Treadstone TR8 Install and Review

[zcspec]

First off, I am well aware that there is an intercooler thread with a plethora of information on different ICs. I am created this thread SPECIFICALLY for the Treadstone family of intercoolers since there isn’t one dedicated to it.
Secondly, I’d like to thank members here who thought outside the box and became pioneers for their use of the TR series ICs. You guys helped me make a great decision and I can’t be happier.

Product and Impression: After several PMs with different members here, I decided to purchase the TR8 IC. The info I found listed it at about 10L of air; the OEM is 6L. Sorry I don’t have photos, but it’s nearly 2x the size and 3-4x the weight of the OEM unit. Plus, no more plastic end tanks: it’s definitely a quality piece of engineering.

Required components: Your choice of Treadstone IC (I choose the TR8), a pair of 45* 2.5” to 2.25” reducer silicone hoses, pair of 2.5” & 2.25” t-clamps (The 2.25” is optional as I ended up using the stock clamps because they fit better on the stock IC hoses), and a pair of 2.25” connector pipes. You will also need to purchase washers, lock washers, two M8 sized bolts and L-brackets or a sturdy metal strip to secure the IC to the crash bar.


Installation: You will need to remove the bumper, belly pan, disconnect the fog lights and disconnect the garage door remote sensor. The complete install took me about 6 hours to complete. [This comprised of removing the bumper twice. During an initial trial run, I blew off the discharge side of my IC pipe from not clamping it down tight enough.]

***Side note for allroad owners. The allroad’s crashbar is indented/rolled on both sides instead of being completely flush across the entire bar like on the A4. This IS NOT vehicle accident related.***


Connection goes as following: stock hose to 2.25” connection pipe ->2.25”-2.5” reducer hose ->2.5” IC end tanks. Once all the hoses were in place, the entire IC actually rested on the OEM end tank brackets. From there, I bolted a flexible metal bracket from the IC up and over to the front of my crashbar. From there, screw the metal bracket to the crashbar for a secure mounting point. Double check your entire IC install, hoses, clamps, etc, reassemble everything, then go for a trial run.

Passenger's side


Driver's Side


Intercooler Impression: From what I know and read, an IC does not “make” power per say, but actually helps your motor run/burn more efficiently because the air charge is cooler, thus richer in O2. This equates to more power by the motor. On APR’s stage 1-91 octane program, the Treadstone IC definitely does a good job. I FELT more power as the motor pulled very smoothly all the way to redline. The amount of new found power, I cannot determine, but I can tell you, the IC works! Once I put ethanol e85 in, it’s a completely different animal. Prior to the IC upgrade, the AR pulled phenomenal. After the TR8 install…it’s completely intoxicating now. It feels as though the IC helped to further enhance the e85 power.

Final thoughts: My complete out of pocket cost was about $350-$375. Time wise, 6hrs because I had no experience pulling the bumper off and had to figure out how to mount the IC. If I were to repeat, no more than 4hrs max. Was the financial investment worth the cost of admission, without a doubt, YES!!! On pump gas, you CAN tell a difference. On e85 ethanol, BIGGER difference. I HIGHLY recommend this modification.

[bakedziti]

Nice write up

[Dub_prime]

Nice write up, with the bracket mounted that way do you have any forward or backward movement on the bottom of the intercooler?

[AllroadCorbin]

3x-4x the weight? Hmm i dont like the sound of that haha. Glad it works great though!

[hyperunion]

Seems to be all b8.5s and not just allroads that have that new twisted crash bar... Mine is the same way... It does look accident related, guess maybe an improved crash bar design then on b8s

[zcspec]

There is very little play because the IC is also held in place by the hoses.

Ah, so all B8.5s? When I pulled the top cover off, my first thought was, "SMF, the dealership sold me a vehicle with front end damage." After confirming with a couple other ARs, my fears were put to rest.

[Project Quattro]

There is very little play because the IC is also held in place by the hoses.

Ah, so all B8.5s? When I pulled the top cover off, my first thought was, "SMF, the dealership sold me a vehicle with front end damage." After confirming with a couple other ARs, my fears were put to rest.

Mine is the same. I'm guessing that the curves they stamp in it add some rigidity over a straight piece of aluminum.

[blbroo]

3x-4x the weight? Hmm i dont like the sound of that haha. Glad it works great though!

The weight is a good thing.

It's like comparing this:




To this:

[AllroadCorbin]

^ eh I guess so. In New England that usually isn't a problem haha


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[Dub_prime]

There is very little play because the IC is also held in place by the hoses.

I assumed as much but wanted to ask.

[zcspec]

I wanted to provide an UPDATE to the Treadstone TR8 thread I started back in Feb of this year. Last weekend, after a hard day of spirited driving @ Maryhill Loops Rd, I found out that the brackets used to secure my TR8 to the bumper ended up snapping off. The brackets I used ended up fatiguing at the spot where I drilled through them and secured them to the bumper. Sorry, but I ended up not taking a photo. Today, I replaced both brackets with the same ones but DOUBLED up on them to give better support.

Below are some updated photos.

Having the Quick Jack has made my life much easier!


There are several DIY for bumper removal so just Google it.


Doubled up on these brackets.


They are flexible enough to bend into position.



Finished the job in about 3hrs.


Quick tip, when you remove the bumper, this component will fall out of place. This is what it looks like and how it should fit when re-installing the bumper.



I'll update this intercooler once more in October when the new, larger TR11 arrives.

[Dub_prime]

You will still get some fatigue from the brackets but they will last much longer when you do the install on the TR11 look into the way I mounted mine, should be virtually no fatigue. But it's a bit more difficult to pull off.

[jjvwg]

length of the 45* silicon fittings would be helpful for someone looking to do this, looks like they are about 4" sides from the bend?

[Dub_prime]

Between 3-4" depending on the manufacturer. Length really doesn't matter so much.

[zcspec]

True, the length of the 45* bends really doesn't matter because you can always cut them down a bit. Thanks for the info Prime...your way is very secure but the main difference between our crashbars, mine is pre-crumpbled and yours isn't. I'm limited because of this fact.

[Dub_prime]

True, the length of the 45* bends really doesn't matter because you can always cut them down a bit. Thanks for the info Prime...your way is very secure but the main difference between our crashbars, mine is pre-crumpbled and yours isn't. I'm limited because of this fact.

The angle is flexible enough it may still work, but prob not worth the time to try.

[jjvwg]

Good to know, just wasn't sure if you guys needed to order ones that were a little longer than the average available sizes to make the connection. I'll probably be going this route next summer once I'm out of warranty. I run a treadstone on my b6 and it works great!

Would be nice to see some logs comparing IAT's between the two. I did a little build thread on my TR18T setup and did some nice comparisons showing the improved results. They definitely make great intercoolers for an awesome price.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...view-with-logs!

[SleeperCar]

Back from the dead!!!!!!!!

i am looking to swap into the Tr8. im just trying to understand the best mounting method and make sure i get the right parts:

can someone confirm where you bought the following parts aside from the Tr8, i figured home depot/lowes/advance/amazon would be a good place to start but maybe there is a better spot. (any parts im missing?)
2--- 45* 2.5” to 2.25” reducer silicone hoses,
2---2.5” & 2.25” t-clamps
2--- 2.25” connector pipes
washers,
lock washers,
two M8 bolts
L-brackets

anything else? how many washers/lock washers?


also, can anyone confirm after installed for a while which mounting method is best?

thanks!!!

[Brandon K.]

Back from the dead!!!!!!!!

i am looking to swap into the Tr8. im just trying to understand the best mounting method and make sure i get the right parts:

can someone confirm where you bought the following parts aside from the Tr8, i figured home depot/lowes/advance/amazon would be a good place to start but maybe there is a better spot. (any parts im missing?)
2--- 45* 2.5” to 2.25” reducer silicone hoses,
2---2.5” & 2.25” t-clamps
2--- 2.25” connector pipes
washers,
lock washers,
two M8 bolts
L-brackets

anything else? how many washers/lock washers?


also, can anyone confirm after installed for a while which mounting method is best?

thanks!!!

+1


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[A4x]

Back from the dead!!!!!!!!

i am looking to swap into the Tr8. im just trying to understand the best mounting method and make sure i get the right parts:

can someone confirm where you bought the following parts aside from the Tr8, i figured home depot/lowes/advance/amazon would be a good place to start but maybe there is a better spot. (any parts im missing?)
2--- 45* 2.5” to 2.25” reducer silicone hoses,
2---2.5” & 2.25” t-clamps
2--- 2.25” connector pipes
washers,
lock washers,
two M8 bolts
L-brackets

anything else? how many washers/lock washers?


also, can anyone confirm after installed for a while which mounting method is best?

thanks!!!

Lettuce gives a very good review and parts list for the silicon tubes here:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11043526




This user also describes exactly which parts are needed and gives links to eBay:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post12108037


Disclaimer: I have not yet installed my TR8. Looking forward to it when the weather gets nicer...

[Hybrid81]

+1


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+2

[SleeperCar]

Lettuce gives a very good review and parts list for the silicon tubes here:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11043526




This user also describes exactly which parts are needed and gives links to eBay:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post12108037


Disclaimer: I have not yet installed my TR8. Looking forward to it when the weather gets nicer...

Thanks! I saw lettuce info too but my crash bar is different then the B8 (I have a curved crash bar in the B8.5)

[Marko S]

I followed lettuces thread and had some help from dubprime (he mounted his differently check it out). Blbro also has some links for the silicone elbows, t bolt clamps etc in his rebroo thread. I have a b8 but my crash bar was slightly curved iirc. The ic has threaded holes on the side where you bolt the L's.

I would recommend getting the 2 ply elbows, i bought the 3 ply and getting them around the coupler was a pia. Getting the t bolt clamp on was even harder. But at the end of the day it looks great.

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[SleeperCar]

I followed lettuces thread and had some help from dubprime (he mounted his differently check it out). Blbro also has some links for the silicone elbows, t bolt clamps etc in his rebroo thread. I have a b8 but my crash bar was slightly curved iirc. The ic has threaded holes on the side where you bolt the L's.

I would recommend getting the 2 ply elbows, i bought the 3 ply and getting them around the coupler was a pia. Getting the t bolt clamp on was even harder. But at the end of the day it looks great.

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Thanks for the info and heads up... I'm probably going with the 3ply just because it's got better resistance to buckling and heat deformation

[Marko S]

Thanks for the info and heads up... I'm probably going with the 3ply just because it's got better resistance to buckling and heat deformation

Fair enough. Just a heads up i had to cut the bolt and the hole for the bolt on the t blot clamp with a dremel to make ot fit. (Used the same size t bolts as the other guys).



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[SleeperCar]

Fair enough. Just a heads up i had to cut the bolt and the hole for the bolt on the t blot clamp with a dremel to make ot fit. (Used the same size t bolts as the other guys).



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im confused of what you mean exactly....do you have a pic for reference possibly?

[Marko S]

im confused of what you mean exactly....do you have a pic for reference possibly?

Yeah that was not the best explanation. The elbow+coupler was too wide for the t-bolt clamp. I couldnt get the bolt to go through the holes so that I can tighten it and basically i had to trim the hole to give enough clearance for the bolt to fit through it.

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[SleeperCar]

I want the TR11 since its got the baffles to increase airflow and decrease heatsoak......why not when they are the same price...why did others go the TR8 route (assuming they were both out when you purchased)

[Dub_prime]

I want the TR11 since its got the baffles to increase airflow and decrease heatsoak......why not when they are the same price...why did others go the TR8 route (assuming they were both out when you purchased)

For me it was due to the size and possible issues with install, people have installed the TR11 with no issues of course. Both are more than enough for our hp levels.

[q_dubz]

where are the before and after logs?

[SleeperCar]

For me it was due to the size and possible issues with install, people have installed the TR11 with no issues of course. Both are more than enough for our hp levels.

I just like the extra baffles because that seems to be a common complaint with the tr8.... but I get where your coming from. I wonder how much heavier the tr11 is over the tr8.... not because of weight reduction overall but more for the health of mounting points.

[Dub_prime]

I just like the extra baffles because that seems to be a common complaint with the tr8.... but I get where your coming from. I wonder how much heavier the tr11 is over the tr8.... not because of weight reduction overall but more for the health of mounting points.

The way mine is mounted the weight wouldn't be an issue. I was more concerned with how well it would fit between the core and also what kind of clearance it would have to the belly pan. As it is the TR8 is sitting on the pan so if you take a hard hit on a parking stop or maybe something big in the road the intercoolers going to be destroyed, more margin of error with the TR8 than the 11. I would probably have gone with the TR8C or TR8L if I did it again.

[SleeperCar]

I ordered everything except the intercooler lol.... (backwards I know)
I'm trying to figure out which one to buy......

[SleeperCar]

The way mine is mounted the weight wouldn't be an issue. I was more concerned with how well it would fit between the core and also what kind of clearance it would have to the belly pan. As it is the TR8 is sitting on the pan so if you take a hard hit on a parking stop or maybe something big in the road the intercoolers going to be destroyed, more margin of error with the TR8 than the 11. I would probably have gone with the TR8C or TR8L if I did it again.

Do you mind posting any pics of how yours is mounted?

[Dub_prime]

You will still get some fatigue from the brackets but they will last much longer when you do the install on the TR11 look into the way I mounted mine, should be virtually no fatigue. But it's a bit more difficult to pull off.

Here

[SleeperCar]

Here

Oh my bad, I feel like I've seen those in another thread, thanks!

[Marko S]

As dub prime said, the reason most have gone with the 8 is because it is made for more horsepower than our cars will push. The bigger one isnt necesaary.

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[IbisB8.5]

If the TR11 isn't necessary because it's bigger then why goes APR and all the other aftermarket manufacturers only produce large intercoolers for our cars?

[A4 Centaur]

^ I think its volume related? The stock B8 FMIC is around 6 Ltrs. The TDI FMIC is around 8 Ltrs.

I think my APR FMIC was bigger both internally and externally. Not sure of the volume but at least 10 Ltrs. I would imagine.

The point they found (AWE/APR) was the size or volume was important for removing the heat, thus restoring power lost? IDK.

[Brandon K.]

An intercooler is just a heat exchanger. The more efficient the system the better. All other things being equal (design, location...) the larger you make it the better it can do its job. But keep in mind that as it grows in size, you will get diminishing returns on efficiency improvements. Also the lager volume will make the turbo slower to reach the desired pressure. In an ideal world, you would want a 100% efficient cooler with a nonexistent volume.

Now for the real answer:
Volume is not to any benefit. It is efficiency that you want coupled with minimal resistance to the air being forced through it (pressure drop at maximum expected volume & pressure).

APR have a lot of R&D money at their disposal for each product they make. With that budget, they can make a cooler that fits perfectly and is properly designed to meet their efficiency target for a specific car, motor, intake pressure, CFM...

I have no doubt that APR's cooler for the B8 was sized for their stage 3 kit that they have now decided not to release. This should make it designed to exceed any requirements for any existing turbo kit for our cars.

On the other hand, the T8 is a cooler that is designed to meet a much wider set of parameters. It needs to be physically small enough to fit in the nose of a wide verity of cars, easy to mount and be reasonably efficient for up to approximately 500 hp on higher pressure applications (turbo 4 with big hp).

If you are asking what cooler will work better, for example of a K04 B8, both are more than adequate. I have little doubt that if you used one then the other on that application you would notice little to no difference between the two.

Looking at the designs, I would SUSPECT that the APR unit would be a little better at removing heat from the air charge and that the TR8 would have a slightly smaller pressure drop from the incoming air side to the existing air side of the cooler.

The TR11 probably holds no additional benefit for our cars. It will be harder to mount and the additional surface area will be partially shrouded from the bumper support. Both the TR8 and TR11 are overkill unless you are building something relatively unique (500+ hp B8 turbo 4). If you are doing that, go for the TR11 over the TR8. If you want the TR11 even for an existing kit, go for it. It is not going to cause any problems. The additional volume will have a slight (I don't know how much) softening of the onset and build of the turbo pressure.




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