I hate my B5 A4

[RagtagXMASTER]

So i poured all my heart soul blood tears and knuckles into my b5. I have owned it for six years. And was essentially never from 2003 to 2010. Once in a while to keep it nice but we are talking between that time the car drove maybe twice a year. The car was a gift from parents and i maintained it well. I did love the car. It looked good and i thought it was quick and sporty. I got a tune for it from apr i but a forge splitter on it. Converted it to a s4 appearance wise. S4 brakes. Painted my engine covers. Updated my interior to freshen it up a bit. All these things i enjoyed doing. I did two heads on the car one timing belt and chain service. New pcv system and vac lines. And the car was in mint condition inside outside upside down. However you looked at it.

I did 2 turbos over the last 1.5 years. And my third is dead now. I don't know what the problem is. All the turbos are genuine borgewarner. Not a cheap ebay special. And i cant make it a full year of dailying the car without it braking a turbo.

I have no idea what is wrong. The car revs up slower than i remember it reving up. People think i have an oil issue. Others think i have restrictions in my exhaust or intake and i have no idea.

I am now at the point though that i hate my B5. And im looking to get a new car. I will always miss the way it looks but i hate it for its driveline.

So long b5 guys. You were a lot of help but i cant take it that the car has a heart attack every 7 months.


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[MetalMan]

Did you ever replace the turbo oil feed line? If that's clogged/restricted then that will easily kill a turbo... garbage (lack of oil) in = garbage out (no lubrication).

[SN95Audi87]

I think its safe to say your oil system in the car was comprised somehow. If you went through 3 turbos then there is more than it meets the eye when you car is running. New hardware mixed with old hardware really doesn't work out unless the old hardware was in great shape. GL on your next ride.

[nynoah]

Sounds like oil starvation. I would drop the pan and look at the screen in your oil pump.

[RagtagXMASTER]

My first turbo failed by blowing an exhaust fin off. The second failed because the thrust bearing wore out. And it got a lot of in out play. And it grinded down all the cold side turbine wheel down


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[nynoah]

Yes that sounds like what an oil starvation issue will do. It will harm the turbo like that... ESP on a cartridge bearing.

[RagtagXMASTER]

How would i check the line. Do i remove it from the car and run stuff through it or do i do it on the car somehow.


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[nynoah]

I think this problem originates first at the oil pump. I would start first with dropping the oil pan and replacing the oil pickup screen. In order to drop the pan you must loosen the lower cross member a little and raise the engine a little to get at the two 6 mm allen bolts in the clutch area. I suggest using a long ballseat allen socket. Harbor freight sells them for cheap. the rest are pretty easy to do and are obvious. Once you are in there clean out the pan and replace the oil pickup tube. Then once that is done take off the oil feed line and run cleaner through it too.

[nynoah]

also if this is an oil issue, stop running the motor. You are going to damage it.

[Turbo_B5]

also if this is an oil issue, stop running the motor. You are going to damage it.

This x2

It does sound like an oil issue, You should buy an $80 oil pressure gauge and sender before you blow more money on turbo or start pulling the pan and shit.

[SN95Audi87]

This x2

It does sound like an oil issue, You should buy an $80 oil pressure gauge and sender before you blow more money on turbo or start pulling the pan and shit.

I was just going to mention this!

[RagtagXMASTER]

So hearing this im on the fence. I really want to know wat killed the car. The car will still start run and drive. I stopped the car after i heard the drill noise coming from the turbo around 3500 rpm. Still makes power and runs but again i have the car parked now. Not driving it at all. Sounds like a big job to find out what happened but i might as well find out. Would this also relate to the car not wanting to rev quickly. The car would rev up pretty quick before. Now its pretty leisurely.


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[Turbo_B5]

So hearing this im on the fence. I really want to know wat killed the car. The car will still start run and drive. I stopped the car after i heard the drill noise coming from the turbo around 3500 rpm. Still makes power and runs but again i have the car parked now. Not driving it at all. Sounds like a big job to find out what happened but i might as well find out. Would this also relate to the car not wanting to rev quickly. The car would rev up pretty quick before. Now its pretty leisurely.


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Buy an oil pressure gauge, Install it, Start Car, Maybe record a vid or let us know what the figures are.

[B5A4coastie]

Drilling is the blades rubbing the compressor housing, the bearings are most likely failing. As pointed out before this is caused by loss of lube oil to the turbo. Nynoah has a great point, oil has to get picked up from the pan first. Sludge in the pan, pickup tube and oil lines will slowly kill an engine like you mentioned. The troubleshooting starts with you dropping your pan, take some pictures and tell us what you find.

[Davdraco1]

When I replaced my motor with one from a GLI, I had to swap over the pick up tube, oil pan and turbo feed lines. I cleaned everything and have no issues at all. I know the pick up tube is only 20$ ish. But you can just clean them.

[Wrath And Tears]

I hate my B5 too. But I also love it to death, and I will drive it to such. Then replace it with a new Focus RS because it's cool and I've never seen one where I live (my new car of interest changes every few weeks, and I'm always on the lookout for a nice B5 to pick up).

Edit: If my B5 was a quattro I would absolutely pour money into it, even if it ate 10 turbos. Clearly there's some issue (with OP's car), and issues can always be fixed.

[JMG]

I hate my B5 too. But I also love it to death, and I will drive it to such. Then replace it with a new Focus RS because it's cool and I've never seen one where I live (my new car of interest changes every few weeks, and I'm always on the lookout for a nice B5 to pick up).

Edit: If my B5 was a quattro I would absolutely pour money into it, even if it ate 10 turbos. Clearly there's some issue (with OP's car), and issues can always be fixed.

I think you will be happy with the new Focus and even the Fiesta. They are deceptively quick and fun to drive. I got to drive my friend's Fiesta ST and I was really surprised how enjoyable it was.

[Radskull1]

Ive ran one of these cars for a week with a seized up turbo, it will go, Just has no power to it, quite frankly i would start with an oil flush, check the lines around the turbo, "check the oil for metal" if its a starvation issue there may be other parts having issues, If not the turbo lines need changed out/replaced, Also there are plenty of people who will rebuild an OEM turbo, its cheaper than a new one :P im running one that i rebuilt following youtube instructions and then i visited a turbo specialist to let them check my work, cost like $20 plus gaskets, bots and a new spool, the guy i went to worked for audi and wanted me to remap my turbo, but if it works dont fix it, these cars are notorious for issues if u fix something thats not broke lol

[RagtagXMASTER]

I wont be touching the car for a while since its a bigger job than i expected. It also conflicts with my work and moving schedule so im gunna have to put it on the back burner. I grabbed a 2005 chevy avalanche that ill put the plates on and drive it around but ill update you guys as soon as i can. Im gunna try and get a pressure reading soon. The inside of the pan is gunna take a while


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[Turbo_B5]

I wont be touching the car for a while since its a bigger job than i expected. It also conflicts with my work and moving schedule so im gunna have to put it on the back burner. I grabbed a 2005 chevy avalanche that ill put the plates on and drive it around but ill update you guys as soon as i can. Im gunna try and get a pressure reading soon. The inside of the pan is gunna take a while


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Another easier thing you could do is pull the valve cover and see the condition of in there, That should take ~3mins if its dirty you probably have pressure/sludge problems.

[RagtagXMASTER]

I wont be touching the car for a while since its a bigger job than i expected. It also conflicts with my work and moving schedule so im gunna have to put it on the back burner. I grabbed a 2005 chevy avalanche that ill put the plates on and drive it around but ill update you guys as soon as i can. Im gunna try and get a pressure reading soon. The inside of the pan is gunna take a while


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[RagtagXMASTER]

Inside the valve cover is clean. No sludge in there. I just did the chain tensioner and it wasnt dirty then. I had a leaky valve cover and cam seal changed those and was clean then too


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[nynoah]

I wont be touching the car for a while since its a bigger job than i expected. It also conflicts with my work and moving schedule so im gunna have to put it on the back burner. I grabbed a 2005 chevy avalanche that ill put the plates on and drive it around but ill update you guys as soon as i can. Im gunna try and get a pressure reading soon. The inside of the pan is gunna take a while


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Yeah be careful with that. That might get you in trouble.

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[walky_talky20]

Inside the valve cover is clean. No sludge in there. I just did the chain tensioner and it wasnt dirty then. I had a leaky valve cover and cam seal changed those and was clean then too


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I've seen them be super clean up top, and still 75% or more blocked on the pickup screen. Top end cleanliness is not always a good indicator. Top end parts (cam bearing caps) are the first to show damage from starvation, though.

[RagtagXMASTER]

Actually now that you mention it. I noticed some heat wear on the intake cam. Thought it was ok and put it back in. Just some marking signs not any serious damage. I thought it was from it being a used head but that makes a lot of sense. Again i need to dig into the issue and see what is going on. Just dont have much time to play with it now. Thank you guys for all the info on this though. You guys are very knowledgable and helpful


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[SN95Audi87]

This is what I do to keep the engine sludge free. Number one, I order Amsoil synthetic 5w40 Euro oil because it can take a serious beating from the turbo/heat. Number two, I use Amsoil oil engine/trans flush (its just a detergent) and I run it once a year around spring/summer to remove any potential sludge. Number 3, I use there EaO oil filter that removes up to 99.4%+ microns of dirt/contaminants in the oil with massive drain back valve. I've been doing this for about 6 years and the car absolutely loves it. Your choice of oil really plays a huge role in the life of vehicle since all oils are not created equal and this car is prone to sludge which makes that much more evident to use it. I believe this is why my turbo is lasting so long but I am killing a quart every 500-1000 miles depending on how I drive it. I going to see if my pcv valve or diverter valve needs replacement or rebuilding. Overall, I know the products are pricey to use but its a necessary sacrifice for these engines to live sludge free and run hard.

[RagtagXMASTER]

Nice recomendation. I only use mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30 with extra large mobil 1 filter. I have not done the oil readings yet but i will be looking at the car soon. Been very busy with work.

I have a question though about a few possible outcomes. If i find out my issue is a clogged pickup screen.

1 clean the screen and hope all is fixed.

2 oil issue being resolved and i need another turbo since it drills. Do i go ko3 used from a 96 parts car i have or should i go ko4 off ebay for $100 or get a used one. I dont want to put any serious money into the car. No fmics and mubojumbo.

3 if it goes ko4. Will my car be ok with its apr stage 1 tune? Should i stay with the ko3.

I know nothing about ko4s. How they fit or anything other than i hear they are bolt on essentially

Thanks in advance guys.


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[RagtagXMASTER]

So i got a video of the play on the turbo. It spins easy just not a lot. I think thats normal. I am gunna try and get an oil pressure testing gauge tomorrow. I dont feel any in out shaft play but there is some horizontal and vertical play.

Link for the youtube video of the play
https://youtu.be/hG9NR1SuKLo


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[RagtagXMASTER]

Also were do i setup the oil gauge on the car. I can not find the test port on the backside of it


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[RagtagXMASTER]

So i figured how to connect the pressure gauge and got some readings. I brought the car to standard operating temps. Oil at roughly 80C+ (vagcom readings) and the car was fine stationary. Here is my rough table of pressures and speeds.


Idle pressure was 25 psi and i did not do 5k.

Everything seemed fine. Now how can i test oil pressure while driving. My issue happens only when im driving and trying to make it rev past 3k. It revs to 3k in like 2nd gear. Then the rpm dips back 2-300 rpm and continues up after the dip in rpms. I also borrowed the gauge and its kinda short it reaches the power steering tank max.


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[audinutt]

Cat is clogged is my bet

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[RagtagXMASTER]

Can i test that somehow. I know the cat rattles at idle now. Someone told me to measure backpressure that there might be a test port or something. Has anyone done that?


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[Wrath And Tears]

If the cat rattles its done, replace it. I won't tell you that is what is causing your issue 100% because I don't quite know how cats effect things. But if you hear rattling the honeycomb in the cat has fallen apart. I do believe if the chunks are large enough they can get caught and create additional back pressure.

Edit: To measure back pressure, you would want to remove the primary O2 sensor (car will run bad) and install a pressure gauge there. Then you just need to know what the reading are supposed to be normally (I don't know).

[RagtagXMASTER]

I think im gunna put a test pipe on for this. Could a slightly smaller diameter exhaust pipe be an issue also. I have one midway were the dp connect to under the car exhaust. A shop welded it inplace of the clamp


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[GOODBYNAAIR]

Pick up a glue shift oil pressure gauge + sending unit off ebay $50 ish + easy install. I have had one for 3 years works fine.

DIY CLICKY

[RagtagXMASTER]

I got my testpipe yesterday and now im gunna try and fab a downpipe for it. Hopefully this fixes it


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[RagtagXMASTER]

So i got old exhaust out and i am now going to instal the testpipe and while im at it make my own down pipe. I grabbed some stock 2.5" id 10' long pipe and a flange for $30. I have a friend with a pipe bender so hopefully my b5 will be back up and running.

On a side note. Its a real pita to remove the cat and dp. On the automatic tranny cars. Dumb hanger bracket on the dp. Also shined a very bright flashlight into one side of the cat and i couldn't see any light on the other side. So clogged cat?

Thanks for the help guys. If this really fixes my problem i might stop hating my car and love it again


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[RagtagXMASTER]

Started to test fit the test pipe with sensors and the custom dp. Not bad. I think its a little tight.


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[RagtagXMASTER]

Got the car all reassembled. And good news the turbo doesnt sound like a drill. I havent really tested it yet but i have a few exhaust leaks i need to adress first. With any luck i might be moving back into the its complicated relationship with my b5


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[Crispy222]

Did you replace the nuts and the gasket between the turbo and downpipe? Those are both one time use.