At least 3 flathead screwdrivers
a phillips head screwdriver
a DW300 LPFP kit
a hammer
brake cleaner
Dremel tool/grinding wheel
paper towels
needlenose pliers
soldering iron
heat shrink tubing
lots of patience
3 hands
a coat hanger?
Make sure your gas tank is as empty as possible. I had like an 1/8 of a tank, and there was still a lot of fuel in there.
Ok, so the DW300 comes with 2 hose clamps, a filter, a worthless 3" piece of tubing, a lock washer, and wiring harness:
You can set aside the tubing, you will reuse the stock tubing.
You will start by removing the rear seat bottom. You pretty much just pull up with force by hand, but one side got stuck and I needed leverage. There is a clip on each side, pretty much here:
Lift up from the front. The back is not held in by anything. If you have heated rear seats like me, then you will have one wiring harness to disconnect on the driver's side, and 2 wiring harnesses to disconnect on the passenger side. Set seat aside.
Now, on the passenger side, remove the 3 phillips screws holding the lid on the LPFP compartment:
Inside, you will find a shit load of dirt. This thing is supposed to be green:
Spray the shit out of it with brake cleaner and try to absorb as much dirt/grime as possible. It will eventually turn green:
There are two fuel line connections and one electrical connection on top. The electrical connection must be pushed in, and pull the tab to remove, just like the coilpack connections.
The fuel line connection already removed in the above picture is very easy. Push in on the blue tab on each side at the same time with the 2 flathead screwdrivers, and pull up. It should pop right up. The same technique does not apply for the other one. The other connection requires 3 hands. One must push down on the fuel line with quite a bit of force. It will move ~.25". Once it is pushed all the way down, the same technique with the 2 screwdrivers may now be applied.
Once all three connections are removed, you will need to unlock the ring holding the whole thing in place. Place the flathead screwdriver on one of the tabs on the locking ring, and tap it with the hammer in a counter-clockwise direction. It will need to move 1-2 cm. You'll see it. It will make sense, I promise. With this ring off, the whole top will be able to be pulled out, and the basket down below holding the pump will just be floating around. There is a bunch of shit attached between them too.
The black corrugated hose will just pull out of the basket assembly, and the skinny orange hose has a compression fitting that will come apart. Then you can pull the whole basket out, being careful of the floaty arm thingy. Lol. That will pull straight up and out of the basket as well to make it easier. There is also a rubber ring that sits between the hole in the car and the green part. We found it easiest to pull this up and around all the stuff before we removed the rest of it all.
Be careful, the entire basket is completely full of gas, I just carefully dumped it all back into the tank, and soaked up the mess with paper towels.
With everything removed, you can take it inside where it is warm, and sit down and learn patience.
So here's what you have to work with:
Cut and remove the one use clamps on the big fuel lines at the top of the stock pump. You will reuse this fuel line, but will toss the skinny one. Keep the skinny one attached to the pump, as you will use it to help pull it out. It will not be reused after this. Pull out the two electrical connections from the pump. The black thing with the turquoise and black wires is the floaty thing. This is just set down in the basket into a bracket, and slides right out.
Now you should just have the basket and the pump, free from the green thing and all the wires and tubes. The pump is held in by a circular plastic piece, that is basically 3 tabs locking the pump in by a single rib it has around it's circumference. We had to shove a flathead screwdriver inside each tab simultaneously and yank the pump out. We did not break anything by doing this.
Here is a picture with the pump removed, to help you see what I am talking about:
The black part at the top of the basket, and the black part in the middle of the basket holding the pump, are two separate pieces, but are permanently connected to the basket. We tried many different ways to attach the filter to the bottom of the pump and then insert it, but couldn't find any way possible to do this. The pump must be inserted, and the filter must be placed on the bottom of the pump while inside the basket. The only way we could possibly do this, was to remove the topmost black part. It fits tightly, even with the permanent contact points removed. You can see from the outside, the dark silhouette of the three contact points for the cap that are "welded" together. Use light force with a flathead to wiggle, and snap these parts apart, and lift the top out:
On the bottom of the DW300 pump, there is a plastic guide pin, to help with the orientation of the filter. With this suggested orientation, there is no way in hell that the pump will fit with the filter on:
With the pump in the center, where it goes, the filter overlapped the edge of the basket by almost an inch. Slight modification must be done to the bottom of the pump to make this work.
Here is the suggested orientation:
Here is the basic orientation we found worked:
The center pin must be removed, and one of the three "feet" must be removed to be able to push the filter on all the way at this orientation:
Keep in mind, we could not find a way, without completely cutting into the part that holds the pump (which we thought was fairly important to keep in tact), to install the pump with the filter on it. So, with the pump secured to the filter, we marked it with a marker for alignment purposes.
So, with seal66's magic fingers, he slid the filter inside the basket, and held it up with his fingers, then slowls pressed on the pump from the top. Then, with everything inside, I used the mechanic's best friend (coat hanger) to pull up on the hoop (the one the guide pin should have been in) on the filter, while we pressed down on the pump to ensure it's tightest fit.
That is the hardest part of everything. Then, you can place the top black part back down into the basket. Cut the stock wiring, leaving as long a wire as possible for the pump. The polarity of the wiring is on the underside of the green cap:
You will only be cutting the larger gauge black and yellow wiring. Solder these wires into the harness provided in the DW300 kit. Do not reverse polarity, or the pump will run backwards. lol. Heat shrink the crap out of these, as tape will probably not work when submerged in fuel for the rest of it's life. Then you can push the orange fuel line down onto the new pump and hose clamp it.
Put everything back. You will push the corrugated black tube back where it belongs, but the other one will just be left hanging. Get the basket back into the fuel tank. Don't forget to put the rubber ring back between the seat bottome and the green lid. It's a little tricky, as the ring seems a little larger than the hole, so ensure that you have a good seal before you tighten it all back up. Then find the correct orientation of the guide rods from the green lid. They will only fit down into the basket one way. The green lid will only fit flush against the seat bottom at one direction, so once you have the rubber ring in place, and the guide rods inserted into the basket, you can turn everything by twisting the green top.
You will need two people to complete the last part as well. The green lid is slightly spring loaded, so once you have it at the correct orientation, you must push it down rather hard, while you push the metal lock ring down on top of it, and have the other person tap it back clockwise to lock it in. Connect the two fuel lines and the wiring harness. I primed the pump about 5 times, by turning the key to on, then back off several times. Then I cranked it and it started right up. Make sure there are no leaks, then replace the black lid with the 3 phillips screws. Put your seat back. Done.
Comments, insight, tips, and criticism all welcome. I will post up my feelings of results and differences if any once I have had some time behind the wheel to discern any changes for sure.
Thankyou to Draklore for supplying the pump, and seal66 for your help.
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. I just ordered one for myself and hopefully I will get a chance to mess with it the next week.
6MT: 034 Stage 1 | AWE Intake | EuroCode F&R Sway bar | CR-15
Originally Posted by ericpaulyoung
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