The Official B6 2.7T DIY/Swap Guide

[blitz2190]

Why can't you just use the pump and condenser etc etc from the 2.7_TT? If your using the ECM it seems obvious??

because its controlled by the hvac head unit. the b6 uses pwm to control the pump where the 2.7 uses a simple on or off constant signal. the bracket is needed to move the pump just slightly forwards to be inline with the accessory belt. But I think I may have just figured out a dead simple trigger for thr fan from the pwm signal, I will report back as soon as my condenser gets here.

[GearHead7]

because its controlled by the hvac head unit. the b6 uses pwm to control the pump where the 2.7 uses a simple on or off constant signal. the bracket is needed to move the pump just slightly forwards to be inline with the accessory belt. But I think I may have just figured out a dead simple trigger for thr fan from the pwm signal, I will report back as soon as my condenser gets here.

So then why not use the HVAC head unit from the 2.7TT as well? lol sorry for the repetitive questioning here that is surely in one of the 70 pages before this, but what if you just simply used the whole 2.7TT AC system, the head unit, condenser, pump etc etc.?

[S4iowa]

So then why not use the HVAC head unit from the 2.7TT as well? lol sorry for the repetitive questioning here that is surely in one of the 70 pages before this, but what if you just simply used the whole 2.7TT AC system, the head unit, condenser, pump etc etc.?

Because if you go back and read this thread. You would see that you you can use the 3.0 B6 compressor and lines. After that all you need to do is figure out how to run the fans. Which everyone has that issue and everyone solves it in different ways

[GearHead7]

I'm referring to the 2.7t and you and everyone else keeps saying, "the 3.0" why? Is the 2.7T hardware centered around the 3.0? Is the 3.0 and 2.7t the same as far as the AC goes?
I have been, I've been reading and up to page 24 so far. It's a lot of info all at once. And I haven't even looked at the motor yet to get my bearings. Once I get a peek at it, this will all click. Don't worry I'm not going to re-ask every single question. Just a few/ so I know what to get from the donor car while I'm picking it.

[S4iowa]

I'm referring to the 2.7t and you and everyone else keeps saying, "the 3.0" why? Is the 2.7T hardware centered around the 3.0? Is the 3.0 and 2.7t the same as far as the AC goes?
I have been, I've been reading and up to page 24 so far. It's a lot of info all at once. And I haven't even looked at the motor yet to get my bearings. Once I get a peek at it, this will all click. Don't worry I'm not going to re-ask every single question. Just a few/ so I know what to get from the donor car while I'm picking it.

The 3.0 AC compressor bolts up to the 2.7. The 3.0 compressor uses the PWM so you don't have to change the hvac controls.

[blitz2190]

The 3.0 AC compressor bolts up to the 2.7. The 3.0 compressor uses the PWM so you don't have to change the hvac controls.

also I'm not sure the hvac from the b5 even fit in the b6 chassis.

[ADCS]

ER intercoolers installed. Gorgeous units. Fits without modification
Fixed a cracked weld in one of the downpipes.
AEM 320lph fuel pump out - Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump in.

It is finally running again...briefly. The 15 year old 3.0 radiator blew-up. [wrench]

1. I forget, is a 2.7t radiator a direct fit in the 3.0 lock carrier/rad support?
2. I am only using the B6 electric fans...Does anybody know of a coolant sensor for the lower rad hose that has a lower trigger temp? I think the normal one is 95C (50% fan duty cycle) and 105C (100% fan duty cycle). I noticed my coolant temp (as measured by the sensor in the upper coolant pipe) was 101C and the fans were off....
3. Is any one running an aftermarket all aluminum radiator? OEM rad is about $250 so its relatively cheap however I am not thrilled with the plastic end tanks.

[mattvon83]

hi everybody. so I'm just finishing up my swap. I cant seem to get my car to start tho. I have gas, spark, and compression. it rolls over fine, nothing hitting. it offers a bit and sounds like it will fire up but nothing. just wont run. Ive done the coil swap to eliminate the bad coils I had. Any ideas as to why wont start? I'm literally ready to pull the 2.7 and drop the 3.0 back in. and that involves rewiring the 3.0 plugs back onto the harness. lol

[Bob Marley]

hi everybody. so I'm just finishing up my swap. I cant seem to get my car to start tho. I have gas, spark, and compression. it rolls over fine, nothing hitting. it offers a bit and sounds like it will fire up but nothing. just wont run. Ive done the coil swap to eliminate the bad coils I had. Any ideas as to why wont start? I'm literally ready to pull the 2.7 and drop the 3.0 back in. and that involves rewiring the 3.0 plugs back onto the harness. lol
Immobilizer?

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[mattvon83]

ecu has no immobilizer. forgot to also mention no codes on ecu either.

[b7_Andy]

ecu has no immobilizer. forgot to also mention no codes on ecu either.

A6 or S4 ECU?

[mattvon83]

01 s4

[ADCS]

Where in Canada are you?

I had the same issue, for me it was the crank sensor. Wiring was damanged under the loom right at the connector. Is the ecu coded for the correct transmission?

[mattvon83]

i am near ottawa. my crank sensor was messed right at the connector but was on the harness side. so i ended up just cutting the plugs off and wired together. yes it is programmed for the transmission. i flashed it with the m file.

[mattvon83]

just thought about the crank position sensor. i currently have the sensor that was in my 6speed from my 3.0. i just left it in there because the 2.7 was mounted to a tip. so figured id be better off with the one from the MT. could that or the fact using the 3.0 flywheel make it offer but not start?

[nefkntym]

Are the plugs to your igniter modules swapped?

[S4iowa]

Are the plugs to your igniter modules swapped?

Ha! This is what happened to me. I had my ICM modules connected the wrong way and took me a hour trying to figure it out on first start. At first I thought it was just taking a while to get fuel ect. Also I didn't have any ICMs since I did the 2.0 coils and had bypass plugs.

[mattvon83]

i also have done the swap. my icm's were hooked up brown plug to brown plug, black to black. they are now taken out and no icm. but still wired as should be. i thought this as well and rewired them the other way to be certain. it didn't even sputter at that point. i think i might have it narrowed down to the CPS. i used my 3.0 cps because it was manual and knew different between auto/man. i checked online today and they are different on the 3.0 than the 2.7/2.8

[Bob Marley]

i also have done the swap. my icm's were hooked up brown plug to brown plug, black to black. they are now taken out and no icm. but still wired as should be. i thought this as well and rewired them the other way to be certain. it didn't even sputter at that point. i think i might have it narrowed down to the CPS. i used my 3.0 cps because it was manual and knew different between auto/man. i checked online today and they are different on the 3.0 than the 2.7/2.8
You're talking about the Gray plug... sensor mounted in the bell housing right?

I finished my swap and used my 3.0 manual CPS. Just plugged it right in... with no start issues. So you Definately do not need a 2.7 CPS

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[blitz2190]

also a cts has been known to cause hard/no start issues, just ran into this yesterday myself.

[nefkntym]

also a cts has been known to cause hard/no start issues, just ran into this yesterday myself.

I was just about to say that. I just had to replace mine recently, same no start issue. Was reading something like 270 celsius on the CTS with 17 celsius for IAT in vagcom on a perfectly cold has car. Changed out the sensor and it fired right up on the first crank.

[ADCS]

just thought about the crank position sensor. i currently have the sensor that was in my 6speed from my 3.0. i just left it in there because the 2.7 was mounted to a tip. so figured id be better off with the one from the MT. could that or the fact using the 3.0 flywheel make it offer but not start?

I used the CPS from a 3.0 TIP trans so you should be fine using the one you did.

One thing in my case, using a 1.8t 02X trans, I had to remove the metal spacer that is on the under side of the CPS. At first it is tricky to see it as it sticks to the sensor however it is there. About .100" thick aluminum. I don't know if you need this on the 01E.

[ADCS]

ER intercoolers installed. Gorgeous units. Fits without modification
Fixed a cracked weld in one of the downpipes.
AEM 320lph fuel pump out - Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump in.

It is finally running again...briefly. The 15 year old 3.0 radiator blew-up. [wrench]

1. I forget, is a 2.7t radiator a direct fit in the 3.0 lock carrier/rad support?
2. I am only using the B6 electric fans...Does anybody know of a coolant sensor for the lower rad hose that has a lower trigger temp? I think the normal one is 95C (50% fan duty cycle) and 105C (100% fan duty cycle). I noticed my coolant temp (as measured by the sensor in the upper coolant pipe) was 101C and the fans were off....
3. Is any one running an aftermarket all aluminum radiator? OEM rad is about $250 so its relatively cheap however I am not thrilled with the plastic end tanks.

And bump to next page for visibility.

[nefkntym]

ER intercoolers installed. Gorgeous units. Fits without modification
Fixed a cracked weld in one of the downpipes.
AEM 320lph fuel pump out - Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump in.

It is finally running again...briefly. The 15 year old 3.0 radiator blew-up. [wrench]

1. I forget, is a 2.7t radiator a direct fit in the 3.0 lock carrier/rad support?
2. I am only using the B6 electric fans...Does anybody know of a coolant sensor for the lower rad hose that has a lower trigger temp? I think the normal one is 95C (50% fan duty cycle) and 105C (100% fan duty cycle). I noticed my coolant temp (as measured by the sensor in the upper coolant pipe) was 101C and the fans were off....
3. Is any one running an aftermarket all aluminum radiator? OEM rad is about $250 so its relatively cheap however I am not thrilled with the plastic end tanks.

The 2.7T is radiator is a 97% fit in the 3.0L lock carrier. You just have to cut off the little tabs.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/427305-Project-Stormtrooper-03-Avant-1-8T-gt-2-8-24V-VR6T-gt-2-7TT-gt-3-2-24V-VR6T?p=7928480&viewfull=1#post7928480

Don't know about a lower temp switch. I always thought it worked pretty good compared to the old adjustable units out there. I am planning rewiring the lower temp switch into the B6 fan controller when I put everything back together. Just started taking it apart this weekend.

I have not heard about any all aluminum radiators lately. That is something I looked into along time ago.

[jayiszraw]

I have not heard about any all aluminum radiators lately. That is something I looked into along time ago.

http://csfrace.com/new-high-performance-audi-b5-s4-radiator/ found this in the b5 s4 section

[ADCS]

The 2.7T is radiator is a 97% fit in the 3.0L lock carrier. You just have to cut off the little tabs.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/427305-Project-Stormtrooper-03-Avant-1-8T-gt-2-8-24V-VR6T-gt-2-7TT-gt-3-2-24V-VR6T?p=7928480&viewfull=1#post7928480

Don't know about a lower temp switch. I always thought it worked pretty good compared to the old adjustable units out there. I am planning rewiring the lower temp switch into the B6 fan controller when I put everything back together. Just started taking it apart this weekend.

I have not heard about any all aluminum radiators lately. That is something I looked into along time ago.

Thanks Aaron! You are like the wikipedia for this swap hahaha.
I going to do some digging on the lower temp switch..it does work OK however it was intended to work in parallel with the viscous clutch fan which I am not using so a slightly lower electric fan turn on setpoint would be good IMO.




http://csfrace.com/new-high-performance-audi-b5-s4-radiator/ found this in the b5 s4 section

Yup, that's the one I was looking at. Looks very nice but likely overkill for me. I think I will stick with a new OEM rad and coolant flush to get all the junk and gunk out.

[Bob Marley]

I going to do some digging on the lower temp switch..it does work OK however it was intended to work in parallel with the viscous clutch fan which I am not using so a slightly lower electric fan turn on setpoint would be good IMO.

My lower temp seems to toggle at about 205 degrees F. You guys think that's too high?

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[nefkntym]

Thanks Aaron! You are like the wikipedia for this swap hahaha.
I going to do some digging on the lower temp switch..it does work OK however it was intended to work in parallel with the viscous clutch fan which I am not using so a slightly lower electric fan turn on setpoint would be good IMO.

Yup, that's the one I was looking at. Looks very nice but likely overkill for me. I think I will stick with a new OEM rad and coolant flush to get all the junk and gunk out.

Just ordered one of those radiators. Triple pass, looks like a pretty good all aluminum unit. I am planning on using the B6 controller for the two main fans, I might wire in the low profile high performance spals from the VR6 in place of the stockers, and keep B5 unit to control the after run pump and the after fan which is now a low profile SPAL pusher fan.





My lower temp seems to toggle at about 205 degrees F. You guys think that's too high?

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That is 95C, so that sounds about right.

[mattvon83]

will the aux water pump coolant temp sensor do the same thing? ive checked the coolant temp and iat in vcds. they are pretty much same. but when i did aux water pump delete i took connector out of the sensor so couldn't cause a problem

[blitz2190]

nope, thats not a sensor, just a simple switch that turns on at a set temp to trigger the aux fan and afterrun pump. Do you have any codes? even if the check engine light is not on scan it with vcds and se what pops up.

[mattvon83]

no codes on engine what so ever.

[blitz2190]

so you checked fuel pressure? and you have spark which means the crank sensor is working(can also verify your rpm gauge should move when cranking), assuming you have good compression, then my bet is on the cts. Is it a stock ecu? if not have you tried a stock ecu? only other issues is you were sure you wired the coil packs to the right banks? each bank has the same colors so its very easy to mess it up.

[mattvon83]

havent checked the fuel pressure i guess cant hurt. never had a prob with it before tho. i can verify the rpm gauge is moving and even in vcds reads 200 rpm when cranking. i should have good compression as ive replaced every gasket and seal in the entire engine and it ran fine before i did that. not stock ecu. the engine came from 02 a6 tip, ecu is from 01 s4 tip. i flashed that to be a manual ecu. as for the cts. i haven't put the front clip/rad back on car. kinda been holding off wanting to hear it at least fire up so dont have to pull everything back off if something is wrong. guess ill try that part tonight and put coolant in.

before any stupid comments. i know cant run car without coolant. like i said just wanted to hear it fire. wasn't planning on driving it or even letting it run for more than a min or 2. just wanted to make sure everything worked and timing wasn't off

[S4iowa]

havent checked the fuel pressure i guess cant hurt. never had a prob with it before tho. i can verify the rpm gauge is moving and even in vcds reads 200 rpm when cranking. i should have good compression as ive replaced every gasket and seal in the entire engine and it ran fine before i did that. not stock ecu. the engine came from 02 a6 tip, ecu is from 01 s4 tip. i flashed that to be a manual ecu. as for the cts. i haven't put the front clip/rad back on car. kinda been holding off wanting to hear it at least fire up so dont have to pull everything back off if something is wrong. guess ill try that part tonight and put coolant in.

before any stupid comments. i know cant run car without coolant. like i said just wanted to hear it fire. wasn't planning on driving it or even letting it run for more than a min or 2. just wanted to make sure everything worked and timing wasn't off

And the engine harness came from a manual car too?

[blitz2190]

havent checked the fuel pressure i guess cant hurt. never had a prob with it before tho. i can verify the rpm gauge is moving and even in vcds reads 200 rpm when cranking. i should have good compression as ive replaced every gasket and seal in the entire engine and it ran fine before i did that. not stock ecu. the engine came from 02 a6 tip, ecu is from 01 s4 tip. i flashed that to be a manual ecu. as for the cts. i haven't put the front clip/rad back on car. kinda been holding off wanting to hear it at least fire up so dont have to pull everything back off if something is wrong. guess ill try that part tonight and put coolant in.

before any stupid comments. i know cant run car without coolant. like i said just wanted to hear it fire. wasn't planning on driving it or even letting it run for more than a min or 2. just wanted to make sure everything worked and timing wasn't off

the cts is on the rear of the engine so the front clip isn't needed, also it will fire without coolant as long as the engine is cold the cts will read at room temp so should be fine. what bin did you flash? Have you verified it was a good flash? this could all be because it was flashed with the wrong bin or interrupted during said flash with low battery causing it to be currupt.

[mattvon83]

i flashed it with a 551m tune if i recal correctly. it did say flash completed. battery was on charger during flash.
does anyone know of a spot to get a tune that i can download to flash?

[blitz2190]

http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?topic=168.0 (need to make an account), also what maf do you have? hitachi or bosch? what did you use to flash it? always verify and make sure you select the right chip in the program. you should always read twice and save to compare the bins, write, then verify.

[mattvon83]

thank you i will try getting another copy and flashing it tonight. not sure on which maf sensor i have i will have to check when get home from work

[mattvon83]

i just looked up that file that you poseted. it doesn't say whether it is bosch or hitachi tho. or does that file not matter which it is?

[blitz2190]

i just looked up that file that you poseted. it doesn't say whether it is bosch or hitachi tho. or does that file not matter which it is?

https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Mass_air_flow#Bosch_vs._Hitachi

cliff notes version you need a hitachi for a stock mbox. people have modded them for bosch as well, but thats not the stock file anymore.

[mattvon83]

ok so from reading that post on the maf. i think maybe have wrong file flashed. might have flashed bosch. check when home. i do know the engine came from 02 a6. ecu was 551al. the ecu is from a 01 s4. orginially 551L. and now have 551m flashed just not sure if bosch or hitatchi.

[Bob Marley]

ok so from reading that post on the maf. i think maybe have wrong file flashed. might have flashed bosch. check when home. i do know the engine came from 02 a6. ecu was 551al. the ecu is from a 01 s4. orginially 551L. and now have 551m flashed just not sure if bosch or hitatchi.
That could definately be an issue

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[blitz2190]

simple fix for that would be to unplugged the maf and see if it starts

[mattvon83]

already did that. still no go

[blitz2190]

already did that. still no go

then the maf is not your issues, I'm still thinking cts or a bad flash, what program did you flash it with? if you have a stock ecu somewhere it would be simple to test. It can even be an auto it will just throw a code for the tcu.

[mattvon83]

i have the stock ecu from the a6 the engine came from. but it has immo so prob wont start. and i flashed with nefro

[blitz2190]

i have the stock ecu from the a6 the engine came from. but it has immo so prob wont start. and i flashed with nefro

it will start then die a few seconds later but will tell you if it the ecu or not.

[mattvon83]

ill try. but nefro said flash completed. never ran low power in battery. but ill try that and also reflash the ecu i plan on using

[mattvon83]

I reflashed the ecu. the only difference is now getting error for rear o2 sensors. they aren't in and the other file had them taken out to not get codes. but still doing same thing on engine. is it possible when I redid the engine that I got the timing off 180 and be firing on the wrong stroke?

[blitz2190]

What flywheel did you use ans yes it is possible if you swaped the 3 icm wires to the opposite side and some flywheels have play enough that if wiggle bolts you can get them to go in resulting in be 180 off, i did that with the fidenza the first time.

[mattvon83]

I used my 3.0 flywheel. I lined up the bolt holes the exact same way the flex plate came off. didn't have to wiggle. at least don't remember having to wiggle them. I'm pretty sure they just went in. lol

[nefkntym]

Did you use a cam bar and crank lock pin?

[blitz2190]

Not positivebut i dont think the 3.0 and 2.7 flywheels have the same trigger missing tooth in the same spot. I disnt even think you could use a 3.0 one. But i guess the cranks are the same bolt wise.

[mattvon83]

Not positivebut i dont think the 3.0 and 2.7 flywheels have the same trigger missing tooth in the same spot. I disnt even think you could use a 3.0 one. But i guess the cranks are the same bolt wise.

this is the 1 thing I could never find a positive answer on. ive found people using the clutch from one to next. using 3.0 crank in 2.7. they bolt together. but any parts site you ever look at will say not compatable. I just figured if can put 3.0 crank in 2.7 can use clutch from either. than the middle piece must be interchangeable too.

[Bob Marley]

this is the 1 thing I could never find a positive answer on. ive found people using the clutch from one to next. using 3.0 crank in 2.7. they bolt together. but any parts site you ever look at will say not compatable. I just figured if can put 3.0 crank in 2.7 can use clutch from either. than the middle piece must be interchangeable too.
I've researched this heavily before I started my swap... only because I had no choice but to replace the clutch & flywheel on my 3.0 a couple months before I started the swap. I was worried I'd end up with a new clutch & flywheel that would be useless on the 2.7.

Conclusion was that a 3.0 flywheel works on 2.7 & 2.7 flywheel works on a 3.0. The clutch however is a married pair (particularly the pressure plate) so you'd have to use a 3.0 clutch with a 3.0 flywheel...2.7 clutch with 2.7 flywheel. Thus why they are never listed as interchangeable on partes sites. There are set pins on the respective flywheels that key it to The pressure plate.

As far as swapping flywheels... The only stipulation is that the flywheel bolts are diffent lengths... you have to make sure that you use 3.0 Flywheel bolts with a 3.0 flywheel... 2.7 bolts with a 2.7 flywheel. The lengths are different because the bolt seat on one of the flywheels is ressesd a bit (can't remember which one). So different bolt lengths compensate for that

Perhaps this is an issue for you cuz if you mix matched the setup... youre flywheel could be pushed out a bit further towards the tranny or too close to the motor relative to the bellhousing and not actuating the CPS sensor properly ...

We're grabbing straws here but it's just a thought.

So regardless of what crank you're using... you're entire setup is determined by flywheel choice...3.0 Flywheel = 3.0 Flywheel Bolts = 3.0 Clutch

...Did you use new 3.0 Flywheel bolts? or new 2.7 flywheel bolts when you installed you're flywheel? If you used 2.7t flywheel bolts that could be an issue as youre flywheel would not be positioned correctly. CPS can't get a good reading...won't allow you to start.

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[ADCS]

And since you said this engine came from a TIP car I assume the thick spacer that was on the crank, behind the flex plate, was removed? I don't think you can fit the flywheel with it on anyways.

[mattvon83]

i used the 3.0 bolts with the 3.0 flywheel. i took spacer off from the 2.7. as for clutch i have to check i cant remember what i bought cause it was 6 months ago or so. it bolted up fine.

[S4iowa]

I've researched this heavily before I started my swap... only because I had no choice but to replace the clutch & flywheel on my 3.0 a couple months before I started the swap. I was worried I'd end up with a new clutch & flywheel that would be useless on the 2.7.

Conclusion was that a 3.0 flywheel works on 2.7 & 2.7 flywheel works on a 3.0. The clutch however is a married pair (particularly the pressure plate) so you'd have to use a 3.0 clutch with a 3.0 flywheel...2.7 clutch with 2.7 flywheel. Thus why they are never listed as interchangeable on partes sites. There are set pins on the respective flywheels that key it to The pressure plate.

As far as swapping flywheels... The only stipulation is that the flywheel bolts are diffent lengths... you have to make sure that you use 3.0 Flywheel bolts with a 3.0 flywheel... 2.7 bolts with a 2.7 flywheel. The lengths are different because the bolt seat on one of the flywheels is ressesd a bit (can't remember which one). So different bolt lengths compensate for that

Perhaps this is an issue for you cuz if you mix matched the setup... youre flywheel could be pushed out a bit further towards the tranny or too close to the motor relative to the bellhousing and not actuating the CPS sensor properly ...

We're grabbing straws here but it's just a thought.

So regardless of what crank you're using... you're entire setup is determined by flywheel choice...3.0 Flywheel = 3.0 Flywheel Bolts = 3.0 Clutch

...Did you use new 3.0 Flywheel bolts? or new 2.7 flywheel bolts when you installed you're flywheel? If you used 2.7t flywheel bolts that could be an issue as youre flywheel would not be positioned correctly. CPS can't get a good reading...won't allow you to start.

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IIRC he said he's showing 200rpm on crank, he should be fine.


Spark
Fuel
Compression

Which one is causing the problem?

[mattvon83]

since I cant seem to find problem. I know I have spark and fuel. so im now going to take valve covers off to check timing on cams and will check timing again on timing belt. might as well double check.

[blitz2190]

How did you test for fuel?

[mattvon83]

I know I have fuel cause didn't have the injectors down 100% when first tried starting. had a lake under the car within minutes

[blitz2190]

I know I have fuel cause didn't have the injectors down 100% when first tried starting. had a lake under the car within minutes

yes but that did you actually verify that it came out of the injectors and not a leak at where they connect? you may have no power to the injectors. the best way to test the wiring is a noid light.

[S4iowa]

yes but that did you actually verify that it came out of the injectors and not a leak at where they connect? you may have no power to the injectors. the best way to test the wiring is a noid light.

Yes, with the wiring/powering of the injectors being different from the B6 to the B5 and how the ECU does it, there could be wiring issues causing fuel delivery.

[nefkntym]

You could always turn the car to on and check each on of the injector connectors for voltage with a multimeter. That is half the battle since they are ground fired from the ecu.

[ADCS]

Just ordered one of those radiators. Triple pass, looks like a pretty good all aluminum unit. I am planning on using the B6 controller for the two main fans, I might wire in the low profile high performance spals from the VR6 in place of the stockers, and keep B5 unit to control the after run pump and the after fan which is now a low profile SPAL pusher fan.

Annnnnd CSF aluminum rad ordered as well. Hoping to have it before the weekend!

I read about some fitment issues in regards to the AC condenser... hopefully with the B6 having a bit more space thus isn't an issue. Either way, not a concern for me right now since I have (temporarily) pulled out the AC components.

[kyleb]

Ive been asked before but was hesitant to share how my fan/ cruise controller works. I dont think i made any schematics for it, but heres the car side wiring and code from the controller.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7eepK-nElAvUmlBNkxUQnl5YUE


#include <SPI.h>
#include "mcp_can.h"

//CAN/MCP vars
unsigned char len = 0;
unsigned char buf[8];
long unsigned int messID;

//Fan timer vars
unsigned long timeold=0;
unsigned long time=0;

//Fan vars
int fan=LOW;
byte temp=0; //Stores CAN temp value
bool acstatus=0; //a/c status
byte fanspeed=9;
const byte high=88; //high fan duty cycle
const byte low=39; //low fan duty cycle
const byte off=9; //fan idle(off) duty cycle
const byte temp1=99;//Stage 1 coolant temp
const byte temp2=102;//Stage 2 coolant temp

//Cruise vars
bool mainsw=0, cancel=0, retard=0, accel=0, set=0, cresume=0;

//Pin assignment vars
byte cpower=4, ccancel=5, cminus=6, cplus=7, fanPWM=8, fan2PWM=9;

MCP_CAN CAN(10); // Set CS pin, init MCP function


void setup()
{
CAN.begin(CAN_500KBPS);

pinMode(cpower,OUTPUT);
pinMode(ccancel,OUTPUT);
pinMode(cminus,OUTPUT);
pinMode(cplus,OUTPUT);
pinMode(fanPWM,OUTPUT);
pinMode(fan2PWM,OUTPUT);

}


void loop()
{

if(CAN.checkReceive()==3){
CAN.readMsgBufID(&messID,&len, buf);

if(messID==906&&bitRead(buf[2],2)==1&&bitRead(buf[2],3)==0){ //Check source of message, only if message is from column module
mainsw=bitRead(buf[1],0);
if(mainsw==1&&bitRead(buf[1],1)==0)cancel=1;
else if(mainsw==1&&bitRead(buf[1],1)==1)cancel=0;
else cancel=0;
if(bitRead(buf[1],2)==1||bitRead(buf[2],0)==1)retard=1;
else retard=0;
if(bitRead(buf[1],3)==1||bitRead(buf[2],1)==1)accel=1;
else accel=0;

digitalWrite(cpower,mainsw); //black/white 4
digitalWrite(ccancel,cancel); //red/gray 5
digitalWrite(cminus,retard); //red/yellow 6
digitalWrite(cplus,accel); //blue 7
}
if(messID==1504){

acstatus=bitRead(buf[0],4);
setfanspeed();
}
if(messID==648){
temp=((buf[1]*.75)-48);
setfanspeed();
}
}



time=millis();
if((time-timeold)>=fanspeed&&fan==HIGH){
fan=LOW;
timeold=time;
}
else if((time-timeold)>=100-fanspeed&&fan==LOW){
fan=HIGH;
timeold=time;
}
digitalWrite(fanPWM,fan);
digitalWrite(fan2PWM,fan);


}
void setfanspeed(){
if(temp>temp1&&fanspeed==off)fanspeed=low;
if(temp>temp2&&fanspeed==low)fanspeed=high;
if(temp<(temp2-4)&&fanspeed==high)fanspeed=low;
if(temp<(temp1-3)&&fanspeed==low)fanspeed=off;
if(fanspeed==off&&acstatus==1)fanspeed=low;

}

[S4iowa]

Ive been asked before but was hesitant to share how my fan/ cruise controller works. I dont think i made any schematics for it, but heres the car side wiring and code from the controller.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7eepK-nElAvUmlBNkxUQnl5YUE

Awesome! You're the man. My controller you made has beenworking great. Do you also have a hardware components list?

[blitz2190]

Ive been asked before but was hesitant to share how my fan/ cruise controller works. I dont think i made any schematics for it, but heres the car side wiring and code from the controller.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7eepK-nElAvUmlBNkxUQnl5YUE

a few things, from the sketch I'm assuming its an arduino with canbus shield, how are you powering it? straight from the 12v or using a 12v to 5v? if its straight 12 how are you handling the 14-16v input, and are you protecting from transients (can be over 300v for a few ms)?

in your code this portion


if(messID==906&&bitRead(buf[2],2)==1&&bitRead(buf[2],3)==0){ //Check source of message, only if message is from column module
mainsw=bitRead(buf[1],0);
if(mainsw==1&&bitRead(buf[1],1)==0)cancel=1;
else if(mainsw==1&&bitRead(buf[1],1)==1)cancel=0;
else cancel=0;
if(bitRead(buf[1],2)==1||bitRead(buf[2],0)==1)retard=1;
else retard=0;
if(bitRead(buf[1],3)==1||bitRead(buf[2],1)==1)accel=1;
else accel=0;

could be reduced to save cpu cycles to


if(messID==906&&bitRead(buf[2],2)==1&&bitRead(buf[2],3)==0){ //Check source of message, only if message is from column module
mainsw=bitRead(buf[1],0);
if(mainsw==1&&bitRead(buf[1],1)==0)cancel=1;
else cancel=0;
if(bitRead(buf[1],2)==1||bitRead(buf[2],0)==1)retard=1;
else retard=0;
if(bitRead(buf[1],3)==1||bitRead(buf[2],1)==1)accel=1;
else accel=0;

good job on the canbus route, and the code looks fairly good. For an end product I would roll your own board with circuit protection and isp, you can use your sketch if you build it around a compatible avr chip and mcp canbus chip and would be much cheaper. Just finished testing the straight wire to ecu method with MurkyRivers_A4 and it worked for him. Hoping to have pics up soon for anyone else.

[AudiA4_20T]

Pretty great how technical this has gotten. Next stop will be decoding the 3.0T

[S4iowa]

a few things, from the sketch I'm assuming its an arduino with canbus shield, how are you powering it? straight from the 12v or using a 12v to 5v? if its straight 12 how are you handling the 14-16v input, and are you protecting from transients (can be over 300v for a few ms)?

in your code this portion



could be reduced to save cpu cycles to



good job on the canbus route, and the code looks fairly good. For an end product I would roll your own board with circuit protection and isp, you can use your sketch if you build it around a compatible avr chip and mcp canbus chip and would be much cheaper. Just finished testing the straight wire to ecu method with MurkyRivers_A4 and it worked for him. Hoping to have pics up soon for anyone else.


He built his own board for the prototype I have.

[3 bar]

can anybody tell me if the spacer that came with my GVE trans is the same width as the b5 S4 trans spacer? Also which downpipes require no modification. Just scored a deal on a 60k A6 motor with K04s for $450!
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq15/Slodoba/Audi/a65880d42965fb3e6d08652b530e4047_zpsjhvuubkf.jpg

[ADCS]

All downpipes require modification unless you have a subframe from an auto car and use the side trans mounts.

All the V6 trans spacers are the same.

[3 bar]

My car is currently a 1.8t auto. My trans spacer is from 2.0t

[AudiA4_20T]

can anybody tell me if the spacer that came with my GVE trans is the same width as the b5 S4 trans spacer? Also which downpipes require no modification. Just scored a deal on a 60k A6 motor with K04s for $450!

wow.

[Bob Marley]

can anybody tell me if the spacer that came with my GVE trans is the same width as the b5 S4 trans spacer? Also which downpipes require no modification. Just scored a deal on a 60k A6 motor with K04s for $450!
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq15/Slodoba/Audi/a65880d42965fb3e6d08652b530e4047_zpsjhvuubkf.jpg
WHATTTTT?

The turbos alone are worth twice... even blown

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[eljay]

Wow. What a score on that engine! Looks so clean too.
I'm contemplating this swap myself, but best I could find around here are engines with 150k miles. Not sure if that's worthwhile to get. I'd be all over a 60k engine even without the K04s.

[GearHead7]

Wow. What a score on that engine! Looks so clean too.
I'm contemplating this swap myself, but best I could find around here are engines with 150k miles. Not sure if that's worthwhile to get. I'd be all over a 60k engine even without the K04s.

That is a killer deal! 450$ with ko4`s, and 40k miles.. Great score.

I was able to pick up a motor with 140K miles and harness, as well as the turbos and alternator (most yards salvage these parts) for 500$ I dont want to tell you guys what shipping was... kinda of killed me [mad] Although the motor is supposed to be good2go, the motor is still in the original vehicle and the seller told me he drove the car around and everything works as should with no lights.

[Bob Marley]

Question... which N75 valves are you guys running ...?

I'm learning there are several versions with different boost delivery, spike & holding characteristics...

I'm stage 3 K04 ...so I'm far from stock...but can't seem to boost past 10psi. I'm not in limp mode.

I suspected the N75 and tested by removing the Wastegate control line briefly & did a light pull...Boosted way past 10psi...I stopped around 15 or so so I wouldn't go Lean.

If I had a significant boost leak...disconnecting the Wastegate line would have not made as noticeable a difference I'm thinking...

So I've concluded that my boost problem is electronic. Either my ECU is requesting only 10psi from the N75 or my N75 is Faulty.

I Could still possibly have a boost leak I know...but I'd like to replace & rule out the N75 completely.

I have The part number that ends in "B"

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[blitz2190]

I would log requested load before changing the valve, aside from that you may need a new valve, a stock one works just fine k04's

[Bob Marley]

I would log requested load before changing the valve, aside from that you may need a new valve, a stock one works just fine k04's
Ok...i think that's block 115 or so...

I'm hearing N75J is a happy medium for tuned 2.7s

I'm scheduled for a smoke test tomorrow morning just to know I'm sealed up from MAF to O2 before i go crazy


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[Ephry73]

Ok...i think that's block 115 or so...

I'm hearing N75J is a happy medium for tuned 2.7s

I'm scheduled for a smoke test tomorrow morning just to know I'm sealed up from MAF to O2 before i go crazy


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

The J one is the "race" version most people run. This applies to the 1.8t as well. Which is how I first experienced the race valve. Smoke test will for sure find the leaks but logging the requested boost versus what you're getting will hopefully point to where the issues are.

E


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[3 bar]

Questions. Been going through the posts and got to page 35 so far.
1st question. Does anybody know if C5 A6 pedals will work in a b6 A4? Mine right now is an auto. Got an 02x trans out of a b7

2nd. My2.7t is out of an 2001 A6 my A4 is an 2004. Will I have a problem with emissions when they plug it up to a computer and it reads an 2001? Or can it be programmed to say it's an 04 or should I find an 04 harness and ECU?

[blitz2190]

No idea on the first and you will be fine on the second question mine is that exact setup and it passed. As long as you have no check engine light and your emissions systems are good.

[Bob Marley]

Questions. Been going through the posts and got to page 35 so far.
1st question. Does anybody know if C5 A6 pedals will work in a b6 A4? Mine right now is an auto. Got an 02x trans out of a b7

2nd. My2.7t is out of an 2001 A6 my A4 is an 2004. Will I have a problem with emissions when they plug it up to a computer and it reads an 2001? Or can it be programmed to say it's an 04 or should I find an 04 harness and ECU?
Run VAG check...As long as you're readiness check looks like this...youre good! CELs alone may not tell you if you you're systems are good for inspectionhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170703/dd533677fe141b6da12e57837770ed84.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[3 bar]

Has anybody used this setup? I know I'm going to have to hack up the down pipes and still need intercoolers. Seems like a cheap alternative
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TA-TECHNIX-INTERCOOLER-and-Downpipes-FOR-AUDI-A4-B5-S4-RS4-A6-C5-2-7T-/112274230657?hash=item1a2410cd81:g:9rYAAOSw4DJYf-ab&vxp=mtr

[3 bar]

Thanks for the info. Plan on doing the coilpack conversion on mine before the install. I've done it already on my b5 A4 with a 1.8t using a junkyard harness. Does anybody have the schematics of an 01 A6 and an 04 Allroad?

[jettin123]

Hey all, I am in the process of a 2.7t in my b6 and am stumped on the fan wiring. I am wiring up two relays as per blitz advice, but don't know which wires are power and ground on the main four plug harness that connects to the fan control module. Basically I need to know what the fan supply 12v and fan supply ground wires are. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170704/22351c1a65455bad257de969495b477d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170704/349166db88cc2bd2754e230e92d1c0fd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170704/f3b30fd2784c960c468e773dce186a5e.jpg

[Ephry73]

Has anybody used this setup? I know I'm going to have to hack up the down pipes and still need intercoolers. Seems like a cheap alternative
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TA-TECHNIX-INTERCOOLER-and-Downpipes-FOR-AUDI-A4-B5-S4-RS4-A6-C5-2-7T-/112274230657?hash=item1a2410cd81:g:9rYAAOSw4DJYf-ab&vxp=mtr

You should be ok with this setup I'm actually selling something similar to that with high flow cats as a kit(shameless plug). Bolted on in my swap just went a different route entirely. You can keep your stock intercoolers and modify the shrouds slightly to get better cooling unless you're going stage three plus


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[blitz2190]

Hey all, I am in the process of a 2.7t in my b6 and am stumped on the fan wiring. I am wiring up two relays as per blitz advice, but don't know which wires are power and ground on the main four plug harness that connects to the fan control module. Basically I need to know what the fan supply 12v and fan supply ground wires are. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170704/22351c1a65455bad257de969495b477d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170704/349166db88cc2bd2754e230e92d1c0fd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170704/f3b30fd2784c960c468e773dce186a5e.jpg

sorry for the late reply been trying to get mine back on the road so been busy, the large red is the 12v fan supply, the large brown is the ground. one of the two smaller wires is the 12v switched signal to supply the relays(should be red/grey). i would wire it to the module side of the plug so its removable.

[jettin123]

Awesome blitz thanks for the response...I wasn't even thinking because all I needed to do was hook the battery up and just use a tester on the wires...I guess too many hours at work has gotten me not thinking straight.

So I tested everything and the red wire was 12v, and the black wire and the brown wire were ground. These readings were taken while the key was not in the ignition. But I couldn't get any reading from the blue wire, whether with ignition on or off. Does the car actually have to be running for it to get power?

Also, what lower radiator hose is everyone using? I test fit the radiator support tonight and the 2.7t hose is very pinched when hooked up...looks like if I was able to rotate it some it would help, but with the notches on the radiator the hose is only able to be twisted 180 degrees. .

[ADCS]

I used a 2.7t lower rad hose and cut new notches in the end of the hose so that it was clocked correctly to match the 3.0 radiator. You could also cut the tabs off the rad side if you want. Or use a 2.7t rad which is what I have now.

[AudiA4_20T]

Guys, apologies for some of the picture links breaking (Thanks Photoshop). I'll be fixing them when time allows.

[blitz2190]

Awesome blitz thanks for the response...I wasn't even thinking because all I needed to do was hook the battery up and just use a tester on the wires...I guess too many hours at work has gotten me not thinking straight.

So I tested everything and the red wire was 12v, and the black wire and the brown wire were ground. These readings were taken while the key was not in the ignition. But I couldn't get any reading from the blue wire, whether with ignition on or off. Does the car actually have to be running for it to get power?

Also, what lower radiator hose is everyone using? I test fit the radiator support tonight and the 2.7t hose is very pinched when hooked up...looks like if I was able to rotate it some it would help, but with the notches on the radiator the hose is only able to be twisted 180 degrees. .

One of the smaller wires comes on with the ignition, or it should, thats the one you use for the relay coil power and run the ground through the lower s4 switch, i used the 2.7 lower hose but cut the plastic clamp off with a dremel and clocked it right then used a hose clamp to hold it.

[ADCS]

Can't remember if I asked this already...Who is running the viscous clutch fan?
IIRC it slightly hit the fan shroud for me so I took it and the pulley off (wasn't planning on running it anyways). Got the new radiator installed which is helping at highway speeds however not so much for city driving since the B6 efans don't seem to be very strong. I am seeing the coolant temperature shoot up near, and sometimes over 110C when idling. 105C+ when city driving. This isn't really a problem however I would like to keep things a lot cooler. Below 100C at all times ideally. I think having a lower fan turn-on temp will help with this and maybe better fans. I am also looking into better ventilation of the hot air but that is another topic all together.

Anybody have logs of their coolant temperature vs vehicle speed for various driving conditions? I would love to see them.

http://www.detailingdistrict.ca/Audi-Random-Pics/CSF_rad_ER_ics.jpg

http://www.detailingdistrict.ca/Audi-Random-Pics/v2.03%20-%20coolant%20temp%20-%20out%20for%20lunch_ambient%2033C.PNG

http://www.detailingdistrict.ca/Audi-Random-Pics/v2.03%20-%20coolant%20temp%20home%20to%20work%2018c%20ambie nt_1.PNG

http://www.detailingdistrict.ca/Audi-Random-Pics/v2.03%20-%20coolant%20temp%20home%20to%20work%2018c%20ambie nt_2.PNG

http://www.detailingdistrict.ca/Audi-Random-Pics/V2.03%20-%20coolant%20temp%20work%20to%20home_33C%20ambient _1.PNG

http://www.detailingdistrict.ca/Audi-Random-Pics/V2.03%20-%20coolant%20temp%20work%20to%20home_34C%20ambient _2.PNG

[jokh]

hello now i only need the last details and then the car is done.
i am having problems with the 2 small ventiles on top of the intake.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=88538&cat=503
The market ventile where does it go to? My b6 chassis is from a 3.0V6 and i cant seem to find where this need to go? I would assume that it need to be connected with the pressure hose from the gastank, but i cant seem to find such thing.

Can anyone help me or point me in the right direction.

Also the brake booster, does it just need to be connectet up to the intake manifold, eventhough there is pressure on it and not vacum, as non turbo cars?

Thank you

- - - Updated - - -

image was missiing:

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/503/Unavngivet.png

[jokh]

It is the market number 1 that i am having trouble with.
Also is it correct where i market the vacum tank, and that is is located in the right front panel?
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/503/Udklip.PNG

[AudiA4_20T]

Can't remember if I asked this already...Who is running the viscous clutch fan?

Why would you when you have 2 electric fans already on the rad support?

[blitz2190]

Can't remember if I asked this already...Who is running the viscous clutch fan?
IIRC it slightly hit the fan shroud for me so I took it and the pulley off (wasn't planning on running it anyways). Got the new radiator installed which is helping at highway speeds however not so much for city driving since the B6 efans don't seem to be very strong. I am seeing the coolant temperature shoot up near, and sometimes over 110C when idling. 105C+ when city driving. This isn't really a problem however I would like to keep things a lot cooler. Below 100C at all times ideally. I think having a lower fan turn-on temp will help with this and maybe better fans. I am also looking into better ventilation of the hot air but that is another topic all together.

Anybody have logs of their coolant temperature vs vehicle speed for various driving conditions? I would love to see them.



I've been looking at a lower temp option as well, currently I still have the bmw temp switch in mine where the s4 one would normally go, I just found out they also make one of the same shape and pinout that has an 85/97 low/high set points. I've never had my aux fan come on and have actually seen my temps dip on the highway/long road when I'm off the gas in gear, but seem to get a little hotter than I like when sitting in traffic. but the high temp never comes on so it may just be in my head.

[ADCS]

Why would you when you have 2 electric fans already on the rad support?

Well for 1 the mechanical fan will flow more than essentially ANY e-fan without getting into kW fans with a water cooled alternator however that is a discussion for another time. :-)

My logs clearly show the B6 fans are not adequate to keep the temps at the propper level. Or they turn on too late. And this is with a brand new more efficient rad and new G13 coolant.

The factory setting for the efan turn on (low speed) is 95C WITH the vicous fan going all the time. High speed is 105C I believe. I think at a minimum we need a lower efan turn on point if the viscous fan isn't present.

[blitz2190]

Well for 1 the mechanical fan will flow more than essentially ANY e-fan without getting into kW fans with a water cooled alternator however that is a discussion for another time. :-)

My logs clearly show the B6 fans are not adequate to keep the temps at the propper level. Or they turn on too late. And this is with a brand new more efficient rad and new G13 coolant.

The factory setting for the efan turn on (low speed) is 95C WITH the vicous fan going all the time. High speed is 105C I believe. I think at a minimum we need a lower efan turn on point if the viscous fan isn't present.

theres a debate going in the b5 section but an efan will flow plenty to cool(at least the stock b6 ones), the problem is as you mentioned the temp switch is too high for some areas, or heavy traffic. A lower switch temp would likely solve this, my fan only runs for a few seconds when it comes on so its more than enough but needs to come on sooner. Also the fans in the b6 are much better than the efk kits they are debating, the cowling, ducts etc have all been taken into count on this chassis as apposed to the aftermarket efk kits for the b5.

[ADCS]

I have seen that thread. A mech fan will outflow any efan. Period. Full stop. Whether or not you actually need the air flow of a mech fan is another story. Maybe. Maybe not. I don't know. The B6 with the 1.8t or 3.0 clearly does not. However doesn't the 4.2 have extra rads? :-)

If you look at my logs you can see while cruising at highway speeds (100+kmh) the coolant temp is OK. They are in the 95-100C range. With an 87C thermostat I think the 95C range is perfect. This tells me my cooling system is in working order. It is the low speed driving or while in traffic where the temp climbs to 110C which I feel is to high. Fans are on at this point however they can't seem to get the temp back down under 100C. I think this points out our efans may not be as effective as we hope.

Also just to make it clear, the temp gauge sits pegged in the middle (90C) whether the coolant is 80-113C (highest I have seen) so it's not over heating and without logging all appears OK. I would really like to see someone else's logs....

[blitz2190]

I have seen that thread. A mech fan will outflow any efan. Period. Full stop. Whether or not you actually need the air flow of a mech fan is another story. Maybe. Maybe not. I don't know. The B6 with the 1.8t or 3.0 clearly does not. However doesn't the 4.2 have extra rads? :-)

If you look at my logs you can see while cruising at highway speeds (100+kmh) the coolant temp is OK. They are in the 95-100C range. With an 87C thermostat I think the 95C range is perfect. This tells me my cooling system is in working order. It is the low speed driving or while in traffic where the temp climbs to 110C which I feel is to high. Fans are on at this point however they can't seem to get the temp back down under 100C. I think this points out our efans may not be as effective as we hope.

Also just to make it clear, the temp gauge sits pegged in the middle (90C) whether the coolant is 80-113C (highest I have seen) so it's not over heating and without logging all appears OK. I would really like to see someone else's logs....

I'll see if I can get a log when it gets warm again, also it only outflows it when its locked up and the engine is spinning, at idle an efan will likely flow more as it can run full speed without the engine needing to be reving. But yeah as soon as the engine gets moving the mechanical will outflow it but its not needed there, the aux fan comes on in the b5 all the time because of the mechanical not flowing enough at idle, worth asking are you seeing both fans come on or just the one?, when I say mine runs I've never actually seen it get hot enough to kick both fans on. If you were to get a switch that came on at say 90(just over the thermostat 87) you would likely see much better temps at idle. Also worth noting is the b6 3.0 radiator is bigger, at least when I compared it to the 2.7 radiator I had when doing the swap, so that may also be why it runs cooler. With the bmw switch I use the fan only runs a few seconds to maybe 30 seconds at a time when sitting in traffic.

[AudiA4_20T]

Well for 1 the mechanical fan will flow more than essentially ANY e-fan without getting into kW fans with a water cooled alternator however that is a discussion for another time. :-)

My logs clearly show the B6 fans are not adequate to keep the temps at the propper level. Or they turn on too late. And this is with a brand new more efficient rad and new G13 coolant.

The factory setting for the efan turn on (low speed) is 95C WITH the vicous fan going all the time. High speed is 105C I believe. I think at a minimum we need a lower efan turn on point if the viscous fan isn't present.

I never had issues with my B6 S4 fans but then again they're the strongest fans (800W vs 400-600W)

[nefkntym]

I put in the lower temp thermostat at the beginning of this build. There are times where I leave the car running to see if the fans are still working. Even when it started getting warmer about a month ago, when I pulled the engine, I still remember thinking at times. Hey the fans came on.

Does anyone actually know the flow rating for the B6 fans? I am going to start putting this back together this weekend, and I am trying to decide if I want to keep the stock B6 fans or just use the SPALs that I bought for the VR6.

[ADCS]

I'll see if I can get a log when it gets warm again, also it only outflows it when its locked up and the engine is spinning, at idle an efan will likely flow more as it can run full speed without the engine needing to be reving. But yeah as soon as the engine gets moving the mechanical will outflow it but its not needed there, the aux fan comes on in the b5 all the time because of the mechanical not flowing enough at idle, worth asking are you seeing both fans come on or just the one?, when I say mine runs I've never actually seen it get hot enough to kick both fans on. If you were to get a switch that came on at say 90(just over the thermostat 87) you would likely see much better temps at idle. Also worth noting is the b6 3.0 radiator is bigger, at least when I compared it to the 2.7 radiator I had when doing the swap, so that may also be why it runs cooler. With the bmw switch I use the fan only runs a few seconds to maybe 30 seconds at a time when sitting in traffic.

Mine is the same. I have not seen the aux fan running with the engine on (wired using B5 fan module). The only time both are on is when the engine is off and the after run pump kicks in.

Yes the 3.0 rad is slightly larger. 632x450x34mm vs 630x460x34mm however in my case the 2.7 rad is all aluminum so heat will dissipate slightly from the end tanks as well. And this rad has 'tripple pass'. Also I don't have the a/c condenser so even more airflow across the rad while moving. Belly pan installed. Rubber seal between the hood and the false firewall has been removed to slightly increase venting.

I am going to look at the fan module circuit again and see if it can handle both fans being run off a single output. Maybe this will give it that little extra bit of juice to keep the idle temps closer to or below 100C.

[RKLamb]

I used the original S4 fans with an aftermarket switch and lower than stock thermostat. My fans barely turn on since I almost never get to my programmed temp unless standing still at idle in traffic or just letting it run in the driveway and the S4 fans blow very strong so they dont stay on long. Just to let you guys know ahead of time. I am probably gonna be selling my car or parting it out this month. Gonna try and get something newer or a two seater. 93k on the engine and tranny and everything else is basically new Stage 3 Franks setup with less than 75 miles of actual driving since swap. Still have some minor things to iron out but everything is fully operational except cruise control.

[blitz2190]

Mine is the same. I have not seen the aux fan running with the engine on (wired using B5 fan module). The only time both are on is when the engine is off and the after run pump kicks in.

Yes the 3.0 rad is slightly larger. 632x450x34mm vs 630x460x34mm however in my case the 2.7 rad is all aluminum so heat will dissipate slightly from the end tanks as well. And this rad has 'tripple pass'. Also I don't have the a/c condenser so even more airflow across the rad while moving. Belly pan installed. Rubber seal between the hood and the false firewall has been removed to slightly increase venting.

I am going to look at the fan module circuit again and see if it can handle both fans being run off a single output. Maybe this will give it that little extra bit of juice to keep the idle temps closer to or below 100C.

you could always put the second one on a separate relay triggered by the same output, that way you know it will be fine, also I may have found a lower temp replacement just trying to find a pic of the pins to see if it will just drop in.

*Edit

never mind it has a different plug, but for those interested, it looks like the groove around the base above the hex head(if that makes sense) is the perfect shape to fit in the hose with the stock clamp like I did with the bmw switch. I'm going to see if I can find a plug to go with it as this switch would be worth a shot at 87 low and 93 high. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-meyle-parts/auxiliary-fan-switch-87-93c/701959481~mey/

[RKLamb]

It is the market number 1 that i am having trouble with.
Also is it correct where i market the vacum tank, and that is is located in the right front panel?
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/503/Udklip.PNG

On my setup I ran a hose from 2-3 with clamps and that was it. The photo showing the Vacuum tank I ran to the original B6 line just below the power steering reservoir. I need to take a pic. Your number one I ran to the evap line on the passenger side. Looks like you are missing the sensor for the charcoal canister also. That's what goes to the connector on circle one then run a hose from that to your charcoal canister connector. Now thats what I did. Sensor goes on that silver hook right next to the spot where you bolt it down above circle one.

[Bob Marley]

Is everyone here using just 1 rad fan? Or both?

I'm using the Stock B6 3.0 fans for my swap setup...ran the Ground trigger through the Lower Rad Temp Switch...temperature hits about 205f before BOTH fans kick on... this is fine normally but these hot summer days in traffic I decided to run a manual switch inside the car to trigger fans regardless of temp...Ususally as soon as I jump in

Now I can fire up Both fans at will & temps never climb ridiculously under hood...

Under Normal driving conditions i don't bother with it cuz the Lower temp switch seems adequate, but when it's dead hot & I'm running
a/c, stuck in traffic etc... I flip the switch!

On the downside However ....the way I have it currently wired I can't forget to switch it off when I shut off the car... otherwise it'll continuously run & drain the battery...

i could switch this setup to a relay at anytime once I settle on a way to trigger it ...just lazy

I think best is not to let temps get too high in the first place & then have to rely on the Stock fans to cool everything down...at that point I do believe the Stock fans+Lower Temp switch combo is outmatched.
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[blitz2190]

you could always put the second one on a separate relay triggered by the same output, that way you know it will be fine, also I may have found a lower temp replacement just trying to find a pic of the pins to see if it will just drop in.

*Edit

never mind it has a different plug, but for those interested, it looks like the groove around the base above the hex head(if that makes sense) is the perfect shape to fit in the hose with the stock clamp like I did with the bmw switch. I'm going to see if I can find a plug to go with it as this switch would be worth a shot at 87 low and 93 high. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-meyle-parts/auxiliary-fan-switch-87-93c/701959481~mey/

just to add to this, if someone wants to go with the lower temp switch above, the plug part number is 701959481 and the pins are N90684505

[3 bar]

Making more progress on my parts list for the build over the weekend. Picked up the AC lines, the compressor, as well as the 6 speed crossmember. Still need the PS hose, S4 trans spacer, fuel return line and a drivers side axle. Going to try to mock everything up this weekend

[RKLamb]

Oil leak question. Oil is leaking from my valve cover bolts. I have replace all gaskets multiple times and as soon as I step on the gas you can see the oil pouring out of the bolts. New gaskets and torque to specified specs.

[blitz2190]

Sounds like your presurizing the crankcase and valve covers what is your pvc system? Stock? Has the prv valve been replaced?

[RKLamb]

Sounds like your presurizing the crankcase and valve covers what is your pvc system? Stock? Has the prv valve been replaced?

I have one of those silicone spider pvc systems. Also added a vented oil cap and oil catch can over the weekend. My setup is Stage 3 with Franks.

[ADCS]

Definitely sounds like a pressurized crank case.
Does it happen at idle when reving or only under load?
If it is happening at idle try pulling the oil cap off to see if that stops it.

Maybe a faulty PCV? When you say silicone PCV, is it a 034 silicone setup with their billet pcv valve? I had crank case pressure issues on my 1.8t because of their billet valve - the spring was too stiff however they fixed that issues years ago...

edit: stg3 franks with oem spider hose here. No oil seeping, leaking or burning.

[RKLamb]

Turn out to be two problems. My pancake valve is no good and I have a hairline crack in my valve cover. I could never see it before until I painted them. Smh.

[RKLamb]

My very last issue. I been fighting with the accelerator pedal not responding lately. I have replaced it with a new one and randomly it still goes out. When it goes out I can unplug the throttle body and as soon as I plug it back up it works or I can turn the car off then on again and it works. This started after I decided to wash it one day. I have cleaned connectors, replace the ecu, both the throttle and pedal and still the problem persist. I have even ohm meter each individual wire and they all passed. Any ideas.

[blitz2190]

Solid crimp or repinned connections on the white body plug? A loose wire or cold solder joint could cause this. Never solder automotive wires

[RKLamb]

I was thinking about replacing that white connector next. I believe mine are crimped.

[3 bar]

Does anybody have pics of the fuel return lines and how they attach to the tank? I pulled some lines from a 3.0 A4 for my 1.8t but couldn't drop the tank to get the lines past the fuel filter. I'm presuming that there are provisions on my 1.8t tank for the return and vent lines.

[AudiA4_20T]

Does anybody have pics of the fuel return lines and how they attach to the tank? I pulled some lines from a 3.0 A4 for my 1.8t but couldn't drop the tank to get the lines past the fuel filter. I'm presuming that there are provisions on my 1.8t tank for the return and vent lines.

Pull the back seat, there's a cap with 3 philips head screws.

[3 bar]

Pull the back seat, there's a cap with 3 philips head screws.

I'm sorry I got the supply line but there a two more not attached to the fuel pump

[Bob Marley]

I'm sorry I got the supply line but there a two more not attached to the fuel pump

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/fd453144644985e5856fd8ba0bf4505c.jpg


This is all I have from my 3.0 swap...

but you should have 1 short feed line with a few bends from pump to filter...then 1 long feed line from filter to engine

Then 1 long return line from pump/tank to engine (mine is custom 5/16 fuel line) or go the OEM route but i believe you'd have to drop the tank as the lines are pre bent...if you kink them trying to shove or snake them in they will stay kinked as they are made of plastic & cause issues later.

The 3rd line is a Evap line to vent the gas tank...that goes from tank to you're N80 valve in the engine bay passenger side iirc



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[Bob Marley]

Poor man's Cold Air intake[emoji15]

Sheet of aluminum sandwiched between Some Reflective insulation... total cost at Loews $28

Seems to work pretty well, IATs were pretty low the other night, only about 15-20 degrees above ambient... but then again it was a little cool out. + I found a way to make use of my old 3.0 Snorkle...when the hood is closed it should make a nice lil Ice Box pulling air from up front and down below.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/ed9841fac8e81e28b4a36acf51e272e5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/f2ba5d0472d4c4573917514e7420c0ec.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/5ffb36c01be6131e4c49f60f7a0d3719.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/b13600eb14940c7e5b1764b9c7f71394.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/eadb1b912a9d26b6d5e277de4fb45033.jpg

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[Ephry73]

Poor man's Cold Air intake[emoji15]

Sheet of aluminum sandwiched between Some Reflective insulation... total cost at Loews $28

Seems to work pretty well, IATs were pretty low the other night, only about 15-20 degrees above ambient... but then again it was a little cool out. + I found a way to make use of my old 3.0 Snorkle...when the hood is closed it should make a nice lil Ice Box pulling air from up front and down below.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/ed9841fac8e81e28b4a36acf51e272e5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/f2ba5d0472d4c4573917514e7420c0ec.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/5ffb36c01be6131e4c49f60f7a0d3719.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/b13600eb14940c7e5b1764b9c7f71394.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/eadb1b912a9d26b6d5e277de4fb45033.jpg

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[emoji106][emoji108][emoji106][emoji108]


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[Midnightblkb5]

Poor man's Cold Air intake[emoji15]

Sheet of aluminum sandwiched between Some Reflective insulation... total cost at Loews $28

Seems to work pretty well, IATs were pretty low the other night, only about 15-20 degrees above ambient... but then again it was a little cool out. + I found a way to make use of my old 3.0 Snorkle...when the hood is closed it should make a nice lil Ice Box pulling air from up front and down below.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/ed9841fac8e81e28b4a36acf51e272e5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/f2ba5d0472d4c4573917514e7420c0ec.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/5ffb36c01be6131e4c49f60f7a0d3719.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/b13600eb14940c7e5b1764b9c7f71394.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/eadb1b912a9d26b6d5e277de4fb45033.jpg

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[emoji1433][emoji1433][emoji1433]


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[3 bar]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170810/fd453144644985e5856fd8ba0bf4505c.jpg


This is all I have from my 3.0 swap...

but you should have 1 short feed line with a few bends from pump to filter...then 1 long feed line from filter to engine

Then 1 long return line from pump/tank to engine (mine is custom 5/16 fuel line) or go the OEM route but i believe you'd have to drop the tank as the lines are pre bent...if you kink them trying to shove or snake them in they will stay kinked as they are made of plastic & cause issues later.

The 3rd line is a Evap line to vent the gas tank...that goes from tank to you're N80 valve in the engine bay passenger side iirc



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Hey thanks I'll have to go back and see if I can pull them through. I was looking at another one in the yard today and noticed that there were two access covers I'm presuming since it is a saddle tank one is a transfer hose

[Bob Marley]

Hey thanks I'll have to go back and see if I can pull them through. I was looking at another one in the yard today and noticed that there were two access covers I'm presuming since it is a saddle tank one is a transfer hoseAre you upgrading you're fuel pump?

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[groundup]

I got a question about the transmission

I am doing the swap on my fwd b6 automatic, its really hard to find a b6 fwd transmission for my car but relatively easy to find b5 passats with the manual transmission both 1.8t or v6

Would the b5 passat transmission work on the b6? I want to keep this car fwd

[blitz2190]

will they bolt up? yes, as for the flanges and axles I have no idea which ones you will need but my guess is it can, and likely has been done, any transmission you can swap into a 1.8/2.8/3.0/4.2 b6/b7 etc will work, it doesn't have to be 2.7 specific.

[tankdeer]

If you really wanted to keep it FWD (not sure why unless you're just building a burnout machine), I would get an 01X out of a later B6 or B7.

[blitz2190]

this ^, your going to go no where really fast and eat through front tires with anything more than stock power. find a wrecked b6 manual quattro for cheap and pull the drivetrain and tank, I picked up a whole 02 3.0 six speed for $600

[tankdeer]

whole as in whole vehicle? The 01e alone is worth that much. [up]

[blitz2190]

whole as in whole vehicle? The 01e alone is worth that much. [up]

yup, wrecked front end with a running 3.0, sold the engine for $100 minus the harness ecu and a/c bits. sold other various bits for another $100 so $400 for a full 6 speed swap.

[tankdeer]

yup, wrecked front end with a running 3.0, sold the engine for $100 minus the harness ecu and a/c bits. sold other various bits for another $100 so $400 for a full 6 speed swap.

Ha ha, that's rad

[Midnightblkb5]

there is 2 b6 s4 part outs going on in the b6 owners group on FB. two full 0A3 swaps one in black 500 for swap and 1 in silver 600 for swap. axles and all


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[MRCT]

Just a question if say i can get a 2.7t along with tranny for 1500.. is it worth it? As far as i know the motor needs a rebuild so wouldnt be plug n play.. which means 1500 only gets me ownership of the motor and tranny it wont be running which means more money.. how much more? U guys have a rough estimate

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[blitz2190]

I don't know the market down there, but I can get a running engine for under $500. But the 01e always gets a good price. that said its not a huge amount and around the average of what most pay for the swap, the thing to keep in mind is you will need to swap the output flanges to use the 3.0 axles, supposedly the b5 axles work, the few times I tried they did not fit right and seems to be over extended. you will also need a matching rear diff from a b6/b7, if you have an auto b6 chances are you already have the right rear end. if not you can use the output flanges from the rear end to convert the 01e to work with the b6 02 3.0 axles. All that said I would offer maybe $1200 since the engine needs a rebuild, I wouldn't pay more than that personally.

[maxnik2003]

Just got my harness from Clint and looks good. Thank you Clint, for your work and support!....now the time to remove IMMO from the donors ECU. Anyone in Toronto area?
http://imgur.com/dou1WGg
http://imgur.com/gqRnXEY

[blitz2190]

Just got my harness from Clint and looks good. Thank you Clint, for your work and support!....now the time to remove IMMO from the donors ECU. Anyone in Toronto area?
http://imgur.com/dou1WGg
http://imgur.com/gqRnXEY

you can do it yourself if you feel comfortable, nefmoto has a guide, alternatively whats the ecu part number? I may have a spare ecu I can trade you with an m-box flash (I'll have to check) and I'll take care of the immo of the one you send later.

[ADCS]

Where in Toronto? Send me a PM.

It's not hard to do, just tedius.
On mine I retained IMMO and paired it with the cluster. I also have an ecu we could swap with.

[blitz2190]

missed that toronto bit, take ADCS up on his offer shipping would kill it for me.

[maxnik2003]

Where in Toronto? Send me a PM.

It's not hard to do, just tedius.
On mine I retained IMMO and paired it with the cluster. I also have an ecu we could swap with.

Woodbridge.PM sent

[AudiA4_20T]

Just got my harness from Clint and looks good. Thank you Clint, for your work and support!....now the time to remove IMMO from the donors ECU. Anyone in Toronto area?
http://imgur.com/dou1WGg
http://imgur.com/gqRnXEY

NP, it's not pretty but it works!

[GearHead7]

Hey Clint & fellow audizine members, maybe you guys can help me,
I just posted a thread in B6 section titled, "New build Recommendations" and I have decided to go 2.7T swap. Now with that being my decision, I am kind of lost as to which 2.7T to go with.
Do I go with the twin turbo 2.7, or the single turbo? I do plan on going stage 3 with big turbo eventually as well.
I guess my question is- giving that my ultimate goal is to eventually make it a 10 sec car, would I be better off with the single turbo or the twin? What are most 2.7 swappers going with and why?
I plan on buying the motor tonight so, "too single turbo or twin turbo, thee is the question?"
Thanks.-
Also I read the first page guide- but given that I'm trying to peak into the 10's with my build, is there a difference in the fuel deliver systems between the yrs 2000-2005 2.7T?
Does any of the generations or the years offer an advantage over another? Maybe such as forged rods, fuel, oil pumps? Since I'm buying now, I would like to ensure I can get any advantage as possible to reach my goal.
Thanks guys.

[AudiA4_20T]

Hey Clint & fellow audizine members, maybe you guys can help me,
I just posted a thread in B6 section titled, "New build Recommendations" and I have decided to go 2.7T swap. Now with that being my decision, I am kind of lost as to which 2.7T to go with.
Do I go with the twin turbo 2.7, or the single turbo? I do plan on going stage 3 with big turbo eventually as well.
I guess my question is- giving that my ultimate goal is to eventually make it a 10 sec car, would I be better off with the single turbo or the twin? What are most 2.7 swappers going with and why?
I plan on buying the motor tonight so, "too single turbo or twin turbo, thee is the question?"
Thanks.-
Also I read the first page guide- but given that I'm trying to peak into the 10's with my build, is there a difference in the fuel deliver systems between the yrs 2000-2005 2.7T?
Does any of the generations or the years offer an advantage over another? Maybe such as forged rods, fuel, oil pumps? Since I'm buying now, I would like to ensure I can get any advantage as possible to reach my goal.
Thanks guys.

I would do a 2000-2002 engine. Those ECUs are much more common. Haven't seen a single turbo car run 10s yet. While they are powerful, that's not always the name of the game at the track. I'd do some K24 hybrids and rods.

[blitz2190]

I would do a 2000-2002 engine. Those ECUs are much more common. Haven't seen a single turbo car run 10s yet. While they are powerful, that's not always the name of the game at the track. I'd do some K24 hybrids and rods.

to add to this, try and get a "BF" block (stamped on the passenger side in the valley of the engine, late apb engines and bel engines are bf) as they are stronger to start with, internals are all the same on apb engines, I would suggest an a6 as they tend to be cheaper, plentiful, and typically less beat on, you can also flash the a6 ecu's with the s4 tunes.

Edit* also clint the thread in the b6 s4 section reminded me today, in your first post you should put up a warning about coding the ABS module before pulling everything if going from an auto to a manual.

[eljay]

So, I was secretly hoping to score a 2.7T engine locally, but it has been ripped apart for hoses parts and such... I'm sad. I guess I gotta wait for that wrecked A6/Allroad to come around nearby at some point. [:(]

[GearHead7]

So, I was secretly hoping to score a 2.7T engine locally, but it has been ripped apart for hoses parts and such... I'm sad. I guess I gotta wait for that wrecked A6/Allroad to come around nearby at some point. [:(]

I came across one locally, it too was tore up... I have the money saved for my build and I have been waiting a long while to pull the trigger, so Im just going to go ahead and order a crate engine on ebay and have it shipped. Goodluck to ya.

[GearHead7]

to add to this, try and get a "BF" block (stamped on the passenger side in the valley of the engine, late apb engines and bel engines are bf) as they are stronger to start with, internals are all the same on apb engines, I would suggest an a6 as they tend to be cheaper, plentiful, and typically less beat on, you can also flash the a6 ecu's with the s4 tunes.

Edit* also clint the thread in the b6 s4 section reminded me today, in your first post you should put up a warning about coding the ABS module before pulling everything if going from an auto to a manual.

I will try to look for a BF block- thing is, its hard to get conformation on all the little details when ordering from engine warehouses from Canada- But thanks for the tip- exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Ill ask the store for help on it.

What kind of miles are you guys buying the 2.7T on it? Every year they get older n older, therefore more likely to be way higher on miles. Im shooting to hopefully find one with at or under 75k miles. What you think?

[GearHead7]

Hey Clint- I keep reading your first page but Im not quite understanding why you keep suggesting to "buy an 2000-2002" I get that they do not feature the immobilizers.
But what does that exactly mean for me? Can I buy an 2000-02' motor, and then buy lets say an 04' wiring harness, and an 03' ECU? Or do I need to purchase the same ECU, Harness, and engine from the same year? Or does it have to be the same vehicle? Can you or someone else help explain what harness, ECU, & motor go with what years if I purchase all separate?
Thanks for the insight- sorry for being a lil slow here, so much info in this thread, its almost counter intuitive to go through 70+ pages to find one comment with the answer that you have already provided.

[ADCS]

Generally speaking....

99-02 are APB engines from an A6 or S4 are Motronic 7.1 ECUs (No IMMO. Tuning is plentiful for these ECUs. A lot more 'cheap' tuner options.)
03-04 are BEL engines from an A6 / Allroad with Motronic 7.1.1 ECU (IMMO (can be good or bad), B6 style coil on plug, slightly different exhaust housing on (stock) turbos (AUTO only), 'stronger' block, less tuning support from the little guys)

ME7.1 and ME7.1.1. harnesses and ECU are NOT compatible as-is.
The later year BEL engines will likely have less mileage and abuse on them.


Also... ALL 2.7ts are twin-turbo when STOCK so unless you are buying an already built setup you do not need to choose between single/twin when buying the engine.

[GearHead7]

Generally speaking....

99-02 are APB engines from an A6 or S4 are Motronic 7.1 ECUs (No IMMO. Tuning is plentiful for these ECUs. A lot more 'cheap' tuner options.)
03-04 are BEL engines from an A6 / Allroad with Motronic 7.1.1 ECU (IMMO (can be good or bad), B6 style coil on plug, slightly different exhaust housing on (stock) turbos (AUTO only), 'stronger' block, less tuning support from the little guys)

ME7.1 and ME7.1.1. harnesses and ECU are NOT compatible as-is.
The later year BEL engines will likely have less mileage and abuse on them.


Also... ALL 2.7ts are twin-turbo when STOCK so unless you are buying an already built setup you do not need to choose between single/twin when buying the engine.

So with that being said- I need to use the same engine harness, ECU, and motor from the same year/gen 2000-02 - and 03-04.
Also, given that I had a good option to pick up an 03' BEL motor with lower miles on it, should I? I have one at my local junkyard with 160k miles- not low but not over 200k. Or would I really be that much better off just waiting for an APB?
Or perhaps just buying one in the cheaper side w/higher miles and putting the extra money towards a rebuild?

[blitz2190]

you can use the apb harness and ecu on a bel you just cant use an apb ecu with a bel harness or vise versa, you will need icm's and coil packs or you can convert to the fsi coil. the bel blocks are all bf blocks so thats a plus. The 2.7 is a strong engine and there are plenty of high mileage good running examples, hell someone in the b5 section went stage 3 at like 300k miles. All depends on the maintenance, the two I bought for myself were around 130k (one was 120 and the other I was told was around 130 ish but I built it so it didn't matter).

[GearHead7]

you can use the apb harness and ecu on a bel you just cant use an apb ecu with a bel harness or vise versa, you will need icm's and coil packs or you can convert to the fsi coil. the bel blocks are all bf blocks so thats a plus. The 2.7 is a strong engine and there are plenty of high mileage good running examples, hell someone in the b5 section went stage 3 at like 300k miles. All depends on the maintenance, the two I bought for myself were around 130k (one was 120 and the other I was told was around 130 ish but I built it so it didn't matter).

If the BEL gens are BF blocks than it would seem to me that would be better than the 2000-02' APB motors, considering that the BEL are going to be newer, they will more likely be lower mileage as well. The only negative I could say is that ADCS stated that the aftermarket tuning for it isn't as prevalent- but if I can use the APB gen ECU, then that would allow me to get a tune for the earlier years, correct?- Considering that the ECU is what gets tune anyhow.
It seems to me, that the BEL would be the best option to go with considering these factors, I do not understand why Clint stated the other way around in his opening comment?

The only drawback I can see, would be the immobilizer- and I`m not sure what that means or what you meant by "ICM`s"?
Can you please enlighten me on what I have stated in the above and give me a brief description of the immobilizer and what it means for me if I go BEL?
Thanks Blitz, Clint, ADCS- & everyone else helping me along here and my other thread.

[blitz2190]

If the BEL gens are BF blocks than it would seem to me that would be better than the 2000-02' APB motors, considering that the BEL are going to be newer, they will more likely be lower mileage as well. The only negative I could say is that ADCS stated that the aftermarket tuning for it isn't as prevalent- but if I can use the APB gen ECU, then that would allow me to get a tune for the earlier years, correct?- Considering that the ECU is what gets tune anyhow.
It seems to me, that the BEL would be the best option to go with considering these factors, I do not understand why Clint stated the other way around in his opening comment?

The only drawback I can see, would be the immobilizer- and I`m not sure what that means or what you meant by "ICM`s"?
Can you please enlighten me on what I have stated in the above and give me a brief description of the immobilizer and what it means for me if I go BEL?
Thanks Blitz, Clint, ADCS- & everyone else helping me along here and my other thread.

the apb ecu needs the apb harness to go with it. you cannot use the apb ecu with the harness that comes with the bel, clint says the apb is better in the the post because at the time it was easier more available and had more available tuning. there are some that tune the bel now but you'll have many more options with the apb. If you use an apb ecu and harness you don't have to worry about the immo. if you use the bel ecu you will need to have the immo defeated or adapted and this will need to be done with a bench flasher with the ecu in boot mode the first time if its not paired with the correct key and cluster. after it can be remotely tuned. also you may need the apb headers for aftermarket turbos if not going single, its has been said they are slightly different. now that may or may not matter since you'll have to modify the down pipes anyways so you may be able to get around that.

[GearHead7]

Wow thanks Blitz- this was externallly helpful- I'm going to go with BEL gen motor and pick up a APB engine harness and ECU- this will allow me to retain the BF block, as well as not having to worry about dealing with the immobilizer, correct? This will also allow me to take advantage of the more supportive tuning avaible for the earlier APB gen. If worse comes to worse during my build that I need to change out the exhaust manifold then I'm not too worried about it.
Does this sound about right?
Thanks Blitz.
The only concern I have now is- will a APB exhaust manifold w/turbos fit perfectly on a BEL & are you absolutely sure that The APB Harness & ECU will function properly on a BEL motor?

[ADCS]

the apb ecu needs the apb harness to go with it. you cannot use the apb ecu with the harness that comes with the bel, clint says the apb is better in the the post because at the time it was easier more available and had more available tuning. there are some that tune the bel now but you'll have many more options with the apb. If you use an apb ecu and harness you don't have to worry about the immo. if you use the bel ecu you will need to have the immo defeated or adapted and this will need to be done with a bench flasher with the ecu in boot mode the first time if its not paired with the correct key and cluster. after it can be remotely tuned. also you may need the apb headers for aftermarket turbos if not going single, its has been said they are slightly different. now that may or may not matter since you'll have to modify the down pipes anyways so you may be able to get around that.

No need to change headers. It is the turbo exhaust housings that are different on the BEL (auto only). Exhaust manifolds are the same as APB. I had zero issues fitting frankenturbos on my BEL exhaust manifolds even tho i specd them as B5 S4 6spd.

[ADCS]

Wow thanks Blitz- this was externallly helpful- I'm going to go with BEL gen motor and pick up a APB engine harness and ECU- this will allow me to retain the BF block, as well as not having to worry about dealing with the immobilizer, correct? This will also allow me to take advantage of the more supportive tuning avaible for the earlier APB gen. If worse comes to worse during my build that I need to change out the exhaust manifold then I'm not too worried about it.
Does this sound about right?
Thanks Blitz.
The only concern I have now is- will a APB exhaust manifold w/turbos fit perfectly on a BEL & are you absolutely sure that The APB Harness & ECU will function properly on a BEL motor?

There are less BEL tunes for low cost. There are still plenty of BEL tuners out there you will just need to select a good tuner (ie more money than some random guy off the forums offering tunes.)

Either way, APB or BEL, dont skimp on the tune. You will put all your time and money into the build and it will be for nothing with a sub-par tune.

p.s. I have a BEL with the BEL ecu/harness. Tuned by Bische and it is absolutely fantastic.

[blitz2190]

there you go ^, I didn't know Bische did bel's but it doesn't surprise me hes a wizard with me7's and who I've asked to tune my stk when I get around to building it.

[GearHead7]

Kk well what I was shooting for was after I install the motor drive it to ensure reliability and function correctly, and then running a cheap stage 2 file from either APR, or JDM if they have one- if not some other commercial file, so I have some power to enjoy until I put together my Big Turbo stage 3 hardware - with meth injection, and either 100 octane- or E-85 if possible and bigger fuel injectors and fuel rail, high flowing FMIC -so the final build will need a custom tuner which I plan on paying more for through a reputable tuner.
Who is Bische? A forum member?

[AudiA4_20T]

to add to this, try and get a "BF" block (stamped on the passenger side in the valley of the engine, late apb engines and bel engines are bf) as they are stronger to start with, internals are all the same on apb engines, I would suggest an a6 as they tend to be cheaper, plentiful, and typically less beat on, you can also flash the a6 ecu's with the s4 tunes.

Edit* also clint the thread in the b6 s4 section reminded me today, in your first post you should put up a warning about coding the ABS module before pulling everything if going from an auto to a manual.

So while this is true, I think it's been blown out of proportion. Unless you're making insane hp I doubt this would ever come up, and since all B5s had APB motors, plenty of them have been running earlier blocks with big power.

[GearHead7]

I need some help and asap guys- I have 2 Motors lined up- 1st is a 2002 Allroad 107k miles and the block was produced 9/28/2001 (not sure if it's BF or not- the vehicle is an automatic transmission as well and comes with the harness.
The second motor is a 2003 Audi Allraod, 117k miles no accessories and is to an automatic trans as well. This one is 200$ more than the 02' with less miles.
Which one? Is the BFblock worth the extra $? Esp because I plan on going big turbo on this build pushing the engolope on a stock block. So to me it seems worth it- but you guys have the experience.
I also need to know if the automatics will hook up to my manual GVE bell housing trans that's in my B7 A4. Because I really do not want to swap out transmissions if I do not have too. Thanks.

[blitz2190]

While I did say the bf block is stronger I agree with clint unless your going for over 800whp you'll be fine, there are a few good examples of non bf blocks in the 700whp range which is what I am shooting for and mine is a non bf. so its really up to you, yes it will hook up with the gve

[replica_rs4]

Just picked up b7 s4 avant . swapping my 3l tial 770. link thunder. 01e in to it.
Will have a lot of questions.

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[replica_rs4]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170823/daa219092bc2f43310c254bcc3ee8598.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170823/813596cbca0f55bfd3fafe42ce2d7e17.jpg

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[AudiA4_20T]

hell yeah.

[replica_rs4]

Few questions while I'm making parts list.
Can I use 4.2 fans with 3.2 rad support
I'm going with 2.7 rad can I also use 2.7 condenser?
Which motor mounts i use b5 or b7
Which transmission mounting setup is stronger ? B5 01e with DTS bar or b6 01e
I'm sure some of this was already covered , I apologize thread is getting quiet long to keep going thru it.
Also I'm looking for following parts . please pm me if you have

3.2 ac dryer and all associated hoses
3.2 ac compressor
3.2 rad fans
3.2 rad support
3.0 engine mount brackets
3.0 3.2 ac compressor bracket
B6 01e drive shaft

Thank you


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[b7_Andy]

B5 and B7 motor mounts are the same


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[blitz2190]

Few questions while I'm making parts list.
Can I use 4.2 fans with 3.2 rad support
I'm going with 2.7 rad can I also use 2.7 condenser?
Which motor mounts i use b5 or b7
Which transmission mounting setup is stronger ? B5 01e with DTS bar or b6 01e
I'm sure some of this was already covered , I apologize thread is getting quiet long to keep going thru it.
Also I'm looking for following parts . please pm me if you have

3.2 ac dryer and all associated hoses
3.2 ac compressor
3.2 rad fans
3.2 rad support
3.0 engine mount brackets
3.0 3.2 ac compressor bracket
B6 01e drive shaft

Thank you


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use a b6 1.8/3.0 condenser so the lines fit correctly, the 4.2 fans can be used but may need some trimming, not sure on the 3.2 compressor but a 1.8 and 3.0 fit with the 3.0 bracket. the b6 01e is stronger supposedly with the flex shaft and also has more desirable gearing for acceleration.

[jbain2]

use a b6 1.8/3.0 condenser so the lines fit correctly, the 4.2 fans can be used but may need some trimming, not sure on the 3.2 compressor but a 1.8 and 3.0 fit with the 3.0 bracket. the b6 01e is stronger supposedly with the flex shaft and also has more desirable gearing for acceleration.

The gearing on the 0A3 is nice for higher revving applications (bigger turbos, head work, etc). I also find the gearbox nicer. The 01E is a notorious slop box (works just fine however).


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[replica_rs4]

Thanx for all the replies. Well aware that 03a is a nicer box. I have a custom built custom ratio 01e with b5 case. I'm gonna see if I can switch to b6 case if its not too late.

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[replica_rs4]

That 03a will be for sale once its out of car.

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[replica_rs4]

Just messaged my gearbox guy to see if not too late to switch to b6 case .

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[replica_rs4]

use a b6 1.8/3.0 condenser so the lines fit correctly, the 4.2 fans can be used but may need some trimming, not sure on the 3.2 compressor but a 1.8 and 3.0 fit with the 3.0 bracket. the b6 01e is stronger supposedly with the flex shaft and also has more desirable gearing for acceleration.
I'm only interested in mounting solution b5 vs b6 . which one would have less drivetrains slop . b5 mounts with DTS or b6 mounts. Inside is all custom so flex shaft and gearing is irrelevant . can I even use a DTS bar with b5 tranny on b7
Thanx

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[blitz2190]

same case, all you need is the b6 output flanges which can be taken from a b6 and possible b7 rear end or from the current transmission. also jbain2 notice I said acceleration, I'll have to look at the gear ratio but the b6 3.0 01e has shorter gears than the b5 s4, the 0a3 is definatley stout though and much better shifting stock.

[GearHead7]

I ended buying the 2.7T motor today, I went with an 03` BEL out of an A6 with 110k miles, I paid $850- The motor did come equipped with the turbos, motor harness, ECU, and just about everything else short of the main accessories- I believe a power steering pump & alternator. Anyhow, I was wondering what you guys think I should do to it while the motor is out. Perhaps the timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, water pump, valve cover gaskets, any other gasket that I should do that are prone to leaking?

[GearHead7]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170823/daa219092bc2f43310c254bcc3ee8598.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170823/813596cbca0f55bfd3fafe42ce2d7e17.jpg

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[eek] WHOA! It's so gorgeous- it's literally a work of art- it could just sit in the corner of of my garage and intimidate anyone thinking about going up against it lol.
How did you get it to clean up so flawlessly? Sandblasted? Good job.

[replica_rs4]

[eek] WHOA! It's so gorgeous- it's literally a work of art- it could just sit in the corner of of my garage and intimidate anyone thinking about going up against it lol.
How did you get it to clean up so flawlessly? Sandblasted? Good job.
Its a brand new engine . never been fired yet.

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[GearHead7]

Its a brand new engine . never been fired yet.

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how much did that costs?

[replica_rs4]

Anyone got a line on a b6 01e drive shaft. Checked every local salvage and eBay. No luck. Pm me please if you know where there is one. Otherwise my parts list is done.
Thanx

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[nefkntym]

They are not the easiest to find. You might want to hit up Scotty @ Advanced and get his driveshaft spacer.

[replica_rs4]

They are not the easiest to find. You might want to hit up Scotty @ Advanced and get his driveshaft spacer.
Which drive shaft would I use with spacer? 03a?

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[nefkntym]

He states that it is to go from your tip to manual. I think they are all standard lengths per car, getting in touch with him directly for specifics would be best. But he is in Corpus Christi, so it might be awhile.

[Steve Bassen]

Anyone got a line on a b6 01e drive shaft. Checked every local salvage and eBay. No luck. Pm me please if you know where there is one. Otherwise my parts list is done.
Thanx

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Check with Wolf Auto Parts?

[replica_rs4]

Check with Wolf Auto Parts?
Where is wolf autoparts? Google keeps bringing up local Wolfe Chevy dealer .

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[replica_rs4]

Could you guys confirm part # for 01e b6 center drive shaft 8E0521101 E

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[blitz2190]

not sure if its the same but mine is 8E0 521 101 D, which lists as the 6 speed one, side not not sure how accurate it is but a few sites also list that part number for the 1.8 and s4 six speeds as well.

[replica_rs4]

I assume you are running 01e?

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[blitz2190]

I assume you are running 01e?

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yeah, pulled all my parts from an 02 3.0

[replica_rs4]

Very interesting . there a lot of 8e0521101d listing for cheap. I'm gonna run b5 01e , that shouldn't matter thou.

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[blitz2190]

Very interesting . there a lot of 8e0521101d listing for cheap. I'm gonna run b5 01e , that shouldn't matter thou.

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the only difference between the b5 and b6 01e is the front output flanges (also gearing and flex shaft but not import as they both work), which you can pull from any b6 transmission or rear end. I think even the auto ones will work. Single bolt holding each and very easy to swap. And there could be a good amount as like I said they could also fit the s4 abd 1.8 six speeds (according to a few listings) but don't take my word on that, I always thought the 02 3.0 propshaft was one of a kind.

[replica_rs4]

Thats what I thought too. Well the drive shaft you are using is so cheap , totally worth a shot. Thank you

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[replica_rs4]

On a different topic . motor mount bracket do i need the bracket that bolts to the v of engine or engine bracket to frame ?

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[blitz2190]

Thats what I thought too. Well the drive shaft you are using is so cheap , totally worth a shot. Thank you

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hold off on buying that, I think I may have confused the ones I have as I have to many parts kicking around, going to check under my car today for you

[replica_rs4]

Sounds like a plan. Thank you so much.

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[ADCS]

Not sure if this helps...

02 3.0 TIP driveshaft and 04 1.8t 6spd (02X) driveshaft are the same.

Blitz you sure all 6spd driveshafts are the same...? I was under the impression the B6/7 S4 6spd 0A3 had a different driveshaft from the 02X (I will know shortly as I am doing an 02X -> 0A3 swap and will have all the parts including the 0A3 driveshaft soon).

[b7_Andy]

Not sure if this helps...

02 3.0 TIP driveshaft and 04 1.8t 6spd (02X) driveshaft are the same.

Blitz you sure all 6spd driveshafts are the same...? I was under the impression the B6/7 S4 6spd 0A3 had a different driveshaft from the 02X (I will know shortly as I am doing an 02X -> 0A3 swap and will have all the parts including the 0A3 driveshaft soon).

0A3 driveshaft is ~1 1/2" longer than the 02X driveshaft. I confirmed when I 0A3 swapped my B7. From what I've heard all B6/B7 A4 6-speed and auto driveshafts are the same length. Not sure if that includes the 01E B6 though.

[3 bar]

Do I need to?

[Matt Devo]

0A3 driveshaft is ~1 1/2" longer than the 02X driveshaft. I confirmed when I 0A3 swapped my B7. From what I've heard all B6/B7 A4 6-speed and auto driveshafts are the same length. Not sure if that includes the 01E B6 though.

02X and auto are the same, 0A3 and 01E are different (from each other and the 02X/auto)

[GearHead7]

http://i67.tinypic.com/wgp7xy.jpg

Well guys, I got my 2.7T delivered today, all in all shes in pretty good shape. I noticed that the block is kind of rusty, nothing major- just simple rust from the outer protective layer oxidizing and spreading a lil. So I want to go ahead and start pulling all external parts off- exhaust manifold/turbo, fuel lines, air manifold, front timing, valve covers, and pretty much try to strip her down to the block and heads, and do a good sanding on the block and re-spray it and bring her back to the gorgeous V-6 she is. Anyways, anything I should know? Perhaps to keep in mind breaking it down? My first time working on the 2.7 and Im just an enthusiast garage mechanic- I performed my own timing belt jobs and everything else on the 1.8T & 2.0T- Just thought I would ask for any advice?

[SoCal Ian]

Beautiful! What avenue did you travel in order to acquire this art piece?

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[Midnightblkb5]

http://i67.tinypic.com/wgp7xy.jpg

Well guys, I got my 2.7T delivered today, all in all shes in pretty good shape. I noticed that the block is kind of rusty, nothing major- just simple rust from the outer protective layer oxidizing and spreading a lil. So I want to go ahead and start pulling all external parts off- exhaust manifold/turbo, fuel lines, air manifold, front timing, valve covers, and pretty much try to strip her down to the block and heads, and do a good sanding on the block and re-spray it and bring her back to the gorgeous V-6 she is. Anyways, anything I should know? Perhaps to keep in mind breaking it down? My first time working on the 2.7 and Im just an enthusiast garage mechanic- I performed my own timing belt jobs and everything else on the 1.8T & 2.0T- Just thought I would ask for any advice?

do yourself a favor since you seem dedicated! replace all seals and gaskets. front and rear main seal, oil pump w/ chain and tensioner, cam chain tensioners, valley o rings, water pipe o rings, wp and t belt for starters. then replace every hose and vacuum line you come into contact with, also oil cooler gasket and oil dipstick o ring. trust me on this one


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[b7_Andy]

^ do as much as you can with the motor out. Changing all the gaskets listed above is not a bad idea. Working on these motors outside the car is actually pretty fun. But you will hate yourself if you try and do anything more than an oil change once the motor's in lol


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[GearHead7]

Yeah, I can't wait to get in their and start breaking it down. I keep thinking, (which is a never good idea) that I should just do a bottom rebuild with new springs, rings and most importantly forged rods. I mean if I come that far stripping down to block and head, I'm already their to pull the two also.
This motor is a project motor for me- I plan on not even putting it on my car for at least a year or so/I want to collect all the expensive stuff to go big on a big stage 3 build. Anyways- I just don't have the experience or precision measuring tools to reassemble a block- but I think that's the right move here.

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[Steve Bassen]

Where is wolf autoparts? Google keeps bringing up local Wolfe Chevy dealer .

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https://www.wolfautoparts.com/

[Ephry73]

do yourself a favor since you seem dedicated! replace all seals and gaskets. front and rear main seal, oil pump w/ chain and tensioner, cam chain tensioners, valley o rings, water pipe o rings, wp and t belt for starters. then replace every hose and vacuum line you come into contact with, also oil cooler gasket and oil dipstick o ring. trust me on this one


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Also ensure that the torque on the heads and manifolds and motor mounts is correct as well. Put some new motor mounts while
You're at it and ensure that the coolant piping to the back of the motor is correct and sealed right. These develop a small leak that is a pain to work on with the motor in the car.


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[ADCS]

do yourself a favor since you seem dedicated! replace all seals and gaskets. front and rear main seal, oil pump w/ chain and tensioner, cam chain tensioners, valley o rings, water pipe o rings, wp and t belt for starters. then replace every hose and vacuum line you come into contact with, also oil cooler gasket and oil dipstick o ring. trust me on this one


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^ do as much as you can with the motor out. Changing all the gaskets listed above is not a bad idea. Working on these motors outside the car is actually pretty fun. But you will hate yourself if you try and do anything more than an oil change once the motor's in lol


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^^ Top notch advise right here. Replace any gasket/seal/plastic part you touch when tearing it down. All coolant sensors are a good idea as well. Aux coolant pump as well if you plan on keeping it.


Yeah, I can't wait to get in their and start breaking it down. I keep thinking, (which is a never good idea) that I should just do a bottom rebuild with new springs, rings and most importantly forged rods. I mean if I come that far stripping down to block and head, I'm already their to pull the two also.
This motor is a project motor for me- I plan on not even putting it on my car for at least a year or so/I want to collect all the expensive stuff to go big on a big stage 3 build. Anyways- I just don't have the experience or precision measuring tools to reassemble a block- but I think that's the right move here.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

I would listen to your gut and put in rods if you have the time and $$$. I wish I did...right now I am getting close to the stock rod danger zone with plenty more left in the turbos and tune. [drive]

[blitz2190]

^^ Top notch advise right here. Replace any gasket/seal/plastic part you touch when tearing it down. All coolant sensors are a good idea as well. Aux coolant pump as well if you plan on keeping it.


I would listen to your gut and put in rods if you have the time and $$$. I wish I did...right now I am getting close to the stock rod danger zone with plenty more left in the turbos and tune. [drive]

http://gunnuts.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/danger-zone.jpg

lol, yeah its worth it if you plan on goig bigger, just be wary its not cheap. I would guess I have around $5k +- $1000(stopped counting to be honest) into my bottom end all machine work done, and everything new, including the vacuum lines and sensors, bearing, seals etc. Then you still need turbos, fueling, intercoolers etc, its adds up very quickly.

also to replica_rs4 I wasn't able to get on the lift last night but I will be tonight for an oil change so I'll have that part number.

[replica_rs4]

Not sure if this helps...

02 3.0 TIP driveshaft and 04 1.8t 6spd (02X) driveshaft are the same.

Blitz you sure all 6spd driveshafts are the same...? I was under the impression the B6/7 S4 6spd 0A3 had a different driveshaft from the 02X (I will know shortly as I am doing an 02X -> 0A3 swap and will have all the parts including the 0A3 driveshaft soon).
I might have to go for tip driveshaft and Scotty's spacer then. I'm pretty sure 02x driveshaft is the one with a D at end of part number and those are dime a dozen .

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[replica_rs4]

For those of you interested in 03A stuff mine will be for sale very soon. Gearbox , mounts , subframe , axles, driveshaft, shifter box and linkage .

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[tankdeer]

For those of you interested in 03A stuff mine will be for sale very soon. Gearbox , mounts , subframe , axles, driveshaft, shifter box and linkage .

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I may be interested in the driveshaft and axles, depending on price and shipping. Already have the rest

[replica_rs4]

I may be interested in the driveshaft and axles, depending on price and shipping. Already have the rest
I would love to try to sell as a kit first . as soon as my 01e is delivered from Scotty I will post everything up in classifieds .

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[tankdeer]

I would love to try to sell as a kit first . as soon as my 01e is delivered from Scotty I will post everything up in classifieds .

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Understandable. If you can't sell together and decide to break up, LMK. [up]

[eljay]

Have one of you 2.7T boys coming from a 1.8T kept the catback exhaust from 1.8T? I know the front section has to be changed/fabricated, but I am curious how the 2.7T sounds with one the popular 1.8T catbacks like Borla, AWE, Magnaflow etc. after adapting a front crosspipe to it.
Thanks if you can share some sound clips.

[ADCS]

My setup is a hacked up 1.8t Magnaflow 16601 from about mid car back. Unfortunately exhaust sound clips never seem to turn out....It's reasonably quiet while cruising around however it screams at WOT. Especially at the VVT changeover.

3" DPs.
2.5" HFCs.
Resonators + Magnaflow mufflers. I am not sure if the resonators were from the 16601 or not (bought a parts car with a 3.0 and the Magnaflow exhaust already hacked up).
I am going to be adding some electric cutouts soon.

[GearHead7]

Well thanks for all the great advice guys on what to replace, seems like- everything. lol. Im fine with that tho, since I know what my end goal is- which is a twin
GT2871R or the more common RS4. I would like to go with 800+cc fuel injectors, or 650cc if I can find a tuner that can tune for E-85, water/meth inject kit, FMIC, a good stage 2+ clutch kit, combined with a good a 100 and 93 octane tune if not the E-85 (im not sure if this can even be done-dont see why not tho?). I would hate to come this far and be helmed up on the bottom end.
Since I know this is where I want to be (low 10`s & eventually high 9's), I don`t mind doing as much prep work to ensure functionality with the mods I have chosen. Again, I plan on having the 2.7T out for the next year while I aquire as much used parts (turbos, FMIC,meth kit etc) as possible) and cleaning the motor up and doing the break down in the meantime. It not something Im pushing to have all done in a month or something.
Anyways, thanks again guys, and Im sure I will be having more questions then answers in this coming year for you guys haha.

[eljay]

My setup is a hacked up 1.8t Magnaflow 16601 from about mid car back. Unfortunately exhaust sound clips never seem to turn out....It's reasonably quiet while cruising around however it screams at WOT. Especially at the VVT changeover.

3" DPs.
2.5" HFCs.
Resonators + Magnaflow mufflers. I am not sure if the resonators were from the 16601 or not (bought a parts car with a 3.0 and the Magnaflow exhaust already hacked up).
I am going to be adding some electric cutouts soon.
Thanks!
I have a Borla on my 1.8T and love it, so if I ever join the swap club, I'd love to keep as much of it as possible and only change the front Y pipe to a crosspipe.

[replica_rs4]

Well thanks for all the great advice guys on what to replace, seems like- everything. lol. Im fine with that tho, since I know what my end goal is- which is a twin
GT2871R or the more common RS4. I would like to go with 800+cc fuel injectors, or 650cc if I can find a tuner that can tune for E-85, water/meth inject kit, FMIC, a good stage 2+ clutch kit, combined with a good a 100 and 93 octane tune if not the E-85 (im not sure if this can even be done-dont see why not tho?). I would hate to come this far and be helmed up on the bottom end.
Since I know this is where I want to be (low 10`s & eventually high 9's), I don`t mind doing as much prep work to ensure functionality with the mods I have chosen. Again, I plan on having the 2.7T out for the next year while I aquire as much used parts (turbos, FMIC,meth kit etc) as possible) and cleaning the motor up and doing the break down in the meantime. It not something Im pushing to have all done in a month or something.
Anyways, thanks again guys, and Im sure I will be having more questions then answers in this coming year for you guys haha.
If you go for e85 plan on bigger then 1000cc injectors and more then a stage 2 clutch . also if you plan on spending money on gt28 kit , just go single kit.

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[GearHead7]

If you go for e85 plan on bigger then 1000cc injectors and more then a stage 2 clutch . also if you plan on spending money on gt28 kit , just go single kit.

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I was looking into it- if I was going to spend the money for 2 of them- a single bigger turbo sounds more effiecent in terms of money and power.
Also I thought E85 was more combustible, therefore less is more. With 100 octane- a bigger injector is used to utilize more fuel, but from what I've been reading and researching E85 is more combustible and you would go smaller simply because it's going to give you more combustion gallon for gallon. Maybe not? Has anyone done an E85 tune here? I'm not sure if it's just wishful thinking?

[tankdeer]

Plenty of B5 guys have done e85

[replica_rs4]

You need bigger injectors for e85 then other fuel. E85 has less energy per volume but higher octane .

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[UkuRiSh]

My car did 6xx+ whp with ID1000 injectors and it was about 95%. Single Turbo 6266 at 26 psi

[s4ugenfast]

any suggestions on how to cap the evap line from the tank?

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[Midnightblkb5]

My car did 6xx+ whp with ID1000 injectors and it was about 95%. Single Turbo 6266 at 26 psi

where have you been hiding? how is the s5? tuned it yet


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[Humbledrew34]

Next mod


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[blitz2190]

any suggestions on how to cap the evap line from the tank?

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Don't, run it to the n80 valve like its suppose to be. Otherwise you'll get codes unless its coded out.

[ADCS]

Don't, run it to the n80 valve like its suppose to be. Otherwise you'll get codes unless its coded out.

This. You should have three lines going to the engine from the tank: Fuel feed. Fuel return. EVAP.

If you mean the vent line found on some B6's, not the EVAP, then switch to an early 3.0 tank cap (passenger side) since it does not have the vent.

Or you can just use anything to block it air tight...or melt the plastic line shut with a lighter. Obviously do this off the car far away from fuel and make sure there is no fuel or vapour still in the line !!

[Spike00513]

This. You should have three lines going to the engine from the tank: Fuel feed. Fuel return. EVAP.

If you mean the vent line found on some B6's, not the EVAP, then switch to an early 3.0 tank cap (passenger side) since it does not have the vent.

Or you can just use anything to block it air tight...or melt the plastic line shut with a lighter. Obviously do this off the car far away from fuel and make sure there is no fuel or vapour still in the line !!

Today I learned early 3.0 has ventless fuel tank cap.
Never did figure out if there are variants for other caps. I heard one part number R8 oil cap has a vent, and the other does not.
I only replaced my tattered oil cap seal so far (rubber), not the cap itself.
And the R8 one, although good-looking, is expensive.
I think people also use Porsche oil cap which doesn't look bad; not sure if that also has any variation of vented versus not, and if a vented oil cap helps take strain off a PCV system.
Not sure why, if it's for pollution. Maybe easier venting out through an oil cap but that goes into the environment. Whereas both engines probably still use crankcase ventilation, to vent through the back and into intake. To be re-ingested by engine intake, oily air.

Unless even more extra steps are taken to separate that oily air into clean air, and draining oil back into sump.

Kind of off-topic.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrvciHy2wD8

[S4iowa]

Just got my 2.7t swap started.. concerned about my expansion tank... I'm using my 3.0L expansion tank and decided to cap off that small port towards the back there near the fire wall as the 2.7t has no plumbing back to the water system there .. are there any negatives to doing this? ... Will the tank still circulate and relieve pressure as intended... or should I just pick up and 2.7t Expansion tank? What did you guys use?

Thanks guyshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170512/0a2d9e16f553f56557b58b6a273f0981.jpg

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Use the B6 1.8T tank. The hoses match up perfectly

https://i.imgur.com/RFlwzTO.jpg

[GearHead7]

More suggestions for people that have been down this road- I've got my 2.7T broken down, and got some parts in the mail already, timing belt, water pump, serpitine belt, valvecover gaskets, new hardware bolt, main seal, a few other things.
I was planning on putting IEforged rods in simply they are the cheapest for the quality, but is there any other component I should change out? Forged pistons? Is that unnecessary?
Also I'm starting to look into the best forced induction setup- I've found twin 60mm turbos would be awsome since I have a good lead on a pair for a decent price- but I'm thinking now the inlets/piping for twins to a inter cooler or two side mounts and back to the TB is going to take up a lot of precious and limited real estate in the engine bay. This motor is just so big in the b6/B7 chasis. Now I'm thinking single turbofor the convienence factor. Just something appealing about twin 60mm. Thoughts?

[ADCS]

Depends on your peak as well as average power goals, intent of car, where/how you will drive it.

Single is significantly better from a maintenance/plumbing point of view. Depending on the size it will be laggy...same goes for large twins obviously.

[JB5]

Use the B6 1.8T tank. The hoses match up perfectly

https://i.imgur.com/RFlwzTO.jpg

I used my 3.0 tank. Instead of using a T coming from the main hose (prone to braking), and simplify the hoses, I connected the hose that comes from the back of the head to the port you have capped.

[AudiA4_20T]

More suggestions for people that have been down this road- I've got my 2.7T broken down, and got some parts in the mail already, timing belt, water pump, serpitine belt, valvecover gaskets, new hardware bolt, main seal, a few other things.
I was planning on putting IEforged rods in simply they are the cheapest for the quality, but is there any other component I should change out? Forged pistons? Is that unnecessary?
Also I'm starting to look into the best forced induction setup- I've found twin 60mm turbos would be awsome since I have a good lead on a pair for a decent price- but I'm thinking now the inlets/piping for twins to a inter cooler or two side mounts and back to the TB is going to take up a lot of precious and limited real estate in the engine bay. This motor is just so big in the b6/B7 chasis. Now I'm thinking single turbofor the convienence factor. Just something appealing about twin 60mm. Thoughts?

Pistons aren't needed unless you want to go 3.0 or 600+whp.

[Spike00513]

Use the B6 1.8T tank. The hoses match up perfectly

https://i.imgur.com/RFlwzTO.jpg

Nice side cover. Wonder if it fits 1.8T. Will look it up.
Just replaced my coolant reservoir. It was like half the price of a 3L one, which different and has an extra piece for 3L cover to fit onto.

And it doesn't have that side cut-out for intercooler hose.

http://images55.fotki.com/v507/photos/1/110342/3104889/EngineCoversDriverSide-vi.jpg

[Droo]

Hey, I'm very interested in this swap but the problem is I'm from Europe and my B6 has 2.5 TDI V6 right now with a dead VP44 pump. I wonder if it would be any more difficult to swap because of that or no, also I would like to keep my ZF auto. Anyone have any clues if it'll bolt up? I can even get a '00 A6 2.7T with no tranny for 550 euros right now, I could just buy it and figure it out by myself but I don't wanna waste money if it's not gonna work without getting custom plates etc. Any europeans who done such a swap?

[blitz2190]

Yes it will bolt up, I have no idea if the wiring is the same for a 2.5, and as far as auto goes as long as the body is an auto the wiring between the auto and manual is only a few wires on the body plugs, no one has attempted it yet but it should work, the you only shares a few wires, most of the communication is over canbus. The real question is would you need a b5 tcu or would the one from the b6 work.

[jettin123]

Hey all, I finally got my b6 2.7t ready to start and when cranking the starter seems very slow, almost as if it doesn't have proper power. The battery is less than a year old and has 12.6 volts. I also decided to put a battery charger on it to up the volts a little and nothing changed. This was a week or so ago, well I went to try to look into it more today and the battery is dead, 1.08 volts.

I was thinking it was a bad starter but with the battery being drained down I'm thinking wires might not be correct or something?

[Ephry73]

Hey all, I finally got my b6 2.7t ready to start and when cranking the starter seems very slow, almost as if it doesn't have proper power. The battery is less than a year old and has 12.6 volts. I also decided to put a battery charger on it to up the volts a little and nothing changed. This was a week or so ago, well I went to try to look into it more today and the battery is dead, 1.08 volts.

I was thinking it was a bad starter but with the battery being drained down I'm thinking wires might not be correct or something?

Check to see if you're ground is loose. ??


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[Ephry73]

Have a dumb question for the smart ones on this post. What would be the absolute best radiator cooling setup for this swap? Currently have the 3.0 rad with stock dan assembly and no front pusher fan. The mechanical fan was also removed. I feel the car is running on the hotter side. It has been like that from day one though. I've seen these eBay all aluminum 1.8t radiators go for almost nothing and they look like they'll do that part and maybe upgrade the thermostat on the next belt change? Rambling.


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[GearHead7]

Quick question for the folks who've gone done this road- I'm tearing my 2.7T apart to the block to rebuild using forged components.
So my question is to separate the heads from the block which should I do first in proper order. Do I go for the timing belt, and pull the tensioner, water pump first? And then move onto the valve covers, cams,? I guess since I'm rebuilding the whole motor, does it really matter if I let the cams and crank go out of time? Thanks guys. Perhaps, a DIY thread? I'm thinking the timing doesn't matter at this stage- and I can just rip whatever out first, I just wanted to run it by u guys real quick to be sure.

[blitz2190]

Have a dumb question for the smart ones on this post. What would be the absolute best radiator cooling setup for this swap? Currently have the 3.0 rad with stock dan assembly and no front pusher fan. The mechanical fan was also removed. I feel the car is running on the hotter side. It has been like that from day one though. I've seen these eBay all aluminum 1.8t radiators go for almost nothing and they look like they'll do that part and maybe upgrade the thermostat on the next belt change? Rambling.


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the 3.0 will be your biggest oem capacity. what are you triggering your fan with? the stock s4 switch may be a bit to hot for some people in some areas as its meant to come on if the mechanical fan can't keep up. I posted a lower temp switch somewhere in this thread but I'll try and find it again, personally I used a modified bmw one that has a lower temp.

[ADCS]

Have a dumb question for the smart ones on this post. What would be the absolute best radiator cooling setup for this swap? Currently have the 3.0 rad with stock dan assembly and no front pusher fan. The mechanical fan was also removed. I feel the car is running on the hotter side. It has been like that from day one though. I've seen these eBay all aluminum 1.8t radiators go for almost nothing and they look like they'll do that part and maybe upgrade the thermostat on the next belt change? Rambling.


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The best would be an aftermarket all aluminum rad IMO. Both from a performance and reliability standpoint. Those plastic crimped end tanks on the OEM units are a ticking time bomb just waiting to crack... especially with how hot this engine runs.

I went with a CSF aluminum rad (b5s4 fitment). While not as cheap as the eBay specials I was aiming for reliability so I wanted a higher quality unit. All aluminum. Tripple pass. Large surface area. Fitment isn't bad on the B6 (requires some trimming) however I don't have the A/C components installed so I can't comment on fitment with the condenser (this has been an issue on the B5).

Keep in mind that the rad construction alone will only help a little bit during slow moving traffic. You really need airflow across it for it to be effective so you are still limited by the fan setup/trigger point regardless of the rad you have. Personally, similar to what Blitz mentioned, I think the OEM fan temp setpoints are to high if you only have electric fans. 95C is when the fans turn on (low speed) however this is measured at the rad output so the coolant in the engine is hotter than this. Even with this rad I was seeing 110C (at the engine) during hot summer days while stuck in traffic so I think something closer to a 90C fan turn on temp would be better (at the rad output so probably 93-95C in the engine).

http://www.detailingdistrict.ca/Audi-Random-Pics/CSF_rad_ER_ics.jpg

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/486284-The-Official-B6-2-7T-DIY-Swap-Guide?p=12532630&viewfull=1#post12532630

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/486284-The-Official-B6-2-7T-DIY-Swap-Guide?p=12543950&viewfull=1#post12543950

[GearHead7]

Does anyone please have a DIY of any kind for a complete disassembly of the 2.7T? Something similar to a Bentley or a FAQ or walk through or thread, something-anything?

[Ephry73]

the 3.0 will be your biggest oem capacity. what are you triggering your fan with? the stock s4 switch may be a bit to hot for some people in some areas as its meant to come on if the mechanical fan can't keep up. I posted a lower temp switch somewhere in this thread but I'll try and find it again, personally I used a modified bmw one that has a lower temp.

Gotcha. Could possibly use a low speed setup


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[Ephry73]

The best would be an aftermarket all aluminum rad IMO. Both from a performance and reliability standpoint. Those plastic crimped end tanks on the OEM units are a ticking time bomb just waiting to crack... especially with how hot this engine runs.

I went with a CSF aluminum rad (b5s4 fitment). While not as cheap as the eBay specials I was aiming for reliability so I wanted a higher quality unit. All aluminum. Tripple pass. Large surface area. Fitment isn't bad on the B6 (requires some trimming) however I don't have the A/C components installed so I can't comment on fitment with the condenser (this has been an issue on the B5).

Keep in mind that the rad construction alone will only help a little bit during slow moving traffic. You really need airflow across it for it to be effective so you are still limited by the fan setup/trigger point regardless of the rad you have. Personally, similar to what Blitz mentioned, I think the OEM fan temp setpoints are to high if you only have electric fans. 95C is when the fans turn on (low speed) however this is measured at the rad output so the coolant in the engine is hotter than this. Even with this rad I was seeing 110C (at the engine) during hot summer days while stuck in traffic so I think something closer to a 90C fan turn on temp would be better (at the rad output so probably 93-95C in the engine).

http://www.detailingdistrict.ca/Audi-Random-Pics/CSF_rad_ER_ics.jpg

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/486284-The-Official-B6-2-7T-DIY-Swap-Guide?p=12532630&viewfull=1#post12532630

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/486284-The-Official-B6-2-7T-DIY-Swap-Guide?p=12543950&viewfull=1#post12543950

That's exactly my thinking. My current setup (to answer the question above ) is triggered using the stock 3.0 as per diy.

I'm thinking all aluminum radiator with more surface area should cool more efficiently.

If I get a trigger that is reading the temp as close to the block as possible I should be able to cool it better

Getting a slim fan to push air at idle and in traffic triggered at X temp should help. Of course now that summer is over, I can experiment without really risking too much. The after run fans come in as they should but I think the triggering temp seems too high/delayed.

Or maybe low speed one fan(pushing air) and medium fast speed two fans drawing air.

Thanks for the replies. I'll look into this further and post later.


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[blitz2190]

That's exactly my thinking. My current setup (to answer the question above ) is triggered using the stock 3.0 as per diy.

I'm thinking all aluminum radiator with more surface area soils cool more efficiently.

If I get a trigger that is reading the temp as close to the block as possible I should be able to cool it better

Getting a slim fan to push air at idle and in traffic triggered at X temp should help. Of course now that summer is over, I can experiment without really risking too much. The after run fans come in as they should but I think the triggering temp seems too high/delayed.

Or maybe low speed one fan(pushing air) and medium fast speed two fans drawing air.

Thanks for the replies. I'll look into this further and post later.


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another option that I was thinking of is putting the stock temp, sensor in the aux pump sensor spot, it would read higher there. our you can use something like this https://www.urotuning.com/Auxillary-Fan-Switch-Low-Temp-93-88-85-80c-Mk2-p/321959481.htm and see if you can find a plug, it should fit but I'm not 100% on that.

[replica_rs4]

Could any one tell me if a wavetrak diff for b5 rear fit inside b7 rear diff case.Went thru a few threads and no conclusive result.

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[ADCS]

Could any one tell me if a wavetrak diff for b5 rear fit inside b7 rear diff case.Went thru a few threads and no conclusive result.

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You best bet is to get in touch with Scott:

http://advancedautomotion.com/shop/

[GearHead7]

Does anyone please have a DIY of any kind for a complete disassembly of the 2.7T? Something similar to a Bentley or a FAQ or walk through or thread, something-anything?

Seriously anything? Perhaps just a walk through for rod replacements?