k04 and came up with confusing results. I kno you’re supposed to use a compressor to the wastegate set to 5psi but is it supposed to be fully open at 5 psi or just open enough to spin the door a little?

Crack pressure is when the flapper just starts to spin.

[Hightekflytech]

Crack pressure is when the flapper just starts to spin.

So set it to 5 psi for the cracked pressure and tighten it up?

[old guy]

So set it to 5 psi for the cracked pressure and tighten it up?

Stock or tuned? K03 or K04?

[Hightekflytech]

Stock or tuned? K03 or K04?

Tuned and k04
I’m supposed to be at 20 psi
Reflect tuned ecu

[old guy]

Tuned and k04
I’m supposed to be at 20 psi
Reflect tuned ecu

I would set the crack pressure a little higher. 6 or 7 psi. I am running a very conservative tune with my F21L and my crack pressure is at 6 psi.

[Hightekflytech]

I would set the crack pressure a little higher. 6 or 7 psi. I am running a very conservative tune with my F21L and my crack pressure is at 6 psi.

Old guy does it again
Thank you sir

[fR3ZNO]

When I installed my rear view camera I tapped into the reverse light circuit for power and then used the common ground wire for the tail lights. I've now started getting a bulb out warning for the left brake light... not sure why that is. Any ideas? Should I try ground to the chassis instead?

I'm guessing it has something to do with the ground? I need to check to make sure the bulb is seated in the carrier because I took it out to probe the circuit and determine what one was the reverse.

[crazyquik22023]

When I installed my rear view camera I tapped into the reverse light circuit for power and then used the common ground wire for the tail lights. I've now started getting a bulb out warning for the left brake light... not sure why that is. Any ideas? Should I try ground to the chassis instead?

I'm guessing it has something to do with the ground? I need to check to make sure the bulb is seated in the carrier because I took it out to probe the circuit and determine what one was the reverse.

Assuming the bulb is seated correctly and that is not your issue, I would use a different ground. Could use a chassis ground or a ground from a different circuit. Adding the camera ground to that circuit possibly threw off the resistance value the CCM uses to determine if the bulb is lit or not.

[Hightekflytech]

Assuming the bulb is seated correctly and that is not your issue, I would use a different ground. Could use a chassis ground or a ground from a different circuit. Adding the camera ground to that circuit possibly threw off the resistance value the CCM uses to determine if the bulb is lit or not.

+1 this
These systems are very resistance sensitive, that’s probably the case. I have mine hooked up to a chassis ground

[fR3ZNO]

Assuming the bulb is seated correctly and that is not your issue, I would use a different ground. Could use a chassis ground or a ground from a different circuit. Adding the camera ground to that circuit possibly threw off the resistance value the CCM uses to determine if the bulb is lit or not.


+1 this
These systems are very resistance sensitive, that’s probably the case. I have mine hooked up to a chassis ground

Thanks guys. It's weird because initially it was fine and no errors. It wasn't until the second time or so I took it for a drive that the error started showing up, now it's a constant thing.

I'll check it out and try connecting it to a different ground.

[Deerhurst]

I've found that it sometimes takes the car a little bit to find an issue and sometimes it can get away with masking it for a little while. Had a similar thing happen with an improperly wired headlight. Car masked the issue for a while then it attempted to fix the issue then it just ended up complaining about it by throwing a bulb out warning for the WRONG bulb.

[Random citizen]

It does the same for my car I think its normal if not be both need help

[Random citizen]

Odd sound...A4 b6 when key is placed to “ON” position...normal, not normal? Possible issue?

Listen for the click, click, click sound...it’s fast...it’s almost an electrical sound, but because I don’t know what it is and cannot really tell exactly where it is, been hard solving and I do not know if it’s normal. You’ll have to listen for it in between door chimes...it only ever does it once per cycle.

Location: under dash drivers side close to ecu which the sound can be heard near ecu from outside the car.

Thank you to any and all.

Please see YouTube link below.

https://youtu.be/p2jA2FNLtos


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIts does the same thing for me I think its normal if not we both need help

[fR3ZNO]

Thanks guys. It's weird because initially it was fine and no errors. It wasn't until the second time or so I took it for a drive that the error started showing up, now it's a constant thing.

I'll check it out and try connecting it to a different ground.

Update on this little issue. It ended up being the bulb (sorta). You could see where the contact on the bulb had been worn down and the terminal had some wear too... but it was still making a connection. Until I removed the bulb and put it back, which then messed up the connection between the bulb and the terminal. The filament in the bulb was actually still good.

https://i.imgur.com/ThLgTXh.jpg

[jco897j]

I removed my SAI some time ago but never got a code for it. Is there any particular reason I wouldn't get one?


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[hightime80]

I removed my SAI some time ago but never got a code for it. Is there any particular reason I wouldn't get one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dumb luck? Lol 😆
Perhaps you have a tune that you are not aware of which the SAI is coded out.

[jco897j]

Dumb luck? Lol [emoji38]
Perhaps you have a tune that you are not aware of which the SAI is coded out.

It is odd. At one point while it was in, I had a code for it for flow or something. But I put in a test pipe because my cat was bad so I took the sai out and cleared my codes and it never came back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[hightime80]

It is odd. At one point while it was in, I had a code for it for flow or something. But I put in a test pipe because my cat was bad so I took the sai out and cleared my codes and it never came back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You jinxed it. It will kick a SAI code the next time you drive. The Audi God is a vengeful one😂

[SJorge3442]

Getting my car aligned tomorrow. Anyone have any preferences on front-wheel toe or should I just let them get it in spec? I remember Oldguy back in the day having a few recs, but I honestly cannot remember/find those posts.

[old guy]

Getting my car aligned tomorrow. Anyone have any preferences on front-wheel toe or should I just let them get it in spec? I remember Oldguy back in the day having a few recs, but I honestly cannot remember/find those posts.

Clicky click® (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/644245-Front-Alignment-Settings-For-Your-Lowered-B6-A4)

[SJorge3442]

Clicky click[emoji2400] (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/644245-Front-Alignment-Settings-For-Your-Lowered-B6-A4)Whoa! It's like you heard you're name get posted! Thanks! I forgot about the lowering of the tierod. I'm gonna take care of that tonight and then have the shop focus on getting close to 0 toe.

Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk

[Natejo91]

Anyone have any thoughts on the ECS catback system for the B7 (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/audi-b7-a4-20t-cat-back-exhaust-system-chrome-4-tips/010076ecs01kt3/)?
Looks to be a nice system and it sounds pretty good on their youtube demo video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtTYmjSc_L4).
My understanding of B6 vs B7 exhaust is that the only difference is the downpipe.
And if we used Kevin C's method to just add a little adapter plate for the lollipop mount then it should bolt right on.
My only question is that without the resonators will there be too much drone while cruising?
https://www.audizine.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=161268&d=1580666047

[jco897j]

What are the 8 bolt holes around the coil packs on top of the valve cover for?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jco897j]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200718/5edd7d236db46d530a8f47a5a974386e.jpg


Here you can see the holes I'm talking about.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[old guy]

http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4021/4467495719_dba64351ae_z.jpg

AEB engine.

[jco897j]

http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4021/4467495719_dba64351ae_z.jpg

AEB engine.

Gotcha. So they used the same valve cover?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[old guy]

Gotcha. So they used the same valve cover?




Yep

[jco897j]

Is there any way to reuse these brake hoses? Mine cracked and I pulled this one from the local pick a part and it has a 90 degree elbow at the end. Mine goes straight into the firewall. I need to get the elbow off the end and put my straight fitting on.

Thanks!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200719/a598b0d9696380d669bb418511353520.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nickdutter119]

Anyone ever have an Issue adjusting solowerk coilovers my rears are way too low and I can’t seem to get them to adjust they’re brand new so no corrosion and I even tried dropping the sub frame and removing the bottom of the shock and the adjustment perch is just spinning


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[fR3ZNO]

Anyone ever have an Issue adjusting solowerk coilovers my rears are way too low and I can’t seem to get them to adjust they’re brand new so no corrosion and I even tried dropping the sub frame and removing the bottom of the shock and the adjustment perch is just spinning


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

So the adjustment perch is just spinning, but not moving up or down the mount? Sounds like there's an issue with the threads.

[jco897j]

Does anybody have a picture of how much "a little" rtv on the corners of a valve cover gasket is?

Also, any other places other than the corners I should put the rtv?


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[customa4]

Does anybody have a picture of how much "a little" rtv on the corners of a valve cover gasket is?

Also, any other places other than the corners I should put the rtv?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a4_mk1/images/a4-2608.png

https://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a4_mk1/images/a4-2609.png

[Tahoe3.0]

for those of you who have installed diff inserts, how the hell did you get them to seat in the bushing housing? I spent about an hour last night trying to get one to slide in with no luck. I can only get it about halfway in with a prybar/socket on the end and using the sway bar for leverage (which is not the best spot but the other option is the spare tire well and that's a bad angle). I tried getting a longer bolt in there to crank it down but the correct length bolt just barely fits with the tire well in the way.

I ended up pulling it back out and reinstalling the oem bolt. Frustrating.

[fR3ZNO]

for those of you who have installed diff inserts, how the hell did you get them to seat in the bushing housing? I spent about an hour last night trying to get one to slide in with no luck. I can only get it about halfway in with a prybar/socket on the end and using the sway bar for leverage (which is not the best spot but the other option is the spare tire well and that's a bad angle). I tried getting a longer bolt in there to crank it down but the correct length bolt just barely fits with the tire well in the way.

I ended up pulling it back out and reinstalling the oem bolt. Frustrating.

Which one are you installing? It's been awhile since I installed mine but I did the 034 billet ones, it was a bit of a pain for sure. Make sure to lube them generously. I recall putting some pressure behind them as well in order to get the threads to catch and tighten them down.

[Tahoe3.0]

the ECS ones, they're polyurethane so they squish a bit which makes it that much harder to apply pressure.

I did use quite a bit of lube but I wonder if the voids are full of gunk still, I did my best to clean them out before I started but it's really tough to get a look inside the housings. Their instructions say to just apply even pressure and the insert will slide right in, which is a joke lol.

[Hightekflytech]

How is it that I’m still getting a p0234 code with my watergate adjusted to 6.5 psi ANd a manual boost controller turned all the way down? K04, tt injectors ANd eurocode stage 2 tune. Lines to the controller are fine

[SoundEfx]

Is there a detailed how to on taking out a 3.0 engine? There are tons of them for the 2.7TT for the B5.

[Hightekflytech]

How is it that I’m still getting a p0234 code with my watergate adjusted to 6.5 psi ANd a manual boost controller turned all the way down? K04, tt injectors ANd eurocode stage 2 tune. Lines to the controller are fine

I think I got it
I wired the MBC parallel with the n75
Now it’s time to dial in the right Psi

[Dr.B6Banter]

Ever since I installed my test pipe a couple of months back I've noticed a change in the sounde from the turbo when I'm in boost and I just figured it was because of the test pipe, but now that I think about it, the sound is very similar to the dreaded dentist drill noise that people normally associate with a diying turbo.

A video with a similar sound as what I hear in my car, allbeit not nearly as loud... I generally have to have my windows down and be city driving to hear the noise and it happens past 10psi.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHRPTibCjyI&feature=emb_title

The turbo behaves completely normally in the sense that it boosts as it should ( peak 20 psi and falls off to ~14psi at redline) and does not blow any smoke. I felt for shaft play when installing the test pipe and there was a bit of in and out play but no side to side play that I could feel. The blades on the compressor side also looked relatively normal last time I had the TIP off.

190534190535

Video of a pull from Last summer where the you can't really hear the turbo... Granted that was before the test pipe, and I don't notice a difference in power/ boost between now and then.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cQBWbYL86irstk_wX6PGsWPBotm73Pj4/view?usp=sharing

I've always wondered, what makes the dentist drill noise before a turbo blows? the bearings going bad? the compressor blades hitting the housing? Also are the k04-015 used in mk4 applications just clocked differently than in the Audi applications? There is one in the local classifieds but from the photos, it looks to be clocked differently.

[jgood2709]

Installed new brakes over the weekend. The fronts are B7 A4 calipers attached to B6 S4 carriers with the S4 345mm rotor. They bolted up just fine, but once driving I was getting some grinding noises – even when not braking. Pulled off the wheel and noticed how tight the clearance between the rotor and caliper was. Took the caliper off and noticed that the top of the rotor was lightly grinding away at the inside of the caliper. I've read that the B7 A4 front caliper is the same as the B6/7 S4, so I'm pretty confused here. Looks like it needs about 1-2mm more clearance. Has anyone run into this?

https://i.imgur.com/jnAhJpvl.jpg

[fR3ZNO]

Due to how the B7 caliper wraps around the rotor, I think the caliper would be different. But that is weird since the carrier should move the caliper out. Are you sure you have a S4 carrier?

For reference, this is the clearance I have between a B7 A4 caliper and 320mm rotor.

https://i.imgur.com/RUMT7ln.jpg

It's not bolted up so not exact, but gives you an idea. Should def have more clearance.

[jgood2709]

Yeah pretty sure they are the S4 carriers. I had a pair of B7 A4 carriers to compare with and they were clearly different. I was planning to swap to the B7 A4 setup until I read that I just needed S4 carriers to run the S4 rotor and pad. Thanks for the photo!

[SchmidtA4]

Alright folks, here's my dumb question of the day:

I've got a '03 A4 1.8T Quattro with the 5 speed, B6 A4 with a 5 speed. First gear is gone out of my tranny, and a couple other things are in need of work as well. I found a parts car and I just want to confirm compatibility of the transmission. The parts car is a '02 A4 1.8T Quattro also with a 5 speed 01A. From what I can tell online, it should be a perfect fit, but I can't find anything definitive. If a list of compatibile parts exists out there in the Ether, feel free to drop the link.

Is this just a drop and bolt tranny swap? Or will I need to modify wiring harnesses, get adapters, or do some screwing around in general to get it to chooch?

[Deerhurst]

Dumb question. O2 sensor standoffs.

Do the O2 sensors normally bolt directly into the exhaust pipe? My car has what looks to be 90 degree offsets on all 4 sensors. Normal or no?

[Dr.B6Banter]

Dumb question. O2 sensor standoffs.

Do the O2 sensors normally bolt directly into the exhaust pipe? My car has what looks to be 90 degree offsets on all 4 sensors. Normal or no?

Normally they are supposed to thread directly into the exhaust. It is somewhat common to use those type of 90-degree adapters for the secondary O2 sensor on the 1.8t after installing a test pipe to trick the ECU to think there is still a cat but I can't think of a reason this would be done to the primary O2 sensor as well.

[Dr.B6Banter]

Alright folks, here's my dumb question of the day:

I've got a '03 A4 1.8T Quattro with the 5 speed, B6 A4 with a 5 speed. First gear is gone out of my tranny, and a couple other things are in need of work as well. I found a parts car and I just want to confirm compatibility of the transmission. The parts car is a '02 A4 1.8T Quattro also with a 5 speed 01A. From what I can tell online, it should be a perfect fit, but I can't find anything definitive. If a list of compatibile parts exists out there in the Ether, feel free to drop the link.

Is this just a drop and bolt tranny swap? Or will I need to modify wiring harnesses, get adapters, or do some screwing around in general to get it to chooch?

I did the opposite in the sense that I took the 5-speed Quattro driveline from a 2003 and put it into a 2002 A4 without any issues. The 2002 A4 was also an auto and there weren't any issues using the trans cross member from the 2003 A4. I used the entire driveline from the 2003 including the engine so I didn't have to mess with the wiring, but I have heard that the 2002 cars have a speed sensor in the trans where the 2003 onwards use the speed signal from the ABS module. In your case I don't think that would cause any issue since your 2003 A4 already uses the speed signal from the ABS module.

As far as I know, the 5-speed trans is the same across the B6 generation so there shouldn't be any issues regarding different mounts or different gearing.

[Deerhurst]

Normally they are supposed to thread directly into the exhaust. It is somewhat common to use those type of 90-degree adapters for the secondary O2 sensor on the 1.8t after installing a test pipe to trick the ECU to think there is still a cat but I can't think of a reason this would be done to the primary O2 sensor as well.

Interesting. I believe my cats are still live but the car is also tuned. I'll have to take another look.

[SchmidtA4]

Thanks!

[a1rh3adSz]

If you dont connect your alternator power harness clip in, will there be any lights on the dashboard? such as the battery light?
can you start your car without an alternator?

for some reason my alternator harness clip doesnt click when plugged in, well im not sure if thats how it is but there is a slight gap.

[Dr.B6Banter]

If you dont connect your alternator power harness clip in, will there be any lights on the dashboard? such as the battery light?
can you start your car without an alternator?

for some reason my alternator harness clip doesnt click when plugged in, well im not sure if thats how it is but there is a slight gap.

The car will start and run fine as long as the battery is healthy but that small wire harness that clips into the back of the alternator is used to energize the alternator's windings and get it to start charging the battery. If that clip comes out while you're driving the alternator should continue charging but if it is disconnected before you start the car it won't start charging.

The dummy battery light on the dash also requires that wire to be connected, so if it comes loose while driving the light won't come on, however, if the engine isn't on the battery light should be lit and if it isn't, you know the connector is loose.

I'm not the best at explaining but you should get the general idea lol

[a1rh3adSz]

The car will start and run fine as long as the battery is healthy but that small wire harness that clips into the back of the alternator is used to energize the alternator's windings and get it to start charging the battery. If that clip comes out while you're driving the alternator should continue charging but if it is disconnected before you start the car it won't start charging.

The dummy battery light on the dash also requires that wire to be connected, so if it comes loose while driving the light won't come on, however, if the engine isn't on the battery light should be lit and if it isn't, you know the connector is loose.

I'm not the best at explaining but you should get the general idea lol

thanks [:)]

[Dr.B6Banter]

TLDR; Replaced my k04 because of the noise I described a few posts up and I have had overbossting issues since (26psi indicated on a boost gauge that under reads [o_o])

Any recomended course of action in diagnosing overboosting/ boost spikes other than inspecting all the N75 lines and verifying ~5psi with N75 disconnected? Replaced the line between the compressor housing and N75 because it looked a bit suspect, and line going to wastegate from N75 looked fine.

My VCDS cable recently stopped working too so I have not been able to check codes/ log wastegate duty cycle.

I'm going to drive around with the N75 valve unplugged because I don't want to window the block trying to pass someone on the highway lol

191917

[fR3ZNO]

I'd check and see if the wastegate actuator cracks at 6~ psi (although disconnecting N75 should do the same thing), also make sure it holds pressure/vacuum. I had some overboost issues because the actuator was leaking, which prevented the wastegate from opening when it should.

[Dr.B6Banter]

I'd check and see if the wastegate actuator cracks at 6~ psi (although disconnecting N75 should do the same thing), also make sure it holds pressure/vacuum. I had some overboost issues because the actuator was leaking, which prevented the wastegate from opening when it should.

Yeah I’ve been driving with the n75 electrical connector unplugged And it makes around 5psi all the way to redline so in my mind that would rule out any issues with the wastegate and or actuator? There was once yesterday where the boost crept a little past 5 psi right after a shift at redline from 3rd to 4th I think. Not really sure what would cause that but it only went up to maybe 8 or 9 psi.

As far as I understand the n75 sends boost pressure to the wg actuator to open it and when it’s connector is plugged in the ecu controls how much boost pressure gets driverted to the TIP to manage when to open/close the wg. Could a bad N75 behave normally when unplugged but not react properly/ quickly enough when connected? I know it’s not a tuning thing since logs of measuring block 115 I did before my vcds cable broke showed requested boost to be 21psi at 3k tapering to 18psi at redline.

Not sure if the tune on the car is intended for use with a high flow cast manifold because that’s what was on the motor when I got it but I recently took it off and went back to stock since it cracked. Not sure if that would effect anything since the requested boost looks normal

[fR3ZNO]

Yeah I’ve been driving with the n75 electrical connector unplugged And it makes around 5psi all the way to redline so in my mind that would rule out any issues with the wastegate and or actuator? There was once yesterday where the boost crept a little past 5 psi right after a shift at redline from 3rd to 4th I think. Not really sure what would cause that but it only went up to maybe 8 or 9 psi.

As far as I understand the n75 sends boost pressure to the wg actuator to open it and when it’s connector is plugged in the ecu controls how much boost pressure gets driverted to the TIP to manage when to open/close the wg. Could a bad N75 behave normally when unplugged but not react properly/ quickly enough when connected? I know it’s not a tuning thing since logs of measuring block 115 I did before my vcds cable broke showed requested boost to be 21psi at 3k tapering to 18psi at redline.

Not sure if the tune on the car is intended for use with a high flow cast manifold because that’s what was on the motor when I got it but I recently took it off and went back to stock since it cracked. Not sure if that would effect anything since the requested boost looks normal

FWIW, I did the same thing when I was diagnosing the issue. With the N75 unplugged, it would build about 5psi. I think the leak was small enough that while driving there was enough air flow to build pressure. Hence why I tested it with a hand pump on the car and found the leak. Idk how common a bad WG actuator is, but it's something to check. I know it drove me nuts trying to figure it out.

My overboost issue was bad enough that it would go into limp mode with some moderate load and boost...

If the N75 is unplugged it will just run off WG spring pressure, which gives you the 5psi of boost. If that's what you mean by normal. Since the N75 is unplugged, it can't divert boost pressure to the TIP and it just goes straight to the WG actuator.

[Dr.B6Banter]

FWIW, I did the same thing when I was diagnosing the issue. With the N75 unplugged, it would build about 5psi. I think the leak was small enough that while driving there was enough air flow to build pressure. Hence why I tested it with a hand pump on the car and found the leak. Idk how common a bad WG actuator is, but it's something to check. I know it drove me nuts trying to figure it out.

My overboost issue was bad enough that it would go into limp mode with some moderate load and boost...

If the N75 is unplugged it will just run off WG spring pressure, which gives you the 5psi of boost. If that's what you mean by normal. Since the N75 is unplugged, it can't divert boost pressure to the TIP and it just goes straight to the WG actuator.

Interesting. I’ll have to check that.

If the leak is enough to cause boost spikes when the n75 is connected but small enough that the turbo only builds 5psi with the n75 unplugged shouldn’t the ecu just request a higher duty cycle from the n75 to compensate for the leak? I don’t think there any preset tables for the n75 so the ecu recursively corrects its duty cycle to reach and maintain requested boost if I’m not mistaken.

I was considering putting the known good wg actuator from my old k04 onto this one for this specific reason but didn’t bother. Doesn’t look like something you can really replace with the turbo in the car since there isn’t much room around where the actuator threads into the flapper arm.

[fR3ZNO]

Interesting. I’ll have to check that.

I was considering putting the known good wg actuator from my old k04 onto this one for this specific reason but didn’t bother. Doesn’t look like something you can really replace with the turbo in the car since there isn’t much room around where the actuator threads into the flapper arm.

Nope, I don't think so. If you could do it on the car, I'm sure you'd spend more time than just pulling it and replacing the actuator on the bench. I ended up putting in a known good turbo and it's been fine ever since.

[kaleb.anderson]

Eying an 05 S4 steering wheel in the junk yard, anybody know if it's a direct plug and play b6 s4 to b6 a4? I know the b7 to b6 has been beaten to death but I really don't feel like getting into all that work

[Ol Dirty Noodle]

Doing coil overs, Rear upper control arm eccentric bolt is completely seized Will a bernzomatic torch be enough to heat it up sufficiently??? Impact and other methods have been unsuccessful thus far FML, even worse I managed to rip the old suspension out with the bolt still in place and there’s no way of getting the new spring in without getting this bolt out

[Deerhurst]

Try a combination of heat and PB Blaster. The soldering iron probably won't make enough BTUs. Worth a shot though.

[fR3ZNO]

Could also grab a MAPP Torch kit from Lowes or something. That should help heat it up. Although I would think the bolt is seized to the bushing which will likely be destroyed once you get the bolt out.

[Ol Dirty Noodle]

Could also grab a MAPP Torch kit from Lowes or something. That should help heat it up. Although I would think the bolt is seized to the bushing which will likely be destroyed once you get the bolt out.

Yea a mapp torch is what I was referring to, I’ll replace the bushing but that bolts gotta go either way

[alimo20]

when a part number is listed as "superseded" does that mean i can just drop in replace it without any worry? I have a 02 and the FCM 8E0959501D has been replaced by 8E0959501AG .. safe enough even though the part numbers don't match?

[Spike00513]

when a part number is listed as "superseded" does that mean i can just drop in replace it without any worry? I have a 02 and the FCM 8E0959501D has been replaced by 8E0959501AG .. safe enough even though the part numbers don't match?

Superseded means newer revised updated, usually with a different suffix letter at the end of the part number that is later on in the alphabet, such as A going to B.
Usually the "latest greatest" (plastic failure-prone part)

But at the end of the day, if it's the correct part number, whether it's version "2.0" or "3.0", what does it matter so long as the part works
usually it's binary, yes or no
either the part works or it doesn't

probably means they're getting rid of the old supply/no longer selling it/no longer using it

[SJorge3442]

Anyone ever clean a 3.0 intake manifold? My ports are CAKED with oil residue from 170k miles of driving and I wanna clean it up since its off the engine currently. I'm thinking of pulling the intake actuator out and soaking the rest of the intake in degreaser then rinsing? Any other options?

[fR3ZNO]

Yea a mapp torch is what I was referring to, I’ll replace the bushing but that bolts gotta go either way

Ah, Deerhurst mentioned soldering iron torch so I was confused, lol.

Could also cut the bolt instead of trying to get it out.

[Ol Dirty Noodle]

Ah, Deerhurst mentioned soldering iron torch so I was confused, lol.

Could also cut the bolt instead of trying to get it out.

Unfortunately I don’t even have enough room to cut the head off, bolt is tight to the hub and nothings been able to get between them thus far. I got the torch but it was down pouring by the time I got home, I’m also picking up a compressor and air hammer and I’m just gonna replace every nut, bolt, washer and bushing in the front and put all new bushings in my rear upper control arms.

Then I’m getting a tattoo of a pinch bolt with a banner saying FUCK YOU DIE wrapped around it.

[V70R]

Anyone ever clean a 3.0 intake manifold? My ports are CAKED with oil residue from 170k miles of driving and I wanna clean it up since its off the engine currently. I'm thinking of pulling the intake actuator out and soaking the rest of the intake in degreaser then rinsing? Any other options?

I’d soak the ports with dawn and water and let it sit for awhile. Dawn isn’t harmful to plastics like many degreasers and is highly effective on breaking down hydrocarbons without much effort. While you have it apart check out the condition of your crankcase breather setup and narrow down if this is the culprit to extra oil entering your intake system.

[Deerhurst]

Ah, Deerhurst mentioned soldering iron torch so I was confused, lol.

Could also cut the bolt instead of trying to get it out.

He said butane and the little torches are by far the most common. It's still hot enough to melt aluminum but those little guys dont have enough oomph for big stuff.

I don't think I've ever seen a large butane torch. Just the little soldering iron ones.

[Ol Dirty Noodle]

He said butane and the little torches are by far the most common. It's still hot enough to melt aluminum but those little guys dont have enough oomph for big stuff.

I don't think I've ever seen a large butane torch. Just the little soldering iron ones.

Bernzomatic is just a brand I mentioned, I was referring to their map torch, which worked enough for me to get enough space to just cut the head of the bolt off. Bushing was fucked so that’s getting replaced to but the new suspensions and I’ll have the new bushing in a couple days, in the meantime I’m moving onto the fronts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200827/4b96b87e7f2f25e33e607824ceecdaa3.jpg

[Deerhurst]

Around me bernzomatic is known for little butane soldering iron kits.

Glad you got it out!

[a1rh3adSz]

while doing my rear brakes, i removed the ebrake cable from where the ball sits inside that little bracket. Thought it would give me some room to remove the caliper bolt but ended up not needing too, what a failed. LOL
Now i am having a hard time grabbing the ball end cable and placing it back into that little bracket. Even with a pry bar pushing down on the spring bracket. The ebrake handle is in the down position, What can i do?

[BerlinerB6]

while doing my rear brakes, i removed the ebrake cable from where the ball sits inside that little bracket. Thought it would give me some room to remove the caliper bolt but ended up not needing too, what a failed. LOL
Now i am having a hard time grabbing the ball end cable and placing it back into that little bracket. Even with a pry bar pushing down on the spring bracket. The ebrake handle is in the down position, What can i do?

I ended up using vise grips on mine to keep the ebrakes compressed while getting the ball end seated. You can also remove the spring to make it easier. If you're having a hard time pulling the ball end far enough to seat, the cables might be seizing inside the sleeves.

Sent from my IN2015 using Tapatalk

[Kevin C]

Around me bernzomatic is known for little butane soldering iron kits.

Glad you got it out!

I bough this guy a few months ago at Home Depot. Awesome for soldering and super easy to use. Not too bad for burning out bushings either.

https://www.bernzomatic.com/getattachment/Products/Hand-Torches/Instant-On-Off/TS8000/Bernzomatic_TS8000_torch_03.jpg.aspx?maxsidesize=1 000



https://www.bernzomatic.com/Products/Hand-Torches/Instant-On-Off/TS8000

[Deerhurst]

Should be a good brazing tool too! Those torches are a good investment!

[fR3ZNO]

I bough this guy a few months ago at Home Depot. Awesome for soldering and super easy to use. Not too bad for burning out bushings either.

Yep, that's exactly what I bought a few weeks ago at Lowe's when I was doing the rear brakes. Those carrier bolts are a bitch, lol.

[Kevin C]

Should be a good brazing tool too! Those torches are a good investment!

I also have their mini oxy- mapp torch. Great when you need it but the cost of the oxygen cylinders is tough to take. I still have my full set of oxy-acetylene torches from way back when but I'm hesitant to get a set of tanks. This weekend I was going a fuel pump pickup for my other car and I had a choice to braze or tig. The Mapp will definitely braze but it heats a lot of area, not as fine as a dual gas setup but it will work. I figured my tig skills are getting good enough that I tiged the fuel screen bracket onto the pickup tube. I got it done without burning a hole in the tube. It was great to do, I would have been super sad if I burned up my new parts.

For plumbing soldering the torch is awesome. I'm planning on adding heat to the garage this winter and this should help out a lot with the hydronic plumbing.

[a1rh3adSz]

I ended up using vise grips on mine to keep the ebrakes compressed while getting the ball end seated. You can also remove the spring to make it easier. If you're having a hard time pulling the ball end far enough to seat, the cables might be seizing inside the sleeves.

Sent from my IN2015 using Tapatalk

I had the ebrake handle disengaged and i dont think the cable is seized because i am able to use a plier and grab the end of the cable where the ball ends is at and was able to pull it up a little. I just need it to go up a bit more to slide right over the bracket.