freeloader700 - Journal & Mods Frankenturbo F21

**freeloader700** · 01-30-2014 08:32 PM

I bought the whole thing, the bumper and the lower valance. Most people just get the lower valance and it looks the same. There is a DIY out there. I don't remember of it was MattDevo or A4Darkness that did it.

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**renatovirella** · 01-30-2014 08:38 PM

so its better to buy the whole bumper ?

**freeloader700** · 01-30-2014 09:09 PM

Check out this thread HERE

If you are on a budget just get the lower. If you have the cash and want to do a quick swap get the whole thing. Really though save that extra money and put it towards a tune or something like that.

EDIT

The eBay lip turned out pretty good

**freeloader700** · 02-08-2014 11:07 PM

Alright so last weekend, wife and I installed my F21. Definitely more power right off the bat. I am still on the base tune and should be receiving the first revision this week. Here are some pics from the install. I started off thinking I was going to do a full DIY but then got too excited and just did the swap. Oh well.

You will need all basic hand tools (Screw drivers, rachets, assorted sockets and extensions, pliers, etc). Some fabrication may be necessary as well so a welder/torch would be good to have as I need it. I HIGHLY recommend you getting a set of crows feet for the manifold nuts. I was told I would need to bend/grind an open box wrench to get it all tightened but found that the crows feet did just fine.

Car at this point has 149,516 miles

Ready to start

First took off the stock airbox and associated hoses/connections

Removed the O2 sensors, loosened the bottom of the downpipe, removed the spring bolt support for the downpipe. I then hosed all the nuts and bolts I was going to be removing with PB Blaster. It is your friend

Disconnected the test pipe / down pipe from the turbo and just let it sit there

Next it was time to remove the TIP so I started by disconnecting the DV

The the PCV, N75 & other hoses

A wee bit dirty....

Herro little guy!

The it was time for the manifold nuts to come off. Another spray of PB Blaster, 12mm socket with 3" wobble extension did the trick

Drained the oil then disconnected the oil and coolant feed lines

**freeloader700** · 02-08-2014 11:20 PM

Here are the much required comparison pics

This photo highlights the difference in angle between the cold side. This cause some fitment issues, you will see in a bit

With everything off it was time to clean it all up. I ran a used manifold nut up and down the studs' threads with some PB Blaster to help clean them. In addition I used a wire brush to help along.

In the midst of it all I broke this elbow for my SAI. I am currently just using some heater hose as a band aid. So far no issues. You guys think I should get the actual piece or will the heater hose fix suffice?

Manifold installed. I am telling you, get a set of crows feet. I don't see how it would have been possible without them. I used OEM 12mm nuts on all of the outside positions as well as the bottom second closest to the front of the car. The rest are the M10 nuts that 034 sells

Swapped over the fittings and hoses from the stock K03 to the F21

**freeloader700** · 02-08-2014 11:35 PM

Turbo now bolted on and ready to get the testpipe mounted on. Well, it wasn't fitting. It mated up to the turbo on the passenger side stud but left about a 1/2" gap on the driver side stud. So it was time to cut and weld...hopefully making it work

Made my cut and placed it in between the two tabs like so

Tacking it up

Welded in

Perfect fit! First shot. Beginners luck maybe. Man its clean in there now!

TIP now installed

All done! Notice the new expansion tank that you can actually see through.

It took about 4 hrs of off and on working to get everything off, clean the oil supply and return lines. Reinstall took a good 8-10hrs of off and on working. There were various nuts and bolts that required a little motivation to get loose. I had to cut a tab off of the oil supply line that supports the heatshield. I also had to trim that area of the heat shield because it was not clearing the new manifold. Started it up and there were zero issues! Bled the coolant a few times and I was good to go. No errors, no problems. I would say it was a pretty successful install. I still have to install the turbo support bracket. The angles with that were off as well and I have not has a chance to get it back on. I heated it up red hot with a torch, put it in a vice and pulled on it a bit to bend it. I think it will take a little more of that and then it will be good.

There will be my old set of 386cc's for sale, about 30k on them. The old 3" TIP as well, about 10K on it

Here is a little 3rd gear pull of the base file

**Jermunji** · 02-09-2014 01:42 PM

whoa.

Originally Posted by freeloader700

Here is how I made the bi-xenon harness. First post has links to some of the connectors and what not.

First I masked off all but the cut off flap and painted it with high temp flat black.

After I "baked" it with my heat gun careful to not apply heat to the solenoid itself.

Now it is time to make the harness for the solenoid. Here is what I used

Cut off the connectors that come on the wires

Then strip them

Soldering the connections to solenoid

Soldered the connections to the harness

And there it is....all soldered up, heat shrink on the connections and ready to install

I have more pictures for the rest of the process I did but I can't find them right now. I will post them when I find them. Here is a freeway shot with them

**freeloader700** · 02-10-2014 12:43 PM

I talked with TRS and it turns out there is a recall with some of the ballasts. I will be receiving a pair of re engineered Morimoto ballasts soon. That should take care of my issues I have been having with the inconsistent firing in cold weather and mild flicker

**freeloader700** · 02-12-2014 07:44 AM

My driver wiper retention clip broke in the cold the other day so I needed a new wiper arm. Didn't feel like buying a new arm so I improvised. I remember seeing a thread awhile back using Rain-X Latitude blades. So I decided to give it a go.

2 x Rain-X Latitude 21" blades

2 x M6x30 Allen bolts

2 x M6 nylon lock nuts

Total about $37

First needed to remove the swivel sections. I squeezed it and used a flat head screw driver to help it along

Then there is a second clip. I didn't realize it was there until the wiper didn't fit. That needs to come out too

Then install the bolt and nut and you are done!

Quick and easy and now I don't have to worry about my wiper falling off

**customa4** · 02-12-2014 08:37 AM

Great work on the turbo install! I'm not sure how I missed it when you updated this thread. That hose that you broke for the SAI is sold by 034 in silicon. I'm waiting for mine in the mail, should have it soon. Click

How do you like the new setup??

**freeloader700** · 02-12-2014 09:29 AM

Thank you, I am really enjoying the new power. There are some kinks to work out but that is expected. Dave said I ran a little lean a couple of times. I should have a revision today some time. Hopefully that will take care of it.

I still have to get the turbo support bracket installed. I am having to heat and bend it a bit to get the angles right. There is a little rattle at certain RPMs under the passenger footwell. Might be something with the DP. I will investigate when I have a chance.

I might have to get that from 034, probably better than the heater hose I am using right now.

Also, pulled the plugs and adjust the gap from 0.43" to 0.32" as per Dave's recommendation. I did notice a little more consistent power. The butt dyno definitely noticed it. Here are what the plugs looked like, looks okay to me

**LordO** · 02-12-2014 10:15 AM

If you are running a test pipe, why not a SAI delete instead?

**freeloader700** · 02-13-2014 09:56 AM

Haven't actually thought about a delete. Is it really pointless to have now that I have a test pipe? Isn't it only for cold starts? (I am probably wrong)

**LordO** · 02-13-2014 10:04 AM

Originally Posted by freeloader700

Haven't actually thought about a delete. Is it really pointless to have now that I have a test pipe? Isn't it only for cold starts? (I am probably wrong)

My understanding is that its sole purpose is to bring the catalyst up to efficiency on cold starts. Without a catalytic converter there is no catalyst and therefore no purpose. I would love to be corrected if I am wrong as I am strongly considering removing mine when I do my rear coolant flange.

**SaabtoAudi** · 02-13-2014 10:21 AM

Originally Posted by LordO

My understanding is that its sole purpose is to bring the catalyst up to efficiency on cold starts. Without a catalytic converter there is no catalyst and therefore no purpose. I would love to be corrected if I am wrong as I am strongly considering removing mine when I do my rear coolant flange.

From my reading and understand I believe this is a correct statement.

**coowhip** · 02-13-2014 10:45 AM

Originally Posted by SaabtoAudi

From my reading and understand I believe this is a correct statement.

My understanding as well. TP = Pointless SAI

**LordO** · 02-13-2014 11:04 AM

Originally Posted by SaabtoAudi

From my reading and understand I believe this is a correct statement.

Originally Posted by coowhip

My understanding as well. TP = Pointless SAI

Thanks for the confirmation. /endthreadjack (sorry freeloader!)

**freeloader700** · 02-13-2014 11:27 AM

Thanks everyone

No worries LordO, I don't mind. The more info in the thread the better!

I will have to do some digging then to see if it is something I am going to want to do. Feel free everyone to post more info on this

**freeloader700** · 02-17-2014 07:45 AM

Over the weekend I installed my turbo support bracket. It took some convincing with a torch and a vice. I must say, that bracket is very strong. Even glowing red hot it had a hard time bending. It is all bolted up and fits well. I love when you have to manipulate something and it works perfect

**freeloader700** · 02-27-2014 07:20 AM

So yesterday I pulled off the Rain-X blade. They didn't work better than my stockers. There was a section at the center of the blade that was missing. So back to the store they go. and man, the stock blades look way better IMO. I still need a new arm. I am not sure I am wanting to spend $140 on a Aero conversion right now. From what I have read, the B7's came with aero arms and swap onto a B6. Is this correct? If so I might visit my local junkyard and see what I can find.

I also cracked a T for my boost gauge. Felt like an N/A car for a bit, I don't like that. I did the N249 loop awhile back. Recently read that its actually not a good thing to do even though the throttle feel more "connected" and has a better response. So I bough 6ft of hose, a 4 point vac intersection (their T was much too big) and a cap for unused port. I set it all back up the way it is supposed to be (N249 no longer looped), set the DV to full DV and now running smooth again.

Here is the intersection right by the solenoid

**freeloader700** · 03-14-2014 06:56 AM

I have been having issues with cold mornings and the ballasts not firing. Talk to TRS and seems there has been a recall with the previous version with symptoms like this. I finally received my new "reengineered" ballasts yesterday. Here is comparison pictures of the two. Fitment in my Depo Ecodes has not changed due to their size increase

New version DSP left, a little taller

New version left, a little longer and does not have the two hollow veins (vent of some sort?)

New version top, shiny glossy finish vs the matte of the previous version

Thoughts: Took a long time, close to two months to get the replacements. They fire up a bit quicker and seem to be pushing out more light. I need to alight the headlights again as they have become misaligned when I removed the housings.

**freeloader700** · 03-27-2014 06:46 AM

Did my rear brakes. Stop tech rotors and pads

This is the passenger piston, is this get bigger brakes when these are shot or get some bigger brakes now?

All I have to say is that this little tool is so helpful. I don't know how some guys do the rotors without it

rear-brake-caliper-socket T40027

**Bische** · 03-27-2014 07:32 AM

Good thing you plumbed the n249 back in

I cannot have a n249 no more

**freeloader700** · 03-28-2014 08:51 AM

Yeah good thing. It feels a lot better. What's up with your N249?

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**Charles.waite** · 03-28-2014 03:04 PM

Originally Posted by Bische

Good thing you plumbed the n249 back in

I cannot have a n249 no more

BT problems....

I need to re plumb my n249. My car is just a tad jerky around the city. Mostly transitions between low/partial boost and idle. Hoping slapping it back in will improve boost response too.

**Bische** · 03-29-2014 07:40 AM

Originally Posted by freeloader700

Yeah good thing. It feels a lot better. What's up with your N249?

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My new engine and its management does not have a n249 since it is an N/A engine from the beginning

**freeloader700** · 04-01-2014 12:02 PM

Well then that would do it. Anyone ever cut silicone couplers? I have one for my FMIC that I think I will need to cut. Good or a bad idea and what would you use to cut it?

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**Matt Devo** · 04-01-2014 01:19 PM

Originally Posted by freeloader700

Anyone ever cut silicone couplers? I have one for my FMIC that I think I will need to cut. Good or a bad idea and what would you use to cut it?

no reason why not as long as there's enough coupler left on either end for the clamps. I've just used some shop shears I got from Harbor Freight for $3 or so.

**ECS Tuning-Audi** · 04-02-2014 09:53 AM

Originally Posted by Matt Devo

no reason why not as long as there's enough coupler left on either end for the clamps. I've just used some shop shears I got from Harbor Freight for $3 or so.

Yep! Place the coupler on a piece of cardboard, trace a line around it, cut out the middle section of cardboard, slide it up a bit to where you want to cut on the coupler, trace another line on to the coupler with a paint pen, then cut in to the coupler at the opening and follow the line you previously made with the paint pen.

Easiest way to ensure you have straight edges!

Jason

**freeloader700** · 04-03-2014 06:59 AM

Thanks guys. I really like the cardboard idea. I will have to try that then and make a trip to HF. Man I need to get that FMIC on...I heatsoak so quick and the tune is super conservative. Can't wait to feel the full power when its done. Hopefully my stock clutch will hold up fine (replaced 30k miles ago)

**ECS Tuning-Audi** · 04-03-2014 07:15 AM

Originally Posted by freeloader700

Hopefully my stock clutch will hold up fine (replaced 30k miles ago)

I have a feeling you might over power the stock clutch once you get everything sorted out and you have fully optimized the power out put.

A healthy F21 can produce about 250whp and close to 300ft/lbs which can easily over come the stock clutch. Just be prepared to have something stronger ready to go in the future.

Jason

**freeloader700** · 04-03-2014 09:20 AM

We shall see. If it doesn't hold, not sure if I want to go SMFW or just go with the Valeo HD

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**ECS Tuning-Audi** · 04-03-2014 10:05 AM

Originally Posted by freeloader700

We shall see. If it doesn't hold, not sure if I want to go SMFW or just go with the Valeo HD

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Single mass will not give you anymore holding power over stock. IMO our RA4 Stage 1 or Stage 2 is a great complement to a F21 kit. Just sayin..

Jason

**freeloader700** · 04-10-2014 09:59 AM

I noticed my Forge Split-R has buzzing sound on idle. It comes and goes in intensity. I used an aluminum tube against my phone case to intensify the sound. Compared sound of the valve cover to the sound of the valve. What do you all think? All seems to be working fine from what I can see on my boost gauge...

**freeloader700** · 04-22-2014 07:29 PM

I pulled off the diverter valve and it looked fine. Serviced it and then noticed this…

Freakin TIP Coming off the turbo. It sounded like my DV was on hybrid when is was at 100% diverter. So I had to take off a few things reposition and put a better clamp on it. I don't know if any of you have ever used a Frankenturbo TIP or not, but it can be a difficult fit. The issue I ran into is the clamp is fairly wide and has a difficult time getting a good bite on the turbo. All buttoned back up now and is running better. I still have that strange buzzing sound intermittently with the DV. Any ideas?

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**johnwiz** · 04-22-2014 07:59 PM

I had a similar problem on my TIP on my F21. I had to really crank down on the clamps on the TIP and intercooler (ER FMIC). I just got my 3rd update from Dave (also regapped my plugs to .032), it is a really noticeable difference, the car idles very smooth and pulls really well.

I'm also on the stock clutch 121,000 miles. We'll see how long it holds up.. LOL

**mauromj** · 04-22-2014 08:41 PM

This makes me want to go FT soo bad.

**freeloader700** · 04-22-2014 08:54 PM

I still need to get my Treadstone FMIC on bad! I'm currently on revision 3. Dave also recommended that I stepped my gap down to 0.032" I was at 0.042" to 0.045" and it's running a lot happier now.

If you have budget power in mind this is definitely a good option. I'm very pleased with my set up so far. Once the Intercooler is on Dave will really be able to turn up the timing so I'm excited to see what that will do.

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**Jflow23** · 04-23-2014 08:19 AM

Originally Posted by freeloader700

I still need to get my Treadstone FMIC on bad! I'm currently on revision 3. Dave also recommended that I stepped my gap down to 0.032" I was at 0.042" to 0.045" and it's running a lot happier now.

What coils are you running? Johnwiz said the same thing about reducing the gap. I'm running TFSI coils @ .042 on Motoza, no issues but curious to know what the difference was post gap reduction. My N249 is also looped, done for about 5 years now, what was the perceived benefit in going back to stock operation?

**freeloader700** · 04-23-2014 12:35 PM

I am running these, FSI if I am not mistaken. Someone here recommended these to me...

Dave said,
"...you might want to experiment with going down some to .032, despite the forums which would lead you to believe otherwise I see quite a few setups that experience misfires at large gaps/FSI coils"