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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    DIY: Gas tank problems Evap Canister Leak Detection pump

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    Assume at your own risk, I'm writing this DIY with information that I have learned from the internet and have tried on my own car, I am not saying I am right and this is the solution to your problems but hopefully it can help a few people

    Disclaimer: I assume no responsibility whatsoever for damages that
    an end user may inflict upon their vehicles or themselves
    using information contained herein. Proceed with caution and care
    when performing modifications to your vehicle. Be advised
    that making modifications to your vehicle may void your manufacturer's warranty and may not be legal for road use depending on your location.


    Evap canister & Leak Detection pump Replacement DIY

    Lets get a better understanding of what exactly our evap system is.
    It consists of:
    • Leak Detection pump
    • Evap Canister
    • n80 purge valve

    The Breakdown
    The evap system is pretty much a big circle between engine and gas tank that cycles vapors. When filling gas, your tank vents through the evap charcoal canister and then out the Leak detection pump's paper filter. The leak detection pump is then connected to the vacuum reservoir located in the front drivers fender and then comes out under the power steering resevoir and then connects to the F shaped hose under the intake manifold. on the other side of the engine you have the n80 valve which is the purge regulation valve for the gas tank, one side goes to the charcoal canister and the other side goes off into a Y, one part of the Y goes to the Turbo Inlet pipe and the other part goes to the F shaped hose under the intake manifold. While the cars running the Leak Detection Pump will not vent the gas tank into the atmosphere it will cycle it back into the engine via the n80 valves readings.
    Here is a diagram

    1- Evap canister – Located underneath spare tire well; accessed from under the back of the vehicle click for picture
    28- Line coming from gas Tank
    28- Line going to n80 valve
    35,18,15- Lines going to LDP
    • up to 2003 part # 8E0-201-801A $240.00 CAD
    • 2004 and on part #8E0-201-801L $164.00 CAD


    Replacement of the Evap canister
    1. Remove the 10mm nuts(3) and drop the cover down. (4)
    2. Remove 1time use hose clamp(14 in the diagram) and remove hose going to LDP
    3. Follow instructions written on evap canister(1) on how to remove the hard lines (28). One is big with a blue seal and one is small with a red seal, use a screw driver to push in the seal ring and then jiggle out the hoses, careful not to break them!!! It may seem like they are not coming, make sure the seal things are pushed in all the way and just keep jiggling it this is normal.
    4. Remove the 3 bolts holding in the Evap canister (2)
    5. Switch evap canisters, screw it in (1) (check weight of your canister, heavy canisters will be clogged with fuel making it more likely this is your problem
    6. Reattach hard lines & pull out clip things but first MAKE SURE TO CHECK THAT LINES AREN'T CLOGGED WITH CHARCOAL SOOT.(28)
    7. Replace 1time use clamp with screw clamp and reconnect soft hose (35)



    *disclaimer: this may or may not be legal for road use depending on you local laws. By continuing to follow this DIY, you hereby assume all risk associated. I will not be held liable or accountable for your actions, mistakes or penalties **


    Delete the Evap Canister Thanks @capt.obvious and @kneel for the pictures
    *ASSUME AT YOUR OWN RISK. PLEASE SEE DISCLAIMER*

    common symptoms are,
    • check engine light p0441
    • unable to fill gas at more than $3 at a time due to excess pressure build up in my tank,
    • (upon removal of nozzle one would hear a "psssshhh" coming from the filler hole)
    • caused because while filling, the tank vents thought the n80 and the evap canister and out the LDP so something was clogged in between there.
    • poor gas milage


    after checking all the hoses, and replacing the n80 valve and still not being able to fill up you can come to the conclusion that your EVAP canister is clogged.


    By doing this you should successfully turn off your check engine light and be able to fill up gas fully!

    Materials Required
    - T fitting with two 3/4th" openings and one 1/2" opening ( or as mentioned by heyweir427 5/8 and 3/8 inside diameter )
    - 1 foot 3/4 inch hose
    - 1 foot 1/2 inch hose
    - 2 medium sized hose clamps for the 1/2inch
    - 4 hose clamps for the 3/4inch
    - 13 mm wrench
    - 10 mm socket



    1. Remove the 10mm nuts(3) and drop the cover down. (4)
    2. Remove 1time use hose clamp(14 in the diagram) and remove hose going to LDP
    3. Follow instructions written on evap canister(1) on how to remove the hard lines (28). One is big with a blue seal and one is small with a red seal, use a screw driver to push in the seal ring and then jiggle out the hoses, careful not to break them!!! It may seem like they are not coming, make sure the seal things are pushed in all the way and just keep jiggling it this is normal.
    4. Remove the 3 bolts holding in the Evap canister (2)
    5. with your T fitting attach 3/4inch (28) &(18) hoses together at the sides of the T and 1/2inch to the bottom of the T (28)
    6. Tighten hose clamps on T-fitting
    7. Replace Nuts and cover(3)(4) You may need to add a spacer in between where the canister was
    8. Go try and get gas and come back and give me, kneel and capt. obvious + rep if it does ! lol



    5 – Leak Detection Pump – Located in the driver side wheel well. click for pic
    • Revised to 8E0-906-201K $166 USD
    • From 8E0-906-201J and 8E0-906-201C

    9- Paper filter your gas tank vents through while filling.
    24- Vacuum canister – located inside driver side front fender


    Replacement of LDP
    1. Remove Drivers rear wheel
    2. Remove carpet wheel liner and you will see the LDP up top
    3. Remove 2 nuts on the top and 1 hidden on the side (12)
    4. Remove wire at the top and pull the LDP out as far as you can so its easier to work with.
    5. Remove hard tube (15) its impossible to push in those yellow clips imo so i took of the clamp
    6. Remove Small hose going to Vapor Canister(24) it should go psshh when you do this.
    7. Replace old pump with new one, change over paper filters if needed.
    8. Follow steps 1-7 backwards except replace the words Remove with Install


    N80 Valve is located under your hood.
    info on vac lines and evap lines under the hood can be found here by a4darkness another great DIY
    Last edited by iamshayan; 03-04-2014 at 11:42 AM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings michgo's Avatar
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    Great writeup
    I heart wagons.


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  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings The Business's Avatar
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    ive been haveing the same problem as u for a year,gona give this a try thanks for the write up sir!

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Business View Post
    ive been haveing the same problem as u for a year,gona give this a try thanks for the write up sir!
    thanks
    Last edited by iamshayan; 03-10-2011 at 04:56 PM.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4SoftWalker's Avatar
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    I would guess frequent over filling of the fuel tank could lead to the evap canister getting filled?

    Nice write-up too. I know how hard they are to put together myself.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A4SoftWalker View Post
    I would guess frequent over filling of the fuel tank could lead to the evap canister getting filled?
    quite the opposite my friend I believe running out of gas and letting the tank run dry causes vapor lock and screws up the evap system.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4SoftWalker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamshayan View Post
    quite the opposite my friend I believe running out of gas and letting the tank run dry causes vapor lock and screws up the evap system.
    I have seen this on other cars too also on the boards for my V70R. Overfilling was the cause.

    In your case u stated, "#
    # Switch evap canisters, screw it in (1) (check weight of your canister, heavy canisters will be clogged with fuel making it more likely this is your problem"


    The only way fuel gets there is from overfilling the tank.

    Not saying u are wrong (but u might be) ... just wondering how the vapor-lock gets initiated in our vacuum system that is connected to the TIP with the turbo spinning there?
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    I guess I am wrong, Evap canisters would get full from over filling, thats the only way.
    However i think i have a different problem because my evap canister was really light, and it was still non functional.
    last year when my abs module went my instrument cluster stopped working aswell so i would never know how fast i was going or how much gas I had.
    I ran out of gas a few times and i think thats what screwed mine up.
    When i removed it there was all sorts of charcoal buit up in the hoses.
    So I guess there are two ways to screw your evap can.
    -Overfilling
    -running out of gas.
    lol
    Last edited by iamshayan; 03-12-2011 at 11:49 AM.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Capt. Obvious's Avatar
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    Another thing you can do is to remove the charcoal canister altogether. Tie all three lines leading to it together using a big T fitting (I used a fitting made for sprinkler systems with two 3/4" barbs and one 1/2" barb on it). You'll need about a foot each of 1/2" and 3/4" fuel line and some clamps as well. Works like a charm and you won't throw any CELs.
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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt. Obvious View Post
    Another thing you can do is to remove the charcoal canister altogether. Tie all three lines leading to it together using a big T fitting (I used a fitting made for sprinkler systems with two 3/4" barbs and one 1/2" barb on it). You'll need about a foot each of 1/2" and 3/4" fuel line and some clamps as well. Works like a charm and you won't throw any CELs.
    Interesting. will add this to the writeup.
    Last edited by iamshayan; 02-24-2014 at 10:11 AM.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    added to the diy! thanks! gave you credit capt. obvious
    Last edited by iamshayan; 02-24-2014 at 10:11 AM.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings heywier427's Avatar
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    i did the canister delete and i can fill up again!

    a few things i noticed that should be addressed.

    1. first and formost, the size of the fuel line needed is 5/8 and 3/8 inside diameter. maybe capt. o meant to say outside diameter??? or maybe my cars different, but thats what i needed.

    2. you need to add spacers to the bolts that hold the plastic cover on. when you take the canister out of the equation you lose about 5/8 of an inch that needs to be made up. i added 2 over sized nuts sanwiched between the car body and the #2 bolts.

    3. (just for clairity) i bought couplers to connect the new hoses to the plastic hoses that attached to the canister, which were not needed. the new hose will slip over the stock plastic hoses (#'s 28 & 18).

    i dont see this in the diy section, but it really should be.

    as our cars are getting older, those canisters are filling up. i didnt weigh mine, but it deffinately weighed at least 8 lbs!

    i vote diy section. its a good write up as well.

    i also noticed the larger plastic line coming from the filler neck was deformed/melted/caved in, from the heat of the exhaust.
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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heywier427 View Post
    i did the canister delete and i can fill up again!

    a few things i noticed that should be addressed.

    1. first and formost, the size of the fuel line needed is 5/8 and 3/8 inside diameter. maybe capt. o meant to say outside diameter??? or maybe my cars different, but thats what i needed.

    2. you need to add spacers to the bolts that hold the plastic cover on. when you take the canister out of the equation you lose about 5/8 of an inch that needs to be made up. i added 2 over sized nuts sanwiched between the car body and the #2 bolts.

    3. (just for clairity) i bought couplers to connect the new hoses to the plastic hoses that attached to the canister, which were not needed. the new hose will slip over the stock plastic hoses (#'s 28 & 18).

    i dont see this in the diy section, but it really should be.

    as our cars are getting older, those canisters are filling up. i didnt weigh mine, but it deffinately weighed at least 8 lbs!

    i vote diy section. its a good write up as well.

    i also noticed the larger plastic line coming from the filler neck was deformed/melted/caved in, from the heat of the exhaust.
    added this info! thanks and i agree

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings kneel's Avatar
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    so this might fix my 40 min half-tank fill up today! gonna attmept this over the weekend
    Atlas Gray #BTA4Avant
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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kneel View Post
    so this might fix my 40 min half-tank fill up today! gonna attmept this over the weekend
    been there done that never looking back

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings wheelmanbg's Avatar
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    Nice write up! You should state what your problem has been in the first post.
    I was hoping this would fix my "Evap system: incorrect purge flow" CEL that I keep getting but it sounds like you guys have a different problem.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelmanbg View Post
    Nice write up! You should state what your problem has been in the first post.
    I was hoping this would fix my "Evap system: incorrect purge flow" CEL that I keep getting but it sounds like you guys have a different problem.
    thats most likely your n80 valve

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings kneel's Avatar
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    going to attemp this today. I need to put gas in my car, so i hope this helps. Running on empty.
    Last edited by kneel; 03-12-2011 at 10:13 AM.
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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings kneel's Avatar
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    codes i got today:

    Saturday,12,March,2011,13:13:44:06109
    VCDS Version: Release 10.6.3

    Address 01: Engine Labels: 06B-909-518-AMB.lbl
    Control Module Part Number: 8E0 909 518 AF HW: 8E0 909 018 A
    Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003
    Software Coding: 0016701
    Work Shop Code: WSC 79160 156 468775
    VCID: 74ED2ABF6E3D
    5 Faults Found:

    16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    P0300 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
    16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
    P0304 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
    16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61): Signal too High
    P0328 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
    16891 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.
    P0507 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
    16840 - EVAP System: Very Small Leak Detected
    P0456 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

    Readiness: 0000 0000
    Atlas Gray #BTA4Avant
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelmanbg View Post
    Nice write up! You should state what your problem has been in the first post.
    done

    Quote Originally Posted by kneel View Post
    codes i got today:

    Saturday,12,March,2011,13:13:44:06109
    VCDS Version: Release 10.6.3

    Address 01: Engine Labels: 06B-909-518-AMB.lbl
    Control Module Part Number: 8E0 909 518 AF HW: 8E0 909 018 A
    Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003
    Software Coding: 0016701
    Work Shop Code: WSC 79160 156 468775
    VCID: 74ED2ABF6E3D
    5 Faults Found:

    16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    P0300 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
    16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
    P0304 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
    16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61): Signal too High
    P0328 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
    16891 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.
    P0507 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
    16840 - EVAP System: Very Small Leak Detected
    P0456 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

    Readiness: 0000 0000
    are these your codes before deleteing the evap canister?

    my code was

    16825 P0441-02 Lower Limit Exceded

    My symptoms were,
    • check engine light p0441
    • unable to fill gas at more than $3 at a time due to excess pressure build up in my tank,
    • (upon removal of nozzle one would hear a "psssshhh" coming from the filler hole)
    • caused because while filling, the tank vents thought the n80 and the evap canister and out the LDP so something was clogged in between there.
    • poor gas milage


    after checking all my hoses, and replacing my n80 valve and still not being able to fill up I came to the conclusion that my EVAP canister was clogged.

    the EVAP can delete is for people experiencing these symptoms, your code suggests a leak somewhere.

    I would refer to the diagram posted above and check for any leaks.

    note:
    I can only speak from my own experiences I am not a tech and am just trying to help out! dont blame me if anything goes wrong! lol
    Last edited by iamshayan; 03-12-2011 at 11:50 AM.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings kneel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamshayan View Post
    done



    are these your codes before deleteing the evap canister?

    my code was

    16825 P0441-02 Lower Limit Exceded

    My symptoms were,
    • check engine light p0441
    • [B]unable to fill gas at more than $3 at a time due to excess pressure build up in my tank,
    • (upon removal of nozzle one would hear a "psssshhh" coming from the filler hole)
    • caused because while filling, the tank vents thought the n80 and the evap canister and out the LDP so something was clogged in between there.
    • poor gas milag

    after checking all my hoses, and replacing my n80 valve and still not being able to fill up I came to the conclusion that my EVAP canister was clogged.

    the EVAP can delete is for people experiencing these symptoms, your code suggests a leak somewhere.

    I would refer to the diagram posted above and check for any leaks.

    note:
    I can only speak from my own experiences I am not a tech and am just trying to help out! dont blame me if anything goes wrong! lol
    same symptoms i'm having i think my Evap Canister is clogged. Doing the Delete as i type here. Well in a few min to be exact.
    Just got back from LOEWS with the parts needed.
    Any pics of this DIY??? pics would be awesome.
    Atlas Gray #BTA4Avant
    IG: avantneil

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings kneel's Avatar
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    completed and no codes so far. Need to see if i can get gas now though. But kids are still napping so, will head out later
    i do have some pics to contribute.









    tools i used:
    Last edited by kneel; 03-13-2011 at 07:27 AM.
    Atlas Gray #BTA4Avant
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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings kneel's Avatar
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    update: got a full tank of gas with no issues. only problem was gas prices at $3.99 for 93.
    Atlas Gray #BTA4Avant
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  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kneel View Post
    update: got a full tank of gas with no issues. only problem was gas prices at $3.99 for 93.

    lol one thing i've noticed is heavy gas smell coming from the ldp, according to Old guy these are dangerous fumes
    i too was hit with the high price of gas making me wish I my evap canister was still clogged lol
    awesome pictures will add to the diy later today

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings kneel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamshayan View Post
    lol one thing i've noticed is heavy gas smell coming from the ldp, according to Old guy these are dangerous fumes
    i too was hit with the high price of gas making me wish I my evap canister was still clogged lol
    awesome pictures will add to the diy later today
    i havent noticed the gas smell. My car stinks anyway with the evap leak and no CAT. Running the TP, not to worried if my car smells more.......as long as its not interior smell.
    Atlas Gray #BTA4Avant
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  26. #26
    Veteran Member Three Rings Chillmode's Avatar
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    Awesome write up! I'ev been having problems with my evap and i think i can finally figure it out.

    $4.19 for 91 in San Jose California. :(
    "Kiss the rings!"

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    Toronto Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by kneel View Post
    i havent noticed the gas smell. My car stinks anyway with the evap leak and no CAT. Running the TP, not to worried if my car smells more.......as long as its not interior smell.
    added the pics and gave you credit! thanks again! I think it's almost time to contact moderator to see if we can get this in the tech diy's
    Last edited by iamshayan; 03-14-2011 at 10:34 AM.

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings kneel's Avatar
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    Dec 01 2007
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    My Garage
    Atlas Gray Revo Stg.3 Avant, MK5 GLI
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    Orange County, NY 10918

    Quote Originally Posted by iamshayan View Post
    added the pics and gave your credit! thanks again! I think it's almost time to contact moderator to see if we can get this in the tech diy's
    np! as you can see from the last pic i only used on hose and reused the hose comeing off the back of the Evap Canister. Just cut it to fit both sides.
    Atlas Gray #BTA4Avant
    IG: avantneil

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    Daily '03 A4 GT2871R 1.8tq5m | '93 Impreza 4dr Project.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kneel View Post
    np! as you can see from the last pic i only used on hose and reused the hose comeing off the back of the Evap Canister. Just cut it to fit both sides.
    lol clever!

  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings a4darkness's Avatar
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    West Sonoma County <-> SF, CA
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    Very nice writeup!

    I like that your Task Force box wrench. Serious tools are serious business.

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings iamshayan's Avatar
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    Daily '03 A4 GT2871R 1.8tq5m | '93 Impreza 4dr Project.
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4darkness View Post
    Very nice writeup!

    I like that your Task Force box wrench. Serious tools are serious business.
    thanks but those are kneels wrenches lol i'm dealin with the mastercraft still, my business isn't that serious

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings BASARAB's Avatar
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    Farmington Hills,Mi

    where T fitting with two 3/4th" openings and one 1/2" opening can be bought? And does it have to be made from a special material or can it be just regular plastic?

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings DoThisMyWay's Avatar
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    ^Home Depot or Lowes and I bought a plastic T but a metal T can be found. This fix actually works! 2 years of fill up woes on my B6 are finally over!! The odd thing is, the canister wasn't full of gas but it must be clogged up with something...
    2006|A4 Avant 2.0T Quattro S-line
    2005|A4 3.0 Quattro UltraSport

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings jimrobbington's Avatar
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    Having a strange issue and was pointed this direction. When I turn my car off, I hear this sound from under the car.

    Quote Originally Posted by jimrobbington View Post
    Was told it could possibly be the gas tank having soooooo much pressure it is actually expanding to normal shape. I also have a cel, I will try to find out the code. Hoping it's the evap canister.
    Last edited by jimrobbington; 09-15-2011 at 09:03 AM.
    05.5 A4 2.0T 6spd, JHM stage 1, stage 1 HPFPupgrade, Vast Stage 3 clutch, VMR test pipe, custom non-res 2.5" turbo back Techtonics exhaust, Borla mufflers, wastegate adjustment, TR6 FMIC, custom CAI, 034 catch can, snub, and MM, 145 bar prv, evap canister delete, JHM SS, KW V1's, 19" V710's, ABT drilled/slotted rotors, Akebono pads, Podi boost gauge, 640 Mod, 20% tint, baby seat.

  35. #35
    Veteran Member Four Rings jimrobbington's Avatar
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    Update: code pulled was p0455, evap system large leak detected. I don't see anyone above with the same code.
    05.5 A4 2.0T 6spd, JHM stage 1, stage 1 HPFPupgrade, Vast Stage 3 clutch, VMR test pipe, custom non-res 2.5" turbo back Techtonics exhaust, Borla mufflers, wastegate adjustment, TR6 FMIC, custom CAI, 034 catch can, snub, and MM, 145 bar prv, evap canister delete, JHM SS, KW V1's, 19" V710's, ABT drilled/slotted rotors, Akebono pads, Podi boost gauge, 640 Mod, 20% tint, baby seat.

  36. #36
    Veteran Member Three Rings J.Owen's Avatar
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    bumping this up to see if JimRobbington found any sort of resolution. I have been having trouble filling and am now getting the same popping noise as yourself. I plan to pull everything apart this weekend, but it would be nice to have direction to head in before hand.
    Josh @ BlownEuros

    Expenses in F1 have gone down since the 1960s because teams don't need an extra pit crew to help the driver carry around his balls when he is not in the car.

  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings jimrobbington's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.Owen View Post
    bumping this up to see if JimRobbington found any sort of resolution. I have been having trouble filling and am now getting the same popping noise as yourself. I plan to pull everything apart this weekend, but it would be nice to have direction to head in before hand.
    Well, good thing I subscribed! Don't tear anything apart just yet. N80 fixed the gas tank crunkling sound immediately, cel went away, and I felt a slight jump in performance. It did not however fix the gas pumping situation, but I can live with that.
    05.5 A4 2.0T 6spd, JHM stage 1, stage 1 HPFPupgrade, Vast Stage 3 clutch, VMR test pipe, custom non-res 2.5" turbo back Techtonics exhaust, Borla mufflers, wastegate adjustment, TR6 FMIC, custom CAI, 034 catch can, snub, and MM, 145 bar prv, evap canister delete, JHM SS, KW V1's, 19" V710's, ABT drilled/slotted rotors, Akebono pads, Podi boost gauge, 640 Mod, 20% tint, baby seat.

  38. #38
    Veteran Member Three Rings J.Owen's Avatar
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    I run -361* of Camber.
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    hmm, Maybe i'll pick one up on the way home as this is an easy swap ... i can still dig into everything this weekend.

    p.s. I don't have a CEL, just the symptoms.
    Josh @ BlownEuros

    Expenses in F1 have gone down since the 1960s because teams don't need an extra pit crew to help the driver carry around his balls when he is not in the car.

  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings jimrobbington's Avatar
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    07 Suzuki SV650
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    Parker, Colorado
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    Don't forget hose clamps!
    05.5 A4 2.0T 6spd, JHM stage 1, stage 1 HPFPupgrade, Vast Stage 3 clutch, VMR test pipe, custom non-res 2.5" turbo back Techtonics exhaust, Borla mufflers, wastegate adjustment, TR6 FMIC, custom CAI, 034 catch can, snub, and MM, 145 bar prv, evap canister delete, JHM SS, KW V1's, 19" V710's, ABT drilled/slotted rotors, Akebono pads, Podi boost gauge, 640 Mod, 20% tint, baby seat.

  40. #40
    Veteran Member Four Rings Staz's Avatar
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    QUEENS, NY
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    i completely deleted EVERYTHING last night .. ill have pics up tonight

    ldp pump went bye bye, so did the charcoal canister .. as well as the kidney vacuum tank in the drivers front fender

    .. also removed the complete evap system and the line that runs next to the gas line underneath the car all the way to the canister

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