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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    DIY B6/B7 A4 02X -> 0A3 swap

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    Now that this swap has been finished for a while, I figure I'll update this first post and turn it into a parts list and try to provide all the information you'll need to do this swap. I don't think I'll make a DIY of pulling the motor/trans/other drivetrain parts because there's a ton of pictures I'd need that I don't have. So if there's any questions about actually removing or changing parts that's not covered in the thread, feel free to ask and I'll help ya out.

    So if you're starting with a 6-speed 02X car, this swap is pretty straight forward and there is no wiring modifications needed at all. If you are starting as a 5-speed 01A B6, mechanically the swap should be the same, but you will probably need to wire a new connector to your reverse light switch, and possibly come up with a solution for your wheel speed sensor (since I'm not sure if the early 5-speed B6's measure wheel speed in the ABS or on the transmission like the B5s do). If you're swapping from an automatic, mechanically the swap is really similar and you will want all the parts I list, plus a pedal assembly, manual front subframe and transmission mount crossmember, and some wiring modifications that I won't be going over in this thread.

    Here is the part list:

    -0A3 6-speed transmission. B6 and B7 S4 trans codes are: FVD, HEP, HSM, HVM, and JMF. For the most part these transmissions are all the same, they all have the same final drive ratio of 3.889:1 and the same individual gear ratios. The B7 RS4 trans codes are: HLD, and JMH. These two are pretty much the same, but have a final drive ratio of 4.11:1 and even shorter 2nd and 3rd gears. Unless your build is going to rev up to 9,000 rpms and you'll get better use out of short gearing, I would definitely go with the S4 transmission. Gearing will be really similar to your A4 and they're easier to source too.
    -0A3 6-speed manual driveshaft. This is the only stock driveshaft that will fit, no other Audi driveshaft is this length. Part numbers are 8E0521101M and 8E0521101AA.
    -0A3 manual rear diff. If you're swapping from a 2.0 6-speed with trans code: GVE, you already have a 3.889:1 final drive so you can keep your rear diff. This will save you some time too in not having to do anything on the rear end. Also the 3.0 02Xs with the trans code GJV (not sure if we got these in the states) also have a 3.889 final drive and can retain the original rear diff. If you're swapping a 1.8 02X with trans code GJW, your final drive is 4.11 so if you do a short ratio RS4 trans, you can keep your rear diff, but if you swap an S4 trans (recommended), you will want an 0A3 rear diff. If you're swapping from a 3.2 02X with trans code GYY, your final drive is 4.375 and you will want an 0A3 rear diff no matter what. Also the non-US 2.0 02X cars with trans code: GMV have the same 4.375 final drive and gear ratios as the 3.2 and will need an 0A3 rear diff. Check the tag in your spare tire well, it will have your transmission code on there. I believe the 0A3 rear diff I used has a EXZ code.
    -0A3 6-speed front axles. If you're swapping from any 2.0 or 1.8 02X manual car you can keep your front axles. All 1.8, 2.0 and 4.2 cars use the same front axle flanges and the front axles are all interchangeable. The 3.0 and 3.2 manual cars have different front axle flanges, so if you're swapping a V6 Audi, you will want to either buy 1.8, 2.0, or 4.2 6-speed axles or swap your axle flanges from your original trans and be able to use your stock axles. Any automatic B6/B7 will need manual 0A3 front axles.
    -0A3 shift linkage. You will need everything. The two shift rods and crossover rod, and the actual shifter itself. The only things you can keep are your stock plastic shifter box housing, shift boot, and shift knob. I first tried to keep my 02X shifter and it still shifted, but my shift pattern was diagonal and really weird because the shifter is definitely different. I then swap in a stock 0A3 shifter and snapped the shifter in half a couple weeks later because the stock shifters have a pretty weak design, so now I have a JHM short-throw 0A3 shifter which I recommend.
    -0A3 manual transmission mount bracket. You only need the bracket that bolts to the transmission. You can keep your original rubber mount, and aluminum transmission crossmember.
    -Bellhousing bolts: My 3.2 02X bellhousing had the same thickness as the 0A3 where the bolts run through so I was able to reuse my stock bolts. I can't guarantee if it will be like this with all 02X transmissions. I know the 1.8 GJW has different thicknesses where the bolts run through so you will need a couple new bolts. What I would do is measure the thickness in the bellhousing where each bolt goes through and then go to Ace Hardware and buy bolts that will accommodate for the change in bellhousing thickness. The bigger bolts are M12x1.75 and the smaller bolts are M10x1.50.
    -Clutch fork and intermediate plastic clutch fork piece. If your transmission didn't come with this stuff you will need to get it. The throw out bearings are the same, but the 0A3 does use all different clutch fork parts.

    What you don't need:

    -You do not need a new bellhousing spacer. The input shaft protrusion is the same on every Audi manual transmission so that spacer is specifically for the clutch setup you use. If you're retaining your stock clutch style, you do not need a new spacer. I know some 4 cylinder engines don't come with the spacer at all. But say I were to install an RS4 flywheel and clutch on my 3.2, then I'd need to use the bellhousing spacer from an RS4, not my stock 3.2 one.
    -You do not need a new slave cylinder. There's two styles of slave cylinders, some early 04 cars and pre 04 come with the old style (B5 style) slave cylinder. While both slave cylinders look different, they are the same diameter and same length, so you can use your stock one.
    -You do not need rear axles. All B6 and B7 A4s and S4s use the same manual rear axles. The RS4 was the only one that has different rear axles because the rear spindles are different on the RS4s. The axle flanges are the same on all the rear diffs so don't even bother buying new rear axles if yours are fine.
    -You do not need S4 front hubs/wheel bearings. The hubs are the same on all B6 and B7 cars. Any axle will fit right into them so you can retain your stock hubs, wheel bearings, and spindles.
    -You do not need a new crank position sensor, or reverse light sensor if you're swapping from an 02X. All the wiring stays the same.

    Things you need to modify/hack:

    -The only thing I had to physically modify were my downpipes, and it's nothing major. They will no longer bolt to the 0A3 transmission like they did on the 02X and on my setup the mounts on the downpipes were in the way so I simply just cut them off. They really don't need to mount to the transmission, they're supported just fine... So I can't say how the downpipes on a 1.8, 2.0, or 3.0 will line up with the new trans, but you'll probably just have to cut off the bracket on them that bolts to the transmission.


    That pretty much covers everything you'll need to know about getting parts for this swap. Feel free to ask any questions!
    Last edited by b7_Andy; 01-28-2019 at 03:37 PM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Incase anyone wants to know the gear ratios for all American Audi B6 and B7 6-speed transmissions here they are:

    B6 1.8t GJW 02X:
    1st: 3.667
    2nd: 2.053
    3rd: 1.370
    4th: 1.032
    5th: 0.800
    6th: 0.658
    Reverse: 3.400
    Final Drive: 4.111

    B7 2.0t GVE 02X:
    1st: 3.667
    2nd: 2.053
    3rd: 1.370
    4th: 1.032
    5th: 0.800
    6th: 0.658
    Reverse: 3.400
    Final Drive: 3.889

    B7 3.2 GYY 02X:
    1st: 3.300
    2nd: 1.850
    3rd: 1.286
    4th: 0.939
    5th: 0.750
    6th: 0.641
    Reverse: 3.400
    Final Drive: 4.375

    B6/B7 S4 all 0A3:
    1st: 3.667
    2nd: 2.050
    3rd: 1.462
    4th: 1.133
    5th: 0.919
    6th: 0.778
    Reverse: 3.333
    Final Drive: 3.889

    B7 RS4 all 0A3:
    1st: 3.667
    2nd: 2.211
    3rd: 1.520
    4th: 1.133
    5th: 0.919
    6th: 0.778
    Reverse: 3.333
    Final Drive: 4.111
    Last edited by b7_Andy; 01-28-2019 at 02:55 PM.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Here are speeds in each gear at 7,000 rpms with stock tire sizes.

    B6 1.8t GJW 02X:
    1st: 35.1 mph
    2nd: 62.69 mph
    3rd: 93.94 mph
    4th: 124.71 mph
    5th: 160.87 mph
    6th: 195.59 mph
    Reverse: 37.85 mph
    Cruising 6th at 80 mph: 2863 rpm

    B7 2.0t GVE 02X:
    1st: 37.09 mph
    2nd: 66.25 mph
    3rd: 99.28 mph
    4th: 131.8 mph
    5th: 170.02 mph
    6th: 206.71 mph
    Reverse: 40 mph
    Cruising 6th at 80 mph: 2709 rpm

    B7 3.2 GYY 02X:
    1st: 36.64 mph
    2nd: 65.35 mph
    3rd: 94.02 mph
    4th: 128.76 mph
    5th: 161.21 mph
    6th: 188.62 mph
    Reverse: 35.56 mph
    Cruising 6th at 80 mph: 2969 rpm

    B6/B7 S4 all 0A3:
    1st: 37.09 mph
    2nd: 66.35 mph
    3rd: 93.03 mph
    4th: 120.05 mph
    5th: 148 mph
    6th: 174.82 mph
    Reverse: 40.81 mph
    Cruising 6th at 80 mph: 3203 rpm

    B7 RS4 all 0A3:
    1st: 35.09 mph
    2nd: 58.19 mph
    3rd: 84.65 mph
    4th: 113.56 mph
    5th: 140.01 mph
    6th: 165.38 mph
    Reverse: 38.6 mph
    Cruising 6th at 80 mph: 3386 rpm
    Last edited by b7_Andy; 01-28-2019 at 03:27 PM.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    What's the reasoning behind switching the transmission?

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rkesh88 View Post
    What's the reasoning behind switching the transmission?
    Good question. My 3rd gear synchro went out well over a year ago and I continued to drive on it and tracked the car multiple times. The last time I drove the car a couple months ago my 1st gear locked me out completely... no previous symptoms, just decided to not work at all one day. The big concern was that 1st won't go in at all with the engine running or off (3rd goes in easy with the engine turned off). I feel there could be more than just synchro damage and lead to a really pricy repair if I need a new input shaft, gears, shift collars, etc. Also I have a 2.7 RS6 turbo project motor in the garage that's a long ways out, but still a plan for sometime in the future. I saw a guy with a 2.7 B7 swap split his 4th gear in half on his 02X. I believe he ended up converting to an 0A3 drivetrain.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Well I bought the drivetrain. Picked up the transmission and front axles today. The rear diff and axles are all still connected to the subframe so I'll be going back this weekend to get the rest. The drive shaft looks trashed though, don't think I'll be able to use it.
    Also Jake gave me a lot of info regarding the parts required to do this swap... definitely more than I thought, so I will be updating the list shortly.

  7. #7
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Four Rings Jake@JHM's Avatar
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    Here is what we put together today:



    What is needed from B6-B7 S4:
    1 x 0A3 B6-B7 S4 trans (do not use RS4, final drive is lower and so are the gears inside)
    1 x FULL set of B6-B7 S4 shifter rods (3 total, main w cross rod and stabilizer rod) and shifter box with shifter. They are different by a lot.
    1 x B6-B7 S4 CV shafts (BOTH)
    1 x B6-B7 S4 Wheel bearing and hub assemblies (BOTH) - you can buy new from JHM or remove from spindle (4 bolts) from donor car - A4 has unique smaller splined hub and unique PN.
    1 x B6-B7 S4 MT center driveshaft (or lengthen A4 driveshaft by 1.5" on the front half of driveshaft.)
    1 x B6-B7 S4 trans mount support (claw) and 3 bolts that connects to the trans. (factory and aftermarket B6-B7 trans mounts attach like stock to this)NOTE: A4 one could work here, we just haven't tried it yet, the part numbers in ETKA are different since they are sold with the mount from Audi.
    1x B6-B7 S4 Rear Diff an Driveline parts (FOR 3.2L ONLY)

    What may be needed from B6-B7 S4, just haven't confirmed:
    1 x Full set of B6-B7 S4 trans bellhousing to motor bolts and starter bolts. This is only a slight chance since both cars share the same spacer but there could be a length issue in a few spots.

    What should you buy new:
    1 x Axle to hub bolt. Here on our website -> https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catal...ore-p-222.html
    What is reusable:
    -Rear diff and driveline parts if already quattro since they both have a 3.89 ratio. NOTE: 2007 and up A4 rear diffs are welded so if you want a LSD down the road go ahead and get the B6-B7 S4 rear diff. They are slightly beefier in the case as well.
    -trans crossmember and mount, NOT the support that attaches to trans (claw)
    -clutch, throwout bearing and flywheel
    -clutch hydraulics - good to get a new slave most the time while the car is apart -> https://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catal...-a4-p-693.html
    -trans to engine spacer (aluminum one and the thin sheet metal one on the block)
    -cv axle to trans bolts
    -rear center driveshaft to trans bolts
    Last edited by Jake@JHM; 03-02-2017 at 08:47 AM.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Thank you Jake for posting that. I did notice after looking at my spare 02X and the bolts I kept from it that they all seem to be different lengths. The part of the bell housing the bolts run through is different in length in certain areas of each transmission. So I assume that the swap will require a full set of S4 bell housing to engine bolts. I was also wondering if we can assume that the depth of the threads for the bell housing to engine bolts is the same on all motors. Guess I will have to be careful not to run the bolts too far in when sizing everything up. Also I don't think my 3.2 has a transmission spacer. And the 02X I pulled off a 1.8 did not have a trans spacer. Is the purpose of the trans spacer for clutch fitment? Probably wise to run the S4 spacer though whether my car has one or not. The clutch is practically identical so I'm sure it will contact the bell housing without the spacer. And I had a hard time trying to find all the trans to engine bolts for the S4, probably will have to get them from the dealer. If anyone knows of a diagram that shows which bolts go where on the S4 bell housing I would love to see that. I have not been able to find something like that yet.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Denio24's Avatar
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    As far as the spacer goes it may have something to do with the proper pilot hole engagement with the input shaft. On everything else, it seems to me like you know what you're doing so good luck with the project. Any idea why you didn't go with the RS4 trans for close ratio?
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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Denio24 View Post
    As far as the spacer goes it may have something to do with the proper pilot hole engagement with the input shaft. On everything else, it seems to me like you know what you're doing so good luck with the project. Any idea why you didn't go with the RS4 trans for close ratio?
    2 reasons. The RS4 drivetrains are quite rare and much more expensive. Also unless I'm revving out above 8k I think it would just be a pain having such short gearing. I'd be shifting into 3rd around 55mph.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings Denio24's Avatar
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    Have fun and thanks for the quick reply!
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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings pwest15's Avatar
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    Awesome and very informative thread so far! Hope I can be there to help with the install buddy!!!

    Sent from my potato

  13. #13
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Four Rings Jake@JHM's Avatar
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    Yea definitely get the S4 bell housing bolts.

    The spacer is used for a few purposes. The most common purpose is to space out the crank position sensor.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwest15 View Post
    Awesome and very informative thread so far! Hope I can be there to help with the install buddy!!!

    Sent from my potato
    Yes, come help with the install! I need someone with S4 expertise lol

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake@JHM View Post
    Yea definitely get the S4 bell housing bolts.

    The spacer is used for a few purposes. The most common purpose is to space out the crank position sensor.
    Okay, next time I'm at Audi I'm going to see if they can print out a diagram of which bolts go where on the bell housing... they've done stuff like that for me before and then it will be clear which bolts will be needed and where they go.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    You should consider the gearing ratios particularly if this is for a swapped car. I can tell you that I have an 02x on my 08 avant, but have the 0A3 on my 05.5 S4. The gearing on the 0A3 is much shorter. I have this in a 2.7 swapped car and it's noticeable, especially coming from an 01E trans in the B5. The naturally aspirated motors are better paired to run in the higher RPM range.

    Just for reference.

    A4 2.0T Quattro (B7) 3.667 2.053 1.423 1.065 0.853 0.730 (6-Spd)
    Final Drive: 3.89:1
    Gear Box Codes: GVD, GVE

    S4 (B5) 3.50 1.889 1.231 .967 0.806 0.684
    Final Drive: 4.11:1

    S4 (B6/B7) 3.667 2.05 1.462 1.133 0.919 0.778
    Final Drive: 3.89:1

  17. #17
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Four Rings Jake@JHM's Avatar
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    Big Turbo 2.0T guys will love the 0A3 ratio

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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake@JHM View Post
    Big Turbo 2.0T guys will love the 0A3 ratio
    Probably some truth to that, but I thought this was for a 2.7 swap that he was doing. OP if you are keeping the 3.2, I think the 0A3 would be a nice fit. I have a 2.7 swapped K04 car and I wish I had the 01E (I am sure personal preference plays a role here).

  19. #19
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Four Rings Jake@JHM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbain2 View Post
    Probably some truth to that, but I thought this was for a 2.7 swap that he was doing. OP if you are keeping the 3.2, I think the 0A3 would be a nice fit. I have a 2.7 swapped K04 car and I wish I had the 01E (I am sure personal preference plays a role here).
    The 0A3 is even better with the 2.7T! Specially for guys trying to rev high. We have taken the stock 0A3 to 9k RPM before without issue. We have the 0A3 going into our shop 10sec B5 right now.

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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake@JHM View Post
    The 0A3 is even better with the 2.7T! Specially for guys trying to rev high. We have taken the stock 0A3 to 9k RPM before without issue. We have the 0A3 going into our shop 10sec B5 right now.
    With k04 framed turbo's (RS4 or RS6), you probably don't see the benefits of routinely running it out to redline. Again, I think it depends on the driver preference and the application for the vehicle (track, street, daily, etc).

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    I have been researching this for 6 months now. Glad to see some one is also putting it together!

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake@JHM View Post
    The 0A3 is even better with the 2.7T! Specially for guys trying to rev high. We have taken the stock 0A3 to 9k RPM before without issue. We have the 0A3 going into our shop 10sec B5 right now.
    This exactly! I love my 3.2 and the gear ratios of my current tranny. The car gets a lot of track time and when I'm pushing it racing etc. I usually shift at 7200. The 02X hated that and I know the 0A3 can shift stock at 8k because it's the same trans in the RS4. Even if the gearing is slightly shorter, that will probably help with my NA car that only makes power above 5500 lol. Like Jake said, this will suit a big turbo 2.0 nicely, but a K03 2.0 that doesn't make power too high will probably not like shorter ratios. And I'll keep the 3.2 for another year or two, but when the 2.7 swap goes down the goal is to rev at least 8k. I have a few friends with B6 and B7 S4s and their gearing seems only slightly shorter than mine. My 2nd gets up to about 62, 3rd 92, and 4th 122 (shifting at 7k). Cruising in 6th at 80mph is about 3,000 rpms. How does that compare to B6 and B7 S4s? Probably pretty close right?

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    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by b7_Andy View Post
    This exactly! I love my 3.2 and the gear ratios of my current tranny. The car gets a lot of track time and when I'm pushing it racing etc. I usually shift at 7200. The 02X hated that and I know the 0A3 can shift stock at 8k because it's the same trans in the RS4. Even if the gearing is slightly shorter, that will probably help with my NA car that only makes power above 5500 lol. Like Jake said, this will suit a big turbo 2.0 nicely, but a K03 2.0 that doesn't make power too high will probably not like shorter ratios. And I'll keep the 3.2 for another year or two, but when the 2.7 swap goes down the goal is to rev at least 8k. I have a few friends with B6 and B7 S4s and their gearing seems only slightly shorter than mine. My 2nd gets up to about 62, 3rd 92, and 4th 122 (shifting at 7k). Cruising in 6th at 80mph is about 3,000 rpms. How does that compare to B6 and B7 S4s? Probably pretty close right?
    Cruising at 80 with the 02X in 5th I am at 3150 RPM's. I rarely use 6th.

    Cruising in 5th with the 0A3 is around 3700 if I recall. Will confirm next time I take it out.


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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbain2 View Post
    Cruising at 80 with the 02X in 5th I am at 3150 RPM's. I rarely use 6th.

    Cruising in 5th with the 0A3 is around 3700 if I recall. Will confirm next time I take it out.


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    Dang the 2.0 has long gears. I don't really cruise in 5th, but I'd guess it's somewhere between your transmissions. Next time you take your 0A3 car out I'd appreciate if you could take note of your rpms in 6th going 80mph... and maybe a top of 2nd and 3rd mph if you're feeling sendy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by b7_Andy View Post
    Dang the 2.0 has long gears. I don't really cruise in 5th, but I'd guess it's somewhere between your transmissions. Next time you take your 0A3 car out I'd appreciate if you could take note of your rpms in 6th going 80mph... and maybe a top of 2nd and 3rd mph if you're feeling sendy.
    Will do.


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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    So I went back and got the rest of the drivetrain... while I was taking it apart the guy went through the car and was like hey do you need these?
    Had all the shift linkage and rods and the transmission mount, so there's a few more parts I can knock off the list! Brought everything back to the garage and lined it up with the 2.7 motor just for fun.
    The good news is it seems to mate well with a 2.7, the bad news is that while trying to mate it I forgot my 2.7 has some crankshaft flange for an automatic flywheel that should have been removed and I couldn't connect it all the way... I let go and dropped the trans on the ground and part of the engine chipped this piece off the inside of the bell housing.
    Looks like it's just there to block stuff from falling in that inspection hole. I remember there being a company that makes plugs for that hole so I'll probably get one just to make sure nothing falls in it now, unless the purpose of that hole is to release heat, then I'll just leave it. Also the driveshaft is going in the trash can. I don't even know what happened to the center bearing, one of the boots is leaking axle grease, and while trying to free it from the rear diff, the joint blew up and I can't get it back together lol. The flange is still fused to the rear diff so I have no idea how I'm going to separate it. Sooo ya I think that's the end of the driveshaft, going to have to order a new one.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Small update... After hammering my rear driveshaft flange for hours like a blithering idiot, I decided to be a man and get an impact hammer. First jack-hammer blow separated the flange lol. So the driveshaft is finally free, I pulled the CV joint apart and it looks good, just needs a boot. So I think I might end up rebuilding my driveshaft with a JHM center bearing and CV boot. Will also be going to Audi this weekend to try and piece together a little trans to engine bolt diagram.

    Also found this interesting... the last owner had used red permatex or some similar sealant on the driveshaft flange gasket. Like I've seen some pretty fused driveshaft flanges, but this one was something else... now I found out why it was so stuck lol. Also the one bolt that stripped and I ended up cutting the head off was covered in red loctite. It was a pain in the ass to thread the stud of the bolt out. Just a reminder to never ever use red loctite or red anything anywhere on a driveshaft peoples!

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    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Two things, one, red loctite says it's mean to be removed with heat, did you try heating them?

    Second, throw a jhm diff in that b$&ch!


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    Veteran Member Four Rings derrek's Avatar
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    Just a heads up the rear half shafts are the same between all b6/7 cars excluding the RS4


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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pezgoon View Post
    Two things, one, red loctite says it's mean to be removed with heat, did you try heating them?

    Second, throw a jhm diff in that b$&ch!


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    I torched it, didn't do much. Air hammer is my favorite tool now, literally took one blow haha... and JHM diff is on the list, I had one in my 02X.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by derrek View Post
    Just a heads up the rear half shafts are the same between all b6/7 cars excluding the RS4


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    I've heard some people tell me that too. But I think it was Jake that said the 0A3 driveshaft is 1 1/2" shorter or something like that.

    *edit
    I misread that... It seems you are correct about the rear half shafts. I might just use mine in that case to save $100 from having to reboot the new axles. I'll just keep them as spares, thanks for pointing that out!
    Last edited by b7_Andy; 03-08-2017 at 05:37 PM.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    B7 A4 02X -> 0A3 swap

    Quote Originally Posted by b7_Andy View Post
    I torched it, didn't do much. Air hammer is my favorite tool now, literally took one blow haha... and JHM diff is on the list, I had one in my 02X.
    Ah, well that is surprising then that the locative survived it, the person must've used way too much, but I agree, don't red loctite anything haha

    Although the green is the worse stuff haha, that shts meant to attach a threadless rod in a threadless circle, so if you wanna really mess up someone's day put some of that on their nuts and bolts :p


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    Veteran Member Four Rings derrek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by b7_Andy View Post
    I've heard some people tell me that too. But I think it was Jake that said the 0A3 driveshaft is 1 1/2" shorter or something like that.

    *edit
    I misread that... It seems you are correct about the rear half shafts. I might just use mine in that case to save $100 from having to reboot the new axles. I'll just keep them as spares, thanks for pointing that out!
    Nope all the same part number I have one in my car now.


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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pezgoon View Post
    Ah, well that is surprising then that the locative survived it, the person must've used way too much, but I agree, don't red loctite anything haha

    Although the green is the worse stuff haha, that shts meant to attach a threadless rod in a threadless circle, so if you wanna really mess up someone's day put some of that on their nuts and bolts :p


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    There's green loctite? Damn maybe I'll try some out on some of my neighbor's lug nuts that I don't like

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Also is there a difference between the front left and right axles? I notice the part numbers are different, but visually they are identical. The guy I got them from just had them laying around so I have no clue which is which. And Jake mentioned in his parts list that I'll need S4 wheel bearings and hubs. I looked up the part numbers for both and they are the same for the A4 and S4. I think I will pull off a front axle one day and test fit the S4 axle in the hub and see if it fits.

  36. #36
    Veteran Member Four Rings derrek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by b7_Andy View Post
    Also is there a difference between the front left and right axles? I notice the part numbers are different, but visually they are identical. The guy I got them from just had them laying around so I have no clue which is which. And Jake mentioned in his parts list that I'll need S4 wheel bearings and hubs. I looked up the part numbers for both and they are the same for the A4 and S4. I think I will pull off a front axle one day and test fit the S4 axle in the hub and see if it fits.
    Fronts are different. You need to check the splines on the hub to see if they work.


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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by derrek View Post
    Fronts are different. You need to check the splines on the hub to see if they work.


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    Front hubs are different? Damn I'll have to test fit them and see if they work.

  38. #38
    Veteran Member Four Rings derrek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by b7_Andy View Post
    Front hubs are different? Damn I'll have to test fit them and see if they work.
    Front half shafts are different. I'm not sure about the hubs.


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    Front hubs are needed from the S4

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  40. #40
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    3rd gear 7k rpm- 95mph
    5th gear cruising at 80- 3400 rpm
    6th gear at 80- 2950 rpm

    Hope this helps.


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