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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings Mech_Mike412's Avatar
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    Fuel Level Indicator Issue and Sender Removal

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    So I'm having a problem with my fuel level indications on my S-Line. My fuel gauge keeps hovering around the full mark or jumping around everywhere in between full and 3/4 tank. The range indicator on the info screen is doing the same thing, directly related to the level indicator. I'm pretty sure it's the sending unit under the rear seat (if it's something else, I'd appreciate any input).
    I already pulled the rear seat out to try and just inspect the sending unit, but I can't get the retaining ring off. I also prefer to not spend $65 on the special tool for the retaining ring, nor the $200 for an OEM sending unit. Any help will be much appreciated


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  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
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    When I replaced my pump/sending unit I just used a flat blade screwdriver and pounded it with a rubber mallet to remove the retaining ring. What have you tried using for removal?

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings Mech_Mike412's Avatar
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    I used a flat screwdriver but I didn't use any mallets or hammers. The sucker didn't even budge.

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  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Your picture looks like there is a bit of rust on the ring so it is probably on there pretty good. I'd say take the screwdriver and give it a few good hits with a hammer/mallet to remove the ring counter clockwise and it should come off.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings Mech_Mike412's Avatar
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    The only reason I didn't do that was because I didn't want to break something haha

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    K&N Filter - ECS Turbo Inlet Hose - ECS Vent Boost Gauge - GFB Diverter Valve - Morimoto 3000K HID Fogs - JHM Stage 1 93oct - CTS Charge Pipes - Custom Catback, CTS Mufflers

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    Spray it with cleaner big time. Let it sit so wd-40 penetrates the rust. It will come off. When i put mine back in I used anti sieze on the mating surfaces and last week I hit it about 3-5x with moderate pressure turned out without a problem.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings adam044's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by djhemmen View Post
    When I replaced my pump/sending unit I just used a flat blade screwdriver and pounded it with a rubber mallet to remove the retaining ring. What have you tried using for removal?
    This what I did when I replaced it in my B5 so I'd probably do the same with the B7.

    Definitely sounds like the sender until is bad. I'd honestly just get a new OEM one because it's probably not something you want to replace again. Or just live with it. I delt with mine for a little.

    I know with the B5's you could try and clean the contacts on the sender, I'm not sure about the B7s. But I had cleaned my contacts and that only last about a week. Then I had to pull it again.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Two Rings Mech_Mike412's Avatar
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    I'm gonna inspect it first to see if I can repair it, more than likely I'll have to buy a new unit though.

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    2008 Audi A4 Quattro S-Line 6MT
    K&N Filter - ECS Turbo Inlet Hose - ECS Vent Boost Gauge - GFB Diverter Valve - Morimoto 3000K HID Fogs - JHM Stage 1 93oct - CTS Charge Pipes - Custom Catback, CTS Mufflers

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings klrider44's Avatar
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    I'm having a similar problem with mine. My low fuel light is always on and my gauge reads just below half all the time. What is responsible for this issue is it a sensor on the lpfp or is there a separate sensor?


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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Klrider, I had the same issue, the instrument cluster was coded wrong - coded for Quattro and mine is fwd. changed the code and fixed it instantly.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings klrider44's Avatar
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    Hmmm I have never messed with my cluster before though...


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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    its the sender. as stated find a good size flat blade screwdriver and hit the ring counter clockwise with a hammer on the screwdriver. all of ten seconds. Its quite robust. Replace the seal when you put it back or it might leak gas and vapors.

    On mine the pickup line that is clicked into the bottom of the sender had come off and was interfering with the sender.
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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings klrider44's Avatar
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    When you say sender, which one are you referring to? Because aren't there 2. This is where I get lost. Isn't there one on the pump and a separate fuel level sensor on the other side? I haven't had the chance remove anything from my car yet but I don't understand what is responsible for the reading on the cluster? For instance in the following post the part replaced is obviously not the pump.
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...er-Replacement


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  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings Mech_Mike412's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by klrider44 View Post
    When you say sender, which one are you referring to? Because aren't there 2. This is where I get lost. Isn't there one on the pump and a separate fuel level sensor on the other side? I haven't had the chance remove anything from my car yet but I don't understand what is responsible for the reading on the cluster? For instance in the following post the part replaced is obviously not the pump.
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...er-Replacement


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app
    Well I have a Quattro, not sure how much different it is from the FWD model. A friend of mine told me to unplug one of the sensors and drive around and observe the changes, and do it for both sides

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    2008 Audi A4 Quattro S-Line 6MT
    K&N Filter - ECS Turbo Inlet Hose - ECS Vent Boost Gauge - GFB Diverter Valve - Morimoto 3000K HID Fogs - JHM Stage 1 93oct - CTS Charge Pipes - Custom Catback, CTS Mufflers

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings adam044's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by klrider44 View Post
    Hmmm I have never messed with my cluster before though...


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    I assume it's probably something you do via VAG COM

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Yes, you go into vagcom, instrument cluster, coding and make sure the code is correct for your vehicle. Mine had somehow changed and I fixed it and the fuel gauge immediately moved to the correct position. This was after replacing the LPFP and module. This didn't fix it, but the coding did. The symptoms were exactly the same as klridder44's though.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings klrider44's Avatar
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    That is strange what was the code that you changed. I have access to vagcom, but I'm not extremely familiar with the program.


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  18. #18
    Senior Member Three Rings wriscolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    Yes, you go into vagcom, instrument cluster, coding and make sure the code is correct for your vehicle. Mine had somehow changed and I fixed it and the fuel gauge immediately moved to the correct position. This was after replacing the LPFP and module. This didn't fix it, but the coding did. The symptoms were exactly the same as klridder44's though.
    Quote Originally Posted by klrider44 View Post
    That is strange what was the code that you changed. I have access to vagcom, but I'm not extremely familiar with the program.


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    Do you guys have starting issues? when i fill up the tank, it is always below the line. Never really "full". My previous cars always went over. I just thought the under F line was a Audi thing.
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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Instrument cluster, coding, follow the help bubble and re-code. Write down what it originally was first ;) so you can go back if needed.

    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  20. #20
    Senior Member Two Rings Mech_Mike412's Avatar
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    So I'm back at this again today. What way method could I use to check each sender unit without removing?

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    2008 Audi A4 Quattro S-Line 6MT
    K&N Filter - ECS Turbo Inlet Hose - ECS Vent Boost Gauge - GFB Diverter Valve - Morimoto 3000K HID Fogs - JHM Stage 1 93oct - CTS Charge Pipes - Custom Catback, CTS Mufflers

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