Block 094 Bank 1 was at 30 deg, Bank 2 was at 0 deg
Block 093 Bank 1 had no reading, Bank 2 was 0 (I think)
Both cams appeared to be locking when the engine stopped. So I was at my wits end until I remembered a post I saw years back in a W8 forum describing how they fixed cam correlation issues on those engines.
Anyone want to take a guess what I did.....?
Turns out that the solenoids work off a 5 volt signal. However, they can take up to 12V (and maybe more).
So I cut an old 2 prong plug out of an old harness I had, plugged it into the solenoid, grounded one side and then started tapping the positive lead on the positive terminal of my battery.
I started on bank 2 as I thought it was the defective one on account of it being at 30 degrees when the engine ran. At first I didn't hear much, then after about 30-40 cycles, the clicking sound got louder. Started it up and,,, nothing... I was still getting the cam code.
Then it dawned on me that the issue was in Bank 1 when I realized that it was stuck at 30 degrees. The reason that Bank 2 was at 0 was because that's the default position when there's a system failure.
I took my plug, put it on the Bank 1 solenoid for about 20-30 hits and started her up again.
BINGO!!!!! the cams are now working perfectly.
***One thing to note, the solenoids should make an audible 'click' when you touch the 12V source to them. If you can barely hear them, then they still need to worked back and forth until you can't miss the sound of them moving***
I'm not sure why I've never seen anyone refer to this fix here though? I would assume that SOMEONE would have had this issue at some point.
Regardless, if you're having cam correlation issues give this fix a try. It's a hell of a lot easier and cheaper than pulling the engine and/or replacing the cam adjusters/solenoids.
Here's a pic of what I used to knock the solenoids loose
20181009_011350 by zimbu themonkey, on Flickr******NOTE***** this is a repeat of post 18, but I wanted it up here where people can see it.
One other fix I should discuss is manually re-locking the adjusters.
This happened to me twice. Basically, I would get a cam code (not sure if it was exactly the same one as in the title).
What seemed to be happening was that on one of the engine, the adjuster wouldn't go back to it's locked position when the engine was shut off.
What I had to do was pull the valve cover, pull the little half moon in front the adjuster out of the way and put a 14mm triple square bit on the end of the adjuster. (you'll need to use a 9/16 box end wrench to hold the bit as there's no room for a ratchet) From there, I just rotated the cam until I heard the pin 'click' into place.
Now, what I can't say is if the adjuster not locking was because I was having solenoid issues or if it was an entirely separate issue. I highly suspect that it was the result of a bad solenoid and all I was doing by re-adjusting the adjuster manually was fixing a symptom of a failing solenoid.
With that said, I at least wanted to document my findings in case the adjusters not locking is an entirely separate issue.
You know, I'm really starting to wonder just how much time and money has been wasted either 1) replacing entire solenoids 2) replacing adjusters and 3) doing engine pulls when all that was required was to give the solenoids a quick zap......
PS: I recently heard that the new 3.6 Pentastar engine actually has a programmed in function to pulse it's solenoids at 12V busts for a brief period if it detects a jam.
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Originally Posted by jakeoboy67
like I said though, I'm really surprised that this isn't common knowledge around here. I know this HAS to be a common issue on these motors and to be honest, the fix that I used would have been apparent to just about anyone who did a cursory search on Google. 
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