ZF8 Transmission- NOT Lifetime fluid

[Misticvega]

Oof. Good call, I jumped the gun on this thread. Just saw ZF8 and recalled my fluid.

What about this one then? https://www.europaparts.com/automati...k-8-speed.html

[Novarider]

Oof. Good call, I jumped the gun on this thread. Just saw ZF8 and recalled my fluid.

What about this one then? https://www.europaparts.com/automati...k-8-speed.html

That doesn't have an option for a genuine ZF filter only "OE". There are several places you can get a genuine ZF filter but this is where I got mine from so I can use their lifetime warranty.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...-zf-0bk398009a

Here is the ZF fluid that comes with the same lifetime warranty.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/lif...r-s67109031201

[zizouomar]

That doesn't have an option for a genuine ZF filter only "OE". There are several places you can get a genuine ZF filter but this is where I got mine from so I can use their lifetime warranty.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...-zf-0bk398009a

Here is the ZF fluid that comes with the same lifetime warranty.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/lif...r-s67109031201

Oh so you did the drain and fill, how did it go ? Your issues were solved after that ?

[Novarider]

Oh so you did the drain and fill, how did it go ? Your issues were solved after that ?

I did fluid and filter. Shifting is smoother.

[Spawne32]

anyone here ever changed the mechatronics seals?

[alnoor15]

My 15 a4 is almost at 60K miles and I have been thinking about doing a transmission flush. I have had Apr stage 2 for about a year now I feel like its time. My auto shop quoted me 650, (300 for parts and 350 for labor). I was wondering if this is something that is reasonable for the work being done??? FYI they are a high end german specialist and tuning shop - Tyrolsport

[Spawne32]

My 15 a4 is almost at 60K miles and I have been thinking about doing a transmission flush. I have had Apr stage 2 for about a year now I feel like its time. My auto shop quoted me 650, (300 for parts and 350 for labor). I was wondering if this is something that is reasonable for the work being done??? FYI they are a high end german specialist and tuning shop - Tyrolsport

Yes, thats not a bad price, Audi quoted me 950 for this job.

[Depthcharge]

For the record, don't do a flush. Just a drain and fill. If you bring your own parts you can shave off about $200 but it depends on the shop. I've seen prices for about $450-500 for the drain/fill and an extra $80 if you're changing the filter.

[Spawne32]

For the record, don't do a flush. Just a drain and fill. If you bring your own parts you can shave off about $200 but it depends on the shop. I've seen prices for about $450-500 for the drain/fill and an extra $80 if you're changing the filter.

I did my fluid/filter change with Redline D6 at 90k and just got done doing a drain and refill at 121k on saturday. Took about 4 quarts of new fluid, took about 30 minutes to do on a lift. Looked like the shop didnt fill the trans all the way that did it last, was about 2 quarts low. -_- Wasn't too pleased with that. A motive 2.5 gallon fluid pump makes this job ALOT easier.

[alnoor15]

For the record, don't do a flush. Just a drain and fill. If you bring your own parts you can shave off about $200 but it depends on the shop. I've seen prices for about $450-500 for the drain/fill and an extra $80 if you're changing the filter.

whats the difference between a flush and a drain & fill?

[jfo]

whats the difference between a flush and a drain & fill?

Flushing refers to pumping the old fluid out under pressure as the new fluid is added by a specialized machine. The concern is that particles, sludge, may be dislodged and pushed into small galley's, solenoids, etc, Drain and fill is self explanatory.

[ps2cho]

Should never “flush”.

The correct way is to disconnect the return line and turn on the car and push 1qt at a time out. With no dipstick hole though it makes this process harder. Best way would be to fashion an adapter plug to the outside of the fill port with a hose bib, then run it to engine bay.

This way you can run a quart out the cooler return line, engine off, add a quart, Engine on repeat for 5qt. (After pan drain of course).

I may try this approach when I get closer to 60k.

[mtroxel]

Should never “flush”.

It gets worse. Some people buy a flush fluid you add to the ATF. Non-contamination of the ATF is crucial. Once you put that foreign fluid in there, you never get it out completely. I don't care if the can says "for all tranmissions". It's not.

[Depthcharge]

I looked into that, it's because of the high concentration of naptha in the ZF8 transmission fluid. For those of you who have done the job, you know that mothball-y smell I'm talking about.
I also got a little over 4 L's in, about 4.2. So I wound up with some left over from the 5th bottle I bought as insurance. While you're there, you might as well do the front and rear differentials with 1 L of synthetic 75w gear oil.

[BrianVan]

I actually bought 10 liters a little less than 2yrs ago. (still not changed) Thinking that I'd do a drain\filter change with 4-5 liters, then in a few weeks\months later do just a drain to get the more new fluid in there for a "in a backwards thinkin theory" of a full fluid change.
I realize that thinking isn't true as the old and new fluid is already mixed coming out. But wouldn't there be more new fluid in there than old since the remaining fluid that didn't come out is mixed 1/2 old and 1/2 new and another drain with 4 liters back in would have roughly 3/4 new fluid.
What are some opinions on that theory?

For what its worth, I'm with the Never Ever Flush crowd.

Front and Rear diff's changed. Just use synth GL5 rated. Was easy.

[Novarider]

I actually bought 10 liters a little less than 2yrs ago. (still not changed) Thinking that I'd do a drain\filter change with 4-5 liters, then in a few weeks\months later do just a drain to get the more new fluid in there for a "in a backwards thinkin theory" of a full fluid change.
I realize that thinking isn't true as the old and new fluid is already mixed coming out. But wouldn't there be more new fluid in there than old since the remaining fluid that didn't come out is mixed 1/2 old and 1/2 new and another drain with 4 liters back in would have roughly 3/4 new fluid.
What are some opinions on that theory?

For what its worth, I'm with the Never Ever Flush crowd.

Front and Rear diff's changed. Just use synth GL5 rated. Was easy.

That's my plan as well. Second drain and fill later to get more of the old fluid out.

[Spawne32]

I actually bought 10 liters a little less than 2yrs ago. (still not changed) Thinking that I'd do a drain\filter change with 4-5 liters, then in a few weeks\months later do just a drain to get the more new fluid in there for a "in a backwards thinkin theory" of a full fluid change.
I realize that thinking isn't true as the old and new fluid is already mixed coming out. But wouldn't there be more new fluid in there than old since the remaining fluid that didn't come out is mixed 1/2 old and 1/2 new and another drain with 4 liters back in would have roughly 3/4 new fluid.
What are some opinions on that theory?

For what its worth, I'm with the Never Ever Flush crowd.

Front and Rear diff's changed. Just use synth GL5 rated. Was easy.

I saw someone actually do the math before about how many drain and refills you would need before you got over 90% new fluid, it was something like 4-5 times. I wouldn't be so paranoid about that though, as long as you are doing the maintenance at a regular interval, you will be good to go regardless of leaving a quart or 2 or 3 of old fluid back in the trans. The most important thing out of all of these services is changing the filter itself oddly enough, because the filter can become clogged very quickly, especially after the initial break in when the trans is new. A clogged filter causes disaster much faster than old fluid, especially with today's modern synthetics.

[ps2cho]

I saw someone actually do the math before about how many drain and refills you would need before you got over 90% new fluid, it was something like 4-5 times. I wouldn't be so paranoid about that though, as long as you are doing the maintenance at a regular interval, you will be good to go regardless of leaving a quart or 2 or 3 of old fluid back in the trans. The most important thing out of all of these services is changing the filter itself oddly enough, because the filter can become clogged very quickly, especially after the initial break in when the trans is new. A clogged filter causes disaster much faster than old fluid, especially with today's modern synthetics.

Also just as important is cleaning the pan for the magnets. They sludge up and then won’t catch floating metal.

[Spawne32]

Also just as important is cleaning the pan for the magnets. They sludge up and then won’t catch floating metal.

Yep, absolutely, ive seen some horrific pan magnets in my day. I'm a 30k miles kinda guy, so I got mine at 89k, did the trans service right as it rolled 90k, filter and fluid, and just got done doing a fluid drain and refill at 121k. Next time around, assuming I still have the car, it will get a new filter as well as a fluid change.

[Novarider]

Our pans have magnets? I thought they were only on the filter.

[mtroxel]

I looked into that, it's because of the high concentration of naptha in the ZF8 transmission fluid. For those of you who have done the job, you know that mothball-y smell I'm talking about.

As a wise man once said;

Lifeguard 8 smells like monkey piss boiling over on a stovetop

[Depthcharge]

A wise man with strange cooking preferences

[A4x]

I'm gearing up for my 3rd drain and fill. Considering to drop the pan and replace the filter, but I am scared to mess with those torque to yield bolts for the chassis and trans brace. My car has been through 8 Canadian winters. What if one strips out? Do they screw into a welded nut or a threaded hole? I have had those welded nuts snap on me before....not fun.

[jfo]

I'm gearing up for my 3rd drain and fill. Considering to drop the pan and replace the filter, but I am scared to mess with those torque to yield bolts for the chassis and trans brace. My car has been through 8 Canadian winters. What if one strips out? Do they screw into a welded nut or a threaded hole? I have had those welded nuts snap on me before....not fun.

The go into a large, square shaped "nut" that is inserted into a cavity in the chassis. It is loose in that cavity, not welded. Look for WHT002305. A frozen bolt could still snap off, making these impossible to slide out without drilling the bolt.

[Spawne32]

I'm gearing up for my 3rd drain and fill. Considering to drop the pan and replace the filter, but I am scared to mess with those torque to yield bolts for the chassis and trans brace. My car has been through 8 Canadian winters. What if one strips out? Do they screw into a welded nut or a threaded hole? I have had those welded nuts snap on me before....not fun.

How many miles since the last service was done? If it hasn't been too long, i doubt the bolt is seized up.

[Novarider]

Didn't sound like he's ever done the filter since he said 8 winters.

[A4x]

The go into a large, square shaped "nut" that is inserted into a cavity in the chassis. It is loose in that cavity, not welded. Look for WHT002305. A frozen bolt could still snap off, making these impossible to slide out without drilling the bolt.

Oh looks just like what those wonderful license plate screws go into. Great!

[jfo]

Oh looks just like what those wonderful license plate screws go into. Great!

Except they are quite large....I think the bolts are 12mm. FWIW, I removed mine after 5 years of salty winters. They are on very tight, so a strong impact and/or large breaker with a pipe.

[A4x]

How many miles since the last service was done? If it hasn't been too long, i doubt the bolt is seized up.

Didn't sound like he's ever done the filter since he said 8 winters.

I only ever did 2 drain and fills, never dropped the pan, so never removed those bolts. Just crossed 100k miles. Been meaning to post a pic to see if they'll let me in the high mileage club.

[Novarider]

At 100k it definitely needs a filter.

[zizouomar]

I do still wonder why some cars are way passed 100k, still on og fluid but their shift quality is good while other cars of 70k like mine will shift like shit and jerk all the time?
Weather condition ? Driving habits ?

[Smac770]

Luck.

[zizouomar]

Luck.

Lol, sad.

[Novarider]

It's driving conditions and style. If you sit in traffic a lot the transmission is going to get hotter than someone that doesn't. If you "launch" it's rough on the transmission.

[Spawne32]

The fluid itself is more durable than you think. Its the shit that builds up in the fluid that is bad for the trans.

[eljay]

Has anyone used the Liqui-Moly Top Tec 1800 ATF for this service?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/top...i-moly-lm20032
It meets these specs:
VW G 055 005
VW G 055 540
VW G 060 162
https://products.liqui-moly.com/top-tec-atf-1800-1.html

[jfo]

Has anyone used the Liqui-Moly Top Tec 1800 ATF for this service?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/top...i-moly-lm20032
It meets these specs:
VW G 055 005
VW G 055 540
VW G 060 162
https://products.liqui-moly.com/top-tec-atf-1800-1.html

For clarity, it doesn't say it has been approved or meets those specs, but "is recommended" for cars that require those specs. It may be a fine product, but they haven't received approval that it meets the listed specs, other than the Dexron and Ford Merco spec.

[Spawne32]

Has anyone used the Liqui-Moly Top Tec 1800 ATF for this service?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/top...i-moly-lm20032
It meets these specs:
VW G 055 005
VW G 055 540
VW G 060 162
https://products.liqui-moly.com/top-tec-atf-1800-1.html

I've been running Redline D6 in mine for quite a long time with no issues whatsoever. If the price is right, I would not hesitate to use it because Liqui Moly is a good product.

[Jeevan]

Has anyone used the Liqui-Moly Top Tec 1800 ATF for this service?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/top...i-moly-lm20032
It meets these specs:
VW G 055 005
VW G 055 540
VW G 060 162
https://products.liqui-moly.com/top-tec-atf-1800-1.html

I can vouch for this. There are many users who are running this without issues. Been running for past 20k miles no problem. shifts like stock and runs like stock. lets be honest her, do you really wanna spend 500$ for fluid and filter geuine parts when your car is over 100k?

I have used febi bilstein transmission filter which is under 20$. filter quality is top notch too.

not sure why people are afraid about using after market parts when your car is over 10 year old. Just because these parts doesn't have audi logo on it doesnt mean these are bad. If the brand is trustworthy, there is no reason to hesitate. if you dont have enough money to buy Genuine parts you cant afford to hesitate.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Novarider]

I can vouch for this. There are many users who are running this without issues. Been running for past 20k miles no problem. shifts like stock and runs like stock. lets be honest her, do you really wanna spend 500$ for fluid and filter geuine parts when your car is over 100k?

I have used febi bilstein transmission filter which is under 20$. filter quality is top notch too.

not sure why people are afraid about using after market parts when your car is over 10 year old. Just because these parts doesn't have audi logo on it doesnt mean these are bad. If the brand is trustworthy, there is no reason to hesitate. if you dont have enough money to buy Genuine parts you cant afford to hesitate.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

What does age or milage have to do with anything? Do you care less about your car after it hits 100k miles? I certainly don't and most here don't either.