HELP with new Facelift Shift Knob

[knucklehaedjcz]

I know you were joking, no problem. It's pretty intuitive as far as pushing the knob down. Once it is seated, the putton will "pop" into place. There is a chrome little collar on the original knob that you do not use. When I did mine, I wasn't sure if I was supposed to use it, but after looking at photos of others, I noticed that none of them had it. Can't wait until you get this done. it looks and feels worlds above the stock knob.

[knucklehaedjcz]

Hey TGreene09, did you get the shift knob issues worked out? Let's see some pics!

[tboooe]

Just bought mine from Alex. Got a heat gun with focus attachment. Still working on getting the nerve! Lol. Getting pumped to do this.

[knucklehaedjcz]

Did you go with the smooth or perforated? I'm excited for you, I know you have been wanting to do this for quite some time.

[tboooe]

I got the smooth as I prefer that look more. May try this in the next few days since it should not take too long to be delivered. I will let you know how it goes.

Sent from my XT910 using Tapatalk 2

[if6ws9]

Just bought mine from Alex. Got a heat gun with focus attachment. Still working on getting the nerve! Lol. Getting pumped to do this.

Everyone that did this mod was nervous, I was nervous! It'll be easier than you think. Protect your surrounding area with towels, heat, twist, take a break, heat, twist, take a break... Don't use a heavy tool like a vice grip, use something a bit smaller that will give you a "feel" for what's happening with the plastic shaft (like needle nose pliers with cross hatch grooves for grip). Keep moderate but firm pressure on the shaft as you are heating it and within a minute or so you'll feel the plastic start to give. Don't rush it, take your time. The plastic shaft is more durable than it looks so don't be afraid to use whatever amount of strength that you "feel" you'll need to twist it. The same goes for the heat setting on the gun; it will probably require a higher setting than the gun's instructions suggest for heating plastic. Start at the recommended heat setting and move up as you "feel" that you'll need to. Think I'm using the word "feel" a bit much? Well, I think that it's key to doing this mod; you're going to think like an artist not a brute. Remember to put some of the white grease in and around the top of the plastic shaft before you install the shift knob. Best of luck and if you have any questions let me know.

[tboooe]

Everyone that did this mod was nervous, I was nervous! It'll be easier than you think. Protect your surrounding area with towels, heat, twist, take a break, heat, twist, take a break... Don't use a heavy tool like a vice grip, use something a bit smaller that will give you a "feel" for what's happening with the plastic shaft (like needle nose pliers with cross hatch grooves for grip). Keep moderate but firm pressure on the shaft as you are heating it and within a minute or so you'll feel the plastic start to give. Don't rush it, take your time. The plastic shaft is more durable than it looks so don't be afraid to use whatever amount of strength that you "feel" you'll need to twist it. The same goes for the heat setting on the gun; it will probably require a higher setting than the gun's instructions suggest for heating plastic. Start at the recommended heat setting and move up as you "feel" that you'll need to. Think I'm using the word "feel" a bit much? Well, I think that it's key to doing this mod; you're going to think like an artist not a brute. Remember to put some of the white grease in and around the top of the plastic shaft before you install the shift knob. Best of luck and if you have any questions let me know.

Thank you for the advice and the offer for help. Between you and knucklehead I am in good hands.

[if6ws9]

Thank you for the advice and the offer for help. Between you and knucklehead I am in good hands.

Your welcome. Something else: be mindful that the pliers will get hot, when that happens take a break. I'd advise against wearing gloves to protect your hands (you probably guessed, there's that "feel" thing again). Also, there's a bit of play to the shaft so when you're twisting it it'll be a bit difficult (at first) to discern whether you're just turning past the play or actually twisting. Keep the heat on it , moving the tip of the gun up and down the exposed section of the plastic shaft and twist in small, definate increments. I don't mean to complicate things or cause worry, I'm just recalling things that I wish I knew were ok when I was doing it. It's just something to be aware of.

[tboooe]

Ok did the mod. Like others my button won't pop out. I am continuing to sand the slot but frankly I am getting a little worried there is not much material left. The top portion of the shaft does not seem as strong as I would prefer. I am going to fashion a new slotted piece out of abs or nylon and attach it to the shaft with a grub screw and some epoxy. I would rather do this and be sure versus having the top part of shaft snap off. Stay tuned.

[Got No Game]

Ok did the mod. Like others my button won't pop out. I am continuing to sand the slot but frankly I am getting a little worried there is not much material left. The top portion of the shaft does not seem as strong as I would prefer. I am going to fashion a new slotted piece out of abs or nylon and attach it to the shaft with a grub screw and some epoxy. I would rather do this and be sure versus having the top part of shaft snap off. Stay tuned.

Sounds like a porn shoot gone bad.

[Mops@Nemesis]

Sounds like a porn shoot gone bad.

Lol, I read this before Tommy's post. Even better. He had me at shaft.

[if6ws9]

Ok did the mod. Like others my button won't pop out. I am continuing to sand the slot but frankly I am getting a little worried there is not much material left. The top portion of the shaft does not seem as strong as I would prefer. I am going to fashion a new slotted piece out of abs or nylon and attach it to the shaft with a grub screw and some epoxy. I would rather do this and be sure versus having the top part of shaft snap off. Stay tuned.

Did you put some of the grease in and around the slot?

[Mops@Nemesis]

^Ohhhh baby, you guys are pushing it

[tboooe]

Did you put some of the grease in and around the slot?

I did. What I noticed was that the pin was rubbing on the left side of the slot. When I heated the pin again to bend it bit in that direction, I compromised the material on the right side of the slot. The entire slot now is not as stiff (mop contain yourself). It flexes a bit. That is why I am going to make a new top part and reattach with the grub screw method. It will give me more peace of mind.

[if6ws9]

I did. What I noticed was that the pin was rubbing on the left side of the slot. When I heated the pin again to bend it bit in that direction, I compromised the material on the right side of the slot. The entire slot now is not as stiff (mop contain yourself). It flexes a bit. That is why I am going to make a new top part and reattach with the grub screw method. It will give me more peace of mind.

Ok, it's just that a lot of effort is put into getting the shaft twisted so that it's facing perfectly straight forward and while it does need to be facing forward it doesn't have to be perfect. The button not popping out is not that bad of a thing because with time it will start to pop out and the grease helps with all that. It sucks when something turns out to be more complicated than it should; I had that happen to me recently with the Alu Kruez. Good luck with the grub screw mod, others have done that.

[tboooe]

The button not popping out is not that bad of a thing because with time it will start to pop out and the grease helps with all that. It sucks when something turns out to be more complicated than it should; I had that happen to me recently with the Alu Kruez. Good luck with the grub screw mod, others have done that.

Well that's good to hear that with time the button may pop out. I just took a look at the pin and it looks dead on straight to me. I am not sure what part is binding.

I don't mind the extra effort. I went into this mod knowing that it may not be entirely straightforward. The grub screw mod won't be too bad. I can get abs or nylon rods for less than a dollar. Slotting it out won't be too bad. I prefer to do this extra step and have some piece of mind.

Thank you and knucklehead for the advice and input.

[knucklehaedjcz]

Well that's good to hear that with time the button may pop out. I just took a look at the pin and it looks dead on straight to me. I am not sure what part is binding.

I don't mind the extra effort. I went into this mod knowing that it may not be entirely straightforward. The grub screw mod won't be too bad. I can get abs or nylon rods for less than a dollar. Slotting it out won't be too bad. I prefer to do this extra step and have some piece of mind.

Thank you and knucklehead for the advice and input.

Sorry to hear this. I really hoped this would go smooth for you. A note as to the button popping out in time - mine did exactly that. If you notice in the pics I posted in this thread, the button was out about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way out. When I first installed it, it was not out at all. I also never greased it.Friday night I took the knob off to swap it with the perforated knob, and the same thing happened - knob won't pop back out. I believe that in time, it will push out just like the last one. I am gonna go tomorrow and get some grease to see if that helps. Maybe give it a few days. It won't hurt anything. You can still go through the gears, and you can't knock it into reverse without the brake pressed anyway. Although, your ocd may not allow for the wait. Just a thought.

[knucklehaedjcz]

Also make sure the pin is not binding in the up and down motion from burrs created from the twist.

[if6ws9]

...I am gonna go tomorrow and get some grease to see if that helps...

I'm not sure about the type of grease but there's some already around the base of the shifting mechanism, you can take a bit of that to use on the tip of the plastic shaft.

[tboooe]

Also make sure the pin is not binding in the up and down motion from burrs created from the twist.

Mine is definitely not binding because I did the twist in Park where the pin is at its lowest point so I was only heating the area that never retracts into the metal sleeve. This may have been my downfall though as my heat gun ended up too close to the slot. I think this is what ultimately weakened the side walls of the slot.

Although, your ocd may not allow for the wait. Just a thought.

You are right, I can definitely use it but in this case my chicken sh&t nature is overriding my ocdness. I am nervous the top part of the pin will snap off inside the shift knob. So to be safe I am just going to do the grub screw mod. I should be getting everything I need this week. In retrospect, this was the way I wanted to do it in the first place.

I'm not sure about the type of grease but there's some already around the base of the shifting mechanism, you can take a bit of that to use on the tip of the plastic shaft.

The grease that's there looks like lithium grease. I bought a tube from Home Depot for $3.

[knucklehaedjcz]

I'm not sure about the type of grease but there's some already around the base of the shifting mechanism, you can take a bit of that to use on the tip of the plastic shaft.

I looked Friday night, but there was only trace amounts of grease. Not enough to use for anything. Thanks though.

[if6ws9]

Mine is definitely not binding because I did the twist in Park where the pin is at its lowest point so I was only heating the area that never retracts into the metal sleeve. This may have been my downfall though as my heat gun ended up too close to the slot. I think this is what ultimately weakened the side walls of the slot.



You are right, I can definitely use it but in this case my chicken sh&t nature is overriding my ocdness. I am nervous the top part of the pin will snap off inside the shift knob. So to be safe I am just going to do the grub screw mod. I should be getting everything I need this week. In retrospect, this was the way I wanted to do it in the first place.



The grease that's there looks like lithium grease. I bought a tube from Home Depot for $3.

You may be right about the area that you heated (close to the slot). I shifted into neutral, pulled up on the plastic just below the slot and heated the exposed area (that was below the slot). The twist was spread out fairly evenly over the exposed part of the shaft. I wasn't that concerned about burrs because I thought that once the pin is in the slot, the mechanism is strong enough (even if the shaft wasn't smooth) to pull up on the plastic shaft as it's moving through the gear selections. I didn't think that burrs on the shaft would be as much of a concern as the proper functioning of the pin through the slot. I know that others emphasized the burr issue but given the strength of the mechanism it didn't seem logical that it would cause a problem, IMHO.

[TGreene09]

Hey TGreene09, did you get the shift knob issues worked out? Let's see some pics!

Working on it today! Had the unfortunes of the flu burden me for a few weeks...

[TGreene09]

well it still doesnt work. I had two friends over that are well knowledged in the German car world. They were stumbled and could not figure it out at all. Heres the problem:

the shifter trigger is popped in and we have been popping it back out but now it wont stay out. Also, after numerous numerous tries we still cant get the pin to connect within the opening. We measured and its been set to perfectly be where it should be....

Any suggestions?? Ive done my own exhaust installation, springs, wheels, carbonio intake.. This is by far the most frustrating.

[if6ws9]

well it still doesnt work. I had two friends over that are well knowledged in the German car world. They were stumbled and could not figure it out at all. Heres the problem:

the shifter trigger is popped in and we have been popping it back out but now it wont stay out. Also, after numerous numerous tries we still cant get the pin to connect within the opening. We measured and its been set to perfectly be where it should be....

Any suggestions?? Ive done my own exhaust installation, springs, wheels, carbonio intake.. This is by far the most frustrating.

I've been where you are at times - it frustrating. I'm a little unclear about something. Your first comment is:

the shifter trigger is popped in and we have been popping it back out but now it wont stay out

I take this to mean that the pin is connecting with the opening but not popping out on it's own. Your second comment seems to contradict that. Can you clarify?

[TGreene09]

Ya sorry, Coffee hadnt kicked in yet. The knob trigger wont come back out and stay out. It keeps snapping back to the "in" position. Before, When i was placing it on the shaft it wouldnt engage at all. The trigger would just snap in without touching the shaft which makes me think that the metal tab you can visibly see down the knob hole is hitting on something on the shaft. But now Im stuck with the knob trigger engaged.

[if6ws9]

Ya sorry, Coffee hadnt kicked in yet. The knob trigger wont come back out and stay out. It keeps snapping back to the "in" position. Before, When i was placing it on the shaft it wouldnt engage at all. The trigger would just snap in without touching the shaft which makes me think that the metal tab you can visibly see down the knob hole is hitting on something on the shaft. But now Im stuck with the knob trigger engaged.

Ok, first question: did you put some of the white (lithium?) grease on the top of the plastic shaft? If not, there's some around the base of the shift mechanism. Using your finger take a small amount of it off the base and put it on the top of the plastic shaft and push some through the slot. A pea sized amount will suffice. Because the heating/twisting is done by eye the pin and slot are not easy to perfectly align but that should be ok. As long as the pin can go into the slot without too much effort, things should work out. If the slot isn't perfectly aligned with the pin the button will, with use and over time, eventually start to pop out on it's own. The grease will help with this.

If the pin isn't going into the slot at all or it's very difficult for it t go in then you might need to do some more heating and twisting. Also, if at any time the button was pushed all the way in when it was not seated on the plastic shaft then you will need to reset it. The shift knob can go only so far down the plastic shaft (it can't be pushed too far) so when you seat it on top of the shaft hit it smartly with your palm. When it can't go any further then it's seated properly. Only when you're sure of the seating should you press the button.

If after all this the button still doesn't pop out it's still not the end of the world. You'll still be able to move through the gear selections but you won't have to push in the button to go from D to R. even if the button is only slightly functional you'll still have to push the button in (what little it can be pushed) to go into D and out of P but you won't have and major problems. Again, if the button & slot are not perfectly aligned, over time and use things will loosen up. Keep me posted.

[tboooe]

the shifter trigger is popped in and we have been popping it back out but now it wont stay out. Also, after numerous numerous tries we still cant get the pin to connect within the opening. We measured and its been set to perfectly be where it should be....

I am not an expert but if the trigger is not fully popped out and staying out on its own I dont think the shift knob can go down as far as it needs it. I believe the base the knob needs to be at the second line on the metal shift shaft. Are you able to seat the knob that far down?

[if6ws9]

I am not an expert but if the trigger is not fully popped out and staying out on its own I dont think the shift knob can go down as far as it needs it. I believe the base the knob needs to be at the second line on the metal shift shaft. Are you able to seat the knob that far down?

Your right, it needs to be seated all the way. I’m no expert either but to the best of my ability to explain it, this is what I observed ( “gated”, “free” and “open” are my words, they’re not official terms):

Depressing the button moves the pin into the hole in the plastic shaft. Holding the button temporarily locks the pin into the shaft. This locking allows the shaft to be moved into an elevated position which in turn enables “gated” gear selections like P, R and S.

After moving out of a gated gear selection, the button can be released and the shifter can move through “open” gear selections (N, D). To move back into a gated gear selection the button will need to be depressed.

If the pin doesn't fully retract it keeps the shaft in a “free” position, allowing it to move not only through N and D but from D into R without having to hold the button. However, even if it is in the free position, to move from R into P the button must be fully depressed and held. The reason for this is because with a stuck pin the button still isn't fully depressed. Added and sustained pressure on the button is required for the pin to lift the shaft from R into P.

The point: if the pin is angled slightly against the hole it will rub against the inside wall of the hole and prevent the button from fully releasing. If the button does get hung up inside the hole, the shifter will still function but it will be in the free position. Over time and use the pin seems to move more freely inside of the hole.

If you notice anything that may not be accurate in the above please let it be known. I'm trying to help not take a position.

p.s. please take note of the edit time (5:03) if you read this post before that edit time please re read it as important changes were made.

[knucklehaedjcz]

I'm annoyed with mine at the moment. Like I mentioned earlier, the last knob I had on seemed to work the button out on it's own after a while. I put a new one on (perforated instead of smooth) and the button is totally stuck in. I sanded a little at the bottom of the opening as I thought that might be where it was binding (from info in another thread). I also greased it. Button still not releasing. The frustrating part is just not knowing when it is getting caught on the inside. I don't want to sand the sides anymore as they are already pretty thin. Gonna try sanding some more at the bottom as I don't see how that could hurt anything. Hopefully, in the worst case scenario, this one will work itself out as well, but would reallt like to figure out where it's binding. Any ideas on how to tell?

[tboooe]

I'm annoyed with mine at the moment. Like I mentioned earlier, the last knob I had on seemed to work the button out on it's own after a while. I put a new one on (perforated instead of smooth) and the button is totally stuck in. I sanded a little at the bottom of the opening as I thought that might be where it was binding (from info in another thread). I also greased it. Button still not releasing. The frustrating part is just not knowing when it is getting caught on the inside. I don't want to sand the sides anymore as they are already pretty thin. Gonna try sanding some more at the bottom as I don't see how that could hurt anything. Hopefully, in the worst case scenario, this one will work itself out as well, but would reallt like to figure out where it's binding. Any ideas on how to tell?

One idea is to use a water based marker and color the top portion of the pin. Then when you put the knob on, you will see where there is friction based on where the marker ink rubbed off. Another option is to just glob on a bunch of grease so that it completely fills the slot. I did this and could see that the the knob was binding on the left side of the slot.

[knucklehaedjcz]

Good idea, I will give it a try. Thank you sir!

[if6ws9]

Good idea, I will give it a try. Thank you sir!

Are you sure there's nothing wrong with the shift knob's inner mechanism?

[knucklehaedjcz]

Are you sure there's nothing wrong with the shift knob's inner mechanism?

It is brand new. It seems fine. When I pull it back off, the button returns to the out position like it had never been installed. My previous knob was like this at first, & then one day I noticed that it wouldn't go out of park, that's when I realized that the button had come out about 3/4 of the way. The one that I just took off actually had internal mech issues (i screwed up the mechanism that keeps the button in the out postion when not installed, but it still worked.)

[Got No Game]

The fact that multiple smart people are having the exact same problem seems to point to a design/manufacturing flaw with the knob itself.

[knucklehaedjcz]

The fact that multiple smart people are having the exact same problem seems to point to a design/manufacturing flaw with the knob itself.

I detect a bit of sarcasm there I assume that the issue is trying to make something work that it wasn't really intended for. It would be interesting to see a photo of the FL pin to see if there are any differences with the positioning or size of the hole in the shift pin. When I looked at all of the previous threads that others had done regarding this, it seemed pretty straight forward. Apparently, we are not as smart as we thought we were.

[tboooe]

I detect a bit of sarcasm there I assume that the issue is trying to make something work that it wasn't really intended for. It would be interesting to see a photo of the FL pin to see if there are any differences with the positioning or size of the hole in the shift pin. When I looked at all of the previous threads that others had done regarding this, it seemed pretty straight forward. Apparently, we are not as smart as we thought we were.

According to my wife we are definitely not smart for potentially bricking our cars! That being said, I think this shift knob is very sensitive to the position of the slot. Once I get all the parts I need to recreate the top portion with the set screw, I am going to play around with the angle of the slot. I know everyone says it has to be 100% perfectly facing forward, but I think actually it needs to be slightly angled facing left of center. Anyway, will play around and report back.

Isnt modding fun! (believe it or not I actually enjoy this challenge). I guess I am pretty demented.

[if6ws9]

According to my wife we are definitely not smart for potentially bricking our cars! That being said, I think this shift knob is very sensitive to the position of the slot. Once I get all the parts I need to recreate the top portion with the set screw, I am going to play around with the angle of the slot. I know everyone says it has to be 100% perfectly facing forward, but I think actually it needs to be slightly angled facing left of center. Anyway, will play around and report back.

Isnt modding fun! (believe it or not I actually enjoy this challenge). I guess I am pretty demented.

You may have something there as mine was slightly left of center. I stressing enough heating and twisting and I didn't want to get anal about the positioning so once I got it almost there I let it be. As I said earlier, at first the button was sticking (but functional) but after a couple of weeks it started popping out just fine. Yes, modding is fun but it's very frustrating when someone is asking for help and you know something should work, has worked for you and others and it isn't working as expected for them. BTW, my wife thinks that compared to the majority of car owners we're part of a new demographic - the top 1% of the measurably demented. Good luck with the grub screw, I'm interested in how things work out.

[Got No Game]

I detect a bit of sarcasm there I assume that the issue is trying to make something work that it wasn't really intended for. It would be interesting to see a photo of the FL pin to see if there are any differences with the positioning or size of the hole in the shift pin. When I looked at all of the previous threads that others had done regarding this, it seemed pretty straight forward. Apparently, we are not as smart as we thought we were.

Honestly, not at all. I was being serious. Clearly you guys are working hard at getting this thing to work. I was just saying that it's clear this is not your first mod and this seems like it should be a relatively straightforward job. The fact that everyone who has attempted to do this has run into the same problems seems to point to a bit of a faulty product. Anyway, good luck!

[knucklehaedjcz]

Sorry about that. I guess I was being a bit sensitive. It's hard to tell sometimes on forums. In that case, I agree with you. Definitely a design fault!