Recieved $6.6k quote from dealer for 10 issues. Help Identifying DIY opportunities

[never_comment]

Below is the list of my 2007 A4 2.0T issues from the dealer. Obviously the dealer markup is insane. I need help identifying DIY opportunities. I have previously worked heavily on two 1980's motorcycles, but have been fairly hesitant to dig under the hood of the Audi besides replacing the PCV valve. I think the depreciation is finally to a point where I am less worried about breaking something.

Thinks I am planning on doing easily:
-Wipers Replace
-Front Fog Light Housing Replace
Thinks I am planning on doing otherwise:
-Vacuum Pump Replace
Thinks I will likely ignore:
-Engine Belly Pan
The Rest:
-Upper Control Arm Bushings
-Left Front Inner CV Boot
-All 3 Motor Mounts
-Front Lower Control Arms
-Sway Bar Links

For the rest, even after looking though the DIY's here, I have no idea 1) how easily I can do them? 2) how critical they are? 3) If there are any I should group together/do at the same time (it seems like the Upper Control Arm Bushings, Left Front Inner CV Boot, Front Lower Control Arms, and Sway Bar Links are all close together and require I remove my front tires to get to them)?

Also the coolant flange replace is one I am debating doing myself or going to a shop because of the difficult location (makes you miss working on motorcycles)?

Any advice would be appreciated.


*I should mention that the Dealership Estimate does not breakout parts/labor and is separate from the DIY Repair. The 'Part Total' is the cost for me to buy (total quantity).

[billyhoyle]

My mind can't comprehend these dealership estimates. Almost $600 for a belly pan?? Insanity. Rockauto used to have a knockoff for $30, and you can get aluminum versions (thor is one, dieselgeek is another) for under $300.

None of those items are extremely difficult, but the coolant flange is challenging (more tedious than anything), but you'll save yourself a ton of dough and there are DIYs for it on here. Honestly, if you have a jack, a decent set of tools, and aren't a complete rookie, you can do all of these yourself. You'll need a press for the UCA bushings, but you can find whole new control arms for pretty cheap (check fcpeuro for example). Check ebay/classifieds for a used fog light housing.

$1200 for the motor mounts is also insanity. I did this recently and it took about an hour and cost $200 for the parts (034 motorsports mounts).

[nizmosx]

the most disturbing part about the belly pan is that the little bolts that hold it onto the car are about 30 bucks a piece and that you need about 10.

[Chris@EPL]

Get a full control arm kit and just replace everything.

[never_comment]

$1200 for the motor mounts is also insanity. I did this recently and it took about an hour and cost $200 for the parts (034 motorsports mounts).

Don't you need to lift the motor to do the motor mounts? How did you do this?

[vwnobby]

the most disturbing part about the belly pan is that the little bolts that hold it onto the car are about 30 bucks a piece and that you need about 10.

What's more disturbing is the 3 HOURS they are putting down to, what I assume, install the belly pan!!!!!

[never_comment]

the most disturbing part about the belly pan is that the little bolts that hold it onto the car are about 30 bucks a piece and that you need about 10.

Sorry my sheet wan't clear, the 'Dealership Estimate' does not breakout parts/labor and is separate from the 'DIY Repair'. The 'Part Total' is the cost for me to buy (total quantity).

Though last time I went to Audi they said those bolts were ~$12/each and then just gave me a couple out of shame.

[never_comment]

Get a full control arm kit and just replace everything.

So it looks like a full control arm kit would take care of three of these line items (plus extra parts). But the full kits appear to be pretty costly (I know they are improved parts). Any suggestions of kits that you would recommend.

[Cobra351]

So it looks like a full control arm kit would take care of three of these line items (plus extra parts). But the full kits appear to be pretty costly (I know they are improved parts). Any suggestions of kits that you would recommend.

They're hosing you. I got this full front control arm kit. Has everything that you need, even all new bolts.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...4-1160500085hd

[miA4]

They're hosing you. I got this full front control arm kit. Has everything that you need, even all new bolts.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...4-1160500085hd

Was going to recommend FCP. Beat me to it. In all honesty there's maybe $1500.00 worth of parts for him to replace. The only question to really ask yourself is, do you plan on keeping the car for a while?

[Charles.waite]

I havent read the post yet, but every time I read a title with "Recieved quote from dealer for X issues", I get a warm fuzzy feeling in my tummy.

Read the post now. Jesus H Christ, those dealer rates for what I assume are labor are INSANE! SMMFH....

All of this stuff can easily be done with hand tools and either jack stands or ramps. I've done pretty much every one of these with those and its generally been fine.

Things like control arms should just be replaced, don't mess around with replacing bushings on those unless you're REALLY strapped for cash. Check out FCP or if you really want high quality go with Lemforder.

Sway bar links are easy DIY those. As are engine mounts. When they say 3 engine mounts I assume they mean the main 2 and then the snub mount. A Poly snub mount costs $25 and takes literally 15 minutes to install including time to jack up the front end. The other two motor mounts are a bit more involved, but not too hard. I would get 034 Street Density motor mounts.

Vacuum pump is held on my 3 torx bolts in the back, the part is expensive, but its a 5 minute job. Literally, 5 minutes. Depending on where its leaking from you might get away with just replacing the $5 O-Ring on it and reinstalling it.

[Charles.waite]

the most disturbing part about the belly pan is that the little bolts that hold it onto the car are about 30 bucks a piece and that you need about 10.

No they're not. You can find kits on ebay for $60 or so. they're shitty aluminum bolts, you don't need OEM stuff for those. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-A-4-02-...-/351869828492
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Don't you need to lift the motor to do the motor mounts? How did you do this?

A jack and a block of wood to distribute the force.

[never_comment]

They're hosing you. I got this full front control arm kit. Has everything that you need, even all new bolts.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...4-1160500085hd

Not to be super cheap, but what is the difference b/t that $490 kit and this $335 kit:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...4-b7option3kit

For all the effort I am willing to spend more...just want to make sure there is an appreciable difference.

[gonemtbiking]

A jack and a block of wood to distribute the force.

+1

Although you dont have to lift the engine if you done want to (can lower the subframe), but you will need to support it.

If doing the motor mounts though, do yourself a favor and get a stubby flex 13mm ratcheting wrench. http://www.ebay.com/itm/13mm-Stubby-...686083&vxp=mtr

[gonemtbiking]

Not to be super cheap, but what is the difference b/t that $490 kit and this $335 kit:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...4-b7option3kit

For all the effort I am willing to spend more...just want to make sure there is an appreciable difference.

I and countless other people here have used the $335 kit with great results.

[DC5]

Holy crap that's a crazy I started doing most of these replacements not knowing anything. Just read the diy's on here & don't hesitate to ask questions most look intimidating but really aren't. You need a lot of patience, right tools & PB Blaster lol I got my complete control arm set from fcp euro & happy with them. The coolant flange is a PITA (use a small mirror) sure the hell isn't $1,300 hard! (BTW I know what you mean, I rebuilt my husband's Vintage Vespa's engine...much easier access!!! )


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[Cobra351]

Not to be super cheap, but what is the difference b/t that $490 kit and this $335 kit:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...4-b7option3kit

For all the effort I am willing to spend more...just want to make sure there is an appreciable difference.

Can't say- as this is the first time that I'm replacing the front suspension. Either way you should be fine. FCP Euro has a lifetime warranty- yes, even on wearable items.

[KJack]

Hell yes, do it yourself. It will be a great learning opportunity and you'll save a lot of money. As was mentioned above, make sure you have the right tools (makes a huge difference) and follow the DIYs. My IQ is a shade above chimpanzee level and I've been successful in my Audi DIY endeavors so far, so it should easy for you.

[b7_Andy]

Pay me $6,600 and I'll fly out to Houston, do all the repairs for you, pull your motor and rebuild it and get a big turbo to make the car stage 3, put it all back together, then take it apart again just for fun. And then buy you dinner at the nicest restaurant in town... What do you say?


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[aluthman]

Pay me $6,600 and I'll fly out to Houston, do all the repairs for you, pull your motor and rebuild it and get a big turbo to make the car stage 3, put it all back together, then take it apart again just for fun. And then buy you dinner at the nicest restaurant in town... What do you say?


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You'd be hard pressed to do that and have enough left over to make it even remotely worthwile.

[gonemtbiking]

You'd be hard pressed to do that and have enough left over to make it even remotely worthwile.

I was gonna say...that's not that bad of a deal

[billyhoyle]

No they're not. You can find kits on ebay for $60 or so. they're shitty aluminum bolts, you don't need OEM stuff for those. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-A-4-02-...-/351869828492
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A jack and a block of wood to distribute the force.

Bingo. A stubby ratcheting 13mm is highly recommended...I managed to do it with a non-ratcheting stubby, but it took a while.

There's an FCP Euro thread on here somewhere where there is a discount code for the suspension kits, too.

[RakkCity]

Bingo. A stubby ratcheting 13mm is highly recommended...I managed to do it with a non-ratcheting stubby, but it took a while.

There's an FCP Euro thread on here somewhere where there is a discount code for the suspension kits, too.

Was gonna say this, I got my FCPEuro set for $298 including tax and shipping



I wanna say the code is AUDIZINE90


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[bwizard]

The stealer ship is ripping you off the belly pan would have to come off to do motor mounts anyway. When I worked for a dealer that would just be a part cost.

Sent from my S4's talk to text @ a buck thirty

[RyGuy1050]

Motor mounts are simple of you have access underneath the car, I just put 034 mounts on my car... there are a few write ups.. definitely make sure to get a stubby 13 as previously stated.. beware of the coolant flange.. all my coolant hoses were stuck fast to the pipes and flanges, don't want to break anything else wrestling them puppies. 😂

[b7_Andy]

You'd be hard pressed to do that and have enough left over to make it even remotely worthwile.

True, the nicest restaurant in town would probably blow through the budget

[aluthman]

True, the nicest restaurant in town would probably blow through the budget

That or the BT kit.

[b7_Andy]

That or the BT kit.

Oh ya I forgot how much those cost. That could cause a problem

[Charles.waite]

Details.

[wding2000]

Group these into three groups, attack one at a time:
- vac pump and coolant flange: w/ vac pump off, more room to access flange
- upper/lower arms/sway bar links/CV boot
- engine/snub mounts

That belly pan thing does not even warrant as a task, but throw it on when finishing other jobs, or next oil change.

[b7_Andy]

Group these into three groups, attack one at a time:
- vac pump and coolant flange: w/ vac pump off, more room to access flange
- upper/lower arms/sway bar links/CV boot
- engine/snub mounts

That belly pan thing does not even warrant as a task, but throw it on when finishing other jobs, or next oil change.

2.0 might be different but I know with my car the lower control arms can't be done without removing the motor mount brackets. So those 2 would go together, but then again I'm not sure if the 2.0 is different.

[Charles.waite]

Lower arms can definitely be done with the motor mounts in.

[b7_Andy]

Lower arms can definitely be done with the motor mounts in.

Damn, well that's kind of lucky

[never_comment]

Group these into three groups, attack one at a time:
- vac pump and coolant flange: w/ vac pump off, more room to access flange
- upper/lower arms/sway bar links/CV boot
- engine/snub mounts

That belly pan thing does not even warrant as a task, but throw it on when finishing other jobs, or next oil change.

Thanks for the response. I am buying parts now.

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[RakkCity]

Group these into three groups, attack one at a time:
- vac pump and coolant flange: w/ vac pump off, more room to access flange
- upper/lower arms/sway bar links/CV boot
- engine/snub mounts

That belly pan thing does not even warrant as a task, but throw it on when finishing other jobs, or next oil change.

Great advice, this could be knocked out in 3 weekends tops, but probably even in 2.

[MISKIE]

That's why I love this forum: you ask, you'll get the answer from the experts!!!


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[vvenom800tt]

everything on that list is easy to replace, buck up and just do it. There are plenty of DIYs to guide you.

There's this neat thing called a search button. Its your friend

[never_comment]

everything on that list is easy to replace, buck up and just do it. There are plenty of DIYs to guide you.

There's this neat thing called a search button. Its your friend

Yeah, I've read through the relevant DIY's, but when you read a comment by someone saying it took them 10 hours to replace a coolant flange, you start to wonder.

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[Charles.waite]

Anyone who takes 10 hours to replace their coolant flange shouldn't be working on their car.

Is it a shitty job? Yes. Your back will hurt for days after. But it's only a 2-3 hour job if you're working at a leisurely pace.

[vvenom800tt]

Yeah, I've read through the relevant DIY's, but when you read a comment by someone saying it took them 10 hours to replace a coolant flange, you start to wonder.

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Then that person is fucking retarded and shouldnt ever work on their own car. Coolant flange should take about an hour.