Please help me to figure ot what's going on with my clutch and transmission

[V1nny]

Here is what I experience: when accelerating from traffic stop and ready to shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear (around 4K rpm), I am not able to pull the shifter to get out of the first gear until rpm down to about 2000.

Here is what I have: 01 Allroad, factory manual, 25K on transmission rebuilt by audis4parts in Arizona, and stage 5 full face SPEC clutch installed just under 500 miles ago. Tune is basic stage 3 with k04, busting about 23psi max.

Does my problem description makes sense? Any ideas?

[glennda5id]

I am no expert, but it sounds like an issue where the clutch is not disengaging enough. I think it could be due to a number of issues.

[S/RConcepts]

3 things pop into my head on this- bent clutch fork, damaged throwout bearing, or slave cylinder is going. Is the 1st-2nd shift the only gear this is happening in?

[V1nny]

Even more specific, not able to get out of first gear until rpm is down to 2000

[AudiAR01]

Shift collar could be sticking as well. If they didn't replace them when it was rebuilt. Is it only 1st n 2nd problems.

2003 A6 2.7T 6spd Stage 1+ (motor pulled for stage 3+ upgrades)

2001 Allroad TIP Stage 1
2006 A3 2.0T 6spd Stage 1

[glennda5id]

Given that the clutch was installed 500 miles ago, that to me sounds like just enough time for an improper installation to become a problem. Something like, improperly torqued or no loctite, on clutch bolts.

[V1nny]

Quick update:
Over weekend I put my car in 2nd gear with clutch disengaged, and on parking brake, and then slowly released clutch pedal to the point it generated the noise and vibration I complained in original message. I repeated it many times, taking some beer breaks not to overheat clutch, it helped to smoothen clutch engagement a lot. It almost perfect now. I guess my driving or shifting style was not good enough to break-in clutch properly.

So with the clutch issue mostly resolved, I think my gearbox, rebuilt less than 30K miles ago, has synchro issue. Maybe killed them prematurely the way I drive..
Is there any additive I can put in the gearbox to get better shifts for 10-15K mies, until I save for another rebuilt gearbox? From what I remember, then gearbox was installed, 2 tubes of Liqui Moly 2019 MoS2 Anti-Friction Gear Lubricant was added.

For now I ordered 4 quarts of
Genuine Ford Fluid XT-M5-QS Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid
Someone in miata racing community told me it helped them to extend life of worn syncros on miatas they race. Do you think Anti-Friction Gear Lubricant was the wrong stuff to add, as synchros need frictions to work properly?

[Calif_Kid]

So with the clutch issue mostly resolved, I think my gearbox, rebuilt less than 30K miles ago, has synchro issue. Maybe killed them prematurely the way I drive..
Is there any additive I can put in the gearbox to get better shifts for 10-15K mies, until I save for another rebuilt gearbox? From what I remember, then gearbox was installed, 2 tubes of Liqui Moly 2019 MoS2 Anti-Friction Gear Lubricant was added.

For now I ordered 4 quarts of
Genuine Ford Fluid XT-M5-QS Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid
Someone in miata racing community told me it helped them to extend life of worn syncros on miatas they race. Do you think Anti-Friction Gear Lubricant was the wrong stuff to add, as synchros need frictions to work properly?

As far as the Liqui Moly 2019 MoS2 Anti-Friction Gear Lubricant, it looks it is suggested to add it to the rear diff, but not to the transmission. I listed a few threads below.
- Jim

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...nd-Diff-Change
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-2-shift-grind
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-MoS2-in-trans

[AudiAR01]

I would say holding the hand brake and letting the clutch out "to smooth" it was a bad idea. I would almost be certain that you created hotspots on the clutch disc and also ground it smooth on both the flywheel side and pressure plate side. And that will eventually make the clutch disc fail prematurely. Essentially you were slipping the clutch over and over. Which is not good. You could mess up both the flywheel and PP doing that. Idk of any additives you can add to help with the syncros. Once they were out and wear off the outside of them they tend to stick more and more.

Edit: I didn't see you had a RR stage 5. So it may be ok the clutch disc. They're pretty tough clutch setups. But I would refrain from slipping it anymore. But that's just me.

2003 A6 2.7T 6spd Stage 1+ (motor pulled for stage 3+ upgrades)

2001 Allroad TIP Stage 1
2006 A3 2.0T 6spd Stage 1

[V1nny]

I would say holding the hand brake and letting the clutch out "to smooth" it was a bad idea. I would almost be certain that you created hotspots on the clutch disc and also ground it smooth on both the flywheel side and pressure plate side. And that will eventually make the clutch disc fail prematurely. Essentially you were slipping the clutch over and over. Which is not good. You could mess up both the flywheel and PP doing that. Idk of any additives you can add to help with the syncros. Once they were out and wear off the outside of them they tend to stick more and more.

Edit: I didn't see you had a RR stage 5. So it may be ok the clutch disc. They're pretty tough clutch setups. But I would refrain from slipping it anymore. But that's just me.

2003 A6 2.7T 6spd Stage 1+ (motor pulled for stage 3+ upgrades)

2001 Allroad TIP Stage 1
2006 A3 2.0T 6spd Stage 1

Actually friction disk had about third of the rivets failed, and fallen out. Also pilot bearing in SPEC lightweight flywheel dislodged, not sure what caused what, and what happened first. SPEC is rebuilding kit to like new condition with new friction surface. I am planning to put it here for sale with substantial discount for these wiling to give it a try.

[V1nny]

Thank you Jim for sharing relavant links. Looks like am am not the only one, who added Liqui Moly MoS2 to the gearbox oil. Should I get rid of the mix I have there now and put a fresh Ford stuff I have? Scotty (who is a respected authority for anything transmission related) believes Liqui Moly MoS2 will actually damage synchros:

Scotty@Advanced Scotty@Advanced
Four Rings
Scotty@Advanced's
That moly additive will cause the copper to leach out of your synchros. I'd ditch it ASAP.

[Calif_Kid]

Thank you Jim for sharing relavant links. Looks like am am not the only one, who added Liqui Moly MoS2 to the gearbox oil. Should I get rid of the mix I have there now and put a fresh Ford stuff I have? Scotty (who is a respected authority for anything transmission related) believes Liqui Moly MoS2 will actually damage synchros:

Scotty@Advanced Scotty@Advanced
Four Rings
Scotty@Advanced's
That moly additive will cause the copper to leach out of your synchros. I'd ditch it ASAP.

Given what Scotty said, I would drain the fluid and replace it with fresh fluid. I don't have any experience with the Ford fluid, but on my car (2001 A6 2.7T 6-speed), I used Fuchs Sinto Fluid that is mentioned in the https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ht=fuchs+sinto thread. I bought a tube of the moly additive, but haven't added it to my rear diff yet.
- Jim

[V1nny]

Drained transmission today, filled with Ford XT-M5-QS Manual Transmission Fluid. Made huge difference, it is actually sifts fine now. Lesson learned: do not add Liqui Moly MoS2 to the gearbox.
As for the clutch, it gets little better as I keep driving, still not perfect.

[V1nny]

Got fully rebuilt with JHM kit 01E from Phil at audis4parts.com, new stage II endurance clutch from South Bend, new OEM master cylinder with aftermarket stainless braided line, and shifting feels really good now. Only small thing is bothering me is that clutch pedal is on the same level as brake pedal, and I prefer it to be 10mm, maybe half an inch lower. Looking at conflicting instructions on forums, some say there is something threaded rod rod to adjust, other say nothing.. Any idea?

"Look underneath the dash, you should see a threaded rod on the clutch pedal to the self adjusting assembly. Loosen the locking nut with a (10mm) wrench. Turn the treaded rod with a pliers or another wrench as you feel the pedal. If you grind going in reverse, you wnet too far :-) Actually, you will see the pedal move down, so you can tell when enough is enough."