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  1. #81
    Veteran Member Four Rings PNW Avant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NuVega View Post
    You can do it that way, however you'll probably end up adjusting each knob to align up with your point on the wall a few times. If you adjust the outer screw for horizontal, and then both the screws for vertical, then you won't be interfering with the other adjustment.
    Ahh I still don't get this. So, you turn the horizontal adjuster (outer screw) until you are in the desired position, then you turn BOTH the veritcal and horizontal adjusters at the SAME TIME? And this is supposed to prevent the horizontal adjustment from moving away from your previous adjustment? How does that work if you are actually turning the adjuster? It just sounds like it would move OUT of adjustment...what am I missing here?
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  2. #82
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    I am still confused on the aiming screws as well. I just fired up my computer power supply connected to a housing in my house and shot it on the wall and marked the cutoff. I am not sure how turning two screws at the same time changes anything. From what I saw the outer screw would move the aim up and down but didn't seem to change the side to side movement at all. I started with one set of tape lines, then adjusted the light up higher and made some new tape lines. Then, I adjusted the inner screw and it shifted the light side to side, but didn't seem to affect the tilt horizontally or change the height of the output at all. I am still trying to learn the proper way to adjust these, as I must be confusing myself or doing something wrong here.

    The housings on my car right now are a little bit off still and the cutoffs don't sit completely flat. I would like to be able to fix that but I still am trying to figure out how. I may just need to tilt the projector inside the actual housing slightly. Either that or the mounts for the headlights in my actual car are not completely flat, which very well could be the case.

  3. #83
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20vturbo View Post
    Do you think using some clear silicone would fix it better in there or even urethane, That part is hidden if I am correct...
    I personally think the headlight film or something similar is the best solution for that piece. This picture is with the stock lens since the STI ones are already mounted in my car, but basically you can see that all you are looking to do is make the glass lens the exact same size as the metal ring that locks it in the lens holder. Then once the lens and the holder are put back together there is no gap for the tape to fall out. I think it would be pretty tough to get some clear silicone or something similar to make up the difference while keeping the lens spaced equally from all sides to keep it in the middle. The STI lenses are only about 2-3mm smaller in diameter, so just a couple wraps of tape can easily take up that space. I will probably have some leftover headlight film so if people are interested in doing this mod and can't find something that will work to make that lens fit snug in the holder I would be willing to mail some strips of that stuff out.




  4. #84
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuattroRocket View Post
    Thats exactly what I imagined, now does anyone have a clue what the size of the o-ring is ? I bought a little variety pack at Home Depot and not one comes close !
    There are several larger O rings that will seal the adjuster. The best O ring will actually be either a slightly smaller ID with a thicker crossection, or the same ID with a thicker cross secton of the O ring material. The thicker cross section and smaller ID requires the O ring to stretch when placed onto the adjuster shaft. To lube the tighter fitting O ring with the adjuster shaft installed in the housing, I recommend using powdered graphite, that will prevent the O ring from sticking, and allow the adjuster to be turned as needed.
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  5. #85
    Veteran Member Four Rings PNW Avant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evo_ski View Post
    I am still confused on the aiming screws as well. I just fired up my computer power supply connected to a housing in my house and shot it on the wall and marked the cutoff. I am not sure how turning two screws at the same time changes anything. From what I saw the outer screw would move the aim up and down but didn't seem to change the side to side movement at all. I started with one set of tape lines, then adjusted the light up higher and made some new tape lines. Then, I adjusted the inner screw and it shifted the light side to side, but didn't seem to affect the tilt horizontally or change the height of the output at all. I am still trying to learn the proper way to adjust these, as I must be confusing myself or doing something wrong here.

    The housings on my car right now are a little bit off still and the cutoffs don't sit completely flat. I would like to be able to fix that but I still am trying to figure out how. I may just need to tilt the projector inside the actual housing slightly. Either that or the mounts for the headlights in my actual car are not completely flat, which very well could be the case.
    Mounts for the headlights are adjustable via 2 screws on each mounting plate. They have to be adjusted when the housings are out of the car, and from my experience, your bumper limits how much movement you have anyways. I definitely don't fully understand the housing mounting plate, but it is indeed adjustable.

    Also, FYI I ordered the lenses yesterday! Dibs on some of that extra 3M stuff
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  6. #86
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    Oh nice! That should be perfect as long as I can squeak out a little bit of movement between both housings I should be able to get them perfect. They are only about 2-3 degrees off from each other. I will take a look and let everyone know what I find out since I am sure other people will run into that same issue with the cutoff being sharper now.

    I will definitely save some of that film for you. My second 3m headlight film application didn't work as well, so I might have to order a new sheet to redo that light for the second time....

  7. #87
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Wow! And have to say again Wow! That was an awesome write-up. Thanks!

    Haven't been here in a while but popped in to research on retrofitting and found your thread. I don't have bi-xenons but am just thinking of retrofitting the FX-R projectors onto my spare halogen housings. Been thinking about it but the only thing holding me back is that I don't want to pry the headlight housing apart. I have the Valeo ballasts and D1S now on my oem xenon housings but also have D2S and ignitors so I can use them on the FX-R

    From your write-up though, don't think I have to do that, since the projectors can be removed from the back side. Now gonna have to take out the housings from storage and remove the stock projectors.

    Thanks again.
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  8. #88
    Veteran Member Three Rings the sheriff's Avatar
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    evo_ski - any issues getting your bi-xenon's installed all the way? there is so little room on the driver side, it's been really difficult to get it to sit in there flush.
    SOLD 03 1.8T A4 Avant 5MTQ.....and already missed!!

  9. #89
    Veteran Member Four Rings 20vturbo's Avatar
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    I also ordered the lenses and will by attacking this soon...
    About the leveling, did you check if the car is completely level, I would use a bubble leveler to check that, it is almost impossible that a surface will be completely level side to side.
    The brackets for the lights are adjustable but the screws are covered by the lights, you can put the lights on without the bumper and adjust them but then there will be no room to tighten the 3 screws that connect the bumper to the fender, you may probably be able to do that by removing the grill and foglights but still very tight space and hard to adjust the bumper after.
    For me if I get both lights to be at the same level is enough, I am not gonna mess more with it
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  10. #90
    Veteran Member Three Rings SKIDMRK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evo_ski View Post
    It was so funny I had a buddy come in to work one day who I am always talking about different car mods and all kinds of stuff with and he was like "man there was this guy last night on the freeway who had the most insane fog lights, they were seriously like lighting up the entire freeway." I was just like "was it a red audi?" and he goes "yep" and I just smiled. That got my buddy to order up a set of projector fogs that same day hahahaha.
    too funny. watch out for my 4runner too. it got the same foglight treatment and will be getting a projector bi-xenon retrofit soon. lighting should be similar to the audi's once finished.

    http://www.epitomewerks.com/skidmrk/...s/IMGP0513.jpg

    http://www.epitomewerks.com/skidmrk/...1/IMGP5139.JPG
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  11. #91
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the sheriff View Post
    evo_ski - any issues getting your bi-xenon's installed all the way? there is so little room on the driver side, it's been really difficult to get it to sit in there flush.
    I can take a picture of what I am talking about, but when you try to push it in it will hit that one really large connector and you just need to pop that out and rest it on top of the headlight. That is the only thing that got in the way for me, but it was an easy fix.

    Quote Originally Posted by francis_a View Post
    I have the Valeo ballasts and D1S now on my oem xenon housings but also have D2S and ignitors so I can use them on the FX-R
    Thanks again.
    No problem, with the amount of knowledge and money I have saved from other peoples DIY's on here I really felt the need to contribute something back even if it is something small like this. DEFINITELY post pics when you are done if you end up getting FXR's to fit. That would be awesome. Good luck!

    Quote Originally Posted by 20vturbo View Post
    I also ordered the lenses and will by attacking this soon...
    About the leveling, did you check if the car is completely level, I would use a bubble leveler to check that, it is almost impossible that a surface will be completely level side to side.
    The brackets for the lights are adjustable but the screws are covered by the lights, you can put the lights on without the bumper and adjust them but then there will be no room to tighten the 3 screws that connect the bumper to the fender, you may probably be able to do that by removing the grill and foglights but still very tight space and hard to adjust the bumper after.
    For me if I get both lights to be at the same level is enough, I am not gonna mess more with it
    Nice, definitely feel free to hit me up or post in this thread if you have any questions and I would be more than happy to help you out. If you can't find anything that will work to space that lens in the bulb holder hit me up and I can mail you some of that 3M film that I used as well.

    As far as my aim one sits pretty flat but the right one is tilted slightly. All I am looking to do is make both of them even, not really looking to try to make them sit perfectly level with the ground since it will always be changing with the load in the car, suspension adjustments etc. But yeah, hopefully I will have time to tackle that tomorrow and post up some before and after shots as well as some tips to level that out since I guarantee everyone else will run into that problem to some extent as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by SKIDMRK View Post
    too funny. watch out for my 4runner too. it got the same foglight treatment and will be getting a projector bi-xenon retrofit soon. lighting should be similar to the audi's once finished.

    http://www.epitomewerks.com/skidmrk/...s/IMGP0513.jpg

    http://www.epitomewerks.com/skidmrk/...1/IMGP5139.JPG
    Nice! Yeah, I have seen your 4runner once before. I mainly recognized it from the aero rack on the roof, that thing is awesome! That runner with that light setup would be so nice. I can't wait until I can order up those Micro DE's. Before I started researching all this stuff after I bought the Passat projectors I used I just though a projector was a projector. But from cruising HIDplanet it looks like you had done your homework since those are the best fogs you can get. Their brightness and width are incredible, and now after doing some of this stuff the upgrade bug has hit me and I of course now need the best fogs too haha.

  12. #92
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    well if you sell your current fogs let me know, I'll gladly buy them off you!
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  13. #93
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    Absolutely, if you are interested I will sell you the whole kit, bulbs +projectors and a spare projector. Shoot me a pm and we can figure it out!

  14. #94
    Veteran Member Four Rings 20vturbo's Avatar
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    I just got an email from trs the sti lenses are backorder
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  15. #95
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    Ah, laaaaaame. Here is another spot you can order those up from as well.

  16. #96
    Veteran Member Four Rings MmmBoost's Avatar
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    I think I got the last set

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  17. #97
    Veteran Member Four Rings 20vturbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MmmBoost View Post
    I think I got the last set
    Yeah I got that one too, on the 25th they said it's shipped, today I got an email that they are backordered
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  18. #98
    Veteran Member Four Rings 20vturbo's Avatar
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    would the mazda ones fit???
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  19. #99
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    They more than likely would but the focal point is different so i have no idea how the light output would compare.

    Thats cool so many people ordered though.

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  20. #100
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    What an outstanding write up! Sorry I missed it earlier but I haven't been online much lately.

    For anyone changing out projector assemblies here's a little something I found helpful when changing out mine: If you are starting with Halogen projectors the projector is held in with three nut/stud connections. If you grind off the fourth corner of the assembly where there is no nut/stud connection you will be able to remove/install the projector without jacking the adjustment screws around so much for clearance.

    Again, outstanding work!
    Last edited by old guy; 10-28-2011 at 04:59 PM.
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  21. #101
    Senior Member Three Rings diplomat128's Avatar
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    That's a really detailed DIY. But it's not what I would call the Ultimate Headlight Upgrade. Especially if you look at G-Bus' retrofit he did on his B6 back in 2009. FX projectors w/ clear lens, 50w ballasts with Philipps 85122+ bulbs, 35w 3000k HID's for the fog lights. That was a hell of an upgrade... the glorious days...
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  22. #102
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by diplomat128 View Post
    That's a really detailed DIY. But it's not what I would call the Ultimate Headlight Upgrade. Especially if you look at G-Bus' retrofit he did on his B6 back in 2009. FX projectors w/ clear lens, 50w ballasts with Philipps 85122+ bulbs, 35w 3000k HID's for the fog lights. That was a hell of an upgrade... the glorious days...


    Damn kids...


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  23. #103
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    What an outstanding write up!
    Thanks a lot! Everyone on here is always helping me out with something or other, so I am just trying to give a little back where I can.

    Quote Originally Posted by diplomat128 View Post
    That's a really detailed DIY. But it's not what I would call the Ultimate Headlight Upgrade. Especially if you look at G-Bus' retrofit he did on his B6 back in 2009. FX projectors w/ clear lens, 50w ballasts with Philipps 85122+ bulbs, 35w 3000k HID's for the fog lights. That was a hell of an upgrade... the glorious days...
    Hmm, I can't seem to find his retrofit for the headlights, but I do see the fogs he did. The only reason I didn't go for FXR's is because my housings were made for a 3 inch lens and the FX is a 2.5 so I would have had a quarter inch of gap between my shroud and the projector all around. I like the black housings of the S4's and don't want to get into ripping a set apart and Joey modding them, so I went this route. I agree it is definitely not as much performance as an FX, but at least it is significantly better than stock. I also felt like most people wouldn't be as inclined to do a full on retrofit and hacking up a set of housings, but people would be pumped to drop $50 and a couple hours and have better light. "Ultimate" was more in the sense of the fact that it referred to all parts of the headlight, not just the projector since I covered refurbing your dinged up housings, stopping them from leaking, and retrofitting clear lenses. More of a consolidation of 3 or 4 separate threads.

    Thanks for the response though man, I appreciate it!

  24. #104
    Senior Member Three Rings diplomat128's Avatar
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    Oh ok I see, no problem man, respect for anyone who posts DIY's, especially as detailed as yours.
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  25. #105
    Veteran Member Three Rings Trev's Avatar
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    Great write up

    It inspired me to finally get a set and tackle this. Stumbled on a set of US Bi-Xenons for $56!!!! (came with a broken adjuster though, but easily fixed after i figured it out).

    - Disassembled the housings
    - Resealed around the outside lens (black RTV)
    - New oversize O-rings on adjuster screws
    - Cleaned the inside of housings (ammonia and distilled water)
    - Refinished the out side of the lenses (600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, & PlasticX). Tried the 3M kit but didn't work worth a shit for me...
    - Covered lenses with optically clear UV blocking film (similar to laminex. But used to laminate vehicle graphics)
    - Clear 3" STi-R lenses
    - DDM 55w 5000k HID's
    - Going to see if i can modify some Philips 65w HIR 9011 halogen bulbs for the HighBeams. http://hirheadlights.com/

    Will try and get some pics of: single xenon > Bi-xenon (fresnel lens) > Bi-xenon (clear STi-R lens).

    Almost done, just waiting on HID bulbs and ballasts which should be here this week. STi-R lenses are in just need to pick them up and install them.
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  26. #106
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trev View Post
    Will try and get some pics of: single xenon > Bi-xenon (fresnel lens) > Bi-xenon (clear STi-R lens).
    Please do!

    I'll probably tackle this mod sometime in the new year. The holidays really sap my available funds (which is really close to nothing anyway) and I don't really have an excuse to do this. Yet...
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  27. #107
    Veteran Member Three Rings agart's Avatar
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    Tackled this project the past week and have to say it is FAR better than the fresnel lenses. Two issues I've run into: 1) It seems my bi-xenon cutoff on the driver's side will not retract entirely to it's normal position after the lights have been on for longer than 5 minutes. Although it's not full on highbeam output it still is a pretty bad glare for oncoming traffic. Looking into fixing this tonight... 2) Same issue that the sheriff is having. There's a wire loom with 3-4 sets of wires coming from inside the fender above the windshield washer reservoir that hits the outer edge of the ballast. Those wires are too tight and can't be moved out of the way. There is a piece of sheet metal that sticks out behind them that I plan to cut a notch into using a dremel. I didn't see anything mounted near that area that would be affected by cutting a small piece out but I'll be double checking before I begin.
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  28. #108
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trev View Post
    Stumbled on a set of US Bi-Xenons for $56!!!! (came with a broken adjuster though, but easily fixed after i figured it out).

    - Going to see if i can modify some Philips 65w HIR 9011 halogen bulbs for the HighBeams. http://hirheadlights.com/

    Will try and get some pics of: single xenon > Bi-xenon (fresnel lens) > Bi-xenon (clear STi-R lens).

    Almost done, just waiting on HID bulbs and ballasts which should be here this week. STi-R lenses are in just need to pick them up and install them.
    Ohhhh my, that is an insane deal you snagged there, well done! I was trying to think of a way to mod my H7 Osram +50 bulbs to work but never got around to it. Let me know if you every figure out a way to get those in there, I can't really find any solid H10 bulbs for the high beams.

    If you happen to snag some pics that would be awesome too! Hit me up if you have any questions.

    Quote Originally Posted by agart View Post
    Tackled this project the past week and have to say it is FAR better than the fresnel lenses. Two issues I've run into: 1) It seems my bi-xenon cutoff on the driver's side will not retract entirely to it's normal position after the lights have been on for longer than 5 minutes. Although it's not full on highbeam output it still is a pretty bad glare for oncoming traffic. Looking into fixing this tonight... 2) Same issue that the sheriff is having. There's a wire loom with 3-4 sets of wires coming from inside the fender above the windshield washer reservoir that hits the outer edge of the ballast. Those wires are too tight and can't be moved out of the way. There is a piece of sheet metal that sticks out behind them that I plan to cut a notch into using a dremel. I didn't see anything mounted near that area that would be affected by cutting a small piece out but I'll be double checking before I begin.
    Awesome! I am glad to hear people have gotten some use out of my post. I am also happy to hear that I didn't get myself too stoked on my project to overhype the performance increase as well. As far as that cutoff goes that is pretty weird. Two things I would check would be the wiring on the actual solenoid itself and the hinge part of the cutoff flapper. I had a solenoid that had one part of the wire break off and disconnect from the plug on the end and I just had to unravel a little extra from the solenoid and re-solder the connection and then all was good. Also, when I painted the cutoffs one of them got a little extra paint I think on the hinge part of the cutoff and would sometimes get stuck on high beam mode. It is fine now after it has been opened and shut quite a few times, but I found that it helped to push the flapper open and closed by hand a bunch of times to loosen it up and hopefully that will allow it to come back to single xenon mode.

    As far as the wires from behind the drivers headlight I just popped the large connector on the top left (when looking toward the windshield) out of the bracket it had and laid it on top of the headlight. There is a little hump or shark fin looking piece of metal along the fender that you just need to route the wire through to get yourself the necessary slack. If my memory serves me right I pulled that wire toward the front of the car slightly so it runs on top of the ballast cover, and then has the large connector you popped out of the bracket sitting on top of the ballast cover as well. But yes, you are absolutely right you can't get them to seat flush with those wires in the way.

    The connector I am talking about is on the far left of this shot courtesy of A4mods headlight removal DIY.



    I will take some pics of exactly how mine are tomorrow if I get a minute. Also, I forgot to take some pics of how to balance the horizontal aim since I am sure most peoples cutoffs will not sit flat in relation to each other. Pics and a fix to come soon!

    Please feel free to hit me up with a PM or post in here any questions you have and I would be more than happy to help out!

  29. #109
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    Oooh, forgot to ask. Since you guys have now used the DIY to install the lenses did you see any glaring omissions or anything that needs to be edited or clarified in the original DIY? Let me know and I can fix any errors I made.

  30. #110
    Veteran Member Three Rings agart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evo_ski View Post
    As far as the wires from behind the drivers headlight I just popped the large connector on the top left (when looking toward the windshield) out of the bracket it had and laid it on top of the headlight. There is a little hump or shark fin looking piece of metal along the fender that you just need to route the wire through to get yourself the necessary slack. If my memory serves me right I pulled that wire toward the front of the car slightly so it runs on top of the ballast cover, and then has the large connector you popped out of the bracket sitting on top of the ballast cover as well. But yes, you are absolutely right you can't get them to seat flush with those wires in the way.
    Unfortunately that's not the only one that's blocking me. I have done the same and placed that connector on top. If you follow that wire towards the right side of the car(using the picture you posted as a reference) it runs into a loom with about 3 more sets of wires. Right where the 4 sets go into the loom is where I'm having the problem. It's making it so that the turn signal won't sit flush in the fender. I trimmed it last night a bit and it sits a lot better now but there is still some work to be done to get it exactly where I'd like it.

    I figured the issue with the cutoff is just a bit of excess paint. Last night it didn't get stuck open so I'm hoping that's the end of that.

    Your write-up is pretty in-depth. I don't think you missed anything. Only thing I did differently was I used the sealant that TRS sells on their site: Click
    It's pretty convenient as it just sits in the channel that the lens slides into. A little heat and some C-clamps and it seals right back up.
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  31. #111
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    @evo_ski

    Thanks again for starting this DIY. Was initially planning on retrofitting FX-Rs but don't have enough time to split the assemblies. Then I stumbled into a guy in another forum selling the front half of Valeo D2S projectors with ECE Clear Lenses and cut-off shields. For the price, I grabbed and and installed on my single-xenons.

    The clear lenses definitely made a big difference. Makes the cut-off more crisp and increase intensity of the emitted light. The stock lens were not just fresnel lenses, they are frosted as well.
    I decided to try the ECE cut-off shields and I think I like them better. They light up the right side of the road much better than the DOT ones.

    Question for you though. I see that you moved the lens further away from the bulb/reflector. May I ask, was this purely for making the cut-off more sharp or does that affect the width as well?

    On a more general note for those with single-xenons
    1. I got tired of wiggling the projectors to take them out so once the 3 nuts were off, I just took the 4 clips out and removed the 2 halves separately.
    2. when I took out my projectors, there's one corner of the projector that has a mounting hole but is never used. And that corner is the one that makes removal such a pain. So I just dremel'd off that corner and now, I can mount/unmount the projector in no time {followed Old Guy's tip on this thread}
    Last edited by francis_a; 12-06-2011 at 09:16 AM.
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  32. #112
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by francis_a View Post
    @evo_ski

    Thanks again for starting this DIY. Was initially planning on retrofitting FX-Rs but don't have enough time to split the assemblies. Then I stumbled into a guy in another forum selling the front half of Valeo D2S projectors with ECE Clear Lenses and cut-off shields. For the price, I grabbed and and installed on my single-xenons.

    The clear lenses definitely made a big difference. Makes the cut-off more crisp and increase intensity of the emitted light.

    Question for you though. I see that you moved the lens further away from the bulb/reflector. May I ask, was this purely for making the cut-off more sharp or does that affect the width as well?

    On a more general note for those with single-xenons
    1. I got tired of wiggling the projectors to take them out so once the 3 nuts were off, I just took the 4 clips out and removed the 2 halves separately.
    2. when I took out my projectors, there's one corner of the projector that has a mounting hole but is never used. And that corner is the one that makes removal such a pain. So I just dremel'd off that corner and now, I can mount/unmount the projector in no time {I read this tip here at AZ, must've been a post by Old Guy or Diagnosticator}
    Nice tip for us single xenon guys. What lenses di you end up using? and did you have to wrap the edges in film to get them to seat right like Evo did?

    I SWEAR I'm going to do this mod soon. I was all hyped up a few months ago, and have had a ton of other stuff come up so I've really had no time. One of these days I'll get to experience the glorious clear lenses for myself!
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  33. #113
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    Actually, I used 2.5" clear ECE lenses from Valeo projectors. The one I got must've been from a Volvo. No mods necessary as they are stock lenses.

    Not to rub it in any further ....... but I edited my post above. The stock lenses are not just fresnel or ridged. They're frosted as well so switching to clear lenses will definitely allow more light through.
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  34. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by evo_ski View Post
    Ohhhh my, that is an insane deal you snagged there, well done! I was trying to think of a way to mod my H7 Osram +50 bulbs to work but never got around to it. Let me know if you every figure out a way to get those in there, I can't really find any solid H10 bulbs for the high beams.

    If you happen to snag some pics that would be awesome too! Hit me up if you have any questions.
    Shouldn't be to hard to mod an HIR 9011 base to fit into the H10 slot. These are some pretty amazingly bright bulbs! 65W that out perform some 100W+ bulbs. They also retain the same temperature as 65W bulbs so no worry about melting the wiring harness. Everyone over @ Hid Planet swears by these. Best and brightest bulbs IMHO.

    H10


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    Last edited by Trev; 12-06-2011 at 11:12 AM.
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  35. #115
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by agart View Post
    Only thing I did differently was I used the sealant that TRS sells on their site: Click
    It's pretty convenient as it just sits in the channel that the lens slides into. A little heat and some C-clamps and it seals right back up.
    Do you mean the lens for the headlight housing or the STI lens inside the holder on the projector? So did you pop the headlight apart as if you were doing a Joey mod, or did you just put a bit of that sealant around the rim of the STI lens to take up the extra space. Sorry for the confusion, I am just trying to figure out what exactly you did so if people have questions later I can help out.

    Quote Originally Posted by francis_a View Post
    Question for you though. I see that you moved the lens further away from the bulb/reflector. May I ask, was this purely for making the cut-off more sharp or does that affect the width as well?
    I spaced the lens out so that it would focus the beam better and provide a sharper cutoff. When the lens was unspaced it projected a pretty goofy patter that I am sure shot a more than acceptable amount of light above the cutoff that could cause glare for oncoming traffic. I can't really comment on the width for before and after the spacing since I didn't really get to see the difference between them. When I was mocking up different spacing lengths I could only run one projector at a time off the computer power supply setup. Plus I was doing it inside, so I probably wasn't far enough from my wall to get an accurate read on how much the width changed anyway. But yeah, I think width would be very similar, but with them spaced you won't blind others any longer.

    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    Nice tip for us single xenon guys. What lenses di you end up using? and did you have to wrap the edges in film to get them to seat right like Evo did?

    I SWEAR I'm going to do this mod soon. I was all hyped up a few months ago, and have had a ton of other stuff come up so I've really had no time. One of these days I'll get to experience the glorious clear lenses for myself!
    For some reason I thought you had bixenon, but if you need to test out your lens/spacing combo I would be more than happy to help out and use the little power supply rig to help you get that dialed in.

    Also, if anyone needs any of the clear film to wrap around the lenses to make them fit our lens holders feel free to PM me your address and I can send some strips of it out for you.

  36. #116
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evo_ski View Post
    For some reason I thought you had bixenon, but if you need to test out your lens/spacing combo I would be more than happy to help out and use the little power supply rig to help you get that dialed in.
    Nope singles. But I would love the help when I eventually do attempt this, thanks for the offer. I'lll definitely get in touch with you when I've got the motivation and the parts in hand. btw I rolled by EVO today when I was in Fremont. I almost stopped to check out your headlights but I didn't want to look creepy! I'm digging the roofbox!
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  37. #117
    Veteran Member Three Rings agart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evo_ski View Post
    Do you mean the lens for the headlight housing or the STI lens inside the holder on the projector? So did you pop the headlight apart as if you were doing a Joey mod, or did you just put a bit of that sealant around the rim of the STI lens to take up the extra space. Sorry for the confusion, I am just trying to figure out what exactly you did so if people have questions later I can help out.
    Headlight housing. Popped them apart like a joey mod because I was getting some condensation before I started the projector work.
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  38. #118
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    Quick update. Picked up the lenses today (but still waiting on my bulbs and ballasts).

    These pics are just meant to highlight the differences between the S4 Valo Bi-Xenon Fresnel lens and the clear STi-R lenses. NOT light output (those will come shortly) i just free held an led flashlight behind both to rough show the clarity.






    Last edited by Trev; 12-11-2011 at 12:28 AM.
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  39. #119
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    Wow, excellent shots! Those really capture the difference between the ridges and the clear lenses very well in your stand alone shots. Also, you can really tell with the light output shots if you can focus the light properly how much more light goes through the clear lenses. Nice work man, I am anxious to see how you end up liking them when they are all mounted up! Thanks for the extra pics as well, I wish I was able to get some better before and after output shots, but now that mine are all modded I don't really want to take the time to swap back to stock just to take a pic of crappy light lol.

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    Wonderful write up. That is super clear headlight beam now. epic!

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