Steering Rack Replacement Questions

[JEENYUS]

I recently bought a new steering rack and I plan on replacing it here in the next few weeks, but I wanted to get an idea of how difficult it actually is. The DIY makes it seem fairly easy to be honest, but I have learned in the past that these types of things are never what you expect.

I just wanted to get an idea from other people who have replaced their rack in the past, about how hard it is. Is this something I can do in a day just fine by myself? Should I have a friend help me with this? Anything special sections I need to pay extra attention to? I will be doing this at a Wrench-It-Center (rent out the space to work on your car) so I would prefer to not be there for too long if possible...

Thanks for any help on this.

[agart]

I recently bought a new steering rack and I plan on replacing it here in the next few weeks, but I wanted to get an idea of how difficult it actually is. The DIY makes it seem fairly easy to be honest, but I have learned in the past that these types of things are never what you expect.

I just wanted to get an idea from other people who have replaced their rack in the past, about how hard it is. Is this something I can do in a day just fine by myself? Should I have a friend help me with this? Anything special sections I need to pay extra attention to? I will be doing this at a Wrench-It-Center (rent out the space to work on your car) so I would prefer to not be there for too long if possible...

Thanks for any help on this.

I did this a couple weeks ago. Hardest part by far was wiggling it out. That was also the only part that I ended asking for some help from a friend. I supported it from under the car while he supported/pulled from the side through the wheel well. Keep in mind that the servotronic stuff does not apply to you. Also I would recommend following iamshayan's DIY advice of leaving the passenger side bolt in as a pivot point. It makes it much easier to access the fluid lines this way. Last advice I would have is to remove those fluid lines from underneath as opposed to through the wheel well. Just need a long extension and they are easily accessible.

[JEENYUS]

I did this a couple weeks ago. Hardest part by far was wiggling it out. That was also the only part that I ended asking for some help from a friend. I supported it from under the car while he supported/pulled from the side through the wheel well. Keep in mind that the servotronic stuff does not apply to you. Also I would recommend following iamshayan's DIY advice of leaving the passenger side bolt in as a pivot point. It makes it much easier to access the fluid lines this way. Last advice I would have is to remove those fluid lines from underneath as opposed to through the wheel well. Just need a long extension and they are easily accessible.

Thank I appreciate the advice. I see your car is a 1.8t; would this be different than the 3.0 steering rack?

[agart]

Thank I appreciate the advice. I see your car is a 1.8t; would this be different than the 3.0 steering rack?

I don't think so... I thought only the S4 had servotronic, hopefully someone can chime in to clear that up. Either way though, that just adds a clip that needs to be removed; the rest should still be the same.

[JEENYUS]

I don't think so... I thought only the S4 had servotronic, hopefully someone can chime in to clear that up. Either way though, that just adds a clip that needs to be removed; the rest should still be the same.

OK. how long did it take you to do it? did you have access to a lift?

[agart]

OK. how long did it take you to do it? did you have access to a lift?

Took me a total of 5-6 hours of work that I broke up over 2 days. No lift, on my back in the garage.

[JEENYUS]

Took me a total of 5-6 hours of work that I broke up over 2 days. No lift, on my back in the garage.

you are a bad ass. i will have a lift. i hope i can get this bitch taken care of.

[2003_a4]

I have a leaky seal somewhere dripping ever so slightly the last 3 months on the downpipe. This is next. Where are you getting yours? $?

[A4SF]

I'm going to be replacing my steering rack in the next week or two. Hopefully your replacement goes well. Please update the thread with any watchouts that you might encounter.

[2003_a4]

seems a lot more people than I thought are having to do this

[JEENYUS]

I have a leaky seal somewhere dripping ever so slightly the last 3 months on the downpipe. This is next. Where are you getting yours? $?

i bought mine off a member. It was a pretty good price. could have been a little cheaper, but if you want you can get an RS4 steering rack off a euro ebay for pretty cheap. i would look at that. i think the difference in a 16.2:1 and 13.1:1 steering ratio is worth it.

I'm going to be replacing my steering rack in the next week or two. Hopefully your replacement goes well. Please update the thread with any watchouts that you might encounter.

will do. Styleprojekt is going to help me replace it and i hope it goes smoothly and quick.

[jonsaudi]

Curious to know how it goes too. I've been refilling my leaking PS fluid as often as every 2 wks and my steering/handling has gotten sloppy. Need to be replaced asap, just haven't mustered up the time, energy, and funds to get around to it. Has anyone tried these guys out: http://shop.rackdoctor.net/2003-2004...95-25896-6.htm. Also, want to know if it's necessary to replace the tie rod ends even if it's still in good shape?

[agart]

Curious to know how it goes too. I've been refilling my leaking PS fluid as often as every 2 wks and my steering/handling has gotten sloppy. Need to be replaced asap, just haven't mustered up the time, energy, and funds to get around to it. Has anyone tried these guys out: http://shop.rackdoctor.net/2003-2004...95-25896-6.htm. Also, want to know if it's necessary to replace the tie rod ends even if it's still in good shape?

No need to replace your TREs if they are still in good condition. Got mine from rackdoctor but unfortunately had to forfeit the core charge because mine was rusted.

[jonsaudi]

No need to replace your TREs if they are still in good condition. Got mine from rackdoctor but unfortunately had to forfeit the core charge because mine was rusted.

Was the one from RackDoctor a rebuilt genuine Audi or OE equivalent?

[agart]

Was the one from RackDoctor a rebuilt genuine Audi or OE equivalent?

I actually don't know... it looked exactly like what I had, same cast and everything but I don't remember looking at the markings. FWIW it works great.

[n7plus1]

mines down too jeenyus...looks like we'll be doing ours around the same time. I havent ordered my replacement yet though, and 1.8t here. Shes just been sitting in the garage.

[Young SS]

I went with rack doctor for my 3.0 about year and half ago. new rack has worked fine ever since. took a look at that DIY listed for S4 but i dont remember removing the control arms at the top of the steering knuckle. i could be wrong. be patient when wiggling rack outta there. definitely had a friend help. Make sure that steering wheel is locked and centered b4 you start. I dont think any b6 a4s came with servos. but you may want to call rack doctor before you make your purchase. Theres more than 1 replacement steering rack. they recommend you test to see if you rack is magnetic or not (something like that). if magnet sticks, it one rack, if it doesn't its another. its may take a little time to completely bleed the system of air and get the rack to work. took me about 15-20 miles of driving to get fluid completely through the system. make sure you get that green can of pentosin green fluid. would be a great time to do a power steering flush after you finish. old brown fluid- bad, new green fluid- good for system.

[JEENYUS]

I went with rack doctor for my 3.0 about year and half ago. new rack has worked fine ever since. took a look at that DIY listed for S4 but i dont remember removing the control arms at the top of the steering knuckle. i could be wrong. be patient when wiggling rack outta there. definitely had a friend help. Make sure that steering wheel is locked and centered b4 you start. I dont think any b6 a4s came with servos. but you may want to call rack doctor before you make your purchase. Theres more than 1 replacement steering rack. they recommend you test to see if you rack is magnetic or not (something like that). if magnet sticks, it one rack, if it doesn't its another. its may take a little time to completely bleed the system of air and get the rack to work. took me about 15-20 miles of driving to get fluid completely through the system. make sure you get that green can of pentosin green fluid. would be a great time to do a power steering flush after you finish. old brown fluid- bad, new green fluid- good for system.

thanks for the heads-up on those things. My fluid is nice and green so that will save me some times by foregoing the flush.

[JEENYUS]

mines down too jeenyus...looks like we'll be doing ours around the same time. I havent ordered my replacement yet though, and 1.8t here. Shes just been sitting in the garage.

it's going to be a long day i'm sure.

[n7plus1]

yeah...if you were nearby we could help each other but we couldnt be any further, lol

[jonsaudi]

OP, have you got around to replacing your PS rack yet? Just curious how it turned out for you. Also, after reading the DIY link on this post, I'm not so sure what this means; "Center the rack. Remove the access bolt using a 12mm triple square socket. Align centering notch on gear with access port by turning the pinion then use a M10 – 1.5 pitch bolt to secure gear in place". Can anyone explain what this means? Thanks.

[Sam091990]

Remove this 12mm triple square bolt:


Then turn the rack until you come across this dimple:


Get your hands on a bolt like this (M10-1.5, get a shorter one though because mine was too long and I wasn't able to fit the rack back into the car with it):


And... profit!

[jonsaudi]

Right on. Thanks. I'm guessing this has to be done so that the PS rack is aligned and locked in place before bolting to the steering wheel, right?

[Sam091990]

That's correct.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

[akvanden]

You might think, why do I need this stupid centering bolt? the rack won't move on me during install. Wrong. It will. If you have a 1.8t though, you can stick your hand down through the top engine bay, stick a small pick/screw driver/etc in there, and have a buddy turn the rack by hand inside the cabin of the car until you feel it fall into the center position.

I may know this, because I thought the centering bolt wasn't needed.

[milan2k13]

What symptoms were you having that made you change it?

[MikTip]

You might think, why do I need this stupid centering bolt? the rack won't move on me during install. Wrong. It will. If you have a 1.8t though, you can stick your hand down through the top engine bay, stick a small pick/screw driver/etc in there, and have a buddy turn the rack by hand inside the cabin of the car until you feel it fall into the center position.

I may know this, because I thought the centering bolt wasn't needed.

I fabricated a centering bolt from a spare allen head bolt of the correct thread size by sharpening its end down with a grinder. Worked perfectly!

[akvanden]

What symptoms were you having that made you change it?

It was leaking p/s out the boot on the driver side.

[JEENYUS]

It was leaking p/s out the boot on the driver side.

surprisingly i have yet to tackle this job. I have been too lazy and not had time to take a whole day off or more than a whole day off to fix the rack. The RS4 rack i bought is just sittin' pretty on my patio.

[A4SF]

I just started my replacement yesterday. I kept putting it off until finally my rack just threw up PS fluid all over my garage. So I've slowly started to take it apart while I wait for the replacement to arrive from rackdoctor. For those that have completed this replacement, did you have to replace the banjo bolts? Is there an Audi part number for them?

[MikTip]

Shazam!

[JoshDub]

I need to do this as well on the 3.0. I am not looking forward to it.

[evo_ski]

I need to do this as well on the 3.0. I am not looking forward to it.

Let me know when you do it. I would be more than happy to come down and help out. I think I may be needing a rack replacement myself in the not too distant future and wouldn't mind watching/helping so mine will go easier.

[Charles.waite]

Let me know when you do it. I would be more than happy to come down and help out. I think I may be needing a rack replacement myself in the not too distant future and wouldn't mind watching/helping so mine will go easier.

You guys want to do a rack replacement 3-way? .............


That got weird...

[evo_ski]

You guys want to do a rack replacement 3-way? .............


That got weird...

I think there's enough rack to go around.

[JoshDub]

Let me know when you do it. I would be more than happy to come down and help out. I think I may be needing a rack replacement myself in the not too distant future and wouldn't mind watching/helping so mine will go easier.

Okay I will let you know. It will be before the end of the month.

[CardFan]

I just started my replacement yesterday. I kept putting it off until finally my rack just threw up PS fluid all over my garage. So I've slowly started to take it apart while I wait for the replacement to arrive from rackdoctor. For those that have completed this replacement, did you have to replace the banjo bolts? Is there an Audi part number for them?

I just did it a couple weeks ago. Very unlikely that you will have to replace the banjo bolts, and rack doctor provided replacement washers that go with the banjo bolts. Definitely replace the washers.

[Charles.waite]

Just be sure to pay attention so when one of you tow helps me with mine down the line you knwo what to do.

[akvanden]

I just did it a couple weeks ago. Very unlikely that you will have to replace the banjo bolts, and rack doctor provided replacement washers that go with the banjo bolts. Definitely replace the washers.

Use the same banjo bolts - as CardFan said, just ensure you use the new crush washers that are provided.

This really isn't a hard job ***IF*** you can gets your driver side control arm pinch bolt out easily - mine took me 7 hrs and finally came out after I decided to try using my snowmobile clutch puller ( essentially a ~ 2 ft long heavy duty punch ). Also, if you have the 1.8, utilize the extra space you have in the engine compartment and reach down through it after you've loosened the banjo bolts. As soon as they're loose, you should just be able to take them all the way off in a couple of minutes with only your fingers.

You WILL need help to reinstall.

Oh, and get new tie-rod ends while you're at it. You'll need an alignment when all is said and done so just replace them now. They're cheap.

[A4SF]

Thanks for the replies guys. I just replaced my TRE's less than a year ago, so they should still be good. The replacement rack should be arriving tomorrow. Hopefully all goes well.