questions you thought were too dumb to ask

[WB650]

What would be the cause of Multiple random/cyl 4 misfire occasionally, like every 3-5 weeks, on cold start?

Head replaced due to cracking back in Feb, plugs replaced with it. Misfire started about 2 weeks after I got the car back.

Front O2 sensor was just replaced about 2 weeks ago.

Coil harness was replaced with a used but good condition set right before head was replaced

Coils are the R8 and less than a year old

[old guy]

If it only occurs on a cold start it could be related to the rear coolant temperature sensor. Do you have the ability to monitor the sensor reading?

[cschuster]

I've got a faint, high pitched, whistling kinda sound that happens only when I am engine braking. If I press in the clutch, the sound disappears with the falling rpm. It also instantly disappears upon acceleration. Any ideas? Disclaimer: 3.0, not 1.8!

[WB650]

If it only occurs on a cold start it could be related to the rear coolant temperature sensor. Do you have the ability to monitor the sensor reading?

Don't have VAGCOM, I have the cheap eBay cable and have the old VCDS that supposedly allows it full control but haven't installed on my laptop yet

I had that sensor replaced during my cooling system woes last winter, I knew it was bad after I picked it up from shop b/c my fan was running at cold start, they told me "we don't know what it is, monitor it" hour later it was badly misfiring when I started it so I took it back and told them what the issue was and they did it for free.

Me and Furly were thinking to try cleaning the MAF sensor

Need to do a vac leak test

How long should the SAI run for? The misfire doesn't hit til about 15-20 secs after cold start.

[Spike00513]

What happens if you install a clutch disc off-center?
http://image.popularhotrodding.com/f/25391680/0910phr_11_z+1966_ford_mustang+clutch_alignment_to ol.jpg

[old guy]

Don't have VAGCOM, I have the cheap eBay cable and have the old VCDS that supposedly allows it full control but haven't installed on my laptop yet

I had that sensor replaced during my cooling system woes last winter, I knew it was bad after I picked it up from shop b/c my fan was running at cold start, they told me "we don't know what it is, monitor it" hour later it was badly misfiring when I started it so I took it back and told them what the issue was and they did it for free.

Me and Furly were thinking to try cleaning the MAF sensor

Need to do a vac leak test

How long should the SAI run for? The misfire doesn't hit til about 15-20 secs after cold start.

Typically the SAI pump runs for approximately 60 seconds on a cold start. Also the intake cam advances 22° while the SAI pump is running. The timing advance initially runs very retarded and at 20 seconds it begins to advance. It sounds like that is the point where you are getting your misfires.

[old guy]

What happens if you install a clutch disc off-center?


You really can't install the disc off-center. The disc is going to center on the transmission input shaft. If it is off-center you will not be able to engage the input shaft into the pilot shaft bushing.

[GomegaK]

Question, I replaced the timing belt, tensioner, roller and waterpomp about 6 months ago. Now the waterpump is leaking. (Shop won't give new one since they say I should have flushed the system with a water hose. I just replaced the coolant.[emoji19]). So I will just replace the pump again. Or should I also replace the belt while I am at it?

[tchuck]

You really can't install the disc off-center. The disc is going to center on the transmission input shaft. If it is off-center you will not be able to engage the input shaft into the pilot shaft bushing.
Ie, you'll fight with mating the engine and trans for a half hour and when you finally give up you'll have to pull everything apart again, loosen the clutch disc, align it, torque it again, and proceed as usual.

[WB650]

Typically the SAI pump runs for approximately 60 seconds on a cold start. Also the intake cam advances 22° while the SAI pump is running. The timing advance initially runs very retarded and at 20 seconds it begins to advance. It sounds like that is the point where you are getting your misfires.
What would be the remedy?

[old guy]

What would be the remedy?

You mentioned "Multiple random/cyl 4 misfire occasionally, like every 3-5 weeks, on cold start". Is it cylinder 4 only or is it truly random?

[WB650]

You mentioned "Multiple random/cyl 4 misfire occasionally, like every 3-5 weeks, on cold start". Is it cylinder 4 only or is it truly random?
It was only cylinder 4, this past time my obd showed 2 codes but when it first displayed Random something happened and I couldn't view the codes so I just cleared them

[old guy]

It was only cylinder 4, this past time my obd showed 2 codes but when it first displayed Random something happened and I couldn't view the codes so I just cleared them

If it only occurs on cylinder 4 then you need to consider everything associated with that cylinder. You already replaced the coil packs, harness and plugs. I would suggest moving the fuel injector from cylinder 4 to cylinder 1 and see if the problem follows the injector or stays with cylinder 4.

[WB650]

If it only occurs on cylinder 4 then you need to consider everything associated with that cylinder. You already replaced the coil packs, harness and plugs. I would suggest moving the fuel injector from cylinder 4 to cylinder 1 and see if the problem follows the injector or stays with cylinder 4.
Will do! Thanks

[jpulll]

Im hearing of a special piston compression tool when doing brake jobs. When doing my brakes on other cars, for instance GM, i just use the good ole c-clamp. Is this special tool necessary or can i stay old school lol

[UofU_USP]

needed for rear calipers, the Harbor Freight kit works great and is cheap...and you can always rent it from Vato Zone, or return yours after. Some people also use the cube, and various other methods. I bought the kit and just kept it.

[customa4]

You can also rent the caliper tool from auto zone or advanced auto and just bring the tool back and get a full refund. They have you make a deposit for the full cost of the tool just in case you don't bring it back. When you do, you get all of your money back. I actually just rented mine from auto zone and will need to return it. I believe it's like maybe $50.

[TacticalSnuggie]

What is the difference between vagcom and a regular error code reader?

Is the vagcam just for audi's?

More functionality?

Why not a cheaper cable from ebay like one of the people posted above?

Which cables are recommended? something not over the top but enough for someone who will be looking to start working on their b6/a4 1.8

Thanks in advance :)

[DiertyEuroSpec]

What would be the cause of Multiple random/cyl 4 misfire occasionally, like every 3-5 weeks, on cold start?

Head replaced due to cracking back in Feb, plugs replaced with it. Misfire started about 2 weeks after I got the car back.

Front O2 sensor was just replaced about 2 weeks ago.

Coil harness was replaced with a used but good condition set right before head was replaced

Coils are the R8 and less than a year old

Hmmm sounds familiar. I replaced my head gasket due to a warped head (didn't know head was warped first time around just thought it was a HG failure) during the winter and then on the first cold start after the first hot day of the summer the car started misfiring again. This was because I did not get the head decked the first time. Was your replacement head machined for flatness, and did you verify it was completely flat with a straight edge and feeler gauges?

[customa4]

What is the difference between vagcom and a regular error code reader?

Is the vagcam just for audi's?

More functionality?

Why not a cheaper cable from ebay like one of the people posted above?

Which cables are recommended? something not over the top but enough for someone who will be looking to start working on their b6/a4 1.8

Thanks in advance :)

VagCom is capable of reading all modules on our cars. Regular error code readers do just that, they read codes and clear them. The problem with the generic ones is that cannot read all the modules. So if you have an auto transmission, you cannot read fault codes for it. Also if you have Xenon lights you will not be able to pick up any fault codes on a generic OBD scanner. You can also recode modules with vagcom if for instance your Central Electric Control Module needed to be replaced. Vagcom is an extremely useful tool for the tool box. Ask anyone on here that has it and they will tell you.

You do not need the over the top Ross-Tech cable that cost $350 unless you plan on working on newer Audi/VW models than the B6. The $250 option will work just fine. You will also be able to scan other OBDII cars with it as well, not just Audi/VW. There is just more capabilities with Audi/VW cars.

This cable will work just fine for your car. Click $249 (http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/VCuCAN.html)
If you feel like spending a few more bucks to get the cable that works on newer model Audi/VW's. Click $350 (http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/VCHUC.html)

People have had success with the knockoff cables but some here like to support a company that does a good job with the diagnostic software.

[Dubbed-Out]

I was just wondering if anyone with a B6 3.0 Who has upgraded their front brakes to B6/B7 S4 front brakes (345 x 30 rotors, calipers, SS brake lines etc.) Cares to share their personal experience & or opinion on the break swap. Setup stock 312 x 25 Vs. 345 x 30 S4 setup? Is it worth it? Or should I just go with the Porsche Cayenne bbk?

Also what are you guys thoughts on rear brake upgrade?

-Sthepen "Judd"

[Jermunji]

Anybody with an oem b6 roof rack willing to measure the width of it? I'm planning on DIY'ing my A3 rack to fit to length

[NickTerry]

Do my maths look about right for the diy toe adjustment? I started with 3/16 shorter in the front from the rear.

And should I do 3 full flats on the right side and only 2 on the left since there is a 5 degree difference right now

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/16/54f3ac62bebdbd4db0ce4d4b2d90f0e7.jpg

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[RRF985]

I'm getting conflicting information. How many transmissions mounts are there for the 02X 6-speed manual that is in my 2004? I've been told there is one, and I've also been told there are two.

[jaydeff]

I'm getting conflicting information. How many transmissions mounts are there for the 02X 6-speed manual that is in my 2004? I've been told there is one, and I've also been told there are two.

All manual transmission B6/B7 A4s have only one mount. The tiptronic transmission requires two and CVT requires only one as well.

[WB650]

Hmmm sounds familiar. I replaced my head gasket due to a warped head (didn't know head was warped first time around just thought it was a HG failure) during the winter and then on the first cold start after the first hot day of the summer the car started misfiring again. This was because I did not get the head decked the first time. Was your replacement head machined for flatness, and did you verify it was completely flat with a straight edge and feeler gauges?
It was bought remanufactured off eBay from a machine shop

[WB650]

If it only occurs on cylinder 4 then you need to consider everything associated with that cylinder. You already replaced the coil packs, harness and plugs. I would suggest moving the fuel injector from cylinder 4 to cylinder 1 and see if the problem follows the injector or stays with cylinder 4.
Furly suggested I buy some orings for the injectors before we do this. Should I buy a kit from ECS or would a kit from an auto parts store be fine?

[old guy]

Furly suggested I buy some orings for the injectors before we do this. Should I buy a kit from ECS or would a kit from an auto parts store be fine?

When I was running the Genesis 380"s I replace my "O" rings with a Sorensen kit from Autozone. They worked just fine.

[blitz2190]

Furly suggested I buy some orings for the injectors before we do this. Should I buy a kit from ECS or would a kit from an auto parts store be fine?

I got mine next day from napa I think they were oem, for like 5 bucks for the pack

[WB650]

I got mine next day from napa I think they were oem, for like 5 bucks for the pack
Thanks! Got a NAPA near my work

When I was running the Genesis 380"s I replace my "O" rings with a Sorensen kit from Autozone. They worked just fine.
Thanks. Hoping to get this done soon. No misfires since the other day

[old guy]

Do my maths look about right for the diy toe adjustment? I started with 3/16 shorter in the front from the rear.

And should I do 3 full flats on the right side and only 2 on the left since there is a 5 degree difference right now



Without a reference point for the length used to calculate the 3/16" I can't say. I assume you are using these guides: Clicky click® (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/456668-DIY-front-toe-settings) Clicky click 2 (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/644245-Front-Alignment-Settings-For-Your-Lowered-B6-A4)® You might have to read them a few times and think about it because I believe it will answer your questions.

As I mentioned in the DIY you need to pull your car onto a flat area where you will be taking the measurements and make sure the car and not the steering wheel is going straight forward. If the car is straight and the steering wheel is straight you need to make equal adjustment to both tie rods. If the steering wheel is offset you will need to compensate by making unequal adjustments. I outlined just such an adjustment in the DIY.

Read through it again and let me know if you still have questions. I commend you on taking the initiative to make your own alignment adjustments! [up]

[RRF985]

All manual transmission B6/B7 A4s have only one mount. The tiptronic transmission requires two and CVT requires only one as well.

Thank you very much.

[hgtuner08]

Are all exhausts the same after the downpipe. My downpipe flexpipe is coming apart and I bought a techtonics tuning downpipe for the tiptronic. I also wanted to step up to a milltek or AWE so will they be able to matchup after the DP or would I need to modify them

[fR3ZNO]

What tire size should I run for 17" in the winter? I want to keep it as close to the OEM tire size rolling diameter as possible, right now I have a set from the PO that is 205/55-16 which look kinda small on the B6. Tire Rack only pulls up three snow tires in 235/45. Plus I'd like something a little narrower for better traction.

I tried using a calculator, but the only size that is equal to the OEM rolling diameter is a 265/40.. haha.

[GomegaK]

Question, I replaced the timing belt, tensioner, roller and waterpomp about 6 months ago. Now the waterpump is leaking. (Shop won't give new one since they say I should have flushed the system with a water hose. I just replaced the coolant.[emoji19]). So I will just replace the pump again. Or should I also replace the belt while I am at it?

Additional question, who replaces the four bolts when remounting the damper pulley? Is that really necessary?

[Willënskraft]

Additional question, who replaces the four bolts when remounting the damper pulley? Is that really necessary?

I replaced mine since it was recommended and the Blaupart's kit came with the four bolts.

EDIT: Don't forget to use Loctite.

Sent from my iPhone in a secret volcano "lair"

[DiertyEuroSpec]

It was bought remanufactured off eBay from a machine shop
Without verifying everything yourself or by a different machine shop yhan the one that sold you the head you will never know if the head you put on was bad or not. I was just working on a car in which the owner purchased a used head in which was claimed to have been pressure tested, decked, even took photos of doing a straight line test and water over the valves, geuss what that head was total thrash. I reccomened the owner double check everything with an outside machine shop and the head did not pass pressure test and was .0019 warped. Point is one can claim anything on the internet, if its true or not is yet to be seen unless you see for yourself.

[customa4]

Are all exhausts the same after the downpipe. My downpipe flexpipe is coming apart and I bought a techtonics tuning downpipe for the tiptronic. I also wanted to step up to a milltek or AWE so will they be able to matchup after the DP or would I need to modify them

No, they are not all the same. Quattro and FWD have different exhaust systems. There's an X pipe on the quattro, not on the FWD cars. I'm not sure the differences between the 1.8T and 3.0 after the downpipe, maybe someone else can chime in.

[ZipMeUpJ]

Y pipe on the quattro after DP (1 in 2 out) , 3.0 has two DPs into x pipe (2 in 2 out)st

edit: actually I think stock 3.0 exhaust doesnt even cross over, may be wrong though, I know the s4 exhaust definitely does

[SJorge3442]

Y pipe on the quattro after DP (1 in 2 out) , 3.0 has two DPs into x pipe (2 in 2 out)st

edit: actually I think stock 3.0 exhaust doesnt even cross over, may be wrong though, I know the s4 exhaust definitely does
The only crossover on the 3.0 is the resonator. There's no legit x pipe on the stock system.

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[slark]

I've got a very intermittent coolant leak that will drop a single drop onto the cat every few days. I notice it because I smell it and I witnessed it once. Coolant flange?

[Spike00513]

Can the B6 tow a car?
If so, how?
http://images.quattroworld.com/proxy.svc/Images/Image?id=91f98c499e874eeeb3e086ad69c4e139.JPG

[fR3ZNO]

Can the B6 do this?
If so, how?

I'm assuming you're talking about being towed.

Yes, only if the driveshaft is disconnected from the rear diff. (or if it's FWD)

[blitz2190]

I've got a very intermittent coolant leak that will drop a single drop onto the cat every few days. I notice it because I smell it and I witnessed it once. Coolant flange?

in that area, most likely.

[fR3ZNO]

I've got a very intermittent coolant leak that will drop a single drop onto the cat every few days. I notice it because I smell it and I witnessed it once. Coolant flange?

Going by the info you have in "My Garage" I don't see how coolant could drip from the flange onto the cat. It could be the coolant port on the turbo that is leaking, I have a similar issue and I can see the small amount of smoking off of the turbo from that port.

[slark]

Going by the info you have in "My Garage" I don't see how coolant could drip from the flange onto the cat. It could be the coolant port on the turbo that is leaking, I have a similar issue and I can see the small amount of smoking off of the turbo from that port.

Nope I literally saw the drip fall on to the cat.

[GomegaK]

Question? Is it possible to remove the timing belt just by compressing the piston and install the locking plate? Without loosening the tensioner roller nut?

[Spike00513]

I'm assuming you're talking about being towed.

Yes, only if the driveshaft is disconnected from the rear diff. (or if it's FWD)

Sorry, meant to say -doing the towing-

[fR3ZNO]

Sorry, meant to say -doing the towing-

You can technically tow with anything, the weight is the only limiting factor. Haha. But in all seriousness, yeah probably just need a tow hitch / bar welded into the frame or something

[my1stturbo]

What's the best way to troubleshoot ac if working alone I'm the driveway? Kinda hard to hear if compressor comes on over the engine when hanging through the window. Figured it was 134 because my ECON light stays on, but I tried a over the counter type refill and it took some refrigerant (to 35 psi) but light didn't go off and no noticeable difference in temp.

[Knives1010]

What's the best way to troubleshoot ac if working alone I'm the driveway? Kinda hard to hear if compressor comes on over the engine when hanging through the window. Figured it was 134 because my ECON light stays on, but I tried a over the counter type refill and it took some refrigerant (to 35 psi) but light didn't go off and no noticeable difference in temp.
I'm not totally positive but I believe you can vagcom a stuck on econ light, you could see if someone in your area could help you out

[marriux1]

I have an '02 1.8T. My keyfob stopped working a while back, and when I changed the battery it still didn't work. I followed the million and one ways to try and resync it to my car. I went to my local auto parts store and used their fob tester and it wasn't receiving any signal from my key fob.
What I wanna know now is if that proves that my key fob died and I need to get a new key fob? Or should I try reprogramming it with a different method. I don't have a valet key so I was stuck doing the method where I put the key in the ignition... etc. Thanks guys!

[Blockis]

I have an '02 1.8T. My keyfob stopped working a while back, and when I changed the battery it still didn't work. I followed the million and one ways to try and resync it to my car. I went to my local auto parts store and used their fob tester and it wasn't receiving any signal from my key fob.
What I wanna know now is if that proves that my key fob died and I need to get a new key fob? Or should I try reprogramming it with a different method. I don't have a valet key so I was stuck doing the method where I put the key in the ignition... etc. Thanks guys!

Do you have VAGCOM?


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[marriux1]

Do you have VAGCOM?


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Nope :/ My mechanic does but I'm pretty sure he'll charge my just to find out what's going on [mad]

[Knives1010]

I have an '02 1.8T. My keyfob stopped working a while back, and when I changed the battery it still didn't work. I followed the million and one ways to try and resync it to my car. I went to my local auto parts store and used their fob tester and it wasn't receiving any signal from my key fob.
What I wanna know now is if that proves that my key fob died and I need to get a new key fob? Or should I try reprogramming it with a different method. I don't have a valet key so I was stuck doing the method where I put the key in the ignition... etc. Thanks guys!
Let me know what you find out, I have this exact scenario, except I've never been bothered enough to test it at oriellys

[jpulll]

Has anyone had success using air hammer/chisel for getting bolts loose?

[Willënskraft]

What's this thingamajig?

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/28/4b8e6709b58b547c4162798eadc7611b.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/28/f2420ba86cdab3ef55e51181e7a03856.jpg


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[Charles.waite]

Exterior temp sensor. It should be mounted on a little bracket in near the condenser.

[old guy]

http://i61.tinypic.com/n2xtoj.jpg.

[SJorge3442]

So this is for the dash temperature output? I know they 3.0 maf is used for intake temperatures.

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[Willënskraft]

Ohhh, thanks guys!


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[old guy]

So this is for the dash temperature output? I know they 3.0 maf is used for intake temperatures.



It's the sensor for the outside air temperature.

[customa4]

Can the B6 tow a car?
If so, how?
http://images.quattroworld.com/proxy.svc/Images/Image?id=91f98c499e874eeeb3e086ad69c4e139.JPG

Towed my brothers C5 A6 with the B6. Easy peasy.

http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p505/customa4/A4/06676D3F-9F7F-412F-957E-F6C4699B24EA_zpsnnrnvxjp.jpg (http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/customa4/media/A4/06676D3F-9F7F-412F-957E-F6C4699B24EA_zpsnnrnvxjp.jpg.html)

[Yogie]

Whats going on B6 guys.

Question isnt for me as I drive a b7 but my buddy is driving a 03 a4 1.8 and he recently came into a decent amount of money and is going to make the jump from stock to stage 3 with full exhaust, wheels, and coils all in one go. My only concern is that he is looking at all ebay stage 3 kits for around 480 US dollars. .. Anyone here with some good reviews of these kits(will post a link as soon as I get on his ebay). Or some good horror stories that I can share with him to try and be careful with ebay parts. I've tried leading him in the direction of more reputable suppliers. But hoping actual advice from B6 guys will change his mind a little. &no he is not a zine member, so he doesnt search here.

[old guy]

I'm not sure there is any hope for your buddy if he is even considering a$480 stage three kit. Just for reference here are a few links to a quality stage 3 kit: Clicky click 1 (http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/turbo-stage-turbo-kit-from-apr-for-the-b6-a4-18t-p-744.html)® and Clicky click 2 (http://shop.achtuning.com/apr-t3100010-stage-iii-turbo-ecu-upgrade-audi-b6-a4-18t.aspx)®. I'm sure there are other quality set-ups for less but as you can see they are a little bit above the $500 price range.

[Knives1010]

B6 and b7 s4's have the same brakes correct? I have all the parts fir a b7 a4 upgrade and thought since I'm buying rotors I may as well go up to s4's but I'm having trouble find b7 s4 carriers

[gmudan]

B6 and b7 s4's have the same brakes correct? I have all the parts fir a b7 a4 upgrade and thought since I'm buying rotors I may as well go up to s4's but I'm having trouble find b7 s4 carriers

Yea. I bought calipers and carriers off a b6 s4 and ordered b7 s4 rotors.

[slark]

How many misfires are normal? I've got like 3 per minute on random cylinders. I know something is off somewhere, because I've ran the misfire counter before for a longer duration and gotten 0.

[Knives1010]

How many misfires are normal? I've got like 3 per minute on random cylinders. I know something is off somewhere, because I've ran the misfire counter before for a longer duration and gotten 0.
0 misfires is normal

[djsa4]

How can I replace the rubber cover on the shift column on an automatic, better yet where can I get the rubber cover? (This is why you don't let your kids borrow the car) it is making the shift selector on the dash light up every gear, although only when it's in drive, it works fine in every other gear, even uSeless.


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[Willënskraft]

Do you mean the shift boot?

[djsa4]

Yea, sorry been working on my car so much lately my head wasn't quite up to par when I posted that, I can't seem to find a replacement for an auto trans


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[Willënskraft]

Oh you meant the cover strip below the shift knob my bad (I have all the derps today lol). When the PO removed it from my car I reinstalled the complete shift indicator. From what I can remember is that the cover strip was built with the shift indicator. Also from what I've searched is that it can't be bought separate without have the entire assembly. Here's a link to what I'm trying to depict http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Interior/Shifter/ES441656/. And here's a link on the removal in case you need it http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/309568-Removing-the-shift-console-on-a-B6-Quattro-TIP.
Hope this helps.

EDIT: As for the the dash light it could be from something that's unplugged. Have you scanned with VAG-COM? Also I've found the cover strip part it's P/N: 8E1713187D

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[djsa4]

Thanks, the dash light started the second the rubber broke, the one magnet lines up but the second one is on the broken side


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[Pr1ce]

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag230/kasleague/6A3FF85E-ABFC-45F9-B86A-049F65E41C8E_zpsotrhdocz.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/kasleague/media/6A3FF85E-ABFC-45F9-B86A-049F65E41C8E_zpsotrhdocz.jpg.html)

Got home and smelled something funny under the hood... Popped the hood and a thin oil was everywhere on left hand side of engine compartment. Also a "fizz" from the are in the picture.... I think it's oil from the turbo? I tried searching but no definitive picture or description. It was bubbling from the 2 steel lines


Help? Please?


Thanks guys

[djsa4]

I have the replacement part for the shifter ordered, although now I have another stupid question. A while back I was looking at remote starters, but seeing that pretty much all aftermarket alarm systems come with a remote start built in, how hard would it be to install an aftermarket alarm/remote start? I know I'd need this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3670_Directed-556U-B-556UW.html and a valet key right? If it is possible to install the aftermarket alarm, how difficult would it be to disable the factory alarm? The whole reason I'm now looking into an aftermarket alarm is because the damn motion sensor in the car sets the alarm off on a daily basis, not to mention that unless a window in the house is open, I can't hear it any way.

[Knives1010]

Are there any horror stories about the store bottles of R134a?

[Willënskraft]

Are there any horror stories about the store bottles of R134a?

Are you referring to the ones with the gauges? From what I've read is that there is a chance that store bought R134a kits have inaccurate gauges, there are some success to it. However, if your car's low on refrigerant then I would suggest going to the shop or dealer to get it properly done. Also hi! How's July 4 going?

[Knives1010]

Are you referring to the ones with the gauges? From what I've read is that there is a chance that store bought R134a kits have inaccurate gauges, there are some success to it. However, if your car's low on refrigerant then I would suggest going to the shop or dealer to get it properly done. Also hi! How's July 4 going?
Going pretty well, currently consuming this:
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/04/72234bfe1cf0cb950b3ec335adb7744e.jpg

Also darn, suppose I'll start shopping for a shop then, it's too hot for shitty working a/c

How's your 'Merica day going?

[Willënskraft]

Going pretty well, currently consuming this:

Also darn, suppose I'll start shopping for a shop then, it's too hot for shitty working a/c

How's your 'Merica day going?

Pretty darn good, played COD and drank beers. Now I'm watching fireworks [up] [up].

[slark]

Any idea if mk5 jetta monster mats will fit our b6's? My father gave me a set for free since he's selling his sportwagen. I'm 1100 miles away from my car at the moment.

[gmudan]

I want to cut the bars in the middle lower grill of the bumper. Will it effect with sagging at all? It does look like it kinda supports the bottom but I want to cut it to show the FMIC

[Willënskraft]

Has anyone ever used WD40 on car scratches?

[gmudan]

Has anyone ever used WD40 on car scratches?

Why not just compound... Wd-40 might temporarily fill in clear coat scratches but won't help long term.

[chad99]

Has anyone ever used WD40 on car scratches?
I've used clear coat touch up pens that work great for scratches and are permanent compared to wd40

[choppper]

If I can blow through the tip end of my N75 does that mean it's broke? I can't find this boost leak after two years and want to get to the end of it. The two short ends pass through with clear air passage when I blog from either end. The long end that goes into the tip let's a little bit of air through when I blow into it, is that normal or faulty?

Thanks!

[jayiszraw]

What is my best plug and play option for better output from my low beams w/ no leveling sensor. Already have hids but looking for a better light cutoff

[old guy]

If I can blow through the tip end of my N75 does that mean it's broke? I can't find this boost leak after two years and want to get to the end of it. The two short ends pass through with clear air passage when I blog from either end. The long end that goes into the tip let's a little bit of air through when I blow into it, is that normal or faulty?

Thanks!

This diagram should help. Without an electrical signal the N75 passes boost pressure from the high pressure side of the turbo to the wastegate actuator. When the ECU activates the N75 the pressure gets dumped back into the TIP and allows the wastegate to remain closed. You should not be able to blow air through the TIP (vent to intake air) connection unless the N75 is being activated by the ECU. Try cleaning your N75 with some carburetor or MAF cleaner and see if it will seal. If after cleaning the N75 you can still blow air through the TIP connection you will need to replace the N75.

http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/servlet/JiveServlet/download/55-28840-280718-4305/N75.jpg

[choppper]

This diagram should help. Without an electrical signal the N75 passes boost pressure from the high pressure side of the turbo to the wastegate actuator. When the ECU activates the N75 the pressure gets dumped back into the TIP and allows the wastegate to remain closed. You should not be able to blow air through the TIP (vent to intake air) connection unless the N75 is being activated by the ECU. Try cleaning your N75 with some carburetor or MAF cleaner and see if it will seal. If after cleaning the N75 you can still blow air through the TIP connection you will need to replace the N75.

http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/servlet/JiveServlet/download/55-28840-280718-4305/N75.jpg
Thanks Old Guy! I appreciate your answer, I will have to try that out tomorrow, hopefully I can find this to be my overboost code issue

[Knives1010]

Currently my car is burning oil at idle BUT if I put any sort load on the engine, I.e. Turn on the a/c then it does not burn anything (or atleast produce blue smoke) does this point to anything in particular?

EDIT:
There is no smoke while driving and the smoke disapates quickly (i.e. if I hit the gas while smoking a it will blow a larger but not huge pouf of smoke and then be back to as it should be) only to return somewhere between 2-5 minutes later

[my1stturbo]

Can the Bentley ac test be done with a vag-com? No ac and when I went into measuring blocks I had no current to n280. Wasn't sure if Bentley would provide any other information.

[Mr. Wolfsberg]

Currently my car is burning oil at idle BUT if I put any sort load on the engine, I.e. Turn on the a/c then it does not burn anything (or atleast produce blue smoke) does this point to anything in particular?

EDIT:
There is no smoke while driving and the smoke disapates quickly (i.e. if I hit the gas while smoking a it will blow a larger but not huge pouf of smoke and then be back to as it should be) only to return somewhere between 2-5 minutes later
Valve stem seals possibly

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk

[Knives1010]

Valve stem seals possibly

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk
Le sigh, I'm hoping not, I just had those done in January

[Willënskraft]

Le sigh, I'm hoping not, I just had those done in January

I thought it was the brand of gas that you used [confused].

[Knives1010]

I thought it was the brand of gas that you used [confused].
Nope still doing it and I'm well into the next tank, that was me just being hopeful

[gmudan]

Anyone have the outer piece of the centre grill for Ultrasport bumper? Just need the rim portion.

[Mr. Wolfsberg]

Nope still doing it and I'm well into the next tank, that was me just being hopeful
Just a thought but maybe your turbo is passing some oil and collecting in the cat or something.

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk

[Knives1010]

Just a thought but maybe your turbo is passing some oil and collecting in the cat or something.

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk
I'm straight piped up until the mufflers, I'm leaning towards the idea that turbo seals are just barely leaking. To the point where if I'm not at full vacuum, such as when the a/c is on, that the seals arent leaking, but at full vacuum there's just enough suction to breach the seal. Just a guess at this point though until I get a compression test on it.

[Jermunji]

Can the B6 tow a car?
If so, how?
http://images.quattroworld.com/proxy.svc/Images/Image?id=91f98c499e874eeeb3e086ad69c4e139.JPG

the real question is can a tuned C7 RS6 pull a speedboat? maybe a little yacht? [drool]

[Pizdets-b5]

where can i find the esp module in the b5 s4?

[MNAudi101]

where can i find the esp module in the b5 s4?

maybe posting in the B5 S4 section will give you better results

[slark]

What can I adjust to make it so I can engage gears sans clutch when car is off? Trans works as intended while car is on, and I can engage gears with clutch with car off. I've attempted a search but no luck.

[SJorge3442]

What can I adjust to make it so I can engage gears sans clutch when car is off? Trans works as intended while car is on, and I can engage gears with clutch with car off. I've attempted a search but no luck.
There's nothing you can adjust to help this. Usually I can't engage the gears if my car is on a slight incline, or if I already had it resting against a gear while parked. Otherwise I can freely cycle through the gears.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[Willënskraft]

Has anyone ever towed a small boat on a B6? Specifically a 14ft Jon boat with trailer.


Sent from my iPhone in a secret volcano "lair"

[Charles.waite]

Has anyone ever towed a small boat on a B6? Specifically a 14ft Jon boat with trailer.


Sent from my iPhone in a secret volcano "lair"

My buddy used to tow his seadoo with his b6. I wouldn't imaging a small boat is all that much heavier/more difficult.

[Blockis]

Randomly had two cylinder misfires yesterday, during heavy rain. Exhaust flange(s) / gasket(s) was fixed recently. How related could low coolant and/or faulty lower coolant sensor be to causing misfires?

It only happened for like 3 seconds, no loss of power or anything. Cleared codes now, but these are what I had:


5 Faults Found:
17698 - Coolant Temp Sensor at Radiator Outlet (G83)

P1290 - 002 - Signal too Small - Intermittent
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1

P0420 - 002 - Efficiency Below Threshold - MIL ON
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected


P0300 - 001 -
16688 - Cylinder 4

P0304 - 001 - Misfire Detected
16686 - Cylinder 2

P0302 - 001 - Misfire Detected

[customa4]

It looks like two separate problems. Check the wiring on those two cylinders. You also need a new lower temp sensor.

[PreciseD]

Randomly had two cylinder misfires yesterday, during heavy rain. Exhaust flange(s) / gasket(s) was fixed recently. How related could low coolant and/or faulty lower coolant sensor be to causing misfires?

It only happened for like 3 seconds, no loss of power or anything. Cleared codes now, but these are what I had:


5 Faults Found:
17698 - Coolant Temp Sensor at Radiator Outlet (G83)

P1290 - 002 - Signal too Small - Intermittent
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1

P0420 - 002 - Efficiency Below Threshold - MIL ON
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected


P0300 - 001 -
16688 - Cylinder 4

P0304 - 001 - Misfire Detected
16686 - Cylinder 2

P0302 - 001 - Misfire Detected

I have the exact same codes when it rains. I just ordered a full connector kit for $20 so I can replace all the coil connectors and for $15 I got all the injector ones too.



It looks like two separate problems. Check the wiring on those two cylinders. You also need a new lower temp sensor.

Mine was the wire at the connector.

[blitz2190]

http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/cc342/bmb1791/TSWNogaro1.jpg

anyone have a shot with the wheels by chance in black, whole car pic? theres a really good deal locally.

[Blockis]

I have the exact same codes when it rains. I just ordered a full connector kit for $20 so I can replace all the coil connectors and for $15 I got all the injector ones too.




Mine was the wire at the connector.

I'm sorry, so what do I need to look at/into??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZipMeUpJ]

TheThe punctured hose by my front sway is the lower ac hose correct? I know it's an ac hose just want to know the name so I can find a part number. =( http://i59.tinypic.com/15piem8.jpg

[my1stturbo]

How accurate is an app like Torque for boost as opposed to a gauge?

[old guy]

How accurate is an app like Torque for boost as opposed to a gauge?

As accurate as VCDS. It pulls the same data from the ECU.

[my1stturbo]

As accurate as VCDS. It pulls the same data from the ECU.

Interesting. I bought what I thought was a stock B5.5 passat. Hooked up Torque today and see the boost spiking to 20+ at times.

[old guy]

Interesting. I bought what I thought was a stock B5.5 passat. Hooked up Torque today and see the boost spiking to 20+ at times.

Sounds like it's been chipped. Keep in mind that boost readings from VCDS, TorquePro or any other monitoring software is a calculated value based upon comparing the barometric sensor reading in the ECM to the MAP sensor reading. It should be accurate but any discrepancy in the sensors can skew the reading. Ultimately a quality boost gauge reading is going to be better than TorquePro.

[h82loze]

Sounds like it's been chipped. Keep in mind that boost readings from VCDS, TorquePro or any other monitoring software is a calculated value based upon comparing the barometric sensor reading in the ECM to the MAP sensor reading. It should be accurate but any discrepancy in the sensors can skew the reading. Ultimately a quality boost gauge reading is just as good as VCDS or TorquePro.
I have to disagree. Torque is not close to being as accurate as a boost gauge. I've compared Torque to my boost gauge, and the readings aren't close. Torque is OK as a general guideline, but not a reliable replacement for a boost gauge.

I have not compared VCDS to my boost gauge, but I would venture that VCDS is probably close to the boost gauge. Since VCDS has access to more data, such as boost requested, I would think that it would be pretty accurate at calculating the boost. But Torque does not have access to anywhere near as much data as VCDS, so it is a very rough estimate.

[my1stturbo]

Thanks for the info. I will look up how to log with VCDS. I think I might have an old boost gauge from another car so might hook it up quickly to check .

[old guy]

I have to disagree. Torque is not close to being as accurate as a boost gauge. I've compared Torque to my boost gauge, and the readings aren't close. Torque is OK as a general guideline, but not a reliable replacement for a boost gauge.


You're right. I use TorquePro all the time to monitor things like coolant temperature, IAT, MAF, ignition angle, A/F ratio, as well as long and short term fuel trims. It does a great job with that so I just assumed the boost monitoring would be on par. Bad assumption. I took a drive last night and compared the TorquePro boost with my boost gauge. The TP takes much longer to react and is all over the place. However once I held steady at any particular vacuum or boost level it ultimately came to within 2 to 3 psi of the boost gauge reading. General guideline: Yes. Replacement: No.

[djsa4]

I have the exact same codes when it rains. I just ordered a full connector kit for $20 so I can replace all the coil connectors and for $15 I got all the injector ones too.




Mine was the wire at the connector.

Was the connector kit for a single CP or all 4? And if you don't mind, where did you buy them and the injector ones? Thanks mate!


Sent from my iPhone using The gerbil that runs my mind

[PreciseD]

Was the connector kit for a single CP or all 4? And if you don't mind, where did you buy them and the injector ones? Thanks mate!


Sent from my iPhone using The gerbil that runs my mind

It was for 4 individual connectors with pigtails, for both the coils (http://www.ebay.com/itm/181785592036?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) and the injectors (http://www.ebay.com/itm/380254175181?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT).

I also ordered these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/271926066096?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) and this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261905525427?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

All in cost was $50

[djsa4]

Thanks a lot! Saves me some needed $, more money to be set aside for my 2.7 swap


Sent from my iPhone using The gerbil that runs my mind

[PreciseD]

Thanks a lot! Saves me some needed $, more money to be set aside for my 2.7 swap


Sent from my iPhone using The gerbil that runs my mind

No problem. I am still waiting for my butt connectors but once they come in I will be doing the install. Good luck with yours.

[djsa4]

I plan on soldering, from my experience butt connectors don't hold up that well


Sent from my iPhone using The gerbil that runs my mind

[PreciseD]

I plan on soldering, from my experience butt connectors don't hold up that well


Sent from my iPhone using The gerbil that runs my mind

Do not solder any connections on an Audi. It lowers the resistance and can or will cause major issues. Audi only uses crimped connections on their cars.

[djsa4]

Thanks for the tip, god I hate using butt connectors. Ah well German engineering


Sent from my iPhone using The gerbil that runs my mind

[PreciseD]

Thanks for the tip, god I hate using butt connectors. Ah well German engineering


Sent from my iPhone using The gerbil that runs my mind

use the ones with heat shrink ends and a proper crimper and they will not come undone.

[blitz2190]

use the ones with heat shrink ends and a proper crimper and they will not come undone.

^ this. The propper tool makes a world of difference compared to what most do with a pair of cutters. You can also get the ones with adhesive in them for a good mechanical hold as well so it won't pull on the connections as hard.

[PreciseD]

^ this. The propper tool makes a world of difference compared to what most do with a pair of cutters. You can also get the ones with adhesive in them for a good mechanical hold as well so it won't pull on the connections as hard.

I think the 3M ones I listed a few posts ago are the adhesive lined ones.

[Lauri0112]

I have a really good change of buying C6 A6 s-line leather seats.
I know that the rear seat is a big NO, but how abouth the front seats? Do they bolt right in?
Mounting rails look similar enough.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Can anyone come up with an answer as to why when you run the stock turbo just open (not on purpose had a ripped coupler on my DIY intake) it actually sounds like there is a turbo with an open element filter on the end, but when you connect the turbo intake tube with the filter on the end and everything is sealed properly you hardly get any sound?

I've always been a fan of the spooling sound the turbo makes and I was excited when my intake suddenly got louder the other day and you could hear it more, but it also lead me to investigate as I kept hitting limp mode (3psi) on occasion. Low and behold the coupler was torn wide open. Fixed it with one I found at the local hardware store and when every thing was back together the sound was gone again. There was no damage to the turbo fins either, they are in great shape and there is only a slight amount of in and out shaft play which is normal.

Can't quite figure out why the sound is so drastic, I mean it's just an open plastic tube that connects to the turbo..

Thoughts?

Jason

[PreciseD]

With just an APR tune, the removal of my expansion tank (metal box on engine block) and stock airbox, I can clearly hear the spool of my turbo and and DV "woosh".

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

With just an APR tune, the removal of my expansion tank (metal box on engine block) and stock airbox, I can clearly hear the spool of my turbo and and DV "woosh".

The helmholtz resonator? Hmm I'll have to look into that. I've been iffy about removing it since I thought it's there to take up extra volume since US B6's don't come with the dual side mount intercoolers.

Jason

[PreciseD]

The helmholtz resonator? Hmm I'll have to look into that. I've been iffy about removing it since I thought it's there to take up extra volume since US B6's don't come with the dual side mount intercoolers.

Jason

I believe It's just there to quite down the DV noise. Once I removed it I noticed a big difference.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

I believe It's just there to quite down the DV noise. Once I removed it I noticed a big difference.

I'll definitely give it a shot tonight. I need to do an oil change so I'll be under the car anyways. Thanks for the tip!

Jason

[PreciseD]

I'll definitely give it a shot tonight. I need to do an oil change so I'll be under the car anyways. Thanks for the tip!

Jason

You will need another elbow (like the one that connects the DV to the intake tube) to make it work. Just remove the tee and replace with elbow. You can leave the tank there for now to see if you like the noise or not. I personally like it.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

You will need another elbow (like the one that connects the DV to the intake tube) to make it work. Just remove the tee and replace with elbow. You can leave the tank there for now to see if you like the noise or not. I personally like it.

Do you happen to know what size elbow you used? I'd image it would be in the ball park of 3/4"? I'll be stopping at the hardware store after work to return two other couplers I bought that I thought could work but ended up not needing.

Jason

[PreciseD]

Do you happen to know what size elbow you used? I'd image it would be in the ball park of 3/4"? I'll be stopping at the hardware store after work to return two other couplers I bought that I thought could work but ended up not needing.

Jason

I used the factory elbow that was in the intake. I had a spare one from my other B6. I bet you sell one lol.

[customa4]

Do you happen to know what size elbow you used? I'd image it would be in the ball park of 3/4"? I'll be stopping at the hardware store after work to return two other couplers I bought that I thought could work but ended up not needing.

Jason

I'm almost positive I used 1" but it might have been 3/4". Pick it up at home depot in the plumbing section, they're like $2-3 each.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

I used the factory elbow that was in the intake. I had a spare one from my other B6. I bet you sell one lol.

Come to think of it I think I have that laying around. The black 45* metal elbow?


I'm almost positive I used 1" but it might have been 3/4". Pick it up at home depot in the plumbing section, they're like $2-3 each.

If I can't find the piece above I'll definitely grab one from the hardware store.

Jason

[PreciseD]

Come to think of it I think I have that laying around. The black 45* metal elbow?



If I can't find the piece above I'll definitely grab one from the hardware store.

Jason

This one

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q620/ChrisLesyk/dscf0903.jpg

Video

https://vimeo.com/134325268

[old guy]

I took the ghetto approach. I just disconnected the hose from the cow bell and plugged it with a piece of wooden dowel rod and a hose clamp.. Easy peasy and completely reversible if I ever want to put it back on. Been that way for years.

[PreciseD]

I took the ghetto approach. I just disconnected the hose from the cow bell and plugged it with a piece of wooden dowel rod and a hose clamp.. Easy peasy and completely reversible if I ever want to put it back on. Been that way for years.

Say it ain't so fletch

[old guy]

Say it ain't so fletch

LOL!! Yep. I sure did! I even made a little bracket to hold the disconnected hose in the correct position. I'll take a pic Saturday when I am underneath replacing the drivers side front lower control arm.

[ADCS]

I took the ghetto approach. I just disconnected the hose from the cow bell and plugged it with a piece of wooden dowel rod and a hose clamp.. Easy peasy and completely reversible if I ever want to put it back on. Been that way for years.

I remember reading that a few years ago and shortly after I needed to plug one of the TIP inputs for some troubleshooting. Cut down wood dowel worked like a charm!

[ADCS]

Do not solder any connections on an Audi. It lowers the resistance and can or will cause major issues. Audi only uses crimped connections on their cars.

To each their own but I strongly disagree with this.
OEMs crimp because it is quicker and in high volume manufacturing it is more repeatable. Not because it is superior to solder. If you are using a single temp pencil style solder iron with the incorrect solder (material and gauge) then yes of course it will be horrible. When applied correctly (correctly being the key word) there is nothing wrong with solder. How do you think all the components are secured on every electronic device? Including our Audi ECUs :-)

[PreciseD]

To each their own but I strongly disagree with this.
OEMs crimp because it is quicker and in high volume manufacturing it is more repeatable. Not because it is superior to solder. If you are using a single temp pencil style solder iron with the incorrect solder (material and gauge) then yes of course it will be horrible. When applied correctly (correctly being the key word) there is nothing wrong with solder. How do you think all the components are secured on every electronic device? Including our Audi ECUs :-)

Solder on a PCB is completely different than solder in the middle of a wire. Both Audi and VW say not to solder any wires on the car.

Soldering wire changes the resistance of the wire and can screw things up. That is why Audi sells heat shrink butt connectors.

[SJorge3442]

I thought another reason for not soldering was due to the heat. I remember reading the heat travels through the harness to the ecu and can cause damage. If that's true, I don't know.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[ADCS]

Solder on a PCB is completely different than solder in the middle of a wire. Both Audi and VW say not to solder any wires on the car.

Soldering wire changes the resistance of the wire and can screw things up. That is why Audi sells heat shrink butt connectors.

I am well aware it is different. I was just pointing out solder is used everywhere.
Do you think crimp connections retain the same resistance? And the change in resistance is directly related to how well (correctly) the solder connection was done.
$100million aircraft have solder splices everywhere. I think it is ok for an Audi. :-)

[ADCS]

I thought another reason for not soldering was due to the heat. I remember reading the heat travels through the harness to the ecu and can cause damage. If that's true, I don't know.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Yes the heat will migrate, just like welding, but it is negligible if done correctly.

[PreciseD]

I am well aware it is different. I was just pointing out solder is used everywhere.
Do you think crimp connections retain the same resistance? And the change in resistance is directly related to how well (correctly) the solder connection was done.
$100million aircraft have solder splices everywhere. I think it is ok for an Audi. :-)

We can just agree to disagree.

I can say mil spec aviation wiring has moved to crimping the majority of its wiring due to vibration. Soldered joints can't handle it. That is all.

[ADCS]

We can just agree to disagree.

I can say mil spec aviation wiring has moved to crimping the majority of its wiring due to vibration. Soldered joints can't handle it. That is all.

Not the mil-spec avionics I design. :-)
Crimping isn't wrong. I just personally find it takes longer and is ugly. Solder connections for me. :-)

[PreciseD]

Not the mil-spec avionics I design. :-)
Crimping isn't wrong. I just personally find it takes longer and is ugly. Solder connections for me. :-)

That's because you're Canadian lol. Square tires and all.

Solder is a nice connection. When properly executed. That's rarely the case.

[texasboy21]

To each their own but I strongly disagree with this.
OEMs crimp because it is quicker and in high volume manufacturing it is more repeatable. Not because it is superior to solder. If you are using a single temp pencil style solder iron with the incorrect solder (material and gauge) then yes of course it will be horrible. When applied correctly (correctly being the key word) there is nothing wrong with solder. How do you think all the components are secured on every electronic device? Including our Audi ECUs :-)

http://www.esatinc.ca/news_letters/crimp_or_solder.pdf

VW Technical Bulletin, Group 97, Number 98- 03 says use butt connectors.

[ADCS]

They also say to change your oil every 15,000kms/1 year. :-)

I think we already went over why OEMs prefer crimping.

[blitz2190]

Bare crimp connector then filled with solder then heatshrink, I won haha

[Spike00513]

Bare crimp connector then filled with solder then heatshrink, I won haha

From McMaster-Carr.

Harbor Freight sells crimps, but bad quality. NSPA is better and cheaper than OEM PN VAG crimps (cheaper via 4130-products instead of dealership). Easy to install, small for good fitment, and adhesive-lined shrink tubing with a center window marker. Seals against moisture, and the pipe acts as a strain relief to make it stronger than the wires.
The few NASA, FAA, and Mil-Spec relevant documents I glanced at seemed to suggest it was the way to go, but I'm no expert. A former Navy helo mech. told me they changed to crimp-only as solder altered resistance. No idea what that means. Maybe it was confirmation bias on my part.

My crimps have never failed. My solder has. Admittedly, everything was probably low quality. From the way I did it, to the soldering iron and materials used. I had no idea what I was doing, plus the heat seemed to harden and weaken the wire+sheath.
Solder on a PCB is completely different than solder in the middle of a wire. Both Audi and VW say not to solder any wires on the car.

Soldering wire changes the resistance of the wire and can screw things up. That is why Audi sells heat shrink butt connectors.

I doubt a PCB solder-point has the same function and stresses as a coilpack wiring harness repair right on the engine.


Thanks a lot! Saves me some needed $, more money to be set aside for my 2.7 swap


Sent from my iPhone using The gerbil that runs my mind

07kswap
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a303/alxdgr8/IMG_20140303_195356528_zpsa6n8l08p.jpg

[AUDI 129k]

If you fill a crimp with dielectric grease will it function properly?

[fR3ZNO]

If you fill a crimp with dielectric grease will it function properly?

If you filled it after the crimp was made, it might be okay. But, if you were apply the grease and then crimp, that might interfere with the connection. I don't think there would be any advantages to doing that either way, though.

You'd be better off using heat shrink.

[chokung]

3.0 Rear suspension looks pretty crappy to me... so rusty ... hated to see it, is this common? && is it hard to replace?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ygmeimlbojbmgn/2015-07-24%2010.03.41%20HDR.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/82hkizi6uv04kec/2015-07-24%2010.02.04.jpg?dl=0

[old guy]

I took the ghetto approach. I just disconnected the hose from the cow bell and plugged it with a piece of wooden dowel rod and a hose clamp.. Easy peasy and completely reversible if I ever want to put it back on. Been that way for years.


Say it ain't so fletch


LOL!! Yep. I sure did! I even made a little bracket to hold the disconnected hose in the correct position. I'll take a pic Saturday when I am underneath replacing the drivers side front lower control arm.

So I took off work this afternoon and replaced the other lower control arm and as promised a pic of my ghetto hose block. But actually there was a method to my madness. Blocking the hose with a dowel rod was really quick and easy and by adding the metal support bracket the boost hoses are still secured against excessive movement the same as they would be with the Helmholtz resonator in place.

http://i60.tinypic.com/98y4yc.jpg

[Spike00513]

Blocking the hose with a dowel rod was really quick and easy


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUyrJtQDMDc

[old guy]

I prefer the Homer Simpson method......



http://i.imgur.com/eUlj7xO.jpg

[GomegaK]

They also say to change your oil every 15,000kms/1 year. :-)

I think we already went over why OEMs prefer crimping.

What is your remark on the OEM oil change interval?

[ADCS]

What is your remark on the OEM oil change interval?

It is too long. Especially as these engines aren't getting any younger.
Regardless of how good your oil is, at 15,000kms there are many particles in the oil and filter. And think of the condensation forming in your oil throughout a year....

[GomegaK]

It is too long. Especially as these engines aren't getting any younger.
Regardless of how good your oil is, at 15,000kms there are many particles in the oil and filter. And think of the condensation forming in your oil throughout a year....

Ok thanks for the information. I have been following the OEM instructions for many years. [emoji19] What would your recommended interval be?

[ADCS]

Personally I do every 8-10,000 kms with my 1.8 but it all depends on the oil and filter you use, your climate, driving style, mods, etc. If you do frequent short trips not allowing the oil to warm up then you should change your oil more frequently.

[texasboy21]

My beloved A4 has been parked since janurary. What all is needed after the car has been sitting for that long?

Battery charge
Air in tires

Anything else?

[Knives1010]

I'd hit a little oil in the cylinders with a hand crank or two but not sure if actually needed

[Charles.waite]

Ok thanks for the information. I have been following the OEM instructions for many years. [emoji19] What would your recommended interval be?

I did 8-9k mile intervals. Whatever that comes out to in those strange metric thingies the rest of the world uses. Car ran perfectly, great compression, zero oil burning, I never once had to top off even with those long intervals.

[Knives1010]

I did 8-9k mile intervals. Whatever that comes out to in those strange metric thingies the rest of the world uses. Car ran perfectly, great compression, zero oil burning, I never once had to top off even with those long intervals.
I didn't think he was serous....

[old guy]

My beloved A4 has been parked since janurary. What all is needed after the car has been sitting for that long?

Battery charge
Air in tires

Anything else?

Check the air in the tires and start it up. Let it idle for a few minutes and drive it as before. Sitting for six months in Houston is no big deal. Temperatures remain reasonably steady in Houston so no issues from extreme temperature condensation in the block.

[ADCS]

^ only thing I would suggest differently is to remove the valve cover and add a bit of oil on the cams/lobes while turning the engine by hand. Probably not required but it won't hurt.

[old guy]

Ok thanks for the information. I have been following the OEM instructions for many years. [emoji19] What would your recommended interval be?

I purchased my A4 new in 2003. I have changed the oil every 5k miles since then for numerous reasons. I do it myself so the cost is insignificant. It's cheap insurance. By doing it every 5K miles it's easy to keep up with (Changed at 200K, 205K, 210K, ETC).

I could have gone the Blackstone Oil Analysis route and received a generic report giving me all the boilerplate wear stuff with a few specific comments on specific wear elements and advising me to go longer with the next oil change and submitting another oil sample for another analysis. But when it's all said and done the cost savings with the extended OCI combined with cost of the oil analysis becomes a wash.

Plus it gives me the opportunity to get under the car several times per year and look for any abnormalities that may have recently occurred. I do the same thing with the '09 CC VR6 except the OCI is every 10K miles on the CC (200K, 210K, 220K, ETC). That car stays on the Interstate and just turned 220K miles. It holds 6 Liters of oil and doesn't have to contend with the oil heat and shearing of a turbo so a 10K interval is appropriate. I have never had to add oil to either vehicle between OCI's.

I like to keep it simple and routine. Sure I could probably save a few $$ with a different approach but to me it just isn't worth the time and effort required.

[GomegaK]

Personally I do every 8-10,000 kms with my 1.8 but it all depends on the oil and filter you use, your climate, driving style, mods, etc. If you do frequent short trips not allowing the oil to warm up then you should change your oil more frequently.

Thanks for the advice. My a4 has the 2.0 20V ALT engine which is naturally aspirated. Is does suffer from high oil consumption. About 1ltr for roughly 3000 km.

[Knives1010]

Thanks for the advice. My a4 has the 2.0 20V ALT engine which is naturally aspirated. Is does suffer from high oil consumption. About 1ltr for roughly 3000 km.
Was that only a European offered engine? I've just never heard of a b6 with a 2.0 unless it was a stroker motor but your profile says stock.

[GomegaK]

Was that only a European offered engine? I've just never heard of a b6 with a 2.0 unless it was a stroker motor but your profile says stock.

It's completely stock. This engine is quite common in Europe. It delivers 130 PS. There is also a 2.0 FSI version which was released later. I am not sure which engines were available within US. But I read a lot about the 1.8T and the 3.0 and not about the other engines on Audizine.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/25/66ab2ffc6cfbe50c1f772c14c5df0fb6.jpg
Pic of the 2.0 engine bay. (In service position)

[Charles.waite]

Thanks for the advice. My a4 has the 2.0 20V ALT engine which is naturally aspirated. Is does suffer from high oil consumption. About 1ltr for roughly 3000 km.

My b7's BWT code 2.0t has roughly similar oil consumption. Compression is okay, I'm rebuilding the turbo soon, and if that still doesn't curb the consumption, I'm leaning towards leaking valve seals.

Here in the U.S. We only got the 1.8t and the 3.0. Well and the s4 4.2. Similar story with the b7, we only got the 2.0t, and 3.2.

[Blockis]

So I bought the 034 motor sports HFC. For the included hardware, shouldn't I have 3 more bolts and nuts? http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/25/b970747e0aa397bb3c230242faffb9c9.jpg

// I have a shop putting it on, but I want to make sure I'm giving them all the shit they need...

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[Spike00513]

old guy™ Oil Change Policy

same.

(AZ be like:)
http://cdn.meme.am/instances2/500x/919911.jpg

[slark]

So I bought the 034 motor sports HFC. For the included hardware, shouldn't I have 3 more bolts and nuts? http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/25/b970747e0aa397bb3c230242faffb9c9.jpg

// I have a shop putting it on, but I want to make sure I'm giving them all the shit they need...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope you're good. The turbo has studs, and the end that connects to the dp is threaded, so the bolts go there. The diameter of the pipe doesn't allow for nuts to be threaded into the bolts there. Mine has held fine. It's a super easy thing to do too...

[Blockis]

Nope you're good. The turbo has studs, and the end that connects to the dp is threaded, so the bolts go there. The diameter of the pipe doesn't allow for nuts to be threaded into the bolts there. Mine has held fine. It's a super easy thing to do too...

Excellent, thank you man.

(I would do it myself but I don't have the tools or the ability to jack the car up [apt life])


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Willënskraft]

Grilled cheese.

[Knives1010]

Excellent, thank you man.

(I would do it myself but I don't have the tools or the ability to jack the car up [apt life])


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey I did a wheel bearing replacement while living in an apartment lol and two tie rods on my other car

[slark]

Just to check my research, the best plug to run with a stage 1+ tune with fsi coils would be the iridium bkr7e's right? Specifically, the one's that come pre gapped to .044"(-11)?

[djsa4]

Excellent, thank you man.

(I would do it myself but I don't have the tools or the ability to jack the car up [apt life])


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Renting sucks, I once rented a house and the landlord was such a psycho she seen me washing my car and increased my rent by $150, that's how I ended up buying the house I'm living in now lol



Sent from my iPhone using The gerbil that runs my mind

[texasboy21]

Just to check my research, the best plug to run with a stage 1+ tune with fsi coils would be the iridium bkr7e's right? Specifically, the one's that come pre gapped to .044"(-11)?

Those are a very popular plug, and are good to use with upgraded coils. [up] I have personally run the copper (swapped every oil change) BKR7Es for many years, and gained 1.5mpg when I switched over.

[PreciseD]

Those are a very popular plug, and are good to use with upgraded coils. [up] I have personally run the copper (swapped every oil change) BKR7Es for many years, and gained 1.5mpg when I switched over.

You just reminded me that I need to refill my stock.... Looks like i'll be doing plugs this weekend.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

So I dumped the Helmholtz resonator AKA cowbell and though there is a noticeable difference in the DV sound (nice little flutter but not too invasive), there's not much more "spooling noise". Also now my boost will spike at 15psi and fall to ten. I'm on a stock tune with no modifications to the intercooler. I'm assuming the instant ramp up of boost is what's causing it to spike because there's less piping to charge. It actually pulls harder in first gear, but sometimes it goes into limp mode. On the highway if there's a lot of load it will spike 15psi then fall to 10 then spike 15 again then eventually smooth out. Got a check engine light too. Over boost code and bank 1 too lean.

I'm going to unhook the battery and reconnect it so the ECU can relearn the difference in air volume and see if it improves. If it doesn't looks like I'll have to reinstall the Helmholtz or upgrade to a FMIC. [drive]

Jason

[blitz2190]

So I dumped the Helmholtz resonator AKA cowbell and though there is a noticeable difference in the DV sound (nice little flutter but not too invasive), there's not much more "spooling noise". Also now my boost will spike at 15psi and fall to ten. I'm on a stock tune with no modifications to the intercooler. I'm assuming the instant ramp up of boost is what's causing it to spike because there's less piping to charge. It actually pulls harder in first gear, but sometimes it goes into limp mode. On the highway if there's a lot of load it will spike 15psi then fall to 10 then spike 15 again then eventually smooth out. Got a check engine light too. Over boost code and bank 1 too lean.

I'm going to unhook the battery and reconnect it so the ECU can relearn the difference in air volume and see if it improves. If it doesn't looks like I'll have to reinstall the Helmholtz or upgrade to a FMIC. [drive]

Jason

or a few bits of piping, the 2.0 passenger smic and bracket, and move your sai if you want a nice factory look.

[my1stturbo]

Does anyone sell clear e-codes? I know the smoked and chrome options are available, but I think DG looks better with clear lights (and with the oem turn signal). Or is my option the kit retrofit source sells?

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

[slark]

So I dumped the Helmholtz resonator AKA cowbell and though there is a noticeable difference in the DV sound (nice little flutter but not too invasive), there's not much more "spooling noise". Also now my boost will spike at 15psi and fall to ten. I'm on a stock tune with no modifications to the intercooler. I'm assuming the instant ramp up of boost is what's causing it to spike because there's less piping to charge. It actually pulls harder in first gear, but sometimes it goes into limp mode. On the highway if there's a lot of load it will spike 15psi then fall to 10 then spike 15 again then eventually smooth out. Got a check engine light too. Over boost code and bank 1 too lean.

I'm going to unhook the battery and reconnect it so the ECU can relearn the difference in air volume and see if it improves. If it doesn't looks like I'll have to reinstall the Helmholtz or upgrade to a FMIC. [drive]

Jason

Let us know if disconnecting to battery helps.

[Lornnn]

What's a good tire for my mother's '01 Honda Civic? I've never shopped for a go-kart before... not sure if a set of Continentals would even be worth it

Edit: nvm all 15's are insanely cheap anyways

[djsa4]

I use performance plus tires and they are quick to replace tires under warranty


Sent from my iPhone using The gerbil that runs my mind

[Let it snow]

So I dumped the Helmholtz resonator AKA cowbell and though there is a noticeable difference in the DV sound (nice little flutter but not too invasive), there's not much more "spooling noise". Also now my boost will spike at 15psi and fall to ten. I'm on a stock tune with no modifications to the intercooler. I'm assuming the instant ramp up of boost is what's causing it to spike because there's less piping to charge. It actually pulls harder in first gear, but sometimes it goes into limp mode. On the highway if there's a lot of load it will spike 15psi then fall to 10 then spike 15 again then eventually smooth out. Got a check engine light too. Over boost code and bank 1 too lean.

I'm going to unhook the battery and reconnect it so the ECU can relearn the difference in air volume and see if it improves. If it doesn't looks like I'll have to reinstall the Helmholtz or upgrade to a FMIC. [drive]

Jason

Hmmm.. I always thought the cowbell/Helmholtz was good for performance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCd0OjjCz88

[texasboy21]

Does anyone sell clear e-codes? I know the smoked and chrome options are available, but I think DG looks better with clear lights (and with the oem turn signal). Or is my option the kit retrofit source sells?

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Clear like see-through?? I have only seen black, chrome, and custom painted (opened and painted) headlights.

[PreciseD]

So I dumped the Helmholtz resonator AKA cowbell and though there is a noticeable difference in the DV sound (nice little flutter but not too invasive), there's not much more "spooling noise". Also now my boost will spike at 15psi and fall to ten. I'm on a stock tune with no modifications to the intercooler. I'm assuming the instant ramp up of boost is what's causing it to spike because there's less piping to charge. It actually pulls harder in first gear, but sometimes it goes into limp mode. On the highway if there's a lot of load it will spike 15psi then fall to 10 then spike 15 again then eventually smooth out. Got a check engine light too. Over boost code and bank 1 too lean.

I'm going to unhook the battery and reconnect it so the ECU can relearn the difference in air volume and see if it improves. If it doesn't looks like I'll have to reinstall the Helmholtz or upgrade to a FMIC. [drive]

Jason

Well there is your problem lol... Get the APR tune and drive [drive]

[my1stturbo]

Clear like see-through?? I have only seen black, chrome, and custom painted (opened and painted) headlights.

Meant look the same as factory but with updated internal components.

[Luxus Panzer]

why do people not keep the stock SMIC when installing a FMIC?

2 is better than one...no?

[blitz2190]

why do people not keep the stock SMIC when installing a FMIC?

2 is better than one...no?

You can also just add the second smic and keep it looking oem.

[fR3ZNO]

1.) Are the rear door shells from a sedan the same as the Avant? As far as I can tell they are the same, the only difference is the shape of the window frame.

I remember the B5 rear doors are the same sedan vs avant, however I just want to double check the case is the same with the B6.

2.) When I use the auto up function on the front passenger window, the window will roll up and then roll back down maybe 4 inches. But if I roll it up a small amount at a time, it will close up. Is this a problem with the window regulator getting snagged up and rolling back down due the pinch prevention feature?

[Willënskraft]

2.) When I use the auto up function on the front passenger window, the window will roll up and then roll back down maybe 4 inches. But if I roll it up a small amount at a time, it will close up. Is this a problem with the window regulator getting snagged up and rolling back down due the pinch prevention feature?

Sounds like the window regulator is going away. Do you hear any crunching noise?

[daught]

1) I was told by an audi shop that the shells are the same, the frames are not. The frames can be swapped.

[fR3ZNO]

Sounds like the window regulator is going away. Do you hear any crunching noise?

No crunching that I can hear. I'll have to try resetting the pinch protection and see if that helps. When the regulator pulley broke in my B5, the window wouldn't go up/down at all.


1) I was told by an audi shop that the shells are the same, the frames are not. The frames can be swapped.

Okay, that's what I had thought. Figured it would make more sense for Audi to make the door shells the same instead of having special rear doors.

Thanks!

[Luxus Panzer]

You can also just add the second smic and keep it looking oem.

so there is no reason why I should remove my stock intercooler if I go with a FMIC?

[SJorge3442]

so there is no reason why I should remove my stock intercooler if I go with a FMIC?

I dont own a turbo, but AFAIK, more plumbing = less boost. Since there is more volume to fill, its difficult to maintain the same boost pressure. How much boost is lost is dependent on the amount of additional plumbing and is probably negligible in most cases.

[SJorge3442]

1.) Are the rear door shells from a sedan the same as the Avant? As far as I can tell they are the same, the only difference is the shape of the window frame.

I remember the B5 rear doors are the same sedan vs avant, however I just want to double check the case is the same with the B6.

2.) When I use the auto up function on the front passenger window, the window will roll up and then roll back down maybe 4 inches. But if I roll it up a small amount at a time, it will close up. Is this a problem with the window regulator getting snagged up and rolling back down due the pinch prevention feature?


From another post somewhere on the internet:
"if your one-touch window switch doesn't work correctly because the anti-pinch mechanism is activating, you can reset it. To do this, start with the window all the way up. Hold the switch down until the window is all the way down, then hold the switch up all the way until the window is fully up, then continue to hold it up for 5 to 10 seconds. This should reset it."

[fR3ZNO]

From another post somewhere on the internet:
"if your one-touch window switch doesn't work correctly because the anti-pinch mechanism is activating, you can reset it. To do this, start with the window all the way up. Hold the switch down until the window is all the way down, then hold the switch up all the way until the window is fully up, then continue to hold it up for 5 to 10 seconds. This should reset it."

I actually read that earlier. haha. I think it was on a B8 forum or something, idk. Thanks though!

[JD6]

Swapping my old axles for Raxles axles...cant get the bolts from the inner axle loose (the ones connecting to tranny). Even with someone standing on the break + lubricant on the bolts im still turning the whole axle...any tips for busting these loose?

[SJorge3442]

Swapping my old axles for Raxles axles...cant get the bolts from the inner axle loose (the ones connecting to tranny). Even with someone standing on the break + lubricant on the bolts im still turning the whole axle...any tips for busting these loose?
Since your replacing the axle, what about a little heat?

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[old guy]

Swapping my old axles for Raxles axles...cant get the bolts from the inner axle loose (the ones connecting to tranny). Even with someone standing on the brake + lubricant on the bolts im still turning the whole axle...any tips for busting these loose?

That doesn't make sense. There is no way the brake won't keep the axle from turning.

[JD6]

That doesn't make sense. There is no way the brake won't keep the axle from turning.

Just following the directions on the DIY

http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page=webcontent/pages/axle.html

What would you recommend OG?

[JD6]

Since your replacing the axle, what about a little heat?

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

How much heat? we talking hair dryer heat or blow torch heat?

[SJorge3442]

How much heat? we talking hair dryer heat or blow torch heat?
A mapp gas torch is all I ever use. Either way, old guy is right. The brake should hold the axle. Maybe cycle the ignition so that the brakes build pressure. I know sometimes the brake pressure isn't the greatest when the car has been off for a while.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[old guy]

I replaced my riders side front axle with a Raxle just last month. I had my daughter apply the brakes to keep the axle from turning. No problem at all. The front brake should be more than adequate to hold the axle in place while wrenching on the bolts.

Mapp gas is nice but I can usually get stuff loose with a plain old Propane torch. Worked for my lower control arms last week.

This is what I used. A breaker bar with a triple square driver:

http://i62.tinypic.com/70f60m.jpg

[JD6]

Thanks for the advice. The car actually hasn't ran in a while. It won't start and I'm having problems trouble shooting that also. If it ain't one thing its another.

I'll charge her up and see if I can't get it cranking enough to prime the brakes. Thanks again guys, you guys are awesome.

[old guy]

Thanks for the advice. The car actually hasn't ran in a while. It won't start and I'm having problems trouble shooting that also. If it ain't one thing its another.

I'll charge her up and see if I can't get it cranking enough to prime the brakes. Thanks again guys, you guys are awesome.

You should be able to get enough brake pressure without the vacuum assist. Whoever pushes on the brake pedal will just have to push extra hard.

[JD6]

My mom daym near Flintstone'd the brake...and shes no small woman.

[blitz2190]

You should be able to get enough brake pressure without the vacuum assist. Whoever pushes on the brake pedal will just have to push extra hard.

Or have it started but if doing this on stands wouldn't recommend it.

[old guy]

LOL!!!

Another option would be to put the wheel back on and lower it enough to add friction from the ground. Hope you are skinny enough to reach underneath!

[my1stturbo]

Not sure if this is the right way, but when I did my axles I threw an old screwdriver threw the slot in the caliper and into the vanes in the brake rotor. It bent the screwdriver but it prevented the rotor from turning. Was working alone so had to make due.

[JD6]

LOL!!!

Another option would be to put the wheel back on and lower it enough to add friction from the ground. Hope you are skinny enough to reach underneath!

I was thinking about this actually but I have no idea how I'd get to the bolts.


Not sure if this is the right way, but when I did my axles I threw an old screwdriver threw the slot in the caliper and into the vanes in the brake rotor. It bent the screwdriver but it prevented the rotor from turning. Was working alone so had to make due.

Just saw someone do this on a youtube DIY...

Gonna take all suggestions and put em to use...gotta get this sucker out.

Thanks again for all the input fellas.

[JD6]

Got 5 out of the 6 bolts loose on the pass side inner axle....now my next question becomes, what is the best way to remove a stripped bolt from this location? [headbang][facepalm]

[fR3ZNO]

Got 5 out of the 6 bolts loose on the pass side inner axle....now my next question becomes, what is the best way to remove a stripped bolt from this location? [headbang][facepalm]

Your best bet would probably be to smack in a slightly larger Torx bit in there.

[Luxus Panzer]

Your best bet would probably be to smack in a slightly larger Torx bit in there.

and pray ;)

[old guy]

You have plenty of room to get a good set of vice-grips on the bolt head. That should provide enough leverage.

[fR3ZNO]

Another silly question, is there any difference between "Denim Blue Pearl" (LZ5W) and "Ocean Blue Metallic" (LZ5C). The look identical in pictures, but I am guessing they are different colors...

[redline380]

For axle bolts, I have a 2 foot extension I put on the end of a 3/8 impact. Works great, no holding brakes and you dont even have to rotate the axle.

[IndoReef]

Your best bet would probably be to smack in a slightly larger Torx bit in there.

Or use a Small Extractor bit, Drill a hole in the head about half an inch deep and use the extractor bit. they work really well

[JD6]

Both front axles replaced. Thanks for the input guys.

But now I have another issue. Trying to put my rear brakes back on but the piston caliper tool (rented from autozone) wont fit between the piston and the caliper. I did a search and came up with the metalnerd (link (http://www.europaparts.com/rear-brake-reset-tool-mn3272-metalnerd.html)) caliper tool cus its thinner than the autozone tool. Just thought I'd ask to see if anyone had any tricks for this one before I have to order this tool..

[old guy]

Before you spend that much money try a "cube -o-death" brake tool. dirt cheap. Requires pushing in really hard while turning but it will get the job done.


http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c300/nameupto20/G20%20Brakes/P2161846_zps70d26baa.jpg

http://www.chain-auto-tools.com/pics/AMR450L.jpg

Clicky click (http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/brake-tool/oem-rear-disc-brake-cube-for-use-with-3-8-in-drive-tool/2363_0_0/)®

[JD6]

You are the man OG.

I was just trying needle nose pliers and I seemed to be making progress. I'll try that next.

Thanks again!

[reckless golfer]

Does anyone know what might cause this code to come uphttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/01/89bed23b5be26717a29a12684b3638f2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[old guy]

The first thing to do is check all of the hoses from the SAI pump to the combi valve on the back of the head. If they look good check the vacuum hose from the combi valve to the N112 SAI solenoid located underneath the intake manifold. If that looks good report back and we can go to the next step.

[reckless golfer]

Am I looking for a cracked line


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[old guy]

Am I looking for a cracked line



Yes. On a cold start the ECM activates the SAI pump as well as the N112 solenoid. The solenoid applies vacuum to the combi valve which opens the valve and the SAI pump pushes air into the combi valve. When the air doesn't make it to the exhaust stream you get the P0411.

So you are checking to see if the vacuum line is good as well as the air lines that provide the air flow.

There are several other possibilities such as a bad pump but more often than not the problem is a split hose. Start with the simple first.

[reckless golfer]

Ok Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JD6]

Rookie mistake on the brakes

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h150/JDizzy6/20150801_134442_zpsflzrudcw.jpg (http://s63.photobucket.com/user/JDizzy6/media/20150801_134442_zpsflzrudcw.jpg.html)

Any ideas on getting out of this??

Or am I left with having to remove the entire caliper and take it to a shop?

[old guy]

Did you turn it clockwise or counterclockwise?

[hgtuner08]

a couple questions, how do I know if my brake caliper seals are crap without taking the caliper out and looking at the seals. Brake fluid? The brakes feel soft, although better, even after bleeding it twice. The brake wear sensor keeps tripping as well, but it can't be right because I just replaced the brake pads.

[old guy]

a couple questions, how do I know if my brake caliper seals are crap without taking the caliper out and looking at the seals. Brake fluid? The brakes feel soft, although better, even after bleeding it twice. The brake wear sensor keeps tripping as well, but it can't be right because I just replaced the brake pads.

If you are leaking brake fluid around the seals they are bad. Otherwise they are working properly. The brake wear sensor issue is probably a bad connection between the pad connector and wiring harness plug.

[JD6]

I was turning clockwise. There still wasn't enough space for the Tool to fit but I kinda made it fit....now I can't get it to unfit...

[old guy]

I was turning clockwise. There still wasn't enough space for the Tool to fit but I kinda made it fit....now I can't get it to unfit...

Make sure you have released your e-brake. You can also try cracking open the bleeder valve to get a little more room.

[JD6]

E-brake is disengaged and bleeder screw is open. Still not budging.

I'm still leaning towards taking the whole thing off but there are no shops open this late on a Saturday.

[djsa4]

Will a rear driveshaft from an 04 or 05 fit my 02? Can't afford a new one atm, driveshaft went last night and my gd hotwater heater at the house blew up today and the only ones local are from 04/05

[Blockis]

Tweeter in rear door is gone. I don't have BOSE, is this what I want? http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Interior/Sound_System/Speaker/ES435788/

(Since I don't have BOSE, do I have what they call Active Speakers??)

[SJorge3442]

Tweeter in rear door is gone. I don't have BOSE, is this what I want? http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Interior/Sound_System/Speaker/ES435788/

(Since I don't have BOSE, do I have what they call Active Speakers??)
Hell for that price, you might as well pick up a new set of component speakers.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[Blockis]

Hell for that price, you might as well pick up a new set of component speakers.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Well, it was more of a, is this the Product # that I need...

[fR3ZNO]

This is a minor thing, but I noticed that when I open the driver's door, it shows that the passenger side door is open in the center display and vice versa... I haven't had a chance to hook up VCDS yet. Also, when I was trying to get my B7 fob programmed, I had a code for the right rear door not unlocking/locking, when I would hit the unlock button in the drivers door, it would show a value of 1 and then go right back to 0 instead of staying on 1. However, the door opens fine... maybe an issue with a switch?

[customa4]

Both front axles replaced. Thanks for the input guys.

But now I have another issue. Trying to put my rear brakes back on but the piston caliper tool (rented from autozone) wont fit between the piston and the caliper. I did a search and came up with the metalnerd (link (http://www.europaparts.com/rear-brake-reset-tool-mn3272-metalnerd.html)) caliper tool cus its thinner than the autozone tool. Just thought I'd ask to see if anyone had any tricks for this one before I have to order this tool..

I used the auto zone tool on the rear brakes with no problem.

[Willënskraft]

Could the outside temperature affect engine performance? I noticed that at higher temperatures the car runs a bit sluggish.