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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings A1 A2 German's Avatar
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    Feb 28 2005
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    Audi A4 B5, Audi Fox, Audi AMLS TT, GS450, CB175, CL175
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    Tempe

    Build your dream 1.8T here, if money no object, yet within reason.

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    This thread is to build your dream 1.8t, if money wasn't an object, yet within reason focusing more on the head and most importantly the block (not so much on the components like injectors, wastegates, because this thread is about the 1.8T itself, not the bolt ons).



    The reason I state "within reason" is some modifications are so over the top it'd be ridiculous: Case in point carbon fiber rods at ~$9000, that's nonsense. But lets knock that down to not just money, but within reason, tossing the heavy steel cam gear for an aluminum gear for $100 shaves pounds (not alone makes timing adjustable) is a good decision, but imagine if they made an even lighter magnesium gear for $500...yet only was 3 ounces lighter, than your $100 aluminum gear. Buying the magnesium gear will be tossing money way, and wouldn't even net .5 hp more over the aluminum and would be a waste of money, it's not justified.



    However, some mods yield absolute no hp gains yet could be considering an absolute necessity like a girdle kit, being ~$800...for absolutely nothing but security and longevity. This creates a weird dynamic as people run this large hp amount vs that hp amount, with no issues and never used a girdle, yet others saying absolutely. I have to say, if $600-800 saves the motor or gets me another 30,000 miles, that nominal cost of ~$800 is a hella of a big enough incentive not to be another tear down, I'm going with yes. Aka, you couldn't pay me $800 right now to tear apart my motor and swap the perfectly good head gasket for the sake of earning $800, no thanks. So if I can possibly goes years more without a tear down that's great.



    To drive the point home one more time, at one time I saw that a particular crank was ~4 times more expensive than say the AGN crank, yet the expensive crank offered absolutely no benefits and the AGN wasn't known to fail or have any issues. Granted, lighten it, knife edge it? Absolutely! Remember, this is not a budget build at all it will be an expensive build with the best parts. Basically, imagine if the build was being done 100% for free by a shop, or magazine with no limits, except expenses had to be at least justified to even be a gain or a fantastic upgrade, as where a custom $550 carbon fiber fuel rail is ~junk, it does nothing, it would be approved to buy a $550 fluid dampener, as not only produces gains, but really required for high horsepower applications to smooth the motor out.



    Fantasy head: Generally the AEB just about takes the cake, and kinda only leaves two top contenders for valve train kits, with one being better/higher end than the other.



    - Supertech kit

    - Ferrea Oversized kit (being better)

    - Cams: These are more preference, you're not getting failure or more strength with one vs the other and more about powerband and needs but post away.

    - Keep VVT/toss?

    - Remember, this is a fantasy build so for +$1400 do you convert to twin cam gear pullies? This is pretty trick, this also deletes the entire chain tensioner system inside the head: https://prorace-engineering.co.uk/pr...-vag-1-8t-20v/

    However, what's your horsepower yield by being able to adjust the other cam, is it even really needed? Is it a cool mod? Hell yes, but does that stack up worth that kinda money? Your call. Add what ever you've seen out there available, things I've missed, things I've overlooked, that you would do to the head.



    Fantasy block: This is the meat and potatos, unlike the head, the 06A block has so so so so so many variations from doing a dry sump, to girdle, to so so so many rods, blends and possibilities.



    So we can go up to 2.2L, the only ~possible drawback being razor thin combustion walls, this gets into also debate...do you even take it to that? Or, think 2.1L is pushing it, or you like alot more meat on the bone any really think 2008cc (2.0) is the way as more robust.



    PLEASE NOTE: DO NOT SIMPLY STATE, "I would go 2.1L", you need to state your build specs/spread sheet.





    06A block, are you looking for a CERTAIN engine code 06A block? Do think it matters?



    What are you doing, by who, what specs?

    - 06A (what 06A if you think it matters)

    - Rods (anything done to them?)

    - Pistons (anything done to them?)

    - Crank (going to say knife edged, polished, balanced)

    - Girdle kit?

    - Dry Sump kit?

    - Fire rings? <---- I mean, could be justified, never deal with blown head gaskets

    - Bearings

    - Keep going





    Please make your list in an easy format for all to read:



    Head:

    - AEB

    - Ferrea +1 valve train kit

    - Cat 3658 cams

    - Ceramic Coated valves

    Block:

    - AWP block

    - Etc

    - Etc

    - Etc

    - Etc



    With any additional information you'd like to add.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Sep 10 2021
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    Pennsylvania

    The SCCA says that I can run a K03 or K04 turbo.

    I can run any injector (probably Bosch 550 cc)

    Any cam profile I want.

    I can bore the cylinders basically just enough to clean them up.

    I can't stroke it.

    Head can be decked, but basically just enough to clean it up.

    I am allowed to tune (to the moon), but I can't run more than 10% ethanol. I will have access to 100 octane unleaded or 110 leaded though.

    Exhaust is free (and will be completely straight piped, no cats).

    I already put in nice bearings, moly rings, etc.

    Oh, and I can port the head.

    The kicker? Whatever turbo I use, I have to put a 35 mm turbo inlet restrictor on it. So I don't think the K04 would help... it might just spool slower. Maybe I'm wrong?

    I want to rev the thing to the stratosphere, but I can't see the turbo keeping up.
    Edited to conform to the requested format. :-)

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings Puddin Tane's Avatar
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    What's a girdle?

  4. #4
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    It lives under the main bearings and reinforces the bottom of the block so it's not all wiggly-like.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
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    Mar 28 2015
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    1987 Dodge Raider G54B Turbo
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    Portland OR, United States

    My version is a build it for the intended application. All out race with no restrictions wont be the same as a fun daily driver. My dream specs for a fun daily driver are pretty close to what I built. O6F block with the balancer assembly, , IE forged rods with pin oiling, block bored and honed using a deck plate and a plateau hone finish, Mahle forged pistons. Coated bearings that are select fit for perfect clearance.

    Mild ported head that was reworked on the flow bench to validate optimal valve size and porting. Aftermarket valves. On the exhaust I would go with aftermarket sodium filled on the exhaust. The heads run a lot cooler, giving you more tuning headroom. Stock cams, because its a daily driver. Moderate turbo to keep a nice powerband, 22 psi of boost. I would probably drop the CR a bit to account for fuel. That should get about 300-340 WHP, enough to get to work and back. I did a mild porting job on my head but I did not flow test or look at oversized valves, that is one thing that I would have liked to have done differently.

    Crazy additions? I would get selected parts DLC coated to reduce friction. Lifter buckets and piston pins are two parts that come to mind.

    A lightened crank would be another change. On my build mine was a brand new TFSI crank and I did not want to mess with it and make a $1000 dollar mistake. I'm sure there is a nice billet option out there.

    More flow for the head? I would adapt the four valve head from a 2.0TFSI to port injection and try and put a 1.8T engine cover on it. The European NA 1.8T used a five valve head with a cam timing adjuster that allowed true variable intake cam timing, not just an all or nothing two position system. It also has a dual pattern exhaust flange the has the B7 pattern, that allows you to bolt on a B7 turbo without an adaptor. Could be an interesting variant.

    More all out would be custom pistons with a shorter deck height and fit longer rods. Smaller journals on the rods to reduce friction would be another experiment. The most cost effective change is more boost.

    The idea of most engine girdles is to prevent the main caps from floating and reduce stress on the webbing near the caps. Some people use ARP fasteners on the mains to increase the clamping force, they may require line honing the mains. Not a typical 1.8T problem.
    2003 02X Six speed swapped, RS4 RSB, H&R FSB, B7 brakes, 2.0T stroker, DSMIC's, B7 CTS K04 turbo.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings Puddin Tane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin C View Post
    That should get about 300-340 WHP, enough to get to work and back.
    ...and smoke past 95% of morons mindlessly cock-blocking the fast lane so they can put it in cruise and gawp into their phones (pet peeve). Great answers, thanks.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    OK, boys, help me out here. I just heard from a friend that the class I was looking at competing in might become unviable or perhaps just less appealing for now, but that there's another class that works like bracket racing in my region. Pick a time range on the benchmark course, build to that benchmark. That gives me a whole bunch of freedom I wouldn't have otherwise had. So now I want to shoot for the moon, since it always felt a little silly that all of our daily driver cars are significantly faster than my race car. But I don't know how to do it. I always knew I couldn't touch my cams because the stock cams were best for the power level I could run at. No point in revving to 8,500+ RPM because I couldn't feed that beast with the little turbos I was allowed to use.

    Now I can go fast. As the thread stated at the beginning, this has to be within reason, but "within reason" is a race engine. It doesn't have to have any character below 3,000 RPM. It can use $15-per-gallon 100 octane fuel (still no E85--E10 and lower). What do I do? I don't want to build a $15,000 race motor, or one that has to be rebuilt twice a year, but I feel like a high-rpm engine that I can feed high boost would be within reason. The plan as I see it?

    Get a block from a junk yard car - get it decked, bored, and honed (clean it up). 06A probably? Just keep it the same as stock, just nice.

    Use the internals from that block and aim for 350 horsepower. New bearings, new seals, new rings, etc. Which ones?

    Big port head? I have a spare German-cast AMB-like head at home (not sure what it is, but it's identical to the AMB except it's not ruined). I can clean it up and fill it with cams and valves and springs. Do I need the big port head for 350 hp and high RPM?

    Turbo. I've focused all of my time and energy trying to figure out how to make horsepower from a restricted K03. I don't know anything about "eliminators" and GTX-3076s except they can flow way more air at higher RPM and sustain more boost. I also recognize that bigger does not always mean better--I don't need a turbo that's built for 600 hp, right?

    No methanol or nitrous injection. Too complicated, not sustainable for long runs, probably not even allowed.

    Super light clutch and flywheel. Current one is waaaaay too heavy. Shifts take too long.

    I'll build something throughout 2025, and then over the 2025/2026 winter I'll swap this engine with the one that's in the car today. Spend my money!

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings Puddin Tane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin C View Post
    ...drop the CR a bit...
    How?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin C View Post
    ...to account for fuel.
    Meaning common gas station premium gas? Stock CR should be right, no? Oh but you mean under higher-than-stock boost. What target CR then?

  9. #9
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Puddin Tane View Post
    How?
    I think a pretty common and easy way to drop CR is to use a thicker head gasket.

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