Poor throttle response.

[CDuBDolla]

I've searched and read through the forums but most people are chalking this up to either being DBW or Turbo Lag.

My Problem: I took my car out for some fun last night and noticed that whenever I went WOT the car would almost seem to bog for a couple seconds before seeming to downshift and go. It didn't matter if I was at a 60 roll or from a dead stop the car would wait for a couple seconds and then respond to the throttle.

My Question: what can I do to reduce the throttle response?? I've searched and people say that an intake will reduce throttle response but most of my search results yield in people saying to upgrade the IC piping and all of these other fixes for turbo lag which is not what I'm referring to. I've read possibly doing a TBA would solve the issue as the car learns your driving habits but you have to do so ever couple weeks. That seems monotonous to me and I feel like the car should have some more pep when I go WOT.

I'm driving a B8 A4 with a 6 speed tiptronic and it doesn't seem to matter if I'm in sport or drive it still has the same laggy throttle response. Any help or suggestions would be awesome.

[treginginco]

First.... run a can of BG44K thru it --- clean things up.

You may also need a carbon buildup service.

This may also be due to increased temps with it being late spring. When it's hot.... my allroad gets a little laggy compared to the cooler months.

[blbroo]

Post #57

pedal responce

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...9&share_type=t

[CDuBDolla]

Post #57

pedal responce

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...9&share_type=t

Did you read any of those "solutions"?? A flux capacitor? Seriously? All of the more serious responses include what I mentioned above such as IC piping and what not.
Not exactly the most helpful of threads IMO

[CDuBDolla]

First.... run a can of BG44K thru it --- clean things up.

You may also need a carbon buildup service.

This may also be due to increased temps with it being late spring. When it's hot.... my allroad gets a little laggy compared to the cooler months.

I did read that I just wasn't sure if there was an adjustment I could make, possible ecu oriented, that I could do to fix the issue. Most of what I've read says to do a TBA but I'm still unclear on if that's real or placebo.

[van462]

www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/549484-DIY-Diagnose-and-Repair-of-Loose-Wastegate-Flapper-(P0299)
The first part of this write up explains how to check if your turbo wastegate is sealing properly. It takes a fairly significant boost loss until the fault code triggers. Best to this on a cold motor as you will be reaching thru the exhaust manifold. May not be your problem, but its so easy to check why not.

[CDuBDolla]

www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/549484-DIY-Diagnose-and-Repair-of-Loose-Wastegate-Flapper-(P0299)
The first part of this write up explains how to check if your turbo wastegate is sealing properly. It takes a fairly significant boost loss until the fault code triggers. Best to this on a cold motor as you will be reaching thru the exhaust manifold. May not be your problem, but its so easy to check why not.

Forgive me if this seems like a newb question but, would that only help with the turbo or turbo lag? Because I have no issues getting into boost its just a 1-2 second lag whenever I punch the throttle. I understand it's a DBW car but it shouldn't lag that bad. Or maybe it's normal and I just have to get used to it. I don't think anything is wrong with my vehicle it seems like this is a normal occurrence.

[blbroo]

Did you read any of those "solutions"?? A flux capacitor? Seriously? All of the more serious responses include what I mentioned above such as IC piping and what not.
Not exactly the most helpful of threads IMO

Did YOU read my post? I said look at post 57 in that thread. Of course I read the ridiculous posts in that glorious masterpiece. Post 57 is a serious answer.


Geez, no one even asked you to draw a duck.

[CDuBDolla]

Did YOU read my post? I said look at post 57 in that thread. Of course I read the ridiculous posts in that glorious masterpiece. Post 57 is a serious answer.


Geez, no one even asked you to draw a duck.

Haha!!! The damn duck! And no I misread that I will go back and read #57 now.


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[ToddBrunswick]

Did YOU read my post? I said look at post 57 in that thread. Of course I read the ridiculous posts in that glorious masterpiece. Post 57 is a serious answer.


Geez, no one even asked you to draw a duck.

Should we just save everyone the heartbreak and have this moved to the chat section now?

[kiw1]

Would rather wait to see if the OP will draw a duck

[Allowencer]

Geez, no one even asked you to draw a duck.

ROFL

[ToddBrunswick]

Would rather wait to see if the OP will draw a duck

That's fair. So I guess we'll wait and see.

[Project Quattro]

Did YOU read my post? I said look at post 57 in that thread. Of course I read the ridiculous posts in that glorious masterpiece. Post 57 is a serious answer.


Geez, no one even asked you to draw a duck.

Should probably add an FMIC to that list. He's in Florida, that car could be heat soaking like a bastard. Not sure if it'd cause this issue exactly but definitely worth doing ASAP.


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[shonseb]

1. Drive in manual mode, The kick down when switching gears to accelerate is normal with automatics and results it a 1-2 sec delay. Driving in manual with rpms between 2800-4k will give you better repsonse.

2. Reduce your turbo lag: there is no one simple solution for this. There are a few places where you can improve the lag in area in a minuscule way, but when done altogether definitely improve the feel. This includes:
A) Intercooler piping: to get rid of the soundbox which is essentially dead space but also for smoother flow
B) Turbo Muffler delete: maybe a tenth of a second improvement difference
C) Intake: allowing air to rush in faster, improving air flow and lowering turbo spool time. Again maybe a tenth of a second difference
D) Intake hose: Really doesn't make a huge difference compared to the other mods. Maybe 1/100th of a second.

3. Intercooler: Project Quattro is absolutely right and likely this is the biggest thing robbing your engine of it's power. It doesn't add any horsepower but it prevents your engine from losing power because of heat soak. You can get an intercooler kit that includes the piping and in some cases includes the turbo muffler delete as well.

4. Tune: A tune may also improve the throttle response (does not reduce turbo lag) while at the same time improving the overall power and performance of the car. If you do go this route, I suggest you get a hi flow cat and go strait to stage 2. Also if you do this, get an upgraded intercooler. Nothing else will add and maintain power while giving you the best bang for your buck than a high flow cat, tune and intercooler.

You have a 6 speed and 2.0t meaning that you have a 2009/2010. Even if you got this as CPO you're likely out of warranty or soon will be, so #4 is the way I would go.

[b6Hate4]

A stock b8 would absoloutely be heatsoaked in Flordia. The stock FMIC isn't even sufficiant for a New England summer, let alone scortching FLA temps.

[CDuBDolla]

1. Drive in manual mode, The kick down when switching gears to accelerate is normal with automatics and results it a 1-2 sec delay. Driving in manual with rpms between 2800-4k will give you better repsonse.

2. Reduce your turbo lag: there is no one simple solution for this. There are a few places where you can improve the lag in area in a minuscule way, but when done altogether definitely improve the feel. This includes:
A) Intercooler piping: to get rid of the soundbox which is essentially dead space but also for smoother flow
B) Turbo Muffler delete: maybe a tenth of a second improvement difference
C) Intake: allowing air to rush in faster, improving air flow and lowering turbo spool time. Again maybe a tenth of a second difference
D) Intake hose: Really doesn't make a huge difference compared to the other mods. Maybe 1/100th of a second.

3. Intercooler: Project Quattro is absolutely right and likely this is the biggest thing robbing your engine of it's power. It doesn't add any horsepower but it prevents your engine from losing power because of heat soak. You can get an intercooler kit that includes the piping and in some cases includes the turbo muffler delete as well.

4. Tune: A tune may also improve the throttle response (does not reduce turbo lag) while at the same time improving the overall power and performance of the car. If you do go this route, I suggest you get a hi flow cat and go strait to stage 2. Also if you do this, get an upgraded intercooler. Nothing else will add and maintain power while giving you the best bang for your buck than a high flow cat, tune and intercooler.

You have a 6 speed and 2.0t meaning that you have a 2009/2010. Even if you got this as CPO you're likely out of warranty or soon will be, so #4 is the way I would go.

Word thank you man. I'm going to start with an intake and a tune. Then move to piping.


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[blbroo]

High Flow Cat will help smooth out power delivery. HFC, tune, intake and FMIC.

[b6Hate4]

Straight up...

Treadstone TR8- $250
Used HFC- ~$150
Stage 2 ~$650

Car transformed from a mild daily driver to a torque monster..$1150.

[CDuBDolla]

Straight up...

Treadstone TR8- $250
Used HFC- ~$150
Stage 2 ~$650

Car transformed from a mild daily driver to a torque monster..$1150.

Perfect. I just don't want to compromise reliability because race car lol. I know once you start building a beast it'll start breaking down every other week.


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[b6Hate4]

Perfect. I just don't want to compromise reliability because race car lol. I know once you start building a beast it'll start breaking down every other week.


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I've been tuned since 65k miles. I tuned the car 5 days after I bought it. It's been 2.5 years and 40k miles and I've never had an issue. Unitronic tuned. Car is fun as hell to drive.

[b6Hate4]

I'll also note that this is the 3rd Audi I've tuned. None of them were headaches. Treat the car right, and it will return the favor.

[CDuBDolla]

I've been tuned since 65k miles. I tuned the car 5 days after I bought it. It's been 2.5 years and 40k miles and I've never had an issue. Unitronic tuned. Car is fun as hell to drive.

Nice! What kind of upgrades other than the unitronic tune do you have? The ones you mentioned above?


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[b6Hate4]

Nice! What kind of upgrades other than the unitronic tune do you have? The ones you mentioned above?


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I'm running-

Uni Stage 2
Forge FMIC (has all aluminum piping)
APR carbonio intake
Eurocode inlet pipe
034 Catch can
Eurocode high flow cat
3" downpipe back custom exhaust.

I dynoed at Unitronic stage 1 (17-18psi) at 65* ambient temp and made 245awhp and 280awtq, I'm now at 24 psi on Uni stage 2 and need to hit the rollers again, because the torque gains down low have been huge, along with a smoother top end in 4th-6th gear which pulls hard on the highway.

[CDuBDolla]

I'm running-

Uni Stage 2
Forge FMIC (has all aluminum piping)
APR carbonio intake
Eurocode inlet pipe
034 Catch can
Eurocode high flow cat
3" downpipe back custom exhaust.

I dynoed at Unitronic stage 1 (17-18psi) at 65* ambient temp and made 245awhp and 280awtq, I'm now at 24 psi on Uni stage 2 and need to hit the rollers again, because the torque gains down low have been huge, along with a smoother top end in 4th-6th gear which pulls hard on the highway.

Very nice! Is that to the wheels or crank?


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[b6Hate4]

Very nice! Is that to the wheels or crank?


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This is to the wheels on a dyno dynamics setup. I now suspect (which I understand is all just hot air untill I get the dyno slip) that the car is in the realm of 270whp and 320 ish wheel torque. We'll see though.

[CDuBDolla]

This is to the wheels on a dyno dynamics setup. I now suspect (which I understand is all just hot air untill I get the dyno slip) that the car is in the realm of 270whp and 320 ish wheel torque. We'll see though.

Hell yea that's awesome. So on paper you're putting down like 350. I've been told these Quattro are known for 25% drivetrain loss?


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[b6Hate4]

Hell yea that's awesome. So on paper you're putting down like 350. I've been told these Quattro are known for 25% drivetrain loss?


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Well 25% is said to be what they lose at stock, but what some people over look is that it's not exactly a static number. I'll use two extremes as an example to show what I mean. Lets assume that the drive train loss is in fact 25%

Now, lets put a 4 horsepower motor in the car. The car should make 3whp.
Now, Lets put a 400 horsepower motor in it. The car would now make 300whp. Does it seem kinda wack that the drivetrain which sucked away 1hp is now sucking away 100? Absoloutely. So I think the drivetrain loss is a bit lower when you start to tune the car.

[CDuBDolla]

Well 25% is said to be what they lose at stock, but what some people over look is that it's not exactly a static number. I'll use two extremes as an example to show what I mean. Lets assume that the drive train loss is in fact 25%

Now, lets put a 4 horsepower motor in the car. The car should make 3whp.
Now, Lets put a 400 horsepower motor in it. The car would now make 300whp. Does it seem kinda wack that the drivetrain which sucked away 1hp is now sucking away 100? No. So I think the drivetrain loss is a bit lower when you start to tune the car.

Right on. I was upset to learn that my stasis tune, which advertised 269hp was really around 220 to the wheels lol


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