APR Stage 1 v. Stage 2

[Junkyard Dog]

I have a 2014 A4, which is flex fuel. I run E85 in it most of the time. I have been considering visiting APR for an ECU upgrade, as they are not that far from me. I wanted to ask here, first, though. Is there any reason I would rather do a Stage 1 than just go ahead and do the Stage 2?

The price does not appear that much different.

What is the advantage to the Stage 1?

Is it just that the Stage 2 requires the APR downpipe?

Any idea what APR might charge for installation of the downpipe? Is installation of the ECU upgrade an extra cost on top of purchasing the Stage 1 or 2 upgrade? I am just trying to figure out what I might be in for and the real world cost differences and performance differences between the Stage 1 and Stage 2.

Is the intercooler upgrade required for either of these?

[earhythmic]

The advantage of stage 1 is that you don't need any hardware modifications. Might be a concern if you're worried about emissions tests in your state.

Stage 2 requires a high flow cat, not nesseccarily APR's full downpipe offering.

The high flow cat is very DIYable, but any competent shop could do it in a couple hours.

Depending on where you go to get the tune the shop may charge you an hour of shop time.

Intercooler isn't required but reccomended at any stage.

[b6onboost]

Realistically Stage 2 is going to cost twice as much.

Stage 1 is $600-750 depending on programs and small install feel. Stage 2 tune adds $150, HFC is $300, HFC install will be $200-300 depending on the shop. So $1200-1500.

The advantage to Stage 1 is the value. You get 90% of the gains for half the price. Plus you don't have to alter your exhaust, which may impact emissions and sound. The money spent on Stage 2 gets you a little quicker spool, a little more top end power, and a little deeper exhaust growl.

I am just trying to figure out what I might be in for and the real world cost differences and performance differences between the Stage 1 and Stage 2.

[vdubjetta02]

Intake, HFC and stage 2 tune is enough to keep me happy enough while driving my wagon.....

But I have never been a stage 1 person. I normally try to go full bolt on, with stock turbo. For some strange reason it just makes me like my cars more.

[bluefox280]

Due to Colorado Air Care testing and emissions, I haven't made the plunge from Stage 1 (APR 91 / 93 / E85) to Stage 2.
I love Stage 1 in my Allroad with E85; it very peppy and keeps with other faster / modified vehicles.

- Erik

[RickyB8A4]

Me personally, I went straight to Stage 2 (APR) from stock. I already had the HFC and an exhaust installed. My shop charged me $675 for the tune and install.
I love every moment of it so far!

[Audi 4 Life]

Me personally, I went straight to Stage 2 (APR) from stock. I already had the HFC and an exhaust installed. My shop charged me $675 for the tune and install.
I love every moment of it so far!

that doesnt make sense it cost more than that for apr you have to pay for stage 1 and stage 2 if you were stock. why was it only 675? apr rates are the same everywhere.

i did the same thing and paid over 1k but i also got program switching but still thats only 150$

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[A4x]

Shouldn't be over $1k. I paid something like $750 to go straight to stage 2, including the $133 for program switching (during a sale for 10% off).

Check the APR website. The prices are on there. Something like $500 stage 1 + $150 stage 2 upgrade + $150 program switching. I got it during a sale which was 10% off all of the above. And your shop should charge you 30 minutes or so of labor to flash your car.

I'm now K04 so APR has gotten a lot of my money

[mortimersnerd]

Heck my shop didn't even charge labor. I got out for about $800 for stage 2 with program switching.

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[A4fuzz]

I just got my car back from the shop today. I was APR Stage 1 for a couple months and loved it. I just had the downpipe, R8 coils and new plugs installed with the Stage 2 upgrade. Total cost was about $2200 with program switching, parts and labor. The APR downpipe added a nice growl to the stock exhaust.

[spinootz]

RT all the downpipe comments.
I'm running about a month &1/2 with stage 2 and I love it. The growl is the main reason I went right to stage 2

[jc_B8_A4]

I'm considering going apr stage one or maybe even the jump from stock right to stage 2 with the downpipe. However I do have a slight case of wastegate rattle. It still pulls good and I've only gotten the boost leak code a few times on really hot days but would it be a good idea to first replace the k03 before adding any extra power?


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[RG4]

Most shops will charge you an hour of labor to do any kind of flash, so expect $100-$150 fee each time you take the car in. This is where you'll save cash if you do decide to go stage 2 down the road, however it's not that big a deal in the grand scheme of things.

I went straight to stage 2 only because APR gave me a killer deal on it at Waterfest. I have to tell you though, an intercooler is pretty much required. The car will heatsoak so quick on stage 2. Feels peppy for the first few minutes after you get it up to running temp then starts to get lethargic.

My advice: go stage 1 now and start accumulating hardware for stage 2 down the road if you feel like you need more powah

[mortimersnerd]

Call around. Not all shops charge labor.

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[RickyB8A4]

that doesnt make sense it cost more than that for apr you have to pay for stage 1 and stage 2 if you were stock. why was it only 675? apr rates are the same everywhere.

i did the same thing and paid over 1k but i also got program switching but still thats only 150$

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I didn't get the program switch I just went from stock to Stage 2.
I got my tune around a time of a 10% discount. I was able to negotiate to $675 cash labor and install. Always negotiate prices.
And rates for the tune depends on the shop, APR doesn't moderate them.

[AudiFan9]

sorry for the noob question but having read a number of threads here (running a rather slow search for a used A4), I've come across a number of mentions of APR, Tuning and stage 1 and stage 2. I don't know much about cars other than driving them but I'm understanding that those terms are for some sort of upgrade of the car engine. What outcome are you guys trying to get exactly? Is it louder sound or more speed, or something else entirely?

My main concern is if I do find a used A4, (from reading some threads, any modifications can void a warranty or prevent audi from doing any work on the car), is there a way to visually tell if there was something done?

thanks

[Richieru456]

I didn't get the program switch I just went from stock to Stage 2.
I got my tune around a time of a 10% discount. I was able to negotiate to $675 cash labor and install. Always negotiate prices.
And rates for the tune depends on the shop, APR doesn't moderate them.

I was told apr does moderate the price the tune is sold for. Now I'm gonna have to ask a few more places.

[RickyB8A4]

sorry for the noob question but having read a number of threads here (running a rather slow search for a used A4), I've come across a number of mentions of APR, Tuning and stage 1 and stage 2. I don't know much about cars other than driving them but I'm understanding that those terms are for some sort of upgrade of the car engine. What outcome are you guys trying to get exactly? Is it louder sound or more speed, or something else entirely?

My main concern is if I do find a used A4, (from reading some threads, any modifications can void a warranty or prevent audi from doing any work on the car), is there a way to visually tell if there was something done?

thanks

APR is one of the few tuning companies specifically for our car. We are talking about an ECU tune in which they usually just plug it in to a computer to do it, or they may have to remove the ECU to do so.
APR Tuning for Audi A4 B8s
Stage 1 is usually the first thing people get to get a feel of what a tune has to offer. Stock HP and TQ is 211/259. Stage 1 tune is 266/322. Most people feel a big difference, night and day, with stage 1. At the price of $600.
Stage 2 is the next step if you want more power, giving our cars, 291 HP 354 TQ. Either pay full $750 or upgrade from stage 1 for $150.

Note that Stage 1 has no pre-requirements to install the software so you can get that whenever. Stage 2 however needs a HFC (High-Flow Catalytic Converter).
Depending on your exhaust set-up it does change the sound. It definitely did for mine.
The tune itself won't be visually visible. But once they plug your car into a computer and see that the ECU has been tampered with. They will flag it and most likely make an excuse and say the ECU tune damaged the car and make you pay tons of money, even if the ECU did not damage the car. But if you plan on modifying your car, your best deal is to go to European/Tuner shops. Since they have better knowledge usually.

Louder Sound? Depends
More speed? Yes

Don't limit yourself to just APR. There are other tune out there like REVO, Uni, GIAC, etc. Do research, ask questions. Took me a long time to decide on APR. But I'm loving every moment of it. Also, most tunes are very similar with small differences between them. So any would be fine.

[RickyB8A4]

I was told apr does moderate the price the tune is sold for. Now I'm gonna have to ask a few more places.

Who told you that? I was always able to negotiate with all the shops for multiple tunes. And before you ask please remember that I negotiate at a price around a sale price. Don't expect to get $675. You can maybe try for $750 flat with no install fee.

[Aidanpoole24]

So can you go from stock to stage 2? Whats the end price from going complete stock directly to stage 2 and everything that's required to do so.

[byront8]

So can you go from stock to stage 2? Whats the end price from going complete stock directly to stage 2 and everything that's required to do so.

Go via IE (www.performancebyie.com) and it’ll be around $1400 to go to stage2 with their intake, tune and downpipe.

They are running an Independence Day sale currently with 10% off tunes.


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[bb-tt]

Go via IE (www.performancebyie.com) and it’ll be around $1400 to go to stage2 with their intake, tune and downpipe.

They are running an Independence Day sale currently with 10% off tunes.


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This!

[max8126]

IE currently has no E85 support though.

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[Nano909]

If you want to be fast, go APR. If you want to be slow, go with another company.

That being said, it's better to go straight to stage 2. Get it over with, you'll hardly feel any difference (maybe not at all) with stage 1. You won't regret it.

[Jet08]

First time I have seen that comment "If you want to be fast go APR" I believe IE allow a bit of tuning adjustment if you provide them some logs, I am a Unitronics user so not bashing either tune company.

[Nano909]

First time I have seen that comment "If you want to be fast go APR" I believe IE allow a bit of tuning adjustment if you provide them some logs, I am a Unitronics user so not bashing either tune company.

Fastest B8 A4's are all APR tuned

[Slayden]

Hey so my car is currently APR stage 1. I have recently bough a CTS High flow cat in preparation to go to stage 2. The only shop near where I live that does the APR tune say they will not install customer supplied parts. So my question is, would it be ok to have the car tuned, then driven to another shop to have the HFC installed? or vice versa?

Thanks!

[mortimersnerd]

You can run the HFC on the stage 1. May throw a code causing a CEL for emissions compliance. Probably wouldn't hurt the stock cat or turbo to do it the other way around for a short time, but I haven't personally done it. Id drive a long way to avoid a shop that refused to install customer supplied parts.

[Jason11213]

From my experience I went with Uni's stage 1+ but only had it for about 1 month before I added the test pipe, intercooler and went with stage 2. And I only stayed stage 2 for about 2 months before I bought the K04 turbo and went with that. Even now I'm already looking RS5's and I've only had the K04 for about 3 months. Bottom line I would get as much power as you can afford because in the end it will never be enough lol