Cannot Figure Out This P0011 Code All Help Appreciated

[Audb]

Hi guys, I've been having a problem ever since putting this car back together. Had the usual timing tensioner problem but ever since I've put everything back together I've gotten this P0011 code that I can't seem to pinpoint. I was wondering if anyone here has had the same problem, the list below is what was done so far.
-New head that I bought used online (valves were fine)
-New N205 solenoid
-New Cambridge
-Checked both cam/crank sensors, even replaced the camshaft because it was so cheap.
-New Intake camshaft because the old one the shaft and the gear broke apart (basically I could turn the engine by hand but the lobes weren't moving)
-Checked timing 3 times and everything was spot on
-Replaced chain and tensioner twice
-The car runs fine and I can seem to pinpoint the issue causing the P0011 code.
I'm all out of ideas and was wondering if anyone could help, I want to keep the car if I can get rid of the code so I can pass emissions but in the last 4 months I'm very tempted to sell it.

2010 Audi a4 2.0t MT 155k

Pics Included of timing measurements. (Balance shaft links were lined up when I first put the car together, it takes a couple rotations to line back up)

[Smac770]

So what is P0011 for our engine?

P0011
Intake (A) Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Advanced (Bank 1)
Difference between target and actual > 8° CRK and adjustment angle < 2.5° CRK

Some other related P codes:

P000A
Intake (A) Camshaft Position Slow Response Bank 1
Difference between target and actual > 8° CRK and adjustment angle > 2.5° CRK

P0016
Crankshaft Position – Camshaft Position Correlation
• Permissible deviation < -11° CRK OR > 11° CRK

So the ECU expects a certain correlation between the signals from the Crk PS and the Cam PS (position sensor).

The ECU can also modulate that correlation using the N205 solenoid. I would start by logging the values for IDE00178 (camshaft adjustment specified) and IDE00179 (camshaft adjustment actual). And see if they are not matching up. Also, what's the fault count on the DTC? Is this a frequent event, infrequent event, one time event? Is it at idle, at high rpm under WOT, etc.

Idling, it should show +27/28° (after TDC). When flooring it, the timing will advance to -26/27° (before TDC) for more torque. Internal EGR also uses the advanced values.

This relationship is adjusted by the adaptation value, which is relearned at idle and coolant over 60°C. You might check that value with a warm engine idling to see what it says. That value is already added to the real actual to get the ICE00179 value.

I don't know if the DTC text of "over-advanced" is entirely correct; maybe it means over-advanced or over-retarded as I assume the difference goes in both directions. At idle with an adjustment of +28°, if you're not getting P000A, then the timing would seem fine.

This is all of course arm chair speculation. I don't have a scope, which is the only way to really test any of this.

[Audb]

I can get it scanned on Tuesday and post everything here, sadly I don't have any pics of the last scan I did on it all I know was it threw a P0011 code and a friend of mine said everything looked normal. Its a frequent event, as soon as we cleared the code it popped up after 5-10 miles. When I first put the car back together it took around 20-30 miles for the code to come on. Car starts right up no other issues at all, I don't drive it hard so I never pushed the car to redline to find out what happens under WOT.

[GTA_G20]

Mine has the same problem. I’m removing the n205 tomorrow and am hoping I find a failed vvt valve


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[Smac770]

You used a new N205 and a new intake camshaft, but did you reuse the 4/3 valve that goes into the intake camshaft which the N205 controls? It's this 4/3 valve that actually makes the adjustment, and it can get hosed up. The normal P0011 exhibit is the center button on the valve has popped out (so it's always out instead of out when the N205 is activated). Could also be the screen came off your bridge and is lodged up in it?

With all the other parts replaced, I assumed this would have been replaced also.
https://parts.audiusa.com/p/54564003/06H109257C.html

[Audb]

Yeah I replaced that 4/3 valve, even though after inspection nothing was wrong with my old one. Sorry I forgot to add that part. I also took off the Cambridge recently to check for that screen and it's still intact. This is just a theory but when I installed the camshafts I didn't bleed out any of the valve lifters, could that be an issue or no? I never heard of anyone else doing it so I never bothered. Other than that I checked/replaced everything associated with valve timing.

[Theiceman]

About the only thing I can think of you are not going to like. And its a long shot...
Possibly you don't have the crank sprocket indexxed on the crank properly. It can happen and I have seen it.
To verify, use a dial indicator on cylinder one to determine true tdc. Then check your 61.7 measurement again ..

If it is out if spec it means your crank and cam won't agree


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[Smac770]

Yeah I replaced that 4/3 valve, even though after inspection nothing was wrong with my old one. Sorry I forgot to add that part. I also took off the Cambridge recently to check for that screen and it's still intact. This is just a theory but when I installed the camshafts I didn't bleed out any of the valve lifters, could that be an issue or no? I never heard of anyone else doing it so I never bothered. Other than that I checked/replaced everything associated with valve timing.

All the repair manual says is "don't start the engine for 30 minutes after installing the camshafts to allow the hydraulic components to equalize".

[Audb]

About the only thing I can think of you are not going to like. And its a long shot...
Possibly you don't have the crank sprocket indexxed on the crank properly. It can happen and I have seen it.
To verify, use a dial indicator on cylinder one to determine true tdc. Then check your 61.7 measurement again ..

If it is out if spec it means your crank and cam won't agree


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I checked that the first time I did a timing job, and all the pieces didn't look mushed or anything. Ill try to get my hands on a dial indicator and try it out but I thought if the sprocket was off overtime it would throw a p0016 code not a p0011.

[Audb]

All the repair manual says is "don't start the engine for 30 minutes after installing the camshafts to allow the hydraulic components to equalize".

I cant remember off the top of my head but I'm sure I waited because I quadruple checked everything before starting the car.

[Theiceman]

I checked that the first time I did a timing job, and all the pieces didn't look mushed or anything. Ill try to get my hands on a dial indicator and try it out but I thought if the sprocket was off overtime it would throw a p0016 code not a p0011.

Would depend which way is off.. plus we are grabbing at straws so need to eliminate stuff

You can use a wood dowel in the spark.plug hole when it gets to.the very top.stop.turning.
If this checks out then static timing is good and you have a vvt issue

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[Theiceman]

If you have vcds you should be able to monitor phase adaption..does it idle rough ?. this is all leaning towards a VVT issue for sure.

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[Theiceman]

You might find some good reading here

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...re-codes/page2

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[WhisperingAl]

As this thread is some time ago, was there any fix?
I have the same problem. P0011 after having a new cam belt and chain fitted.