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Thread: ...New Turbo...

  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    ...New Turbo...

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    My ECS BorgWarner K04 failed after 15k miles and 2 years of use. It failed on the coldest day of the year. I was running the stock intercooler and just drove the car here and there as I have a work truck.
    For the last year my thermostat was stuck open, I replaced it the other day since I have it in the garage. Now I'm getting up to temp pretty easily and instant heat again.

    I found mayonnaise in my hockey puck and when I stick my fingers into the Y pipe from the hockey puck It's covered in water. I've never seen water in my oil or oil in my water. It's looking to me like it's condensation building up from the thermostat being stuck open and the crank case not heating up to boil off the condensed vapor? Everywhere I look people say this is NORMAL for this motor. Could this have caused my turbo failure? I am going to upgrade to the Provent200 in hopes of helping this issue.

    I've never seen any sign of coke or sludge in my motor, I've had the oil pan off once for inspection, I've had the valve cover off multiple times and even when I did the timing I had the front crank seal housing off and it looked clean.

    I'm going to replace the vacuum check valves so if any one knows how many and what size/parter numbers I need that would be super.

    I'm looking at this kit, http://www.ebay.com/itm/380382452035...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    It seems like a decently priced little kit for my 2003... Most of my mods are in my signature line. Main things are APR stage II, injectors, etc. I don't want to waste another 1200 on a turbo... Any good places to get a new BWK04? Or should I go with the new frankie turbo?
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    All that "mayonnaise" comes from running with a stuck thermostat. Lots of water vapor remaining in the block from not getting up to proper operating temperature. Now that you replaced your thermostat the situation should get better. And no it's not "normal" if the engine and block breathers are properly maintained.

    I doubt it caused the turbo failure unless it sludged up the turbo oil feed line. You are definately going to want to replace that line with whatever turbo you choose.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    All that "mayonnaise" comes from running with a stuck thermostat. Lots of water vapor remaining in the block from not getting up to proper operating temperature. Now that you replaced your thermostat the situation should get better. And no it's not "normal" if the engine and block breathers are properly maintained.

    I doubt it caused the turbo failure unless it sludged up the turbo oil feed line. You are definately going to want to replace that line with whatever turbo you choose.
    I got a new supply line on ebay for 40 bucks shipped.http://m.ebay.com/itm/261748949882

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Decent price! Hell, I might buy one just to have as a spare at that price.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  5. #5
    Senior Member Three Rings B6ayfour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    I have a cxracing fmic kit on my car, fitment was ok but a lot of bumper trimming was required. Have had it on for probably a month now and no complaints at all, it definitely feels a lot different on the but dyno.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Old guy seems to have success with the F21L so far? I can't decide between K04 and F21L... Some one convince me.
    I COULD give the K04 another chance...or...

    For F21L I would need:
    Intercooler (already getting)
    bigger 440 injectors?
    programming
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Instead of a complete replacement K-04, buy a reman genuine BW CHRA* and reuse your turbine and compressor housings. This is a lot less expensive than a complete new K-04.

    *Center Housing Rotating Assembly
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings Audi body's Avatar
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    Usually $450 to $550 for the chra. Make sure the part # is correct.

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings oakvilleb7_2.0t's Avatar
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    what about the frankenturbo vs bwk04 I was looking at either one of those whats the pros and cons to that?
    2007 Audi A4 2.0t stage 2
    2018 Audi S4 technik /loaded

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings GOODBYNAAIR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    Old guy seems to have success with the F21L so far? I can't decide between K04 and F21L... Some one convince me.
    I COULD give the K04 another chance...or...

    For F21L I would need:
    Intercooler (already getting)
    bigger 440 injectors?
    programming
    If you dont get a remaned chra I say F21 all day! Search around there is tones on info on that turbo + the F4L first gen of it in the B6 and B5 forums. lots of people have put miles on then and made good power numbers for what they are a "Hybrid turbo"

    New injectors will base off new tuning most run the ev14 550cc with the F21.
    SOLD the GOINHAM A4 ---> GT2860 Project

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by diagnosticator View Post
    Instead of a complete replacement K-04, buy a reman genuine BW CHRA* and reuse your turbine and compressor housings. This is a lot less expensive than a complete new K-04.

    *Center Housing Rotating Assembly
    Where do I find a remand?
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Oil Pressure: PSI:
    Idle 19
    2K RPM 45
    3K RPM 65
    6K RPM 90
    Harbor freight Compression tester: Motor Hot.
    1. 120
    2. 100
    3. 105
    4. 135
    Last edited by jacobsen; 02-04-2016 at 05:05 PM.
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    You sure that compression is right? Seems VERY low. My b6 was around 180 on each cylinder last year when I sold it at 102k miles.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
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    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    It does seem a bit low. did you remove all the plugs before testing? Did you open the throttle plate? That can make a difference. mine was also right around 180 on all cylinders just before I installed the F21L at 200K miles.

    I poked around a little looking for BW rebuild kits and CHRA's. I came across this site: Clicky click® Worth a phone call.

    And if you want a little more bolt on power, so far I have no complaints with the F21L mixed flow kit.
    Last edited by old guy; 02-04-2016 at 04:39 PM.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings DiertyEuroSpec's Avatar
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    Ive got a used Ko4 for sale but damn no one seems to want that so I may put that on and get rid of my F21 mixed flow for a price you won't believe. Pm me i think you did but my inbox got full and deleted a couple pages of messages

    Sent from my LGL33L using Tapatalk
    2003 A4 1.8T Quattro | 18" BBS CH | KW V3 | FT F21 Mixed Flow | MOTOZA | RA4 Stage 1 w/SMFW | Milltek | Uni HFC/3'' DP Combo | 3'' TIP w/MAF | 550cc | TR1.8 FMIC | USP F/R | H-Sport F/R Sway | APR Snub | RS4 Motor Mounts | Stern Trans Mount | Skid Plate | Solid Tie Rod Ends | Short Shifter | Euro Shift Knob | VMR Boost Gauge | S4 F/R Brakes | Tyrolsport Stiffening Kit | ECS S.S. Lines | Hawk HPS Pads | 034 PCV

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Blew engine management fuse... Injector wire shorted to the valve cover.
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    Where do I find a remand?
    BW has a distributor listing on their website. There should be a distributor near you. If not, call a local Diesel Fuel Injection/turbocharger repair shop that handles BW, they can order a CHRA for you.

    Go here:http://www.dieselcomponentsinc.com/

    Part number for CHRA Cartridge Assembly: 5304 710 0503



    BEA:Price: $289.00
    Last edited by diagnosticator; 02-04-2016 at 07:45 PM.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Motor Vacuum at brake booster: Inches 27 Hg / Centimeter Hg 65

    Steady when revving, is this the right vacuum?
    Last edited by jacobsen; 02-04-2016 at 11:47 PM.
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by diagnosticator View Post
    BW has a distributor listing on their website. There should be a distributor near you. If not, call a local Diesel Fuel Injection/turbocharger repair shop that handles BW, they can order a CHRA for you.

    Go here:http://www.dieselcomponentsinc.com/

    Part number for CHRA Cartridge Assembly: 5304 710 0503



    BEA:Price: $289.00
    What does BEA stand for? I called Diesel Performance Inc. and they believe they can get the CHRA or Turbo for me. I will here back on Monday.
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    What does BEA stand for? I called Diesel Performance Inc. and they believe they can get the CHRA or Turbo for me. I will here back on Monday.
    Interesting question. I have no idea so I googled it. I came up with this:(BAE instead of BEA) Clicky click®
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings Molotov's Avatar
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    If you do go for a new CHRA, just make note of your comp cover and turbine orientations before disassembly. Clamp plates should not need to be torqued over 15 ft/lbs, if that, on comp cover and turbine housing. You may want to see if they can get you some new hardware (bolts and plates). Comp cover bolts probably have a thread locker on them and turbine bolts are bare.
    - Scott

    Das Build Thread

    Performance parts for sale:
    MagnaFlow Race Muffler - Vibrant 4" Filter - MAF 4" Housing

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    What does BEA stand for? I called Diesel Performance Inc. and they believe they can get the CHRA or Turbo for me. I will here back on Monday.
    "Old Guy" is correct, BAE is what I meant. I regret the typo. The price of the genuine BW CHRA from BAE is the cheapest I could find. I suspect Diesel Performance will be more money.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Diesel performance has the k04 0015 turbo for $725... uploadfromtaptalk1454978536880.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    I hope it doesn't come with that bent turbine blade.........
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    I hope it doesn't come with that bent turbine blade.........
    How could this have happened?... I've always been so careful. Could ice have formed somewhere in the intake path? Could a chunk of mayonnaise broke free from the PCV and struck the compressor blades?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Is yours an '02 or '03?

    I would never have considered ice but reviewing some of your previous comments about running with a stuck thermostat in a Minnesota winter I guess it's possible that you had some frozen condensation in the block breather hose that made its way to the turbo.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Is yours an '02 or '03?

    I would never have considered ice but reviewing some of your previous comments about running with a stuck thermostat in a Minnesota winter I guess it's possible that you had some frozen condensation in the block breather hose that made its way to the turbo.
    That's all I can think of? Its a 2003

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Also I just want to say the exhaust flange bolts were kind of loose. That is they were pretty easy to turn to the right. Maybe Mr Frankenturbo, Dave is correct? Maybe I have a bent compressor blade but also a loose flange... Although I do doubt that because well, it didn't seem that loose. But it's possible and the only way to find out is to bolt everything back up and take it for a test drive with the nuts tighter on the exhaust flange. But I feel like just waiting 3 days for my $725 turbo and going from there.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    I was just trying to visualize where ice would be most likely to form. The '02 has the PRV on the TIP whereas the '03 has the PRV mounted on the back of the valve cover. I'm guessing the '03 would be more susceptible to ice formation since the '02 PRV location is closer to the turbo and would get more residual heat after the engine is turned off.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  30. #30
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    I can't remember what I did to get the old turbo off and the new turbo on. The bottom bolt of the exhaust flange is a total bitch. Any ideas?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    I have a shorty 17mm combination wrench and I remove it from under the hood. I just reach underneath the flange to access the nut.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  32. #32
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    But was able to get it off, I had the back it off to the point where I could loosen it by hand. If I had the role that thing off the way I did the entire length I'd still be doing it. One click with my gear wrench, I warrantied my old set of gear wrenches and the new ones I got have a fatter body around the ratchet part of the ranch. So it didn't fit very well, one click at a time until I got it loose enough to do by hand. I'll have the turbo off in about 10 minutes.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 19 2013
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    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Jun 27 2011
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    I don't know man, I fee like you could bend that fin back into shape and it wouldn't be any worse for wear...
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  35. #35
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Last edited by jacobsen; 02-09-2016 at 12:10 AM.
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  36. #36
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    The top 2 nuts on the turbo exhaust flange were loose. No shaft play in any direction. Turbo oil feed line very clean. Coolant clean. 1 bent compressor blade, no damage to the compressor housing. No damage to exhaust fan.
    The only evidence that anything had gone wrong was the 2 loose nuts and the bent fin. This problem started on the coldest day of the year, upon boosting I would hear a whine. I immediately assumed my compressor wheel was grinding against the compressor housing. I don't see any damage and there is no shaft play, I think the 2 nuts on the back of the exhaust flange were loose enough to cause a whistle, the bottom side nut was not loose. However, I did notice the bent fin... So I decided to take the turbo off and inspect it further. Diesel Performance states they do not have the equipment to balance this small turbo. They suggested I get a new compressor fan and install it without balancing it, said it shouldn't be an issue because it's so small? (I can cancel my K04 order but I will have to pay shipping and handling) hmmm...
    Last edited by jacobsen; 02-10-2016 at 11:13 AM.
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Is the compressor wheel for the K04 a proprietary design? I'm searching for a new wheel as Diesel Components Inc. suggested I could Install a new wheel without balancing it? I found this one on ebay.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Compre...FV81hu&vxp=mtr
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  38. #38
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    Is the compressor wheel for the K04 a proprietary design? I'm searching for a new wheel as Diesel Components Inc. suggested I could Install a new wheel without balancing it? I found this one on ebay.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Compre...FV81hu&vxp=mtr

    No, but it is a specific compressor impeller made for the K-04. The impeller does not fit any other turbo.

    Since one or more compressor impeller blades were bent, then is is a practical certainty the turbine shaft is slightly bent also. It may not be detectable from the rotational concentricity measurement of the turbine shaft, but even a 1/10000" off center shaft concentricity error will cause damaging shaft vibration at high turbo shaft speeds.

    Installing a new compressor impeller without balancing the rotating assembly is only possible if the turbine and turbine shaft are perfectly balanced already, and that condition is very unlikely. Regardless, that is not a generally acceptable proper practice. You risk unacceptable results if only a new compressor impeller is installed with the other rotating parts of unknown balance status.

    Using a genuine BW CHRA gives you warranty coverage if something goes wrong during the stated warranty period. Simply installing a new compressor impeller on an unbalanced turbine/turbine shaft is specifically ineligible for warranty coverage of the compressor impeller or the CHRA.
    Last edited by diagnosticator; 02-11-2016 at 07:33 AM.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Aug 26 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    I don't know man, I fee like you could bend that fin back into shape and it wouldn't be any worse for wear...
    Compressor impeller blades usually won't bend back to the original shape or position because the aluminum alloy is to brittle, it is not ductile enough to bend back, it will break off instead.

    Even if in the unlikely case where the blade is bent mostly back into the original shape and position, the metal on the bend line will be seriously weaker, and the blade will fail by separating on the bend line, sooner than later, usually at high turbo speeds, and in that operating condition will wreck the turbo within fractions of a second.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  40. #40
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    How would a Warranty apply in the future scenario with a replaced CHRA? Is there a way to identify the new CHRA against the old one? ...Yeah there's just no way to bend a fin back. I wish.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

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