inside tire sidewall blowout

[VERJ]

Running on some Michelin PSS 255-35-19 on a set of RS6 rims, 19"x9.5". I had a blow out on the highway when the inner sidewall tore open. It is the second time this happens, both rear right tire. first time i assumed it was worn out or anomaly, but twice on the same rim....

I have H&R super sport springs so it sits low but really not too low.

Has anyone had an issue with these rims, or issues with rubbing on the inside wall? I'm at a loss as to my next move? spacers? sell the rims?

[shonseb]

Do you have rub or wear marks anywhere?

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[Audibot]

I didn't have an issue with rubbing, but had a set of Continentals where one blew, and after replacing that one, I noticed the remaining three were all severely deteriorating on the inner sidewall. All 4 on the same batch. Continental basically told me "go screw yourself" and accused me of running them at too low a pressure (which I've always been anal about).

So yeah, check your tire pressure. If not, try rotating the wheels around and see if it follows. Shouldn't be running on the inside, but spacers probably wouldn't hurt (even if they were 5 mm).

[o1turbo30v]

What's the inner tire look like on the left rear?

[VERJ]

I just put these back on this past sunday, and checked the tire pressure on all 4 at the time, set to around 45psi, max is said to be around 50. I did not notice any wear marks on my car fender liners, shocks, brake components or on the tires.... i will take a look at the rear left next time i get a chance.

Does anyone have experience with 9.5 tires rubbing on the inside? i see many people running 10" tires who seem to have clearance so i do not see how mine would rub.

I will get a set of spacers just to help my cause, with 5mm i dont expect to need to get longer wheel bolts.... can anyone confirm this for me?

[o1turbo30v]

To answer that question we need the wheel offset.

[Jacon]

You have an alignment problem, most likely toe. Get it realigned.

Spacers won't do you any good and if you were rubbing, you'd hear it.

Also, 45psi seems too high. Run 38-40 in the rear and 36-38 up front for that size tire.

How often do you rotate the tires?

[Slimwonder]

^ what he said. Plenty of people run those size tires on 9.5 and even 10 inch rims.
4 wheel alignment could be the answer your looking for. That will show up any faults quick

[VERJ]

These are C5 OEM rims, I believe the offset is 35. might be misaligned, but I did not notice anything on my winter rims when I removed them this past sunday, and I rotate make sure to rotate them when I install them.

I get the car checked when I get my oil changes done at audi, so I should be close enough to spec.

No noise from rubbing at all which makes me feel like isn't rubbing, didn't notice any marking on the shock either but I will take another look tonight and get pictures.

Overinflated would cause the tire to wear poorly, but I don't see it causing this.

Could it be the car is a little of center on the frame and on a hard corner causes it to flex and come in contact with something?

[Jacon]

Further, (because I've slept since last night) get your car aligned at a shop that specializes in lowered cars. Most cheap places (dealer included) plug in your car and the computer tries to align your car with stock height specs. It's the easiest way to align a car but does NOTHING for adjusting your lowered car. You'll leave with a car that still has F'ed alignment.

Find a race shop that knows what they're doing.

I'm at 25" from the fender on coils and have almost perfect alignment with a touch of camber.

[VERJ]

Here's the damage

And here it is when it looks pretty

[Jacon]

These are C5 OEM rims, I believe the offset is 35. might be misaligned, but I did not notice anything on my winter rims when I removed them this past sunday, and I rotate make sure to rotate them when I install them.

I get the car checked when I get my oil changes done at audi, so I should be close enough to spec.

No noise from rubbing at all which makes me feel like isn't rubbing, didn't notice any marking on the shock either but I will take another look tonight and get pictures.

Overinflated would cause the tire to wear poorly, but I don't see it causing this.

Could it be the car is a little of center on the frame and on a hard corner causes it to flex and come in contact with something?

1) If you were rubbing, you'd have marks in the sidewall or the springs. I guess you can remove the wheel to check and observe the spring perch.

2) The dealer cannot align lowered cars properly, but they're glad to take your money. You can 1) go to the Porsche dealer and pay $200 for an alignment 2) go to a race shop and get a proper alignment for the same amount.

3) Over inflation would wear the center of the tire more and not the sides, but if you have an alignment problem, you'll never know.

4) No, and if you are contacting something, IT'S BECAUSE YOU HAVE AN ALIGNMENT PROBLEM.

GET AN ALIGNMENT.

[Jacon]

Here's the damage

Pull the wheel and look at the spring and spring perch. Look for wear. What is the ET stamped on the wheel?

I still think you have an alignment problem.

[Mr.Audi]

If u installed springs and didn't align it ....
Then there is ur issue
The wear pattern itself shows an alignment of suspension issue
If it's repetitive and both sides wearing like that then it's the alignment!!
Get it aligned lol


Sent from ....

[VERJ]

Looks like I'm getting an alignment. So I understand properly, being not aligned is causing the wheel extra pressure on the inside wall, so it gave out? Is that correct?

I have had these springs for 2 years thus far and had them aligned when I got it. I guess the potholes threw it off over time.

Thanks for all the help guys

[VERJ]

if I get a new set of tires... is there a chance that I tear the sidewall before I get it aligned? or is it because these tires were used and tired? I don't want to blow another tire between the time I get the tires and the alignment done

[Jacon]

Looks like I'm getting an alignment. So I understand properly, being not aligned is causing the wheel extra pressure on the inside wall, so it gave out? Is that correct?

I have had these springs for 2 years thus far and had them aligned when I got it. I guess the potholes threw it off over time.

Thanks for all the help guys

That's possible, but looking at your pictures, I'd expect more top tread wear if it was only an alignment problem. If you're rubbing something then it'd still attribute it to alignment.

Potholes alone wouldn't throw off your alignment over time. Only a dumbfuck alignment tech can throw off your alignment...

Also, don't let anyone tell you the rear cannot be aligned. There is an D-shaped alignment bolt on the lower control arm for small adjustments.

[Jacon]

if I get a new set of tires... is there a chance that I tear the sidewall before I get it aligned? or is it because these tires were used and tired? I don't want to blow another tire between the time I get the tires and the alignment done

You bought used tires?

Like I said, check for interference between the tire and spring perch with the wheel on. If you were rubbing, you'd probably hear it. You'd need to put the car on a lift to take a look.

[The Infiltrator]

Looks like I'm getting an alignment. So I understand properly, being not aligned is causing the wheel extra pressure on the inside wall, so it gave out? Is that correct?

I have had these springs for 2 years thus far and had them aligned when I got it. I guess the potholes threw it off over time.

Thanks for all the help guys

Yeah get an alignment... Mine was a little off after a couple years from settling even though it was aligned after spring and shock install and was wearing the inside more than normal (this was years back).

It's a good idea to get it realigned every time you bring it in for a new set of tires too.

[VERJ]

You bought used tires?

Like I said, check for interference between the tire and spring perch with the wheel on. If you were rubbing, you'd probably hear it. You'd need to put the car on a lift to take a look.

the tires are used from last year, I was running on my winters up until last week. Just put these back on sunday. I was referring to if a brand new tire would also fail so quickly, its making me paranoid that if I put new tires on, I might not make it for the alignment, as my tire shop doesn't do alignments. I will get the car in the air to look for any rubbing but like you said, I would hear it and when I look, see it.

Yeah get an alignment... Mine was a little off after a couple years from settling even though it was aligned after spring and shock install and was wearing the inside more than normal (this was years back).

It's a good idea to get it realigned every time you bring it in for a new set of tires too.

Would it make a difference if I had my alignment done on my winters? I don't think it was the case, but may have been over the winter when they adjusted my car.

[The Infiltrator]

the tires are used from last year, I was running on my winters up until last week. Just put these back on sunday. I was referring to if a brand new tire would also fail so quickly, its making me paranoid that if I put new tires on, I might not make it for the alignment, as my tire shop doesn't do alignments. I will get the car in the air to look for any rubbing but like you said, I would hear it and when I look, see it.



Would it make a difference if I had my alignment done on my winters? I don't think it was the case, but may have been over the winter when they adjusted my car.

of course it would, think about it. Different wheel size, offset and tire width.

[Jacon]

of course it would, think about it. Different wheel size, offset and tire width.

uhh, wut?

No, different wheels, tires, etc. shouldn't have anything to do with your alignment.

[The Infiltrator]

uhh, wut?

No, different wheels, tires, etc. shouldn't have anything to do with your alignment.

I wasn't clear I guess, but you're right.

I meant they will wear differently with different spacers, sizes, offsets and all that. The alignment will stay the same but the wear will be different, but in no way would it be enough to wear your tires down as they did to yours.

[VERJ]

I wasn't clear I guess, but you're right.

I meant they will wear differently with different spacers, sizes, offsets and all that. The alignment will stay the same but the wear will be different, but in no way would it be enough to wear your tires down as they did to yours.

a little research on the google machine shows that different offsets can mean slight adjustments for caster and toe, turn radius etc... so it seems to affect a little. I thought that as long as the hub sat in the same place in respect to the car, I would be ok, tire size wouldn't affect it. But I don't think enough that would cause my problem. I was asking as I have my alignment set up for tomorrow afternoon and was going to get my tires in order before hand to be aligned with the correct rims. But on the off chance I cannot fix my tire issue tomorrow morning, I was going to swap for my winters to get my alignment done, not ideal, but I cannot do it with my spare so

[rh4896]

I have a quick question. I have the same tires, same size . I went with the PSI in my manual, i think it said 32PSI for this size tire. Been running it this way for about 200 miles. Am I way off on this?

[VERJ]

I have a quick question. I have the same tires, same size . I went with the PSI in my manual, i think it said 32PSI for this size tire. Been running it this way for about 200 miles. Am I way off on this?

I would say you are a bit low. my tires say max 50psi on them, but that's way too much and I feel like im driving on blocks of rubber. I was told by a mechanic to always put tire pressur based on the recommended pressur indicated on your door sil, which may be around 32psi I am not sure. But I fill it to around 40 psi and look to see if there is any bulge in the tire, front I allow and rear I don't. However I was told earlier in this threat (post 7)to Run 38-40 in the rear and 36-38 up front for that size tire, (thanks Jacon for the info, I will try that)
for a normally sizes tire, with 'normal' aspect ratio I would say its fine, but not for low profile, I think its not enough to give the sidewall any support.

[rh4896]

Sounds good. Was going off the manual for normal load. But looks like I should bump it up a little and check tread wear periodically

[VERJ]

Just got it back from my alignment and they said it was pretty good all around, but they still tightened it up more. Also said camber in the back cannot be fixed and it's due to me being lowered.... Did I just get screwed? Or is that correct?

[Mr.Audi]

Post a pic of the spec sheet they provided

Did you provide any info to the alignment shop you went to about your issues?
-- if you did, did they suggest anything based on the cars condition?


Sent from ....

[VERJ]

No spec sheet provided, I didn't ask for it before hand so they didn't print it.
I told them before hand the issue with the rear right and to look at it. Said lowered cars have camber but it shouldn't be an issue as its within tolerance

[Jacon]

Just got it back from my alignment and they said it was pretty good all around, but they still tightened it up more. Also said camber in the back cannot be fixed and it's due to me being lowered.... Did I just get screwed? Or is that correct?

yeah, you go screwed and always ask for the spec sheet.

Like I said earlier, they gave you an excuse because they probably aligned it to factory specs.

"Within tolerance?" Tolerance compared to what?

"Tightened it up more"? What the fuck does that mean? If it was loose, they would've had to make an adjustment. Where did you go to get an alignment?

Lastly, I told you not to take any shit about the rear not being able to be aligned. There's a D-shaped alignment bolt on the lower control arm to make slight adjustments to the rear.

[The Infiltrator]

No spec sheet provided, I didn't ask for it before hand so they didn't print it.
I told them before hand the issue with the rear right and to look at it. Said lowered cars have camber but it shouldn't be an issue as its within tolerance

I'm guessing you went to the same place that did the last alignment....

[VERJ]

yeah, you go screwed and always ask for the spec sheet.

Like I said earlier, they gave you an excuse because they probably aligned it to factory specs.

"Within tolerance?" Tolerance compared to what?

"Tightened it up more"? What the fuck does that mean? If it was loose, they would've had to make an adjustment. Where did you go to get an alignment?

Lastly, I told you not to take any shit about the rear not being able to be aligned. There's a D-shaped alignment bolt on the lower control arm to make slight adjustments to the rear.

I assumed they would have provided 1 and it wasn't something I had to ask for. The garage is supposed to be reputable and able to do lowered cars so I felt I should listen to them when they said its within audi spec for camber, caster, and toe in.

if I go back to them, to get it fixed once and for all. I can tell them about the D-shaped alignment bolt to fix the camber, as far as I can see, the camber is causing the problem.

I'm guessing you went to the same place that did the last alignment....

alignment was previously done at Audi when I go in for my oil change etc with Audi care. They roll in onto the alignment machine before they put it on the lift, then they give a print out of the alignment to the service manager, so you can see right away if an alignment is needed, or to bring it to within Audi spec.

Can anyone show me a print out or tell me what I alignment should be at? something I can bring to them and request

[Jacon]

I assumed they would have provided 1 and it wasn't something I had to ask for. The garage is supposed to be reputable and able to do lowered cars so I felt I should listen to them when they said its within audi spec for camber, caster, and toe in.

if I go back to them, to get it fixed once and for all. I can tell them about the D-shaped alignment bolt to fix the camber, as far as I can see, the camber is causing the problem.

I stated this earlier:

The shop is going to put your car on the lift and tell the computer it's an audi A4. The computer will pull the specs for an audi assuming it's on stock suspension. The tech (because he doesn't know what he's doing) will align to what the computer tells him and NOT according to the car's current ride height.

The computer (because it doesn't know you're lower) tries to shove a square peg in a round hole by trying to align your car presuming you're not lowered.

Like I said, 1) take it to a Porsche dealer 2) take it to a race shop that specs RACE CARS and not "lowered cars". Saying a car is "within spec" means that the car is within spec for a stock car. You're not stock so those dimensions no longer apply.

Lastly, the alignment in the rear affects what happens in the front so if you start with a fucked up rear, your front will be screwed too.

alignment was previously done at Audi when I go in for my oil change etc with Audi care. They roll in onto the alignment machine before they put it on the lift, then they give a print out of the alignment to the service manager, so you can see right away if an alignment is needed, or to bring it to within Audi spec.

Can anyone show me a print out or tell me what I alignment should be at? something I can bring to them and request

Audi cannot properly align a lowered car. Their techs aren't trained to do it and their machines try to force it to factory specs.

Audi spec is up to +/- 2 degrees of camber all around. FYI, 2 degrees is enough to cause improper wear

[The Infiltrator]

I stated this earlier:

The shop is going to put your car on the lift and tell the computer it's an audi A4. The computer will pull the specs for an audi assuming it's on stock suspension. The tech (because he doesn't know what he's doing) will align to what the computer tells him and NOT according to the car's current ride height.

The computer (because it doesn't know you're lower) tries to shove a square peg in a round hole by trying to align your car presuming you're not lowered.

Like I said, 1) take it to a Porsche dealer 2) take it to a race shop that specs RACE CARS and not "lowered cars". Saying a car is "within spec" means that the car is within spec for a stock car. You're not stock so those dimensions no longer apply.

Lastly, the alignment in the rear affects what happens in the front so if you start with a fucked up rear, your front will be screwed too.

I feel like we are talking to a brick wall.

[bakedziti]

Can anyone show me a print out or tell me what I alignment should be at? something I can bring to them and request

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=wheel+alignment+print+out+sheet

I feel like we are talking to a brick wall.

[VERJ]

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=wheel+alignment+print+out+sheet

I know what the sheet looks like, I was hoping more for a sheet with real world numbers. my alignment is all within the green. Should I run with 0 camber in the rear? or should I always have a little negative camber? or is it option?

I ask a lot of questions because I like/want to understand

[root_to_the_a4]

First thing you did wrong was lower your car without fully understanding what you are doing to the suspension. When you lower a car it needs negative camber in order to fit the wheel in the wheel well with clearance. It seems that in your case, you had an over inflated tire which pushes the side wall out and enough camber that the sidewall was able to wear on the road. Way to fix this is only go about 32-35 psi in your tires. That's what Audi recommends anyways. Also I would watch some YouTube videos or work on a car so you understand the modifications you're doing. Any time you change tires, winters (typically meaty tire) to summers (typically lower profile) you should get an alignment and make sure to get that sheet. It holds a lot more info than you think such as camber, the adjustments made, etc.


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[VERJ]

First thing you did wrong was lower your car without fully understanding what you are doing to the suspension. When you lower a car it needs negative camber in order to fit the wheel in the wheel well with clearance. It seems that in your case, you had an over inflated tire which pushes the side wall out and enough camber that the sidewall was able to wear on the road. Way to fix this is only go about 32-35 psi in your tires. That's what Audi recommends anyways. Also I would watch some YouTube videos or work on a car so you understand the modifications you're doing. Any time you change tires, winters (typically meaty tire) to summers (typically lower profile) you should get an alignment and make sure to get that sheet. It holds a lot more info than you think such as camber, the adjustments made, etc.


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Thanks for the explanation, I'll leave it for now and double check my tire pressures this afternoon.
I have my appointment for an oil hanged at Audi in a week or so, so I'll look at the sheet when I'm there

[The Infiltrator]

Funny thing about this whole thread is it's made me remember I need an alignment with my new tires. I just called five different shops before getting the sixth to do my alignment. Most don't have the equipment and it sucks but you guys really need to make sure before hand and let them know it's not at stock height. I'm getting my new tires put on so mounted, balanced and the alignment is $173. Not too bad I must say...