A slow ass 400 CHP project thread

[i3oricua]

Been 'carbon cleaning' the cylinder head intake ports for a few days(!) using different kinds of chemicals: brake cleaner, lamp oil, gasoline, acetone...
Today I decided to try WD40 and the buildup I've been fighting to the point where my hands are really sore, it just came straight off. Love this stuff.

Here's the state of the block and pistons. Need to turn the engine and clean the remaining two pistons.

I am a little comprehensive about cleaning the gasket remnants off of the block and cylinder head mating surfaces. Any help in terms of advise on this is welcome.

Block (two to go):

WD-40 will work fine for that. You can take a rag and a razor blade to it carefully. Don't use a wire brush. You can use WD-40 on the tops of the pistons too and that's safe.

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[AudiB720TS]

WD-40 will work fine for that. You can take a rag and a razor blade to it carefully. Don't use a wire brush. You can use WD-40 on the tops of the pistons too and that's safe.

Thanks Edgar,



In other news:

The exhaust manifold is back from the head shop.
It's a bit hard to capture on camera in poor lightning, but the ports are gasket matched (+ 1-2mm ID) and some obstructions that existed early in the runners are removed.
I don't know if thus will make any kind of difference to performance (not going to the dyno let's say), but the job was a fair 100$ so I felt it was worth a try.


Manifold:


Ports:


Measurements:

[Dpartinvr4]

For a hundred bucks I mean it is what it is but you've got to think, you can have all on the flow in the world right there but it's still got to go through that tiny little orifice to get through the turbine wheel. That's where the biggest restriction with that size turbo is. You run into pre turbine pressure issues before you run out of flow

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[AudiB720TS]

Carbon cleaning the head is done (including combustion chambers):


Intake:


Exhaust:

[AudiB720TS]

Installing the ARP head studs was a total PITA. I made a bunch of mistakes that could have been avoided.
For anybody doing this later, here's a quick how-to to save you from those same mistakes!

REQUIRED TOOLS: see bold!

Cleaning the stud kit
ARP recommends 'cleaning' and 'inspecting' the kit components. Some sources online suggests washing in soap.
IMHO this is a bit like "the coffee cup is very hot" - a disclaimer transferring responsibility while in reality the would-be issue is a non-issue: Your stud kit is most likely fine (it's super expensive so...).
Besides, soap will not clean it (it's coated in some sort of grease).

Instead: spray the kit down with brake cleaner and inspect it a bit once dried (or do it during installation)


Cleaning the deck
If your engine is on stand the holes for the studs are probably cleaned by the engine builder (just eye them over). If your are installing or replacing ARP studs with the engine in the car however:

1. Tape the deck with some duct tape (hell yeah!), except for the stud holes
2. Spray brake cleaner in the holes and use a nylon pipe/bore brush to clean the holes
3. Use compressed air (cans will do) to blow out the fluid/grime OR combine with using a suction device (I used a small pipette)

NOTE: Some sources online suggest using a thread tap (thread chaser). I got these taps but its most likely overkill. I ended up not using a tap.

Installing the studs
ARP instructions says to install the studs first, then the head. This might work on the transverse engine (Golf R, S3...) but there's no way to install an assembled cylinder head over ARP studs on the A4
Again, if your engine is on a stand it doesn't matter.

1. Install head gasket
2. Install cylinder head
3. Insert ARP studs through cylinder head and hand tighten (you need an Allen key for reach!)
4. Coat ARP nuts and washers in the ARP installation grease
5. Use a magnetic pickup tool to transfer ARP washers onto head studs (go in a set order because it can be difficult to see which stud has a washer)
6. Use a magnetic pickup tool to transfer ARP nuts onto head studs and rotate it to begin seating each nut on its studs
7. Hand tighten each nut using a 12mm 12 point 3/8" drive socket on an extension.
8. Now use a 3/8" torque wrench OR a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter with a 1/2" torque wrench and tighten bolts following (picture) sequence, first to: 25 lbs (33.8 Nm), then: 50 lbs (67.8 Nm) and finally to 80 lbs (108.5 Nm)

NOTE: You cannot fit a 1/2" socket into the cylinder head unless the camshafts are removed. Hence a 3/8" socket is used.

[AudiB720TS]

I fired up the engine this evening. Low on coolant so will run it longer tomorrow. So far so good.
It's been exhausting though: EVERYTHING took a lot longer and was a lot harder than I had anticipated.

Changes / service in summary:

• CR is now 9.8:1
• Exhaust manifold is ported
• ARP cylinder head bolts installed
• New gaskets: tb, im, pcv, turbo, vc
• "Carbon clean" on intake, exhaust, and combustion chamber (incl. top of pistons)
• Wastegate adjusted (slightly less preload)
• New front PCV and hoses
• New oil and filter

head back on the car and engine timed:




Wastegate adjusted:


I ended up not reusing the DV+:


Cleaned the spark plugs:


Turbo back on:


FMIC back on:

[thenofjboy]

lookng good - great progress. Iridium spark plugs? what brand and you always run iridium or copper too?

[AudiB720TS]

lookng good - great progress. Iridium spark plugs? what brand and you always run iridium or copper too?

Thanks Sean,
Plugs are NGK “BKR8EIX” (2628).
I think typically “BKR7EIX” are recommended for stock or moderately tuned vehicle. Never used copper except for when completely stock.

[AudiB720TS]

The car is back on the road again. Feels very fast, even with boost turned down.

Got a small coolant leak on the hose in front of the timing belt cover. I’ll have to figure out how to fix that without changing the entire pipe/hose (because that means turbo comes off again). Duct tape to the immediate rescue however.

[AudiB720TS]

Made a short clip of how the car sounds at the moment. There's no BOV here

[AudiB720TS]

The start of a catch can project:

[AudiB720TS]

Landed a CTS Turbo billet valve cover on a recent sale. Had a friend in the US bring it over on the plane
Not really a fan of silver so will look into anodizing it or painting it black.






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[AudiB720TS]

Here's the start on the catch can project.

I got a (AN-10 ORB)AN-10 swivel mount from Nuke Performance. It gives me more choice when I route the AN-hose to the catch can.
As the name suggests, the connector rotates 180 degrees. Pricey, but impressive build quality.

I also got a Nuke Performance universal catch can. The second picture shows mock installation of the mounting bracket.
I plan to paint it black to avoid drawing too much attention to it during Swedish yearly car inspections...

Nuke Performance swivel fitting:


Nuke Performance catch can mount bracket:

[AudiB720TS]

Here's the plan for the catch can project. This basically emulates the IE kit available for the transverse platform.

[AudiB720TS]

The billet valve cover and recirculating catch can system is finally installed.

CTS Turbo billet valve cover (anodized black):


Turbo inlet fittings:


Nuke Performance catch can:



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[tommyf]

Did you do anything with the oem lpfp?

[AudiB720TS]

Did you do anything with the oem lpfp?

No, all mods should be on the first page of this thread.
My fueling appears fine for the power level.

[tommyf]

Thanks for the reply. It seems so counterintuitive to everything I've read about the original lpfp's flow capacity.

[tommyf]

Made a short clip of how the car sounds at the moment. There's no BOV here

I was looking for info on the fprv and ended up on this video: https://youtu.be/Tq0yjpje-TQ?si=WOe7jrfXmj9alZ-A. After looking on your profile I recognised the soundcheck video.

I asked it on youtube as well, but I thought might as well just reach out here. Can you remember which fprv manufacturer you contacted for recalibrating of the fprv? I wonder if they can help me out as well.

[AudiB720TS]

I was looking for info on the fprv and ended up on this video: https://youtu.be/Tq0yjpje-TQ?si=WOe7jrfXmj9alZ-A. After looking on your profile I recognised the soundcheck video.

I asked it on youtube as well, but I thought might as well just reach out here. Can you remember which fprv manufacturer you contacted for recalibrating of the fprv? I wonder if they can help me out as well.

I think the info is in the video description, but I used Dynodrome. Any of the Greek tuners will sell you one at an ”OK” price. Just get a standard 165 bar.

[tommyf]

I think the info is in the video description, but I used Dynodrome. Any of the Greek tuners will sell you one at an ”OK” price. Just get a standard 165 bar.

Thanks for the reply. I contacted dynodrome a week or so ago but
Unfortunately they were all out. The same goes for the ones in Scotland and UK. I eventually found one in the US for a good black Friday deal. Let's see when it will arrive.

[AudiB720TS]

Thanks for the reply. I contacted dynodrome a week or so ago but
Unfortunately they were all out. The same goes for the ones in Scotland and UK. I eventually found one in the US for a good black Friday deal. Let's see when it will arrive.

Ah, you may get hit with customs fees then.
With the Greek shops it seems best to call them as they can be a bit sketchy over email. Anyways, hope it works out.

[tommyf]

Ah, you may get hit with customs fees then.
With the Greek shops it seems best to call them as they can be a bit sketchy over email. Anyways, hope it works out.

Thanks man. I asked them about that and they offered to change the value on the declaration form. So hopefully, that won't be too bad in the end. I just hope the product is of good quality.

Btw, have been keeping up with your build for some time now. It's a great read. I noticed that many of the things I have done (or vice versa) you've done to the engine as well.
I run the loba lo400 but when the car was on the road, it was tuned to a conservative 350 hp and 450 nm due to the stock internals. Engine head and block are being rebuild as we speak to take it a step further.

[AudiB720TS]

Thanks man. I asked them about that and they offered to change the value on the declaration form. So hopefully, that won't be too bad in the end. I just hope the product is of good quality.

Btw, have been keeping up with your build for some time now. It's a great read. I noticed that many of the things I have done (or vice versa) you've done to the engine as well.
I run the loba lo400 but when the car was on the road, it was tuned to a conservative 350 hp and 450 nm due to the stock internals. Engine head and block are being rebuild as we speak to take it a step further.

Sounds good. Add a build thread ;)

[tommyf]

Sounds good. Add a build thread ;)

I am not as brave as you are haha, but I will think about it as I imagine it must take a lot of time to write and make videos and perhaps edit.

[AudiB720TS]

Car is running like a champ after fixing no less than three separate boost leaks.
Boost seeing 30 psi on the gauge. Butt dyno says more than 400 CHP.

[i3oricua]

Sounds like a good time

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[AudiB720TS]

Got a good deal on a slightly used set of RS3 (DAZA) injectors. Guy had them in a Golf R and blew the engine running a modified RS3 turbo on it.

Modified injector harness and RS3 injectors:



I also replaced the oil filter housing including oil cooler and added a stepped adapter to AN10 to reduce PCV leakage:

new oil filter housing with AN10 adapter: