Jermunji's B6 Build Timeline

[Jermunji]

Here's the new turbo installed. (*REMINDER TO SELF*) next time, install the oil return line before connecting the turbo bracket. Wasted 2-3 hrs nitpicking around with it just to undo what little bit of installation I did. ***Link to Cascade German Parts up here in Portland, OR Where I got my turbo***






(*)Also, keep the turbo bracket loose when reconnecting the head in order to get everything lined up easier. (I bolted everything back up to the head before mating it to the block so I didn't have to get frustrated trying to do those header bolts and rear coolant flange later. That was a nice plan. Heavy though





Timing belt took the longest as everytime we'd apply the tension, the crank would want to rotate -> .5-1.0 mm while the camshaft would rotate <- .5-.75mm or so. Undo the belt, straighten them out again, try the process again for the 20th time.


188,312 Miles and we have a new turbo, timing belt, water pump, Tensioner assembly and pulley, apr snub mount, TIP, & Rebuilt head, I'd say total cost was $1400 +-$100 either way. But we are ready to kit 200k now!!!

Took a little over a day and a half total I'd say if I had an extra set of hands the whole time. By myself half the time it took an extra day or so. Now, I'm just slowly adding fluids and listening for different stuff. I wanna get on it so bad but I think I should break it in maybe 500 miles.



Oh and P.S. Here's a photo of the valves. It was hard to get a good macro shot of these, but I thought they were just gonna be a simple bend, wasn't expecting a double bend in them. ouch*

[customa4]

Damn, looking good! Great work. That turbo is so shiny.

[Jermunji]

Ok, so time for a new update.

Been having an issue lately that's been infuriating to say the least. Essentially whats been happening is that under WOT, the car has been acting very funny. Whereas typically when I'm on full throttle the car pulls like a beast and the psi drops from 21.7 to 0 the car has been going from 21.7- (10.5/12ish) and deciding not to produce any more boost then unless I let off the throttle and go at it again. Then I would see it do the 20's to 0 thing its supposed to do. and Obviously the car is still accelerating but at a diminished rate. Or in 5th gear under WOT when the turbo would reach 0/-0 psi it would kind of thumble around on whether it was gonna keep pulling or relax for a second. kind of a slight jerking back and forth as though it was making up its mind on what to do with the turbo not having the extra air in it. No idea what it was!

I checked all my connections even unplugged and cleaned off the N75, rear coolant flange sensor, rerouted the vacuum line going into the Forge DV, and other lines near the turbo as best as possible to get away from any extra heat and maybe get cooled down by the airflow through the TIP, (as I said I was willing to try anything at this point to get it to drive right again! )

Anyhow after reading and re-reading many threads I came across this one and decided "hmm... Kind of iffy, but I guess it makes sense in theory. My MAF did sit around in the carport outside with all the other car parts for a bit during that 2 month period, I suppose I'll try this simple test they said and see if I notice anything remotely like what they're describing."

Sure enough...

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...bad-maf-sensor

And from ask yahoo, This summed up my base test results to the "t"

"The most basic test is to unplug the MAF while the engine is turned off, and then start it. Most of the time it will run better without it if the sensor has failed. This is because the computer can do a better job of assuming what's going on if it is not receiving a misleading signal. The case where this test will produce invalid results is if the MAF is completely dead or not sending any signal at all."

I think this makes since as before doing rebuild I was having issues anyways where the B6 would always complain about the P0171 "Car running too lean" I cleaned the MAF and still every once in awhile would get that code. Didn't understand why it would run too lean considering I upgraded my coilpacks to supposedly more reliable and hotter ones, as well as cleaned my BKR6EIX plugs and re gapped them back to the original .032", and even replaced my fuel filter a little while ago. I was adding it to my list of #NaggingCrapIPayNoAttention2Anymore

I think we have solved this mystery.

[Jermunji]

Here's the one I took with the MAF unplugged. rpms-800, smooth idle



Heres the second one with the MAF plugged back in and I reset the ECU too. I should have taken this one before I unplugged the ECU, its acting fine right now as the computer is still adjusting and this one is with the APR tune off. But you can still hear remnants from after I rev the car is taking an extra half a second to decide where it wants to idle at. I'll put up a better version if I notice it acting like it was again. *note you might also here it "inverse spiking" while idling as well

[Jermunji]

189k Mile Upate:

After repeatedly getting two unverified super secret codes:
(I'll fill in the blank later when I remember what they were) I bought yet another rear coolant flange sensor, and a new N75.

















Update: After putting the car through its paces after replacing the above items. I hit Limp mode again. I went back to the boost leak test and then replaced my suction jet pump revision "B" which was leaking with the newer revision "D". Again put the car through its paces when I got a chance later on in the day and again hit limp mode. I'm beginning to run into a loss as far as possible areas that are to focus on. I hit the wall yesterday when trying to do an uphill WOT at low rpms (about 22-2300) it lasted until this morning driving into work.

I also noticed my secondary air pump is getting louder. But could that be the culprit for boost stutter?

[Jermunji]

Bought another steering pump to rack hose from the junkyard for $60 along with a set of washers for it. It wasn't too hard to swap out. And now, my steering system is no longer leaking. Such a nice feeling to not be leaking everywhere.

Also replaced (I should say bought and plugged in) the Ambient temp sensor and now my AC works right again and blows hot or cold air upon demand.

[BoostedLTH]

It's nice when things work out like they should! Glad it's going good!


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[Jermunji]

Saw the antenna fix thread this morning and made this my mission for today, as my key fob only had a working distance of ~6ft and the radio was lucky to pick up one station depending on location.

Some before's.


The rubber was definitely separating from the circuit board. And the thing was dusty.





I followed the DIY, picking up the swabs and binder clips from the $ Tree. Went to Walmart for the heavy duty hair clips to make sire they would stay. In all, I think theres something to be had here. Testing my key fob afterwards, it worked 20ft away through the front door if the house. My aftermarket radio still has static but I'm now picking up multiple stations as you'd expect. Woot woot!

[Jermunji]

Also swapped out PFR6Q's to some BRK7E's gapped at .28mm. And picked up some other goodies for mañana's project.

Some hose, and clamps to run the boost tap to the P3 gauge




And some ferrite off a cable I picked up from goodwill in efforts to quell the electrical interference plaguing the gauge and radio.

[Jermunji]

P3 gauge now has analog boost signal.



Used the extra port on my intake manifold to tap into. The ran it under coolant tank zip tied to the ecu bundle.



Routed into the ecu box here

For anybody wondering how this differs from norm. Whereas typically the P3 gauge pulls all its info from the OBDII port, including the actual (not the requested) boost values, my assumption is that using the analog boost sensor in combination would decrease the bandwidth overload I believe I've been experiencing causing the gauge to restart every so often. As well as help with this weird situation where its displaying that I normally have -21.7 under vacuum, but never see higher than 0.0 on boost. Time will tell I suppose.

Anyhow here's how the P3 analog boost sensor works in conjunction with the gauge. I had to run the vac line to it as the electrical cable from the gauge to the sensor is only about 3 inches.

[Jermunji]

Update so, i noticed on my drive home that I'm getting upwards of 26psi on WOT. Thats the culprit causing my soft limp mode sometimes when I hold it out. I'll recheck the N75 hose for kinking but Other than that I don't know what could cause tht to happen at stage 1+. Also with the BKR7E's gapped to .28 the car seems like its idling a little rougher than the PFR6Q's I previously had that were gapped at .28

[ZipMeUpJ]

I thought with the fsi coils and colder plugs you were supposed to run a bigger gap??

[Jermunji]

Still have this clunking noise with no idea what it is.

[Jermunji]

190k update

Replaced the 1.5 year old Coolant reservoir cap back with the OEM version in hopes to stop the slow leak I think takes places from bubbling over. Also swapped put in a new MAP sensor in efforts to fix the boost surging issue.





Although I'm becoming more cynical in my hopes of chasing down the culprit, this is interesting because on the new MAP sensor there is an extra electrical rod sticking out the hole that you can see in photo 1 and photo 2 (of my old sensor) just to the right of the middle of the sensor. Well that rod is obviously missing on my sensor. So maybe this part will be the secret to whats going on

[Jermunji]

what was causing my coolant leak.

[csosnowski]

jermunji,

Try gapping your plugs at 0.035. What may be happening is what I was experiencing - ecu is overshooting boost request.

I had some Denso IK24's and I had them gapped at 0.0.25-0.028 with 07k FSI coils. I had very little low end torque and a huge boost spike at around 2600 rpm and boost would taper after 5500. I threw in some autolite 3923's which are equivalent to ngk BKR7E and gapped at 0.035. No more boost mountain and a fatter torque curve.

Generally spark plug gap should decrease 0.01 for every 50hp on the stock ignition. Since we know that the FSI coils seem to throw a hotter spark, we can eliminate that decrease and stick with 0.030-0.035. Seems to work for me.

Good luck!

[Jermunji]

I'll try it.

[ZipMeUpJ]

is that a pinhole leak?

[Jermunji]

From heat cycles. The reservoir just started cracking until this. OEM or bust

[Jermunji]

Went for .35-.36 gap. I'm going to try to fit some time in today to drop the skid plate and do another boost leak test

Edit: After doing a boost leak test I didn't really find anything so I then dissected all the hoses in relation to the N75 setup and I found that the hose connecting from the compressor snail to the N75 actually has no issues other than that in connecting to the new TIP, doesn't reach as it was "formed" and used to the OEM TIP. with the new one being stiffer there was more than an inche of space between its end in resting position and the end of the N75. Due to its natural contour it didn't look like it was kinking but then I had to force it reach and clamp it down to stay put. My assumption is that the extra stress placed on it having to reach that extra distance was kinking the line right where it makes a 180 degree turn coming from the port on the snail housing. So N75 sees nothing and ECU then tell's turbo to increase the psi, until it was strong enough to force air through (at approximately 16 psi on stock mode, or 26 on stage 1+), N75 would then realize the overboost and immediately activate the wastegate. and repeat the process the next time the turbo was requested.

[Mejustik]

Subscribed. I get my b6 back on Monday and reading build threads like these definitely inspire me to do more DIY.

Also, Jermunji, I read a bit of your thread over at vortex and I've gotta say that some of those guys are...well, this is a much better community imo. To think I was thinking of a jetta before!

[Jermunji]

Subscribed. I get my b6 back on Monday and reading build threads like these definitely inspire me to do more DIY.

Thanks, I completely agree. It was the wealth of information and the people who makeup that got me from watching others do it to getting my own hands dirty. I could never go back to paying mechanics anymore.




Also, look what just came in ;) 10ft of 6mm high temp silicon hose. Time to replace those turbo-N75 hoses with a little bit longer lengths that wont kink.

;)


After doing some extensive testing I can say with absolute certainty that this issue is done. I'm back to peaking at 20 psi, but typically holding around 18. No stuttering, over boosting, or any other symptoms of what was going on. (hands keys to wife to drive car for the week, while then begins to fix her gti's disastrous power steering hose leak)

[Jermunji]

After I get a FMIC installed so I can know how all my piping will route, I want to replace the fog lights with an air intake style duct that funnels air to cool the brakes, then install S6 style LEDs as I've seen around the forums. I like how the new dodge challenger hellcat and a special GTI use air ram ducts as proper air intakes. As I'm fairly content with my intake setup, I think this will be an excellent, stealthy, repurposing of the area.

[Jermunji]

Coolant flooded out of my car friday afternoon at Safeway. Thought it was the coolant flange coming loose from the locktite coming undone, so I spent my Veterans day taking that all apart to put on a new seal and use the red strength loctite since I couldn't find an M7 x 1.00 bolt to be an adequate replacement to drill out the hole to. After I got it put back together warmed the engine up then revved the motor to put some pressure on the system and double check that everything was good. It started steaming and I hopped out and ran around to the front to find out it was actually the oil cooler supply hose that had a rip in it only noticeable when the engine was under load. Spent all day in 40 degree weather just to realize I wasted all day.

[ZipMeUpJ]

I did that a couple weeks ago. Took out the thermostat only to realize the "crack" at the top inlet was just a casting blemish smh. Ended up just swapping out the coolant flange oring while I was at it lol

[jpulll]

Have you ripped out the un-needed valves and vacuum lines yet? I'm waiting till after winter to build up my car. Spending this winter saving up the piggy bank and enjoying my first winter with quattro drive!!!
Plan is:
Remove unnecessary vacuum lines and valves
Upgrade rods
Possible upgrade pistons
Big intercooler
Big 630cc injectors
007 diverter
Silicone tip and tt225 maf
Custom 2.5" or 3" exhaust
Tial 38mm wastegate
T3 style exhaust manifold
Turbonetics t3t4 50 trim 63 AR
Undecided on clutch brand but probly southbend
JHM Carbon syncro transmission rebuild kit
And many others that I have written at home but do not have on top of my head. I want to get started with like the basic stuff like the custom exhaust and putting the intercooler on but I'm afraid this ko3 won't push through that big ass intercooler that is rated for 650 hp. Has anyone done this but still seen results? Does anyone think I should add anything else to the build while waiting for the fun stuff to start?
I will for sure be following this thread as it will no doubt help me in the future. Keep up the good work and I love seeing all the DIY!!!

[Jermunji]

I havent gotten the Vac lines ripped out yet. So far my winter project is on hold due to school and job security issues. My secondary air pump went out though so instead of replacing tht I'm planning on just ripping tht out and having APR write a code delete for it. As soon as school is out for winter break though I'm blacking out my headlights and replacing the driverside wiring harness.

[Jermunji]

Got a few upgrades coming soon. Just made a purchase for some rear B6 S4 overslotted rotors to pair up with the B5 S4 fronts, and 6 gall and everything needed to make this happen [For mi amigo A4 Quattro...] as well as purchased some CF vinyl wrap to update my headlights more towards this look. [clicky]

[BoostedLTH]

Nice!


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[Jermunji]

195k Mile update:

So I recently had a conversation with my wife as to why things on the B6 seem to be breaking down at a rate unheard of to any "Honda" owners and I realized it all boils down to three reasons.
1. Car now has ~200K miles. That's like an 80 year old, and what kind of 80 year doesn't have failing hips or what not?
2. My previous owner was a redneck. (no offense to any of my redneck friends but he definitely didn't understand the meaning of "metric" or "tolerances"
3. Admittedly, because to me the B6 is a racekar

Decided to go ahead and do the 034 Street Density motor & transmission mount replacements to go along with my 034 snub mount. Because lately I don't know if it was the cold or what but everything has been vibrating more at idle and when I would let off the throttle through the accelerator pedal, and it also appeared to me that my engine wasn't perfectly lined up, I'd been having a half a cm too much of shift knob movement on and off throttle. And in general like everything has just seeming loose and sloppy. Like that girl you always thought would be the ultimate milf and then turns into a .. well I don't know, but you know what I mean.

So, in order not to waste any of my winter vaca from school, I jumped right into it on friday with the help of my little brother. (He really helped me out on this one cause I got hit with the flu friday as well from my little one who was sick all week)


I followed this DIY Clicky. was spot on except for the tranny mount which wasn't unreasonable to figure out on my own.

The obviously necessary pic of the new and old side by side (This one was the good one, Driverside)



the passenger side was definitely the more time consuming of the two, and would have been the most time consuming of all the mounts if it wasn't for the 034 hardware mishap. I definetly had to remove the air intake and then the heat-shields to get access to that upper bolt. Every bolt came off with ease though with the help of PB- Blaster.

Heres another close up of the driverside mount. Slight tear but nothing unexpected.




Here's where things get interesting. Ripped clear through to the inside. And the mount was dry, no fluid left. It looked to me as though this passenger side mount was already replaced. It just didn't look like it came from the same batch as the driverside. And they didn't bother putting the rubber covering on it when they did it either




And the tranny mount also was in bad shape the mount was snapped in two places. How many times does it take a tranny smacking that mount to do that?






The other piece of trouble worth noting was that the 034 tranny mount was thicker, and most notably that of the supplied hardware they provided for a "5 speed manual" the two bolts for the mount to bolt onto the support were WAY TOO SHORT!!! My brother and I must've tried readjusting the setup for an hour, then removed the washers they provided and tried again for another 1.5 hours before pulling it out again, at which point I then thought to compare the two to see what could be so different between the old and new and voila! I should've known better than to blindly assume it might be perfect just because a company said this is for "my" setup.



You can see from the photo it was something like a 30mm bolt they supplied compared to the 35mm OEM, and thats not considering the roughly 4mm extra in thickness the 034 was over OEM to begin with. so after another 3 hours wasted and a trip to the local hardware store I decided to go with a 40mm stainless steel to safely accommodate the extra length with the washers as well.


Since we needed to drain the coolant a little bit to move the reservoir for easy access we also went ahead and replaced my leaking thermostat j-plug which was cracked, and the thermostat housing o-ring opting to save money on doing the entire housing itself. Now I need to give that engine bay a nice bath

[customa4]

Nice work! How does the car feel with all the new mounts? Shifting better? I'm interested in your thoughts on that transmission mount. I have the same one that needs to be installed, I wonder if my stock one is cracked like that as well.

As for the rubber cover on the motor mount, I believe there's rubber on the passenger side mount because all of the heat from the turbo. It acts as an extra layer of protection. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I think mine was the same way when I did my motor mounts.

[Jermunji]

Thanks my friend. I notice that the car still has vibrations going on but I'm unaware as to whether or not that is a product of the 10% stiffness upgrade of the street density over OEM. I did leave them loose and ran the car for a little bit, then drove it a little up the street and came back before tightening them up, and I think I might loosen them up and tighten them up again. Then just let it wear in a little over time. I must say I definitely notice how much more locked down the whole drivetrain is. The whole car feels tighter, let alone my shifts. I never could justify $300 for a full JHM short shift setup. But if they are as substantial a mod as all the rave reviews say the are then I just might bite the bullet cause I know that was the case with Motor/Tranny mounts.

A4 if your mount is connected to the tranny then it shouldn't be snapped, mine was completely independent of it, alas at that point why even bother having a tranny mount?
And my driver side one had the rubber not my passenger.

[Jermunji]

Look what else came in.



Now, I just need some B6 S4 rear calipers to mate these with. If anybody knows somebody who selling a set for a good price please let me know.

[Jermunji]

197k update:

Testpipe came in Friday so I had to throw it in that day after the GTI brakes. Still deciding whether to sell it for $50 shipped or to cut off that shell and weld it around the Testpipe for visual emission inspection purposes.




After all that hard work Of getting it out we found this out.
None the less we continued full steam ahead as the straight 3 inch mandrel bend to flared 2.5" should provide superior air flow over the 3"to 4" to 2.5" design of the gutted cat. So far it feels roughly the same but the tonality of the exhaust and idle seems tighter and less raspy. Performance wise I'd say they feel the same, maybe a tad (using that term loosely) quicker on the spool up.




Some ipad pics of it in. When I find my camera I'll upload the pre install photos I took






Only trouble I ran into is that aside from the gaskets the hardware kit that was included sucked and did not work. Had to pick up my own bolts, washers, & nuts from the local hardware store, which was worth it to make sure I bought a good set of Stainless steel materials. Also we removed the whole test pipe and dp sections, then unbolted that section to pull the dp from the bottom and test pipe out through the top. Last piece of helpful advice is to twist the sensors in counter clockwise direction first so that when you go to tighten them to the test pipe the wire will be relaxed in the end rather than all kinked up from be tightened in a clockwise fashion. As far as the smell is concerned, I don't what everybody complains about as I don't smell a thing. It might be because maybe I'm used to the scent from having a gutted cat but I can't recall ever being repulsed by any fumes.



Next is to pick up 2x ballasts from europa parts while they're still $99 a piece and the door wiring harness for $230 from ECS unless somebody else knows a cheaper place I can score that from?..


Oh and I'm thinking about pairing some 4" beveled slanted tips with a muffler delete to yield this:



My only concern is that I don't want it to sound ricey. And I'm not sure how the Testpipe will factor in. As it sits, in the video I love the sound produced from the muffler delete. Hmm this one is tricky tricky.

[Spike00513]

Next is to pick up 2x ballasts from europa parts while they're still $99 a piece and the door wiring harness for $230 from ECS unless somebody else knows a cheaper place I can score that from?..

Unfortunately I don't.
Why don't you repair, rather than replace?
You don't replace a headlight if a turn signal bulb goes out, do you?

I don't see why you can't splice in new wires, crimp on some pin terminals, and re-wrap the harness - all for much less than what new harnesses cost.

[Jermunji]

finally found the AZ piece I've been waiting for for a long time. Placed order so I can represent.

[Jermunji]

Got the plate on but had to do some custom work to get everything legal. Here in OR the tags go on the bottom of the plate underneath the letters. When I originally put the cover on mine were 90% covered. So in order to have this looking proper so as not to draw unwanted attention to myself I actually stopped by the police station and asked an officer if I could move my tags to the top so that they would be visible or if they just needed to be able to see the color and that would be fine. He stated that it is illegal to display them at the top and I could get ticketed for them being covered up by the plate cover as well. His initial solution was to take a dremel to the plate cover, to which I quickly explained how that was not an acceptable solution. After another minute he then comes back by stating that the law only cares about the letters and tags being visible so I could cut off the top of the plate and drill new holes to get it to work. Sir, consider it done.



I also dropped in the iridium performance version of the NGK BKRE7E's as I was getting irritated by the misfires I was getting on cold mornings presumably due to the gap slowly opening up on the Cu plugs. The BKR7EIX's (not the laser platinum iridium's) should be an excellent compromise of Cu plugs' performance with Pt plugs' longevity. Everybody says they not applicable for our B6's but I looked up all the specs on NGK's website and can confirm they work perfectly. $23 shipped off amazon was a good deal and so far I'm pleased with the results.

[Jermunji]

198k update:

So my headlights have been flickering, cutting out for seconds to few hours at a time, constantly getting dipped headlight warnings; My led reverse light bulbs have been quitting for no reason at all; cruise control quit working; all the interior lights and control cluster lights have been flickering; windows wouldn't roll down; alarm wouldn't turn on; blinker randomly turning on; and windshield wipers sporadically choosing to clean off my window. Car has been acting possess like the poltergeist.


Since Nene has been sick with the flu all week so yesterday I skipped school and stayed home, and her and Papí were able to get some work done on the B6. My ballast conversion wires $28 a piece and driver side door wiring harness $224 came in from GAP so I was able to mate that up with the new Ballasts I just picked up from EuropaParts. for $99.99 a piece.



I'm pretty sure that all my issues were singularly related to the door harness but none the less I figured that at the price point I could do it all from I should take advantage and just get a whole setup that I can count on for the next 12 years. Spike suggested that I just resolder the wiring harness and DIY the wires from the 12 pin ballast to the 4 pin, but I didn't want to have to mess with getting stuff right while going to school and the ease of plug and play factor was a huge deciding factor against it. If it was summer I probably would have tried it out. Also my P.O. already tried "fixing" the door and screwed all that wiring up.



I could have spent the time undoing and redoing his work but, again school trumps car projects at the moment. while ripping the old out I did notice that my Wiring harness was all corroded at the plug in as well so it was nice to just throw something perfect in.



After driving it yesterday I notice that I must've killed all my electrical gremlins. give me under three weeks for some LED Depo tails to pop up on here finishing up my B6 LED transformation.

[Jermunji]

201k update:

Was at the Volkswagen dealer today checking out a GLI vs Golf R and as I hopped back in to my B6 to head back to school the car turned over but didn't want to turn on! This has been kind of a ghost issue I've been chasing as it only seems to appear when it's really cold or really hot. I had to turn it over twice for like 15 sec each before it fired up, then the EPC light stayed lit up on the dash along with the noticeable cut in power.

Limped it back to school and checked for codes. po171 po302, and po322. The first two I'm well familiar with as I've been dealing with the cylinder 2 and 4 misfiring for some months but with no success after swapping coil packs, spark plugs, and switching them around. Nothing. and as far as the lean code I figured it's due to my turbo/testpipe gasket being shot and the huge exhaust leak coming right out for the connection. But the po322? that's new. "Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal" hmm. doesn't sound promising. So I looked it up on the old interwebz and it appears that it has to do with a failing crankshaft position sensor. Ended up having to show back up to the parts Dept AGAIN to pick up the part for a lovely $78 after price matching the online sources. Drove to work while hallucinating about the CPS dying on me and then having to get a tow in the middle of nowhere. Part swap was pretty quick though. Snip 4 zip ties, unplug connector and unscrew a 5mm hex bolt. done within an hour. Next week I'll tackle the gasket while on spring break.

[Jermunji]

204k update:

Front 02 sensor went out so got that fixed for $80 with a Bosch replacement off Amazon. took care of the P0135. initially tried to use a multimeter to check for proper resistance specs on the old vs new but was unsure of what the readings needed to be as they weren't exactly the same as this thread I saw Here. Also still chasing down the cause of my ridiculous p0171 code, full list of areas focused on as of yet include:

1. 034 Motorsports silicone breather kit.
Just installed on friday. overall was quite easy with only prep work being unscrewing the expansion tank and laying it across on the manifold, no hoses disconnected. Fitment was quite well, only complaints were that the billet pcv valve can sink quite far into the breather hose before resting on the notch inside the hose that was intended for it to rest up against. I set mine near the outside edge where there appears to be a little groove for the lcv lip. Theres about 1-1.5cm of space between the backside of the pcv valve and the rear notch inside the hose. Also the connection of the crankcase into the oil filter housing is way too lose for my liking. you can easily move the hose around without much force. I'm thinking that is potentially another "new" induced spot for unmetered air to get in. I'm also obviously not the only person to experience this. Clicky Some recommendations include using an extra O-ring which I will try out and using the B5 style retainer clip which was already on my old breather hose.

2. New MAF, and have cleaned the new one multiple times.
3. New MAP,
4. New air filters
5. New hoses. (pictures of all) will be uploaded later
6. cleaned iridium NGK spark plugs which were installed a few months ago.
7. R8 coilpacks and have swapped them around.

issues are p0171, sometimes p0302 or other misfires, usually the misfires happen on cold startups. I did find one disintegrating check valve going into the purge solenoid up above the intake. I have a crack in the exhaust at the bottom of the down pipe after the bend where it levels in extension of the rear of the car. Venturi effect from Secondary air injection pump, have replaced the plastic hoses but it is still whining like a banshee. I've shot for a boost leak test but under 15psi the pvc pipe keeps blowing out of the silicone TIP. I'm running out of hoses to focus on and increasing in frustration at this point.