A6 k24 Rs6 Turbo Build

[Noremac]

So heres some of the goodies waiting to get installed:


This weekend i spent a few hours fighting with that fuel pump basket and trying to squeeze the walbro 450 i bought in it. Used the two screwdriver method to unlock the basket out of the tank. The hose fit on the output of the pump with a little patience and a heat gun. The stock pump is held in by three tabs at the top. With 3 flathead screwdrivers you can pry to release those tabs and then someone needs to push down on the basket to pop the fuel pump up and out. The stock pump comes up and out of the stock basket and the 450 goes in the bottom of the stock basket. I used a foam insulator meant for walbro fuel pumps. They had 3 thickness choices, i bought two and used the medium. The thick one wouldve been really tough to jam in the basket. Heres the one i used:
http://www.autoperformanceengineerin...html/kits.html

The strainer that came in my walbro pump kit fit just fine in the basket and ive attached some pics to show the height of how far the pump is pushed into the basket. When i was trying to install the lid i realized the output of the pump was right in the way of the other wires connected to the lid(fuel level sensor i believe). I took it out to rotate it and gain more room. There is a little extra height too if youre fighting the lid you can slide the pump down maybe 1/4" further in the basket but i didnt like the idea of the strainer sitting directly on the floor in the tank. I used a handful of 11.3 mm and 13.8 mm oetiker clamps. If you dont use the stock fuel line make sure youre using something rated for in tank use.




I know im not the only one to install that pump in our platform before but I felt a little uneasy digging into it. Worried the output of the pump wouldnt fit and also fitment and holding the new pump in the old basket. The worst part is dealing with all the one time use clamps. You can elevate the passenger side of the car to shift most of the gas to the other side of the tank. I did mine with the tank 1/4 full. Dont forget to follow a full write up I just wanted to add some walbro 450 specific instructions.

In a couple weeks i plan on dropping my engine out to bolt up the new turbos, intake mani and injectors. Ill follow up on that as I make progress.

[Royal769sr]

Thanks for the info on removing the pump. Good luck on the build. I love my a6 Rs6'd beast. But when I get rid of these I am thinking jhm or tials. Let me know if you have some questions. What tune are you going with? I did mine myself

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[Noremac]

Ive been using nefmoto to flash. Ive gotten the 4" maf housing and the 5120 hack implemented and running happy. Still gotta changeover injectors and deal with the boost management.

[Royal769sr]

What year is your car?

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[Noremac]

03. Ive been using the 551r bin. Someone also uploaded a 551r 5120 hack file so ive been using that.

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

Nice work, keep us updated!

[Robsa6]

hell yeah! I'm going rs6 hybrids when I get tired of the k04's. I'd love the 551 bin you are talking about... The 5120 hack is a nice way to over come the cap the motronic box is set up with

[Royal769sr]

03. Ive been using the 551r bin. Someone also uploaded a 551r 5120 hack file so ive been using that.

Nice! Been awhile since I been on there. Mine is an 03 as well. I am running out a 551r bin but I could Not get the 5120 hack to work or the launch control. I will have to get back on there and see about the update.

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[Royal769sr]

And of course the site is down

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[Noremac]

Yeah i really wanted launch control too. and all my attempts have failed to get it functioning. Theres an anti-lag patch script that may work I havent investigated that yet. I got my Ford GT500 mustang ev14's installed this weekend. Paid $30/injector. They flow 610cc at 4bar and still have the dual cone spray pattern. My fuel rail posts have been shaved 1/8" on my intake manifold so the fuel rail sits lower and compensates for the slight difference between stock injector height and the slightly shorter ev14's. I had to use adapters for the us car injectors to ev6 connectors our harness has. They just barely fit under the fuel rail with them. Also got my new valve covers on and put it some bk7re plugs. I wouldve got more pictures but the rain was moving in on me.
Tuning for the injectors was very easy, I ended up modifying
KRKTE .05495
FKKVS set to 1.02
TEMINVA .2987
TVUB 3.25 1.62 1.158 .751 .541 for battery voltages 8, 10, 12, 14, 16
They worked first start. Everything idles normal but ive got a little more crackle pop on lift off and coast. It can be fixed with the decel fuel cutoff maps but i kinda like it
In the next weekend or two Ill be pulling the motor and getting those turbos in. Ive already prepared a base file to run about 22 psi and adjusted the maps necessary to deal with the difference in waste gate spring stiffness so at this point its just a matter of getting the work done.

[Royal769sr]

Sounds good man. Keep it coming

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[Noremac]

Wideband gauge isnt ordered yet but I wanted to make a half decent looking pod for it and C5 platform doesnt have many pre fab options.


Also made this poly diff carrier mount. 70 Durometer solid bushing should be an improvement from the stock version. I wasnt going to shell out for the apikol version so i made my own.

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

How did you make the diff mount? I need details. Very cool

[brokenwrench]

When I finally get around to working on my A6 again, I plan to use similar material to replace the driveline bearing rubber, as well as any other suspension bushings that may need it.

Here's what I've used before that seems to work great:

https://www.smooth-on.com/products/pmc-780-wet/

This stuff is Shore 80, but you can get it at different hardness levels.

[Royal769sr]

Nice. I made a dual pod mount that goes over my steering column. Not finished product because I got lazy. All I would have to do is remake it out of better material or cover it the way it is. Sorry no pics (yet) but I did in a way I can still see redline and if I am going 15mph or not.

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[Noremac]

Before i removed the rubber, I made a 2 part casting of the mount and center bushing. Pop out the old rubber and clean up the center dowel, then assemble and pour in the material. Cure it for 16 hours, demold and then bake in a commercial oven for 6 hours at 150 degrees f. Im working on the 2 bushings in the diff yoke next. The product i used also was from Smooth-On. I picked 70 durometer after surveying what 034 and other manufacturers were using. 80 might be pretty intense for anything but a track car. The red track rated apikol one can cause some diff whine.
If anyone wants one, I can send them out $120 to your door, $95 if you send me your diff mount bracket first. I can do different colors and also 60,70,80 durometer.

I bought a steering column clamshell for my a6 to make a gauge too. I ride with the telescopic steering column fully compressed and that doesnt leave much room on top of the clamshell cover. Thought the drivers side vent would be an easier task but it was a pain.

[Noremac]

Update: Got the new turbos installed and numerous other things while the engine was out.

Subframe cart works great if you have a lift available.
Stock driveshaft support before:

After window weld:

Out of the motor mounts, trans mounts, driveshaft support and diff mount, the driveshaft support was the flimsy-ist and most shot out of everything. Took me 10 mins while exhaust was already down to fill the extra cavity of the rubber bushing in the driveshaft support. I had some mid car vibration at 40 mph before and it seems much improved. But i did the motor/trans (034) mounts and this all at one time. The slack between on the gas and off is gone now as well.


my driver side turbo fit like ass. Rubbing the compressor housing on the exhaust mani. The relief cut put on there wasnt located properly and prevented me from bolting up the turbo. As i look at other k24 images the relief cut is larger and makes me think something was screwed up on this one. Took a file to my compressor housing and widened the relief carefully didnt wanna take anymore off of it so i used a grinding wheel on the exhaust mani too. Got that to work then onto the next problem. The water line coming from under the motor mount bracket needed adjusting. Theres a bracket on it that was no where close to lining up with the nut located on the turbo. Had to shave that bracket on the turbo so that the banjo bolt could thread in straight. This all took 20 tries and way too much time. The upper coolant banjo bolt head had to be shaved a tad so the oil feed would clear over the top of it. Emailed the vendor about the issues, never got a response. But i did see the turbos are $300 cheaper than when i bought them

And dont get me started on the inlet piping....but i guess they all fit bad.

Passenger side was a little easier no fitment issues. Running the new oil feed lines is a B****. If youre replacing those plan on having some patience, stubby 17 mm and crowfoot 17 as well. Otherwise take the intake manifold off and youll have much more room. The coolant pipes under the intake manifold make it a hassle to get the passenger oil feed banjo bolt out but its possible without removing the coolant line.

I used custom wrenches (17 mm and 19) with the sides of the spanner shaved down for most of the turbo lines.

Access really is tight when going to a larger exhaust housing stuffed in the same place. The motor came out in 6 hours and went back in 8. I think i spent about 25-30 hours doing the whole project. Wouldve been half the time with a k03 install. I also did upper control arms, both temp sensors in the rear coolant crossover pipe because they looked wet under the connector.

Everything off the car

This is what my spider hose looked like at the valley pan connection after 96k miles. Glad i took that off it was like half full of crud.
Its been on the road for a couple weeks and im still working on the overboost when i stomp the gas. Blew the TBB hose off 4 times in the last week but im getting closer. Missing the low end grunt of the k03's but after 3500 rpm the k24s come alive and its all worth it. Cant imagine how nice it will be when i get the boost PID straightened and can just enjoy it without feeling like shes gonna blow up.