Car won't crank / start after new battery is installed (2011 B8 S4)

[rhanson]

Hi,

My 2011 S4 stranded my GF last week. Dash lights came on when she attempted to start the car and clicking from solenoid starter only- We jumped the car and drove it home. Took the battery to AutoZone for a check-up. The man at the store stated that the battery was in need of replacement. Bought new spec'ed Duralast Gold (store brand) and took home to install. Installed without fuss. Now the car only locks / unlocks from the fob. No lights appear at all on the dash when attempting to start. No headlights come on either. Checked all fuses on left (US driver side), but can't see any that may be blown. Checked trunk/boot fuses too. All ECM related fuses seem good.

I pulled out in-line positive battery sensor/fuse (part# BAM-PT1-1206) from the part# 4F0-915-519 assembly. Not sure if this is the culprit. Need to put it on the multimeter this afternoon.

Any other ideas what may be the causation for no power other than central locking?

Thanks,
Ryan

[WarmFuzzies]

did you code the new battery to your car?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ry_Replacement

[TexasDfwS4]

The coding will take care of it but you should be able to take a little drive 60 mile or so and it will adjust.

[rhanson]

I did NOT code the battery, but then again the battery from AutoZone appears to NOT have any code on it.

Coding through VCDS only? I'm a novice when it comes to VCDS. I tried clearing any nascent codes with an OBDII scan tool, but there's no interface with the car because there's no ignition / accessory present.

[esimp2k]

You don't need to code it. It should start immediately with the new battery although it may take a little for it to learn it's got a new one. I've replace mine and the car reads it as fully charged. There's another thread in here with more links and details.


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[esimp2k]

I did however hook up a trickle charger when I was replacing it to not lose power altogether so that may have something to do with it.


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[jonwoods]

It wouldn't surprise me if the central locking module uses a separate positive feed from the battery that isn't protected by the main fuse. Start by checking the voltage at the positive terminal in the engine bay and check the continuity of the fuse you removed.

[AZAudib8]

I installed a new battery and never did code it and the car was fine.

[rhanson]

I have a battery tender, but did not use it in this occasion.

*New Development*

I just hooked up the battery after affirming the positive terminal in-line fuses were good. As connection established the ECU or relative area clicked once. I pressed the fob button and as the car locked and unlocked the passenger side and rear signals flashed, but there was NO flash from the driver side or front lights.

What's that mean?

Also, still NO crank/start.

[Dirt]

Im 99% sure you need to code the battery to the car. Basically your car thinks it still has a dead battery in it and is acting accordingly.

[DBFL]

Im 99% sure you need to code the battery to the car. Basically your car thinks it still has a dead battery in it and is acting accordingly.

This.
Have you tried hooking the car up to VCDS? Even if it's not a battery coding issue, you may have a fault code or two that could point you in the direction.

[rhanson]

This.
Have you tried hooking the car up to VCDS? Even if it's not a battery coding issue, you may have a fault code or two that could point you in the direction.

I don't have VCDS available at home, but imagine that this issue has to do with the anti theft system. Can VCDS clear a fault code(s) for immobilization?

As I was reinstalling the U shaped steel bracket that supports the spare tire, it inadvertently came in contact with the battery cable and the interior lights suddenly came on. I tried the ignition, and Eureka!, it started. However, the engine died about 5 secs afterward and would not restart immediately. This is a process I can re-create.

[DBFL]

I don't have VCDS available at home, but imagine that this issue has to due with the anti theft system. Can VCDS clear a fault code(s) for immobilization?

As I was reinstalling the U shaped steel bracket that supports the spare tire, it inadvertently came in contact with the battery cable and the interior lights suddenly came on. I tried the ignition, and Eureka!, it started. However, the engine died 5 secs afterward and would not restart immediately. This is a process I can re-create.

VCDS can clear any fault code. But more importantly, it'll tell you what's actually wrong. And they recently released lower priced cables, so it's worth looking into for anyone modding or doing DIY maintenance. I don't know the exact reason for coding a battery, but theft prevention seems like a likely one. Also, I wouldn't keep touching the bracket to the cables. That's a good way to blow fuses and relays and even short out some of the electronics.

[rhanson]

VCDS can clear any fault code. But more importantly, it'll tell you what's actually wrong. And they recently released lower priced cables, so it's worth looking into for anyone modding or doing DIY maintenance. I don't know the exact reason for coding a battery, but theft prevention seems like a likely one. Also, I wouldn't keep touching the bracket to the cables. That's a good way to blow fuses and relays and even short out some of the electronics.

Aye, aye. Thanks DBFL. I am certainly not trying to add complexity to this issue. Wish I had VCDS on hand. I'm planning a roadtrip for Thursday so 2-day post is tight. Do you have any opinion or knowledge of the scanner linked below?

https://www.amazon.com/Xtool-Vag401-...&keywords=vcds

[DBFL]

Aye, aye. Thanks DBFL. I am certainly not trying to add complexity to this issue. Wish I had VCDS on hand. I'm planning a roadtrip for Thursday so 2-day post is tight. Do you have any opinion or knowledge of the scanner linked below?

https://www.amazon.com/Xtool-Vag401-...&keywords=vcds

Never seen that one before. The official Ross-Tech cable is the way to go. Carista may be able to do this (it does some of the stuff VCDS can do) but I'm not really sure. Someone with carista would be able to confirm this. And you can get the carista adapter on amazon.

[LYKUNO]

I don't have VCDS available at home, but imagine that this issue has to do with the anti theft system. Can VCDS clear a fault code(s) for immobilization?

As I was reinstalling the U shaped steel bracket that supports the spare tire, it inadvertently came in contact with the battery cable and the interior lights suddenly came on. I tried the ignition, and Eureka!, it started. However, the engine died about 5 secs afterward and would not restart immediately. This is a process I can re-create.

This is a long shot, but there is a pyrotechnic fuse/breaker in the positive battery terminal that may have been triggered. It's typically there in case the car is involved with a collision, and will keep some circuits (e.g., lighting) operating, but will prevent others (e.g., cranking) from working. I'm wondering if in the process of being shorted out with the bracket, this safety device may have been triggered. Read more about this device/feature in this thread. You might be able to bypass the breaker, or at least test continuity with a Digital Volt-Ohm Meter.

Just noticed the video in that thread show how to bypass the faulty breaker in that positive battery terminal. You can try doing this bypass test (carefully! don't short anything to ground!!!) and see if your car will start. If it does, you will need the breaker part replaced.

Edit: Noticed you pulled that part for the battery fuse/breaker -- did it test good? This is that part that I've been referencing in my comments:

[rhanson]

This is a long shot, but there is a pyrotechnic fuse/breaker in the positive battery terminal that may have been triggered. It's typically there in case the car is involved with a collision, and will keep some circuits (e.g., lighting) operating, but will prevent others (e.g., cranking) from working. I'm wondering if in the process of being shorted out with the bracket, this safety device may have been triggered. Read more about this device/feature in this thread. You might be able to bypass the breaker, or at least test continuity with a Digital Volt-Ohm Meter.

Just noticed the video in that thread show how to bypass the faulty breaker in that positive battery terminal. You can try doing this bypass test (carefully! don't short anything to ground!!!) and see if your car will start. If it does, you will need the breaker part replaced.

Edit: Noticed you pulled that part for the battery fuse/breaker -- did it test good? This is that part that I've been referencing in my comments:



Thanks LYKUNO. I did pull and test the "pyrotechnic" fuse. It seemed good. I ordered a new one just to compare.

I also went to the local dealer today, they were not really of much troubleshooting help. From there I went to an independent shop that specializes in Audi/VW. The shop attendent stated to check the ground wire connection as the car fired up after I may have introduced ground with the spare tire / battery cage. If it is immobilized only the dealer can unlock it apparently.

I'm about to roll up my sleeves again to take a look.

[Dirt]

And this is why I paid the dealer to do mine. :)

(first time I've ever done that)

[rhanson]

*Solution*

The ground wire and associated connections may have been loose, as I re-tightened all the nuts. Whatever I did, the car liked this as it clicked and lit up with joy (literally the lights came on). I tried ignition and all was back to normal. Thanks to everyone for all the great advice. This forum truly helped.

[LYKUNO]

*Solution*

The ground wire and associated connections may have been loose, as I re-tightened all the nuts. Whatever I did, the car liked this as it clicked and lit up with joy (literally the lights came on). I tried ignition and all was back to normal. Thanks to everyone for all the great advice. This forum truly helped.

Yeah! Glad you got it worked out in time for your road trip!