I had few weeks ago about some fuel indications issues on my ride and did not get much feedback about what could be the root cause.
So I ordered the Left spare sensor (there is 2 on the Quattro) and decided to tackle the issue.
Remove the rear bench
Remove the 3 screws off the left inspection door
Disconnect cable.
Using a large flat screwdriver, unlock the ring
And voila..
The sender is broken in 2 pieces and sits on the tank bottom.
The sender is spring loaded and with probably age, cooked the plastic
Tank topped off, needle was staying in the half full position (but I guess she could have been anywhere). I did tested the cluster following the VAG Com procedure and everuthing was fine. This is why, I started to suspect the sender.
just a quick question fly. when i first bought my 05.5 used i would will it up and the DTE would be 400 miles but lately when i fill up it only says 325. any thoughts?
2005.5 A4 2.0T Quattro M/T Brilliant Black
Debadged/Blacked Out Chrome/15% Window Tint
just a quick question fly. when i first bought my 05.5 used i would will it up and the DTE would be 400 miles but lately when i fill up it only says 325. any thoughts?
Hi Mark,
Do you have a Quattro?
I am asking because as previously explained, there is 2 probes. From the electrical prints, it's seems that the left one is connected to the gauge and the right one, much smaller, is connected to the computer (your case).
I would get your hand on a Wag Com cable and follow this procedure:
Turn the car ignition on, but do not start it. Using the VAG-COM, go into the Instrument Cluster control module (-17-) and select OUTPUT TESTS (-03-).
Click on the START/NEXT button to initiate a sequence of tests. The first of these tests the sweep and calibration of the analog gauges. The needles for all four gauges (tach, speedo, coolant temp, fuel level) will drop to 0, sweep slowly all the way to their maximum, and then drop down to a calibration position. These positions are:
The Bentley CD indicates that if any of these settings in incorrect, then there is an unrepairable error in the instrument cluster and it should be replaced. All of mine are good, except for the fuel level, which displays just under 1/2 tank. This is obviously part of the reason for my incorrect fuel reading, but I'm not going to pay for another cluster just to fix it. Instead, you can use the VAG-COM to fudge the displayed level.
3. Click the START/NEXT button to cycle through all of the remaining output tests. These tests will check the various warning lights, chimes and LCD displays in the cluster.
4. Keep clicking the START/NEXT button until END comes up, click it once more and then click EXIT to go back to the main menu for the Instrument Cluster control module.
STEP 2 - ADJUSTING THE DISPLAYED FUEL LEVEL
These steps are based on those given in the Bentley CD and are intended to be used after the fuel level sender has been replaced. The proper way to calibrate the fuel gauge to the new sender is to drain the fuel tank, add 7 liters (1.85 gal) of gas, which is the exact amount in the "reserve" tank, and then adjust the fuel gauge needle so that it coincides with the red "reserve" line on the fuel gauge. I wasn't about to go through this, so I filled up my tank and adjusted the needle so that it read full (or as close as I could get it). The VAG-COM allows you to adjust the position of the needle an amount equal to 2 liters of fuel in either direction (+/-) of it's normal factory setting. To do this, do the following:
1. Select ADAPTATION (-10-) on the main screen of the Instrument Cluster control module.
2. In the CHANNEL box, enter 30 and then click on READ. This will display the stored value for the fuel gauge calibration and normally should be 128. You may enter a value from 120 to 136. Each number corresponds to a 1 ohm adjustment of the fuel level sender output and corresponds to 1/4 of a liter. You can use the UP and DOWN buttons to adjust the number while you watch the gauge needle move. If you're doing it the proper way, then adjust the needle until it lines up perfectly with the red mark on the gauge. If you're doing it a different way, like I did, then adjust the needle until it sits where you want it to.
3. Click on SAVE. The new setting is now being used.
That's about it. If you mess something up and want to go back to the original setting, it's 128.
If all the tests/reading are OK, I would replace the right probe
thanks for the help man you're the bomb. i'll be purchasing a vad com cable soon but i gotta get my hands on a friends windows computer. i'll keep you updated
2005.5 A4 2.0T Quattro M/T Brilliant Black
Debadged/Blacked Out Chrome/15% Window Tint
thanks for the help man you're the bomb. i'll be purchasing a vad com cable soon but i gotta get my hands on a friends windows computer. i'll keep you updated
No problem, just let me know if I can help with anything else
No need for a windows computer, VAG-COM works just fine on a Mac running windows as well. I use it via Windows XP Pro 64 bit on a macbook with VMware Fusion.
just a quick question fly. when i first bought my 05.5 used i would will it up and the DTE would be 400 miles but lately when i fill up it only says 325. any thoughts?
Mark, unless you do have a legitimate equipment problem this is just due to your trip computer. When it computes the distance to empty, it is using the recent data that it has for Average MPG. However, it is unaffected when you reset the AVG MPG metric, so it is pulling an unalterable sample of your most recent driving. (sorry I don't know how long or mileage for the sample.)
I experience the same symptom as you; normally after a fill-up my DTE is around 450 but when I have really been lightfooting it I've seen it as high as 585.
Hope this helps.
-Chris
2001 A4 Avant - Apr '11 to Present 2008 A4 Sedan - In the graveyard
I just got done with my spring maintenance, which includes: sparks, coils, air/cabin/fuel filters, and fluid changes. All went smoothly except the fuel filter. One of the old filters nipples broke off inside of the hose and it was a huge PITA to get out. I tried not to tug to hard on the hose, but basically, I had to pull the hose in one direction as I applied force on a pliers at an angle that I jammed in there for friction. Not fun at all, but eventually it popped out.
I filled up and began to pay more attention to my fuel gauge as I was curious on the impact the spring maintenance would have on my MPGs. And thats when I noticed a problem. The gauge is moving around all crazy like. Its not fast, its a slow move and it also involves the computer (the one that says how many miles are left). I'll move 1/4-1/8 tank back and forth. The computer says I have 200 miles left, then a quarter mile later says I have 250 miles left, then 180 at the stop sign. I drove 300 miles and filled up as to not die on the highway. The gauge went to full but is still doing this.
I checked with my VCDS and found no problems with sensors. I really hope I didn't do anything when I was messing around with that fuel filter. Please advise me if you know anything regarding this. My assumption is a bad sender. Maybe mine didn't break all the way like Phils, but perhaps cracked and moving back and forth. I followed the guide until I got to the ring.
Phil apparently has the power of Clark Kent. My ring must be held in with 300lb/ft of pressure. I actually bent on my Craftsman drivers trying to free it. Looking in my Bentley, the job calls for a T10202 tool to be used. Its basically a cookie cutter tool that has a 3/8 drive socket. This allows you to apply force on all sides of the ring instead of just one. Very lame, but I needed it.
Looking online, all I found OEM came to about $80. Super lame. I stumbled across this World Impex site with an aftermarket tool that looks exactly the same for $25 bucks. Bought. Its on its way and I'll post here how it works. I really hope my problem is the fuel sender and I'm not doing all this for nothing.
If you wouldn't mind Phil, I'd also like a part number. I'm the same as above, in the exception of sedan. 2006MY
I was having a heck of a time trying to track this part # down. Genuine has the part number and a seemly correct price (~$115), but the picture is completely different. Thanks!
For the Quattro Guys, there is 2 sensors: as you can see on the pictures, 1 sensor on the passenger side, 1 sensor on the driver side.
PM me with the PN that you are looking for
Is one of the sensors also connected with the transfer pump? My gauge level is still messes up but when I am low on fuel and go wot and turn and sometimes on a straight I get a fuel cut but it is fine with a full tank. Assuming something is not right with the transfer pump.
Is one of the sensors also connected with the transfer pump? My gauge level is still messes up but when I am low on fuel and go wot and turn and sometimes on a straight I get a fuel cut but it is fine with a full tank. Assuming something is not right with the transfer pump.
Yes it does. The jet pump attaches to the bottom of the fuel sender on the drivers side the runs over the saddle then into the top of the main pump on the passenger side...
EDIT: All the pump does is bring fuel from the driver side of the saddle to the pump, it shouldn't affect your gauge unless the line is hitting the bobber lever...
vizi
Last edited by viziers; 09-18-2011 at 06:17 AM.
05.5 B7 A4 6sp AWD Quartz Gray 173,000mi I like to drive!
Car:Custom JRP Mani & DP, GT3076, FWD to AWD conversion, IE 144/20,Wossner Pistons 83.5mm 9.2:1Cr, CM FX400, Ported Head Ferrea valves, Eurojet VC, EJ S3 Dv Flange, Custom STASIS Exhaust, Precision 600hp FMIC, RS4 injectors, Tial 38mm, APR HPFP, 034 SD mounts, Apikol Rear Diff, RS4 Sway, APR Snub Mount, DO 4 port w/m direct injection, HPFPUpgrade 142bar fuel relief valve
Absolute Automotive Tuned to 373+awhp (Corrected)
Hi Guys,
I had few weeks ago about some fuel indications issues on my ride and did not get much feedback about what could be the root cause.
So I ordered the Left spare sensor (there is 2 on the Quattro) and decided to tackle the issue.
Hey, what model do you have. I have the C5 A6 Quattro and when I removed my bench - different issue - I also have the two covers as in your photo, but I only have an electronic cable hooking up into the passenger side cover. Is there still a sensor in the driver side or do they just make one bench to simplify.
UPDATE: I just decided to remove the driver-side cover and I found that all the electronics on that side are attached and wired in underneath the seat metal.
I've been having some issues as described, but from a recent test, I think it may be more related to a broken valve in the engine than the sender, but it is something I'm still testing.
Last edited by Janus; 12-03-2011 at 02:53 PM.
Reason: Solved the issue
Yes it does. The jet pump attaches to the bottom of the fuel sender on the drivers side the runs over the saddle then into the top of the main pump on the passenger side...
EDIT: All the pump does is bring fuel from the driver side of the saddle to the pump, it shouldn't affect your gauge unless the line is hitting the bobber lever...
vizi
Anyone know the pn for the jet pump or is it the in tank pump?
I was looking for a starting point and think that this DIY might be it. It looks like I need to replace the low pressure fuel pump. What side is it in? Is it difficult to replace? Any gotchas?
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Originally Posted by Sharkfin
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