The Official B6 2.7T DIY/Swap Guide

[AudiA4_20T]

The B6 Chassis has always been lost. It has looked high and low for years for the proper motor,
but always felt like there was something missing. That gap has been filled with the B6 2.7T
motor swap, and this is EVERYTHING you need to know.

http://txautonet.com/wp-content/uploads/parser/Audi-80-2.0-2004-6.jpg

What is the 2.7T?

It's basically the V6 version of a 1.8T, with not 1 K03, but two (AWESOME).

What years was it made? In North America, it was made from 2000-2004 and here are the differences

2000: Bosch MAF, bolt down coils, no immob
2001: Hitachi MAF, bolt down coils, no immob
2002: Hitachi MAF, bolt down coils, no immob (ther
2003 (A6): Hitachi MAF, push down coils, immob, SAI (which sucks)
2004 (A6): Hitachi MAF, push down coils, immob, SAI (which sucks)

So which one should I get?

Honestly, this is preference. The 03-04 do have the push down coils and better ECUs, but this involves getting the immob defeated and also the tuning support sucks, so you are better off getting a 2000-2002 A6/S4 harness&ECU and going from there. The A6 and S4 are identical in parts so no difference between which one you get. Also, you can run any 00-02 ECU with any 00-02 harness. I would recommend getting a manual harness but it's not the biggest deal if you can't.

Is it easier to get the whole car or just the motor?

- Honestly you need nothing else from the car so I would look for a COMPLETE motor. You'll end up paying a LOT of money if you don't get something that's complete.

How much should I pay for the motor?

- This has a million factors at play, but a normal 2.7T goes for between $1200-2000. I paid $1200 but then had to get an ECU/fan module/etc.
- Also, the junkyard has a ton of these engines now. Generally if the timing belt is good and the car looks like it was totaled for other reasons, you can get a whole setup for $300-500.

What do I sacrifice with a swap like this?

- Absolutely nothing if you don't want to. All my gauges work, no CELs (due to the swap), and it drives like it was meant to be there. Cruise control is optional, and I haven't done it, but it can be done.

What do I need from said A6/S4 for all platforms? (parts by platform will be split up later)

- Entire Motor (EVERYTHING)
- Trans Plate between 2.7T and transmission (01E103551C)
- Harness/ECU from the 2.7T
- A6/S4 power steering line
- A6/S4 SMIC brackets (if you don't want to run a FMIC)
- Snub mount bracket (one that attaches to the motor)
- Fan Control Module/Harness (unless you want to go some custom route)
- Alternator/Starter wire from the battery down the passenger frame rail
- Some kind of downpipes that fit. I've heard SSAC do, stock downpipes DO NOT

Which car should I start with?

This is also a tough question because it's preference. The easiest one BY FAR is the 3.0 because of the engine mounting, fuel system, A/C, radiator. The 3.0 block is basically just an aluminum 2.7T so it makes things easy. Some may prefer the 1.8T because you can get them cheap nowadays and some may prefer the S4 for the seats/brakes/bumpers/obviousthings/etc

Will I pass emissions?

While emissions varies state to state and technically putting an older motor in a newer car is not allowed, the car itself by this time thinks it has a 2.7T. VAG-COM reads 2.7T on it, you can clear codes, check them, log, check emissions, etc. So, when they hook the scanner up, as long as you have everything hooked up on the 2.7T to pass emissions, it will. This is awesome news because I know it can be a huge pain in some states

Now onto the swap....

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How does the motor mount up to the engine mounts?

1.8T: Drops right onto the mounting brackets
3.0: Drops right onto the mounting brackets
4.2: requires 1.8T/3.0 mounting brackets

How does the motor mount up to the trans?

1.8T: Needs B5 S4 trans plate (01E103551C)
3.0: Needs B5 S4 trans plate (this is a 2.7T trans, 01E103551C)
4.2: Needs B5 S4 trans plate (01E103551C)

What transmissions can I use?

- B5 A4 1.8T Quattro/FWD
- B5 A4 2.8 Quattro/FWD
- B5/A6 2.7T (preferred but needs other parts to install)
- B6 A4 1.8T Quattro/FWD
- B6 A4 3.0 (preferred)
- B6 S4 4.2 (preferred)

What clutch do I use?

- B5 S4 clutch/FW

How does the power steering hook up?

- Use an S4/A6 power steering line

Vehicle Speed Sensor (for speedo)

- This has come up before and people seem a bit confused about it. Basically, Audi made the early B6s (2002s) with a vehicle speed sensor in the trans, just like the B5. So, if you have a 2002, just plug it in! For 2003+, the speedo comes from the wheel speed sensor. This is great because nothing has to be done to have a speedo.

5k Rev Limiter Fix - The reason this is needed is because the B5 ECU needs to see speed. If it does not, the ECU goes into "Safe Mode" essentially. You have a few options here:

2002 Cars: You use your normal speed sensor and loop T10 (brown) pin 3 (white/blue) to T10m (black) pin 10 (brown/red)

2003+ Cars equipped with 01A/01E: You can either:

A. Plug in a speed sensor into the port on your trans and loop B5 T10 (brown) pin 3 (white/blue) to B5 T10m (black) pin 10 (brown/red) because T10m is not receiving speed from that sensor
B. Route the white/blue wire shown on page 14 from the footwell to T10 (brown) pin 3 (white/blue). This will solve it as well and you won't need to use the speed sensor on the trans if you do it this way.

2003+ Cars with 0A3 (S4 trans): You do not have a speed sensor on the trans so you need to route the white/blue wire shown on page 14 from the footwell to T10 (brown) pin 3 (white/blue) aka option B above.

Reverse Lights:

1.8T: Plug connector in, also need to connect wiring on the jumper harness
3.0: Plug connector in, also need to connect wiring on the jumper harness
4.2: Need to wire connector in, also need to connect wiring on the jumper harness

Intake

- Has to be custom but honestly not too hard to do. Some people (like myself) just throw a cone filter on and call it a day. Some silicone and a few aluminum pipes could make you something nice.

Exhaust

- The cheapest way to get it running would be SSAC downpipes, mated to a stock S4 catback (which has decent sized piping for stock and can be found from Free.3-$200). Keep in mind this will require some custom welding, but shouldn't cost much.

**SSAC are *NOT* a direct fit nomatter what people say. You could also use B5/C5 trans mounts with the proper subframe. That WILL fit**

A/C

1.8T: Need Compressor - Reciever/Dryer hose
3.0: Plug n' Play
4.2: Need everything - Compressor, Both lines to compressor, Receiver/Dryer, line from Car-Receiver/Dryer.

*NOTE* Compressor Mount (06C 260 835 B) is needed for both 1.8T and 3.0 compressors. Otherwise you will have belt issues since the angle will be slightly off.

Snub Mount

1.8T: 3.0 Snub Bracket
3.0: Bolts right up like factory
4.2: Need to get something welded - EDIT BELOW

***UPDATE*** Huge shoutout to seanf86. He confirmed that a B5 S4/B5 A4 2.8/B5 2.8 Passat (all are the same part number) core support bracket fits up to a 4.2 core support (and probably others) for the snub mount so you can use stock 2.7t snub mount and bracket. C5 A6 bracket will NOT work.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200603/75dde7e918d3d9fb7b15822d08828f53.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200603/12abe207c9d7094cf29f92138441ec1f.jpg

Fueling

1.8T: Need to get 3.0 return line or rig one up. Use 3.0 filter
3.0: Bolts right up like factory
4.2: Need to get 3.0 return line or rig one up. Use 3.0 filter

Radiator

1.8T: Need a 3.0/2.7T radiator
3.0: Bolts right up (need to cap off small port)
4.2: Need 3.0/2.7T radiator/grind some of the core support

SMICs

- Need 2.7T brackets with some drilling/tapping. Could also run Ebay FMIC

Heater Core

- 2.7T hoses fit perfect

Fans

- Ok so this is another thing that can really go a bunch of ways. The 2.7T ECU knows nothing of the fans in the S4/A6, because the 2.7T fan circuit is literally a different harness and module altogether. The B6 chassis use the ECU to control the fans so this becomes a problem.

So, you could:

1. Get the B5 S4 fan module and wire that in
2. Get a universal fan switch and hook that up to the B6 module to trigger the fans. There is a Hayden unit (3647 Adjustable Thermostatic Fan Control) for $35
3. Use the stock fan module on your car and wire it up like a relay using the sensor on the lower fan switch as the trigger. It's already pre-wired for the 2.7T. This is a bit easier on the 4.2 since it has a different module for each fan but it can be done on the 1.8T/3.0.

How to use stock fan module: The factory module is basically a big relay. Just give one of the small wires switched 12V power and use the other as a ground. The lower rad switch completes a circuit so you can use that to your advantage

Also, when you're deleting the mechanical fan, you can get these two pieces (078109123BA + N90216904) to cover up the area where the fan was. JHM sells a piece as well.

Wiring

- So everyone is freaking out about this wiring and it's not easy. Will I help you? Sure. Will I hold your hand and tell you where each wire goes? No. I was making harnesses for these cars but I will not be from January 2019 on. I will be posting all of my wiring online for people to use. Please do your homework first.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

B6 to APB Diagram. ***WARNING: IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A B6 NOR AN APB, THIS WILL NOT WORK FOR YOU.***

This is the diagram I've been making harnesses for the last 6+ years with. Enjoy

http://www.clintonmasterson.com/images/audizine/B6APB.png

B6 to BEL Diagram. ***WARNING: IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A B6 NOR A BEL, THIS WILL NOT WORK FOR YOU.***

http://www.clintonmasterson.com/images/audizine/B6BEL.png

B7 to APB Diagram **YOU WILL NEED TO RUN A RELAY TO TRIGGER YOUR FUEL PUMP***

http://www.clintonmasterson.com/images/audizine/B720APB.png

Troubleshooting:

Car doesn't turn over?

If not, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT worry about the ECU or anything related. This system is completely divorced from the engine.

Steps to check:

If you have a starting relay in place (recommended):
1. Bypass the relay by putting a large wire in between the main leads. If this works, your clutch switch isn’t grounding the grey/white wire. Fix that
2. Check for 12V switched power on the chassis side Brown plug pin 4 (black/red). If this wire has power, somehow it’s not making its way to the other side of your relay. Fix that
3. Make sure the accessory harness is hooked up (includes ground for the battery and small wire to the starter).

Car doesn't start?

Is the CEL on WHEN THE KEY IS ON ACCESSORY (dash/radio on)?:
If not, your ECU is not getting power. The car uses this as it’s own troubleshooting mechanism
1. APB - for some reason, Orange Plug pin 5 (black/blue) is not getting power. This is the power for the ECU and injectors
2. BEL - for some reason, Orange Plug pin 1 (red/green) is not getting power. This is the power for the ECU and injectors

CEL is on but still won’t start:
Your ECU is blocking the fuel pump (assuming you set it up properly)
Usually this only happens if your crank position sensor is bad
1. Check for codes
2. Log RPM (or look at the tach when cranking). It should be a CONSISTENT 200rpm, not sometimes, and not random values. If it’s not, replace the Crank position sensor. No, I don’t care that it was fine from the car you pulled it from or it was brand new, it’s bad, replace it.

You have no spark:
1. Check your ICMs, they could be backwards
2. APB - Check orange plug pin 1, this is your coils. They should have 12V when the key is on acc. If they do not, fix that.
3. BEL - Check orange plug pin 1, this is your coils. They should have 12V when the key is on acc. If they do not, fix that.

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Please let me know if I've forgotten anything or if you have extra questions and I will add them to the DIY thread

Thanks,
Clint

[widgget]

great post, makes it sound so easy.
now to find the money to do this. and then some more to build the engine.

[CoreyRS]

This is def my next mod after I plastidip my grilles...

[Low-n-Slow A4]

This is great!

[AudiA4_20T]

great post, makes it sound so easy.
now to find the money to do this. and then some more to build the engine.

lol you don't need to they make 500whp on a stock block

[vhstejskal]

Wow, the clif notes version of your build/swap... Needs to be added to the Wiki... [up]

[jursch2211]

Clint, nice meeting you at SOWO. Car sounded amazing!

[movement360]

Awesome Clint, thanks for this, I hope to go to a 2.7 someday...

[daihashi]

I could kiss you [hail].. but luckily for both of us I won't. Thanks for piecing this together.

[fitMINT]

you kind of make it sound too easy...maybe thats not the case?

also you can mate this engine to a 5 sp or 6 sp FWD trans right? for those of us without quattro

[AudiA4_20T]

you kind of make it sound too easy...maybe thats not the case?

also you can mate this engine to a 5 sp or 6 sp FWD trans right? for those of us without quattro

It actually is pretty easy. Easier than doing rods or a motor build. Yes you can bolt it up to FWD, same bellhousing

[Charles.waite]

This is def my next mod after I plastidip my grilles...

HAHAHA!

Clint you make this sound so easy. Forget going GTRS, when a 2.7t engine swap is now a "bolt in" mod!

This is a pretty epic post though, thanks a million for compiling all this info for us mere mortals.

[Charles.waite]

you kind of make it sound too easy...maybe thats not the case?

also you can mate this engine to a 5 sp or 6 sp FWD trans right? for those of us without quattro

That would leak to some pretty awesome FWD burnouts, and a really terrible car to drive. I really don't see the point of a 2.7t FWD however I see how it might be beneficial at the strip.

[fitMINT]

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/34670_416523154838_607939838_4388090_5938197_n.jpg

this is why. my car is finished and paid off, theres no way i would just get another a4 for the need of quattro. 2.7 swap and i think it would be perfect

how much total do you think everything would cost? maybe 3k spent on everything? (lets say you got a motor for 1500)

[Charles.waite]

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/34670_416523154838_607939838_4388090_5938197_n.jpg

this is why. my car is finished and paid off, theres no way i would just get another a4 for the need of quattro. 2.7 swap and i think it would be perfect

how much total do you think everything would cost? maybe 3k spent on everything? (lets say you got a motor for 1500)

Just Sayin' (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/381996-FWD-to-AWD-Conversion)

But yea man, not having a payment on a car is freaking awesome so I feel you on that. The 2.7 is just such a SWEET engine...[drool]

[ANDROID184]

Dam custom made plug and play harness, thats fucking awesome. I'll wait beofre I bother clint to get a
ruff price. Id love to do this to my cabby

[bondar1989]

Excellent Thread you started here Clint, It makes things a bit easier. Thank you.[up]

[Gmoney]

awesome DIY!!!! Thanks Clint

[DownhillA4]

Clint, so awesome. Great meeting you this weekend as well!!!

[Johnny1.8T]

Why was i always under the impression that the 2.7T was only able to fit in a 1.8T chassis with a bit of modification?

Correct me if i read the OP wrong, but the way i took it was that the 2.7T is able to be dropped into a 1.8T chassis as long as i got a 3.0 core support or had something custom made..?

[AudiA4_20T]

Why was i always under the impression that the 2.7T was only able to fit in a 1.8T chassis with a bit of modification?

Correct me if i read the OP wrong, but the way i took it was that the 2.7T is able to be dropped into a 1.8T chassis as long as i got a 3.0 core support or had something custom made..?

I don't understand what you're unsure about. You need a 3.0 rad and some modding for the snub mount

[Johnny1.8T]

Its not that im unsure about it, i just thought i remember hearing people say that swapping a 1.8T to a 2.7T would need extensive modifications. But all it takes (talking about just getting the motor to sit in the car, not wiring, fuel, etc) is the 3.0 core support and whatever is needed to fit a snub mount?

[theboss]

clint do you have any videos of your car? i bet it sounds amazing!

[Charles.waite]

Its not that im unsure about it, i just thought i remember hearing people say that swapping a 1.8T to a 2.7T would need extensive modifications. But all it takes (talking about just getting the motor to sit in the car, not wiring, fuel, etc) is the 3.0 core support and whatever is needed to fit a snub mount?

The block is mounted exactly the same way as the 3.0 because its basically the same block. so its basically a direct fit into the B6 chassis.

[Black_Pearl_B6]

this really makes me wanna sell my fully built stroker setup in the garage and just go this route. this is a great thread clint!

[AudiA4_20T]

clint do you have any videos of your car? i bet it sounds amazing!

Dude it sounds epic. I'll get my roommate to snap a clip but I might wait until my rev limiter isn't 5k lol. I'm in Dallas until Thursday anyway

[B6NOTS4]

Awesome DIY, Bravo Clint :-)

[boy412]

Thanks for the concise writeup! [wrench]

[quattroloco]

Im getting a 2000 or 2001 a6 MT and doing the engine and trans swap into my b6 a4 avant. Im reading your build now and want to say thanks for soooo much good information and really taking the guess work out of it. I have a 2002 3.0 tip so it looks pretty straight forward. i might need a harness if i get overwelmed but my question for now is will the b5 ecu replace my b6? i dont have to worry about imobilizer? is that different than my key imobilizer? did you have to recode your keys? I hope these dont sound like rediculous questions but my experience is more with wrenchs than computers.

[golgo13]

stage 3 with rs6's...cant wait for all parts to come in.

[golgo13]

BTW per vast emails they said that I may use my clutchmaster flywheel...or actual clutch.... one or the other cant remember right now..

[AudiA4_20T]

Im getting a 2000 or 2001 a6 MT and doing the engine and trans swap into my b6 a4 avant. Im reading your build now and want to say thanks for soooo much good information and really taking the guess work out of it. I have a 2002 3.0 tip so it looks pretty straight forward. i might need a harness if i get overwelmed but my question for now is will the b5 ecu replace my b6? i dont have to worry about imobilizer? is that different than my key imobilizer? did you have to recode your keys? I hope these dont sound like rediculous questions but my experience is more with wrenchs than computers.

That's fine. Stupid computers, can't everything just have carbs like the old days! haha.

Anyways

1. You now use the 2.7T ECU, your B6 ECU is not needed
2. The B5 (well at least 00-02) does not have Immobilizer so you just plug it in and you're good to go. The ECU houses the immob so if it's not there the car is fine with that. You don't have to recode anything or mess with any immobilizer

[AudiA4_20T]

BTW per vast emails they said that I may use my clutchmaster flywheel...or actual clutch.... one or the other cant remember right now..

They were referring to the clutch itself, not the flywheel

[mikeyvuitton]

Posting this up:



How exactly does the 2.7 bolt to a 4.2 trans?

Bolts right up. Use B5 S4 trans spacer.

[audi_nightrider]

damn...

Now I need to save money and go this route!

Clint, you should start piecing a 2.7T engine swap "Kit" and sell it as a whole lol

[AudiA4_20T]

damn...

Now I need to save money and go this route!

Clint, you should start piecing a 2.7T engine swap "Kit" and sell it as a whole lol

wouldn't be much in it other than a harness and power steering line.

[quattroloco]

hence DIY in the title...

[quickspeed]

If this was done with a B6 S4 could you in theory replace the front radiator support with one out of a 3.0 B6?
That way the radiator can go on without any modification and the snub mount will fit directly from the 2.7 in it.

[AudiA4_20T]

If this was done with a B6 S4 could you in theory replace the front radiator support with one out of a 3.0 B6?
That way the radiator can go on without any modification and the snub mount will fit directly from the 2.7 in it.

if you had the fans than yes. The front clips are usually ~$500+ though. I have a rad support from a 3.0 that I'm trying to get rid of

[gottaBdope]

I think I've found my calling...once I make it back to the mainland. I've already started looking for 2.7t engines. I this route will be the best bang for buck...prolly spend way more on trying to make the 1.8t this powerful and it'll take a lot longer...and be stretched to it's limits.

Thanks for this write up man! Why couldn't I have had an Audi when I lived in Florida...hah

[IVRINGS]

How does the motor mount up to the trans?

1.8T: Needs B5 S4 trans plate (not verified)
Aren't the other two with the swap running with one. The black wagaon and the other silver sedan are the ones I'm talking about.

[quickspeed]

Does anything have to be done for a fuel system return or simply connect the old fuel lines to the 2.7T?

[B6NOTS4]

Clint :-) you rock, love the DIY..that is all.

[AudiA4_20T]

Does anything have to be done for a fuel system return or simply connect the old fuel lines to the 2.7T?

You need to add a return line on the 4.2, every question you've asked is pretty much answered

[Gmoney]

Definitely great DIY. Thank you

[davkav]

Great Post Clint, fair play to you!

[AfourQ]

Aren't the other two with the swap running with one. The black wagaon and the other silver sedan are the ones I'm talking about.


Yup I am using the plate......

[quattroloco]

Clint I got a car!!! Co-part baby! today i won a 2000 A6 2.7t with a 6 speed mt! you couldnt peel this smile off my face. I already have a 2002 B6 a4 avant with the 3.0 and 5 speed tip. I only paid $1400 and it runs and drives... minor damage to the passenger fender. Im gonna take all the neccesary parts for the swap and sell off the rest. Im gonna need a custom harness and i have a few ?'s... someone said the only manual trans that would fit would be a 02 or 03 from a 3.0 but im thinking if im swapping the 2.7 also... arent they all 01E's? audi called it a EDU?

[AudiA4_20T]

Clint I got a car!!! Co-part baby! today i won a 2000 A6 2.7t with a 6 speed mt! you couldnt peel this smile off my face. I already have a 2002 B6 a4 avant with the 3.0 and 5 speed tip. I only paid $1400 and it runs and drives... minor damage to the passenger fender. Im gonna take all the neccesary parts for the swap and sell off the rest. Im gonna need a custom harness and i have a few ?'s... someone said the only manual trans that would fit would be a 02 or 03 from a 3.0 but im thinking if im swapping the 2.7 also... arent they all 01E's? audi called it a EDU?

Congrats! You can use the 01E from the A6, might need to modify the trans flanges or get some custom axles, and you're going to need a rear diff and maybe driveshaft but those shouldn't be too much. I would need to check on that for you. I have no idea what EDU means.

$1400 is a hell of a deal for a full car with all motor pieces AND the trans... Damn. And you already have the 3.0 so A/C, snub mount, and fuel setup are all done

[quattroloco]

so its possible the rear diff and axles from the a6 wont bolt up in the b6... i guess we'll know when its done. Im going to tear the engine down and freshen everything up and try to do the turbo upgrades before it goes in. the 3.0 is still strong so I can thrash on it for a while while I build the swap.

[AudiA4_20T]

so its possible the rear diff and axles from the a6 wont bolt up in the b6... i guess we'll know when its done. Im going to tear the engine down and freshen everything up and try to do the turbo upgrades before it goes in. the 3.0 is still strong so I can thrash on it for a while while I build the swap.

The rear diff and driveshaft 100% will not. The axles might

[quattroloco]

theres a local 4x4 shop that can make a custom driveshaft out of the two stock ones... so i need a 01e rear diff from a b6? what about your plug n play custom harness? do you want vin#'s?
i dont want to take this thread over so maybe i should start a build thread under b6a4...

[quattroloco]

clint have both cooling setups on the cars... c5 fans modules harness ect... b6 setup... what do you think would be the easiest way to go. someone wants the clutch fan and the other two electric fans from the c5 but im not sure if i need them.

it looks like easiest is use the c5 module to control the b6 3.0 fans... so i wouldnt need the c5 fans except should i keep the clutch fan... i thought you deleted it.

[AudiA4_20T]

clint have both cooling setups on the cars... c5 fans modules harness ect... b6 setup... what do you think would be the easiest way to go. someone wants the clutch fan and the other two electric fans from the c5 but im not sure if i need them.

it looks like easiest is use the c5 module to control the b6 3.0 fans... so i wouldnt need the c5 fans except should i keep the clutch fan... i thought you deleted it.

Ditch the clutch fan. I left the pulley on there but VAST makes a delete kit (might save a few hp I guess). Anyways yes you keep the electric fans but use the 2.7T module. It's a completely separate system from the engine wiring and uses the lower rad hose thermoswitch (black coolant sensor)

[AudiA4_20T]

Btw, public service announcement

If you don't have the fans wired, blowing the heat on high will keep the engine temp under control. This has been tested for weeks in South Florida so you know it's good lol

[quattroloco]

opk thats what i needed to know... thanks, will be selling the c5 fans now.

[quattroloco]

Clint here is the fan system from a C5 A6
1. control module... both fans and the thermoswitch run to it
2. thermoswitch
3. the power runs through a 40 amp fuse and the small blue power wire runs through a 5amp
4. positive, ground, and plug 06U8 goes into the main loom.
hope this helps let me know if you need something more specific.
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/DSC07866.JPG
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/DSC07867.JPG

[quattroloco]

theres two other plugs on the harness... one 4-prong plug goes to the pasenger side of the ac condensor up by the headlight and the other 1-wire plug goes to the front of the motor near the (thermostat?)

[AudiA4_20T]

The single wire plug goes right to the AC compressor I think. Need to dig into this more. I might just get a separate fan setup

[quattroloco]

i looks likt the other wires are for oil pressure or temp... that tube that runs back and forth in front of the ac condensor? im assuming that one plug that goes into the main loom is for gauges and warning lights...

[BASARAB]

damn, I thought about copart right away too. The whole build will cost 5k with parts and labor. How would that compare to stage 3 money and power wise?

[quattroloco]

damn, I thought about copart right away too. The whole build will cost 5k with parts and labor. How would that compare to stage 3 money and power wise?

not sure what you mean... all the parts are there and shouldnt even be that expensive... yeah you could pay someone to do it but doesnt that take the fun out of it...
Stage three what? 1.8t? I dont know, ive never owned one but im sure guys on here could speak for that... but as far as cost vs power personally I wouldnt compare the two because I feel the larger v6 can be mildly tuned for something south of 500hp but pushing a 1.8t to that level is at the edge of that motors limits. starting with a fair amount of dispacement and adding FI is usually a safe way to go.

[quickspeed]

The single wire plug goes right to the AC compressor I think. Need to dig into this more. I might just get a separate fan setup

Im going to try to splice the B6 3.0 fan module and get that one to power the fans since it came with my clip (Unless it's the same?)

[AudiA4_20T]

Im going to try to splice the B6 3.0 fan module and get that one to power the fans since it came with my clip (Unless it's the same?)

You won't be able to. B6 fans are triggered by ECU signal, B5 are triggered by thermoswitch in the lower rad hose. You need to either use the B5 or get a standalone fan controller unit (which honestly might be easier). The downside to not running the B5 one is that u lose the secondary water pump

[J Boy]

Subbed, I wanna see more of these

[golgo13]

MAke a DIY using my motor..... that way I can see all of the progress without having to call or text you all the time LOL.

[dougyfresh]

Btw, public service announcement

If you don't have the fans wired, blowing the heat on high will keep the engine temp under control. This has been tested for weeks in South Florida so you know it's good lol

Learned that in high school on a Chrysler Le-Baron.

[quickspeed]

Current setup I'm going with.

Motor:
Frankenturbo F4HT's
Catless Downpipes
Ceramic Coating stock Manifolds.
JHM FMIC
GMG Diverter Valves
Samco Hoses
APR Bi-Pipe
Meth Injection
FSI Coils w/ICM Delete
Clutch Fan Delete/ 3.0 Frans

Fueling:
044 Pump
3.0 Filter
034 Fuel Rail w/ 034 fuel lines
ev14 60lb injectors
85mm AWE MAF

Trans:
AASCO LWFW
Vast Stage 3 Clutch with RS4 Pressure Plate

Everything's ordered just waiting for it to arrive.
Nothing to crazy, but it'll still have great power.
It'll be my daily and taking care of things like ICM deletes so no coil issues occur.

Any other ideas to add to that?

[quickspeed]

Motor Mounts: 8E0199351M & 8E0199352N
Transmission Spacer Plate: 01E103551C
Speed Sensor: 012409191D
3.0 Fuel Return Line: 8E0 121 109 A
3.0 Coolant Line: 8E0 201 215 C
Radiator: 8E0121251C
AC Lines:L/U 8E0260707AB 8E0260701AS
AC Condensor: 8E0260403B
Power Steering Line: 8D1422893BF

[quattroloco]

You won't be able to. B6 fans are triggered by ECU signal, B5 are triggered by thermoswitch in the lower rad hose. You need to either use the B5 or get a standalone fan controller unit (which honestly might be easier). The downside to not running the B5 one is that u lose the secondary water pump

i know you can figure it out with your Bentley ( the picture of the dry erase board covered in schematics in your build thread was amazing ) but if i can help Im willing to follow the main plug to see where every wire goes exactly... how important is the secondary water pump? sounds kinda useful... hahaha.

[dougyfresh]

Current setup I'm going with.

Motor:
Frankenturbo F4HT's
Catless Downpipes
Ceramic Coating stock Manifolds.
JHM FMIC
GMG Diverter Valves
Samco Hoses
APR Bi-Pipe
Meth Injection
FSI Coils w/ICM Delete
Clutch Fan Delete/ 3.0 Frans

Fueling:
044 Pump
3.0 Filter
034 Fuel Rail w/ 034 fuel lines
ev14 60lb injectors
85mm AWE MAF

Trans:
AASCO LWFW
Vast Stage 3 Clutch with RS4 Pressure Plate

Everything's ordered just waiting for it to arrive.
Nothing to crazy, but it'll still have great power.
It'll be my daily and taking care of things like ICM deletes so no coil issues occur.

Any other ideas to add to that?

I woul dhave done ER side mounts.

[quickspeed]

i know you can figure it out with your Bentley ( the picture of the dry erase board covered in schematics in your build thread was amazing ) but if i can help Im willing to follow the main plug to see where every wire goes exactly... how important is the secondary water pump? sounds kinda useful... hahaha.

Assuming the secondary water pump is the auxiliary water pump, you don't need it. 034 motorsports has a hose that acts as a delete kit for it, you just need to let your car cool down before you shut it off.

[nefkntym]

I woul dhave done ER side mounts.

Jhm has a 3" thick core, you have to do a ridiculous amount of trimming to get it to fit, I learned that with the VR6. I went with the ER side mounts, they fit amazingly well, going by the instructions. No trimming needed so far, possibly for the shrouds though.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cgSbbdX4_UE/T-qXUypoiEI/AAAAAAAABi4/-Qg1bcw810Q/s640/CIMG3634.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B1I8Lpm3tF4/T-qXVeAAzUI/AAAAAAAABjA/kDUkYYlsjwM/s640/CIMG3635.JPG

[nefkntym]

Assuming the secondary water pump is the auxiliary water pump, you don't need it. 034 motorsports has a hose that acts as a delete kit for it, you just need to let your car cool down before you shut it off.

Got rid of this too, car will always be on turbo timer. It's not needed.

[nefkntym]

If you have a 1.8 tip, the auto subframe uses the same trans mounting points as the 01E/01A. If you swap to B5/C5 trans mounts and 1.8t subframe gusset plates and get rid of the B6 wishbone trans mount, just about any downpipe set will fit. I have 034 770 downpipes, they fit perfectly and they are based off of their K flange 3" downpipes. It really doesn't get any bigger than that.

[AudiA4_20T]

Motor Mounts: 8E0199351M & 8E0199352N
Transmission Spacer Plate: 01E103551C
Speed Sensor: 012409191D
3.0 Fuel Return Line: 8E0 121 109 A
3.0 Coolant Line: 8E0 201 215 C
Radiator: 8E0121251C
AC Lines:L/U 8E0260707AB 8E0260701AS
AC Condensor: 8E0260403B
Power Steering Line: 8D1422893BF

Shouldn't need a different condensor or compressor.... Lines for sure though. Seems like 1.8T won't fit, but 3.0 will


i know you can figure it out with your Bentley ( the picture of the dry erase board covered in schematics in your build thread was amazing ) but if i can help Im willing to follow the main plug to see where every wire goes exactly... how important is the secondary water pump? sounds kinda useful... hahaha.

This can be debated a bunch of ways, some people say no but Audi put it there for a reason. I'm glad you liked the white board drawings, keep in mind that's for the power wiring to the harness. Matching wires is the first step, routing the power is the second part that seems confusing to people. I do have it figured out in the bentley, I just need that full harness which I don't have.


If you have a 1.8 tip, the auto subframe uses the same trans mounting points as the 01E/01A. If you swap to B5/C5 trans mounts and 1.8t subframe gusset plates and get rid of the B6 wishbone trans mount, just about any downpipe set will fit. I have 034 770 downpipes, they fit perfectly and they are based off of their K flange 3" downpipes. It really doesn't get any bigger than that.

Truth. How do the shrouds fit with the B6 bumper?

[nefkntym]

Truth. How do the shrouds fit with the B6 bumper?

I will find out tonight. I welded the slam panel intercooler bracket thing back together last night so I can have a place to mount the snub and to eliminate any bumper/lock carrier sag.

[quickspeed]

Shouldn't need a different condensor or compressor.... Lines for sure though. Seems like 1.8T won't fit, but 3.0 will
Do the 1.8, 3.0 and 4.2 have the same condensor? I got mine as a package deal for the whole front so I may just sell off the extra one.
Im also hoping that the B5 FMIC will fit snug behind the bumper, If not I will be ditching the S4 one for a USP that I can trim to fit.

[B_EEZY]

Truth. How do the shrouds fit with the B6 bumper?

I couldn't use my AWE shrouds with the s4 bumper. They would have needed to be seriously hacked up to fit. I'm looking for some factory ones to mutilate.

[AudiA4_20T]

Do the 1.8, 3.0 and 4.2 have the same condensor? I got mine as a package deal for the whole front so I may just sell off the extra one.
Im also hoping that the B5 FMIC will fit snug behind the bumper, If not I will be ditching the S4 one for a USP that I can trim to fit.

yes same condensor AFAIK

[quattroloco]

I just need that full harness which I don't have.

What if you knew the gauge and length of each wire... replicate the harness without all the plugs for cheap. I could measure the basic legnth of each tail and the wires it includes... could you hook it up reletavely factory so it works? normal, without a manual switch off the thermoswitch. It really sucks they cut the harness but I bet I could replicate mine and you would have to connect to the module and add conectors which im sure i could rob some similar ones off the A6 that you could pin or whatever

[quickspeed]

Would something like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3647/?rtype=10
Be worth checking out at all?

[nein-reis]

Let me know when you find the fix, my fans do not work from my motor swap either.

[AudiA4_20T]

Let me know when you find the fix, my fans do not work from my motor swap either.

Yea that should be an easy fix man. Just need to dig into the diagrams

[B_EEZY]

Would something like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-3647/?rtype=10
Be worth checking out at all?

I'm running a similar kit, it works well.

[quickspeed]

Are any of you running widebands? Im thinking of wiring up a Zeitronix ZT2 while the harness is out.

[AudiA4_20T]

Are any of you running widebands? Im thinking of wiring up a Zeitronix ZT2 while the harness is out.

Why? 2.7T is such a canned tune. They just work

[quickspeed]

Why? 2.7T is such a canned tune. They just work
Have it from a previous project I abandoned. Plus I like screens and buttons I can click.

[AudiA4_20T]

Have it from a previous project I abandoned. Plus I like screens and buttons I can click.

Spillner?

http://i26.tinypic.com/fymio7.jpg

[dougyfresh]

I couldn't use my AWE shrouds with the s4 bumper. They would have needed to be seriously hacked up to fit. I'm looking for some factory ones to mutilate.

The B6 S4 and B6 A4 USP bumpers have about the same room behind them.

Axial distance from the A/C condensor to the bumper is the same on all B6 bumpers.

Radial distance (top to bottom) is different on aftermarke bumpers but all OEM (S4/USP/etc..) are the same.

A 3inch thick core fits the B6 with no modifications to the bumper cover itself. Just have to modify the re-bar or replace it. Anything thicker and you are cutting the bumper up significantly.

[swededA4]

Here's a craigslist find for those ready to do a swap. http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/pts/3102731796.html

[Wet0willy01]

I couldn't use my AWE shrouds with the s4 bumper. They would have needed to be seriously hacked up to fit. I'm looking for some factory ones to mutilate.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/427305-Project-Stormtrooper-03-Avant-24V-VR6T-gt-2-7TT?p=7723488&viewfull=1#post7723488

[quickspeed]

I have a B6 S4 MAF laying around and realized it was 85mm. Im going to figure out a way to use it. I still havent received my motor and am not sure if it came with Bosch or Hitachi.

[AudiA4_20T]

I have a B6 S4 MAF laying around and realized it was 85mm. Im going to figure out a way to use it. I still havent received my motor and am not sure if it came with Bosch or Hitachi.

Either way if you're doing bigger turbos you'll need to do the conversion to Hitachi. You have no idea what year the motor is?

[quickspeed]

95% sure it is hitachi now. I had another motor lined up that fell through with less miles which was from an 00, but the one I ended up with is from 01.5.

[nefkntym]

01.5 is hitachi. I would just stick with the hitachi maf, that is more than enough and the ecu is be expecting that anyway. A bigger maf will need a custom tune. If you going with bigger turbos, most of those tunes have you pull the hitachi maf element out of the housing and put that into a bigger housing of known size like 034's.

[quickspeed]

01.5 is hitachi. I would just stick with the hitachi maf, that is more than enough and the ecu is be expecting that anyway. A bigger maf will need a custom tune. If you going with bigger turbos, most of those tunes have you pull the hitachi maf element out of the housing and put that into a bigger housing of known size like 034's.

My motor isnt coming with a MAF. The original plan was to put a Hitachi in the 034 bit, but since the B6 has an 85mm housing im going to adapt the Hitachi to it. The car is getting dyno tuned when it's done also to get all the bits right.

[AudiA4_20T]

My motor isnt coming with a MAF. The original plan was to put a Hitachi in the 034 bit, but since the B6 has an 85mm housing im going to adapt the Hitachi to it. The car is getting dyno tuned when it's done also to get all the bits right.

might be easier to buy the 034 unit and sell the B6 S4 MAF to a Maestro guy to break even.

[S4iowa]

Motor Mounts: 8E0199351M & 8E0199352N
Transmission Spacer Plate: 01E103551C
Speed Sensor: 012409191D
3.0 Fuel Return Line: 8E0 121 109 A
3.0 Coolant Line: 8E0 201 215 C
Radiator: 8E0121251C
AC Lines:L/U 8E0260707AB 8E0260701AS
AC Condensor: 8E0260403B
Power Steering Line: 8D1422893BF

Your 3.0 fuel return line part# comes back as a coolant overflow line....

#20

COOLING SYSTEM / COOLING / RADIATOR & COMPONENTS / Overflow hose
8E0121109A - Overflow hose 3.0 LITER

MSRP Core Online Price
$129.00 $0.00 $95.98

http://genuineaudiparts.com/schematics/1/1326080.gif

And it looks like you have the #'s for the coolant and fuel line swapped.... and the fuel line has an updated #

Part Number was superceded!
Quick Order
Old Part Number 8E0201215C
New Part Number 8E0201215AP

Part Name FUEL LINE
MSRP $238.00
Core $0.00
Online Price $177.07

[AudiA4_20T]

$177 is brutal. Not hugely expensive overall though

[S4iowa]

$177 is brutal. Not hugely expensive overall though

Trying to source one from a salvage yard and/or get it shipped can be a PITA. Going new might not be so bad.

[AudiA4_20T]

Trying to source one from a salvage yard and/or get it shipped can be a PITA. Going new might not be so bad.

for sure. I got lucky

[quickspeed]

Here's what ive paid so far for swap parts, not including motor upgrades.

$23 each Motor Mounts: 8E0199351M & 8E0199352N
$27 Transmission Spacer Plate: 01E103551C
$12 Speed Sensor: 012409191D
$20 3.0 Fuel Return Line: 8E0 121 109 A
$30 3.0 Coolant Line: 8E0 201 215 C
$100 Radiator: 8E0121251C
$50 AC Lines:L/U 8E0260707AB 8E0260701AS
$100 AC Condensor: 8E0260403B
$25 Power Steering Line: 8D1422893BF

[NW A4]

If anyone has a running 1.8t swap, I would love to talk to them. Trying to diagnose some problems. PM me please.

[quattroloco]

getting closer... this was monday. Pulled motor and trans out and got the 2.7 sitting on the stand. shes one dirty girl.
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/engine_out.jpg

[AudiA4_20T]

getting closer... this was monday. Pulled motor and trans out and got the 2.7 sitting on the stand. shes one dirty girl.
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/engine_out.jpg

ballin

[daihashi]

I really need to look into getting doing this conversion. Mostly because I'm starting a locost project (will likely take at least 1.5-2 years to complete, that's being optimistic) and would like to use the 1.8t currently in my car as the platform since it puts out pretty good power considering the size/weight of the engine; would make for a fun car.

[quattroloco]

i did some research at the parts store today and they printed out spec sheets for me on front axles for C5 A6, B5 S4, and B6 A4... other than overall compressed legnth they all share the inboard flange size, style and bolt pattern. so as far as the tranny part of my swap ill just need to by front axles for the B6 manual trans but with selling the other four axles i have should about pay for them.

[quickspeed]

My new motor gets in tomorrow, finally.
Then the harness and a tune and im ready to go.
I also have to sell this 4.2 engine. How much is this thing worth? Its got new cam adjusters and all.

[dougyfresh]

i did some research at the parts store today and they printed out spec sheets for me on front axles for C5 A6, B5 S4, and B6 A4... other than overall compressed legnth they all share the inboard flange size, style and bolt pattern. so as far as the tranny part of my swap ill just need to by front axles for the B6 manual trans but with selling the other four axles i have should about pay for them.

Really? I thought the B6 A4 front driveshaft flanges are different from the B5s (and C5s).

[quattroloco]

my set up may be different than what some guys are doing... at first i was told to find a b6 6mt to swap but i ended up with a c5 parts car and the axles (c5 mt, b6 mt) side by side have the same bolt pattern ect checked with a digital caliper is the same. everything from the abs ring, number of flanges, bolt size and legnth is the same. the only difference is the overall compressed legnth of the axle. By the way, fun fact... the B5 S4 passenger axle is the exact same axle and part number as a C5 A6 driver axle... now you know. lol.

as far as flanges goes the b6 have a cover on the inside joint that keeps the grease in but i have a feeling that can be popped off and bolt right up because the drive flange keeps that grease in... maybee i have to swap the front tranny flanges. so I think your right dougyfresh.

[AudiA4_20T]

They are certainly different as far as flanges go but if you're using the 01E I could see them working. Id much rather have the sealed B6 flanges tho

[quickspeed]

Got the engine yesterday.
It was a little dirtier and missing a few more things than I thought, Including injectors hanging out and coil packs missing.
Ordered 2.0t coil pack conversion and new 750cc Injectors.
Cleaned and painted some motor parts also. Just waiting on the last bits.
http://i.imgur.com/ZsMfNl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OvmMsl.jpg

[quattroloco]

lookin good!

[quattroloco]

clint Im almost ready for a harness... hows it coming?

[AudiA4_20T]

Going really well I have a new order of plugs and wires to check out. These are the final steps right now.

[widgget]

whats it gonna cost for the harness once it's all put together?

[quattroloco]

earlier suggested $500. well worth it if your not interested in sitting with the two bentleys for a few weeks diagraming what goes where... I have a feeling it will look and feel pretty factory too. I believe it will conect the four plugs under the ecu from the b5 engine harness to the plugs on the b6. clint can elaborate on that. also... will it matter if my APB engine came from a 2000 C5 A6 vs an S4? plug wise?

[AudiA4_20T]

earlier suggested $500. well worth it if your not interested in sitting with the two bentleys for a few weeks diagraming what goes where... I have a feeling it will look and feel pretty factory too. I believe it will conect the four plugs under the ecu from the b5 engine harness to the plugs on the b6. clint can elaborate on that. also... will it matter if my APB engine came from a 2000 C5 A6 vs an S4? plug wise?

Yes. Exactly. Will go between the 5 B5 plugs and 4 B6 plugs with the grommet needed and all relays for it. Going to work more on this tonight.

Anyways, I've been driving the car now for awhile and other than the damn rear left tire blowing out on me it's been a champ. The MAF went out because of the ghetto intake I have set up but the torque is just great. I realized I was in 6th going 40 the other day and gave it half throttle at 1500rpms, BOOM she took off effortlessly. I think my 1.8T would have shat itself trying to do that in 6th.

Did get the speed sensor in the mail and put it in, but still didn't get rid of the code and 5000rpm rev problem so I'll have to dig more into that.

[quattroloco]

Im ready when you are. I really wanted to go stage three before installing but i have no patience and will be spending enough on maintenace just to be happy putting it in my car. plus i kinda think it might be a good idea to just get it in and work any kinks out before i do turbos and add more variables to the swap. i already have a cust 2.5 catless exhaust and piggies so ill probley go stage 2 and save up for everything else next year.

[AudiA4_20T]

Im ready when you are. I really wanted to go stage three before installing but i have no patience and will be spending enough on maintenace just to be happy putting it in my car. plus i kinda think it might be a good idea to just get it in and work any kinks out before i do turbos and add more variables to the swap. i already have a cust 2.5 catless exhaust and piggies so ill probley go stage 2 and save up for everything else next year.

honestly the best way to do it

[quickspeed]

Well since my B6 is now gone,
If anyone is interested in doing the swap I can sell you a kit with everything that you would need.
From 3.0 fans/radiator/core to motor mounts, hoses and wiring.

PM me for more info.

[nefkntym]

Well since my B6 is now gone,
If anyone is interested in doing the swap I can sell you a kit with everything that you would need.
From 3.0 fans/radiator/core to motor mounts, hoses and wiring.

PM me for more info.

PM sent. What happened to your B6?

[ASAP617]

YOU ARE THE F$$KING MAN!!! i have a B6 3.0 and i need a new engine and this is exactly what i was looking for. MY FAV POST EVER!! Love to see how all the progression goes.



The B6 Chassis has always been lost. It has looked high and low for years for the proper motor,
but always felt like there was something missing. That gap has been filled with the B6 2.7T
motor swap, and this is EVERYTHING you need to know.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/audipowerharv/2-1.jpg

What is the 2.7T?

It's basically the V6 version of a 1.8T, with not 1 K03, but two (AWESOME).

What years was it made? In North America, it was made from 2000-2004 and here are the differences

2000: Bosch MAF, bolt down coils, no immob
2001: Hitachi MAF, bolt down coils, no immob
2002: Hitachi MAF, bolt down coils, no immob
2003 (A6): Hitachi MAF, push down coils, immob, SAI (which sucks)
2004 (A6): Hitachi MAF, push down coils, immob, SAI (which sucks)

So which one should I get?

Honestly, this is preference. The 03-04 do have the push down coils and better ECUs, but this involves getting the immob defeated and also the tuning support sucks, so you are better off getting a 2000-2002 A6/S4 harness&ECU and going from there. The A6 and S4 are identical in parts so no difference between which one you get. Also, you can run any 00-02 ECU with any 00-02 harness. I would recommend getting a manual harness but it's not the biggest deal if you can't.

Is it easier to get the whole car or just the motor?

- Honestly you need nothing else from the car so I would look for a COMPLETE motor. You'll end up paying a LOT of money if you don't get something that's complete.

How much should I pay for the motor?

- This has a million factors at play, but a normal 2.7T goes for between $1200-2000. I paid $1200 but then had to get an ECU/fan module/etc.

What do I sacrifice with a swap like this?

- Absolutely nothing if you don't want to. All my gauges work, no CELs (due to the swap), and it drives like it was meant to be there. Cruise control is optional, and I haven't done it, but it can be done.

What do I need from said A6/S4 for all platforms? (parts by platform will be split up later)

- Entire Motor (EVERYTHING).
- Harness/ECU from the 2.7T
- A6/S4 power steering line
- A6/S4 SMIC brackets (if you don't want to run a FMIC)
- Snub mount bracket (one that attaches to the motor)
- Fan Control Module/Harness (unless you want to go some custom route)
- Alternator/Starter wire from the battery down the passenger frame rail
- Some kind of downpipes that fit. I've heard SSAC do, stock downpipes DO NOT

Which car should I start with?

This is also a tough question because it's preference. The easiest one BY FAR is the 3.0 because of the engine mounting, fuel system, radiator. The 3.0 block is basically just an aluminum 2.7T so it makes things easy. Some may prefer the 1.8T because you can get them cheap nowadays and some may prefer the S4 for the seats/brakes/bumpers/obviousthings/etc

Will I pass emissions?

While emissions varies state to state and technically putting an older motor in a newer car is not allowed, the car itself by this time thinks it has a 2.7T. VAG-COM reads 2.7T on it, you can clear codes, check them, log, check emissions, etc. So, when they hook the scanner up, as long as you have everything hooked up on the 2.7T to pass emissions, it will. This is awesome news because I know it can be a huge pain in some states

Now onto the swap....

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How does the motor mount up to the engine mounts?

1.8T: Drops right onto the mounting brackets
3.0: Drops right onto the mounting brackets
4.2: requires 1.8T/3.0 mounting brackets

How does the motor mount up to the trans?

1.8T: Needs B5 S4 trans plate (not verified)
3.0: Needs B5 S4 trans plate (this is a 2.7T trans)
4.2: Needs B5 S4 trans plate

What transmissions can I use?

- B5 A4 1.8T Quattro/FWD
- B5 A4 2.8 Quattro/FWD
- B5/A6 2.7T (preferred but needs other parts to install)
- B6 A4 1.8T Quattro/FWD
- B6 A4 3.0 (preferred)
- B6 S4 4.2 (preferred)

What clutch do I use?

- B5 S4 clutch/FW

How does the power steering hook up?

- Use an S4/A6 power steering line

Vehicle Speed Sensor (for speedo)

- This has come up before and people seem a bit confused about it. Basically, Audi made the early B6s (2002s) with a vehicle speed sensor in the trans, just like the B5. So, if you have a 2002, just plug it in! For 2003+, the speedo comes from the wheel speed sensor. This is great because nothing has to be done to have a speedo, but the 2.7T will cut the rev limiter to 5000rpm if there is not one plugged in. So, you just need to get a B5 speed sensor (which comes on any manual 1.8T/2.8 A4/passat manual trans from 96/02) and plug it in.

*NOTE* This might not work, and I have Josh@Jfonz tuning writing out this code since it is not useful on a 2003+ car

Reverse Lights:

1.8T: Plug connector in
3.0: Plug connector in
4.2: Need to wire connector in

Intake

- Has to be custom but honestly not too hard to do. Some people (like myself) just throw a cone filter on and call it a day. Some silicone and a few aluminum pipes could make you something nice.

Exhaust

- The cheapest way to get it running would be SSAC downpipes, mated to a stock S4 catback (which has decent sized piping for stock and can be found from Free.3-$200). Keep in mind this will require some custom welding, but shouldn't cost much.

A/C

1.8T: A/C lines bolt right up (not verified)
3.0: A/C lines bolt right up (not verified)
4.2: Need A/C lines from 1.8T/3.0

Snub Mount

1.8T: Need to get something welded or get 3.0 core support/fans
3.0: Bolts right up like factory
4.2: Need to get something welded

Fueling

1.8T: Need to get 3.0 return line or rig one up. Use 3.0 filter
3.0: Bolts right up like factory
4.2: Need to get 3.0 return line or rig one up. Use 3.0 filter

Radiator

1.8T: Need a 3.0/2.7T radiator
3.0: Bolts right up (need to cap off small port)
4.2: Need 3.0/2.7T radiator/grind some of the core support

SMICs

- Need 2.7T brackets with some drilling/tapping. Could also run Ebay FMIC

Heater Core

- 2.7T hoses fit perfect

Fans

- Ok so this is another thing that can really go a bunch of ways. The 2.7T ECU knows nothing of the fans in the S4/A6, because the 2.7T fan circuit is literally a different harness and module altogether. The B6 chassis use the ECU to control the fans so this becomes a problem. So, you could get the B5 S4 fan module and wire that in, or if you wanted to save a few bucks you could get a universal fan switch and hook that up to the B6 module to trigger the fans. The 2.7T module would be easier in general though.

Wiring

- So everyone is freaking out about this wiring and it's not easy. Will I help you? Sure. Will I hold your hand and tell you where each wire goes? No. Maybe if this was 6 years ago and I had all the free time in the world, but I just plain don't have time anymore. I will be making plug and play harnesses based on chassis year, engine that came in that chassis, and year of the 2.7T. PM me for more information if you want to go that route.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please let me know if I've forgotten anything or if you have extra questions and I will add them to the DIY thread

Thanks,
Clint

[AudiA4_20T]

YOU ARE THE F$$KING MAN!!! i have a B6 3.0 and i need a new engine and this is exactly what i was looking for. MY FAV POST EVER!! Love to see how all the progression goes.

NP dude, hit up Quickspeed (see below) and let me know when you need a harness


Well since my B6 is now gone,
If anyone is interested in doing the swap I can sell you a kit with everything that you would need.
From 3.0 fans/radiator/core to motor mounts, hoses and wiring.

PM me for more info.

[quattroloco]

i like his enthusiasm.

[bigcanuck]

Just picked up a complete 2.7 from 01 a6. Let's see how this goes

[ASAP617]

I'm reading your thread right now on your build..You my hero too dude..

If you two guys don't mind me racking your brains when i get down to doing mine i'd greatly appreciate it.


i like his enthusiasm.

[quattroloco]

what car do you have (M, Y, engine?)

[An86suvivr]

This post is great, I knew these swaps were being done but this gave me a new out look on it. My quagmire is that I have a mk2 3.0 vr that I really love driving, and have had the car for six years. I also love driving my stage 2 00' S4 I have had for for eight years. My daily is mk4 2.0 jetta wagon I kinda like the wagon its cool. I plan on dumping the wagon and getting a newer one, the B6 wagon is appealing to me mainly cause its bigger and quattro helps with ny winters (plus I do like the look of the B6, not sure more then the b5 though). I can buy a 3.0 a4 wagon and basically have everything I need for the sawp, but the thought of basically junking my B5 s4 body is hard to swallow. For another daily im looking at mk1 tt's.

[bigcanuck]

Let me know what you guys are paying for the parts when you locate them for the swap if you don't mind. I can't tell what are reasonable prices for the used parts. The only thing I plan on buying new for swap is a stage 2 rs4 clutch as lightweight flywheel.

[quattroloco]

Let me know what you guys are paying for the parts when you locate them for the swap if you don't mind. I can't tell what are reasonable prices for the used parts. The only thing I plan on buying new for swap is a stage 2 rs4 clutch as lightweight flywheel.

look at the first post first page... clint goes into pricing a little. since mostly all you need is the motor with the harness and ecu if your starting with a 3.0 you will be in the $1500-$2000 range with his harness adapter... of couse you can go stage three at the same time and spend 10k... its all up to you, your wallet and your ability to controll the obsession... lol.

[bigcanuck]

No I read that post and all subsequent posts quite well. I got a great deal on motor, ecu and sensors but i Idon't want to buy the rad assembly and such new from the dealership. But I don't know what's fair for these parts. This is why I was curious what you guys are paying.

I will eventually go stage 3, the used k04 setup in the classifieds right now has me thinking. But I will get it in and running properly before I go upgrading. Too tough to diagnose a problem if upgrade on the stand before install.

The only part I want new is this rs4 clutch and flywheel and motor mounts
http://www.awe-tuning.com/products/audi-1/a6-rs6/c5/2-7t/awe-clutchkit.html

http://www.ringer-racing.com/category.sc?categoryId=18

[AudiA4_20T]

No I read that post and all subsequent posts quite well. I got a great deal on motor, ecu and sensors but i Idon't want to buy the rad assembly and such new from the dealership. But I don't know what's fair for these parts. This is why I was curious what you guys are paying.

I will eventually go stage 3, the used k04 setup in the classifieds right now has me thinking. But I will get it in and running properly before I go upgrading. Too tough to diagnose a problem if upgrade on the stand before install.

The only part I want new is this rs4 clutch and flywheel and motor mounts
http://www.awe-tuning.com/products/audi-1/a6-rs6/c5/2-7t/awe-clutchkit.html

http://www.ringer-racing.com/category.sc?categoryId=18

Got a new rad for like $120.... get the fuel lines used. Anyways, don't get an RS4 clutch if you're going to do K04s down the road, it can't handle that power

I'm also not a fan of the Ringer Racing Garage but that's just me.

[quattroloco]

Well since my B6 is now gone,
If anyone is interested in doing the swap I can sell you a kit with everything that you would need.
From 3.0 fans/radiator/core to motor mounts, hoses and wiring.

PM me for more info.

this guy might have some stuff too

[bigcanuck]

I pm'd and emailed with no response. I'm not in a rush, probably swap in November before my shop gets too cold but well after rugby season.

Thanks for the help

[quattroloco]

i have a complete c5 a6 with the 2.7 and if the radiator or any stuff like fuel lines, condensor ect will work I can give you a package deal and the stuff wont get destroyed during removal like alot of salvage yards. pm me if your interested. i know for some stuff c5 = b5 so it should work. i have the rad support too.

im starting with a 3.0 b6 so i dont need any of that stuff : )

[quattroloco]

don't get an RS4 clutch if you're going to do K04s down the road, it can't handle that power.

arent K04's from the RS4? i assumed it would hold as well... good to know. what do you think of JHM's kit that adapts the b7? rs4? pressure plate? its supposed to stand up to a bit of thrashing with a nice DD pedal feel.

[AudiA4_20T]

arent K04's from the RS4? i assumed it would hold as well... good to know. what do you think of JHM's kit that adapts the b7? rs4? pressure plate? its supposed to stand up to a bit of thrashing with a nice DD pedal feel.

yes but they don't hold well. The B7 RS4 one might be good idk. I would just do stock FW/Southbend Stg4

[nefkntym]

Just posted in B5 section...

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/498998-Anybody-know-Quickspeed-from-Denver?p=7872164#post7872164

[Wet0willy01]

gulp....I've been in that situation before. Not fun.

[AudiA4_20T]

He's a good dude, I actually have some of his money. I'm sure he'll get back to the guy soon

[bigcanuck]

Ok I guess then the rs4 clutch that just went up for sale in the classifieds would be a bad move. Ok I'm looking into the Vast stage 3. I need a flywheel and am looking at the LW stuff. Any thoughts? I don't know if it will really allow that much quicker revs on a 6 cylinder. Its a difference of about $400 to go LW versus resurfaced stock.

[quattroloco]

well vast just went bankrupt soooo theres that... check out the JHM kit here

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/jhm-lightweight-flywheel-and-clutch-combo-b7-rs4-pressure-plate-for-27t-p-822.html?cPath=21_56_60_102_28&osCsid=hd2cnba36qdc2rqvdqejavtuo2

[daihashi]

well vast just went bankrupt soooo theres that... check out the JHM kit here

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/jhm-lightweight-flywheel-and-clutch-combo-b7-rs4-pressure-plate-for-27t-p-822.html?cPath=21_56_60_102_28&osCsid=hd2cnba36qdc2rqvdqejavtuo2

Yikes, I just checked Vast's page. Tough break.

[quattroloco]

well ive been hearing some wierd stuff goin on lately so wasnt supprised... sometimes growing too big too fast can hurt a company if they lose control of cost vs profit and all the inventory costs involved.

[daihashi]

well ive been hearing some wierd stuff goin on lately so wasnt supprised... sometimes growing too big too fast can hurt a company if they lose control of cost vs profit and all the inventory costs involved.

Yep, it's a big reason why so many companies use drop ship or why there's a wait on certain parts. It doesn't make sense to tie up all your money in inventory or other overhead when there's no guarantee it will sell; especially with the way things constantly evolve.

Oh well, was good while it lasted. ;)

[quattroloco]

thats what she sai... oh nevermind.

[bigcanuck]

Haha TWSS,

I can find new old stock for Vast on classifieds but I'm seeing Southbound is a bit cheaper and still has a warranty department to fall back on. And that link doesn't work unless you give us your password and username for JHM. While you're at it your credit card info would be great for the clutch.

Still thoughts of light weight versus oem flywheels? Cost vs gains

[quattroloco]

id ont know why thier website does that even when other people post links there... its not like i logged in to the site when i searched. on the jhmotorsports site its under audi>B5>drivetrain>flywheel. its a custom lwfw that adapts a B7 RS4 pressure plate $950 for everything. ive never tried it though. seems lots of guys like the southbend but the pedal can have some chatter, on/off switch feel.

[RKLamb]

I hope Vast send my parts before they shut the doors. lol. I just ordered some stuff last week.

[quattroloco]

[eek] uuuuh

[b518]

sick, attempting now. b6 chassis+single turbo 2.7t= baddass!

[AudiA4_20T]

sick, attempting now. b6 chassis+single turbo 2.7t= baddass!

You are?

[b518]

Those are the plans, gotta pick up another B6. And get rid of this b5.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

[NW A4]

Has anyone built their 2.7 yet?

Planning my 605 build and need to know if ER SMIC would fit in a USP bumper or if I will have to a custom FMIC

[nefkntym]

Has anyone built their 2.7 yet?

Planning my 605 build and need to know if ER SMIC would fit in a USP bumper or if I will have to a custom FMIC

ERs

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FK0zAUsg1Og/UB8_TH13K-I/AAAAAAAABo0/5KNraAFarmI/s800/CIMG3680.JPG

USP Bumper

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O_hZxyo8-5I/UCdEGpTsr6I/AAAAAAAABsQ/nQ06p1Beklg/s800/CIMG3694.JPG

[bigcanuck]

I was just reading project storm trooper build when I saw your pics....

Ok so I want to do this swap in a weekend and don't know if that is overly ambitious. My a4 is my daily driver, though I do have a gas guzzling f250 and 455ci trans am as backups. I am confident in Clint's wiring adapter will take care of the electrical side but was wondering if anyone else has braved this? It seems as the motor mount swaps is the closest thing to fabricating I will need to do other than fmic piping.

I will say I have a large detached shop with picker, welder and full box but no hoist...

What about the ecu working in my car? I have the ecu and motor from a 01 a6. Will it even fire and drive without me towing it in for a reprogram? I can handle running open downpipes to the muffler shop Monday morning.

[AudiA4_20T]

I was just reading project storm trooper build when I saw your pics....

Ok so I want to do this swap in a weekend and don't know if that is overly ambitious. My a4 is my daily driver, though I do have a gas guzzling f250 and 455ci trans am as backups. I am confident in Clint's wiring adapter will take care of the electrical side but was wondering if anyone else has braved this? It seems as the motor mount swaps is the closest thing to fabricating I will need to do other than fmic piping.

I will say I have a large detached shop with picker, welder and full box but no hoist...

What about the ecu working in my car? I have the ecu and motor from a 01 a6. Will it even fire and drive without me towing it in for a reprogram? I can handle running open downpipes to the muffler shop Monday morning.

My harnesses are not 100%, dealer lost a part I ordered. Plugs are done, just need to finish up relays and pins. For $500, they are a good deal, the parts alone cost double what I thought. Your ECU will work fine as long as it's not an immob one. I think that started in 02 though.

[NW A4]

ERs

IMG

USP Bumper

IMG

Sickkkk, even with fogs! Are your running the smic bracket or just letting them hang?

[nefkntym]

Sickkkk, even with fogs! Are your running the smic bracket or just letting them hang?

No you delete the IC bracket, you do that even with the S4 install. There is a separate bracket that you use instead.

[bigcanuck]

So anyone have faith in the weekend swap?

[20vturbo]

what do you mean by b5 s4 transmission plate??? pictures... Tx

[NW A4]

No you delete the IC bracket, you do that even with the S4 install. There is a separate bracket that you use instead.

I am talking about your current SMIC's, are they on a b5 s4 or a6 bracket? or just hanging by the hoses? Just gauging if they will be able to fit on the brackets

(btw, i have completed the swap with smic and the b5 brackets)

[NW A4]

what do you mean by b5 s4 transmission plate??? pictures... Tx
There is a plate between the transmission and the 2.7t on the b5 s4.

its about 15mm thick

[NW A4]

So anyone have faith in the weekend swap?

Easily doable, IF AND ONLY IF, your harness is done and you are a fairly good garage mechanic. If you have a 3.0, then yes, I think its possible. Get ready to hit surprises all over. I could have had mine done in under 2 weeks, however my wiring gave me issues.

[bigcanuck]

what do you mean by b5 s4 transmission plate??? pictures... Tx

I just located mine tonight. It's like a bell housing adapter if you're a muscle car guy. Email me for pic as I don't know how to upload

[bigcanuck]

I used to be a vw/Audi dealer tech so I guess that qualifies. I'm starting with a 1.8 chassis so motor mounts become an issue

[NW A4]

I used to be a vw/Audi dealer tech so I guess that qualifies. I'm starting with a 1.8 chassis so motor mounts become an issue
You should be fine. If you are starting with the 1.8, there are a few flaws in the write-up fyi. Motor mounts are the exact same between the two.

[bigcanuck]

You should be fine. If you are starting with the 1.8, there are a few flaws in the write-up fyi. Motor mounts are the exact same between the two.

So I don't need new mounts? I mean I'll upgrade but I don't have to fabricate?

That was many years ago now and I'm now a sell out government worker. I screw around now but mostly big block stuff that only goes straight well and tough to fk up

[Satummoo]

I wish I knew how to do this and had the funds, 2 years from now i'm sure we'll see a lot of swaps going!

[AudiA4_20T]

You should be fine. If you are starting with the 1.8, there are a few flaws in the write-up fyi. Motor mounts are the exact same between the two.

Tell me the flaws....

[NW A4]

Tell me the flaws....

Clint, I told you already over text! Unless you already changed it.. Haha

This is Riley, 360 number.

[AudiA4_20T]

Clint, I told you already over text! Unless you already changed it.. Haha

This is Riley, 360 number.

dammit.

[quattroloco]

so i figured i should show some of my progress here to help motivate some of you

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p482/ariangoodson/DSC07983.jpg

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p482/ariangoodson/DSC07982.jpg

[quattroloco]

im still waiting on a 034 tbb and the correct t-bolt clamps. inside is a Gates blue racing timing belt and all new OEM wp, tstat, tensioners and seals. i have piggie pipes to go on with a true dual catless 2.5" exhaust. stage 2? ill need good DV's and a Hitachi MAF.

[Das22]

I wonder if the soon to be released 034 Single turbo kit will fit in a B6 swap?

[quattroloco]

i dont see why not... the engine compartment is zactly the same far as i can tell

[AudiA4_20T]

im still waiting on a 034 tbb and the correct t-bolt clamps. inside is a Gates blue racing timing belt and all new OEM wp, tstat, tensioners and seals. i have piggie pipes to go on with a true dual catless 2.5" exhaust. stage 2? ill need good DV's and a Hitachi MAF.

What exhaust? B6 S4 one?

Also, yes the 034 kit will fit

[quattroloco]

the exhaust is from the donor car, it is a custom job with 2.5" and strait from the cats (ill be deleting) to a 2in 2out magnaflow and then two tail sections that go to either side of the bumper. ill post a pic of it. very straight with only two bends each side, i may need to modify for the B6 but shouldnt be too bad. I may add a resinator where the cats were depending on the sound. i plan on adding flanges to the DP's for a "test pipe" to replace the main cats, that way when I goto the track I can swap the test pipe for a open dump off the DP's that exits behind the front tires. more flow and noise what do you think? ill see if EPL can do a mode for the open dump if it helps or do you think it wont matter as far as tune?

[allen123]

I was looking into the 3.0 core support here in Norway.
It seems like it's made of plastic; is that correct / a problem?

[quattroloco]

its more like a fiberglass material and its tough as hell... shouldnt be an issue.

[Charles.waite]

Holy balls I thought the 1.8t was bad with the spiderweb of vacuum lines and random shit. Jesus...

[jai5]

Clint, I told you already over text! Unless you already changed it.. Haha

This is Riley, 360 number.
Sharing is caring!

So tell us...

[quattroloco]

im pulling my motor moday and starting the swap but it includes a tip-6mt swap with it and im wondering about the gauge cluster coding... do i have to code the b6 cluster if im using a b5 ecu and if so do i have to do it before i do the swap?

[nefkntym]

im pulling my motor moday and starting the swap but it includes a tip-6mt swap with it and im wondering about the gauge cluster coding... do i have to code the b6 cluster if im using a b5 ecu and if so do i have to do it before i do the swap?

Do it before the swap and before you pull the ecu and the tip box. If you pull the tip box you will get a not found error code and you can't recode anything with error codes.

[quattroloco]

thats what i thought i remembered something about having to do it before... will it be totally confused if i code it to manual and then drive it home or do i have to do it here and then not use the auto again... its the only part im worried about of the whole swap. did you recode your ecu or did you put a b5 ecu in?

[RKLamb]

One more piece then I start dropping my engine in as well. Still trying to find those AC lines and need to do something about that snub mount.

[nefkntym]

One more piece then I start dropping my engine in as well. Still trying to find those AC lines and need to do something about that snub mount.

I just did the snub mount again, this time with a 3.0L carrier if it helps. Still needs to be cleaned up, but you get the idea.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/427305-Project-Stormtrooper-03-Avant-24V-VR6T-gt-2-7TT?p=7928480&viewfull=1#post7928480

[quattroloco]

i think the snub mount off my 3.0 will bolt to the 2.7 and stuff right into that sweet little hole in my 3.0 core support. what do you think?

[B6A4Dave]

maybe its just me but this thread didnt tell me a damn thing with regards to swapping...........

[daihashi]

Probably because it's almost plug and play.. especially if you have a parts car.

Sent while taking an "on the clock dump" using Tapatalk 2.

[quattroloco]

ok, lets start. if everyone would grab thier 10 mm socket and ratchet we will begin with step one...

[nefkntym]

maybe its just me but this thread didnt tell me a damn thing with regards to swapping...........

Lots of info here. If you want specifics, look at Clint's build thread and/or my build thread. There is info in AfourQ's thread as well.

[gottaBdope]

http://www.dreamstime.com/reaching-out-hand-thumb11058356.jpg

ok, lets start. if everyone would grab thier 10 mm socket and ratchet we will begin with step one...

[gpoole30]

hate to thread jack... but i can get a 2005.5 b7 S4 with an engine issue. could i swap in the 2.7 from 2002 S4, the motor has 49k on and comes with turbos and all harnesses...for 3K. Is this worth a shot?

[IVRINGS]

If the price is just the engine, turboes, and harness then that is high. I got that for 1700 shipped.

[sandspeed]

ok, lets start. if everyone would grab thier 10 mm socket and ratchet we will begin with step one...

Go on...

[Audi 4 Life]

Can someone please clarify the exhaust setup? it says in OP's post that SSAC's downpipes work, has this been confirmed? And are there any other options other than those?
And also it says to use S4 stock exhaust, is this the B5 or B6 catback I'm confused because the motor we are swapping on the B5 S4 uses a single catback, and the B6 body uses dual, so which is it?

[AudiA4_20T]

maybe its just me but this thread didnt tell me a damn thing with regards to swapping...........

Dave, no offense, but if you didn't get anything from this thread maybe this swap isn't for you

[AudiA4_20T]

hate to thread jack... but i can get a 2005.5 b7 S4 with an engine issue. could i swap in the 2.7 from 2002 S4, the motor has 49k on and comes with turbos and all harnesses...for 3K. Is this worth a shot?

Yes. Curious how much you can get the car for

[widgget]

http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p482/ariangoodson/DSC07982.jpg

http://cdn.ebaumsworld.com/mediaFiles/picture/2162053/82754347.gif

[quattroloco]

is that "man on a buffalo?" lol.

[AudiA4_20T]

http://cdn.ebaumsworld.com/mediaFiles/picture/2162053/82754347.gif

dying, never seen this one yet lol

[Audi 4 Life]

Can someone please clarify the exhaust setup? it says in OP's post that SSAC's downpipes work, has this been confirmed? And are there any other options other than those?
And also it says to use S4 stock exhaust, is this the B5 or B6 catback I'm confused because the motor we are swapping on the B5 S4 uses a single catback, and the B6 body uses dual, so which is it?

bump

[AudiA4_20T]

If you use the stock B6 mount- NO downpipes fit.

If you use the B5 mounts with the correct subframe- ALL downpipes fit

You would use a B6 catback, not a B5 one

[widgget]

is that "man on a buffalo?" lol.

you sir win a cookie!

[quattroloco]

I feel so proud to have earned his respect! Lol!

[Ori0n]

What kind of mileage do you guys get with the swap on a quattro car?

I shouldn't have to ask haha, but I'm very curious!

[AudiA4_20T]

20mpg with a bad MAF (running very rich)

[quattroloco]

I just drove my car for the last time with a 3.0... the swap begins... [o_o]

[RKLamb]

Man I wished I had a 3.0 I finally got all my parts except the AC line. So tomorrow Im starting the process of putting it in.

[quattroloco]

I started today! first one to fire up is owed one frosty beer.

[S4iowa]

If you use the stock B6 mount- NO downpipes fit.

If you use the B5 mounts with the correct subframe- ALL downpipes fit

You would use a B6 catback, not a B5 one

Can you define what you mean by "correct subframe"?

[AudiA4_20T]

Can you define what you mean by "correct subframe"?

manual subframes don't have those half circle pieces welded in there that the 01E uses. Only the automatic ones have them I think

[quattroloco]

my auto subframe has them.

[daihashi]

manual subframes don't have those half circle pieces welded in there that the 01E uses. Only the automatic ones have them I think

So the auto subframe is the "correct" sub frame?

Coincidentally I'm an Auto.... and coincidentally I am also running B5 S4 motor mounts already. Unfortunately thought things have come up and getting a parts car for the swap will have to be put off until 2013 :(.

[dougyfresh]

manual subframes don't have those half circle pieces welded in there that the 01E uses. Only the automatic ones have them I think

I think early B6 chassis came with them regardless.

My 2002 was manual from the factory and had them before we cut 'em off to fit my downpipe.


Most ideal trans mount is the B6 crossmember and was used in the 01E for the 2002-2003 B6 3.0L 6spd.

[AudiA4_20T]

So the auto subframe is the "correct" sub frame?

Coincidentally I'm an Auto.... and coincidentally I am also running B5 S4 motor mounts already. Unfortunately thought things have come up and getting a parts car for the swap will have to be put off until 2013 :(.

This is about transmission mounts not engine mounts


I think early B6 chassis came with them regardless.

My 2002 was manual from the factory and had them before we cut 'em off to fit my downpipe.


Most ideal trans mount is the B6 crossmember and was used in the 01E for the 2002-2003 B6 3.0L 6spd.

They were asking which ones were best to fit B5 downpipes with no modding. In that case, b5 ones are best.

[RKLamb]

I started today! first one to fire up is owed one frosty beer.

Hell I might as well go ahead buy you that beer. Lol

[quattroloco]

dont count yourself out yet... nothing fits... not on the engine side, on the trans part. see this swap isnt difficult enough so im trying to pull off a 6mt swap at the same time.
today i ordered the correct driveline, trans axle flange stubs, manual cv axles and now i need to find a b6 clutch pedal. fml.

[nefkntym]

Hell I might as well go ahead buy you that beer. Lol

I started driving mine a few days ago.

[quattroloco]

lol... no fair, you started like a year ago!

edit... 9 months ago

[sandspeed]

If you need a manual pedal assembly, give JHM a shout. They have my old 3.0 A4 and it was stripped for parts.

[quattroloco]

Oh thanks for the heads up but I got it.

[quattroloco]

heads up... You can attach the B5/C5 power steering line from the engine to the B6 Steering rack line with a "socket to socket" addapter. Ill post a pic tomorrow. less than $20 and easy if your feelin lazy...

[nefkntym]

I just bolted them both on with the B6 hardware.

[ASAP617]

LOL!! the GIF is priceless


http://cdn.ebaumsworld.com/mediaFiles/picture/2162053/82754347.gif

[black2.7t]

So, I have a good chance to pickup a 2000 s4 tip, that was rear ended for pretty cheap, what would have to be done about putting an auto 2.7t into a 2003 b6 a4 5speed? I heard the cranks look different on the ends???

[AudiA4_20T]

So, I have a good chance to pickup a 2000 s4 tip, that was rear ended for pretty cheap, what would have to be done about putting an auto 2.7t into a 2003 b6 a4 5speed? I heard the cranks look different on the ends???

You need SAI block off plates, ECU recode, pilot bearing for the engine. Maybe a manual harness would help. Otherwise just follow page 1

[black2.7t]

He wants 1500 for the whole car, id jump on that but again its tiptronic.. I might pick it up the whole egine for less han 400$ if I pull i myself, its very tempting lol just no sure about the whole pilot bearing thing you menioned


You need SAI block off plates, ECU recode, pilot bearing for the engine. Maybe a manual harness would help. Otherwise just follow page 1

[gottaBdope]

Quoted from walky_talky20:

"On the V6 engines (2.8, 2.7T) the pilot bearing is actually mounted in the flywheel directly, not in the end of the crank like the 1.8T and others. So you should have no problem, everything should bolt right up. I do not believe the crankshafts are different. There may be a spacer that will need transferred over with the drive plate, though."

Can't figure out how to do a proper quote from another thread using tapatalk.

Thread referenced: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/453761-2-7t-engine-replacement

Don't think the platform matters as far as the engines concerned. Correct me if I'm wrong v

[AudiA4_20T]

He wants 1500 for the whole car, id jump on that but again its tiptronic.. I might pick it up the whole egine for less han 400$ if I pull i myself, its very tempting lol just no sure about the whole pilot bearing thing you menioned

It's ridiculously easy

[widgget]

does the 2000 A6 use the same tiptronic trans as the B6 A4?
thinking i might stick with the tip for a few reasons:

1. swap would be cheaper and overall less work since i wont need a manual trans and all the rest that goes with it.
2. I just got this sweet S4 paddle shift wheel.
3. cost to built the tiptronic trans is going to be close to the price of a high end clutch for a manual which i would be doing if i did a manual swap.
4. my other A4 is a 5spd manual, it's nice to have an auto in case my wife or i can't drive a manual for some reason (broken arm, bad knee, ect).
5. having the tiptronic is nice for when i have to travel somewhere with traffic.

I saw a 2.7t with 110k on it, pulled off a tiptronic A6 with all the accessories for $600 a few weeks back, should have snagged it.
are there any foreseeable roadblocks to doing this (aside from all the tiptronic haters)?

[RKLamb]

So, I have a good chance to pickup a 2000 s4 tip, that was rear ended for pretty cheap, what would have to be done about putting an auto 2.7t into a 2003 b6 a4 5speed? I heard the cranks look different on the ends???

Mine came off of an 01 A6 TIP, So I got the SAI block off plates, Pull the spacer off of the crank and my lightweight flywheel bolted right up to it, Got manual harness, ecu from a manual S4, I deleted the 075 and the 249, So from what I been reading I should have no issues since my ecu is from a S4 and not A6

[quattroloco]

I don't have a turbo timer or anything so I've been staying out of boost before I get close to my destination... if I were to be boosting shortly before I arive, how long should a propper cool down be?

I showed the swap to jason at AMD today and he was impressed and said I did a nice clean job. That was quite a compliment from a man of his knowledge.

[gottaBdope]

All a turbo timer is gonna do is leave your car at idle for a predetermined amount of time (but I'm sure you know that). I think if you just sit at your destination for ~30sec at idle, you'd be fine as long as you were racing to where you are...and if you don't wanna sit, I'm sure you could find a decent used timer for ~$50. I sold both of mine for ~40 total... You'll find that most people get tired of the timer and end up taking it back out... Just my experience.

EDIT: Just reread and realized you came from a 3.0. I was wondering why this was a new delima, hah.

[RKLamb]

All a turbo timer is gonna do is leave your car at idle for a predetermined amount of time (but I'm sure you know that). I think if you just sit at your destination for ~30sec at idle, you'd be fine as long as you were racing to where you are...and if you don't wanna sit, I'm sure you could find a decent used timer for ~$50. I sold both of mine for ~40 total... You'll find that most people get tired of the timer and end up taking it back out... Just my experience.

EDIT: Just reread and realized you came from a 3.0. I was wondering why this was a new delima, hah.

I used too have a turbo timer on my 300ZX,. When I first installed it my car would run for 20-30 minutes lol. I changed out the radiator to a Koyo and upgraded my oil cooler and then it would cut off 1-5 minutes tops.

[RKLamb]

So I was wondering to those guys that are running already. Would you keep the 249 or go with a aftermarket boost controller. Some say it helps prevent boost spikes that could damage turbos, but I have seen a lot of people delete them off and claiming better performance.

[quattroloco]

My tuner was very proud that I kept all of audi's engineering... He said alot of guys delete this and change that and it does nothing.
But its up to you, its your car.

[RKLamb]

My tuner was very proud that I kept all of audi's engineering... He said alot of guys delete this and change that and it does nothing.
But its up to you, its your car.

I will reconnect the 249. No need to take it off if it does what it suppose too I guess. I wish I had a tuner in this hick town I live in if it's not a Chevy or a Ford you dont want them touching it lol.

[PKmode]

You should leave both the N75 and N249 valves in place. They work perfectly fine even on much higher boost applications. You should just go to the B5S4 section with technical questions on this motor as we've been doing it for over a decade. For reference, my B5S4 is using both (GT25s). In fact, almost all the new ME7.1 tunes are using them now (vs the old days when we by passed the N75 and used a MBC).

Also, Tip boys, if you are doing this swap, I'd highly recommend going to the 01E. The tips WILL FAIL if you guy stg3 Tq (unless you get a level10, or whoever's upgraded tip but that is also expensive) and let's be honest, why do this if you're not going to go stg3 (I'd suggest doing it from the get go)?

Happy motoring.

[RKLamb]

You should leave both the N75 and N249 valves in place. They work perfectly fine even on much higher boost applications. You should just go to the B5S4 section with technical questions on this motor as we've been doing it for over a decade. For reference, my B5S4 is using both (GT25s). In fact, almost all the new ME7.1 tunes are using them now (vs the old days when we by passed the N75 and used a MBC).

Also, Tip boys, if you are doing this swap, I'd highly recommend going to the 01E. The tips WILL FAIL if you guy stg3 Tq (unless you get a level10, or whoever's upgraded tip but that is also expensive) and let's be honest, why do this if you're not going to go stg3 (I'd suggest doing it from the get go)?

Happy motoring.

So if I did that SAI deletion you saying I should still keep the N75. Originally I just had it capped off where the SAI lines hooked up but all the write ups I found showed everyone taking all of that off. My engine is still out the car so if you suggest putting it back on I will. So I am assuming I should just cap off the part that went to the SAI lines and leave the rest alone.

[AudiA4_20T]

and let's be honest, why do this if you're not going to go stg3 (I'd suggest doing it from the get go)?

Sounds like you have $5k to throw around like it's nothing?

[AudiA4_20T]

So if I did that SAI deletion you saying I should still keep the N75. Originally I just had it capped off where the SAI lines hooked up but all the write ups I found showed everyone taking all of that off. My engine is still out the car so if you suggest putting it back on I will. So I am assuming I should just cap off the part that went to the SAI lines and leave the rest alone.

SAI and N75 are two completely different systems. That's like saying you should disconnect your toilet while you're putting a new roof in

[gottaBdope]

^ Or open the breaker switch to move your couch [>_<]

[RKLamb]

SAI and N75 are two completely different systems. That's like saying you should disconnect your toilet while you're putting a new roof in

Got it LOL I was trying to figure that out for a while because every writeup I found they all deleted both except one.

[PKmode]

Sounds like you have $5k to throw around like it's nothing?

Then don't do a swap you can't afford. I would think the point of doing this is to get Hp and Tq in a power band that would otherwise be unachievable with the 1.8T. You can get 300Hp with a turbo kit on the 1.8T easy. If staying stock K03s (which will pop when chipped for any length of time) you're not getting much more than a BT kit other than low end Tq. Also, labor isn't free and neither is my time. If/(when) the k03s turbos fail, you'll end up pulling it all back out. You can get OEM BW K04s for $2100 and stay with a cheap stg3- tune until you can save up. At least then it's just adding the fueling as the hard part of the job (turbo swap requires an engine pull) is already done.

Yes, it is going to be around $5K to do this right, the 1st time (engine, motor, stg3 kit) but it would be worth it. Also, now you could sell your stock parts and recoup some of the costs. Personally, I wouldn't go this route but it is a great option for those who can afford it or have a hook up on parts/labor. There are not so great examples of B5S4s for sale all over for ~$5K-6500. That seems a whole lot easier (I realize maybe not as cool or modern a body style).

I just gave my .02 as I know the 2.7T very well. I've owned five B5s, two of which were S4s. I'm joining the B6 community tomorrow with 1.8TQM USP. Personally, I'll probably just get a K04-15 kit and call it good as this will be my beater. I love the 2.7T but this is a lot of work and expense for an aging platform.

[AudiA4_20T]

Then don't do a swap you can't afford. I would think the point of doing this is to get Hp and Tq in a power band that would otherwise be unachievable with the 1.8T. You can get 300Hp with a turbo kit on the 1.8T easy. If staying stock K03s (which will pop when chipped for any length of time) you're not getting much more than a BT kit other than low end Tq. Also, labor isn't free and neither is my time. If/(when) the k03s turbos fail, you'll end up pulling it all back out. You can get OEM BW K04s for $2100 and stay with a cheap stg3- tune until you can save up. At least then it's just adding the fueling as the hard part of the job (turbo swap requires an engine pull) is already done.

Yes, it is going to be around $5K to do this right, the 1st time (engine, motor, stg3 kit) but it would be worth it. Also, now you could sell your stock parts and recoup some of the costs. Personally, I wouldn't go this route but it is a great option for those who can afford it or have a hook up on parts/labor. There are not so great examples of B5S4s for sale all over for ~$5K-6500. That seems a whole lot easier (I realize maybe not as cool or modern a body style).

I just gave my .02 as I know the 2.7T very well. I've owned five B5s, two of which were S4s. I'm joining the B6 community tomorrow with 1.8TQM USP. Personally, I'll probably just get a K04-15 kit and call it good as this will be my beater. I love the 2.7T but this is a lot of work and expense for an aging platform.

Yeah, I guess my write-up was useless, I only used K03s...

[RKLamb]

My B6 S4 had 142K on the dash and was not worth getting another timing kit done. No sir. Lol. So I did this swap to not do the other. My plan is to ride stage 2 for a few months then Im either going to resell it or go with the biggest twin turbo setup I can get or that single turbo kit. No way I was going to pay all that cash again to do the timing system. Especially at 142000 miles.