Questions you thought were too dumb to ask

[Bike_Pilot]

Question on the outdoor temp sensor on my 2016 A6, whats is the range?
I was driving through a area and it regestered 0*, so wondering just how low the sensor will display.

Thanks

It definitely goes negative. I see that regularly in the winter. I have not paid attention to his far negative it will go. Ive seen it in the -20s F.

[Maustin]

A little background- my 2013 S6 was in an accident prior to me purchasing it. I'm guessing it was hit in the rear, passenger side, 1 panel seam just looks a little off. Other than that, I can't see any other evidence of the repair.
I put 12.5 spacers on the rear and it's pretty obvious that the body isn't sitting where should because the driver's side wheel/tire is poking about 12-15mm past the fender while the passenger side is pretty flush with the fender. Today, the driver's side was rubbing on a few bumps and transitions. I stopped at an alignment/body shop today and the owner, who restores some really nice cars, said to just pull the spacer from the driver's side. Even though it's only 12.5mm it just seems wrong to run a spacer on only one side. The fronts spacers are 15mm due to the camber and are flush on both sides.
So my question is, UNTIL I can address the body being slightly off center in the back, how bad is it to run a spacer on 1 side in the rear? What's this really doing to the geometry of the car?


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[widebodyfx]

From your other post. You're running 20x9 +37 with 12.5mm spacer so +25.5, very near RS5 9 +26. What tire size, not that it matters too much just wondering cause I just put on a set of Conti DWS 275/30-20 and it is closer to your passenger side than the driver side.

I'd get a yard stick and not try to eyeball it, cameras and angles are hard to be exact. Don't think tire pressures will matter too much with how far off you're seeing it be left to right. If a quarterpanel was replaced I don't think they could get it that far off, subframe might need an adjustment to get closer and if you can ask an alignment shop to put it on a rack they could tell you how much toe is being adjusted left to right.

[ChavoQ]

I've been searching everywhere trying to find a k04 turbo for my a6 c7 2.0t and I haven't come up with anything. is there any k04 turbo from any other platforms that will pair well with the c7 a6?

[Johndep7]

Sooo I live on long island in NY which is notorious for God awful pot holes. Unfortunately I bent my rims through normal driving in the mine field of potholes. Is it worth buying new aftermarket or should I just stick to used OEM that aren't bent. I'm afraid of spending 3k on perfect wheels and just breaking them in 5 seconds.

Follow up question if I go aftermarket, what specs would I need to make the wheels flush? I keep seeing mixed things on this, I would look for 19/20"

[MattyMarkey]

Sooo I live on long island in NY which is notorious for God awful pot holes. Unfortunately I bent my rims through normal driving in the mine field of potholes. Is it worth buying new aftermarket or should I just stick to used OEM that aren't bent. I'm afraid of spending 3k on perfect wheels and just breaking them in 5 seconds.

Follow up question if I go aftermarket, what specs would I need to make the wheels flush? I keep seeing mixed things on this, I would look for 19/20"

If you go OEM or aftermarket, you’ll want to ensure they are forged either way. Not all OEM are forged. Both can be pricey, but obviously worth it in your state.

Flush is more so about wheel width and offset, than diameter. Personally, wouldn’t go any smaller than 20” on a A7, but 19’s will certainly give you a bigger tire sidewall for protection against bad roads. A7’s can fit a pretty wide width wheel; 20x10, with some people going 20x10.5. Part of the equation is your offset (et). Any quality wheel shop/manufacturer should be able to help you with precise fitment.


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[RS5ish]

What is the normal in gear idle speed for a 2014 s6? I get about 850rpm in gear at a stop light but if I put it in park and go back into gear it goes to about 650rpm until the stop and it goes back up.

[TexasDfwS4]

That sounds about right, the DSG has a way of keeping the idle where it needs it.

[Johndep7]

Awesome, thank you very much!

[Vesh]

so im driving a 2018 rs6 performance, im the first owner. car has 85k km down right now (im stage2 ds1 with gesi800 downpipes, to apr xpipe and unresonated apr catback, pipercross replacement filter) not sure if theres something wrong with my intake system. like when i do 3rd gear pull at the 5k+ rpm range its somewhat noticable (like im not even sure if its only imagination) (only with valves manually closed otherwise exhaust is too loud to hear anything)but otherwise its never present. is it normal or should i check something? ive noticed my driverside turbo inlet has a slight wobble, is that normal? can someone verify? screws are tight and it sits flush, the flange doesnt move either but the pipe is still wobbling, like it has a litte play on the weld spots. can someone verify? can take a video too if it helps

just wondering as i keep reading ppl are upgrading their s6/s7 with the rs inlet pipes and gain the „woosh“ sound where i never had it at all . maybe my hearing is just bad 🤷🏻*♂️
thinking about upgrading the inlets to something like srm but will be kinda hard to hide it or make it look like oem which would be required where im from…

[Audisthesia]

so im driving a 2018 rs6 performance, im the first owner. car has 85k km down right now (im stage2 ds1 with gesi800 downpipes, to apr xpipe and unresonated apr catback, pipercross replacement filter) not sure if theres something wrong with my intake system. like when i do 3rd gear pull at the 5k+ rpm range its somewhat noticable (like im not even sure if its only imagination) (only with valves manually closed otherwise exhaust is too loud to hear anything)but otherwise its never present. is it normal or should i check something? ive noticed my driverside turbo inlet has a slight wobble, is that normal? can someone verify? screws are tight and it sits flush, the flange doesnt move either but the pipe is still wobbling, like it has a litte play on the weld spots. can someone verify? can take a video too if it helps

just wondering as i keep reading ppl are upgrading their s6/s7 with the rs inlet pipes and gain the „woosh“ sound where i never had it at all . maybe my hearing is just bad 🤷🏻*♂️
thinking about upgrading the inlets to something like srm but will be kinda hard to hide it or make it look like oem which would be required where im from…

I'm one of those that put RS intake on a S. No, it shouldn't wobble. Check the 2 bolts holding inlet to turbo housing ( will require some disassembly to access the lower bolt). This will also allow you to remove the inlet and inspect the flange weld.

That woosh sound only occurs when on the throttle heavy and let off suddenly all at once. If your exhaust is loud, it may mask the sound.

[Vesh]

I'm one of those that put RS intake on a S. No, it shouldn't wobble. Check the 2 bolts holding inlet to turbo housing ( will require some disassembly to access the lower bolt). This will also allow you to remove the inlet and inspect the flange weld.

That woosh sound only occurs when on the throttle heavy and let off suddenly all at once. If your exhaust is loud, it may mask the sound.

hm weird. i mean its a super slight wobble. i just replaced the stock rs inlets with bigger ones but fitment was super bad so i put the stock ones back on, im not sure if it was wobbling before. i noticed it while assembling though and made sure its flush to the turbo, o-ring is on and its a tight fit. screws are tightened to 9Nm, still the pipe itself has some wobble. i will take a video later.

still looking for an oem looking improvemend of turbo inlet pipes, did anyone tried https://shop.eurowise.com/products/c...nlet-pipes-ecs these yet ?

[THCarpenter]

I have the RS7 inlets on the S6, had the RS7 Intake Box before swapping out to the ECS intake.....zero wobble.

I would check your seat, and then make sure you are using the correct length bolt....I think there is two different shaft sizes, so the shorter one will seat

Its been a while since I have had my inlets off though, so I may be thinking about something different

[Vesh]

I have the RS7 inlets on the S6, had the RS7 Intake Box before swapping out to the ECS intake.....zero wobble.

I would check your seat, and then make sure you are using the correct length bolt....I think there is two different shaft sizes, so the shorter one will seat

Its been a while since I have had my inlets off though, so I may be thinking about something different

hm that could be it, but they looked all the same length to me, but maybe theyre off by 1-2mm. will check that later. thanks!

//edit

nope double checked , flange not moving at all, screws sitting all tight. even disassembled all again to make sure. screws are all the same length. pipe is „wobbling“ because the mountings are „bending“ a little . pipe is air tight tough 🤷🏻*♂️.

[Johndep7]

I am installing my new dash cam and I always have trouble knowing which fuses always have power (for parking mode on the dash cam) any examples of fuses that are able to draw power even when the car is off?

[Audisthesia]

I am installing my new dash cam and I always have trouble knowing which fuses always have power (for parking mode on the dash cam) any examples of fuses that are able to draw power even when the car is off?

Green rows unswitched, blue row switched.

[Johndep7]

Green rows unswitched, blue row switched.

Awesome thank you! One more question, could I just use an empty slot (if my car doesn't have a certain feature) or would I have to enable it through VAG

[Audisthesia]

Awesome thank you! One more question, could I just use an empty slot (if my car doesn't have a certain feature) or would I have to enable it through VAG

It is possible to use empty slots (that's what I always do, there are several non-OEM fuses in my photo). As you can see, there's no cutting splicing tapping piggyback addafuse in my fuse box, just clean OEM look. It requires a little more work and repair wires. The end result is worth it, and as a bonus none of your added stuff shares a circuit with other things in the car so you'll never wonder if your added item is causing an electrical problem with something else. These repair wires are needed because the blank fuse slots do not have the metal connectors in them for one side of the fuse; these are provided by the repair wire.

[Johndep7]

It is possible to use empty slots (that's what I always do, there are several non-OEM fuses in my photo). As you can see, there's no cutting splicing tapping piggyback addafuse in my fuse box, just clean OEM look. It requires a little more work and repair wires. The end result is worth it, and as a bonus none of your added stuff shares a circuit with other things in the car so you'll never wonder if your added item is causing an electrical problem with something else. These repair wires are needed because the blank fuse slots do not have the metal connectors in them for one side of the fuse; these are provided by the repair wire.

Thanks that helped a lot!

[Audisthesia]

Thanks that helped a lot!

I posted part numbers for the wires somewhere on the forums along with a photo. There are diff numbers for fuse blade size and wire gauge size.

[NardoRS7even]

this should be helpful--------------

Make sure the mirror adjustment **** is set to the right mirror, Then put the car in reverse so the mirror tilts (up in your case), while keeping the car in reverse use the mirror adjustment to set it to the position you want it to go into while in reverse. Put the car back in drive and move forward 100 feet and the mirror will tilt back to the normal driving position.(Mirror only tilts back to normal when you actually move forward.

Note the mirror adjustment must be set to the right mirror for the tilt function to work. If the mirror adjustment is set to the middle or left position then the mirror will not tilt while in reverse

- - - Updated - - -

If I remember correctly you have to switch to right mirror put car in reverse change mirror to desired level then switch out of reverse fox mirror to normal driving setting then when you put your car in reverse with the right mirror selected it should tilt to the level you put it at for parallel parking.

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this should be helpful--------------

Make sure the mirror adjustment **** is set to the right mirror, Then put the car in reverse so the mirror tilts (up in your case), while keeping the car in reverse use the mirror adjustment to set it to the position you want it to go into while in reverse. Put the car back in drive and move forward 100 feet and the mirror will tilt back to the normal driving position.(Mirror only tilts back to normal when you actually move forward.

Note the mirror adjustment must be set to the right mirror for the tilt function to work. If the mirror adjustment is set to the middle or left position then the mirror will not tilt while in reverse

[AristoPei]

How come I don't see anyone using boost gauges? I'm a turbo guy so forgive me!

[Audisthesia]

How come I don't see anyone using boost gauges? I'm a turbo guy so forgive me!

I do.

[Speedbunp]

Doing the oil strainer recall on my s7 and they sent me pictures of the turbos




Is the damage done already should they replace the turbos?

[Audisthesia]

Doing the oil strainer recall on my s7 and they sent me pictures of the turbos




Is the damage done already should they replace the turbos?

You cannot always tell by pictures alone. Its there any shaft play? Is the 2nd photo the drivers side?

[MattyMarkey]

You cannot always tell by pictures alone. Its there any shaft play? Is the 2nd photo the drivers side?

Agreed. Visually, they look good to me, minus the debris that should be removed lol... no scoring on the side-walls, veins don't look chipped, oil on the driver side (if it is the DS) is normal.

Curious what the dealer is tell him...

[gk1]

Doing the oil strainer recall on my s7 and they sent me pictures of the turbos



Is the damage done already should they replace the turbos?

How many miles is that?

[Speedbunp]

How many miles is that?

It's at 81k miles. 2013 model. I talked to my mechanic and he said the black side could be because the car maybe ran rich at one point but its nothing too alarming. I talked to the dealership and they said that as of now the turbos are good and if there was anything wrong they are very sensitive and I would get a check engine light immediately. Apparently no play in shaft. They took 5 days to do it at Audi Fletcher Jones in Costa Mesa, CA.

[MattyMarkey]

It's at 81k miles. 2013 model. I talked to my mechanic and he said the black side could be because the car maybe ran rich at one point but its nothing too alarming. I talked to the dealership and they said that as of now the turbos are good and if there was anything wrong they are very sensitive and I would get a check engine light immediately. Apparently no play in shaft. They took 5 days to do it at Audi Fletcher Jones in Costa Mesa, CA.

Discoloration is more so from the PCV returning excess oil to the driver side inlet versus running rich. The dealer isn't 100% accurate... many people have had turbo failure, without the CEL/MIL light coming on. Either way, glad the turbo's are still solid by all accounts!

[mrdouble99]

Weird thing hapen today at the drag strip, my 2015 never did that, but my 2018 did this 4 time

It simply did like a rwd car, like nothing helping in the front, side way and spining, twice on the 1/4 mile and i tried 2 mores time coming back to the pit.

Got home, put the car on the lift, front axle are ok, no sound coming from the transmission or the front diff.

Went for a drive this evening, tried launch control in the street and all good.

someone experience this ?

[AudiInMyA7]

Is there something physically stopping my rear windows from rolling down all the way, or is there a vcds thing i can do?


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[MattyMarkey]

Is there something physically stopping my rear windows from rolling down all the way, or is there a vcds thing i can do?


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Nothing you can do. Physical door/wheel-well design limitations

[AudiInMyA7]

Back with another dumb question.

I’m an exhaust noob, but snob at the same time. I know what i want her to sound like but I don’t know where to start to get the sound i have in my head.

I like the sound of the RS7, but is that more because of the engine, or the exhaust? What would happen if i get an RS7 exhaust and put it on my A? Would my car sound similar or would it not be as deep of a sound?


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[Audisthesia]

V6 is never going to sound like V8

[09S5]

So if you go OTS DS1 tune does this tune automatically remove the governor on a S7 or would this be a custom tune thanks.

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[MattyMarkey]

So if you go OTS DS1 tune does this tune automatically remove the governor on a S7 or would this be a custom tune thanks.

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Yes, OTS tunes remove the factory governor. No custom tune needed

[09S5]

That's a good copy M.M.

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[ActiveMonkey]

Back with another dumb question.

I’m an exhaust noob, but snob at the same time. I know what i want her to sound like but I don’t know where to start to get the sound i have in my head.

I like the sound of the RS7, but is that more because of the engine, or the exhaust? What would happen if i get an RS7 exhaust and put it on my A? Would my car sound similar or would it not be as deep of a sound?


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The A7 is just going to sound different. The turbo's on the RS7 dramatically change the exhaust note and it's really not possible to replicate it on our Supercharged V6 motors. I think I have a decent sounding setup especially for running test pipes, but the 4.0T motors just sound better.
https://youtu.be/W312qqwCK3U

[AudiInMyA7]

The A7 is just going to sound different. The turbo's on the RS7 dramatically change the exhaust note and it's really not possible to replicate it on our Supercharged V6 motors. I think I have a decent sounding setup especially for running test pipes, but the 4.0T motors just sound better.
https://youtu.be/W312qqwCK3U

What modifications do i have to make to get close to the desired deep sound i want?

A huge asterisk is the state i live in does emissions tests so that might limit my options


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[ActiveMonkey]

I'm really not sure there is a way to make the 3.0T sound like the 4.0T. If i were to try and build a setup with that goal in mind, it would be the following:

Stock Cats > Resonated 2.5" downpipes (CTS?) > X-Pipe > Custom dual 2.5" piping out to dual Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers 17744.

I generally don't like turbo style mufflers because they tend to be to quiet for my taste however they will stop rasp and drone. Plus upsizing to 3" should provide plenty of flow with increased sound. The more i think of this, you would probably be ok going with non-resonated downpipes but it may shift the exhaust note slightly higher in pitch. The vibrant ultra quiet resonators 1141 are very good at bringing the exhaust pitch down and helping it sound deep.

The below link is a video of my car with the stock cats and i really like this exhaust note. Clean, no rasp, no drone and decently loud. It would also pass smog, but i was afraid of melting catalytic converters as i went up in power. This is the only reason i changed it.
Stock Cats - Stock Baby Resonators - Deleted Center Muffler - S7 Sport Rear Mufflers

https://youtu.be/pZ1bERflcZ8

If i ever have to go back to cats, i am building the exhaust like i list above. Stock Cats > 2.5" CTS turbo downpipes > X-Pipe > Custom dual 2.5" piping out to dual Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers 17744.