What did I do CXRacing K04 Taking a Gamble

[gg3000gt]

2000 ATW with 207,000 mi bad k03

Well I took the plunge I purchased the CXracing ko4 and did the rebuild with the larger better Journal bearing.

I also purchased the XSpower exhaust tubular mainfold.

I will begin on this more than likely this weekend I will try to keep this post updated as I go.















Build quilty is ok....

Turbo has definitely been balanced you can see the grind marks on the compressor side however I'm not sure how well it was balanced.

I do have a few questions if anyone can help.

1. I'll be replacing the coolant, oil feed and oil return lines with braided lines. On the oil feed and coolant lines do I need Crush washers between the turbo and the connector.

2. I plan on using -4an for oil feed. -6 for coolant lines and -8an for oil return, are these lines sufficient?

3. I'm also not using a oil restrictor which I don't believe you need on a journal bearing turbo correct?

[gg3000gt]

Credit to RENOxDECEPTION for his rebuild video.

[xdewaynex]

Crush washers are definitely needed. I used -3 for oil feed without a restrictor, -10 for oil return and -6 for coolant feed/return. This is on a Frankenturbo F4HL. I went by PSI Concepts list, but spent 1/3 of the price by piecing everything together myself. http://www.psiconcepts.com/store/ind...t_detail&p=177

[Spectre1130]

3. I'm also not using a oil restrictor which I don't believe you need on a journal bearing turbo correct?

Correct, journal bearing turbo's do not use a restrictor. Make sure you use the same size though for your oil feed as is previously on it. If you oversize it too much you can blow oil through the seals, just as if you didn't use a restrictor on a BB turbo.

EDIT: I personally like CXRacing. The shop I worked for sourced all their turbos from them. I built endless amounts of turbo kits utilizing their turbos and only heard of one failing prematurely. I would worry more about cheap tubular manifolds. Alot of times they will stress fracture. I've seen some cheap ones crack after a month or so. In my opinion if you are going to use a cheap manifold, use cast.

[RENOxDECEPTION]

Credit to RENOxDECEPTION for his rebuild video.

in socks.



what others have said, no oil restriction, these journal bearings rely on a film of oil between the shaft and the brass bearing; don't want to supply too little oil.

[VanCityA4Q]

You all say no oil restricter. That's hogwash lol. I have a turbonetics journal bearing turbo and straight from their engineers they say if your oil pressure is above 70psi to install a restrictor.
I know on my car when it starts up cold I run around 100 psi until the oil warms up, then it drops down to 30psi or around there at least. So on startup you run a real risk of blowing your turbo seals. Also most manufacturers say to use a -3 or -4an feed line and minimum -10 return. Also be sure your oil drain is within 15 degrees of being straight down, otherwise you can have back pressure problems.

But what do I know. I'm just a lowly mechanical engineer lol :)


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[gg3000gt]

Thanks for the advice.

I do have a new question. I will be doing the wideband conversion. My primary 02 sensor port on my test pipe is straight up and is going to hit the manifold. I have the rear O2 sensor deleted (coded out.) Can I place the primary O2 sensor in the secondary O2 sensor port??
Not sure if this places it to far downstream.

[VanCityA4Q]

If you're not running a cat you can put it in the secondary place yes. Won't hurt a thing.

[RENOxDECEPTION]

You all say no oil restricter. That's hogwash lol. I have a turbonetics journal bearing turbo and straight from their engineers they say if your oil pressure is above 70psi to install a restrictor.
I know on my car when it starts up cold I run around 100 psi until the oil warms up, then it drops down to 30psi or around there at least. So on startup you run a real risk of blowing your turbo seals. Also most manufacturers say to use a -3 or -4an feed line and minimum -10 return. Also be sure your oil drain is within 15 degrees of being straight down, otherwise you can have back pressure problems.

But what do I know. I'm just a lowly mechanical engineer lol :)


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Running on k03/04 with the standard supply and return lines, no restricter. Upgrading lines/turbo past a k04 might cause issues, I have no way of knowing. I assume the 1.8t supply was designed to supply adequate oil for the k03/04 without modification.

[Spectre1130]

You all say no oil restricter. That's hogwash lol. I have a turbonetics journal bearing turbo and straight from their engineers they say if your oil pressure is above 70psi to install a restrictor.
I know on my car when it starts up cold I run around 100 psi until the oil warms up, then it drops down to 30psi or around there at least. So on startup you run a real risk of blowing your turbo seals. Also most manufacturers say to use a -3 or -4an feed line and minimum -10 return. Also be sure your oil drain is within 15 degrees of being straight down, otherwise you can have back pressure problems.

But what do I know. I'm just a lowly mechanical engineer lol :)


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So... No. Still don't install a restrictor. Lets say your engine does get 100 psig oil pressure on a cold start up. That doesn't last very long, so now you could be possibly starving the turbo bearing causing it to fail. I would much rather have the risk for a few minutes of high pressure verses starving it the whole rest of the drive. Most

It is highly recommended NOT to install a restrictor on a journal bearing turbo. They should only be installed IF and only if you are getting oil leakage past the seals, and only as a last resort after checking your oil drain to ensure it isn't causing low drainage flow. And yes make sure the oil drain is large enough and slopes into the oil pan. Don't put a long ass horizontal fitting at the bottom.

Congrats on being a mechanical engineer I guess (because that is pertinent)?

Here are some references. http://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygar...il_water_lines https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbo...oil_restrictor

[RENOxDECEPTION]

Another good point ^

[Corrado_Guy]

The rule of thumb for the restrictor is they are used on ball bearing turbos but not on journal bearing turbos. If the manufacturer specifically recommends them in a journal turbo you use them otherwise you should not. The O2 sensor should be no closer than 12 - 18 inches from the outlet on the turbo but as long as there are no exhaust leaks forward of it you can easily go back a few feet. I have seen some people go pretty far back on the primary and it still seems to work properly. Why npt weld in a new bung? As long as it is not clocked from 3 - 9 o clock there should be no issues, it doesn't have to sit straight up it just has to be on the top part of the pipe.

[VanCityA4Q]

Running on k03/04 with the standard supply and return lines, no restricter. Upgrading lines/turbo past a k04 might cause issues, I have no way of knowing. I assume the 1.8t supply was designed to supply adequate oil for the k03/04 without modification.

Very good point, I was thinking more along the lines of a big turbo upgrade, not basically a stock setup. Touché my friend lol

[RENOxDECEPTION]

I want to say the housing on the k03/04 has a restricter built in too...

[gg3000gt]

So old k03 out 205,000 miles lots of shaft play

I would say the hardest part was the bottom bolt for the turbo bracket under the turbo on the block PITA to get at.

Drop a bolt down my down pipe. Is that way it's called a down pipe? HA

So I that will be extra unnecessary work.

Also 2 out of 3 of the manifold to turbo bolts broke off.

Getting the studs out of the k03 to put them on the k04 was a pain aswell,thank goodness for MAP gas.

Anyone have a good technique for removing the oil feed line from the oil filter housing?? looks tricky to get at.

[Davdraco1]

There is a nut that holds the oil feed line to the back of the head. I think it's actually on the plastic coolant flange. There's also a bolt holding it to the block about 6 in from the oil housing. After that you start to twist it out. I would put new crash washer on the banjo bolt when you put it cl back in tho. I forgot to put any washer on it at all when I put my new motor in and I had the car on for about 10 seconds when my friend realized there was oil in see the car. I dumped almost 4 qts in those 10 seconds.

[RENOxDECEPTION]

There is a nut that holds the oil feed line to the back of the head. I think it's actually on the plastic coolant flange. There's also a bolt holding it to the block about 6 in from the oil housing. After that you start to twist it out. I would put new crash washer on the banjo bolt when you put it cl back in tho. I forgot to put any washer on it at all when I put my new motor in and I had the car on for about 10 seconds when my friend realized there was oil in see the car. I dumped almost 4 qts in those 10 seconds.

the classic "looks like there's oil pressure at the turbo" test.

[Spectre1130]

I want to say the housing on the k03/04 has a restricter built in too...

From my understanding, most journal bearing turbos have a built in restrictor. I think it has something to do with how they are cast. Not sure, just something I heard as well.

Nice progress on the swap. Sorry no advice on how to get the fitting off. I have a million tools and usually just find something that works.

[gg3000gt]

So I hit a snag.






I was planing on running all braided lines. Thinking all the block connections where threaded.
However this coolant line has a nipple off the block?
Can I cap this and tap into a different location?

What's recommended.(my orginal line was leaking.)

[RENOxDECEPTION]

I've seen someone get an AN fitting on there, it's my plan.

[gg3000gt]

How the heck would you put an AN fitting on their?

[czum09]

They make AN adapters for hardlines

[czum09]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl's/361/AT1...IscaAlRF8P8HAQ

Just need to figure out what size you need!

[Spectre1130]

The AWM block must be different. Mine was threaded.

[Turbo_B5]

The AWM block must be different. Mine was threaded.

my 97 has the nipple.

[MetalMan]

Yeah that's an 058 block thing (at least AEB... not sure about ATW).

[RENOxDECEPTION]

058 bottom ends are identical.
ATdub has the nip.

[xdewaynex]

For mine I just used a short piece of rubber coolant hose with a barbed an fitting, done the same with the coolant return.

[gg3000gt]

Should be getting this wrapped up this weekend.

Can I get away with braided -8AN oil return line?The reason I ask is I already have 8AN flanges on the pan and bottom of the turbo.

[Spectre1130]

Should be getting this wrapped up this weekend.

Can I get away with braided -8AN oil return line?The reason I ask is I already have 8AN flanges on the pan and bottom of the turbo.

I would say no, go with at least 10AN. If you have a 4AN supply and you are pushing around 60 psig oil through the turbo it could get bottle necked because the drain is only using gravity, no driving force for it. In reality you may be able to get away with 8AN but I wouldn't want to try it and then have issue with seals and have to redo it.

[gg3000gt]

Got her all back together.

He's some crap cell phone pics follow by a even crappier video.

I think I'm getting turbo flutter. What could be the cause?
I set the wastegate to three turns of pretension.

And keeping the DV at the same setting I had it on with the K03. Still running Reflect Tuning K03 18 psi tune with stock injectors.

[gg3000gt]

[Bordom]

That one weld looks really weak

Everything graciously mispelled by Android

[gg3000gt]

So first problems

1. Coolant return line leaking-Fixed Installed new crush washer.

2. Cheap Exhaust manifold to turbo gasket blew out already - ordered metal gasket (also Will be replacing turbo to test pipe gasket as well).

3. Getting major turbo flutter after full boost and leting off gas at 18 psi. Forged DV with adjustment knob facing straight up. Anyone have any idea what could be the cause.

[Davdraco1]

What do you mean by turbo flutter?

[Chrisw023]

What dv are you running?

[RENOxDECEPTION]

Check vacuum lines to n249

[gg3000gt]

So I was replacing the manifold to turbo gasket with a metal one as the cheap one that came with the manifold blew out.

Like a jackass I stripped the threads out of one the the turbo bolt holes.

Pulled turbo still have about six good threads at the bottom of the bolt hole.

I don't suppose anyone's gotten away with only running two bolts to connect a turbo to the manifold?

[xdewaynex]

Best bet is to have a heli coil put in it. I had to do my Frankenturbo that way, thanks to bolts loosening up and messing the threads up.

[gg3000gt]

Well got everything together runs good.
Running K0pressed k03 tune 18 psi. Stock injectors.
Getting boost spikes of about 23 psi so will be installing inline boost controller in conjunction with n75.

The turbo seem to spool a lot louder, hard to describe almost like it's "screaming".
Doesn't sound quite right.
Anyone else experience this?

Also is a proper K04 tune w/injectors really worth the gains.

So far I've put about 75 miles on this set up.

Also
Bought a cheap -4AN oil feed line off eBay mistake the thing was leaking at the point where the fitting was pressed on.
I already replaced this with a quality line from a local speed shop.