
Originally Posted by
bigern45
what are you doing?? stop messing around and get the S finished!!!
Lol. You're welcome?

(ps, I'm writing this from my shop, so work is getting done son)

Originally Posted by
Rated S
Mind if I put this on my repair page?
I'll credit you, of course.
Really good info.
Go for it, but wait like a week because I might make a couple of updates to it.
Alot of my info came from other places (I didn't make the drawing or any of the diagrams), and I just credited it to the internet forums.

Originally Posted by
DiscoPotato
That handwritten timing picture saved me in the past..
Given that I know that this will help someone out on here.
Thanks for sharing!!

Originally Posted by
goohead
honestly when i was doing timing i tried to use that pic for the chain and mine was off using it.
I too was worried about the handwritten picture, because it goes against the Bentley. When I saw all the people that were using it, and who those people were (reputable), I decided to use it. Then, just before doing the install I realized that I had a set of 2.7 heads 5 feet away for reference that had never been disassembled. I personally verified that the picture is correct.

Originally Posted by
goohead
Awesome! I thought I had seen almost all of the S4 DIY stuff (you should see my bookmarks folders), but I don't think I've ever seen yours. I'll add it to the links.

Originally Posted by
goohead
I'll add that to the links as well. I hear all different 'rules of thumb' for the ring gap spec, but the one thing that is usually consistent is that in that equation, the top ring factor that you multiply is usually .005" smaller than the bottom. I went with .055" for the top and .060" for the bottom after doing research, but I'll probably change the recommendation on the sheet to reflect Wiseco's recommendation, so that the liability is on

Originally Posted by
goohead
you measure ring gap to the bore not the piston and should be measured to at least 1/10 thous, you should never round off until the end of your measurements, as the end result can varry, i do all my measurements on my ti89, i downloaded a free app to do " to mm conversion
example: bore= 81.5 mm = 3.20866142"
top = .005" x 3.20866142" (bore of that cylinder, not mike value of piston** do not round off***) = 0.0160433071" round to .016" < rounded value
I did measure using the bore (81mm), not the piston (80.95mm or whatever), and the equation says "bore size", but I'll change the wording in the parenthesis so that no one can confuse that. And as for rounding off, I wasn't too worried for a couple of reasons, the main reason being that we're using relatively loose, general "rule of thumb" formulas in the first place (for example, I choose the factors to be .0055" and .0060", when you and some other people might use .0050" and .0055"). Also, the stock 81mm bore works out to be 3.18897", which is well inside what I'm personally comfortable rounding up to 3.19" for me. Come to think of it though, I think I used my TI calc as well, and I don't think I rounded anything til the last spec (for the final numbers), I think I just wrote 3.19" in the general formula example

Originally Posted by
goohead
call me anal but i'm a perfectionist i cant help it :)
I'm glad for it. It's because of people like you that things can get refined and improve. I'll add those links and change a couple of words.

Originally Posted by
B6T
Awesome tool, but I would stick with either mm or inch, not both.
If you want to take the time to convert those and send me the updated file, I'll put that in the original post. If not though, if someone is disassembling their engine, I'd hope they're capable of being attentive to the units
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