M/T trans oil

[Koopsdeville]

Just wondering if anyone knows what kind of manual trans oil I can use as an alternative to buying it from the dealer? I'm pretty sure it's 75w90 and it takes 3.2 litres. Dealer wants $40 a litre which I thought was kinda excessive. I had a shop I use change the oil when I did my clutch and shifting is kinda rough until it's warm.

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[q_dubz]

just grab some Motul or Royal Purple
hell I need to do mine... ugh.

[JimmyBones]

I use the Motul GL4/GL5 75W-90 in both my manual transmission and rear differential. It is great fluid and decently priced.

Is third gear difficult because these cars tend to wear out the third gear synchro?

[roboto_1337]

I got some motul gear 300 and find it makes for smoother shifting once the car is up to temperature.

[Koopsdeville]

I'm using motul now and honestly I'm not happy with it. Actually when it's cold I gotta shift into 2nd or 3rd to get into first.

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[Koopsdeville]

I heard motul 300 is good but how is it in cold temps?

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[SprintBlueWorld]

If your not going with OEM go with Motul its the next best thing. Has almost the same performance specs but cheaper. There's a writeup on the gear oils round here someplace.

Here it is it's stickied:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...n-Fluid-Basics

[neilpaku]

Good thread as I'm about to replace the synchros in my gearbox, and third is definitely the worst, but I think I'm catching it before the sliding collar and gear engagement get flogged out

[Kambesama]

Good thread as I'm about to replace the synchros in my gearbox, and third is definitely the worst, but I think I'm catching it before the sliding collar and gear engagement get flogged out

Speaking of going and replacing stuff in the transmission. Does anyone have that gear reduction from JHM for 6th gear? Would like to hear an outside review of it from anyone who's had it installed.

[Koopsdeville]

That was an amazing write up. Thx SprintBlueWorld

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[JimmyBones]

Speaking of going and replacing stuff in the transmission. Does anyone have that gear reduction from JHM for 6th gear? Would like to hear an outside review of it from anyone who's had it installed.

I had 0.53 sixth gear set until I realized that I went fast enough to need the stock sixth gear set. Could easily get 25-26 mpg and if I really drove slowly then I could get close to 30. Can't really pass people that easily but that is not the goal anyways. If anyone wants it then I will sell it for $450.

[Koopsdeville]

Thought I'd wake this thread up again. So I changed my trans oil again and I went with liqui moly 75-90. I still have this issue with shifting into mainly first gear when cold. I have to shift into 2nd or 3rd before going into 1st. Once the car is warm and I mean driving for roughly 20 mins then I can go into first but still not as smooth as it was before replacing my clutch. The shop that replaced my clutch didn't machine my fly wheel. There said it was clean and didn't need machining or replacing. Another shop told me that's the reason for it being hard to shift when cold. My question is, does this make sense? I'm pretty irritated that I've got a new clutch cause my throw out bearing was messed and in turn got stuck with another issue that's not really making driving very enjoyable. It's an s4, it should b enjoyable. I'm also worried that I may b doing damage and also worried that it's gonna b even harder to shift in the frigid winters we get here. The weather has been in the double digits and still when cold it's hard. I'm sure it can only get harder when it's in the minute double digits. Any suggestions, experiences, advice? Thx in advance

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[JimmyBones]

Just to rule out the clutch do this. When you get home from work, leave the transmission in neutral, set the parking brake, and let it sit overnight. Ideally you will do this when it will be cold the following morning. Before starting the engine push the clutch pedal down and try shifting in and out of first gear. Then try second and third gear. Start the engine and repeat. If it is easier to shift into gears with the engine off then that is bad.

You have to think of the manual transmission as two parts. The first part is the clutch inside the bell housing. The second part is the internal transmission parts like the gears, synchros, shift forks, etc.

[Koopsdeville]

I will try what ur suggesting in the morning. Just not sure what I'm trying to accomplish here. The clutch and fork were replaced . Obv the clutch came as a kit but the fork was replaced cause the throwout chewed it up before. So if I can shift easily with it off, what could that mean?

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[QIKRNU]

Probably that the clutch is not disengaging completely.

[Koopsdeville]

Which would mean the fly wheel is the culprit, right?

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[QIKRNU]

Not necessarily. Could be the clutch hydraulics.

[Koopsdeville]

I'm gonna say no about hydraulics for the reason that on a beat up clutch, first gear was butter smooth. This didn't happen until the clutch was replaced.

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[QIKRNU]

Was the slave cylinder replaced?

[Koopsdeville]

Wow good question.... I'm pretty sure I replaced it but I've replaced so much that I just can't remember...I think it was. What u didn't replace was the matter cylinder but I'm pretty sure if have other issues if that had gone bad

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[QIKRNU]

The stock ones are plastic and break in a heartbeat.

[Koopsdeville]

Yea I'm roughly 90℅ sure I replaced it. Still my issue is only when it's cold. Mechanic said the fly wheel engagement has a small tolerance and any uneven surfaces would make it not engage properly. He said when it's warm, it'll expand a bit thus y it engages when it's warm. The shop that replaced my clutch is a small shop just getting by and I don't wanna put them in a position in removing my trans all over again if I'm not sure. They didn't charge me much in regards to what a clutch job on these cars go for. Nonetheless I didn't want other issues.

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[QIKRNU]

Good luck figuring it out.

[JimmyBones]

I will try what ur suggesting in the morning. Just not sure what I'm trying to accomplish here. The clutch and fork were replaced . Obv the clutch came as a kit but the fork was replaced cause the throwout chewed it up before. So if I can shift easily with it off, what could that mean?

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Probably that the clutch is not disengaging completely.

What QIKRNU said.

Which would mean the fly wheel is the culprit, right?

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No the flywheel would not be the culprit of the clutch not releasing. If the clutch hydraulics are okay then the next step is to remove the transmission and inspect the shift fork, throw-out bearing, and the clutch components. I have seen where the pressure plate bolts come loose because they didn't use locktite on the threads.

[Koopsdeville]

More than likely gonna have these guys open her back up and have a look. I spoke with Chris and Mike at twins auto works, which by the way r some stand up guys and I highly recommend, and they seem to think that the springs on the pressure plate weren't pushed back to allow for self adjustment. I'll b taking it to them tomorrow for them to test drive it. Thx for ur input guys. I'll b in touch

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[Koopsdeville]

Oh for the record I made it seem that twins auto did the clutch but they didn't. They just offered to figure the issue out for me

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[Koopsdeville]

OK so I did what u asked of me. Before starting the car, I shifted into all gears and yes they go easier then when the car is running cold. Atleast 1st gear that is cause I can't get it into first when it's running cold but I got it in when it was off. What does this mean exactly?

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[neilpaku]

Based on your findings, it sounds like your clutch is dragging. Could be due to the pilot bearing failing (although they using seize after warming up, not the other way round), detritus on the clutch plate / pressure plate / flywheel facings (oil, dust build-up, general crap), incomplete disengagement - I'd go with this last one because it's the one that would ease as the clutch heated up and loses (a little) clamping force. Not sure how easy it is to check disengagement visually, but the other two definitely require removing the transmission so you can take a look. For an "out-there" possibility, the clutch driven plate is directional so if it was possible to install it the wrong way round, that could be a contender too. Does it vibrate at all? If so, then I'd also suspect poor pressure plate fitment. Last item I can think of is if the adjuster is mis-set. New pressure plate should be at the beginning of the adjustment but perhaps yours was not?

[Koopsdeville]

I'm gonna agree with u on disengagement. I asked the mechanic who installed it yesterday if he had adjusted it back to the beginning and he said yes. I won't call him a liar but mistakes do happen. It's the only thing that makes sense. I plan on going to twins auto today and have them peek around and test drive. Thank u for ur input and I will take it all under advisement with them when I see them. Really the only thing to do is open it back up and retrace their steps.

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