DIY - B8 S4 Oil Change

**vwong** · 08-30-2010 09:12 AM

**edited 6/6/2011 for correction on the tool used for drain plug**

**edited for corrections, thanks to dr bryan for pointing out my errors**

I searched around to see if there is a DIY on oil change specifically for the B8 S4 (found one for the A5 3.2, which is similar). Unfortunately, there isn't any at the moment. Therefore, I decided to create one.

BTW, some pictures below turned out to be blurry.

Disclaimer: The info below is my procedures on an oil change. I will not be held responsible for any injuries you may cause from your own action.

Tools required:
- ramps
- large Phillip (or large flat-head) screwdriver
- 6mm allen wrench
- 36mm socket or large adj. wrench
- 1/2" drive ratchet (used with 32mm socket)
- needle nose pliers
- lots of towels
- drain pan
- funnel

Parts required:
- 8 quarts of oil (the pic below only shows 7 quarts only)
- oil filter

First, warm up the engine a little bit. Then drive up to a set of car ramps. You can purchase those car ramps from your local auto parts store. I just happen to have a set of custom built ramps from the days of my lowered Prelude. After driving up to a set of car ramps, just for precaution, put something behind the rear tire to prevent the car from rolling back.

Remove the lower engine cover, belly pan, whatever you call this thing. There are 11 lock screws (3 in the back, 2 in the front, and 3 on each side just in front of the tire). Use either a large Phillip screwdriver or a large flat-head screwdriver to undo those screws. The 3 screw in the back stay with the lower engine cover, so don't waste time trying to remove them off the cover. Then set the cover aside.

Now you can see the oil pan. The drain bolt is located on the bottom of the oil pan. Put the drain pan under the drain bolt. Use a 6mm allen wrench to loosen it. Because of the orientation of the drain bolt, it's very messy. It's recommended to put lots of newspaper on the floor under the area to absorb any oil that doesn't end up in the drain pan.

While letting the old oil drain, remove the filter/filter cap. It is located on the top toward the firewall. Make sure you put some towels around the filter cap to catch the oil. Use a 36mm socket and ratchet to undo the cap. If you don't have a 36mm socket, you can use a large adj. wrench.

Here is the old oil filter still installed in the filter cap.

Here is the new oil filter, o-rings, and crush washer.

After separating the old filter from the cap, replace the o-ring in the cap. This o-ring is the one with the tap, and make sure you install the o-ring with the tap facing down. The tap is there so you can use a needle nose pliers to remove it.

The other o-ring is located on the "neck" of the filter housing.

Install the new filter into the cap, then screw the cap back onto the engine. I think the torque rating is molded on the cap. Then replace the crush washer on the drain bolt and screw it back onto the oil pan. Wipe clean the areas, then re-install the lower engine cover. You're almost done.

Now fill up the engine with your favorite engine oil. I prefer Mobil 1 0W40 (European formula). I used a funnel, however the funnel cannot sit completely into the fill hole because there is mechanical components just under there. Also, when you fill in the oil, don't just pour the entire bottle into the funnel. It will spill all over the engine cover. Fill it slowly. I initially put in only 6.5 quarts of oil as in the DIY for the A5 3.2. But after a short test drive, the MMI showed that the oil level wasn't even half in between max and min. So I put in another 3/4 quart (making it a total of 7-1/4 quarts of oil), and everything was fine.

So after filling up, put the oil cap back on. Wipe clean the area if needed to. Then go for a test drive. If you don't have a dip stick like me, after the test drive, shut the car off. Then turn the ignition on without starting the engine. Wait about 2 minutes, then the oil level will show up on the MMI screen. If the level is ok, congratulation, you're done!!!

**rugbylion** · 08-30-2010 09:15 AM

great write up...appreciate it.....

**wwhan** · 08-30-2010 09:20 AM

I used the Mityvac on my old Mercedes, requires no operations under the car. It works fine
for the Mercedes, why not on the Audi? One inserts the tube down the dipstick tube.

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CDsQ8wIwAw#

**vwong** · 08-30-2010 09:27 AM

^^^ I like the old fashion way.

If I didn't have to take the pictures, I'm sure I can finish the oil change in about 1/2 hour. That's how long it takes me to change the oil in my E92 335i.

**Dan[FN]6262** · 08-30-2010 09:48 AM

Originally Posted by wwhan

I used the Mityvac on my old Mercedes, requires no operations under the car. It works fine
for the Mercedes, why not on the Audi? One inserts the tube down the dipstick tube.

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CDsQ8wIwAw#

because the new engines don't have a dipstick, duh.

**akim_hobo** · 08-30-2010 09:54 AM

Is there even a place to suck out the oil? If there's no more dipstick, I'm not sure where you'd put the hose to ensure you suck out all the oil. I used to do this with my S40, oil changes took 30-40 mins and was a breeze with no mess.

**NWS4Guy** · 08-30-2010 10:12 AM

There is a dispstick hole, and a traditional dipstick is available for the S4, you can use this method. There is something to be said about using gravity though, the plug in the pan is the lowest point, and if the oil is nice and warm, it's more viscous. The worst pieces of metal and foriegn objects will settle to the plug and are possibly more likely to be carried out with the old oil than from a suction system.

**t0mt0m** · 08-30-2010 12:11 PM

thank you for this write up, i was planning to do mine in this weekend!

**RX Renesis** · 08-30-2010 12:32 PM

isnt the whole point of an oil change (other than putting in fresh oil) is to drain out contaminants, dirt, metal shavings etc etc?
i wouldnt use that vacuum method at all, thats the jiffy lube way of changing oil.

**wwhan** · 08-30-2010 12:35 PM

The Mercedes C32, in 2002 did not have a dipstick. Plus the the newer AMG models did not have a dipstick either,
but they all have the dipstick tube for top extraction.

The Mercedes dealers have been changing oil by extraction through the capped dipstick tube for at least 8 years now.
Many of the owners have been doing this also. It has worked perfectly fine for many years, with even Mercedes C32s
that have reach high mileage levels.

**HDClown** · 08-30-2010 12:53 PM

I like to use top extraction via MityVac on "in-between" changes. Those being the oil changes that are in-between the manufacturers recommended intervals, should you subscribe to the mentality of changing the oil more frequently than the manufacturer recommends. It's quick and clean and this way you still get the bottom drain, just not every time.

**dr bryan** · 08-30-2010 08:44 PM

Thanks, just did mine this weekend. Great writeup. Oil filter socket is 36mm (not 32) and drain plug is a T35 not 6mm allen.

**nick71692** · 08-31-2010 06:53 PM

very nice write up

**rx7ven** · 08-31-2010 07:05 PM

i hope im not hijacking the thread as its somewhat related. i was wondering about the brand of oil to use. the shop that i normally goto for oil changes uses amsoil synthethic oil. was wondering if i can use that for the s4.

**dr bryan** · 08-31-2010 08:48 PM

There is a good thread about that titled "Break in oil and first oil change??" over on AW.

**newtonc2001A4V6** · 08-31-2010 09:50 PM

Originally Posted by Dan[FN]5857

because the new engines don't have a dipstick, duh.

Not a physical dipstick, but the car still has a dipstick tube that can be used with an extractor. Speaking of which, the oil extractor's work great. On my V6 A4, I used it and removed the drain plug to see how much additional oil came out (and install a fumoto valve) and there was very little additional oil. As with the other poster, I also follow the procedure of every 5K I extract the oil and every 10K, the dealer takes care of the oil/filter.

**S5noob** · 09-01-2010 07:49 AM

I agree wholeheartedly, I do this for all my cars for "in-between" oil chages (more frequent than dealer required).

Originally Posted by HDClown

I like to use top extraction via MityVac on "in-between" changes. Those being the oil changes that are in-between the manufacturers recommended intervals, should you subscribe to the mentality of changing the oil more frequently than the manufacturer recommends. It's quick and clean and this way you still get the bottom drain, just not every time.

**S5noob** · 09-01-2010 07:52 AM

INterestingly, as I am anticipating the arrival of my S5 Sportback, which has the same 3.0 V6 TFSI as the S4 and the S5 Cabriolet in the USA, I couldn't find the dipstick for this engine on the Audi parts system. I suspect that this particular engine is the exception - there is no dipstick that can be bought - only a plug that comes from factory.

Is this true? S4 owners, anyone got a dipstick?

Originally Posted by NWS4Guy

There is a dispstick hole, and a traditional dipstick is available for the S4, you can use this method. There is something to be said about using gravity though, the plug in the pan is the lowest point, and if the oil is nice and warm, it's more viscous. The worst pieces of metal and foriegn objects will settle to the plug and are possibly more likely to be carried out with the old oil than from a suction system.

**dr bryan** · 09-01-2010 08:44 AM

My local parts dept did not stock the dipstick or have record of it. I bought one online and it works and is accurate. Search for part number 06E115611H at http://www.genuinevwaudiparts.com/ $23.83 shipped

**NWS4Guy** · 09-01-2010 09:18 AM

I said availible, not comes with :)

Chris has them in stock.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4-....0T/ES2070638/

$23

**tsjordan** · 03-19-2011 06:58 PM

Just for the record, I changed the oil on my 2011 S4 today and the drain bolt was a T40, not a T35... perhaps they changed it.

**vwong** · 06-06-2011 08:39 AM

Just a little update. I did another oil change (at 20k) this past weekend and confirmed that the drain plug is indeed hex rather than torx.

**ENV²** · 06-06-2011 08:50 AM

What is the cost of this DIY and what Amsoil is the one to use? I know redrocker mentioned it once

**FatalBert** · 05-14-2012 09:24 AM

Resurrecting this thread for a question:
Does the filter cap just unscrew with only counterclockwise torque? I got in there with the adjustable wrench and it was just not coming loose. Felt like the cap was going to snap if I tried any harder. Was this not an issue for anyone else who has done it themselves?

**RavinJetta** · 05-14-2012 09:39 AM

Originally Posted by FatalBert

Resurrecting this thread for a question:
Does the filter cap just unscrew with only counterclockwise torque? I got in there with the adjustable wrench and it was just not coming loose. Felt like the cap was going to snap if I tried any harder. Was this not an issue for anyone else who has done it themselves?

I used a big socket and it came right off going counter clockwise.

**JJDubya** · 05-14-2012 02:35 PM

Originally Posted by FatalBert

Resurrecting this thread for a question:
Does the filter cap just unscrew with only counterclockwise torque? I got in there with the adjustable wrench and it was just not coming loose. Felt like the cap was going to snap if I tried any harder. Was this not an issue for anyone else who has done it themselves?

Were you able to get the filter housing off? Also, did you happen to use something to drain the housing? I am about to DIY the oil change for my 15K service and wonder if the MetalNerd (for example) drain assembly is useful (or even relevant to the B8):

**shonseb** · 05-14-2012 05:18 PM

Originally Posted by RX Renesis

isnt the whole point of an oil change (other than putting in fresh oil) is to drain out contaminants, dirt, metal shavings etc etc?
i wouldnt use that vacuum method at all, thats the jiffy lube way of changing oil.

Magnetic oil drain plug helps too:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A5-...n_Plug/ES5386/

**phillips2024** · 05-14-2012 05:34 PM

Originally Posted by JJDubya

Were you able to get the filter housing off? Also, did you happen to use something to drain the housing? I am about to DIY the oil change for my 15K service and wonder if the MetalNerd (for example) drain assembly is useful (or even relevant to the B8):

im confused. why are you doing your own 15k service?

**QSonx** · 05-14-2012 05:40 PM

Originally Posted by phillips2024

im confused. why are you doing your own 15k service?

Why not? I did mine. Not a lot to do for 15k.

**phillips2024** · 05-14-2012 05:44 PM

Originally Posted by QSonx

Why not? I did mine. Not a lot to do for 15k.

just that its free if you take it to the dealer. after my 15 ill be doing my own

**QSonx** · 05-14-2012 05:57 PM

Originally Posted by phillips2024

just that its free if you take it to the dealer. after my 15 ill be doing my own

Could had sworn just our first one was free. Besides I'm not quite ready for a TD1 and I put Motul 300V in there for the track season to try it out.

**svander** · 05-14-2012 06:11 PM

It is only the first one that is free.

**JJDubya** · 05-14-2012 07:08 PM

Originally Posted by phillips2024

im confused. why are you doing your own 15k service?

Since I'm not sure how the TD1 issues will play out, I want to play it safe and avoid the dealership. Additionally, I like working on my own car. Also, only my 5K service was "free". 15K would be on me.

**phillips2024** · 05-15-2012 03:55 AM

hm..i was told mine would be covered. ill have to double check

**Stereodude** · 05-15-2012 04:47 AM

Originally Posted by phillips2024

hm..i was told mine would be covered. ill have to double check

Did you buy Audicare?

**phillips2024** · 05-15-2012 05:17 AM

Originally Posted by Stereodude

Did you buy Audicare?

no.

if its not covered by my dealer, which is sounds like it may not, ill prob buy 7L of Lubro Moly Synthoil Premium 5W40

**Akatsuki...** · 05-15-2012 08:07 AM

Is there suppose to be a washer at the drain plug? there wasnt one on my car, and my mechanic put it back on without one, and no leaks

**FatalBert** · 05-15-2012 08:14 AM

Originally Posted by JJDubya

Were you able to get the filter housing off? Also, did you happen to use something to drain the housing? I am about to DIY the oil change for my 15K service and wonder if the MetalNerd (for example) drain assembly is useful (or even relevant to the B8):

No the filter housing is what I am speaking of. It has the large socket above which I cannot seem to turn loose. It is either on there way too tight, or I am doing something else wrong. It feels like its about to snap if I try to just turn counterclockwise (I'm talking like 80lb + of torque and still didn't come loose). It sounded like an easy feat in the tutorial, and as RavinJetta said it came right off for him. Don't know why mine is giving me such a hard time.