A Build Thread: Taking the Racewagon to a whole new level

[S4 John]

More of a question, I saw on an episode or roadkill garage they did an engine overhaul and cleaned up the cylinders using a drill attachment honing tool. Just curious, would you do this?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...FQyEaQodLrkK-g

[rdcyclist]

More of a question, I saw on an episode or roadkill garage they did an engine overhaul and cleaned up the cylinders using a drill attachment honing tool. Just curious, would you do this?

Yes, I've used those to break the glaze on cylinders but prefer the straight stone type like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-23500/overview/

If you wanna be pro-like this is much better because it'll keep the cylinder truer: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-15000/overview/

[Gabe.]

Looks good Justin! When are you working on it next?

[Wagonholic]

Looks good Justin! When are you working on it next?

Thanks! I work on it a little bit every day. Hoping to begin engine assembly this weekend.

[Wagonholic]

Been pretty hot/busy this past week, but I finally got the rods on the pistons. All that is left to do is to put the c-clips back (probably gonna be a pain in the ass) and then start putting the motor back together.

Soaked the pistons for almost two days in a mixture of hot water, engine degreaser, and brake cleaner. Worked beautifully and the carbon came off easily with the purple scotchbrite pads. They basically look brand new. Forgot to take a "before" picture though lol
[IMG][/IMG]

And the rods and pistons are now one.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Stay tuned for big updates this week :)

[Wagonholic]

Pictures of the SRM RS6/K24 Turbos:
[IMG][/IMG]

Next to the K04s (for sale):
[IMG][/IMG]

If anyone is interested in my old parts, I have listed what I have for sale at the following link:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-Stage-3-Parts

[jibberjive]

Nice build! It looks like you are most of the way through, but here is a link to a document with some assembly tips/tricks, torque specs, links to help with the c-clip installation, etc.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...links-document

It's looking good, and I look forward to following the build!

[christianb5s4]

Great progress Justin, the race wagon is going to be a beast! Also, I was out of town this weekend but let me know when you want to pick up my Miltek exhaust. I'll be around for a few weeks.

[Wagonholic]

Nice build! It looks like you are most of the way through, but here is a link to a document with some assembly tips/tricks, torque specs, links to help with the c-clip installation, etc.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...links-document

It's looking good, and I look forward to following the build!

Glad you chimed in, I actually printed out your document a while back and thought it was super helpful. It's great to have resources like that out there.

As for the bearing tangs, I've talked to several people and they said it doesn't really matter which side it goes on, provided that you keep it consistent. In my case, I ended up facing them towards the exhaust (outside) of the motor.

Great progress Justin, the race wagon is going to be a beast! Also, I was out of town this weekend but let me know when you want to pick up my Miltek exhaust. I'll be around for a few weeks.

No worries, I'll probably be back in the OC this weekend again anyway.

[Wagonholic]

Updates for the night...unfortunately photobucket is down so pics will have to wait.

Got the bottom end assembled. All went pretty smoothly, all the rod bearings are in spec, verified with plastigauge.

Used an $8 harbor freight ring compressor (was on sale), worked beautifully lol. Super easy to put everything in. Clocked the rings 90 degrees from each other to prevent blowby/compression issues.

I do have a question though...everyone says to torque the ARP rod bolts to 28 ft-lbs for the 5/16" head. However, I discovered that i have 3/8" inch rod bolts, and the sheet specified that those types of bolts needed to be torqued to 45 ft-lbs. However according to this thread I should disregard that as the torque spec is for the type that is bolts/studs. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...bs-or-50ft-lbs Anyways, 28 ft-lbs was the one that was checked on my sheet so I ended up following that as I didn't want to overstretch/torque the bolts.

I ended torquing my rod bolts to 30 ft-lbs for good measure. Used the supplied packet of moly lube as well Did the torque/remove method 3x, and all clearances checked out. Thoughts?

If I did anything wrong or of concern please let me know asap. Would rather fix it now before I throw the oil pans back on or worse...after i start the car for the first time.

I'll post photos of my progress as soon as photobucket is back up and running.

[jibberjive]

As for the bearing tangs, I've talked to several people and they said it doesn't really matter which side it goes on, provided that you keep it consistent. In my case, I ended up facing them towards the exhaust (outside) of the motor.

It looks like IE came out with a FAQ on the rods since the last time I looked, and directly from them, the bearing tangs go on the exhaust side.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11661893

I do have a question though...everyone says to torque the ARP rod bolts to 28 ft-lbs for the 5/16" head. However, I discovered that i have 3/8" inch rod bolts, and the sheet specified that those types of bolts needed to be torqued to 45 ft-lbs. However according to this thread I should disregard that as the torque spec is for the type that is bolts/studs. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...bs-or-50ft-lbs Anyways, 28 ft-lbs was the one that was checked on my sheet so I ended up following that as I didn't want to overstretch/torque the bolts.

I ended torquing my rod bolts to 30 ft-lbs for good measure. Used the supplied packet of moly lube as well Did the torque/remove method 3x, and all clearances checked out. Thoughts?

Which set of rods do you have exactly? I am highly skeptical that you actually have 3/8" rod bolts on 2.7 rods (the socket on the 5/16" rod bolts is 3/8", so maybe that threw you off?).

I haven't done a set of IE rods in a while, but when I did, the literature that came with it said 26ft/lbs IIRC. However, it looks like ARP themselves have updated their 2.7t stock rod bolt replacement page with a torque spec that says 30 ft/lbs (WITH ARP moly lube).

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/204-6201.pdf




Also, if you look at the general torque specs for ARP fasteners in their catalog (page 24 here http://arpcatalog.com/?src=home), it says that 220,000 psi rated 5/16" fasteners (which is what the 5/16" ARP2000 rod bolts are rated at) should be torqued to 32 ft/lb with lube (and the 200,000 psi rated ones are 28 ft/lb).

30 ft/lbs from the ARP2000 2.7t rod bolt product page is right in that range, and that is the value I have updated my sheet to have.

Edit: I saw the pictures and posts from above, you definitely have 5/16" rod bolts, not 3/8".

[Wagonholic]

It looks like IE came out with a FAQ on the rods since the last time I looked, and directly from them, the bearing tangs go on the exhaust side.


Which set of rods do you have exactly? I am highly skeptical that you actually have 3/8" rod bolts on 2.7 rods (the socket on the 5/16" rod bolts is 3/8", so maybe that threw you off?).

I haven't done a set of IE rods in a while, but when I did, the literature that came with it said 26ft/lbs IIRC. However, it looks like ARP themselves have updated their 2.7t stock rod bolt replacement page with a torque spec that says 30 ft/lbs (WITH ARP moly lube).


Also, if you look at the general torque specs for ARP fasteners in their catalog (page 24 here http://arpcatalog.com/?src=home), it says that 220,000 psi rated 5/16" fasteners (which is what the 5/16" ARP2000 rod bolts are rated at) should be torqued to 32 ft/lb with lube (and the 200,000 psi rated ones are 28 ft/lb).

30 ft/lbs from the ARP2000 2.7t rod bolt product page is right in that range, and that is the value I have updated my sheet to have.

Edit: I saw the pictures and posts from above, you definitely have 5/16" rod bolts, not 3/8".

Must've been that. Thank you for clarifying that up.

I installed my bearing tangs facing the exhaust side. should be okay.

I may just bump up the torque 2 ft-lbs today just to be on the safe side...though my 30 ft-lbs should theoretically be okay. I did use lube...giggity

[y3ti]

updates!?

keep this rolling... it's too easy to lose motivation.

[Wagonholic]

updates!?

keep this rolling... it's too easy to lose motivation.

Lol been busy, but the build is still rolling.

I assembled the bottom end, everything spins freely. I'm currently out of the country, but I'll be back in around two weeks. When I'm backing I'm thinking of having a couple of people over to help finish the motor assembly and then reinstall it in the car. The goal is to have it all back and running by early August.

Don't worry, I haven't lost motivation! I never expected to finish the build before leaving on my trip.

Still waiting on my injectors from SRM/FID and my flywheel surface from AWE.

I'll post some pics in a bit ;)

[christianb5s4]

Y3ti wants to see your progress since he's feeling uber competitive to see who will have the faster avant after all these builds are done.

[y3ti]

Y3ti wants to see your progress since he's feeling uber competitive to see who will have the faster avant after all these builds are done.

lol, truth.

and hopefully I can convince a few of you to run the 1/4 when we're all at 100%

[Wagonholic]

lol, truth.

and hopefully I can convince a few of you to run the 1/4 when we're all at 100%

Down to take it to the strip and run the 1/4. Slight chance I may be able to run the 1/8th at SoCal Euro this year, but if the car isn't fully broken in yet I obviously won't risk it lol. But if the car is up and running, i'll make the drive down.

What's the point of all the power if you aren't going to use it ;)

[Wagonholic]

Well, it's time for a long overdue update!

I was out of the country for 3 weeks, but I got to work as soon as I got back. As the motor currently stands, the entire bottom assembly is completely assembled. I will be leaving the country again for 2 weeks in 1 1/2 weeks (lol) but my goal is to finish assembling the motor before I leave.

Here are some pics of the current progress:

Front view of the motor. Removed all accessories from the front. I have a new timing kit, water pump, and thermostat that will be installed. I will be replacing the stock clutch fan with an EFK.
[IMG][/IMG]

Views of assembled pistons/rods/motor:
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

My RPM rods didn't require any additional machining out of the box, the wrist pins fit fine and I checked the clearances on all the rod bearings (new) and they were in spec. I torqued all the rod bolts down to 32 ft-lbs. The wrist pin c-clips aren't too difficult to install if you have a really small pair of pliers and know a couple of tricks. (rotate your wrists and use the hole on the piston lol)

The next major step is reinstalling the heads. Any tips or tricks for setting timing? I will be using a cam lock bar.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post10194563
What I seem to get is that the best way is to position the crankshaft so that the pistons are out of the interference zone, set heads at TDC, then set crank at TDC?

Soon, very soon she will be running. I have spare car so I'm not in any rush, but I'm getting anxious and want to drive the car already lol. Plus, my parents kinda want this half of the garage back. Lol.

[Wagonholic]

So it's been a while since I've posted any updates, but I've got a major update today! Assembled the longblock, and the heads are back on the car! It's finally becoming a reality, and the finish line is in sight!

[IMG][/IMG]

While reinstalling the heads, I took the opportunity to install 2.8 intake cams as well. I forgot to order a tensioner for the timing belt, so I put off installing the belt for now. In the meantime, the motor is timed and is currently locked with the pin and bar.

Just to double check, installing the head bolts is a sequence of 40nm, 60nm, then two rounds of 90 degrees to achieve final stretch? (In the proper sequence of course)

[Monty23]

Just to double check, installing the head bolts is a sequence of 40nm, 60nm, then two rounds of 90 degrees to achieve final stretch? (In the proper sequence of course)

You got it.

[topquarkpc]

Updates?

[Wagonholic]

Almost forgot I had a build thread even; it's been a long time.

Good news....engine is back in the car and first startup happened last night! The hoses/lines aren't on completely or securely, I just hastily put them on because I wanted to start the car so badly. Lol. So there is probably a leak, and not the smoothest idle because this was attempted on my old K04 file. Once I flashed my new base file on the car smoothed out quite a bit (still not 100%, but closer than expected).

It's been a long process...slowly but surely it'll get there lol.

I'll attach a video shortly, my network isn't allowing me to upload a video at the moment.

To all of my friends that came by, put long hours in with me and helped, and to those that helped me figure out issues over the internet, I can't thank you enough.

[Wagonholic]

Alright, no more slacking. I'll bring this thread back to life. In my previous post, I mentioned that the car is running nicely and is about ready for shakedowns.

The motor has about 95 miles on it and is due for an oil change. I'm currently running cheap-o Walmart conventional 5w-30; I'll be doing an oil change with the same stuff. At 500 miles, I shall switch over to synthetic, and will be running Mobil1 0w-40 European Car blend, which I had always run previously.

Final specs of the build are (pretty sure I forgot a lot lol):

• SRM K24/RS6 Turbochargers (Wastegates set to 15psi)
• RPM Rods
• FID 1000cc Fuel Injectors
• 2.8 30v Intake Cams
• Southbend Stage IV Extreme Clutch assembly
• Stern Motor and Transmission Mounts
• WDR Custom Bi-pipe
• Stock Piston rings
• New rod bearings
• Stock Pistons
• Gates Racing Timing Belt
• Full Motor reseal
• STUKLR Custom Tuning

Quickie vid of cold start and light revs

[Wagonholic]

Figured I would throw up some of my favorite pics I did during this build. It's been a long road, taking a lot longer than expected. I've been busy with school, work, and I travel a lot. I usually only had the chance to work on the car during the weekends. So in those cases the car gets pushed to the side. This was my first motor pull/engine build/all sorts of fun. It's been a great learning experience, and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. I have tons of pics on Instagram: my handle is @justinliew_

I have also created a new handle on Instagram that highlights the automotive antics my close friends and I partake. I think I've gotten them hooked on the DIY bug. Visit @yeengineering as this new account takes off.


AAAAAANNNNNND, some pictures....

Engine completed, timing all set, turbos mounted (September 2016)
[IMG][/IMG]

Pressure washed engine bay, a clean new home (September 2016)
[IMG][/IMG]

Engine fully sealed, complete (October 2016)
[IMG][/IMG]

Rebuilding front end, control arms were all original and were completely shot. FCP Euro kit came in clutch, and feels great (November 2016)
[IMG][/IMG]

Took the engine off the stand, and this is when the project really felt like the end was in sight (December 2016)
[IMG][/IMG]

Engine and Transmission Mounted. Great way to end 2016 (December 31, 2016)
[IMG][/IMG]

Engine back in its home (January 2017)
[IMG][/IMG]

I left for Europe right after putting the motor back in. Two weeks later, my friends kept bugging me to finish up the damn car. So we got together one Friday night, ordered some food and drinks, and worked through the whole night putting the rest of the car back together. CSF Radiators sent me a radiator a while back to test fit, and it fits very well and provides more than enough cooling for the car. Fans are not even hooked up yet and the car never goes past center.

Pulling an all nighter to reassemble car (February 2017)
[IMG][/IMG]

As of February 2017, I've owned this car for 3 years. Can't believe it has been that long.

The next day, I finally drove the damn car for the first time in almost 8 months. Felt so good (February 2017).
[IMG][/IMG]

I need an alignment (lowered on PSS9 coilovers) and new tires as well. My favorite cheap tire, the Federal 595 EVO seem to be out of stock everywhere. Might give the new 595 RPM a try or even the RS-R. I've had experience in various cars with the Federal-595 family and love them. Lol. Hey they work.

If all goes well, shakedowns should done around the end of March and I can begin pump gas/meth tuning at that time. Once it's dialed in, I ultimately plan to run E85 and meth. (@vavjettaw36, I look forward to seeing your ethanol content analyzer/gauge cluster thingy. I'll definitely need one )

I'll be keeping this thread updated again! Stay tuned, and thanks to all of those that were of assistance!

[erykv1]

awesome man, glad to see everything come together nicely!

[Cajkaaa]

looking good! basically the setup i want to do

[jnaarnold]

Read this whole thread tonight...
one question...did you leave the cam chain, or replace it? Just curious...and awesome build...I want one of these next to my B5 S4!!

[Wagonholic]

awesome man, glad to see everything come together nicely!

Thank you sir! Your 2.0T coil conversion pigtails are working nicely lol ;)

looking good! basically the setup i want to do

Considering someone recently made 620whp and trapped low 11s in the 1/4 on basically the exact same setup, I am looking forward to the results.
(Not gonna get too caught up in the numbers game. It could make 100whp for all I care. As long as it's fast as shit I'll be happy. I like to drive my car very hard so this should be a fun setup)

Read this whole thread tonight...
one question...did you leave the cam chain, or replace it? Just curious...and awesome build...I want one of these next to my B5 S4!!

Yeah I forgot to post and update this thread for a while lol.
I reused my cam chains. They looked fine. Cam chain tensioners looked good too. I had to replace the pads on one because I accidentally dropped one and broke it lol. $10 for replacement pads.

[jibberjive]

Nice to see it get buttoned up!

Considering someone recently made 620whp and trapped low 11s in the 1/4 on basically the exact same setup, I am looking forward to the results.

Any links to this comparable setup?

[Wagonholic]

Nice to see it get buttoned up!



Any links to this comparable setup?

Thank you!

Yes it was posted on the lowercase group ok facebook. Here are some screen grabs and a video of the dude's 1/4 run. The only hardware difference is that he has supertech exhaust valves and different tuner. I believe it is an identical setup otherwise.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=MDtVe5B3...ature=youtu.be



I'm not too concerned if I don't hit those numbers, but it's nice knowing that this is a very capable setup.

[y3ti]

Any links to this comparable setup?

It was posted on one of the FB groups. One post was his 1/4 mile run and later he posted his dyno over 600whp or something like that.

Seems kind of crazy, but Blake tuned it and has even chimed in saying it's legit.

I feel like something is being left out, but I didn't keep an eye on the post so I have no idea what the exact setup is.

[jibberjive]

Nice, thanks for the info. I bailed on the lowercase FB group a while ago.

When all of the variables align (E85+meth+good tuner+lightweight wheels+weight reduction+good driving+what I assume is a decent density-altitude), good track times can happen. Glad to see it. 620whp on a mustang with that setup (especially flowing the amount of E85 required to reach that power level through stock fuel lines/rails) is really impressive/borderline. Well done.

For the budget, I don't think you can do much better than your setup.

[Wagonholic]

One of my friends who works closely with Blake mentioned that one of the reasons those figures were achieved on stock rails/lines/single pump was because of meth injection. If I'm not mistaken, didn't itguy make 600+ at the wheels years ago on these same turbos as well?

I know most people fail to achieve what these turbos can actually do because they usually have stock rods and/or have a car that isn't fully dialed in, hardware-wise.

I can say though, although this build took longer, the final cost price isn't too far off from where I had originally estimated. So I'm pretty happy with that lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Monty23]

Nice work!

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Fantastic results at the strip that's for sure, congrats!

Not quite sure I believe the dyno results based on the track results (MPH) and weight claimed by the owner.

[GO-GOTEKNO]

This should be a fun quick spoiling setup

[zatch_303]

excellent! so glad you finished the build! what is even more amazing is that its in a rare laser avant! keep us updated!

quick question, did you have everything balanced after adding RPM rods? or just drop in and go? I keep hearing mixed information on whether or not it is required/recommended.

[Wagonholic]

Thank you all, and those numbers might be optimistic. Not really going to get to caught up in the numbers game when I start dialing in the wagon.

excellent! so glad you finished the build! what is even more amazing is that its in a rare laser avant! keep us updated!

quick question, did you have everything balanced after adding RPM rods? or just drop in and go? I keep hearing mixed information on whether or not it is required/recommended.

No balance. All the rods spec'd out nicely and all weighed the same. The stock rods are actually further "out of balance." My rods didn't require any additional machining, and all plastigauged to spec upon install.

Some say balance, some say it's not necessary. I don't believe it is necessary in this case, and I know of many "unbalanced" builds that are still going nice and strong. Some have built heads and rev out to over 8000.

[Wagonholic]

Picked up some new shoes for the lady today.





My rears were completely shredded. No idea why. Donuts maybe? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[IronmanS4]

Truly an epic job for a 1st timer !!! Hard to beat a very fast Rare Bird .