View Full Version : The Official B6 2.7T DIY/Swap Guide
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diggy79
06-30-2018, 03:20 PM
hey Guys,
Question about the fuel system with the Swap.
I am swapping in a 04 S4, and the current filter has 4 connections with a RL being the 4th. this RL connection looks like it just goes back to the tank, as the V8 in the S4 does not have a return line from motor.
I asked for a 3.0L filters at the parts Store and got another one with 4 connections part # 8E0 201511 J i assume this is wrong as the return line i have too run would connect to this line and the 3.0L filter would only have 3 connections.? i found a filter Part #4F0201511D (3 connections). can someone confirm for me, as i would like to get going on the fuel system.
Cheers
jjvwg
06-30-2018, 03:59 PM
hey Guys,
Question about the fuel system with the Swap.
I am swapping in a 04 S4, and the current filter has 4 connections with a RL being the 4th. this RL connection looks like it just goes back to the tank, as the V8 in the S4 does not have a return line from motor.
I asked for a 3.0L filters at the parts Store and got another one with 4 connections part # 8E0 201511 J i assume this is wrong as the return line i have too run would connect to this line and the 3.0L filter would only have 3 connections.? i found a filter Part #4F0201511D (3 connections). can someone confirm for me, as i would like to get going on the fuel system.
Cheers
you need the early 3.0L/mk4 GTI filter which only has 2 ports.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/fuel-filter/1j0201511a/
diggy79
06-30-2018, 04:36 PM
what about the Evap line.? that's what the 3rd connection is on the 3 prong ones, the 2.7T has 3 lines, F , Return, and Evap?
jjvwg
06-30-2018, 04:51 PM
Evap line has nothing to do with the fuel system. You mean the vent line? That gets capped off.
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kstaack
07-01-2018, 05:18 PM
B7 S4 ABS question:
I have everything ready to splice in, but I have read somewhere that the coding wasn’t being accepted since there was errors in VCDS prior to swapping.
I had my 2.7 running for 4000 miles and was pulled from the b7 recently, so I have some downtime with the car and wouldn’t mind getting ABS working before the Wisconsin winter coming up.
I’m not worried about the wire splicing, but I am concerned about the coding portion.
Any info would be greatly appreciated!
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tankdeer
07-01-2018, 05:24 PM
It took us a couple tries to get the coding to be accepted but it worked. Key is knowing the original coding of the donor car the ABS module came from. There is a DIY on ross tech's website (and a helpful video) that should help figure out the coding
kstaack
07-01-2018, 05:38 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/c6ec0ec267d7b92350141e8a819dcc5b.jpg
If I know nothing about the vehicle would I just guess the login until I am able to get into it, then I am able to change the soft coding?
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tankdeer
07-01-2018, 05:47 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180702/c6ec0ec267d7b92350141e8a819dcc5b.jpg
If I know nothing about the vehicle would I just guess the login until I am able to get into it, then I am able to change the soft coding?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYou can certainly guess. We did too an extent. I knew it came from a manual 1.8T B6. Just had to guess in the brakes. Got it after a couple tries. You'll need to do the soft coding to the donor as well.
kstaack
07-01-2018, 05:51 PM
You can certainly guess. We did too an extent. I knew it came from a manual 1.8T B6. Just had to guess in the brakes. Got it after a couple tries. You'll need to do the soft coding to the donor as well.
So none of the coding will pertain to my b7 s4. Was there something that needed to happen before the b7 ABS module were to be taken out of there were error codes in vag com?
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tankdeer
07-01-2018, 06:06 PM
So none of the coding will pertain to my b7 s4. Was there something that needed to happen before the b7 ABS module were to be taken out of there were error codes in vag com?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI don't have an answer to that. In theory once you have the initial coding set then you should be able to code it to be more appropriate to the B7. But we haven't gotten that far yet
kstaack
07-01-2018, 06:39 PM
I don't have an answer to that. In theory once you have the initial coding set then you should be able to code it to be more appropriate to the B7. But we haven't gotten that far yet
Have you gotten your abs working?
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tankdeer
07-01-2018, 06:45 PM
Have you gotten your abs working?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYes but it's still coded for the donor car. It thinks it's on a 1.8 with tiny brakes, instead of a 2.7 with a BBK.
But it works so it's better than nothing
kstaack
07-01-2018, 06:46 PM
When I had 18z on my b7 a4 (now on the b7 s4) I never coded them to being larger and never had any issues... have you experienced any issues?
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tankdeer
07-01-2018, 06:51 PM
When I had 18z on my b7 a4 (now on the b7 s4) I never coded them to being larger and never had any issues... have you experienced any issues?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNot yet, but haven't had to do a panic stop yetb with the new ABS. We have 18z as well and and at least with the old Bosch 8.0, it was still pretty easy to lock them up. But the ABS tried to keep up
kstaack
07-01-2018, 06:52 PM
Not yet, but haven't had to do a panic stop yetb with the new ABS. We have 18z as well and and at least with the old Bosch 8.0, it was still pretty easy to lock them up. But the ABS tried to keep up
Good to know. Over all it’s a fairly straight forward swap?
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tankdeer
07-01-2018, 07:40 PM
Good to know. Over all it’s a fairly straight forward swap?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIt's a pain in the ass (hardlines, bracket, etc), but not overly complicated. Make sure the pinout on the donor is correct. If it's from a 2002 model year you'll need to add a wire to pin 33 for the VSS. You can't use the one at pin 34.
diggy79
07-02-2018, 05:18 PM
hey guys,
i have a couple of connectors coming off the middle rear harness of the engine. one is a 2 connector and one is a 3 connector, right off the center. the harness is from a 2002 Tip car. ? i will post some pictures in a bit. I did delete the air pump, and i know which 2 connectors those are. and i think i have all 4 O2 connects sorted.
its hard when all you get from a Wrecker is the motor, and Harness.
any ideas.?
kstaack
07-03-2018, 05:10 AM
hey guys,
i have a couple of connectors coming off the middle rear harness of the engine. one is a 2 connector and one is a 3 connector, right off the center. the harness is from a 2002 Tip car. ? i will post some pictures in a bit. I did delete the air pump, and i know which 2 connectors those are. and i think i have all 4 O2 connects sorted.
its hard when all you get from a Wrecker is the motor, and Harness.
any ideas.?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180703/ddc81ec16b1e5a0da04ec6d3fe759065.jpg
Like this? I think it’s for SAI...?
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jjvwg
07-03-2018, 05:39 AM
Connectors in the back center (on my 6mt harness at least) were the aux. coolant pump, reverse light switch, and VSS. As for the O2 sensors, the black ones are the front sensors, can’t remember off the top of my head which side is green and which is brown for the tears sensors
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kstaack
07-03-2018, 05:40 AM
hey guys,
i have a couple of connectors coming off the middle rear harness of the engine. one is a 2 connector and one is a 3 connector, right off the center. the harness is from a 2002 Tip car. ? i will post some pictures in a bit. I did delete the air pump, and i know which 2 connectors those are. and i think i have all 4 O2 connects sorted.
its hard when all you get from a Wrecker is the motor, and Harness.
any ideas.?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180703/ddc81ec16b1e5a0da04ec6d3fe759065.jpg
Like this? I think it’s for SAI...?
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tankdeer
07-03-2018, 07:48 AM
We have the same two connectors. IIRC they are VSS and reverse lights/tip junk. Had I noticed them before hand I would have removed all that from the harness (like I did for SAI). But I missed those so they are just wrapped up out of the way.
The one in the pic above is SAI, but it's pretty obvious with the large gauge wire. Aux coolant pump is a blue 2-pin connector.
diggy79
07-03-2018, 09:36 PM
Here are the ones in question they come out of the middle. 744887448974490
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diggy79
07-03-2018, 09:37 PM
These are the sai connectors 7449174492
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seanf86
07-05-2018, 06:26 AM
Had an aha moment yesterday while thinking about cooling fans. I've moved the blue sensor from the lower rad hose to the spot where the 2 pin after run sensor is. My coolant temps hover right around 93C while in traffic now instead of 98+ and my ac works much much better.
AudiA4_20T
07-05-2018, 06:37 AM
Had an aha moment yesterday while thinking about cooling fans. I've moved the blue sensor from the lower rad hose to the spot where the 2 pin after run sensor is. My coolant temps hover right around 93C while in traffic now instead of 98+ and my ac works much much better.
Good call
jjvwg
07-05-2018, 06:43 AM
Had this same thought going through my head but I didn’t think to just swap the sensors! For some reason I was one track minded on using the after run temp sensor and didn’t like the idea of losing the dual temp switch to run each fan separately!
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seanf86
07-05-2018, 11:02 AM
Had this same thought going through my head but I didn’t think to just swap the sensors! For some reason I was one track minded on using the after run temp sensor and didn’t like the idea of losing the dual temp switch to run each fan separately!
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSo if you ground the wire for the temp sensor the fan runs high. I've re jigged my fans probably 3 times now. Here's how I've got it. Dual fan s4 modules are hard to find up here since the s4s only came with one fan so I'm running one of those, same as 2.8 module
Im running 2 blue sensors. One in lower hose and one where the after run sensor is. 95deg in lower hose is hooked to relay for smaller fan to run on high, now I doubt it will barely run, the 105 is set to high fan on my module and low fan is set to run whenever cars running. The 95 deg switch in the back of the head now is hooked to the after run wire that was there before which runs large fan on high as well.
I run the large fan on low to mimic the clutch fan that the motor originally had and for AC since I never got around figuring fan trigger for that.
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jjvwg
07-07-2018, 03:30 PM
So if you ground the wire for the temp sensor the fan runs high. I've re jigged my fans probably 3 times now. Here's how I've got it. Dual fan s4 modules are hard to find up here since the s4s only came with one fan so I'm running one of those, same as 2.8 module
Im running 2 blue sensors. One in lower hose and one where the after run sensor is. 95deg in lower hose is hooked to relay for smaller fan to run on high, now I doubt it will barely run, the 105 is set to high fan on my module and low fan is set to run whenever cars running. The 95 deg switch in the back of the head now is hooked to the after run wire that was there before which runs large fan on high as well.
I run the large fan on low to mimic the clutch fan that the motor originally had and for AC since I never got around figuring fan trigger for that.
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nice setup. im just running the two fans off relays right now triggered by the blue sensor in the lower hose with the larger one triggered from the 95C sensor the smaller one being triggered from the 105C sensor. At some point Ill probably swap it up to the coolant hard pipe and put the after run temp sensor in the lower hose so that i can get true coolant temps and have the fans start up earlier.
blitz2190
07-17-2018, 01:10 PM
Sorry for my lack of responses on here lately I have been overwhelmed with projects lately, One of which was finishing my ultra simple, reliable a/c fan trigger. I have been using mine for about 2 weeks now with no issues, and have designed pcb that I will hopefully have made this week (lead time, price and parts depending) and was wondering if there are two people on here that would like to test them? they will not have a custom housing built for them yet but if they work reliably for multiple people that is the next step and to have it mount in the original fan controller location. PM me if your interested.
tankdeer
07-17-2018, 01:25 PM
Sorry for my lack of responses on here lately I have been overwhelmed with projects lately, One of which was finishing my ultra simple, reliable a/c fan trigger. I have been using mine for about 2 weeks now with no issues, and have designed pcb that I will hopefully have made this week (lead time, price and parts depending) and was wondering if there are two people on here that would like to test them? they will not have a custom housing built for them yet but if they work reliably for multiple people that is the next step and to have it mount in the original fan controller location. PM me if your interested.
Yer inbox is full
blitz2190
07-17-2018, 01:38 PM
fixed, also I figured you would want to be one of the testers so I already had an extra lined up not including the above 2, I'll have 5(most places do batches of 5 for pcb's) made one for bench testing one for me, and 3 to send out.
dougyfresh
07-17-2018, 03:17 PM
Sorry for my lack of responses on here lately I have been overwhelmed with projects lately, One of which was finishing my ultra simple, reliable a/c fan trigger. I have been using mine for about 2 weeks now with no issues, and have designed pcb that I will hopefully have made this week (lead time, price and parts depending) and was wondering if there are two people on here that would like to test them? they will not have a custom housing built for them yet but if they work reliably for multiple people that is the next step and to have it mount in the original fan controller location. PM me if your interested.
I would like to test. You can PM me.
blitz2190
07-18-2018, 04:01 PM
will do, just got the boards ordered, possible 2-3 week wait for the turn around.
blitz2190
07-27-2018, 08:39 AM
boards are set to be milled on Aug 2nd. I currently have one confirmed tester, dougyfresh, and possibly one other if they respond. But if not that leave one open slot, but there is a requirement, you must have your 3.0/1.8t a/c pump wired, the a/c sytem must be hooked up, and it needs to be charged, I need people to test the a/c trigger, then fan controller aspect is simple and doesn't need testing.
diggy79
07-28-2018, 09:52 AM
Hey Guys,
So i See a lot of people still questioning the XSPower down-pipes on the B6 trans mount. To put this to bed, and to reference the mod video that Silva put up in post #3162... THEY WILL NOT FIT WITH MODIFICATION.
Maybe Clint can update first post.
So for everyone's viewing pleasure, here are the unmodded pipes partially mounted to the motor. It looks like two 2" straight sections right after the neck down from 3" as Silva pointed out would be perfect.
https://i.imgur.com/hfER2pb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LQKDD1x.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/In01Elz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3ag7VnE.jpg
I think my plan is to cut them at the weld like Silva did, cut two 2" sections out of the longer pipe that came with the kit, get it all welded back up prior to installing the motor trans in the car.
It also looks like the B6 S4 6mt has the holes on the side if you wanted to do the B5 trans mounted "ears" and B5 subframe.
Cheers
tankdeer
07-28-2018, 12:24 PM
I don't think there's been any question about XS power downpipes fitting unmodified for probably 5 years. It's pretty well documented that they don't.
blitz2190
07-28-2018, 02:07 PM
the only way they fit un-modified is with the side mounts, and only automatic subframes have the spots for that.
19jdog
07-28-2018, 08:01 PM
the only way they fit un-modified is with the side mounts, and only automatic subframes have the spots for that.
So this post from 2014 is wrong??? Cause I was going to go this route with my swap.
Swapped with off the shelf 034 3" B5 S4 downpipes. You use the sidemount brackets and the sky is the limit.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3862/15160784945_7caa2408f4_b.jpg
tankdeer
07-28-2018, 08:34 PM
So this post from 2014 is wrong??? Cause I was going to go this route with my swap.It's not wrong, it's just not very detailed. Like he mentioned, that's a tiptronic subframe. If you don't use that, it won't fit, as there's nothing to mount the B5 style mounts to
oasis
07-28-2018, 11:30 PM
Can anyone comment on what plugs I need to make this swap reversible (ie to make a jumper harness)? My car is a b6 s4.
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blitz2190
07-29-2018, 05:08 AM
to make a jumper harness you need the b5 body plugs( body side not harness side) and the b6 engine harness side body plugs. Also word of warning if your following my wiring chart, its not meant for a jumper harness there are differences such as how you power the ecu and injectors.
jjvwg
07-29-2018, 07:16 AM
Also, you do not need to do a jumper harness to have the swap fully reversible.
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carltonb
08-23-2018, 11:36 AM
Is anyone sending a/c on off signal to ecu?
What is pin 41 (t15m/3) on 2.7 ecu doing?
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AudiA4_20T
08-23-2018, 11:44 AM
Is anyone sending a/c on off signal to ecu?
No, never noticed any issues.
tankdeer
08-23-2018, 11:47 AM
Not using it here
mylek
09-08-2018, 06:48 AM
Hello from Poland,
Did any of you solve the problem of a non-working temperature gauage after replacing the cluster from RB8 to RB4? In order to solve the "close fuel cap" problem, you must flash your ECU to software from 8D0907551D or 8D0907551G ECU. It's woked for me. There is a problem on 551G firmware related with A/C control unit. A/C control unit doesn't start the A/C compressor due to enigne overheat error (code 5). But on 551D everything works fine (no A/C issuses, no "close fuel cap" issue on RB8 dash).
I wanted to use 551M or 551K firmware (from RS4) to have a working launch control, but these versions cause "close fuel cap". That's why the idea of using RB4 dash appeared.
tankdeer
09-08-2018, 11:12 AM
Hello from Poland,
Did any of you solve the problem of a non-working temperature gauage after replacing the cluster from RB8 to RB4? In order to solve the "close fuel cap" problem, you must flash your ECU to software from 8D0907551D or 8D0907551G ECU. It's woked for me. There is a problem on 551G firmware related with A/C control unit. A/C control unit doesn't start the A/C compressor due to enigne overheat error (code 5). But on 551D everything works fine (no A/C issuses, no "close fuel cap" issue on RB8 dash).
I wanted to use 551M or 551K firmware (from RS4) to have a working launch control, but these versions cause "close fuel cap". That's why the idea of using RB4 dash appeared.
Yes. You have to run an extra wire to the cluster. It's missing on RB8 cars. You need to run a wire from t17d/3 (on a B7) to t32(blue)/4 on the cluster. That will fix the coolant temperature gauge
AudiA4_20T
09-08-2018, 05:26 PM
Hey Guys,
So i See a lot of people still questioning the XSPower down-pipes on the B6 trans mount. To put this to bed, and to reference the mod video that Silva put up in post #3162... THEY WILL NOT FIT WITH MODIFICATION.
Maybe Clint can update first post.
So for everyone's viewing pleasure, here are the unmodded pipes partially mounted to the motor. It looks like two 2" straight sections right after the neck down from 3" as Silva pointed out would be perfect.
I think my plan is to cut them at the weld like Silva did, cut two 2" sections out of the longer pipe that came with the kit, get it all welded back up prior to installing the motor trans in the car.
It also looks like the B6 S4 6mt has the holes on the side if you wanted to do the B5 trans mounted "ears" and B5 subframe.
Cheers
BTW, not sure how I missed this, thanks.
I don't think there's been any question about XS power downpipes fitting unmodified for probably 5 years. It's pretty well documented that they don't.
What happens is it's put to bed and then some clown comes in and says "Yeah mine fit fine" when they probably didn't even do their swap. And everyone freaks out and says "OMG if I buy those no modification!!!" and misinformation spreads like wildfire. I'm all about making this the most OEM swap possible, but I've also pulled out enough of those side brackets enough to hate them enough to want to keep the B6 brace.
dougyfresh
09-12-2018, 06:37 PM
That is why I kept the B6 brace and sucked it up that the downpipes won't be OEM but everything else will. Those B5 braces suck. I hated them when I had my B5 as much as I loved the car.
Plus I've been dealing with a transmission crossmember like the B6 since I got into cars when I was 15.... All the 1960-1970s muscle cars use the same design and that's what I'm used to.
oasis
10-17-2018, 05:17 PM
to make a jumper harness you need the b5 body plugs( body side not harness side) and the b6 engine harness side body plugs. Also word of warning if your following my wiring chart, its not meant for a jumper harness there are differences such as how you power the ecu and injectors.Hey blitz, thanks for the reply and I'm glad that you (and Clint) are still around :)
Did you mean to say that I need the b5 body plugs (female) and B6 engine harness plugs (male)?
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19jdog
10-23-2018, 06:39 PM
Any of yall have a fuel gauge inaccuracy after converting to a return line for the 2.7t swap?? Before the swap with my 3.0 my fuel gauge worked great. Now a full tank shows 2/3rd. What gives? I have 2004 if that matters
tankdeer
10-23-2018, 06:42 PM
Don't have that issue
ChanceA4Parks
10-25-2018, 10:10 PM
I haven't had the fuel gauge issue either. I do notice it ends up on empty way sooner now that my swap is done. I could go for a week and a half between fill ups before (2.0t) and now its every 3 days (stage 3 + 2.7t swap). I can't keep my foot out of the gas.
DarkoNova
10-26-2018, 07:04 AM
Looking for advice.
Ever since I got this car a couple years ago, I've dreamed of doing a 2.7t swap.
Well, I found an A6 semi-local with 248k but only 60k on the engine. The guy wants $700 for the car.
I think it sounds like a hell of a deal since I can get everything I need and it's supposedly a low mileage engine. He says that it won't start, though. Just clicks when he tries to start it. I don't have a truck or trailer, and it's expensive to rent one since uhaul charges per mile.
Not sure if I should make the drive out there hoping I can get it started and drive it home or rent a truck or just pass all together.....
Sorry if it isn't "correct" to post this here. I just didn't think this was worth a new thread, and it's 2.7t swap related, so I thought I'd just post in this thread.
tankdeer
10-26-2018, 07:34 AM
Clicking when trying to start is often indicative of a dead battery. It could be that simple. But if that's not it you'd need more in depth diagnosis. A VCDS scan would help.
DarkoNova
10-26-2018, 07:59 AM
Yeah I was really hoping I could drive out there and measure the battery voltage and get some stupid low voltage and try to use that to lower the price. Then sign everything, pay, jump it, and drive it home, lol.
It's just it's an hour and a half away so I don't want to drive out there and find out it's more than a dead battery. Then I have to drive back home and figure out a way to get a truck/trailer and drive another hour and a half back to get it.
Trying to minimize time/money wasted.
19jdog
10-26-2018, 07:09 PM
Looking for advice.
Ever since I got this car a couple years ago, I've dreamed of doing a 2.7t swap.
Well, I found an A6 semi-local with 248k but only 60k on the engine. The guy wants $700 for the car.
I think it sounds like a hell of a deal since I can get everything I need and it's supposedly a low mileage engine. He says that it won't start, though. Just clicks when he tries to start it. I don't have a truck or trailer, and it's expensive to rent one since uhaul charges per mile.
Not sure if I should make the drive out there hoping I can get it started and drive it home or rent a truck or just pass all together.....
Sorry if it isn't "correct" to post this here. I just didn't think this was worth a new thread, and it's 2.7t swap related, so I thought I'd just post in this thread.
For 600 bucks more you could have everything you need plus a motor with only 110000 miles+- vs 250000. I bought my 2.7t for $ 1500 in may of this year, redid all the seals and belts. I drop it in a couple weeks ago.
DarkoNova
10-26-2018, 08:20 PM
Well supposedly the engine was replaced, but I can't really verify that since it doesn't start, because I can't do a compression test.
But even for $700, I can get the Nova put back together and if the engine is original and has 250,000, I guess I can tear the 3.0 down and use the crank to make a stroker.
I found a couple other options for roughly 1500, but they're out of state and this one is only about an hour and a half away. There's other sub-$1000 options, but they're not 2004+. I'm trying to do this swap carb legal since nobody ever does.
I'm gonna go check it out tomorrow, so we'll see.
Hi
Have an b6 2002 3.0V6 5 speed FWD, that i did the 2.7 swap on. Runs great.
However last week I got a nice deal on a complete drivetrain from a 2005 b7 2.0T quattro AWD.
I swapped everything over, but i am having problems with the slave cylinder that feels odd, pedal gets hard. And when the car is running it makes a high metalic sound.
Does any of you know if the swap i am doing can be done? or what I might have missed?
I run stock 2.7 flywheel, RS4 b5 clutch and pressureplate + clutch release bearing.
Is the clutch release bering the samen on the b7 and the rs4 b5?
tankdeer
10-29-2018, 08:21 AM
I believe the throw out bearing is the same, yes. Lots of people use the B6/B7 02X transmission (myself included) without issues
ChanceA4Parks
11-01-2018, 03:55 PM
I had issues with the slave cylinders popping from over extending. I have a a4 b7 with a 2.7t swap and Im using the oem transmission with a TTV flywheel, ACT rs4 clutch and pressure plate. I had to make my own slave cylinder rod that was basically 2 of them welded to each other so that it could finally press and engage the clutch/throwout bearing. Still dont think it should be that far back. It works without any issues and feels normal. Time will tell
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AudiA4_20T
11-01-2018, 03:59 PM
I had issues with the slave cylinders popping from over extending. I have a a4 b7 with a 2.7t swap and Im using the oem transmission with a TTV flywheel, ACT rs4 clutch and pressure plate. I had to make my own slave cylinder rod that was basically 2 of them welded to each other so that it could finally press and engage the clutch/throwout bearing. Still dont think it should be that far back. It works without any issues and feels normal. Time will tell[/URL]
Something sounds wrong there...
tankdeer
11-01-2018, 04:02 PM
Agreed. We are running the sachs metal slave, with the stock 02x rod. Normal 02x, TTV B5->B7 RS4 flywheel and and LUK OEM B7 RS4 clutch, with zero issues
diggy79
11-01-2018, 04:18 PM
I did my 2.7T swap in my S4 using the 0A3 6speed S4 trans , lux RS4 clutch and 034 flywheel using stock throw out and stock slave, stock
Rod length . ? This is a "no mods required" swap using a 0A3 or 01E. Something does sound wrong
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AudiA4_20T
11-01-2018, 04:42 PM
Fixing up the main thread, adding a wiring troubleshooting blurb, based on me helping hundreds of people do these over the past 6 years. Should have made it awhile ago. You're going to see a lot more from me soon
b7_Andy
11-01-2018, 04:56 PM
I posted this before but I think it’s a really good reference for anyone doing drivetrain/engine/clutch swaps... measure this distance from the edge of the slave cylinder bore on the transmission to the center of the dimple on the clutch fork:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181101/37620cade9b972fc8a1dd8edf94efdcc.jpg
This distance should be between 55 and 57mm. If it’s greater than 60mm you’ll be putting some stress on the gears while shifting, if it’s greater than 65mm you won’t be able to shift gears with the engine running.
diggy79
11-01-2018, 05:56 PM
Is that a hint Clint. You planning another 2.7t swap for yourself...?
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AudiA4_20T
11-07-2018, 06:10 PM
Updated with my diagram for B6 -> APB. Enjoy everyone, more to come
TheOnlyJClark
11-12-2018, 08:04 PM
Updated with my diagram for B6 -> APB. Enjoy everyone, more to come
Thanks for posting, A lot of great information.
The wiring harness, Is that meant as direct wiring or can we make that a jumper harness? (B5 Female body plugs to B6 Male body plugs)
AudiA4_20T
11-13-2018, 06:55 AM
Thanks for posting, A lot of great information.
The wiring harness, Is that meant as direct wiring or can we make that a jumper harness? (B5 Female body plugs to B6 Male body plugs)
Meant to be a jumper but if you wanted to solder those connections on a harness you could. Will be posting B7 2.0T -> APB soon
Heckas
11-14-2018, 09:26 AM
I've been driving around with my swap for a while now and I have one pesky code that prevents me from having no check engine light - P1500. Some background Chassis: 2004 3.0L 6 speed manual, Engine: APB. The car was bought with bad engine so it is possible that I actually have a bad J17 relay (i.e. I didn't drive it before swap), but I have a feeling that it is due to the swap wiring. What is sensed by the ECM to determine a malfunctioning J17 and causes it to throw that code?
AudiA4_20T
11-14-2018, 10:00 AM
I've been driving around with my swap for a while now and I have one pesky code that prevents me from having no check engine light - P1500. Some background Chassis: 2004 3.0L 6 speed manual, Engine: APB. The car was bought with bad engine so it is possible that I actually have a bad J17 relay (i.e. I didn't drive it before swap), but I have a feeling that it is due to the swap wiring. What is sensed by the ECM to determine a malfunctioning J17 and causes it to throw that code?
Not the first time I've heard of this. It seems that when you remove the ability for the ECU to control the fuel pump, it'll throw this code. I don't like wiring around failsafes. What wiring did you use?
Heckas
11-14-2018, 10:43 AM
Not the first time I've heard of this. It seems that when you remove the ability for the ECU to control the fuel pump, it'll throw this code. I don't like wiring around failsafes. What wiring did you use?
Thanks for the quick reply. I figured this was common and I've seen some posts touching on it but no clear answer (that I've found). It's been a while since I wired it up, I'll have to dig it up and will post tonight.
Heckas
11-14-2018, 06:11 PM
Thanks for the quick reply. I figured this was common and I've seen some posts touching on it but no clear answer (that I've found). It's been a while since I wired it up, I'll have to dig it up and will post tonight.
I suspect I found the cause, not quite sure why I did this but it looks like I have the high side of relay J17 control connected to switched power (15) and the low side to ground, so it turns on as soon as ignition is turned on. It has been almost two years since I did the wiring (and I have a couple of flavors of schematics that are not dated so I don't know which one is the 'final' version) but there must have been a reason why I didn't connect the low side of J17 control to pin 65 of J220. I tried to bypass as little as possible. Is that really where it should go?
AudiA4_20T
11-15-2018, 10:32 AM
I suspect I found the cause, not quite sure why I did this but it looks like I have the high side of relay J17 control connected to switched power (15) and the low side to ground, so it turns on as soon as ignition is turned on. It has been almost two years since I did the wiring (and I have a couple of flavors of schematics that are not dated so I don't know which one is the 'final' version) but there must have been a reason why I didn't connect the low side of J17 control to pin 65 of J220. I tried to bypass as little as possible. Is that really where it should go?
Yes. That way the ECU can properly ground it and it can act as a failsafe in case your crank position sensor gives or any other checks the ECU has
diggy79
11-17-2018, 03:30 PM
Hey Clint,
I see you updated the info on Post 1 and mention wiring up the stock fan control module. (B6 S4) i have reinstalled both fan control modules and they function in (fail safe mode) they both turn on full speed ATM. I am wondering if you can elaborate on description of how to wire up to the stock controller with the lower rad hose temp switches?. I realize some might chime in with a reply just to use a couple replays, but i really want to keep it OEM looking in the engine compartment
What i have done is found the 2 wires you mention on the large fan connector inside the car at the lower A pillar location. i have also ran all 4 connections from lower rad hose temp switch to the same location. i would like to be able to keep all the wiring modifications in that area, and keep the engine compartment connections OEMish!
I've been playing with the Arduino in that location trying to get a PWM signal to control the fan module with no eval. seems to me we want to "open" that circuit when the car is running and fan is not needed, and close it when the first temp switch (lower temp) closes.? In looking at the diagram and most temp switches, they are normally open when off.
any help would be fabulous,
thanks in advance.
Diggy
ChanceA4Parks
11-18-2018, 08:25 PM
I have a 2008 A4 B7 (2.0t originally). Im about to buy a another clutch setup to have on stand by. I currently have a ACT clutch/pressure plate and TTV flywheel. I havent been able to launch my car yet because of slip. Do I have to get a b5 to b7 conversion flywheel like the TTV or can I just use all b5 parts? Will the b5 flywheel, clutch, and pp all work on my B7 6mt transmission?
2008 Audi A4 S Line, Airlift Performance 3H Suspension, Porsche 6 piston in the front and S4 Brakes (will be Porsche soon) in the rear. Built 2.7T swap with 2.8 Heads, ***TTE780*** Turbos Supertech Valvetrain, JE Pistons (9:0.1), Pauter Rods, custom full Dual 3" Exhaust w/ Magnaflow mufflers & Borla tips, modded OEM bi-pipes, 034 Carbon Y and silicone, custom 2.25"+ turbo inlets, AWE smic, Stage 3 Snow Performance WMI, Motoza Tune (still on alfa tune while I fix issues), and tons more.
tankdeer
11-18-2018, 08:34 PM
You can use a B5 clutch. Or get a grabbier B7 clutch
ChanceA4Parks
11-19-2018, 04:46 AM
So get the b5 to b7 conversion flywheel (like ttv) with a clutch and pp from the b7 to get a better setup?
2008 Audi A4 S Line, Airlift Performance 3H Suspension, Porsche 6 piston in the front and S4 Brakes (will be Porsche soon) in the rear. Built 2.7T swap with 2.8 Heads, ***TTE780*** Turbos Supertech Valvetrain, JE Pistons (9:0.1), Pauter Rods, custom full Dual 3" Exhaust w/ Magnaflow mufflers & Borla tips, modded OEM bi-pipes, 034 Carbon Y and silicone, custom 2.25"+ turbo inlets, AWE smic, Stage 3 Snow Performance WMI, Motoza Tune (still on alfa tune while I fix issues), and tons more.
tankdeer
11-19-2018, 08:43 AM
I thought you said that's what you had?
There are plenty of setups for both flywheels that work. You can run any B5 setup you like or the B5->B7. It's personal preference. But with your build you obviously need a more aggressive friction disk/pressure plate.
ChanceA4Parks
11-19-2018, 12:46 PM
It is definitely what I have. I am trying to make a future upgrade purchase because my brand new setup is slipping badly when launching. I figured I might as well be ready for when I can't take it anymore. I didnt know if the reason I had issues was because of the wrong parts. Apparently, I do have the right parts, just not strong and enough parts. What is the strongest, but still daily driveable clutch setup for this b7 swap? Is ACT clutches even any good?
tankdeer
11-19-2018, 01:07 PM
No idea. I would see what some of the supercharged RS4 guys are running for clutches, as they are putting down plenty of torque. There's definitely some 6 pucks out there, but personally I hate the driveability on a puck style clutch
AudiA4_20T
11-19-2018, 09:28 PM
Hey Clint,
I see you updated the info on Post 1 and mention wiring up the stock fan control module. (B6 S4) i have reinstalled both fan control modules and they function in (fail safe mode) they both turn on full speed ATM. I am wondering if you can elaborate on description of how to wire up to the stock controller with the lower rad hose temp switches?. I realize some might chime in with a reply just to use a couple replays, but i really want to keep it OEM looking in the engine compartment
What i have done is found the 2 wires you mention on the large fan connector inside the car at the lower A pillar location. i have also ran all 4 connections from lower rad hose temp switch to the same location. i would like to be able to keep all the wiring modifications in that area, and keep the engine compartment connections OEMish!
I've been playing with the Arduino in that location trying to get a PWM signal to control the fan module with no eval. seems to me we want to "open" that circuit when the car is running and fan is not needed, and close it when the first temp switch (lower temp) closes.? In looking at the diagram and most temp switches, they are normally open when off.
any help would be fabulous,
thanks in advance.
Diggy
Hi Diggy. They do go on full blast, you can't control them modularly like the stock module. I think some people see that as being a detriment but I lived in South FL when I finished my swap and never had issues. I owe everyone a drawing of the fan wiring. Sometime soon
AudiA4_20T
11-19-2018, 09:31 PM
B7 2.0T -> APB diagram added. Also tweaked the B6 one so there's no need to wire a ground.
diggy79
11-24-2018, 04:13 PM
Hey All,
I am wondering what other have done when swapping to the 3.0L fuel filter?
The B6 S4 with the 4.2L has the filter with 4 lines 1 from Pump, 1 to motor, 1 return, and the E-VAP line. what do you do when you go to the 3.0L filter? block off the EVAP line?, as there is no connections to be made on the 3L filter and fuel comes out of the EVAP line.?
thanks in advance.
jjvwg
11-24-2018, 05:57 PM
Hey All,
I am wondering what other have done when swapping to the 3.0L fuel filter?
The B6 S4 with the 4.2L has the filter with 4 lines 1 from Pump, 1 to motor, 1 return, and the E-VAP line. what do you do when you go to the 3.0L filter? block off the EVAP line?, as there is no connections to be made on the 3L filter and fuel comes out of the EVAP line.?
thanks in advance.
That 4th line is the vent line that goes back to the tank lid. You can either get a tank lid from an early 3.0L car that had a return system or you can cap the line.
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diggy79
11-25-2018, 09:44 AM
thanks jjvwg,
I had capped it under the car a while ago. just cleaning things up. i think i will pull it right off and cap it at the top of the tank.
And just a heads up regarding 3.0L A4's. they don''t all have a return setup. ( i bought a parts car for AC lines and 3.0L Air box)(the car was $400 bucks) the wrecker was up to $500 for all the lines. The parts car is a 04 A4 Avant 3.0L auto B.C. car, and it is returnless.
EuroxS4
11-25-2018, 09:51 AM
You need a early 3.0 2002 or 2003 before the vin split.
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AudiA4_20T
11-25-2018, 09:11 PM
Hey All,
I am wondering what other have done when swapping to the 3.0L fuel filter?
The B6 S4 with the 4.2L has the filter with 4 lines 1 from Pump, 1 to motor, 1 return, and the E-VAP line. what do you do when you go to the 3.0L filter? block off the EVAP line?, as there is no connections to be made on the 3L filter and fuel comes out of the EVAP line.?
thanks in advance.
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/435613-A-look-at-fuel-systems-(Returnless-vs-Return)-and-how-to-convert-the-OEM-way
in regard to the discussion. My car is a 3.0 and did the swap some while ago. However i have 3 lines comming from the front of the car. One is the fuel supply. But what are the 2 other lines?
diggy79
12-07-2018, 02:25 PM
3 lines from the front. 1 is feed from pump.(filter) the other is a return. And the 3rd Is evap or emissions, whatever you want to call it. It goes to the charcoal canister in the rear.
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when you say the thid is evap, then it is from the engine? expect from the fuel supply, the 2 other lines are marked in white and blue. do you know which one that goes to evap and which one that goes as returnline.
i am asking because i just converted the var from FWD to AWD. but the fuel pumps are different and i am trying to sort out what goes where. right now all 3 lines are connected to the fuel pump. As in.
My Fuel pump have 2 lines connected to to gas filter, from the gas filter one line goes to the fuel supply. Then i have one more line from the fuel pump that goes direct to the blue line towards engine. then i have one line white comming from engine and goind back against the rear of the car.
does this sound correct? where in all this is the gastank vent?
diggy79
12-07-2018, 03:03 PM
The evap should have the solenoid on it. Its on the 2.7 engine, but on a 4.2 and a 3.0 Its inline with an electrical connector. The feed and return are direct. No other connections. I have not seen a FWD car but I assume you still have the charcoal canister somewhere..
Your talking about the colors on the fuel line at the motor.? I dont remember which color is which.
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Anyone knows why the b7 2.0 tfsi orginally have a fuel filter with 2 inlets and one exit? does that fuel pump pump gas through 2 ports and then merge them in the filter?
tankdeer
12-10-2018, 10:03 PM
Anyone knows why the b7 2.0 tfsi orginally have a fuel filter with 2 inlets and one exit? does that fuel pump pump gas through 2 ports and then merge them in the filter?It has an internal pressure regulator. One is an inlet and one is a return.
As mentioned i converted my FWD b6 3.0 with the 2.7 swap into quattro by using parts from a b7 2.0 tfsi. The 2.0 tfsi normally uses the fuel filter with 2 inlet ports and one exit. The b7 does not have a return line from engine. However my b6 have a returnline from engine.
So i assume that i instead of using the b7 fuel filter, can buy a filter with only 1 inlet and 1 exit, and then run the returnline to where the 3 fuelfilter exit normally was?
This is based on, one of the two b7 inlet lines to the fuel filter is for fuel return?
tankdeer
12-10-2018, 10:18 PM
Yes, that'll work
diggy79
12-14-2018, 06:34 AM
Jokh
That's exactly what i did. in the short term to get running i removed the return line form the 4.2L-3.0L 4 connection filter and capped it on filter. then i ran my new return line to the connector that i disconnected from filter.
now that i have put the proper filter in (1 in -1 out) i just left it like that that using a proper fuel connection between new return line and stock return connection at filter. i don't know if it affected my fuel amount or not as the 4 connection filter in the 4.2L has a regulator built into it, and the single in/out filters don't. the FPR in on the 2.7T
DemRingsTho315
12-25-2018, 06:44 AM
So I havent read all the way through this made it to about page 100. But I'm going to throw this out there. What are opinions on this. I'm trying to figure out the fan relay wiring. Engine is a 2003 BEL from a allroad. 6speed manual. Going into a 2002 A4 quattro 3.0 with a 6 speed. I found a fan relay on Ebay made for s4
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19jdog
12-25-2018, 09:26 AM
So I havent read all the way through this made it to about page 100. But I'm going to throw this out there. What are opinions on this. I'm trying to figure out the fan relay wiring. Engine is a 2003 BEL from a allroad. 6speed manual. Going into a 2002 A4 quattro 3.0 with a 6 speed. I found a fan relay on Ebay made for s4
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Didn't you just post last night on the 2.7T FB page? I have a 2003 BEL motor aswell and wired it using the diagram I posted. Google is your friend! [:|]
I dont know if this is a problem or if all works as it should.
When the engine is NOT started but the ignition is on (fuel pump is activated) then I can hear a quite high whistle noise from the engine bay. It sounds like it is coming from around the fuel rail. However i have not been able to locate where it is coming from. Maybe it is just the fuel being pumped around that i can hear?
There is no smell of gas near the fuel rail. i changed the fuel pressure regulator, this did not work.
I heard this blowing noise half a year ago and I am quite sure that it is getting worse.
Have any of you heard of this before? know the syndromes?
Thank you:)
diggy79
01-04-2019, 06:47 AM
An update on my swap that we might want to add to the Maintenance list when the 2.7T is on the stand. I live in BC and since the cold weather has rolled in for winter i started to notice a strong fuel smell in the car when started cold. I didn't smell the problem in the summer and fall before freezing temps. it also didn't seem to do it when i had the car parked in the shop, only parked outside in the cold.
After having a closer look at the engine when first started cold outside, i notice fuel leaking from all 6 lower injector o-rings. yes that's right all six lowers, and it looked like a river of fuel out of all six.
I did do some research regarding these o-rings leaking on 2.7Ts and it is common. not sure what my problem is , old o-rings, cracked o-rings, or maybe even non-OEM rings? OEM are (Bosch) o-rings. i have ordered new Bosch o-rings from ECS and will update on my findings once i pull the rail.
long story short, i would add these o-rings to your junkyard motor find build, for a piece of mind. they are cheap and you need 12, 6 on top and 6 on bottom. my donor motor from the wrecker had 180KMs on the clock.
Cheers!
Today 08:17 PM #276
27b7 27b7 is online now
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To anyone still reading, please help! First let me start by saying the first time I made my jumper it was using this write up. I got it to start and drive. Since then I was tucking the harness into the ecu box and I lost the high pitched sound from the throttle body and the car will not start. So second and third attempt I followed This wiring diagram. Same issue. I have used a test light to check orange pin 5 or ecu pin 3 it has power the ecu grounds are working I have the j279 with a jumper wire. The car cranks but doesn't start also it doesn't have the CEL on the dash like clint had mentioned I've checked all the connections he mentioned in his post and I seem to have power to all those places... I am getting enough power at the injectors all the time to illuminate my test light. I cannot get my coils to light my test light tho. I also have another 2.7t APB and I have swapped ecus. And the other one still starts. Any advice would help so much! I am at my whitts end with this car and I'm really hoping someone will have an idea where I screwed up. Also no 200 rpm when cranking....replaced CPS and nothing still. Please any words of wisodom could go a long ways
19jdog
01-07-2019, 08:08 PM
An update on my swap that we might want to add to the Maintenance list when the 2.7T is on the stand. I live in BC and since the cold weather has rolled in for winter i started to notice a strong fuel smell in the car when started cold. I didn't smell the problem in the summer and fall before freezing temps. it also didn't seem to do it when i had the car parked in the shop, only parked outside in the cold.
After having a closer look at the engine when first started cold outside, i notice fuel leaking from all 6 lower injector o-rings. yes that's right all six lowers, and it looked like a river of fuel out of all six.
I did do some research regarding these o-rings leaking on 2.7Ts and it is common. not sure what my problem is , old o-rings, cracked o-rings, or maybe even non-OEM rings? OEM are (Bosch) o-rings. i have ordered new Bosch o-rings from ECS and will update on my findings once i pull the rail.
long story short, i would add these o-rings to your junkyard motor find build, for a piece of mind. they are cheap and you need 12, 6 on top and 6 on bottom. my donor motor from the wrecker had 180KMs on the clock.
Cheers!
Or you can upgrade to EV14's with new o rings. You are going to get a tune, aren't ya?
19jdog
01-07-2019, 08:10 PM
Today 08:17 PM #276
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To anyone still reading, please help! First let me start by saying the first time I made my jumper it was using this write up. I got it to start and drive. Since then I was tucking the harness into the ecu box and I lost the high pitched sound from the throttle body and the car will not start. So second and third attempt I followed This wiring diagram. Same issue. I have used a test light to check orange pin 5 or ecu pin 3 it has power the ecu grounds are working I have the j279 with a jumper wire. The car cranks but doesn't start also it doesn't have the CEL on the dash like clint had mentioned I've checked all the connections he mentioned in his post and I seem to have power to all those places... I am getting enough power at the injectors all the time to illuminate my test light. I cannot get my coils to light my test light tho. I also have another 2.7t APB and I have swapped ecus. And the other one still starts. Any advice would help so much! I am at my whitts end with this car and I'm really hoping someone will have an idea where I screwed up. Also no 200 rpm when cranking....replaced CPS and nothing still. Please any words of wisodom could go a long ways
Sounds like you have no power to the ecu? Im sure Clint will chime in soon!
Thanks for the reply. I have check power to my ecu by using a test light and all the 12v+ seem to have power and I checked the grounds from ecu.... seemed kosher. Maybe I testing this wrong but I cannot get my throttle position sensor to squeal at me no matter what. And I know once I hear that sound I’m golden but i really don’t know what I should check next maybe a relay on the chassis side? I don’t know any help is a a lot of help
AudiA4_20T
01-08-2019, 07:55 AM
Thanks for the reply. I have check power to my ecu by using a test light and all the 12v+ seem to have power and I checked the grounds from ecu.... seemed kosher. Maybe I testing this wrong but I cannot get my throttle position sensor to squeal at me no matter what. And I know once I hear that sound I’m golden but i really don’t know what I should check next maybe a relay on the chassis side? I don’t know any help is a a lot of help
tried to send you a PM with my cell # but I think your box was full
Can anyone tell me what values that originally are in 17-instruments --> 10-adaption blok ?
Channel 029: Tank Characteristic (Fuel Level Sensor 2) --> 128 ?
Channel 030: Tank Characteristic (Fuel Level Sensor 1) --> 128 ?
Channel 032: Tank Characteristic (Not detactable Tank Volume)
Channel 033: Tank Characteristic (Full Calibration)
Channel 034: Tank Characteristic (Dry Calibration)
I might have changed some values while trying to calibrate my fuel cluster. :)
Thank you
diggy79
01-09-2019, 06:39 AM
Jokh, unless someone beats me, i can have a look at my 04 S4 blocks tonight, ? i also have 2 04 A4 3.0 that i could look at as well?
diggy79
01-09-2019, 06:42 AM
Or you can upgrade to EV14's with new o rings. You are going to get a tune, aren't ya?
not with this build, keeping it mild, stage 1 only really. which i already have. i'm lining up a 04 Avant 6mt 3.0 for either a stage 2+ build or 4.2L undecided ATM. i have another 2.7T on the bench that needs turbos, and a line on a 4.2L. i
Jokh, unless someone beats me, i can have a look at my 04 S4 blocks tonight, ? i also have 2 04 A4 3.0 that i could look at as well?
I would really appreciate that. Thank you :D
diggy79
01-12-2019, 12:54 PM
Can anyone tell me what values that originally are in 17-instruments --> 10-adaption blok ?
Channel 029: Tank Characteristic (Fuel Level Sensor 2) --> 128 ?
Channel 030: Tank Characteristic (Fuel Level Sensor 1) --> 128 ?
Channel 032: Tank Characteristic (Not detactable Tank Volume)
Channel 033: Tank Characteristic (Full Calibration)
Channel 034: Tank Characteristic (Dry Calibration)
I might have changed some values while trying to calibrate my fuel cluster. :)
Thank you
Hey Jokh, Sorry so late getting back to you. this is what my 2004 S4 reads
Channel 029: Tank Characteristic (Fuel Level Sensor 2) --> 128
Channel 030: Tank Characteristic (Fuel Level Sensor 1) --> 122
Channel 032: Tank Characteristic (Not detactable Tank Volume) --> 11
Channel 033: Tank Characteristic (Full Calibration) --> 128
Channel 034: Tank Characteristic (Dry Calibration) --> 0
hope this helps
diggy79
01-12-2019, 01:03 PM
An update on my swap that we might want to add to the Maintenance list when the 2.7T is on the stand. I live in BC and since the cold weather has rolled in for winter i started to notice a strong fuel smell in the car when started cold. I didn't smell the problem in the summer and fall before freezing temps. it also didn't seem to do it when i had the car parked in the shop, only parked outside in the cold.
After having a closer look at the engine when first started cold outside, i notice fuel leaking from all 6 lower injector o-rings. yes that's right all six lowers, and it looked like a river of fuel out of all six.
I did do some research regarding these o-rings leaking on 2.7Ts and it is common. not sure what my problem is , old o-rings, cracked o-rings, or maybe even non-OEM rings? OEM are (Bosch) o-rings. i have ordered new Bosch o-rings from ECS and will update on my findings once i pull the rail.
long story short, i would add these o-rings to your junkyard motor find build, for a piece of mind. they are cheap and you need 12, 6 on top and 6 on bottom. my donor motor from the wrecker had 180KMs on the clock.
Cheers!
Update on this issue fellas., so got new O rings from ECS, put them in, and it still leaks!. i had a closer look at the o rings, and the top are bottoms are different. not sure what ECS is going, but OEM, Audi o rings one of them is fatter. anyways. pulled it all apart again, put back in OEM o-rings still leaked. last ditch effort was to swap the injectors from my spare motor with dirty old OEM o rings and no leaks.
then the injector where leaking it was hard to tell where the fuel was coming from, but the must have some sort of crack in the plastic bodies. once i put in a different set of injectors not a single drop. i will try and post a couple of pictures of the o rings when i can.
DemRingsTho315
01-20-2019, 02:14 PM
I forgot to take notes as I read throughout the post. But how much are people extending the down pipes
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diggy79
01-20-2019, 05:34 PM
If your using the xspower DP, 2 inches approximately.
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DemRingsTho315
01-22-2019, 01:32 AM
If your using the xspower DP, 2 inches approximately.
Sent from my SM-G955W using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Yeah the SSAC, Xs power 3'' to 2.5". Thank you for your help
This is the set i was referring too
http://xs-power.com/audi-downpipes-dumppipes-17.htm
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Razgriz227
02-04-2019, 01:01 PM
Hey guys I picked up a s4 that was swapped at auction and I’m not sure which 2.7 engine I have. any quick way to tell for maf purposes? Apparently someone didn’t want to have one 🤦🏼*♂️
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tankdeer
02-04-2019, 01:04 PM
On the front of the passenger size head, where the lift point is, there will be a little flat spot with the code machined in. It'll either be APB or BEL. Most likely APB
Razgriz227
02-04-2019, 03:27 PM
On the front of the passenger size head, where the lift point is, there will be a little flat spot with the code machined in. It'll either be APB or BEL. Most likely APB
Thank you sir.
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AudiA4_20T
02-04-2019, 09:34 PM
Hey guys I picked up a s4 that was swapped at auction and I’m not sure which 2.7 engine I have. any quick way to tell for maf purposes? Apparently someone didn’t want to have one 🤦🏼*♂️
That's pretty cool. Also if the coilpacks are square it's an APB
tankdeer
02-04-2019, 10:24 PM
That's pretty cool. Also if the coilpacks are square it's an APBAssuming it still has stock coils
Razgriz227
02-05-2019, 01:02 PM
So it is absolutely an APB so thanks for that guys. Now I’m unsure if I need the Bosch or hitachi. I’m trying to lookup if I can find that info through vagcom and I’m not finding anything. Are the connections different at all or do I need to play the guessing game?
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tankdeer
02-05-2019, 01:03 PM
If you are referring to the MAF the connections are different, and most likely it'll be Hitachi. You can look at the MAF itself and it should be marked
Razgriz227
02-05-2019, 01:59 PM
If you are referring to the MAF the connections are different, and most likely it'll be Hitachi. You can look at the MAF itself and it should be marked
There isn’t one which is my concern. If for some reason the PO was running a MAFless tune I shouldn’t be getting a code for it. I’ll see if I can look up the differences in the connections and do it that way. Thank you again for the help.
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tankdeer
02-05-2019, 02:41 PM
There isn’t one which is my concern. If for some reason the PO was running a MAFless tune I shouldn’t be getting a code for it. I’ll see if I can look up the differences in the connections and do it that way. Thank you again for the help.
Strange. Yeah, MAFless tunes don't seem too common on these platforms so I kinda doubt it.
Razgriz227
02-05-2019, 03:42 PM
Strange. Yeah, MAFless tunes don't seem too common on these platforms so I kinda doubt it.
My thoughts exactly.
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DemRingsTho315
02-20-2019, 11:08 AM
I previously asked about extending down pipes. And how much each person did. I got my down pipes yesterday. I went with the full 3" . How much do I extend those down. More than 2.5" down pipes. I'm assuming. Also I have been trying to find more BEL 6 speed wiring diagrams. And havent had alot of luck. Any links, page numbers, PM, any sort of help will be much appreciated.
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AudiA4_20T
02-20-2019, 01:53 PM
I previously asked about extending down pipes. And how much each person did. I got my down pipes yesterday. I went with the full 3" . How much do I extend those down. More than 2.5" down pipes. I'm assuming. Also I have been trying to find more BEL 6 speed wiring diagrams. And havent had alot of luck. Any links, page numbers, PM, any sort of help will be much appreciated.
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you want just the PDF of the wiring?
DemRingsTho315
02-20-2019, 02:46 PM
you want just the PDF of the wiring?If you have it
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replica_rs4
02-21-2019, 04:10 PM
Hi, everyone.
Im having bad luck with ac system on my swap. I keep getting wrong ac comoressors .
8e0260805f is early b6 pre 2004 fits my swap but hoses are wrong for my b7
Bought right part which is 8e0260805s but got sent 8e0260805bf which is from late 1.8t b6 . It fits in the bracket and hoses fit but its physically smaller and pulley is smaller.
B5 2.7 ac pulley is about 5 inches , early b6 3.0 pulley is 4.5 inches , late b6 1.8 pulley is 4.25 inches.
So will i have issues by running smaller ac compressor with smaller pulley out of late b6 1.8 t
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tankdeer
02-21-2019, 04:37 PM
Hi, everyone.
Im having bad luck with ac system on my swap. I keep getting wrong ac comoressors .
8e0260805f is early b6 pre 2004 fits my swap but hoses are wrong for my b7
Bought right part which is 8e0260805s but got sent 8e0260805bf which is from late 1.8t b6 . It fits in the bracket and hoses fit but its physically smaller and pulley is smaller.
B5 2.7 ac pulley is about 5 inches , early b6 3.0 pulley is 4.5 inches , late b6 1.8 pulley is 4.25 inches.
So will i have issues by running smaller ac compressor with smaller pulley out of late b6 1.8 t
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We used a stock B7 2.0T compressor. Didn't' even discharge the AC system during the swap. Zero issues
AudiA4_20T
02-22-2019, 08:25 AM
Yeah, never heard anyone having issues. Maybe the stock accessory tensioner can take up the slack of the smaller pulley? Just make sure you get the 3.0 bracket
Laurentiu
02-24-2019, 06:25 AM
I am a bit confused about the trans plate part. I can't seem to find it in any parts catalogue. I found a 2.7 biturbo for 800 dollars from an A6, and I need to know what trans plate I need from the S4 B5. Does anyone have a part number? I own an A4 B6 1.8t quattro manual.
jjvwg
02-24-2019, 07:05 AM
I am a bit confused about the trans plate part. I can't seem to find it in any parts catalogue. I found a 2.7 biturbo for 800 dollars from an A6, and I need to know what trans plate I need from the S4 B5. Does anyone have a part number? I own an A4 B6 1.8t quattro manual.
See part number in link, that’s what you need.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/intermediate-plate/01e103551c/
Not sure about typical motor prices in your area but $800 seems pretty steep, I’d keep looking.
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Laurentiu
02-24-2019, 07:38 AM
I did find something at 600 a while ago, but I didn't buy it. There is another option, of buying an A6, taking the engine off, and selling the rest of the car for parts. This way I might be able to basically get the engine for free.
LE: Judging by the part number, the trans plate seems to be the same on the S4 B5 and the A6. So that means I could get the plate from the donor A6?
LLE: When I said 800, I mean engine including everything needed for the swap.
tankdeer
02-24-2019, 10:24 AM
There is another option, of buying an A6, taking the engine off, and selling the rest of the car for parts. This way I might be able to basically get the engine for free.
That is your best bet, cost wise
LE: Judging by the part number, the trans plate seems to be the same on the S4 B5 and the A6. So that means I could get the plate from the donor A6?
Yes it's the same. It's used on several other engines as well
replica_rs4
03-01-2019, 09:20 PM
I think this was covered somewhere . Those that are using 3.0 rad , what are you capping off third port with on drivers lower side?
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replica_rs4
03-02-2019, 10:48 AM
I think this was covered somewhere . Those that are using 3.0 rad , what are you capping off third port with on drivers lower side?
Sent from my SM-N960F using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)found it. 4d0133335 part number
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AudiA4_20T
03-04-2019, 09:22 AM
I think this was covered somewhere . Those that are using 3.0 rad , what are you capping off third port with on drivers lower side?
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I went to the junkyard and found a hose off a mk4 golf 2.0 or something similar.
ComradeKurwa
03-10-2019, 12:04 AM
What is the 3.0l trans code, and would there need to be anything done to it to fit or anything additional to match up to the 2.7, or is it plug-n-play? I do have a 1.8 with the tip. right now but the 2.7t trans' are ridiculously hard to find, why I'm looking for other options.
AudiA4_20T
03-11-2019, 12:59 PM
What is the 3.0l trans code, and would there need to be anything done to it to fit or anything additional to match up to the 2.7, or is it plug-n-play? I do have a 1.8 with the tip. right now but the 2.7t trans' are ridiculously hard to find, why I'm looking for other options.
Trans codes are hard to use since all of them seem to have different codes but no outward physical differences. The 2002-2003 A4 3.0L 6 speed is also an 01E and the "go-to" for people wanting to use a B6 trans
DemRingsTho315
03-12-2019, 02:07 AM
Is the 01E in the 02-03 B6 the same one used in the B5 S4 ? I'm wanting to do the statis 4:1 center diff mod. But they dont have the b6 01E trans listed
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fR3ZNO
03-12-2019, 11:19 AM
AFAIK the diff washers would be identical between the two.
seanf86
03-17-2019, 03:37 PM
Got cruise control working today using no extra parts. Only on off and set work which is all I was trying for as I never use accel or decel.
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DemRingsTho315
03-27-2019, 05:31 PM
Got cruise control working today using no extra parts. Only on off and set work which is all I was trying for as I never use accel or decel.
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you want just the PDF of the wiring?If you have it
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How did you manage to do this
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seanf86
03-29-2019, 12:44 PM
If you have it
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How did you manage to do this
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Pull apart cruise switch, unplug connector inside for set button, notch housing cut connector off. Splice in blue wire to blue/green wire leaving steering control module, can test it should have 12v when cruise stalk in on position with IGN on. Then white wire runs up to ecu box and on my 2.7 harness it was the red/yellow wire it connected to, that's for the set function. Then in the ecu box put black/white into pin 10 t17e white connector. Just behind there strip a bit of insulation back and splice in red/grey to the black/white wire.
Like I said on off and set work as well as cruise indicator in the dash, brake and clutch function as they should. There is a slight delay when you turn the cruise switch to off with it engaged as the steering control module doesn't cut 12v instantly but other then that it works perfectly.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190329/6f704a0aa7718cb7a571c861b4a32b96.jpg
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19jdog
03-30-2019, 02:39 PM
Pull apart cruise switch, unplug connector inside for set button, notch housing cut connector off. Splice in blue wire to blue/green wire leaving steering control module, can test it should have 12v when cruise stalk in on position with IGN on. Then white wire runs up to ecu box and on my 2.7 harness it was the red/yellow wire it connected to, that's for the set function. Then in the ecu box put black/white into pin 10 t17e white connector. Just behind there strip a bit of insulation back and splice in red/grey to the black/white wire.
Like I said on off and set work as well as cruise indicator in the dash, brake and clutch function as they should. There is a slight delay when you turn the cruise switch to off with it engaged as the steering control module doesn't cut 12v instantly but other then that it works perfectly.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190329/6f704a0aa7718cb7a571c861b4a32b96.jpg
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"red/yellow wire it connected to" on what color plug??? Which pin??
seanf86
03-30-2019, 02:41 PM
"red/yellow wire it connected to" on what color plug??? Which pin??You run the white wire from the set button up to that wire in the ecu box. I used bullet connectors
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19jdog
03-31-2019, 01:59 PM
You run the white wire from the set button up to that wire in the ecu box. I used bullet connectors
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Up to that wire??? which wire is that wire??
seanf86
03-31-2019, 02:07 PM
Up to that wire??? which wire is that wire??White wire from the set button that's shown in picture after you cut connector off, I had to add a piece of wire to have it extend into the ecu box where I attached it to the red/yellow wire with a bullet connector. The red yellow wire is one of the 4 going to ecu for cruise control.
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Hi
Trying to get the A/C to work.
On my A/C compresser 2 wires are connected, one is black and one is red. From there the harness plug will connect the red one to a black wire and the black to a blue/brown one.
The blue/brown is the one that goes to the T17D/5 and the black is going to be grounded.
My question is, can it be true that the black compressor wire is the one that need to be triggered and the red one is ground?
i thought that normally red is always 12V and black ground.
replica_rs4
04-11-2019, 04:58 PM
Hello,
Im trying to adapt my dual SRM intank fuel pumps from b5 s4 to b7 s4 . Billet hat fits with 2 rubber gaskets b5 and b7 combined. I think i can modify basket to work too.
What do i do about transfer tank lines inside the tank. There a larger and a smaller hose that goes from passenger side to drivers side of the tank. Larger line was pointed in to fuel tank basket ,but a small one connect to fuel pump . What do i do with the smaller fuel line? 115749
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replica_rs4
04-12-2019, 08:03 AM
Hello,
Im trying to adapt my dual SRM intank fuel pumps from b5 s4 to b7 s4 . Billet hat fits with 2 rubber gaskets b5 and b7 combined. I think i can modify basket to work too.
What do i do about transfer tank lines inside the tank. There a larger and a smaller hose that goes from passenger side to drivers side of the tank. Larger line was pointed in to fuel tank basket ,but a small one connect to fuel pump . What do i do with the smaller fuel line? 115749
Sent from my SM-N960F using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)So i figured out what to do with smaller line. Now i also know that my Dual SRM is bolt in to older style tank basket.
Anyone swapped fuel pump basket from newer to older style? How is older style basket secured inside the tank ?
First pic is the basket i have now , i need to convert to basket in pic 2 . Hopefully it will not require swapping fuel tanks.
Thank you115819115820
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19jdog
04-14-2019, 05:11 PM
Hi
Trying to get the A/C to work.
On my A/C compresser 2 wires are connected, one is black and one is red. From there the harness plug will connect the red one to a black wire and the black to a blue/brown one.
The blue/brown is the one that goes to the T17D/5 and the black is going to be grounded.
My question is, can it be true that the black compressor wire is the one that need to be triggered and the red one is ground?
i thought that normally red is always 12V and black ground.No, red to the harness and black is ground.
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up50lut3
05-05-2019, 03:10 PM
Can the compressor work without a fcm? Or no... I currently have fans on the dual relay setup.
Thanks
AudiA4_20T
05-09-2019, 10:21 AM
Can the compressor work without a fcm? Or no... I currently have fans on the dual relay setup.
Thanks
Fans and A/C are separate systems.
Steve Bassen
06-01-2019, 07:41 PM
Anyone here running Stern motor mounts with their swap? I've got a B6 tiptronic subframe so it has provisions for the B5 trans mounts, and the combo of the Stern motor mounts and 034 street trans mounts (basically factory style) leaves the motor way higher than stock with a killer CV angle on the prop shaft exiting the trans. We made ~8mm spacers to stack with the trans mounts to aleviate most of this, but the snub mount still sits about 10mm too high to clear the 3.0 snub pocket in the core support since the engine sits so high with these mounts...
diggy79
06-04-2019, 11:27 AM
Good day Fellas!
Just trying to clean up some of my wiring on my swap, and was wondering if anyone has been able to find replacement male and female Pins for the Plenum Chamber connectors. It would be nice to be able to crimp on a new pin on a couple of the wires where the pin changes size?
Hi
So i would need to get this confirmed once again. thank you :)
So my question is, my new aircon compressor (Denso) comes with two wires, one red and one grey. which one of them need to go to ground and which one goes into the connector in the car?
Normally i would assume that grey is ground and red is signal wire. But the leftovers from my old wiring harness, indicates that red should be ground and grey signal.
so signal wire, red or grey?
Thank you:D
19jdog
06-09-2019, 07:46 PM
Hi
So i would need to get this confirmed once again. thank you :)
So my question is, my new aircon compressor (Denso) comes with two wires, one red and one grey. which one of them need to go to ground and which one goes into the connector in the car?
Normally i would assume that grey is ground and red is signal wire. But the leftovers from my old wiring harness, indicates that red should be ground and grey signal.
so signal wire, red or grey?
Thank you:D
On my ac compressor I recently hooked up. Black is ground and red is signal / positive.
On my ac compressor I recently hooked up. Black is ground and red is signal / positive.
To also answer my own question, for others to use. It does not matter wich wire you plug to signal or ground.
jbain2
06-18-2019, 05:48 PM
Posting this question here as it’s a B7 with a 2.7 swap although I think the issue may be unrelated to the swap itself. Finally getting everything back together. Trying to work around the flashing “close fuel cap” warning. I have swapped clusters with a B6 cluster as well as swapped the CCM module to a B6 unit. I recently put the CCM module back in from the B7 and now the engine and cluster won’t shut off when I remove the key. I did all this yesterday. My plan is to swap back the B6 CCM and see if the issue continues but I can’t see how the CCM would cause this. I do have multiple keys paired with each of the clusters.
I’ll report back after I swap the CCM’s back.
What else would cause this? Is there a switch in the ignition cylinder?
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tankdeer
06-18-2019, 06:02 PM
Posting this question here as it’s a B7 with a 2.7 swap although I think the issue may be unrelated to the swap itself. Finally getting everything back together. Trying to work around the flashing “close fuel cap” warning. I have swapped clusters with a B6 cluster as well as swapped the CCM module to a B6 unit. I recently put the CCM module back in from the B7 and now the engine and cluster won’t shut off when I remove the key. I did all this yesterday. My plan is to swap back the B6 CCM and see if the issue continues but I can’t see how the CCM would cause this. I do have multiple keys paired with each of the clusters.
I’ll report back after I swap the CCM’s back.
What else would cause this? Is there a switch in the ignition cylinder?
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Not sure what's causing this but you 100% don't need to change the CCM to get rid of the fuel cap warning.
jbain2
06-18-2019, 06:09 PM
Not sure what's causing this but you 100% don't need to change the CCM to get rid of the fuel cap warning.
What? I haven’t been able to get rid of mine. I had to put in a B6 cluster which got rid of the warning but the engine temp gauge doesn’t work. Were you able to do it with the B7 cluster?
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tankdeer
06-18-2019, 06:10 PM
What? I haven’t been able to get rid of mine. How?
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Went away for us as soon as we changed the cluster. Even before properly coding it
jbain2
06-18-2019, 06:22 PM
Went away for us as soon as we changed the cluster. Even before properly coding it
Yup. That’s what I did. Have to wire the CTS to cluster to get the temp gauge to work.
Still not sure about the ignition not cutting off. This is a new problem. I’m thinking it’s unrelated to the swap but you never know. I couldn’t find anything with a google search.
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tankdeer
06-18-2019, 06:31 PM
Yup. That’s what I did. Have to wire the CTS to cluster to get the temp gauge to work.
Still not sure about the ignition not cutting off. This is a new problem. I’m thinking it’s unrelated to the swap but you never know. I couldn’t find anything with a google search.
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I see, you edited after I responded.
You are right. B6 cluster gets rid of fuel door warning. Add 1 wire for coolant temp. Tried sniffing CAN messages a bit with the B7 cluster but lost interest as B6 clusters are cheap
jbain2
06-19-2019, 12:19 PM
Posting this question here as it’s a B7 with a 2.7 swap although I think the issue may be unrelated to the swap itself. Finally getting everything back together. Trying to work around the flashing “close fuel cap” warning. I have swapped clusters with a B6 cluster as well as swapped the CCM module to a B6 unit. I recently put the CCM module back in from the B7 and now the engine and cluster won’t shut off when I remove the key. I did all this yesterday. My plan is to swap back the B6 CCM and see if the issue continues but I can’t see how the CCM would cause this. I do have multiple keys paired with each of the clusters.
I’ll report back after I swap the CCM’s back.
What else would cause this? Is there a switch in the ignition cylinder?
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Switched back to the old CCM and problem solved. I will have to look at the coding for both. Didn’t realize it could cause this issue.
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DustyA4
06-22-2019, 06:39 AM
Does there happen to be a thread about swapping a 1.8T in a B6?
strombomb
06-23-2019, 12:23 PM
I just had to chime in. I finished this swap a couple months ago and I love the platform. The car started as a 2004 3.0 automatic. 2.7t (currently stage 2), 0A3 6 speed, and B6 S4 brakes. The 0A3 is one of the more recent ones with the 60:40 rear bias and the car is a riot! The gearing in the 0A3 with the 3.89 final drive is just a little lower than 01E with 4.11 and I really like it.
I had a B5 S4 before this and the B6 swap is just better in every way (except I don’t have cruise control yet and a little heavier).
I’ve been daily’ing the B6 for about 4K miles and couldn’t be happier.
Thanks to Clint and Blitz for all of the info.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190623/70e51863b4cc9409c123ec8a0ddf3b44.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190623/b71e9ace87ce15dbba1e34342cea6354.jpg
3 bar
06-24-2019, 07:25 PM
Nice job! I got an A4 Avant now. It's a 1.8t auto and realized that the head has a hairline crack in the head causing it to misfire during startup in Cylinder 3. I already have a stage 3 2.7t and 6 speed trans at my moms house but still need a good clutch and flywheel. Also time and money is an issue. Think I'll have to park it for a while and get the bodywork done on it (since the bodyshop did a lousy job on it) while I try to gather up some more money...
ChanceA4Parks
06-25-2019, 02:10 AM
Just doing some research on getting my ac to work after my swap. Any info you need is here. Thanks
jbain2
06-25-2019, 04:26 AM
Getting close. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190625/4a98ba6160de41ceefae9ce13563b0b2.jpg
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replica_rs4
06-26-2019, 11:05 AM
Hi,
what kind of signal does ecu recieve from ccm airbag crush wire under normal condition and after airbag has been triggered. Trying to replicate factory like set up with standalone.
Thanx
19jdog
06-26-2019, 10:22 PM
I just had to chime in. I finished this swap a couple months ago and I love the platform. The car started as a 2004 3.0 automatic. 2.7t (currently stage 2), 0A3 6 speed, and B6 S4 brakes. The 0A3 is one of the more recent ones with the 60:40 rear bias and the car is a riot! The gearing in the 0A3 with the 3.89 final drive is just a little lower than 01E with 4.11 and I really like it.
I had a B5 S4 before this and the B6 swap is just better in every way (except I don’t have cruise control yet and a little heavier).
I’ve been daily’ing the B6 for about 4K miles and couldn’t be happier.
Thanks to Clint and Blitz for all of the info.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190623/70e51863b4cc9409c123ec8a0ddf3b44.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190623/b71e9ace87ce15dbba1e34342cea6354.jpgWhat intake hose did you use to connect the y pipe to the maf??? I had to make one up. 128477
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AudiA4_20T
06-28-2019, 03:34 PM
I just had to chime in. I finished this swap a couple months ago and I love the platform. The car started as a 2004 3.0 automatic. 2.7t (currently stage 2), 0A3 6 speed, and B6 S4 brakes. The 0A3 is one of the more recent ones with the 60:40 rear bias and the car is a riot! The gearing in the 0A3 with the 3.89 final drive is just a little lower than 01E with 4.11 and I really like it.
I had a B5 S4 before this and the B6 swap is just better in every way (except I don’t have cruise control yet and a little heavier).
I’ve been daily’ing the B6 for about 4K miles and couldn’t be happier.
Thanks to Clint and Blitz for all of the info.
Car looks great, congrats
jbain2
06-28-2019, 04:56 PM
What intake hose did you use to connect the y pipe to the maf??? I had to make one up. 128477
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Is that an 034 MAF hose and housing connected to the stock airbox? If so, is it an S4 airbox to accommodate the 034 housing?
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jbain2
06-28-2019, 05:20 PM
What intake hose did you use to connect the y pipe to the maf??? I had to make one up. 128477
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Is that an 034 MAF hose and housing connected to the stock airbox? If so, is it an S4 airbox to accommodate the 034 housing?
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jjvwg
06-28-2019, 07:13 PM
Is that an 034 MAF hose and housing connected to the stock airbox? If so, is it an S4 airbox to accommodate the 034 housing?
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Interested in specs on this setup also!
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strombomb
06-28-2019, 08:35 PM
Car looks great, congrats
Thanks, it was a great project. I put the thing together without really any performance upgrades; I focused on maintenance and getting it back in the road. I’m glad I did it that way because it’s a great drive, but I think I’ll have need to upgrade some things now.
I think the airflow through the base A4 front bumper and stock side mounts is pretty poor - there’s not really a good path for air to flow. Has anyone tried a front mount under the b6 bumper?
19jdog
07-02-2019, 02:03 PM
Is that an 034 MAF hose and housing connected to the stock airbox? If so, is it an S4 airbox to accommodate the 034 housing?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSorry for the late reply I was on vacation. I'm using my stock 3.0 air box with a 034, 85mm maf adapter and the 034 silicone maf hose. Then I had to use a 3 inch plastic sewer pipe with the rubber fitting to attach to the y pipe. It's not perfect but it works. 🤙
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replica_rs4
07-04-2019, 10:48 AM
Hi,
what kind of signal does ecu recieve from ccm airbag crush wire under normal condition and after airbag has been triggered. Trying to replicate factory like set up with standalone.
Thanxbump. anyone?
thank you
jbain2
07-05-2019, 06:07 PM
Sorry for the late reply I was on vacation. I'm using my stock 3.0 air box with a 034, 85mm maf adapter and the 034 silicone maf hose. Then I had to use a 3 inch plastic sewer pipe with the rubber fitting to attach to the y pipe. It's not perfect but it works. [emoji1690]
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Thanks for the reply. Looks good.
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jbain2
07-05-2019, 06:08 PM
Finally got it running. Weird thing happens when unlocking with the FOB. It unlocks the gas cap too. Anyone else run into this. I have a B7. Thanks.
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Please help, I have my 2.7 b7 running and driving but I’m having a super hard time with the vehicle speed sensor signal. I’ve run the wire down to the kick panel, and I’ve replaced the cv axel and speed sensor. Still nothing. Not sure if the speed sensor goes somewhere else before the ecu, please help. I’d love to learn how to test it, or wire it in manually. Any help is greatly appreciated, send a PM or reply to this this is my last kink
Selling my 2.7t, PM me if interested:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/861812-B6-A4-2-7t-Stage2
AudiA4_20T
08-08-2019, 11:12 AM
Please help, I have my 2.7 b7 running and driving but I’m having a super hard time with the vehicle speed sensor signal. I’ve run the wire down to the kick panel, and I’ve replaced the cv axel and speed sensor. Still nothing. Not sure if the speed sensor goes somewhere else before the ecu, please help. I’d love to learn how to test it, or wire it in manually. Any help is greatly appreciated, send a PM or reply to this this is my last kink
Do you have the 5k rev cut issue? Or you are not seeing speed?
replica_rs4
08-19-2019, 10:55 AM
Full exhaust just got finished. After almost 3 years of chipping away, it is almost ready.137243137244137245
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AudiA4_20T
08-21-2019, 02:11 PM
Full exhaust just got finished. After almost 3 years of chipping away, it is almost ready.137243137244137245
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Hell yeah, that's a great swap donor
replica_rs4
09-07-2019, 12:15 PM
What does fuel tank cap warning in DIS look like? Reason im bringing this up is i dont think i have it. Got my car fired last night for the first time.
2 things are different from others b7 swaps. Link thunder ecu and fuel tank swap from 03 a4. Still need to figure out CAN communication between gauge cluster and ABS.
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tankdeer
09-07-2019, 12:21 PM
What does fuel tank cap warning in DIS look like? Reason im bringing this up is i dont think i have it. Got my car fired last night for the first time.
2 things are different from others b7 swaps. Link thunder ecu and fuel tank swap from 03 a4. Still need to figure out CAN communication between gauge cluster and ABS.
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It's extremely obvious. You'd know if you had it.
https://i.imgur.com/vESwCv0.png
But if you're using a standalone ECU, then all bets are off vs what is "normal"
replica_rs4
09-07-2019, 06:03 PM
Got it.
Thank you
It's extremely obvious. You'd know if you had it.
https://i.imgur.com/vESwCv0.png
But if you're using a standalone ECU, then all bets are off vs what is "normal"
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I have the 5k cut issue and I am not seeing speed
AudiA4_20T
09-23-2019, 07:14 PM
I have the 5k cut issue and I am not seeing speed
if you're not seeing speed one two things are going on:
1. You have a 2002 and need to hook up the speed sensor
2. You have a 2003+ and your wheel speed sensor is bad
EDIT: Found your post, I hope you didn't waste any time running the kick panel wire up, your car reads speed from the transmission. You need to route the trans speed sensor signal to the harness.
B5BAR
09-23-2019, 07:33 PM
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Z3FXWkW/0/383b4802/XL/i-Z3FXWkW-XL.jpg
So close, yet so far away.
Been a slow build due to other projects, but almost a year into it, we are to the point where we "hope" we can start this 04 S4 swap. Currently tracking down a ECU communication issue but hope to find a solution in the next day or two. No response from ECU in Vag-Com, and no indication that the ECU is talking to the cluster, fuel pump or anything. Hoping it is something simple, but welcome to Swap life!
if you're not seeing speed one two things are going on:
1. You have a 2002 and need to hook up the speed sensor
2. You have a 2003+ and your wheel speed sensor is bad
EDIT: Found your post, I hope you didn't waste any time running the kick panel wire up, your car reads speed from the transmission. You need to route the trans speed sensor signal to the harness.
Thanks for your response, I just looked all around my transmission and didn’t see any other wires than the CPS wire. Am I missing something. My speedometer has worked in the past before I cleaned up the wiring harness, and before I pulled the motor and replaced the turbos. I’m not sure what could have gone wrong. I was thinking maybe a bad tone ring? I’ve replaced the abs wheel speed sensor. All my grounds are good and tight. My car is an 06 motor is 01 and trans is 2004 or 2005. Thanks again for all the help
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AudiA4_20T
09-25-2019, 09:04 AM
Thanks for your response, I just looked all around my transmission and didn’t see any other wires than the CPS wire. Am I missing something. My speedometer has worked in the past before I cleaned up the wiring harness, and before I pulled the motor and replaced the turbos. I’m not sure what could have gone wrong. I was thinking maybe a bad tone ring? I’ve replaced the abs wheel speed sensor. All my grounds are good and tight. My car is an 06 motor is 01 and trans is 2004 or 2005. Thanks again for all the help
Did you change the transmission? Which one do you have in there now? The speed sensor is a 3 pin one. The 2 pin is for reverse lights
tankdeer
09-25-2019, 09:50 AM
The B7 does NOT get speed from the transmission. It gets it from the wheel sensor
The B7 does NOT get speed from the transmission. It gets it from the wheel sensor
This is what I thought. I replaced the wheel speed sensor. Still nothing, Clint may be correct tho, my trans might have a vehicle speed sensor depending on what tranny I put in. But I think you are correct I’m going outside to get my hands dirty. I’m going to check the pin and see if it’s 2 pin or 3. If it’s the 2 pin. Do you guys have any advice on what to do?
I have not done the ABS swap yet. But I don’t think the abs module would be involved. Does anyone have any idea where I can tap a wire from? I need my speedometer to work. And I need to get rid of the 5k rev limiter.
Thank you all for the advice, I’ll go get to work and I’ll post my findings later. If anyone has an input or advice post it up and chances are I’ll try it until I get this fixed.
Edit: it’s the 2 pin connector on the trans
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tankdeer
09-25-2019, 04:03 PM
2002 and earlier transmissions have the speed sensor hole. If you used a later one you should be ok. We used our stock 02X and didn't have to do anything
ABS swap doesn't affect it either. Strange that it sounds like it was working before and then stopped
What if I added in another issue into the mix? It’s something I was going to handle myself, but i guess it could be part of my speedometer and 5k limiter. My brake lights stay on. Like all the time from the moment I put the key in the the moment I take them out
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I have replaced both my brake light switch and my abs wheel speed sensor. Hoping to fix this issue but neither did anything
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jjvwg
09-25-2019, 04:10 PM
I would check continuity from the ECU down to the point where you tapped into the speed signal wire in the footwell. Maybe you lost connection where you tied in on either end.
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I would check continuity from the ECU down to the point where you tapped into the speed signal wire in the footwell. Maybe you lost connection where you tied in on either end.
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I have checked for continuity, the wire from the footwell to the ecu, I can’t remember what pin I taped into on the ecu, I know it’s white and blue the same color as the one I tapped into in the kick panel.
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B5BAR
09-26-2019, 07:22 PM
Issue resolved car runs. Relay that was completing ground for the fuel pump and ECU was kaput. Replaced with one that works well now, and all is golden. 2.7T started and is running well. Will drive with stock Maps minus EGT and downstream 02 for a couple tanks, then activate a BW K04 tune. Really odd hearing the 2.7t Burble in this B6 S4 Avant!
Okay I cannot figure out the speed sensor for the life of me. I replaced it with a new Bosch one and it still doesn’t work. Can I tap wire directly from the speed sensor and run it to the ecu? Does anyone know if the ecu can read directly from the sensor? And is it possible to test for voltage at the sensor? Maybe it’s not getting power and it should be?
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nefkntym
09-26-2019, 08:34 PM
Lots has been going in here. Just saw the the part about the cruise control a couple minutes ago. I have driven my avant a few times in the past year, been busy with other stuff. I sent a log off to Solo a couple weeks ago, haven't got any thing back yet. This evening, I swapped Solo ecu to the EPL ecu and grabbed a log and sent that off. It has been awhile and I have way less time now than ever, but it is good to be back. I look forward to catching up.
diggy79
09-27-2019, 09:44 AM
Hey All, Just wanted to share some personal Timing Belt replacement Info. When i first did my Swap i did what most do, tackle the unknowns and maintenance issues with a used 2.7T motor, and one of the most important being the timing belt, Water etc... full service.
I ordered the ECS full kit with a Gates Racing timing Belt (blue) and have put about 5-6 thousand Kms on the since it has been finished. The entire time post build completion the timing belt has squeaked. I have found a couple of threads that say Baby powder works, then later the squeak comes back. i have also heard squeaks only when cold, and or in cold weather. This is also not true, as least not for me. I live is British Columbia and i drove this car in the winter months (normal BC interior temps) and also this past summer (high 20-30 C temps) Still squeaked.
So if your doing a TB job on your 2.7T don't buy the Gates Racing Blue Belt unless you like a constant annoying squeak. I have just done another TB job on my swap with a OEM Continental Contitech Timing Belt Part # TB297 made in Germany, it replaces 078 109 119C and no squeak whats so ever.
In doing some searcher is looks like the Gates Racing belt is make out of Kevlar and is ever so slightly thicker, so it is not as Flexible as the OEM. I just wanted to place this info here as if i had been aware of this problem when doing by Build, i would of avoided the Belt from the Start.
Cheers
19jdog
09-27-2019, 06:55 PM
Hey All, Just wanted to share some personal Timing Belt replacement Info. When i first did my Swap i did what most do, tackle the unknowns and maintenance issues with a used 2.7T motor, and one of the most important being the timing belt, Water etc... full service.
I ordered the ECS full kit with a Gates Racing timing Belt (blue) and have put about 5-6 thousand Kms on the since it has been finished. The entire time post build completion the timing belt has squeaked. I have found a couple of threads that say Baby powder works, then later the squeak comes back. i have also heard squeaks only when cold, and or in cold weather. This is also not true, as least not for me. I live is British Columbia and i drove this car in the winter months (normal BC interior temps) and also this past summer (high 20-30 C temps) Still squeaked.
So if your doing a TB job on your 2.7T don't buy the Gates Racing Blue Belt unless you like a constant annoying squeak. I have just done another TB job on my swap with a OEM Continental Contitech Timing Belt Part # TB297 made in Germany, it replaces 078 109 119C and no squeak whats so ever.
In doing some searcher is looks like the Gates Racing belt is make out of Kevlar and is ever so slightly thicker, so it is not as Flexible as the OEM. I just wanted to place this info here as if i had been aware of this problem when doing by Build, i would of avoided the Belt from the Start.
CheersGood to know!
jbain2
09-28-2019, 04:37 AM
I’m getting an open circuit code only on cylinder 3. I’ve checked all the grounds (I think, frame rail, back of passenger head, under power steering reservoir), redone the pigtail for that cylinder (2.0 conversion), replaced coil pack. I’m not getting any misfires.
Before tracing back through the whole harness, anyone have any other thoughts? Thanks.
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txb7sline
09-29-2019, 11:31 AM
It's been a while since I have read this post,so I am only asking just to save the time of reading almost 3500 posts.[emoji52] Am I going to have the send my gauge cluster in to be reprogrammed for the the 3.2 B7 swap? Thanks in advanced.
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jbain2
09-29-2019, 12:08 PM
It's been a while since I have read this post,so I am only asking just to save the time of reading almost 3500 posts.[emoji52] Am I going to have the send my gauge cluster in to be reprogrammed for the the 3.2 B7 swap? Thanks in advanced.
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If you don’t want the close fuel cap warning you are going to need to track down a B6 cluster and have it cloned.
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diggy79
09-29-2019, 12:15 PM
If you don’t want the close fuel cap warning you are going to need to track down a B6 cluster and have it cloned.
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Jbain, your saying i could take a backup of my B6 S4 Cluster using VAG EEPROM programmer and use it on a future B7 Swap with the B7 cluster.?
jbain2
09-29-2019, 12:40 PM
Jbain, your saying i could take a backup of my B6 S4 Cluster using VAG EEPROM programmer and use it on a future B7 Swap with the B7 cluster.?
It’s more than just that. There is also a small chip in the key fob that needs to be replaced. The cluster needs to be cloned with the new chip//fob. You can do it but you need the corresponding chip for the fob. A few of us have used speedosolutions.
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B5BAR
10-02-2019, 11:58 AM
Hey All, Just wanted to share some personal Timing Belt replacement Info. When i first did my Swap i did what most do, tackle the unknowns and maintenance issues with a used 2.7T motor, and one of the most important being the timing belt, Water etc... full service.
I ordered the ECS full kit with a Gates Racing timing Belt (blue) and have put about 5-6 thousand Kms on the since it has been finished. The entire time post build completion the timing belt has squeaked. I have found a couple of threads that say Baby powder works, then later the squeak comes back. i have also heard squeaks only when cold, and or in cold weather. This is also not true, as least not for me. I live is British Columbia and i drove this car in the winter months (normal BC interior temps) and also this past summer (high 20-30 C temps) Still squeaked.
So if your doing a TB job on your 2.7T don't buy the Gates Racing Blue Belt unless you like a constant annoying squeak. I have just done another TB job on my swap with a OEM Continental Contitech Timing Belt Part # TB297 made in Germany, it replaces 078 109 119C and no squeak whats so ever.
In doing some searcher is looks like the Gates Racing belt is make out of Kevlar and is ever so slightly thicker, so it is not as Flexible as the OEM. I just wanted to place this info here as if i had been aware of this problem when doing by Build, i would of avoided the Belt from the Start.
Cheers
Continental is the way to go. Not really sure what a “racing” belt really would be, but we have seen some serious builds that run just fine with the Continental belt. It’s the only one I have used for over 100,000 on my B5 S4 before I swapped my engine to my B6 project.
On that note, Beware of cheap water pumps too. After logging over 100,000 miles on my own 2.7, and having worked on them for years locally, I have learned to avoid cheap POS kit water pumps. Buy the factory OEM one when you can, and don’t skip on the cost of that, or rollers.
Friend picked up a cheap Nogaro B5 S4 last year that was having overheating issues. Turned out the water pump shaft (Pulley to Pump impeller) snapped. Thankfully it just stopped the pump from pushing water, and the car kept timing. That was the 3rd such failure like that last year in my area (Twin Cities MN) all were kit pumps, or cheap off brand aftermarket.
If someone is interested in fixing my jumper harness to make it work I’m offering $250 to whoever thinks they can fix it
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Alex.pl
10-15-2019, 12:41 PM
Did you change the transmission? Which one do you have in there now? The speed sensor is a 3 pin one. The 2 pin is for reverse lights
Hi, AudiA4_20T I send you private message, please pespone I will be gratefull. Sory for this post, I to late activate my account and his message cant delivery to me.
ReevesL
10-15-2019, 03:50 PM
Okay I cannot figure out the speed sensor for the life of me. I replaced it with a new Bosch one and it still doesn’t work. Can I tap wire directly from the speed sensor and run it to the ecu? Does anyone know if the ecu can read directly from the sensor? And is it possible to test for voltage at the sensor? Maybe it’s not getting power and it should be?
Do you have one or two wires running to your kick panel? It looks like from the 2.7t swap wiring thread (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/615033-B5-2-7T-to-B6-A4-Wiring-guide) that B7 cars need a wire for the 5k issue (white/blue) and for the brake switch (red/black). I saw Clint's answer earlier on the speed line, so the blue/white wire may not need to go to your kick panel, I bow to his expertise.
Since you were cleaning stuff up, check the wires to the 2.7t white plug. Pins 1-6 go to the pedal box for brake position. Did you swap from auto to manual for your swap?
I only have one wire going to my kick panel, I did go from Auto to Manual. What wire is needed for the brake light switch? Thanks for your response, this sounds like it could be the issue, I thought the two might be related
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ReevesL
10-16-2019, 09:09 PM
I don't have a B7, I'm just going on the information in this thread:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/615033-B5-2-7T-to-B6-A4-Wiring-guide
That thread has saved me a ton of time on my swap into my B6.
With that disclaimer, it appears you need to run T15(T15e) WHITE Pin11 red/black from your 2.7t harness to T17b GREEN Pin6 red/black in the kick panel.
I highly recommend reading that thread and using it to double-check your wiring. I used it to correct a number of wires in mine and it got me running.
Do you have one or two wires running to your kick panel? It looks like from the 2.7t swap wiring thread (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/615033-B5-2-7T-to-B6-A4-Wiring-guide) that B7 cars need a wire for the 5k issue (white/blue) and for the brake switch (red/black). I saw Clint's answer earlier on the speed line, so the blue/white wire may not need to go to your kick panel, I bow to his expertise.
Since you were cleaning stuff up, check the wires to the 2.7t white plug. Pins 1-6 go to the pedal box for brake position. Did you swap from auto to manual for your swap?
I’m wow thanks a lot man I’m going to try that after work
I’m wow thanks a lot man I’m going to try that after work
So I did some testing today, what I found makes me even more confused. I tested my VSS at the front driver side wheel, with ohms and AC volts. It appears to be in good working order. So I read Clint’s original post again and it says that nothing needs to be done to the VSS on the B7. I’m not sure what my issue could be. I would like to resolve the issue the right way. But I also don’t even know where to begin. I even tried swapping the left and right sensors. No difference. I’m not sure what I can do from here, can I tap into one of the VSS wires and tie it in to the speedometer at the instrument cluster, any ideas are greatly appreciated. Does anyone know if the wire from the VSS to the speedometer is direct?
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Hazzah
10-27-2019, 12:56 PM
Just confirming the only requirements for your b6 are manual and quattro? Because you use ecu harness from 2.7? Currently Looking at a 2004 b6
Thanks H
AudiA4_20T
10-27-2019, 09:08 PM
Just confirming the only requirements for your b6 are manual and quattro? Because you use ecu harness from 2.7? Currently Looking at a 2004 b6
Thanks H
You technically don't need either, although no one has swapped in an automatic 2.7T yet.
Bonsay1993
11-04-2019, 07:25 AM
Hello @Germany, my S4 with Swap :)
Laurentiu
11-13-2019, 11:53 AM
I just found an A6 C5 Allroad with 2.7 biturbo for 1400USD. It's a good deal, because the car looks in great condition, and I can sell all the parts, keep the engine and even make a little bit of profit. It has an automatic transmission. How does the B6 1.8t 6 speed quattro gearbox pair with the engine? Do I need extra parts from an S4 B5, or does the A6 has everything I need?
CaptainFaulsack
11-21-2019, 11:57 AM
Hey Guys,
im from germany, we have a big community here who also want to swap their B6 to a 2.7t at the moment. The most of us have a 1.8t or a 3.0 body to make it real.
But some of us also want to swap their TDIs to a 2.7t. So i wanted to ask if someone here has sucessfully swaped a 2.7t into an TDI B6.
We have already made us a lot of thougts about what parts we need and think it should work so too.
the recommend parts:
-fuel Tank with pump from the 3.0
-engine moutings from the 3.0
-an speedometer from an petrol B6
-S4 Gearbox Plate
-S4/A6engine with harness and ecu with immo of
-...
Are there other important parts we need?
Does anyone know if the wiring of the vehicle itself is different between a petrol and a diesel B6? Or should it work like with an 3.0?
So are we right? If we install the parts, have a speedometer with immo off, and a Ecu with immo off, and do the wiring with wiring diagramms, the engine should run?`
I hope anyone here can tell us a litte bit of this TDI swap...it seems to get a little bit difficulter than the 3.0 swap...
Best regards,
Andreas[:d]
AudiA4_20T
11-22-2019, 06:19 AM
I just found an A6 C5 Allroad with 2.7 biturbo for 1400USD. It's a good deal, because the car looks in great condition, and I can sell all the parts, keep the engine and even make a little bit of profit. It has an automatic transmission. How does the B6 1.8t 6 speed quattro gearbox pair with the engine? Do I need extra parts from an S4 B5, or does the A6 has everything I need?
pairs fine you just need to find an adapter plate from a manual. Also check out page 1 of this thread for parts list.
Hey Guys,
im from germany, we have a big community here who also want to swap their B6 to a 2.7t at the moment. The most of us have a 1.8t or a 3.0 body to make it real.
But some of us also want to swap their TDIs to a 2.7t. So i wanted to ask if someone here has sucessfully swaped a 2.7t into an TDI B6.
We have already made us a lot of thougts about what parts we need and think it should work so too.
the recommend parts:
-fuel Tank with pump from the 3.0
-engine moutings from the 3.0
-an speedometer from an petrol B6
-S4 Gearbox Plate
-S4/A6engine with harness and ecu with immo of
-...
Are there other important parts we need?
Does anyone know if the wiring of the vehicle itself is different between a petrol and a diesel B6? Or should it work like with an 3.0?
So are we right? If we install the parts, have a speedometer with immo off, and a Ecu with immo off, and do the wiring with wiring diagramms, the engine should run?`
I hope anyone here can tell us a litte bit of this TDI swap...it seems to get a little bit difficulter than the 3.0 swap...
Best regards,
Andreas[:d]
Good luck Andreas! Should be similar. The wiring might be different but it shouldn't be too bad.
Laurentiu
11-22-2019, 01:37 PM
pairs fine you just need to find an adapter plate from a manual. Also check out page 1 of this thread for parts list.
Good luck Andreas! Should be similar. The wiring might be different but it shouldn't be too bad.
Sorry, my question was unclear. I did read the first page of the thread, when I asked how does the gearbox pair with the engine, I was referring at the necessity of the S4 B5 trans plate, or if the automatic A6 has the required trans plate. I understand now. I now have to dig the thread, because I know that someone, somewhere, posted the part number for the plate.
AudiA4_20T
11-22-2019, 02:46 PM
Sorry, my question was unclear. I did read the first page of the thread, when I asked how does the gearbox pair with the engine, I was referring at the necessity of the S4 B5 trans plate, or if the automatic A6 has the required trans plate. I understand now. I now have to dig the thread, because I know that someone, somewhere, posted the part number for the plate.
When you get it post it here, I'll add it to the first post
Laurentiu
11-22-2019, 05:30 PM
01E103551C - this is the part number one of the forum members suggested. Before updating the first post, wait until tomorrow, when I'll go to the garage and check the parts catalogue. If this is the right part number, I will also check if we can also find it on other models apart from the S4 B5.
tankdeer
11-22-2019, 06:18 PM
I will also check if we can also find it on other models apart from the S4 B5.
Yes, you can. It comes on several models
AudiA4_20T
12-15-2019, 10:59 AM
after people asking me for years, I finally added a B6->BEL diagram
Laurentiu
12-18-2019, 08:51 AM
I can now confirm that the A6 Allroad 2.7bitirbo automatic gearbox trans plate is the same code with the one from the S4 B5: 01E103551C
DemRingsTho315
12-28-2019, 07:43 AM
I bought a parts car 01 allroad auto . I have just a few questions before I dive right into this. I have a 03 BEL harness I re pinned from a engine I was going to put in. This is going into a 02 A4 3.0 01E
Would it be best for me to do a new conversion harness instead of using my BEL harness. I know there is some difference.
Can I delete the ICM and solder in some FSI style connectors to run new updated coil packs ??
What kind of special stuff will I need to get rid of that automatic trans in the ECU ? Do they have a separate TCU
What kind of compression should I see with these engines ??
Is it possible to use B5 S4 trans mounts ??
oasis
12-31-2019, 11:46 AM
after people asking me for years, I finally added a B6->BEL diagramReally appreciate it, man!
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AudiA4_20T
12-31-2019, 12:46 PM
I bought a parts car 01 allroad auto . I have just a few questions before I dive right into this. I have a 03 BEL harness I re pinned from a engine I was going to put in. This is going into a 02 A4 3.0 01E
Would it be best for me to do a new conversion harness instead of using my BEL harness. I know there is some difference.
Yes, just use the 01 Harness
Can I delete the ICM and solder in some FSI style connectors to run new updated coil packs ??
Yes, there are DIYs in the B5 S4 section that cover this heavily
What kind of special stuff will I need to get rid of that automatic trans in the ECU ? Do they have a separate TCU
Yes they have a separate TCU. Do you plan on making the car manual or auto?
What kind of compression should I see with these engines ??
This may not be a popular opinion, but I check for consistency between cylinders more than absolute values. Gauges can vary.
Is it possible to use B5 S4 trans mounts ??
Yes, and you can run B5 S4 downpipes with them. They're just a pain to install
answered above
DemRingsTho315
01-01-2020, 03:02 AM
answered above
I planned on using the 01E that came with my B6 as I just had it rebuilt with all of the JHM goodies. Obviously there will be some sort of wiring that has to be changed, I’m just trying to make sense of all of this.
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DemRingsTho315
01-01-2020, 05:41 AM
Also I will ask everyone has anybody been able to do a swap and have everything 100% right the first time or is that like a massive long shot. The wiring is my biggest concern. Like put everything in and have the car not start. Then chase down the problem.
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oasis
01-01-2020, 02:19 PM
I will be starting this swap soon on a 2004 S4 using a 2004 A6 BEL, 2000 A6 K-box ecu and have both an auto a6 BEL harness and manual S4 APB harness.
But where the wiring and mechanical elements are covered extensively in this thread, cluster coding/ecu flashing etc still aren't clear to me (I'm relatively new to Audis):
-Do I need to reprogram my cluster or anything else? Does this need to be done before I remove the engine or can it be done afterwards?
-Do I need to "convert" my K-box to an M-box, or do I forget it and use an actual M-box ecu from a manual b5 s4?
-What does a BEL tune mean vs an APB tune? I am using a BEL motor, don't want egr/sai but want to keep pcv vacuum stuff (if possible), do want to use Hitachi MAF, afterun pump and the BEL ignition.
Thanks for any help here.
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AudiA4_20T
01-01-2020, 04:36 PM
Also I will ask everyone has anybody been able to do a swap and have everything 100% right the first time or is that like a massive long shot. The wiring is my biggest concern. Like put everything in and have the car not start. Then chase down the problem.
If you're stressed out about it just buy a manual harness off ebay or craigslist. No issues. Also, yes, I probably personally got ~50+ cars wired. I wrote this on page 1, but main issues are generally just crank sensors or bad relays. Both of this can be solved very easily.
I will be starting this swap soon on a 2004 S4 using a 2004 A6 BEL, 2000 A6 K-box ecu and have both an auto a6 BEL harness and manual S4 APB harness.
But where the wiring and mechanical elements are covered extensively in this thread, cluster coding/ecu flashing etc still aren't clear to me (I'm relatively new to Audis):
-Do I need to reprogram my cluster or anything else? Does this need to be done before I remove the engine or can it be done afterwards?
-Do I need to "convert" my K-box to an M-box, or do I forget it and use an actual M-box ecu from a manual b5 s4?
-What does a BEL tune mean vs an APB tune? I am using a BEL motor, don't want egr/sai but want to keep pcv vacuum stuff (if possible), do want to use Hitachi MAF, afterun pump and the BEL ignition.
Thanks for any help here.
1. I'm almost positive that you need to run the harness/ECU together. So BEL harness & ECU, or APB. Up to you. The plans for both are on page 1.
2. If you are using any C5 A6 ECU past 2001, it will have immobilizer and you will need to do a defeat. Any competent tuner can do this.
3. If you use an APB ECU, it needs to be an "M-Box" file because it allows more information on the K-line to work with the B6/B7 models. The MY2000 software relied more on wiring.
4. Based on your requirements, you should probably just use the BEL setup and have the tuner write out EGR/SAI and get blockoff plates.
Basically just tell your tuner that you want an immob defeated file on your BEL ECU with SAI/EGR coded out.
tankdeer
01-01-2020, 04:40 PM
3. If you use an APB ECU, it needs to be an "M-Box" file because it allows more information on the K-line to work with the B6/B7 models. The MY2000 software relied more on wiring..
Absolutely not true. Currently running a very solid AA box file on T box hardware. Have ran an M box too and there is no difference
AudiA4_20T
01-01-2020, 04:43 PM
Absolutely not true. Currently running a very solid AA box file on T box hardware. Have ran an M box too and there is no difference
Weird. I've seen A box files throw codes and behave strangely a few times. I suspect that there were a bunch of revisions or the tuner themselves can change some things to work. Either way, noted
tankdeer
01-01-2020, 04:50 PM
Weird. I've seen A box files throw codes and behave strangely a few times. I suspect that there were a bunch of revisions or the tuner themselves can change some things to work. Either way, noted
I think any file that is "compatible" with an M box file should be pretty much a non issue. There is a list on the S4 wiki: https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Generations#Compatibility_with_A6_2.7ts
A-box is a Bosch MAF S4 file, so I would think it would work assuming you have the right hardware.
AA-box is an A6 file and was basically plug and play
oasis
01-02-2020, 06:16 PM
Thanks for your reply, Clint. I don't have a BEL ecu, just the engine and wiring harness. I do have an APB ecu and wiring harness though.
Since, you started with a B6 S4 like me, was a cluster recode necessary? Did this have to be done before you started removing tge engine?
Thanks.
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tankdeer
01-02-2020, 06:18 PM
You don't need to do anything to the cluster on a B6
oasis
01-03-2020, 07:18 PM
You don't need to do anything to the cluster on a B6That's a relief, thanks for the input Tank.
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elc0mandante
01-15-2020, 05:19 AM
Hey guys longtime lurker first time poster. I'm looking to find someone between NYC and philly to do this swap for me as I'm not that mechanically inclined. I have an 04 S4 that the motor and trans were already pulled out. I have confidence that my mechanic would eventually figure this swap out but he's an older guy and modding isn't exactly his forte. I'm trying to find someone who's either done it already or is more comfortable modding. I'm open to all suggestions. My friends and I haven't had the best interactions with redline so I haven't even asked them. AWE declined and said they weren't equipped which I thought was weird but whatever. Please help me get this thing done sooner than later. Thanks guys.
D3MR1NG5
01-26-2020, 04:01 AM
I'm going through my engine now. Doing all of the maintenance. What kind of hose is best for doing vacuum lines and rebuilding the PCV spider hose ? Silicone, fuel line , basic rubber hose ?
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Vagodrocher
02-16-2020, 09:45 AM
Hi. I live in Europe. I'm going to replace my 1.8T BFB engine with 2.7T BES. Auto Audi A4B7 2005. Tell me which of the diagrams presented on the first page of the chart should I use. For A4B6 1.8t or A4B7 2.0T? Thanks..https://a.d-cd.net/ykAAAgNPUeA-960.jpg