Depends on how you want to go about your modding...I agree that it's a good idea to go stage 3 off the bat if you know you will someday and your car is already in good condition. Mainly because you will probably end up spending Stage 3 money anyway after a couple years of maintaining the car. If you don't, then to me the little things that make the car feel "right" are most important to do first. Those being things like the JHM shifter (if you also can not stand the stock one), pedals, rear sway bar and tranny/engine mounts all make a huge difference in how the car feels to drive. And since I love driving, it makes sense to do those things first. Stage 1 and 2 are pointless to me because I know I'm going to upgrade the turbos someday and the car is plenty fast in stock form anyway. I'd do the things I mentioned above and also take care of known reliability issues like the DV's and TBB. A coilover setup is also a good idea but I would recommend doing a lot of research and getting the right one first and only one time when you need it. Lots of people just want to have a lowered look and spend money on different setups that mostly suck instead of just doing it right once. Finally, always make sure your tires and brakes are up to par with whatever other performance upgrades you do first. It's just silly to add a lot of power and not have the grip or ability to stop reliably. Great post overall and if anything else, I'd just add that ASP has a lot of good products that you should know about since you're out East...cheaper but basically same DTS as AWE for example. Also the EFU boost gauge for people who want their interior to look OEM/clean....
FYI, my car is basically stock powerwise but I am never passed by anyone unless I let them (or I'm purposely testing my car's straight line acceleration against a car that is clearly more powerful). I have H-Sport sway bars with only the rear installed on stiff setting (front to go in w/ C/O's), Upgraded OEM replacement brakes (DBA slotted rotors, G-Stop SS lines, Hawk HPS pads, Motul fluid), 710N's, APR Bi-Pipe, JHM SS, Autovation pedals, RS4 shift knob, ASP street series tranny/differential/DTS, 034 Snub and Stern motor mounts waiting to go in, Southbend Stage 3 OFE clutch and that's about it. Oh, I have ceramic tint on all glass including windshield to protect from heat and prying eyes. Car feels completely different (better) than stock and as I said, my car hangs with everything I've gone up against so far, especially on twisty roads. This leads to one of the most important mods...
Driving School.
I'll leave it at that for now.
FYI, my car is basically stock powerwise but I am never passed by anyone unless I let them (or I'm purposely testing my car's straight line acceleration against a car that is clearly more powerful). I have H-Sport sway bars with only the rear installed on stiff setting (front to go in w/ C/O's), Upgraded OEM replacement brakes (DBA slotted rotors, G-Stop SS lines, Hawk HPS pads, Motul fluid), 710N's, APR Bi-Pipe, JHM SS, Autovation pedals, RS4 shift knob, ASP street series tranny/differential/DTS, 034 Snub and Stern motor mounts waiting to go in, Southbend Stage 3 OFE clutch and that's about it. Oh, I have ceramic tint on all glass including windshield to protect from heat and prying eyes. Car feels completely different (better) than stock and as I said, my car hangs with everything I've gone up against so far, especially on twisty roads. This leads to one of the most important mods...
Driving School.
I'll leave it at that for now.
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