B8 V8 S5 w/ 212,000 miles

[belgaonkar]

Hi V8 guys! Ive got a B8.5 A5 and recently (today) purchased a 2008 B8 S5 with 212,000 for dirt cheap. It's got a 6 speed manual and the previous seller claims he did a timing chain service at 110,000 miles and the car should be due for another one. I've been looking at the forums and nobody seems to be doing timing chains or tensioners on these V8s. I know that the non-FSI motors needed them, but has anyone had or seen a FSI V8 fail due to timing chains? Is there anyway I can inspect the chains without pulling the motor?

The car also has a locked up A/C compressor with no serpentine belt and a very dead battery so I haven’t t actually tried to start it yet. I'm looking forward to having some fun!

[GScot]

I haven't heard of any timing chain issues but that doesn't mean it's not out there. The compressor is located just above the water pump on the lower driver side. Access is not too terrible as I just replaced one on my 2008. Required service position and lowering the subframe. It does not have belt drive, it is driven from the rear of the engine by a drive shaft. Uncoupling the driveshaft was one of the worst parts of the job. Plenty of access but limited range to swing a wrench and it took some pretty tough wrenches to deliver the torque without flexing until out of travel room. FYI I picked up a Denso compressor, evaporator and dryer from Rock Auto of all places. Prices were the best by far.

[Sazexa]

Yeah I'm surprised he had timing chains done. He was probably told by someone who doesn't know the B8 S5 4.2L has updated guides. I've heard of cars at higher mileage than yours without having chains done on the B8 4.2L and the RS5 4.2L's as well.

I worked at a dealer and they had in a 260K V8 S5 once and still never had it have chains done.

[brilliant_black]

Yeah I'm surprised he had timing chains done. He was probably told by someone who doesn't know the B8 S5 4.2L has updated guides. I've heard of cars at higher mileage than yours without having chains done on the B8 4.2L and the RS5 4.2L's as well.

I worked at a dealer and they had in a 260K V8 S5 once and still never had it have chains done.

260k what I don't believe it haha.

I'd imagine at those miles the engine mounts, thermostat, fuel pumps, hoses, and other things were already done?

[Sazexa]

Yeah, it had plenty of service. But the chains were still okay and no slap.

I believe he did two thermostats, a waterpump the second time as precaution not need. Both front high pressure pumps, but only a filter twice on the rear pump. A few hoses and a few gaskets for leaks here and there.

Engine mounts, control arms twice. A lot of the usual stuff, including a few carbon cleans as well. He's also never replaced injectors. I was curious as he clearly drives it a lot and I asked him a lot of questions when he was there.

EDIT: It was very much mostly highway miles so maybe the fact that it was sustained loads without a lot of hard acceleration helped that a bit but I can't imagine it makes a crazy difference.

[belgaonkar]

The previous seller claims thats he spent $25,00+ on maintenance in the past 6 years of ownership and I believe it. Im gonna drive down to the shop that did the work and talk to them to get a better understanding. The car is missing the accessory belt on the front of the motor. I'll probably do a water pump/thermostat while i'm in there. If anyone’s got a DIY or a tech manual on doing the ac compressor I'd be very grateful

[GScot]

I meant to take pictures while swapping the compressor but I'm in Phoenix and just did it this July. Didn't take time, just worked from early a.m. until too hot. For starters you'll need to assume the position, it would have been possible with the nose forward but taking it off will make it much easier. And you'll need to or least I found it necessary to lower the subframe. Instructions for that can be found at 034 motorsport for engine mount replacement.

My suggestions based on what it seems you need with a dead battery and no alternator belt. First a battery and belt, gates belts can be had many regular auto parts stores and I have had good luck with them, had a continental go to pieces in about 10,000 miles. I'm sure you can source a battery as V8 Touregs and a few others use the same, just be aware that you need VCDS or similar to register the new battery once you have everything else working.

1. I would put the car on a lift if available or four jackstands as high as safe/practical. Since there may be a reason the belt is off I'd see if the alternator, idler and tensioner can be rotated maybe just have them on hand if you don't know how long since replacement.

2. Front off service position. If the hoses are old you'll want replacements on hand, if not you'll want some silicon o-ring lube for reassembly.

3. Lower subframe and remove engine mount near compressor.

4. Remove inner engine mount bracket, this one is a little tricky but an extended XZN socket will be handy.

5. Compressor driveshaft. Seems like 17mm and 19mm end wrench. You'll need tough wrenches because if they spring too much you run out of swing before the coupler is loose.

6. 4 bolts on the compressor and wiggle it out.

[belgaonkar]

Doesn't sound too bad, probably a weekend project for the fall. I do not have a lift, so jack stands it is. I picked up a used AC Compressor for $120 with a warranty.

Also bought a new AC Delco Battery for $140 from autozone. I know it doesn't have the BEM code, but ill deal with that later. After installing the new battery put the car in accessory position and got a TPMS error (who cares!) and a parking brake malfunction error. Immediately put some wood under the front tires and a wheel chock on the rear wheel. I cycled the parking brake and sounds just like my A5. The car was towed from the previous owner's driveway and the tow truck's battery box was not able to give the car enough power to turn off the parking brake. Again, i'll look into this a bit more once the car starts.

I also cleaned out the car and found a $3,700 (ouch!) receipt for the car from February. On the R.O. it noted that the fuel pumps should be replaced soon. Not sure if they were ever replaced so Ill have to take a look. I'm thinking that the bad fuel pumps scared the owner into possibly thinking the timing needed to be done again.

ECS sells an accessory belt kit with the belt and new tensioner for ~$180 so i'll put it on this weekend. Most likely going to just pull the front end off and do a coolant flush as I do not know when the last time the water pump was done. The expansion tank shows it is low on coolant, but it's parked on a pretty steep driveway.

I'm currently in the car for under $3k after buying the mentioned parts and the car.

[GScot]

Good luck. The parking brake can be released mechanically in case of electrical failure so you might check into that. Perhaps they had to back them off manually and it needs to be reset. I'd have to look it up but I think there is a menu item in the CAR section of MMI or maybe it's on the hidden menu. VCDS will have a procedure most likely.

I had a VW battery from the dealer that the ecu would not accept as valid. Ended up using the part number of the original blended with the date of mfg of the new one to fake a code. Registration worked once I lied to it. So with some luck you can probably fake it.

[belgaonkar]

I just changed a digit on the old battery’s serial number to make the car think it has a new battery with a BEM code. I do not have a VCDS cable, as OBDeleven has worked for everything I needed in the past. The car's not smart enough to know if thats the real installed battery, so it worked no problem. The old battery literally had 0V, even the physical indicator on the battery showed it was shot.

Today's project involved cleaning the white/silver alcantara. AoA confirmed that there were only 6 cars made with Meteor Grey and Black Leather w/ Pearl Silver Alcantara inserts. Take a look at this before and after on the seats. Cleaned up pretty well for 200k miles and a can of TuffStuff with an alcantara cleaning brush.

https://flic.kr/p/2gSk7x3

[belgaonkar]

Alright, so today I actually tried to start the car with the new battery. No accessory belt on it yet, but with a fully juiced battery it should crank over. The car made a high pitch wirring noise similar to injectors. The noise came from the back of the motor on the right side. After seeing the tech notes stating it would need both fuel pumps, I started to think that was the issue. Either that or injectors. I had a buddy try to start the car while sticking my head around the engine bay to see what was making noise. I then noticed a fresh leak, didn't have the distinct smell of gas, so not sure what it is. Anyone know what this is? I attached three pictures, one close up, one medium, and one from a distance.

#1 https://flic.kr/p/2gT242X

#2 https://flic.kr/p/2gT1bFL

#3 https://flic.kr/p/2gT23Zh

*edit- leak seems to be coming from the bottom of the connector where it connects to the block

[belgaonkar]

Looks like the Cam Adjustment Valve is leaking (N205). I understand its a big issue with the 2.0T's but didn't know it affected the 4.2's. I'll start by replacing the o-ring. I cannot imagine that a faulty N205 would cause a no start situation. I didn't see a p0011 code, but maybe I missed it. The car was not happy when I read the codes earlier with no seats! Does anyone have experience with N205's on the 4.2 S5? If the cam adjustment valve is shot, could that stop the motor from firing?

[GScot]

High pitched whirring noise from the right side of the engine. I didn't see that you mentioned whether or not it actually cranked the engine. Starter is on the right side, in line behind the alternator. It seems like you can access / change it from the front off service position after removing the alternator. Haven't done that so not sure what is involved but I've looked when I was under the car and that seemed to be the method, also seems some or maybe even all of the bolts are accessed from behind.

The fuel pumps are cam driven so they won't be turning unless the engine is turning.

[belgaonkar]

Carfax and previous owner's service history shows that the starter was replaced in 2017 when the car had 180,579 miles. Unless they put in a "autozone special" starter, it should not go bad in 30k miles. I do not hear the starter, but I just realized that I only had the clutch in and not the brake since it was hard to do with no seats. Let me put the seats in give it a try.

After further inspection, fuel pumps were replaced and the fuel "distributor" (part that sits right behind the intake, forget what it's called) was replaced with what looks like a CNC milled block and hard lines. The car has been sitting for 6 months so the fuel lines are probably dry.

[Sazexa]

Carfax and previous owner's service history shows that the starter was replaced in 2017 when the car had 180,579 miles. Unless they put in a "autozone special" starter, it should not go bad in 30k miles. I do not hear the starter, but I just realized that I only had the clutch in and not the brake since it was hard to do with no seats. Let me put the seats in give it a try.

After further inspection, fuel pumps were replaced and the fuel "distributor" (part that sits right behind the intake, forget what it's called) was replaced with what looks like a CNC milled block and hard lines. The car has been sitting for 6 months so the fuel lines are probably dry.

You shouldn't need both clutch and brake engaged to start the car. I can start mine with only the clutch pedal pressed.

[belgaonkar]

I can hear the starter click once after pressing the start-stop button. Checked the battery and its at 11V not 14V, so i'm gonna jump start it on the next try. I ordered a new N205 valve, and have to go pick it up from Audi Nashua on Thursday. I only ordered one since they are nearly $200 a piece and has 4! I do get a small discount by working for the Lyon-Waugh Auto Group, but no point throwing $500+ at it without confirming that it is causing the issue. I also got records that the accessory belt and tensioner was replaced April 2016, but I've already got a replacement tensioner so I might as well just install it. Previous owner was charged 6hrs labor to replace the accessory belt and tensioner.

[Illeagle24]

For what it’s worth I have a 2009 S5 (B8) with the 4.2L V8.

It has 117,000 miles on it and has been running like a champ!

I recently replaced the original battery after 10+ years!!

Love my S5!




- The iLLEagle24 (“Charlie”)

Los Angeles
* 2009 Audi S5 (B8) 4.2L V8
* Grey/White leather







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[belgaonkar]

The previous owner got charged 6hr labor to replace the serpentine belt and tensioner. I thought he got ripped off, but I decided to pull the entire front end off and it took 3.5hrs using an impact. Probably another 4-5hrs putting it back on, so I guess 6hr is kinda reasonable. Anyways, the idler pulley is wonky, like it is knotchy. Got a replacement one ordered. Was thinking about getting a new alternator, but too expensive. Anyways anything else I should I do while the front end is off?

IMG_2697.jpg

IMG_2698.jpg

[belgaonkar]

I installed the N205 valve on the 17th, but it didn't start. It doesn't matter since that was leaking and gummed up anyways. After researching the combination of EPC, Parking Brake, and TPMS light with a no start condition, it leads me to an immobilizer issue. When I went to first look at the car, it was unlocked and after giving it some power, the alarm went off. I'm still waiting for the Idler pulley (Thanks ECS) and after the front end is back together, i'm going to cycle the car with Unlock/Lock as well as using the key blade. This should hopefully correct any issues with the immobilizer. A VCDS scan shows that the drivers door keyless entry sensor is bad, which means the car is probably confused. Ordered a new Chinese sensor for $13.

The other explanation for the three light trio is the MAF sensor. I was going to clean it, but a new one was $90, so I've also got that on order.

My driveway situation is pretty bad right now with 4 cars, so I'd like to move the S5 to my parents garage in mid September once it starts to get colder. Hopefully I'll be able to drive it over

[GScot]

Good luck with the project. Thanks for keeping it updated and please continue. I'm curious to hear how the immobilizer plays out.

[belgaonkar]

Thats for the kind works and help!

Today was a smaller project that ended up taking 2 trips to the parts store and a trip to Auto Engineering to get the Idler Puller and Tensioner off. My car was missing the cap ($10 from audi) that covers the bolt on the Idler puller, this meant that the bolt was destroyed and I ended up hammering on a 12-point socket (~8mm) and using a big corded to impact to get it off. The 12 point went on really easily and with an impact, the bolt came out easily too. I could not find a DIY to replace the idler pulley anywhere, so hopefully this helps.

IMG_2735.jpg

[belgaonkar]

So, I was looking into the immobilizer issue. Couldn't figure out why the car didnt accept the key, but let it click the starter. Turns out there was no key battery. I've now transplanted the circuit board into another S5 key since the buttons on the old key are dented and the S5 badge on the back is missing. I plan to check the starter relay, but its under the washer fluid reservoir?

[belgaonkar]

Might be a dumb question, but doe anyone know where the starter relay is on a b8 s5? Couldn't find it online or in the owners manual. As mentioned before, when I try to crank the car I only hear one click. Although the carfax says that the starter was replaced 30,000miles ago, I'd like to check the relay, the battery overload protection trip fuse and the starter solenoid.

Also ordered spark plugs from RockAuto for $50 since they were on sale.

Its been a month of throwing parts at it, and I'm ready to just pay a diag fee to find out whats really wrong.

[belgaonkar]

Got a few parts that are gonna be installed this weekend. Gonna try a new door handle sensor. VCDS shows its faulty and could have an impact with my immobilizer issue. I'm also going to put a new starter relay. I'm starting to think there is a real mechanical issue with the block.

[ips_cou]

Might be a dumb question, but doe anyone know where the starter relay is on a b8 s5? Couldn't find it online or in the owners manual. As mentioned before, when I try to crank the car I only hear one click. Although the carfax says that the starter was replaced 30,000miles ago, I'd like to check the relay, the battery overload protection trip fuse and the starter solenoid.

Also ordered spark plugs from RockAuto for $50 since they were on sale.

Its been a month of throwing parts at it, and I'm ready to just pay a diag fee to find out whats really wrong.

In the B8 S5, the starter relay is under the ECU. You, have to pull the ECU box cover off, pull the ECU out(no need to disconnect the ECU from the harness), and the fuse block is in the bottom of the ECU box. I forget which relay it is though, I think there are at least 3 which look identical, it's one of those. Not sure what manual you are using, but it's in the wiring section, can be hard to locate.

If you are having immobilizer faults, do you have push-to-start? if so, Put the key fob in the dash receptacle and push and hold to start the car, this bypasses some issues. If you have push-to-start, and you get the 'clutch pedal is not pressed' msg, still hold down the clutch, then when pushing the start button, hold it down to override the fault(this last one may not work though if the immobilizer computer(Body Control Module(BCM))(in right rear of trunk just above and behind the wheel well)) has a issue, these partially fail from time to time giving phantom issues.

The starter in my B8 S5 went bad around 100k Miles fyi. Starter wouldn't start on first try sometimes when hot.

[belgaonkar]

Yep, I replaced the starter relay. The car is push to start, but I had the car properly diagnosed by an Indie Shop. Starter will not engage. I've been getting varying quotes from $1,300 at the dealer to a full engine out to replace the starter. If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay to replace the starter?

[belgaonkar]

The Audi workshop manual says to remove the engine, while some on Audizine were able to pull a motor mount to make space.

[belgaonkar]

Finally had the starter replaced. I heard it run for the first time today! After a few revs the CEl, EPC, TC light came on and the car stalled out. The MAF reading is almost at WOT and doesn't change when it's unplugged. Anyone had any experience with this type of electrical issue before? Check out the video of the car stalling out.

https://youtu.be/8Lr-AtWnU0Q

[ips_cou]

Yep, I replaced the starter relay. The car is push to start, but I had the car properly diagnosed by an Indie Shop. Starter will not engage. I've been getting varying quotes from $1,300 at the dealer to a full engine out to replace the starter. If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay to replace the starter?

I replaced the starter myself during other work. IIRC, you can either drop the tranny(not to bad, but two of the bellhousing bolts area PITA if you have the stock cats, requires some tool gymnastics, they are the ones above the front diff. and below the cats ), or remove the front core support, alternator, and engine mount, then you can access the starter(heres a link: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...as-well-V8-FSI photofukit has blurred the imgs though).

I believe I did both as a bolt snapped or something, cant really recall exactly. Don't reuse the aluminumized bolts, buy new ones, follow the torque specs. Someone worked on the car before me and left a wake a problems. And don't be fooled by Audi doing the work, they screw up all the time/cut corners. They will never touch my car again, they lied just about every time the car was taken in.

Finally had the starter replaced. I heard it run for the first time today! After a few revs the CEl, EPC, TC light came on and the car stalled out. The MAF reading is almost at WOT and doesn't change when it's unplugged. Anyone had any experience with this type of electrical issue before? Check out the video of the car stalling out.

https://youtu.be/8Lr-AtWnU0Q

I've not encountered this issue, but the car should run with the MAF disconnected, If you can get it to start again try hold the throttle to 2K rpm for 10-20 sec before slowly trying to let it idle itself. What are the actual values the ECU is giving? Also, Codes? My ABS pump was failing, it gave no codes for it, but weird shit like the Informit/Radio complete powering off while driving and not being able to turn back on till the ignition was cycled would happen, along with other random unrelated codes/problems.

You may want to pull the intake and check for carbon buildup in the intake runners in the heads, can cause idle problems, and it seems this car was abused.

[belgaonkar]

You may want to pull the intake and check for carbon buildup in the intake runners in the heads, can cause idle problems, and it seems this car was abused.

The S5 does seem like it was well enjoyed, but the service records show it was fixed no questions asked. The previous owner kinda just called it quits after spending nearly 30 grand in 6 years on repairs. I would too.

The car is throwing a bunch of fault to ground codes, which explain why the car thinks it at wide open throttle. Definitely an open circuit somewhere. Its currently sitting at Auto Engineering's shop in Lexington, MA. They are the kings of RS4s and Carbon Cleaning, so if it was a carbon buildup issue, they would have immediately diagnosed it. Receipts show carbon cleaning was done 100k miles ago.

There is a ground on the engine mount, which could be an issue or a blown relay/fuse. I am a Junior, majoring in Computer Engineering, so I know my way around testing relays/ fuses, but its time consuming work. Bundled with being a full time student and an internship, its just easier to have a shop diagnose it. I also do not want to stare at it my cramped driveway until next May.

I definitely plan to DIY the carbon cleaning myself this winter, but I have owned the S5 for nearly 3month and have not driven it more than 10ft

[volvofan]

Hey, young warrior-

I am right down the street from you in the next town over. I work near Hanscom and use their auto shop all the time. I have a walnut shell blaster for that carbon clean this winter and a portable lift that’ll get your car up about two and a half feet if you ever need to do more work like that, plus tons of other tools and know-how. Sorry I didn’t see your original post to help out when you first had the front torn apart, but I gotchu now if you need assistance.

-Jon

[volvofan]

Edit—

You’re a junior in college and you have a Porsche and TWO Audi 5 series?!?!

Damn, dude.

[belgaonkar]

Hey volvofan! I live right next to Hanscom/MIT Lincoln Labs and work on Hartwell Ave. Haha the Macan is my moms daily but she doesn't drive it much so I use it as a tow rig when needed.

I looked into the the Hanscom Air Force Base shop, but you must be active military/veteran to sign up and use it.

Auto Engineering actually diagnosed the fault to ground as a bad Bank 1 HPFP weird...

Anyways it runs great and other than the interior wear it really doesn't feel like a 212k mile S5. I'm super excited to daily the S5 now. I drive about 2,000 miles a month so it will be nice to have a car that won't really depreciate when I put mileage on it. I love how stock and quiet the S5 is. My A5 (current daily) has a testpipe and drones so much on the highway.

[belgaonkar]

So the S5 is having an issue where the clutch pedal will not come up fully. I've driven it about 50miles (VT temp tags in Massachusetts = scary) It makes it about 2/3 of the way up, then stops. If I give it some gas the pedal comes up with a clunk. Seeing as the previous owner replaced the slave cylinder 2,000miles ago, I'm going to start by bleeding the clutch. Previous owner also replaced the clutch 42k miles ago, so I doubt its worn out. Where is the nipple to bleed the clutch?

[Tom Servo]

Its on the Slave Cylinder itself, located on the top of the assembly, should be covered by a dust cap.