Monty’s Single Turbo -> Back to Twins (Compound)

[themadscientist]

Sick of the racecar exhaust all the time. I am going to try out a 3.5" X-force Varex muffler. I am leaving the center magnaflow 3.5" straight through muffler too. The varex arrives tomorrow, hopefully I'll find time to install it this weekend and give a review.

I don't recall if its the exact same one or not, but I've installed some mufflers like that. They work really well.

[Monty23]

This muffler works awesome in quiet mode. It sounds close to stock with the valve closed. I need to finish wiring up the switch to open/close the valve tonight and then I'll make a video to capture how well it actually works! I painted the muffler black after these photos were taken too.

[UkuRiSh]

Nice, but I think nice backfire can damage the valve.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Nice, but I think nice backfire can damage the valve.

2x no way these mufflers will last.

Besides you can build a quiet straight through exhaust without the need of these valves, etc.

[Monty23]

I think it will last. The valve will never be closed when in boost.

[hibiscusS4]

700 on basicly a base file? goddamn thats awesome i should be for sure able to hit 500 then haha..

[Monty23]

It's not fair to call it a base file, but we have not done any power specific tuning yet. I like that the car is reliable and drives like stock. Power tuning will come eventually.

[hibiscusS4]

ah ok well still impressive either way.

[DieselElectric]

The APB that could.

[Monty23]

I think i can... i think i can

[Monty23]

Here is an aftermarket fuel system flow chart and parts list that I put together for people interested in installing an E85 high flowing fuel system. I highly recommend using carbon impregnated PTFE fuel hose like Earls speed seal. It doesn't weep fuel vapors like the rubber lined hoses.

***Also, you will not need the entire length of hose I included in the estimate as there is extra so you won't end up short. You can try an order less if you want to estimate the lengths you will actually need.
***The parallel setup could also be modified to use a dual inlet FPR, that way you could eliminate the need for am additional Y fitting in the feed lines. Adjust accordingly

PDFs: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3a...ew?usp=sharing

[christianb5s4]

That's some great info right there, a must have for anyone doing a custom fueling setup. Thanks for sharing Monty.

[milehighkid24]

So power tuning?...

[XLR8 Craig]

Awesome information here and a great build so far!

Looking forward to seeing what this car puts down on the dyno when its tuned for more power.

Thanks,

Alex

[Monty23]

So power tuning?...

Finishing up the flex fuel tuning before I make more power.

Awesome information here and a great build so far!

Looking forward to seeing what this car puts down on the dyno when its tuned for more power.

Thanks,

Alex

Thanks, I'm planning to tune on a dyno when my tuner is ready.

[q_dubz]

E85 is the damn BIZNISS!!!

I tuned my V8 for the middle of the road and let the adaptation handle the rest. So obviously i'm not getting the MOST power outta it but if i can't find E85 i can just fill it with 93 and shit doesn't go into the danger zone.

[Monty23]

E85 is the damn BIZNISS!!!

Yeah my car is an alcoholic for sure... it loves it.
If you're ever near Philly/Allentown areas, we should meet up for some friendly rolls.

[q_dubz]

I dunno if you're going to H2Oi this year but I figured after being gone (army) for 6 years I can finally make the trip. Damn 9hr drive but you only live once. A friendly roll would be nice tho I don't make nearly the power you do. I'm still on a stock bottom end .

[Monty23]

2.0 coil conversion important threads:

DIY how to:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-Solder-method
Troubleshooting:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...5#post11953035


My learnings from performing this 2.0 coil conversion DIY:

Time for an update of the positive kind!

Tonight, as promised, I decided to run pin #2 ground wires to a better ground point on the cam covers, as opposed to being routed back into the old loom.
In the interest of furthering knowledge on this coil swap method I decided to only do cylinders 4-5-6 for, and will continue to monitor and compare bank behaviour.

Initial results? I'm back in the game, baby! Went for a drive and was hitting max PSI with no stutters or hesitation. Black lines in 2nd

I'm going to clear all codes in the AM, drive to work, and then report back with whether or not there is a distinguishable difference between banks. The answer will obviously be yes. I'll then hopefully close out this thread (for now) and add a link within the solder method thread.

Once again, thanks to everyone that has helped! This forum is by far the most useful and knowledgeable that I've come across!

What pin 2 are you talking about here? Icm pin2 or coil plug pin2? I just did the solder method and am having issues with cylinder 2/3 open circuit. All the wiring has been gone through and is correct per the solder method thread. I also tried wiring the icm pin 2s to the valve covers and battery gnd with no change.

Please help. Thanks.

TTL ground [coil pin2] should go to the original ground wire, and the power ground (pin 4) to the intake ground point ( not to the valve cover ), the same where the harness ground is. 034 wiring kit is made wrong. It works with the both grounds wired to the same point (OEM wire in the wiring harness), but it is not done correctly. It can produce electrical interference. I have tested it both ways, and the correct way works better.

I am going to try okkim's suggestion (coil pin 2 to harness and all coil pin 4s tied together and grounded at the IM harness ground) first and see how it runs. I'll report my results back here.

Wiring it this way produces a no start condition. Engine cranks but didn't even try to start.
And to be more specific, I only used one ground wire of the 2 harness grounds and left the other ground in the harness open for cylinders 2,3,5, and 6 to connect to coil pin 2 with coil pin 4 going to the intake manifold harness ground (all tied at one location on the IM). Could this cause my no start?

Ok car starts and no misfires or codes at idle. All I did was tie the harness side ground together and then re attached them to coil pin 2 for coils 2,3,5, and 6. Coils 1 and 4 only have 1 ground on the harness side (3 wire). All coil pin 4s are tied together and ground at the harness ground location on the intake manifold. I'll update with a final wiring diagram once I confirm my 2.0 coil conversion is problem free.

Update:

I monitored the miss-fire recognition vag-com measuring blocks 14, 15, and 16 while I idled, drove at part throttle, and at wot (30 psi boost). I have no mis-fires or stored codes and I can confidently say that my 2.0 coil wiring has been successful. Below is an image that summarizes my wiring in an easy to read visual that hopefully clears up an questions future 2.0 conversion DIYers have.

To all, feel free to use this image in any original thread posts so that others can benefit from our troubleshooting.

[jaychen]

hows your varex holding up?

[Monty23]

hows your varex holding up?

Great! still works like new and I adjust the valve from open to closed a few times every day.

[jaychen]

Great! still works like new and I adjust the valve from open to closed a few times every day.

great to know. i might pick one up since they are actually from down under and i wont have to pay shipping for once :)

[Monty23]

great to know. i might pick one up since they are actually from down under and i wont have to pay shipping for once :)

I am not confident that the valve will be able to handle any form of aggressive anti-lag as I have not tested this at all (but maybe it can?) and I don't plan too, but for normal 700whp driving/power shifting, its been working great.

[Meow]

That is a trick looking muffler. Great numbers by the way. Plan to keep it 2.7t for next spring?

[Monty23]

That is a trick looking muffler. Great numbers by the way. Plan to keep it 2.7t for next spring?

That's the plan. You keeping yours stock this time?

[Meow]

That's the plan. You keeping yours stock this time?

For now. Wagons are fun though!

[Monty23]

I rebuilt my 01e selector shaft OEM ball/socket and installed the JHM delrin stabilizer bushing. Next is to address the OEM shifter slop. Unfortunately the individual parts are no longer available and a complete replacement shifter from Audi is $225. Time to get creative. Stay tuned to see what I come up with!

[Zba]

I like when you do it fast

[Monty23]

So fixing my shifter was super easy. When you take the shifter apart, you will notice the shifter ball sits in a cage. Due to wear between the ball and cage, excess slop is created which causes all the play in my video above. I was going to replace the ball and cage assembly with a 12mm spherical bearing similar to how JHM builds their B5 short shifter. However, once I noticed how the parts interacted, I decided to try and just decrease the slop. I did this by wrapping 2 zip ties around the cage and tightening them just enough to remove all the play. I then lubricated the ball and reassembled everything. It worked perfect and now I have no more shifter play .

I didn't take any pictures though but its really straight forward once you have the shifter apart.

[Royal769sr]

So fixing my shifter was super easy. When you take the shifter apart, you will notice the shifter ball sits in a cage. Due to wear between the ball and cage, excess slop is created which causes all the play in my video above. I was going to replace the ball and cage assembly with a 12mm spherical bearing similar to how JHM builds their B5 short shifter. However, once I noticed how the parts interacted, I decided to try and just decrease the slop. I did this by wrapping 2 zip ties around the cage and tightening them just enough to remove all the play. I then lubricated the ball and reassembled everything. It worked perfect and now I have no more shifter play .

I didn't take any pictures though but its really straight forward once you have the shifter apart.

Funny I bought that sphearical bearing and never used it. After looking at mine, I just decided to throw a small amount of grease in there and walla. All good in the hood

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

[Monty23]

Investigating why my power drops off in this graph:



After my tuner showed me what to looking at in a recent log:


It appears VE drops off above 6500 rpm. A few things come to mind,

- Turbo has .64 AR housing and I plan to measure back pressure soon
- Turbo outlet IC pipe is 2.5" to the intercooler inlet, then converts to 3" from the intercooler outlet to the RS4 throttle body
- Intercooler flow limit
- Head flow limit
- RS4 throttle body and RS4 intake manifold flow limit

First change is I am going to remake the 2.5" intercooler pipe out of 3" piping and then retest.

[UkuRiSh]

How about AFR, knock, fuel duty and timing graph?

Could be the Turbo housing and head, I believe you on 2.7 head ?

[Monty23]

2.7 heads with CNC'd RS4 intake ports from Lee

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Wanna upload your CSV? I"ll have a look see if I can spot anything.

I have my doubts about air flow since it's such an abrupt drop off @ 6800-7k RPM.

That's some bumpy graph (especially run 2), makes me think Motronic isn't happy.

[Monty23]

Wanna upload your CSV? I"ll have a look see if I can spot anything.

I have my doubts about air flow since it's such an abrupt drop off @ 6800-7k RPM.

That's some bumpy graph (especially run 2), makes me think Motronic isn't happy.

I appreciate the offer, but I trust Philadot. If he saw an issue with how me7 was reacting, I'm confident he would address it.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

I appreciate the offer, but I trust Philadot. If he saw an issue with how me7 was reacting, I'm confident he would address it.

That's cool... 2nd set of eyes helps sometimes that's all.

That said, IMO it's either s sudden change in tuning or a sudden change in air flow (think collapsing intake for eg.) IMO

[Monty23]

Thanks nvr. Not trying to be rude or anything.

Got the 3 inch ic pipe done. Just need to get her welded.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Thanks nvr. Not trying to be rude or anything.

It's all good... hopefully you figure it out as that will drastically change the way the car pulls if you do!

Also 2.7 or 2.8 cams? At your level 2.8 cams/heads would be a definite asset IMO.

[Monty23]

Yeah I have 2.8 cams.

[slow ride]

My guess is runner length of the intake manifold, but the bump to a .82 AR is easy enough. Any RS4 guys have this issue on larger setups? Due to space on my corvette I run about 1.5 ft of 2" tube off each turbo with some hard bends and have no issues making power yet.