034 Wheel Stud Bolts are garbage?

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

Has anyone else purchased these?

I received my kit to have ALL the studs poorly casted. WTF is going on here? Look in the picture and you can see 3 of the 5 sides of the allen hole rounded. I would have expected much better from this company.

https://store.034motorsport.com/whee...onversion.html

[MacDaddy]

034 is kinda hit or miss

[JVD]

Post pics.

I feel like all these guys get their studs from the same place (Wheelmate). A similar thread has been started before.

My Ringer ones weren't great. Neither were my ones I got from a local shop (Wheelmate brand).

I didn't really care because they just need to be hand tight.

[AudiTechS4]

order them on ebay next time and save a bunch of money . i used a double nut method

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

I ordered another set from ebay this morning from pe-motorwerks. Hopefully these are better quality. I know the double nut method would work, it was just disappointing.

If I had paid $.20 each for the ones from 034 I would be happy

Post pics.

Not with the car right now. But all 20 studs looked like the one in the pictured in the link above.

[MetalMan]

I wasn't pleased with the options of 034 and Ringer Racing when I did my stud conversion.

There is a company called Fast Wheel Accessories that helped me out. I went with M14x1.5 x 64mm long wheel studs, but had to contact them directly. Paid $21 shipped for all 20 studs... and the quality proved great, particularly for the cost. Been running them for about a year. Granted we get no snow/salt here and it doesn't rain very often.

Also I wasn't satisfied with the similar above-mentioned options for lug nuts. I found a company called T3 Techniques, and ordered 17mm-head cone-seat, open-end lug nuts for $46 shipped. A little on the expensive side but the options for GOOD 17mm-head lug nuts with a M14x1.5 thread are VERY slim. These have been great for the last year.

Recently I picked up a set of OEM Audi wheels (B7 A4 S-line Y-spoke), and will have to order ball-seat lug nuts. I plan to go with T3 Techniques again.

[AudiTechS4]

i bought these studs (needed conversion studs)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371429231368
and these lugs - as said before needed thin wall and open end
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281933491033

worked great at the drag strip launching the crap out of my car :)

[*Blue-Angel*]

http://www.track-studs.com/ProductInfo/stud_landing.cfm

or

http://arp-bolts.com/kits/product.php?PL=55

[Hulksmash]

Has anyone else purchased these?

I received my kit to have ALL the studs poorly casted. WTF is going on here? Look in the picture and you can see 3 of the 5 sides of the allen hole rounded. I would have expected much better from this company.

https://store.034motorsport.com/whee...onversion.html

Doesn't surprise me. Atleast your studs weren't warped. Friend bought his studs off of eBay. Cheap with no issues. I've had nothing but problems with 034 parts. Fooled too many times. “There's an old saying in Tennessee — I know it's in Texas, probably in Tennessee — that says, fool me once, shame on — shame on you. Fool me — you can't get fooled again.” - George Bush Jr.

[Zba]

Haha, it's funny cuz it's true!

[tar]

034 needs to weigh in on this. They are very selective in where they post I've noticed.

[Dalers08]

I had 034 studs and they rusted and stripped pretty quickly. Been on ringerracing studs for about 2 years now and they're still mint.

[034Motorsport]

Has anyone else purchased these?

I received my kit to have ALL the studs poorly casted. WTF is going on here? Look in the picture and you can see 3 of the 5 sides of the allen hole rounded. I would have expected much better from this company.

https://store.034motorsport.com/whee...onversion.html

I apologize for the issue with your wheel studs. It does look like we received a few with defects in at the allen key provision on the stud, which were missed in QC and shipped out. I'm very sorry, and appreciate you bringing this to our attention.

We'll get them replaced for you ASAP! Please email Samuel at [email protected] with your order info so that he can facilitate the exchange.

[getslideways]

My Ringer ones weren't great. Neither were my ones I got from a local shop (Wheelmate brand).

Same, I hade one of the supplied ballseat wheel nuts crack/chip when tightening them onto the studs, and they have gotten pretty rusty colored without constant cleaning. However, function wise they still work and is one of my most used and appreciated mods.

I didn't really care because they just need to be hand tight.

This is worth re posting. I feel like I see so many people posting about cracked or broken studs because they are trying to put them in with 90+ ft/lbs of torque. They are not meant to be torqued like wheel bolts or wheel nuts. Just hand tight and a little more for peace of mind with the stud install. I put locktite on mine for future convenience just so they wouldn't spin out with the nuts when removing them.

[JKnight41]

I had 034, and went ECS instead, I do have some products from 034 (Sway bar, intake, ICM delete) that I am happy with. But as someone else said, they are hit and miss. My silicone spider hose from them is kinked and on the verge of tearing, my street trans mount cracked after like half a year with no launches, the wheel studs I had from them were a waste of money. But here are some pictures of my wheel studs from 034 with no allen revision, I recommend ECS, it's pricey but well worth it in my opinion. They seem to be quality.

[AudiSportB5S4]

I went with Apex/race-studs.com and I am very happy with them. They are no questions asked high quality and do what we want them to do :)

[mauromj]

Sounds like 034 is distributing these cheap studs that are most likely made in china. I bought a cheap set of ebay for like $15, and they look identical to these, and have had the same problems.

[Timtheguru]

Whoa, grade 8.8.. tsk tsk. Those will snap no problem.

[86franklin]

Whoa, grade 8.8.. tsk tsk. Those will snap no problem.

Metric 8.8 is similar to grade 5 bolts. So no they won't snap.

[landfill]

034 makes great products for our cars
except these wheel studs which I think
are outsourced. There has been multiple threads. Use these:
http://www.track-studs.com/ProductInfo/stud_landing.cfm

Nothing but good feedback on the interwebz. I have bought a couple sets
as well.

[JVD]

034 makes great products for our cars
except these wheel studs which I think
are outsourced. There has been multiple threads. Use these:
http://www.track-studs.com/ProductInfo/stud_landing.cfm

Nothing but good feedback on the interwebz. I have bought a couple sets
as well.

No conversion studs listed......

[Timtheguru]

Metric 8.8 is similar to grade 5 bolts. So no they won't snap.

Ok. I'd rather use 10.9, but that's just me I guess.

[getslideways]

No conversion studs listed......

What do you mean? Anything labeled M14 is the right sized stud, there isn't a special Audi Conversion Stud:

http://www.track-studs.com/productinfo/

For Example Their Pro Series M14.Pro.90

Is an M14x1.5 stud in a 90mm overall length, so practically ANY M14X1.5 stud will screw into your Audi's hub, just dont get an M12 (as the diameter will be too thin and wont thread) and you are good to go.

[JVD]

Just preference. I like the 14 to 12mm conversion studs. I should have made that more clear.

I run 5x114 wheels.

[getslideways]

/\ ah gotcha

[erykv1]

If you do the m12 conversion, the studs will be resting on one side of the lug holes on a 5x114 wheel right? wont the lugs still have issues being concentric with the wheel?

[JVD]

If you do the m12 conversion, the studs will be resting on one side of the lug holes on a 5x114 wheel right? wont the lugs still have issues being concentric with the wheel?

Most 5x114 wheels will have lug holes for 12mm studs so they need to be enlarged. And yes, a normal lugnut will be slightly (~1mm) inward in the seat. They make wobble nuts as well.

[86franklin]

Ok. I'd rather use 10.9, but that's just me I guess.

Not saying you shouldn't. Just that 8.8 or grade 5 will stretch or bend, where 10.9 and grade 8 snap once it reaches it yield.

Sent from my Nexus 6

[Timtheguru]

Not saying you shouldn't. Just that 8.8 or grade 5 will stretch or bend, where 10.9 and grade 8 snap once it reaches it yield.

Sent from my Nexus 6

Not totally true for what you say about 10.9. Rad wheel bolts do not snap and are 10.9. Look at all of the control arm bolts, they are all 10.9+. I wouldn't risk anything less than 10.9 for holding your car up, especially on suspension and wheels. All of the random potholes, hard corners, etc.. all could lead to catastrophic failure with an 8.8..

[vavJETTAw36]

Not totally true for what you say about 10.9. Rad wheel bolts do not snap and are 10.9. Look at all of the control arm bolts, they are all 10.9+. I wouldn't risk anything less than 10.9 for holding your car up, especially on suspension and wheels. All of the random potholes, hard corners, etc.. all could lead to catastrophic failure with an 8.8..

This is really about preference. Surely there are places where you would absolutely want to use 10.9 but there is such thing as overuse. At some point you absolutely want to create a weak link in the integrity of that portion of the car as to ensure damage is not transferred to different parts of the car. Crumple zones are a perfect example of this. Auto engineers could simply create a rigid solid box for us to drive around in but they do not. They design it such that it will fail in certain parts of the car to absorb impact. The same things should be considered while using high grade hardware.

I think the point in this case is moot. A couple of grade 10 bolts holding your wheels on is not going to make much of a difference over grade 8. Your aluminum wheels are always going to bend before the bolts snap/bend (depending on grade). If your running strong wheels you're more likely to bend a control arm/tie rod/axle/hub than snapping your wheel bolts off. Just sayin

[julex]

Snap a lug bolt, that would be a first. Mainly because that would necessitate some purpose set up that would render stock hub-centric set up in-operational. I think that can be achieved with some thin spacers that don't hubcentric lip.

In our cars, the hub lip to wheel hub hole is what is a weight bearing portion of wheel arrangement. Bolts are only there to keep stuff sandwiched and take on forces that are trying to pull the sandwich apart, like when you're turning hard and wheel is being pushed sideways.

Grade 8.8 steel has 640N per mm2 of yield strength, or 143 lbf, or ~16,000 lbf is you consider that effective area is about Pi * 6mm^2... You could probably hang the whole car up on that one bolt and it would not shear... considering just the bolt shear resistance.

[JVD]

Snap a lug bolt, that would be a first. Mainly because that would necessitate some purpose set up that would render stock hub-centric set up in-operational. I think that can be achieved with some thin spacers that don't hubcentric lip.

In our cars, the hub lip to wheel hub hole is what is a weight bearing portion of wheel arrangement. Bolts are only there to keep stuff sandwiched and take on forces that are trying to pull the sandwich apart, like when you're turning hard and wheel is being pushed sideways.

Grade 8.8 steel has 640N per mm2 of yield strength, or 143 lbf, or ~16,000 lbf is you consider that effective area is about Pi * 6mm^2... You could probably hang the whole car up on that one bolt and it would not shear... considering just the bolt shear resistance.

I was wondering about this the other day.

Why are there plastic hub centric rings available?Just for centering before tightening? Should aluminum be used to put all of the force on the hub or are the strength of the studs adequate?

[Zba]

Snap a lug bolt, that would be a first. Mainly because that would necessitate some purpose set up that would render stock hub-centric set up in-operational. I think that can be achieved with some thin spacers that don't hubcentric lip.

In our cars, the hub lip to wheel hub hole is what is a weight bearing portion of wheel arrangement. Bolts are only there to keep stuff sandwiched and take on forces that are trying to pull the sandwich apart, like when you're turning hard and wheel is being pushed sideways.

Grade 8.8 steel has 640N per mm2 of yield strength, or 143 lbf, or ~16,000 lbf is you consider that effective area is about Pi * 6mm^2... You could probably hang the whole car up on that one bolt and it would not shear... considering just the bolt shear resistance.

Can't argue with that!

[Bordom]

I was wondering about this the other day.

Why are there plastic hub centric rings available?Just for centering before tightening? Should aluminum be used to put all of the force on the hub or are the strength of the studs adequate?

It's just to make sure everything is center

Everything graciously mispelled by Android

[GT3_BBK]

Ive never had any issues with my 034 stud kit. I did purchase it about 6 years ago though

[Me_in_NY]

I just bought a set from track studs and same rounded hex head crap as OP has with his 034 set.

[Timtheguru]

Personally, longer bolts would be just fine. Not having studs makes working under the car easier.. for me anyway.

[Zba]

Personally, longer bolts would be just fine. Not having studs makes working under the car easier.. for me anyway.

What on earth do studs have to do with working under a car?

Benefits of studs include:
Rotor and hub stay in the same orientation
Wheels can hang without being fastened
Installing wheels without having find the holes in the hub/rotor

Studs for life

[getslideways]

Personally, longer bolts would be just fine. Not having studs makes working under the car easier.. for me anyway.

Curious to hear how these two things would relate?

[Hulksmash]

Personally, longer bolts would be just fine. Not having studs makes working under the car easier.. for me anyway.

Prove it

Studs for life x2