DIY: $25 hood style solid rear diff mount refresh

[Snowboardguy989]

Yo mother******s, seems like your rear diff isn't as stiff as it used to be? Well its time for some viagra for that limp diff. Can't afford the brand name $200+ stuff. I am here to offer you a process so you can DIY the OEM into a solid style mount for about 25 doll hairs. This is going to be some hood RACECAR™ spec shit. Don't ask me the durometer because I don't give a fuck it just stops that rear diff from jumping up and down like your mom last night.

Also your opinion is like an asshole... No you are an asshole, wait no... I don't give a fuck about your opinion because this is America and we can all do whatever the fuck we want.



tools:

Ratchet (not your gf the actual tool)
-8mm hex (this girthy mother******)
-16mm box wrench or 5/8ths box wrench (I said it was hood, we are going to use some SAE shit on your nazi sled)
-16mm or 5/8ths socket (It is smaller then your mom's vag.)
-Blue thread lock (...for safety, actually I don't give a fuck if you use thread lock or not)
-Caulk gun (too easy)
-Whatever the fuck else you need to get your exhaust out of the way so you can get that limp diff out
-Ramps, jack stands, wood (whatever the fuck gets your POS in the air) Serious Sidenote- don't go under your goddamn car when it's on a lifting device it is not a holding device. It will make you flatter then your GF's chest.
-Also random shit because every other DIY needs some fucking tool they don't list here so I am covering my ass.



Materials:

3M Window motherfucking weld- this is liquid polyurethane also it comes in your mom's favorite color... black, just like her dildo. It is nasty as fuck it has all sorts of warning that are only applicable in California. So if you are in California be careful.

Here is an motherfucking amazon smile link so you can feel good about yourself. You can contribute to your favorite charity (Sorry, Candy from the strip club isn't an option) and buy car parts.

http://smile.amazon.com/3M-08609-Win...dp/B000FW61EW/

Serious Sidenote- Wear nitrile gloves and don't get this shit on your hands! It'll be on them for fucking days, and not like the cute oh look you work on your car and have oil on your fingers look. No, it is black plague that is on your hands until the skin falls off.


Process:

Window Weld takes some time to dry so your diff mount will have to be out of the car for like 2 to 3 days. NO dumb fuck don't drive it like this. You could get a junker diff mount but that will bring the project cost over what I promised you, you cheap fuck.

1)Get your Nazi sled up on some sort of supports.



2)Get your exhaust out of the way. You can just drop it down.

3)The diff mount is on the drivers side numb nuts.



4)Unscrew the 3 8mm bolts out of the bottom of the diff. (spoiler alert- the diff is lose now and will fall towards your face)

5)Take out the 16mm bolt running through the rubber mount.

6)Great success!


7) Support your diff because it won't have it's butt buddy mount for a while.


8) Clean it ya filthy animal.



9)Let it dry up like your grandma's clam.

10)Now time for the fun stuff. Pop the tab of the window weld throw it in the caulk gun. Lay down a small bead deep down inside the mount. (Yes, both sides are okay, the goop is thick enough for DP.)



10)Let it dry for an hour. repeat until full. (Something something your mom's holes) Now you have a choice you can be a fancy mother ****** and try to sculpt it so it look is like some OEM+ shit or you can not give a fuck.





11) Let it dry for a few days and throw that bitch back in there and enjoy your stiff diff.


Imgur album because the pics are large as fuck http://imgur.com/a/CGVV2

Fuck your couch,
Snowboardguy989




Mods: move this to DIY or tech or whatever the fuck we call it if you feel the need

edit: spelling crap
edit 2: unfixed it... or did I fuck you I don't need a reason

[Schweini]

Hands down, the best opening pitch I have ever read, anywhere

[B7girl]

If I had to sum up Audizine in one post it would be this. Murica mother ******

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[Okedokey]

I understand this is different on the A4 B7 FWD correct? What is the upgrade part for a FWD car?

[B7girl]

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[Snowboardguy989]

I understand this is different on the A4 B7 FWD correct? What is the upgrade part for a FWD car?

Hate to break it to you but you don't have a rear diff to make stiff.

This can be loosely used as a guide to fill in any gaps in rubber isolation bushings that were meant for comfort from the factory in the Hood RACECAR™ spec style.

[Okedokey]

Lol fail,,, sorry

[2pointOh]

Best diy ever. The grandma's clam had me rolling. How's it feel? The diff, not my grandma's clam

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[Snowboardguy989]

Best diy ever. The grandma's clam had me rolling. How's it feel? The diff, not my grandma's clam

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Thank you


It is definately much stiffer then the OEM and performes at probably 90% well as a name brand mount. I have 034 density line motor and trans mount, it felt like I was beating the rear diff like Kunta Kinte. Looked at the prices of the proper mounts and asked my lemons buddies about window weld and a project was born. I have about 500 miles on it and am very satisfied it has firmed up the rear end and shifts.

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[tankdeer]

Best. Thread. Ever.

[demonmk2]

Full of funny, thank you

[Copen-cisco]

[08 classic]

I did this to my friends 4000s quattro a while back, he loves it no issues. One tip that you can tape close one side and shoot the window weld from the other side.

[Snowboardguy989]

Update... Rear diff still going strong like your mom.

[b7_Andy]

Lol, I remember reading this last year High quality stuff here ladies and gentlemen!


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[konarider94]

To add some technical information the durometer of this product is 55-60 shore A. For reference the street density line products that 034 sells is advertised at 50 and the track at 80 which are both rubber. Most polyurethane bushings you'll find are going to be in the 75-90 range.

This seems like a pretty good idea.

for additional details and cure times
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1...hane-08609.pdf

[vvenom800tt]

Im good with my 95A powerflex bushings for less than $100

[b7_Andy]

Im good with my 95A powerflex bushings for less than $100

You get the powerflex black?

[vvenom800tt]

Yes

[b7_Andy]

Yes

I got the purple one, should have got the black. Although when I add the carrier inserts it should help make up for it.

[Spike00513]

I did this before with leftover TigerSeal, no idea what durometer.
Except I didn't apply it in steps. All at once. And let sit for a while to dry. Hopefully the inside cured.


But how do you tell the difference?
- Sealant
- Apikol Red
- Apikol Blue
- Spulen Black
- PowerFlex Purple
- PowerFlex Black
- ECS

Maybe I should do one thing at a time, to establish a before/after baseline and notice differences.
The drivetrain mounts are worn, so I may put in Stern snub, B5 S4 febi mounts, and OEM gearbox mount (which has voids, should it be filled too?)
Because as of now (stock, leaking, etc.) the drivetrain seems to flop all over the place, dare I say making it hard to work the clutch because it tries to run away and bounces around? (rev up might twist the engine one way, then when letting off the gas to clutch/shift it comes back the other way and you have to time/predict it) plus a a little jolt when getting on/off gas, not sure if that means mount problems or wear/play/slack in the diff requiring me to source a low-mi replacement (I think one person had this recently but it had a LOT of miles, like 200-300k+)

and then AFTER I could try rear diff?
I have PowerFlex purple to swap into the carrier since it's cheap.

What am I supposed to do? Order the above 43 mounts and spend the year swapping them to compare?
I guess at minimum this is considered better than stock though, since it was probably designed with comfort in mind, to isolate/separate the driver from the car.
Or could some play be a good thing, for taking off in first, and shifting? Even if I'm aggressive, it's still smooth, and feels like the drivetrain twists when the clutch catches, meaning my foot has to be less precise? Or if I try to shift over a crack in the road, it throws my foot off, but maybe the blame for that is on harsh suspension not keeping the boat level over road imperfections vs. jarring/upsetting it, and sliding around in an un-bolstered seat (not S4 Recaro or Euro Sport)

Even PowerFlex purple seems better because it's solid in your hand. Versus if you take the stock part and slide a prybar through it, you can twist it by hand.
Which reduces and becomes more difficult after you fill the voids. Not exactly a quantifiable graph measurement...

___
also what about the carrier?
first 034 released metal inserts, now ECS has plastic (twice cheaper), and there's not enough room to get a silicone tube up there unless you drop the subframe, maybe even replacing the bushing entirely.




TL;DR: ima throw random parts at it and see what happens hopefully the car feel good and dont get all fucked up

[vvenom800tt]

I have the powerflex black in the rear diff and the ecs poly carrier inserts

[b7_Andy]

I have the powerflex black in the rear diff and the ecs poly carrier inserts

Do you like the ECS ones? I was thinking of getting those.

[vvenom800tt]

Its pretty good, really tight to get in there, i had my friend help with a prybar while i inserted the bolts.

Seems a little tighter back there

[drmonkey]

I have the powerflex black in the rear diff and the ecs poly carrier inserts

Its pretty good, really tight to get in there, i had my friend help with a prybar while i inserted the bolts.

Seems a little tighter back there

I have the same setup and yeah, the ECS ones were pretty tough to install by myself. The "lube" they sent actually made things worse (too sticky) and I ended up using lithium grease.

[vvenom800tt]

I used copper anti seize, its what powerflex recommend for they poly mounts so i used it on the ECS poly inserts