Figured ill start a thread instead of making a new one for each mod. And now since i have my own garage, the upgrades will (hopefully) be much more frequent
Black anodized Evolution Racewerks Competition FMIC, custom piping 2.25"/2.5"
Custom 3" downpipe with 100cel race catalyst
Ferrita stainless resonated /w 3.5" tips
Aluminum piston type DV
ECS snub mount
Stern soft motor mounts
Stern transmission mount v2
Apikol soft rear diff mount, billet version
Clutchmasters FX400 6-puck
Clutchmasters 240mm 19lb steel flywheel
Here is my plans for the car:
This being my first post as a four ringer im going to make it somewhat worthwhile, im going BT this winter and the plan is to have the car running in the spring. Im going to do it in stages to keep the downtime to a minimum.
The goals for my build are response, reliability and stealth. Im not going for max horsepower.
Specs i have in mind:
HTA2868r eliminator with a cleaned up BEX mani
B5/6 S4 MAF
ID1000's
Maestro 7
3" DP with a high flow cat
Treadstone TR8 intercooler with 2" hotside and 2.25" coldside
240mm FX400 6-puck and steel LWFW
Stern soft motor/trans + apikol soft rear diff mount
That will be the first stage, and im going to do the DP, IC and clutch while on stock turbo. When i get all that figured out/running as intended, i will swap in the turbo/injectors and load up Maestro 7. I will be running it like this for a while to enjoy the car and to save up the funds for the next stage. I know the elim housing will hold me back, but im not intending to max it out at this point, im going to run it with an unopened longblock.
Second stage will consist of:
10:1-ish CR 83mm pistons
IE rods
PSi t25 mani
Inline fuelpump and upgraded system
3bar MAP
E85
Building the block on the side, ill figure out what i want for CR when i get to that point. break the motor in on ron98, upgrade fueling then tune it for E85.
This is the first build i planned myself, i will run into problems for sure, but problems = learning. Im just hoping to avoid the most stupid ones
I have owned a BAT audi s4 -92(think theyre called 5000 in the USA), that one i wrenched at night to get me to work in the morning, good times...
Ill sum up my past with my wagon with some pics:
Just bought it 2009:
Summer 2010:
Summer 2011:
Last edited by Bische; 05-12-2012 at 05:11 AM.
Reason: added mod list
Pretty cool idea for the projector fogs. I had the same idea to mount those in the stock housings, but ended up getting Passat ones instead. Looks great your car is definitely an inspiration. Nice work!
And I too would like details about the projector fogs. However, it appears you've gone and done the smart thing... aftermarket, stand alone projectors grafted into OEM fog housings. I should have just done that a while ago.
- Thomas -latest pic | Engine Strengthening-Reliability Project | RogueEuro
-> Revo Stage 1, Forge TIP, ER Sport FMIC, NGK BKR7EIX Plugs, Mitsu Evo DV, Valeo SMFW 228mm Clutch, 034 HFC <-
WTB: H&R Front or Hotchkis S4 Sways
Any possibility of a DIY for the fog light projectors?
This is still in project stage :) I need to fab new cut offs for them, really crappy cut off ATM.
I bought a set of projector fogs that was meant to be screwed to your bumper, 1 set of chinese foglight knock offs(dont buy these, crap quality) and 1 set of H3 xenon bulbs.
Originally Posted by Gmoney
Did you paint the window molding black or replace it?
They are vinyl wrapped they grilles are oem black ones
So it's just not that crisp? Cause the light distribution looks pretty clean, just maybe a bit soft on the edges.
Wait, did you use OEM fog housings or knock offs? I hear the light distribution in the knock off halogen fog housings (using halogen bulbs) isn't anywhere near as good as OEM.
- Thomas -latest pic | Engine Strengthening-Reliability Project | RogueEuro
-> Revo Stage 1, Forge TIP, ER Sport FMIC, NGK BKR7EIX Plugs, Mitsu Evo DV, Valeo SMFW 228mm Clutch, 034 HFC <-
WTB: H&R Front or Hotchkis S4 Sways
Logged my shit today, 003 004 020 to checkout how my intake side is doing. It builds up as i go through gears, as expected with stock intercooler. But im more concerned about my air filter setup sucking hot air, as it was -1C ambient and i got +12-15C IAT while cruising and had about +17-20C IAT standing still at idle.
Im lurking for similar logs to compare, and found some in JMW BT build thread. His IATs were about 7C over ambient(+7C) while cruising..
But it runs great, 0 CFs with around 14 degrees timing advance at peak, and around 165-170g/s peak flow. havent logged actual MAP, but my boost gauge says it holds ~19psi and tapers to 15psi at 5500rpms
Negative, the Koni's are dampening adjustable and the Bilsteins (both HD and Sport) are not.
Both the Bilstein Sport and Koni Yellows are designed to work with the OEM Sport Spring and / or an aftermarket spring as well (Eibach, Neuspeed, H&R etc etc). Bilstein HDs are designed for the non-sport spring.
From my experience, if you reeeeeealy want adjustable shocks then go for it. But keep in mind you'll need to pull the shocks from the car to adjust them. While the rears are really easy, the fronts are far from that. I'm running Konis and Eibachs right now and after three attempts to get them adjusted am not happy with them. Very shortly they'll be replaced with the Vogtland CO's I have sitting in my garage.
If I was to choose shocks and springs again, I'd go Bilstein as trying to monkey around with dampening (using such a poor adjustment method) is not for me. I have completely gravitated towards a suspension setup that's been dampening pre-adjusted for our cars. The only way I wouldn't is if I went with PSS9/10's or Stasis Motorsports.
- Thomas -latest pic | Engine Strengthening-Reliability Project | RogueEuro
-> Revo Stage 1, Forge TIP, ER Sport FMIC, NGK BKR7EIX Plugs, Mitsu Evo DV, Valeo SMFW 228mm Clutch, 034 HFC <-
WTB: H&R Front or Hotchkis S4 Sways
Negative, the Koni's are dampening adjustable and the Bilsteins (both HD and Sport) are not.
Both the Bilstein Sport and Koni Yellows are designed to work with the OEM Sport Spring and / or an aftermarket spring as well (Eibach, Neuspeed, H&R etc etc). Bilstein HDs are designed for the non-sport spring.
From my experience, if you reeeeeealy want adjustable shocks then go for it. But keep in mind you'll need to pull the shocks from the car to adjust them. While the rears are really easy, the fronts are far from that. I'm running Konis and Eibachs right now and after three attempts to get them adjusted am not happy with them. Very shortly they'll be replaced with the Vogtland CO's I have sitting in my garage.
If I was to choose shocks and springs again, I'd go Bilstein as trying to monkey around with dampening (using such a poor adjustment method) is not for me. I have completely gravitated towards a suspension setup that's been dampening pre-adjusted for our cars. The only way I wouldn't is if I went with PSS9/10's or Stasis Motorsports.
whoopsydaisy, i thought bilsteins were too? good to know.. But WTF pull the strut to adjust? thats a non-adjustable shock to me..
I mean the spring perch(maybe isnt even called that?), the "plate" the spring sits on? Is there any other viable shocks? hmm, i just got to thinking..
Ha! That's funny. An adjustable non-adjustable shock. Good call.
If I'm understanding your question correctly, you mean the small metal perch that the spring sits on? That part isn't swapped or reused when installing new shocks. That piece stays on the shock when removed and a new shock will have one as well.
- Thomas -latest pic | Engine Strengthening-Reliability Project | RogueEuro
-> Revo Stage 1, Forge TIP, ER Sport FMIC, NGK BKR7EIX Plugs, Mitsu Evo DV, Valeo SMFW 228mm Clutch, 034 HFC <-
WTB: H&R Front or Hotchkis S4 Sways
I see what you're getting at. Bische... but this is a bit out of my realm of knowledge.
I do recall the B5 Bilsteins having some kind of adjustable perch setting but have no idea if this could be retro-fitted into a B6 shock. However, IIRC you can have some kind of adjustment mechanism added to some shocks. But it's a process I'm not familiar with.
I'd PM EBG 18T as he's a bit of a suspension guru and will certainly be able to help.
- Thomas -latest pic | Engine Strengthening-Reliability Project | RogueEuro
-> Revo Stage 1, Forge TIP, ER Sport FMIC, NGK BKR7EIX Plugs, Mitsu Evo DV, Valeo SMFW 228mm Clutch, 034 HFC <-
WTB: H&R Front or Hotchkis S4 Sways
i hate this shit, guess ill have to fork out and get some proper coilovers to be satisfied.. ima call Öhlins tomorrow and get a price on the ones i linked.
I've had nothing but trouble with them. I personally think they are not made for the Avants. My rears blew out twice, and the fronts are now blown out. But the fronts do have 100k on them. I will NEVER buy another KONI product again.
The KONI's are coming out and going with BILSTIENS
While I don't have an Avant, I'll somewhat 2nd what Neil's said about Koni's as I've certainly been annoyed with mine as well.
Koni touts their shocks for our cars as "adjustable" but that comes with some caveats. As mentioned, they're top mount adjustable so they have to be removed from the vehicle to be adjusted. But it goes further than this. To adjust them, you must first secure the shock body and then completely depress the shock into the housing in order to 'activate' the dampening adjuster, so to speak.
But even more ridiculous this? There is no click setting or indicator of what the current level of adjustment is or how much has been made. So you're totally flying blind. Had I realized THAT part, I never ever would have bought them. Pics of said adjustment here.
It's obvious that their shock was designed to be adjusted while on the vehicle. This way, one could both see what the level of adjustment is (using a knob of some kind). But more importantly than this, the weight of the vehicle on the shock would obviously be compressing making it far easier to adjust. Not a bad shock, just bad parameters around it.
Unless dampening adjustment is done using a click set method with a remote... I would highly suggest skipping on that shock on CO.
Bische, my suggestion would be to just spend a few hundred more and buy a set of coilovers. You might be able to find a spring / shock to match your preference but IMO a coilover that comes pre-dampened (with a shock/spring unit) is a far better option. I went Vogtland as they are slightly more stiff than OEM sport and offer the far easier rear adjustment style. That and everyone who runs them seems to have undying adoration for them... not something you hear about shock / spring combos 99% of the time.
Many perceive CO's to only be about gettin more low, but in actuality they provide a matched shock and spring with the added bonus of height (and possibly dampening) adjust-ability.
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Originally Posted by michgo
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