Vibrant scavenger kit & AGN VC thread. Alternative to oem pcv sets ups, catch cans.

[A1 A2 German]

If you ever looked into the intake of your turbo you'd see how large of a mess the intake of the turbo is, to pull the ic pipe to have oil dump all over the place, to pull your tb and have it look like an oily oven, to see that small pool of oil in the ic. All the result of your oem pvc system which takes all the dirty oily air and dumps it literally into your intake system ~3" before your turbo to ingest it, in other words the car eats it's own barf.

You can install an inline catch can to an ~oem inspired set up which will help some, yet it's still eating it's own barf, just less of it.

You can install a real catch can. And if so you can pull your induction boot after a year using it and your compressor blades are as clean as can be. A catch can helps clean it all up and everything down stream, yet if placed wrong, or sitting at traffic a lot complain about smelling oil. In addition, the top of the air filter outlet of the catch can does have a bit of oily residue around it at all times and a little messy (kinda).

So here's a plan C, a scavenger set up. This takes all your pvc and dumps it into the exhaust.

This system has a couple extra perks too.









So you buy any vc you like and add a -10AN barb to it. Buy the 034 Motorsport block breather bung and add a -10AN barb to it. Buy a ~12" section of flex pipe and have 2 -10AN scavenger barbs welded to it. All your lines will have -10AN swivel females to secure everything together. My vc I added two barbs, yet one will be capped (just in case I do anything extra down the road I have another barb). The last picture shows it how it will be installed in the car. Note the Vibrant fittings, which I placed half way down the lines in the last picture. Those are -10AN check valves (like the oem pancake valves) which simply go inline. What's kinda neat is you delete needing a catch can all together and the system is cleaner. I also am using a ~2.5" "Slip On" flex pipe (it's actually like 2.65" in diameter, so slips directly onto 2.5" pipe with zero welding needed). This is awesome as the whole system is a bolt on/off affair. I simply got under the car, and in 2 minutes cut out the ~5" long welded in flex pipe, with an extra ~1" of pipe cut off at either end. So all together I cut out a 8" section. So the "slip on pipe" gets 2 Vibrant male -10AN bungs welded to it, and is 12" long all together. Now the 12" slip on simply slides in place of the 8" cutout piece. A 12" long "slip on pipe" vs the 8" cut out section, leaves 2" of pipe overlap at each end to place a simple stainless steel pipe clamp on to secure everything.

What's awesome about this too, is the most pesky bottom KKK dp to exhaust flange is a snap! Everyone who's installed a test pipe knows that pita section using 3' of extensions to mate the test pipe to the dp by the transmission while the gaskets falls off and shifts. Since the section of flexpipe is gone (slides off), you can mate the test pipe to the dp pipe flange out of the car, then simply slide the assembly into the car and then slip over the "slip on pipe" to complete the system. Also when you cut out the welded aftermarket/oem flexpipe you can do it in a fashion with out cutting off the dp support bracket so everything remains secure and bolted up. FYI, I've been running a "slip on pipe" for years (yet no scavenger system).

I also found unique non-bolt on 2.0/R8 coil billet spacers which work awesome for AGN valve covers. They do not secure to the vc yet the 2.0 coils already lock into place via the dust boots and gravity keeps them down anyways. I am going to place a dot of adhesive/silicone on the underside of them however to make them ~secure to the vc and make a water proof seal between them and the vc . I also went another direction with the AGN vc and excepting 2.0 coils. The problem with these vc's is they have to be notched and bored to take 2.0 coils. I had a huge problem trying to find a machine shop who could bore it. They where taking about having to make a jig to secure it, and special bores as the diameter is a funky size and there's very little wall thickness material to begin with in that coil pack bore hole. The last shop said "So this is going to take a bit of work, would you want me to stop if it gets upwards of $300?" Lol wut! The solution? Easy! I simply took a 1 3/8" step drill bit: http://www.amazon.com/ABN-1-3-Titani.../dp/B00H3Q6KOY which sets perfectly on top of bore hole and ran it down ~1/2"+. Perfect, I simply just took off the top ~25% of the bore hole all together. So now it doesn't have to be side notched either. The coils still lock into place and can't spin as the billet spacers are notched anyways . Not to mention the most bottom of the rubber coil boot locks into the bottom of the bore hole of the vc, and up top into the billet spacer creating a water proof seal twice.

You'll also note doing the valve cover "stud to bolt conversion" which is cleaner too.

[a4kamila6]

Good shit man. Imagine doing something similar on the v6 or v8 motor

[a4kamila6]

Good shit man. Imagine doing something similar on the v6 or v8 motor

[pbcrazy]

It never ceases to amaze me that you do more R&D for these cars than 90% of companies

[A1 A2 German]

Thanks


- This system can be done to any car (2.8L V6, 4.2L V8 if you like), forced induction hasn't anything to do with it.

- I see people using a 1 line system for catch cans, pcv systems. This is ~bad as the way a lot are doing that is running a ~8" line from the block breather to the vc, then one line out of the other barb of the vc to a catch can, induction boot, or scavenger system. This is not good as you are taking the positive pressure from the block and plumbing it into the head, in turn pushing the positive air into the head charging that the top of the motor.....then asking the single -10AN line to relieve the pressure of both the head and block out of a single -10AN line. The head and block need -10AN each, thus the 2 line system (one for head, one for block).

Note: -10AN is only 5/8" , so to ask a motor to vent everything out of a single small 5/8" line is too much.

Note: They do not make bigger then -10AN, hypothetically if Vibrant made a much larger -16AN/-18AN system (larger fittings), you could do a single line system (join both lines together). However not sure I like the idea of plumbing all the charging positive pressure air from the block and filling the head up. American V8's and all Scavenger systems are all -10AN, so keeps it simple so know to always buy -10AN fittings.

- I should explain the scavenger barbs (welding into the flex pipe). They are not just -10AN male fittings welding on the flex pipe, they are special barbs that protrude into the air stream of the exhaust and actually produce vacuum. There is always the debate that many do not want to do a catch can system as there's no aid or draw on the system (no suction). Regardless of the debate if you think that's needed or not this system pulls vacuum just like an oem system. If you start the car, pull the line to the block or vc off and place your hand to it it'll stick like a vacuum cleaner pulling on you. There's a couple You Tube videos showing people holding up a tissue and the suction will pull on it and attempt to suck it down. These barbs systems are cheap, the entire barb with all fittings including the male -10AN barb are only $20 each (like $12 more for stainless steel).

[nynoah]

Is there a 1 way valve is this somewhere?

[xdewaynex]

Is there a 1 way valve is this somewhere?

In his last pic of the valve cover and lines, hes got 2 check valves laying beside the lines that will be added in.

[ray4624]

any more info on those coil adapters?
Ive wanted to run an AGN valve cover for a while but i was to lazy to notch the VC for the 2.0 coils.

[A1 A2 German]

Here are the 1 way check valves (you can see them in pic #1 also in their packages):

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vp...30hRoClarw_wcB


Coil spacers: www.chopshoponline.ca

Another picture of the spacers or contact VW member: StayGold : http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ntake+manifold